CN103014989A - Functional fabric as well as production method and application thereof - Google Patents
Functional fabric as well as production method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a functional fabric as well as a production method and an application thereof. 50 to 90 percent by weight of yarns in the fabric are covering yarns or wrap yarns which are formed by terylene short fibers, mucilage glue short fibers and spandex fibers, and 10 to 50 percent by weight of yarns in the fabric are covering yarns or wrap yarns which are formed by ultrafine acrylic short fibers, flat-cross-section mucilage glue short fibers and spandex fibers; and the ratio of the warp coverage coefficient and the weft coverage coefficient of the fabric is 1: 0.6 to 1, and the clo value is more than 0.65. The functional fabric has an insulation function and an elastic function and is suitable for being made into coats worn in autumn and winter, and the wash-and-wear property of the coat which is made of the functional fabric is more than grade 3.5.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of functional textile, be specifically related to a kind of fabric and production method and application with warming non-ironing spring function.
Background technology
Along with the raising of people's living standard, functional fabric more and more is subject to everybody welcome.Functional fabric in the market emerges in an endless stream for catering to consumer demand.
Fabric such as warming class comprises that employing pad pasting, hollow or porous yarn, particular tissues structure realize.As in Chinese patent CN200810201054.9, disclosing a kind of employing water-soluble fibre as heart yarn or companion's spinning, take cotton, wool, terylene or acrylic staple fibre as outer wrapping fiber or interlacing fiber is rolled into cladded yarn or the Seluofle yarn is weaved, then dissolve the fabric that water-soluble fibre forms hollow or loose structure, it is bad that but it washes non-ironing effect, and elasticity is not enough, is subject to a lot of restrictions in use.Autumn and winter, clothes were generally more abundant in addition, arrange cumbersome, consumption manpower more consuming time.Adopt non-ironing anti-creasing agent to process or adopt special yarn for non-ironing kind fabric is general.And for example in Chinese patent CN201010580107.2, adopt 3-tier architecture, and PTT memory filament and terylene, spandex blended yarn and adhesive layer by the top layer effect that reaches non-ironing guarantor's type, although this kind fabric has certain elasticity and non-ironing function, its tissue is complicated, be not suitable for making coat autumn and winter.
And consider the environment of autumn and winter season and wear the aspect such as motion comfortableness, then functional fabric has been proposed to possess simultaneously the requirement of the functions such as warming, non-ironing, elasticity.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to by to the selecting of raw material, cooperate rational Fabric Design, after-processing technology and then a kind of have simultaneously warming, spring function and splendid fabric and production method and the application of ready-made non-ironing garment effect are provided dyes.
Technical solution of the present invention is:
The yarn of 50~90% weight is cladded yarn or the wrap yarn of polyester staple fiber, viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre in the functional fabric of the present invention, and the yarn of 10~50% weight is cladded yarn or the wrap yarn of ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre; And this fabric warp-wise coverage coefficient is 1: 0.6~1 with the ratio of broadwise coverage coefficient, and clo value (CLO value) is more than 0.65.For the use of raw material, all adopted cored or the coating cotton thread that contains spandex fibre in two kinds of compound materials of use, guarantee the longitude and latitude spring rate of finished product; Consider cost, the cladded yarn that ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre form or wrap yarn preferably use as weft yarn, and content accounts for 10~50% weight in fabric, preferred 15~35% weight; Wherein employed ultra-fine Acrylic Fiber is the acrylic staple fibre of fiber number below 0.9 DENIER (hereinafter to be referred as D), can be good at paintedly in dyeing course, brings into play the little feature of its density, has increased the Air Flow layer in fabric; Simultaneously, the viscose staple fibre of flat section can satisfy the final thermal property of product of the present invention by the characteristics of moisture absorption heating.In addition, for guaranteeing simultaneously finished product through needs and the ready-made non-ironing garment shape-retaining ability of broadwise spring function, the ratio between warp-wise coverage coefficient and the broadwise coverage coefficient can not differ too large, and preferred 1: 0.8~1.
