CN102307565A - 通过颜色处理来处理毛发损伤的方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种处理一种或多种毛干的方法，各毛干包括角质层和封闭在角质层中的皮质。该方法包括：选择一种或多种可渗透孔径为约5埃-约5000埃的毛干的聚合物；以及通过将有效量的含所述聚合物的组合物施涂至所述毛干上来处理毛干。
Description
相关申请的交叉引用
本申请为2008年3月3日递交的美国专利申请序列号12/041,081的部分继续申请，还要求了它的优先权，其公开内容引入本文供参考。
背景技术
随着流行或名人时尚趋势，越来越多的消费者使用毛发处理来追求时髦发型。颜色处理包括毛发染色、挑染以及漂白。尽管这些发型技术极大地满足了消费者的需求，但它们也导致了严重的毛发损伤，特别是当反复使用这些处理时。此外，毛发所受的各种日常行为，例如毛发梳理、头发吹干和日光曝露加重了对毛发的损伤。
通常认为化学处理和/或紫外线曝露引起毛发损伤，其使得孔隙度增加和毛发角质层膨胀。这就是毛发受损伤时毛发变得蓬乱、粗糙而且暗淡的原因。此外，由于认为皮质主要负责人毛发的拉伸性能，所以当毛发的皮质受损时毛发失去其拉伸强度。毛发的角质层为扭转机械性能中的重要因素，但其对整体纵向机械强度的贡献较小。因此，拉伸强度的测量不仅是评估毛发损伤的方法，而且也是判定损伤是否渗透至皮质的指示。一种修复受损毛发自然属性的方式为恢复其降低的拉伸强度。
因此需要一种解决至少一些上述问题的处理毛发的方法。
发明概述
本发明提供一种处理一种或多种毛干的方法，各毛干包括受损毛发的角质层和封闭在角质层中的皮质，该方法包括：选择一种或多种可渗透孔径为约5埃-约5,000埃的毛干的一种或多种PolyDADMAC聚合物；以及通过将有效量的含所述聚合物的组合物施涂至所述毛干上来处理毛干。
附图简要说明
图1显示聚合物II相对于对照物(未添加聚合物)的拉伸强度的统计分析。
图2显示聚合物I和II相对于对照物(未添加聚合物)的拉伸强度增量。
图3显示聚合物IV相对于对照物(未添加聚合物)的拉伸强度的统计分析。
图4显示用聚合物II和对照物(未添加聚合物)处理的毛发的表面积分析研究。
发明详述
定义：“PolyDADMAC”是指聚(二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵)。
化学损伤毛发是指由毛发损伤是由包括烫发、毛发挑染、染发和毛发松散的化学处理所引起的。
热损伤毛发是指毛发损伤是由包括毛发吹干、毛发热定型的热处理所引起的。
紫外线损伤毛发是指毛发损伤是由过度紫外线曝露所引起的。
如上所述，用一种或多种可渗透孔径为约5埃-约5000埃的毛干的聚合物处理一种或多种毛干。
在一个实施方案中，毛干孔径为约10埃-约1000埃。
在另一个实施方案中，处理的目的为营养和/或修复毛干。
在另一个实施方案中，处理的目的为改善毛发的拉伸强度。
通常，所使用的聚合物应具有足以渗入毛干的皮质而不易于从皮质中移出的尺寸。本领域熟练技术人员不用过度试验就可以判定聚合物是否满足这一具体标准。因此，线性、支化、超支化或树枝状聚合物可满足这一标准。
可使用多种类型和结构的聚合物处理毛干。
在一个实施方案中，PolyDADMAC聚合物选自均聚物、共聚物、三元共聚物、及其组合。
在另一个实施方案中，PolyDADMAC聚合物选自阳离子型聚合物。
在另一个实施方案中，PolyDADMAC聚合物选自：PolyDADMAC、聚(丙烯酸钠)、及其组合。
在另一个实施方案中，除PolyDADMAC外，聚合物的重均分子量为约300道尔顿-约80,000道尔顿，其中对于PolyDADMAC而言，所述范围的上限为小于15,000道尔顿。
在另一个实施方案中，PolyDADMAC的重均分子量为约1,500至小于15,000。
在另一个实施方案中，基于所述组合物中的活性物，PolyDADMAC的重量百分数为0.1重量％-约10重量％。
在另一个实施方案中，PolyDADMAC的重均分子量为约1,200-约5,700道尔顿。
