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CN103161015B - Weaving method of intelligent temperature-adjustment comfortable knitting fabric - Google Patents

Weaving method of intelligent temperature-adjustment comfortable knitting fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103161015B
CN103161015B CN201310111865.0A CN201310111865A CN103161015B CN 103161015 B CN103161015 B CN 103161015B CN 201310111865 A CN201310111865 A CN 201310111865A CN 103161015 B CN103161015 B CN 103161015B
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viscose
yarn
fine denier
fabric
change
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CN103161015A (en
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张世安
王显其
关燕
张皓
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QINGDAO XUEDA GROUP CO Ltd
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QINGDAO XUEDA GROUP CO Ltd
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Abstract

The invention provides intelligent temperature-adjustment comfortable knitting fabric and a weaving method of the intelligent temperature-adjustment comfortable knitting fabric. The weaving method of the intelligent temperature-adjustment comfortable knitting fabric is characterized in that jacquard weave threading is combined with compound texture of variable ribbing and variable plain stitch for weaving, variable ribbing texture adopts phase change mucilage glue/ fine denier mucilage glue/ fine denier double-resistant acrylon blended yarns for alternate weaving, and variable plain stitch texture adopts fine denier mucilage glue yarns and spandex silks for weaving. Floating point lines of phase change blended yarns in the jacquard weave texture on the front surface of the fabric are symmetrically complementary in a staggered mode, and floating points of phase change blended yarns on the back surface of the fabric is more than fine denier mucilage glue yarn floating points, and is evenly distributed in a variable plain stitch mode along with the fine denier mucilage glue yarn floating points. The intelligent temperature-adjustment comfortable knitting fabric has the effects of being effect-reinforced, temperature-adjustable, fine and smooth, attached to skin, soft, warm and comfortable. Through material selection, a reasonable texture structure and weaving process routes, comfortable and temperature-adjustable functions of balance and effect reinforcement are achieved, the functions of heat storage and heat release of the knitting fabric are enabled to obviously improved at room temperature or in a variation range comfortable for human body temperature.

Description

A kind of weaving method of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile product technical field, relate to the improvement of knit goods and weaving method, is a kind of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods and weaving method thereof specifically.
Background technology
Phase-change energy-storage fibre the earliest American Space General Administration is that Lunar Probe Project is researched and developed; be applied to the aspect such as astronaut's clothes and the accurate laboratory apparatus of protection space at first; the passive type of people's quasi-tradition defends warming mode to turn to heating method of temperature control on one's own initiative by the appearance of this textiles first; having adapted to the situation demand of current energy source crisis, has been most important comfortable textile product in two more than ten years since self waterproofing moisture permeable fabrics.
And in the phase-change energy-storage fibre of different carriers, be especially most suitable for making knitted anderwear fabric next to the skin with phase-change accumulation energy viscose glue.Phase-change accumulation energy viscose can control the micro climate temperature of product, is suitable for the thermal requirement of all day comfort, has the flexibility of cotton or silk, with skin contact comfort, has good thermoregulatory effect; There is high-hygroscopicity and antistatic behaviour; Easy dyeing, has good bright-colored degree, drapability; It is high that dual anti-acrylic fibers of thin dawn have intensity, and gloss is soft, and bulkiness, colour rendering are good, and the advantage such as feel is soft, high resilience, there is ANTIPILLING, insulation, water suction, waterproof, antifouling, antistatics etc. are functional, its fabric has the natural hand of real silk, frivolous softness, the plurality of advantages such as gas permeability draping property is good.
At present, the research both at home and abroad about heating, the functional fabric such as warming and yarn is more, but many research be all employing phase-change accumulation energy viscose carries out blending with other ordinary chemical fiber, cottons etc. respectively.Therefore how to utilize phase-change accumulation energy viscose and other fibers reasonably combined, adopt new reasonable fabric tissue, study and improve ripe weaving process, different fiber is had complementary advantages, reach intelligent thermoregulating and frivolous comfortable combination, what meet appropriate self-temperature-regulating synergy takes demand.This is technical problem urgently to be resolved hurrily at present.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is in order to after solving phase-change accumulation energy viscose and other chemical fibre blended unions, its temperature adjustment function is unconspicuous technical problem often, and a kind of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods and weaving method thereof are provided, by the selection of raw material, collocation and institutional framework reasonable in design and weaving process route, knit goods is significantly improved in room temperature or accumulation of heat in the excursion of body temperature comfortableness, heat release self-temperature-regulating function.Its process route is simple, reasonable.