Functional fabric of the present invention be organized as plain weave, twill or the alternative construction take plain weave, twill as the basis.The general utility functions fabric often adopts the complex organizations such as satin weave, backed weave in order to reach warming effect, reaches abundant warming effect from the institutional framework aspect, but adopts the fabric of such tissue relatively heavy.And the present invention is well improved aspect snugness of fit by adopting plain weave and the monolayer organizations such as alternative construction, twill and alternative construction thereof thereof, has the sense of the light weight of dress.
The overall coverage coefficient of functional fabric of the present invention is 2500~3800; All more than 10%, elastic recovery rate is all more than 90% through the broadwise spring rate, and that can guarantee the warmth retention property of fabric and ready-made clothes wears the motion comfortableness.
Wherein the computing formula of coverage coefficient is as follows:
Density (the root/inch) of root * warp-wise or broadwise is divided in 2 times of the fiber number of warp-wise or broadwise coverage coefficient=warp thread or weft yarn (DENIER) equally.
Overall coverage coefficient=warp-wise coverage coefficient+broadwise coverage coefficient
Functional fabric surface hairiness coverage values of the present invention is more than the 0.5mm.Because what the present invention needed in Fabric Design is the individual layer simple tissues such as plain weave or twill, when guaranteeing snugness of fit, light weight sense, the warmth retention property aspect is processed by fabric being carried out the single face plucking, makes scored surface form filoplume and covers, and reaches warming effect.Fabric is after plucking, and thickness can increase, and is bearing in the situation of different pressures, and the difference in thickness value embodies the surface hairiness coverage values of fabric.
The production method of functional fabric of the present invention, comprise the steps: to adopt by polyester staple fiber or ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre and viscose staple fibre and the formed cladded yarn of spandex fibre or wrap yarn weave form grey cloth after, the rear arrangement of dyeing is processed, and gets product; Containing the cladded yarn of polyester staple fiber or the content of wrap yarn in the products obtained therefrom is 50~90% weight; The cladded yarn or the wrap yarn content that contain ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre are that 10~50% weight and its viscose staple fibre are flat section; After the dyeing in the arrangement process dyeing maximum temperature be 125~130 degree, and carry out 5~10 receipt face pluckings and process that to make its surface hairiness coverage rate be 55~99.9%.Preferred filoplume coverage values is more than 0.5mm.Here polyester staple fiber comprises ordinary polyester staple fibre and the cation-dyeable polyester staple fibre.
Be specially: the cladded yarn (or wrap yarn) for preparing respectively polyester staple fiber (ordinary polyester staple fibre or the cation-dyeable polyester staple fibre), typical circular section viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre; The cladded yarn (or wrap yarn) of ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre namely prepares respectively T/R/PU (CD-PET/R/PU) cladded yarn or wrap yarn, A/R/PU cladded yarn or wrap yarn.The preparation cladded yarn can adopt spinning process to form T/R or A/R complex yarn with flat section viscose staple fibre polyester staple fiber and viscose staple fibre or ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre first when (or wrap yarn), and then carries out cored (or coating) with spandex fibre and process; Also polyester staple fiber, viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre or ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre directly can be spun into cladded yarn (or wrap yarn).Wherein to account for the mass ratio of whole yarn in A/R/PU cladded yarn (or wrap yarn) be 28~43% to ultra-fine acrylic fiber, and the mass ratio that flat section short rayon fiber dimension hplc accounts for whole yarn is 40~65%, and surplus is spandex fibre.
Used above-mentioned cladded yarn or the twist of wrap yarn are more than 800T/M.Generally when the spandex fibre cored that adopts 40D or coating, more than the preferred 800T/M of the twist; When the spandex that adopts 70D carries out cored or coats, more than the preferred 850T/M of the twist, wash ironing-free performance after guaranteeing the elastic recovery rate of product of the present invention and making ready-made clothes.
The overall coverage coefficient of grey cloth adopts 1800~2500 design, and fabric can obtain comparing through the broadwise coverage coefficient finished product of balance during by contraction in process like this.
Dyeing and finishing technology is specific as follows:
Grey cloth pre-setting: adopt the High Temperature Pre typing of 185~205 degree, preferred 195~205 degree.Door width of cloth aspect shrinkage factor is set as in 15% preferred 11%.Be set as more than 18% preferred 30% through the direction shrinkage factor.
Middle typing: adopt the high temperature of 170~190 degree, preferred 185 degree.Door width of cloth aspect shrinkage factor is set in 5% preferred 3%.Be set in more than 5% preferred 8% through the direction shrinkage factor.
Dyeing: adopt a step two bath dyeing methods, the dyeing maximum temperature is 125~130 degree.For guaranteeing the dyeability of ultra-fine acrylic fiber, be the embrittlement that prevents the spandex part simultaneously, and the secondary workability of considering fabric, preferred 125 degree of dyeing maximum temperature.Adopt first DISPERSE DYES and cation dyes respectively polyster fibre and acrylic fiber to be dyeed.Wherein dye effect for guaranteeing on dyeing uniformity and the acrylic fibers, when 110 spend, need to do insulation and process, and heating rate also to be lower than the ordinary polyester fabric, so adopt the speed below the 1.5 degree/min, the speed of preferred 1.2 degree/min.Adopt again REACTIVE DYES that viscose is dyeed.We can also adopt ACID DYES that it is carried out low temperature dyeing for acrylic fiber.
Stentering forming technique: the fabric after the dyeing is carried out smooth processing, for follow-up fluffing technique is prepared.Adopt the high-temperature shaping of 170~190 degree, preferred 185 degree.The door width of cloth is set according to the existing door width of cloth and is carried out, and warp-wise also must be considered the elasticity of fabric, carries out overfeeding and appends setting, and the carry rate is preferred ++ more than 3.
Plucking treatment process: fabric backing is carried out plucking process, plucking returns several 5~10 times, reaching fabric scored surface filoplume coverage rate is 55~99.9%, preferred filoplume coverage rate reaches more than 90%, the filoplume coverage values is more than the 0.5mm, thickening rate than the thickness before the plucking behind the fabric plucking is more than 10%, preferred 10%~15%.
By the functional fabric that above technique obtains, all more than 15%, elastic recovery rate is all more than 90% through the broadwise spring rate; Have the moisture absorption heating performance, compare with the same specification fabric, more than high 0.5 degree of moisture absorption heating temperature; Have heat-insulating property, compare with the same specification fabric, clo value is high more than 0.05, no matter is under peace and quiet or the state of motion after the dress, and the sense of skin actual temperature is than more than high 2 degree of same specification fabric.The ready-made clothes made from this fabric has washes non-ironing shape-retaining ability energy, and ready-made clothes washes ironing-free performance more than 3.5 grades, is fit to make each style coat of autumn and winter season.
The specific embodiment
Each related among the present invention performance test method is as follows:
(1) spring rate
Get the cloth specimen of 5cm*30cm through each 3 of broadwises.The jaws spacing that the strength and elongation instrument is set is 20cm, and draw speed is 20cm/min, and sample cloth is sandwiched in the jaws, and hanging up just loading is that 5cm*1m size cloth specimen is heavy, makes the stretching cloth, measures jaws spacing L (cm) when being stretched to 14.7N, the calculating elastic rate.Spring rate=(L-20)/20*100%.The mean value of 3 cloth of the broadwise of learning from else's experience.