The object of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions: a kind of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods, it is characterized in that: described knit goods be jacquard weave entry combine change rib-loop with change flat pin complex tissue, change rib stitch adopts phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn alternately braiding, and change plain stitch adopts spun rayon and spandex thread to weave; The floating-point striped of the phase transformation viscose blended yarn in fabric face figured texture weave in dislocation symmetrical complement, fabric backing phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point more than fine denier viscose yarn floating-point, and with fine denier viscose yarn floating-point to change the mode of flat pin in evenly arranging.Synergy temperature adjustment can be reached, fine and smooth subsides skin, soft warm suitable effect.
Improvement to technique scheme: described blended yarn is phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-acrylic fibers 30/30/4014.8tex blended yarn, described phase transformation viscose glue is the phase-change accumulation energy viscose containing weight 21% microcapsules, described spun rayon is 14.8tex fine denier viscose yarn, and described spandex thread is 40D spandex thread.
A kind of weaving method of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods, it is characterized in that: with jacquard weave entry combine change rib-loop with change flat pin complex tissue weave, change rib stitch adopts phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn and fine denier viscose yarn alternately to weave, change plain stitch adopts spun rayon and spandex thread to weave at dials, the floating-point striped of the phase transformation viscose blended yarn in fabric face figured texture weave is in dislocation symmetrical complement, fabric backing phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point is more than fine denier viscose yarn floating-point, and with fine denier viscose yarn floating-point to change the mode of flat pin in evenly arranging.
Improvement to technique scheme: described blended yarn is phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-acrylic fibers 30/30/4014.8tex blended yarn, described phase transformation viscose glue is the phase-change accumulation energy viscose containing weight 21% microcapsules, described spun rayon is 14.8tex fine denier viscose yarn, and described spandex thread is 40D spandex thread.Namely, under the outstanding prerequisite of fine denier viscose, the soft pro-skin sense of dual anti-acrylic fibers of thin dawn, fabric has elastomeric property, gives full play to the accumulation of heat of phase change fiber, heat release effect, plays the balanced synergistic effect of comfortableization temperature adjustment.
Further improvement to technique scheme: adopt the direct needle selection braiding of F-Y gear type two-sided floral disc jacquard knitting machine floral disc steel rice, to entry mode: 1F, 4F road penetrates 14.8tex phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn, and loop length is 230mm/100 pin; 2F, 5F road penetrates 14.8tex fine denier viscose yarn, and loop length is 400mm/100 pin; On 3F, 6F road, pin adds 40D spandex thread, and loop length is 95mm/100 pin, and 3F, 6F road penetrates 14.8tex phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn, and loop length is 220mm/100 pin.
Further improvement to technique scheme: yarn tension 5.0-6.9cN, blank grammes per square metre: 230g/m 2, density: horizontal close 33 stringers/25.4mm, vertical close 31 lines/25.4mm, lower machine fabric width: double width 85cm ± 5cm.
The present invention compared with prior art has the following advantages and good effect: by the selection of raw material and rational institutional framework and weaving process route, adopt phase-change accumulation energy viscose, fine denier viscose, the thin organic collocation blending of dawn dual anti-acrylic fibers, interweave with fine denier viscose yarn, spandex thread again
Make knit goods in room temperature or in the excursion of body temperature comfortableness, accumulation of heat, heat release self-temperature-regulating function significantly improve, and meet the need of market.
1, the present invention by one containing phase-change accumulation energy viscose and the fine denier viscose of 21% weight microcapsules (phase-change material that average grain diameter is 0.7 micron), the carefully organic collocation blending of dawn dual anti-acrylic fibers, the fabric made of interweaving with fine denier viscose, spandex thread again has the good characteristics such as softness, light weight, warming, damping, ANTIPILLING, and self-temperature-regulating successful, remarkable in economical benefits.
2, knitted fabric of the present invention preferred phase-change accumulation energy viscose and fine denier viscose, thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn and there is sucting wet air permeability, the fine denier viscose yarn of good air permeability interweaves, add spandex thread simultaneously and increase fabric elasticity, have employed rational process route, the product processed, play the mutual supplement with each other's advantages of multiple fiber, temperature adjusting performance is more superior than common knitwear, is a kind of knit fabric of high performance-price ratio.
3, with jacquard weave entry combine change rib-loop with change flat pin complex tissue weave, change rib stitch adopts phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn alternately braiding, change plain stitch adopts spun rayon and spandex thread to weave at dials, the yarn floating-point striped of fabric face figured texture weave is in dislocation symmetrical complement, balanced temperature adjustment, fabric backing phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point is more than fine denier viscose yarn floating-point, and with fine denier viscose yarn floating-point to change the mode of flat pin in evenly arranging, reach synergy temperature adjustment, fine and smooth subsides skin, soft warm suitable effect.Under the prerequisite that dual anti-acrylic fibers of thin dawn, the soft pro-skin sense of fine denier viscose are given prominence to, fabric has elastomeric property, gives full play to the accumulation of heat of phase change fiber, heat release effect, plays the balanced synergistic effect of comfortableization temperature adjustment.