(2) elastic recovery rate
Get the cloth specimen of 5cm*30cm through each 3 of broadwises.The jaws spacing that the strength and elongation instrument is set is 20cm, and draw speed is 20cm/min, and sample cloth is sandwiched in the jaws, and hanging up just loading is that 5cm*1m size cloth specimen is heavy.Make the stretching cloth, be stretched to 80% rear placement 1 minute of spring rate and then be returned to original position and placed 3 minutes.Repeatedly stretch as stated above after 5 times, move again the above loading position of initial loading to.Measure residual elongation, the calculating elastic response rate from the curve of the loading-elongation of record.Elastic recovery rate=(L1-L)/L*100%.The mean value of 3 cloth of the broadwise of learning from else's experience.L is spring rate be 80% time elongation, and L1 is residual elongation after stretching for 5 times.
(3) heat insulating ability clo value: in the BT-BOX of 40 degree, measure power (W) value that fabric consumes, then be converted into clo value.
(4) easy-care properties: after fabric made ready-made clothes, adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method, after carrying out 5 back scrubbing and washing, after hang airing is processed, confirm again size changing rate and the distortion recovery situation at each position of clothes according to AATCC TM88 criterion.
(5) moisture absorption heating: employing section agree assay method.With fabric 105 degree after dry and cooling and the damping under the condition of temperature 20 degree and humidity 90%, measure its temperature variations.
(6) skin actual temperature sense: after fabric made clothes, with the product of same specification at artificial meteorological office with (set according to indoor temperature 22 degree, human body is in rest state under the condition; Set according to outdoor temperature 10 degree, human body moves) test, measure the skin actual temperature by sensor, and do not contrast according to the time.
(7) filoplume coverage values: under warm and humid condition, measure its one-tenth-value thickness 1/10 for the different pressure of sample, at 240g/cm
2Sample thickness value and 3g/cm under the pressure condition
2Difference under the pressure condition between the one-tenth-value thickness 1/10.
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.
Embodiment 1
Warp thread: T/R/PU wrap yarn, weft yarn: CD-PET/R/PU wrap yarn, A/R/PU wrap yarn; The arrangement ratio of two kinds of yarns of weft yarn is 1: 1; Adopt 2/2 twill-weave to weave, the overall coverage coefficient of gained grey cloth is 2117, and grey cloth is 1: 0.9 through broadwise coverage coefficient ratio, and the rear arrangement processing of then dyeing obtains product.
Wherein T/R/PU wrap yarn, CD-PET/R/PU wrap yarn: by spinning process polyester staple fiber or cation dyeable polyester staple fibre and typical circular section viscose staple fibre are made T/R or the CD-PET/R composite yarn of 40S/2 first, and then coat with the 70D spandex respectively that to form the twist be T/R/PU wrap yarn, the CD-PET/R/PU wrap yarn of 850T/M; A/R/PU wrap yarn: the A/R composite yarn of by spinning process acrylic staple fibre, viscose staple fibre being made first 40S/2, and then coat with the 70D spandex that to form the twist be the 850T/M wrap yarn, wherein the filament fiber number of acrylic staple fibre is 0.9D, the mass percent that its content accounts for whole wrap yarn is 56%, viscose staple fibre is flat section, the mass percent that its content accounts for whole wrap yarn is 37%, and the mass percent that spandex fibre accounts for whole wrap yarn is 7%.
Finishing process is as follows after the dyeing:
The grey cloth pre-setting: temperature 205 degree, the door width of cloth are set partially narrow by 12% (grey cloth door width of cloth 187cm sets a door width of cloth 155cm), through the direction shrinkage factor be set as 30% (60/inch of grey cloth weft density, after the grey cloth typing density be 78/inch);
Middle typing: temperature 185 degree, the door width of cloth are set partially narrow by 5% (typing Qianmen width of cloth 148cm sets a door width of cloth 140cm), through the direction shrinkage factor be set as 8% (filling density is 79/inch before the typing, the rear density of grey cloth typing be 85/inch);
Dyeing: adopt a step two bath methods, the dyeing maximum temperature is 125 degree.When DISPERSE DYES and cationic dyeing, insulation is 20 minutes when 110 spend, and adopts the heating rate of 1.2 degree/min; Adopt again REACTIVE DYES 65 degree that viscose is dyeed;
Stentering forming technique: temperature 185 degree, finalize the design with keeping existing filling density by the existing door width of cloth;
The plucking treatment process: fabric backing is carried out the single face plucking process, it is 8 times that plucking returns number, and fabric filoplume coverage values is 0.56mm.
By above technique, the content of T/R/PU and CD-PET/R/PU wrap yarn is that the content of 76%, A/R/PU wrap yarn is 24% in the functional fabric that obtains; The overall coverage coefficient of fabric is 3000, is 1: 0.83 through broadwise coverage coefficient ratio.
Properties of product: this fabric warp-wise elasticity is 18%, and elastic recovery rate is 91%; Broadwise elasticity is 16%, and elastic recovery rate is 92%; The thermal property clo value is 0.72, compares high by 0.06 with same specification product (T/CD-PET/R/PU); Moisture absorption heating is 2.7 degree, compares high 0.7 degree with same specification product (T/CD-PET/R/PU); After functional fabric of the present invention was made ready-made clothes, at indoor 22 degree, under the rest state, the sense of skin actual temperature was 31.5 degree, compares high 2.3 degree with same specification product (T/CD-PET/R/PU); Under motion state, under the temperature 10 degree conditions, the skin actual temperature is 27 degree, compares high 2 degree with same specification product (T/CD-PET/R/PU); And ready-made clothes has washes non-ironing shape-retaining ability energy, and it washes ironing-free performance is 4 grades.
Embodiment 2
Warp thread: 40S T/R+40D spandex, wherein the length 38mm of T/R staple fibre adopts polyester staple fiber, typical circular section viscose staple fibre and spandex to adopt RING SPINNING cladded yarn Direct Spinning to make T/R/PU composite elastic cladded yarn, and its twist is 800T/M;
Weft yarn: 30S A/R+40D spandex, adopt ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, viscose staple fibre and spandex to adopt RING SPINNING cladded yarn technology Direct Spinning to make the A/R/PU cladded yarn.Wherein the filament fiber number of acrylic staple fibre is 0.9D, and its mass percent that accounts for yarn is 57%, and viscose staple fibre is flat section, and its mass percent that accounts for yarn is 38%, and the mass percent that spandex accounts for yarn is 5%;
Adopt plain weave to weave, the overall coverage coefficient of gained grey cloth is 1920, and grey cloth is 1: 0.8 through broadwise coverage coefficient ratio; Dyeing and finishing processing method: with embodiment 1;
By above technique, the coverage coefficient that obtains functional fabric is 2500, is 1: 0.98 through broadwise coverage coefficient ratio; The content of T/R/PU cladded yarn is that the content of 51%, A/R/PU cladded yarn is 49% in the fabric, and the warp-wise elasticity of fabric is 12%, and elastic recovery rate is 91%, and grain cross elasticity is 10%, and the broadwise elastic recovery rate is 90%, fabric filoplume coverage values 0.61mm.
Properties of product: this fabric warp-wise elasticity is 17.5%, and elastic recovery rate is 90.5%, and product broadwise elasticity is 16.5%, and elastic recovery rate is 91%; Compare high 0.9 degree of moisture absorption heating performance (this product 3.1 degree, same specification product 2.1 degree) with the T/R/PU product of same size; Thermal property clo value high by 0.08 (this product 0.76, same specification product 0.68); After making ready-made clothes with style with the same specification product, under rest state, the sense of skin actual temperature is than high 2.6 degree of same specification fabric (this product 31.6 degree, same specification product 29 degree), under motion state, the sense of skin actual temperature is than high 3 degree of same specification fabric (this product 28 degree, same specification product 25 degree), the ready-made clothes made from this fabric has washes non-ironing shape-retaining ability energy, and it is 4.5 grades that ready-made clothes is washed ironing-free performance.