4, programming rate is fast at short notice for intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods of the present invention, and intensification value meets the standard-required of FZ/T73036-2010 " moisture absorption heating knitted underwear ", meets the demand of people.
Knit goods various functions index of the present invention has all exceeded existing Product Level, therefore, the market vacancy filled up by knit goods of the present invention, widen the range of application of tencel, impart the textiles feature of environmental protection, comfortableness, intelligent thermoregulating, gather multi-function in integral whole, improve the added value of textiles, meet society to textiles comfortableness, functional requirement.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is a kind of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness of the present invention knit goods front-jacquard plan of weave (note :+expression phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point, × expression fine denier viscose yarn floating-point);
Fig. 2 is a kind of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness of the present invention knit goods reverse side jacquard design (note :+expression phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point, × expression fine denier viscose yarn floating-point);
Fig. 3 is the cam chart adopted in weaving process of the present invention;
Fig. 4 is the knitting needle Pareto diagram adopted in weaving process of the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with drawings and Examples, the present invention is described in further detail.
See Fig. 1, Fig. 2, the embodiment of a kind of intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness of the present invention knit goods, described knit goods be jacquard weave entry combine change rib-loop with change flat pin complex tissue, change rib stitch adopts phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn alternately braiding, and change plain stitch adopts spun rayon and spandex thread to weave; The floating-point striped of the phase transformation viscose blended yarn in fabric face figured texture weave is in dislocation symmetrical complement, balanced temperature adjustment, fabric backing phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point more than fine denier viscose yarn floating-point, and with fine denier viscose yarn floating-point in the mode changing flat pin in evenly arranging.Fabric backing phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point is generally about the twice of fine denier viscose yarn floating-point.
The preferred specification of above-described embodiment Raw is: blended yarn is phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-acrylic fibers 30/30/4014.8tex blended yarn, phase transformation viscose glue is the phase-change accumulation energy viscose containing weight 21% microcapsules, spun rayon is 14.8tex fine denier viscose yarn, and spandex thread is 40D spandex thread.Namely, under the outstanding prerequisite of fine denier viscose, the soft pro-skin sense of dual anti-acrylic fibers of thin dawn, fabric has elastomeric property, gives full play to the accumulation of heat of phase change fiber, heat release effect, plays the balanced synergistic effect of comfortableization temperature adjustment.
The embodiment of the weaving method of a kind of above-mentioned intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods of the present invention, with jacquard weave entry combine change rib-loop with change flat pin complex tissue weave, change rib stitch adopts phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn and fine denier viscose yarn alternately to weave, change plain stitch adopts spun rayon and spandex thread to weave at dials, the floating-point striped of the phase transformation viscose blended yarn in fabric face figured texture weave is in dislocation symmetrical complement, fabric backing phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point is more than fine denier viscose yarn floating-point, and with fine denier viscose yarn floating-point to change the mode of flat pin in evenly arranging.
Concrete weaving process is as follows:
(1), equipment choosing
The two-sided floral disc jacquard knitting machine of type F-Y gear type
Plane No. 20 pins/25.4mm
Barrel dliameter 864mm (34 inches)
Pin number 2088 × 2 pieces
Way 72F (using way 72F)
(2), weaving process
1. knitting needle arrangement:
Upper and lower faller gill arranges and arranges according to rib-loop contraposition.
2. Principle of selecting needle setup:
Dials carries out needle selection by triangle, and the knitting needle on syringe carries out needle selection by the steel rice that floral disc is installed, and carries out loop selection.
3. Fig. 1, Fig. 2 are shown in the citing of flower pattern plan of weave.
(1) cam chart is shown in Fig. 3.
(2) mode of entrying and loop length are in table 1, and knitting needle Pareto diagram is shown in Fig. 4.
Table 1
4. technological parameter
According to pulp furnish, yarn linear density and fabric specification and purposes, carry out in following scope preferably and appropriate adjustment:
(1), yarn tension 5.0-6.9cN(common yarn 4-5.5cN); If flower pattern is complicated, get about 6.05cN for best.
(2), blank grammes per square metre: 180g/m2
(3) horizontal close 33 row/25.4mm, vertical close 31 lines/25.4mm
(4) machine fabric width under: (85cm × 2) ± 5cm.
(3) main points are woven
(1) floral disc steel rice is installed clockwise, carries out the firm rice arrangement of lopping in strict accordance with flower pattern plan of weave, distinguish the order of pattern wheel, identify one by one, in case charge level mistake flower.