Embodiment 3:
Warp thread: T/R/PU wrap yarn and A/R/PU carry out 2: 1 assortment ratio, weft yarn: T/R/PU wrap yarn, wherein the filament fiber number of acrylic staple fibre is 0.9D, tissue adopts 3/1/2/1 diversified twill to weave, other techniques are with embodiment 1, T/R/PU wrap yarn content is that 89.4%, A/R/PU wrap yarn content is 10.6% in the functional fabric that obtains; Fabric cover is 3800, is 1: 0.6 through broadwise coverage coefficient ratio, fabric filoplume coverage values 0.57mm.
Properties of product: this fabric warp-wise elasticity is 17.5%, and elastic recovery rate is 90.5%, and broadwise elasticity is 17%, and elastic recovery rate is 91%; The thermal property clo value is 0.66, and moisture absorption heating is 2.8 degree, compares high 0.8 degree with same specification product (T/R/PU); After functional fabric of the present invention was made ready-made clothes, when indoor 22 spent, under the rest state, the sense of skin actual temperature was 31.3 degree, compared high 2.1 degree with same specification product (T/R/PU); Under motion state, under the condition of temperature 10 degree, the sense of skin actual temperature is 26.5 degree, compares high 1.5 degree with same specification product (T/R/PU); And ready-made clothes has washes non-ironing shape-retaining ability energy, and it washes ironing-free performance is 4 grades.
Claims (9)
1. functional fabric, it is characterized in that: cladded yarn or the wrap yarn of the yarn of 50~90% weight for being formed by polyester staple fiber, viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre in this fabric, 10~50% weight yarn be cladded yarn or the wrap yarn that is formed by ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and spandex fibre; And this fabric warp-wise coverage coefficient is 1: 0.6~1 with the ratio of broadwise coverage coefficient, and clo value is more than 0.65.
2. functional fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: this fabric is plain weave, twill-weave or with plain weave, twill is the alternative construction on basis.
3. functional fabric according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that: the overall coverage coefficient of this fabric is 2500~3800.
4. functional fabric according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that: all more than 10%, elastic recovery rate is all more than 90% through the broadwise spring rate for this fabric.
5. functional fabric according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that: this fabric face filoplume coverage values is more than the 0.5mm.
6. the production method of a functional fabric claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: comprise the steps: to adopt by polyester staple fiber or ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre and viscose staple fibre and the formed cladded yarn of spandex fibre or wrap yarn weave form grey cloth after, the rear arrangement of dyeing is processed, and gets product; Containing the cladded yarn of polyester staple fiber or the content of wrap yarn in the products obtained therefrom is 50~90% weight; The content that contains the cladded yarn of ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre or wrap yarn be 10~50% weight and wherein viscose staple fibre be flat section; The maximum temperature that dyes in the arrangement process after the dyeing is 125~130 degree, and carries out the lifting by one side hair and process.
7. the production method of functional fabric according to claim 6, it is characterized in that: the cladded yarn that adopts or the twist of wrap yarn are more than 800T/M.
8. the production method of functional fabric according to claim 6 is characterized in that: in the rear arrangement process of described dyeing, grey cloth pre-setting temperature is between 195~205 degree.
9. a functional fabric claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that in the application of making aspect coat autumn and winter: after adopting JIS L 0,217 103 method to carry out 5 back scrubbing to wash, this coat according to AATCC TM88 standard its wash non-ironing shape-retaining ability can be more than 3.5 grades.
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CN108867109A (en) * | 2018-07-26 | 2018-11-23 | 浙江雅雪染整有限公司 | A kind of viscous shuttle-woven fabric dyeing and finishing technology of hair |
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Application publication date: 20130403 |