(2) debugging adopts synchronized timing, can carry out the grey cloth of upper and lower knitting needle regular order braiding lopping.
(3) half passive types are to yarn.Because flower pattern braiding floral disc steel rice needle selection is irregular, adjusts defeated yarn dish, Thread-feeding device is wound around the number of turns.Solve and go out pin because pattern wheel is irregular, the charge level lateral road that yarn-using amount difference in every road causes.The position of adjustment spandex guide wheel, avoids occurring the problem such as broken hole, crosspiece.
(4) 2-3N in tension adjustment.
(5) yarn and spandex enter yarn simultaneously, prevent material cloth lateral road.
Carried out functional test to the viscose blended fabric of phase-change accumulation energy of the present invention and common viscose blended fabric by FZ/T73036-2010 " moisture absorption heating knitted underwear " standard, the viscose blended fabric of phase-change accumulation energy and common viscose blended fabric moisture absorption heating effectiveness comparison are in table 2:
Table 2 moisture absorption heating effectiveness comparison
As shown in Table 2, in the excursion of body temperature comfortableness, programming rate is fast at short notice for the viscose blended fabric of phase-change accumulation energy, finally intensification value meets the standard-required of FZ/T73036-2010 " moisture absorption heating knitted underwear ", and the most promotion temperature value of phase-change accumulation energy of the present invention viscose blended knit goods moisture absorption heating improves 60% than common viscose blended fabric; 30min on average intensification value improves 50% than common viscose blended fabric, and what meet people takes demand.
The production method of phase-change accumulation energy viscose mainly contains composite spinning method, doughnut completion method, microencapsulation coating method.What the present invention adopted is the phase-change accumulation energy viscose that with the addition of 21% phase-change material micro-capsule (microcapsules average grain diameter 0.7 micron) in spinning solution, utilize this phase change fiber and fine denier viscose, dual anti-acrylic fibers blending of thin dawn resultant yarn, again with fine denier viscose yarn, spandex thread interweaves, this product not only has dual anti-acrylic fibers of thin dawn, the ANTIPILLING of fine denier viscose, insulation, water suction, antistatic, the advantages such as soft pro-skin, also play the intelligent thermoregulating function of phase-change accumulation energy viscose, organic collocation braiding of two kinds of fibers, make knit goods in room temperature or accumulation of heat in the excursion of body temperature comfortableness, the regulatory function of heat release significantly improves, meet the demand of human body appropriateness self-temperature-regulating synergy.
The above is only preferred embodiment of the present invention, and be not restriction the present invention being made to other form, any those skilled in the art may utilize the technology contents of above-mentioned announcement to be changed or be modified as the Equivalent embodiments of equivalent variations.But everyly do not depart from technical solution of the present invention content, any simple modification, equivalent variations and the remodeling done above embodiment according to technical spirit of the present invention, still belong to the protection domain of technical solution of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1. the weaving method of an intelligent thermoregulating comfortableness knit goods, it is characterized in that: with jacquard weave entry combine change rib-loop with change flat pin complex tissue weave, change rib stitch adopts phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn and fine denier viscose yarn alternately to weave, change plain stitch adopts spun rayon and spandex thread to weave at dials, the floating-point striped of the phase transformation viscose blended yarn in fabric face figured texture weave is in dislocation symmetrical complement, fabric backing phase transformation viscose blended yarn floating-point is more than fine denier viscose yarn floating-point, and with fine denier viscose yarn floating-point to change the mode of flat pin in evenly arranging, described blended yarn is phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-acrylic fibers 30/30/40 14.8tex blended yarn, described phase transformation viscose glue is the phase-change accumulation energy viscose containing weight 21% microcapsules, described spun rayon is 14.8tex fine denier viscose yarn, described spandex thread is 40D spandex thread, adopt the direct needle selection braiding of F-Y gear type two-sided floral disc jacquard knitting machine floral disc steel rice, entry mode: 1F, 4F road penetrates 14.8tex phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn, loop length is 230mm/100 pin, 2F, 5F road penetrates 14.8tex fine denier viscose yarn, and loop length is 400mm/100 pin, on 3F, 6F road, pin adds 40D spandex thread, and loop length is 95mm/100 pin, and 3F, 6F road penetrates 14.8tex phase transformation viscose glue/fine denier viscose/thin dawn dual anti-Nitrilon cospinning yarn, and loop length is 220mm/100 pin, yarn tension 5.0-6.9cN, blank grammes per square metre: 230g/m 2, density: horizontal close 33 stringers/25.4mm, vertical close 31 lines/25.4mm, lower machine fabric width: double width 85cm ± 5cm.
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