在另一个实施方案中，聚(丙烯酸钠)的重均分子量为约300道尔顿-约30,000道尔顿。
在另一个实施方案中，聚(丙烯酸钠)的重均分子量为约3,000道尔顿-约15,000道尔顿。
毛干因多种方式受损，例如通过过度加工毛发，更具体而言，染发、松散毛发、过度漂白毛发、毛发曝露于紫外线、毛发的热处理和/或通过环境应力。
在一个实施方案中，使用聚合物处理受化学损伤和/或紫外线损伤和/或热损伤的毛发。
在另一个实施方案中，可使用聚合物预防毛发受损或抑制毛发损伤速率、或修复受损毛发。
组合物可进一步包含一种或多种化妆品可接受的赋形剂。化妆品可接受的赋形剂为当其与本发明的一种或多种聚合物混合时使得聚合物更适合施涂至毛发的无毒、无刺激性的物质。
在一个实施方案中，赋形剂选自水、糖类、表面活性剂、保湿剂、矿脂、矿物油、脂肪醇、脂肪酸酯润肤剂、蜡和含硅酮蜡、硅油、硅氧烷液、硅酮表面活性剂、挥发性烃油、季氮化合物、胺官能化的硅酮、调理聚合物、流变改性剂、抗氧剂、遮光活性剂、约C10-C22的单-、二-或三长链胺、约C10-C22的长链脂肪胺、脂肪醇、乙氧基化脂肪醇和二末端磷脂。
包含PolyDADMAC聚合物的组合物可呈各种形式。本领域技术人员将知道如何将聚合物与化妆品可接受的赋形剂和/或组合物的其他组分调配。
在一个实施方案中，组合物选自洗发剂、护发素、烫发剂、直发膏、毛发漂白剂、毛发柔顺洗液、造型凝胶、造型亮泽剂(glazes)、喷雾泡沫、造型乳膏、造型蜡、造型洗液、摩斯、喷雾凝胶、润发油、染发制剂、临时和永久性染发剂、护色护发素、毛发挑染剂、染色和非染色毛发漂洗剂、毛发调色剂、烫发定型剂、烫发剂、卷发剂、直发剂、美发助剂(hair grooming aid)、头发滋补剂(hair tonics)、美发及氧化产品、喷剂、造型蜡和香膏。
以下实施例并不是指具有限制性。
实施例
对于这一实施例部分，聚合物的重均分子量通过尺寸排阻层析/多角度激光散射(或SEC/MALLS)技术测定。尺寸排阻层析法(SEC)为通过使用一系列来自TOSOH BIOSCIENCE的TSK-GEL PW柱、多角度激光散射检测器(MALLS，型号：DAWN DSP-F)和来自Wyatt Technology的干涉折射计(OPTILAP DSP)进行。用来自Wyatt Technology的ASTRA软件进行数据收集及分析。
实施例索引
| 聚合物 | 化学 | 分子量 |
| I | PolyDADMAC | 1,300 |
| II | PolyDADMAC | 3,800 |
| III | PolyDADMAC | 5,700 |
| IV | PolyDADMAC | 150,000 |
实施例详情
a.拉伸强度测量
对化学受损毛发进行抗拉强度测试。方案包括以下步骤。
通过在40+/-1℃下，使天然棕色毛发在包含1.7％氢氧化铵和10％尿素的6％过氧化氢溶液中浸渍15分钟来漂白。然后将经过漂白的毛发在1％(固体)聚合物溶液中处理5分钟并且在去离子水中漂洗10秒。
使用纤维尺寸分析系统(Mitutoyo，型号LSM 5000)测量随机选自各经处理的及未经处理(“对照物”)试验组的四十股毛发的直径。将毛发样品放置于DiaStron微型拉伸试验机(型号170/670)中测定在湿润条件下的拉伸强度。通过使用DiaStron软件(MTTWIN应用软件5.0版)计算用毛发直径标准化的总工作力。使用Tukey HSD统计分析来分析由40股毛发获得的平均值以比较全部测试对(ANOVA，来自JMP统计软件的单因子变异数分析，SAS Institute，Cary，NC，U.S)。测试结果及统计分析概括在以下表格和图中。阳离子型聚合物的结果显示在表1和表2中。阴离子型聚合物的结果显示在表3和表4中。
表1：阳离子型聚合物的化学和分子量
表2：对于表1中所列处理的拉伸强度测量
| 样品名称 | 拉伸强度(J) | 提高％ |
| 对照物 | 0.00104 | |
| 聚合物IV | 0.00107 | ≈0 |
| 聚合物II | 0.00122 | 17.31 |
由表1、表2和图1显而易见的是，聚合物II的低分子量使拉伸强度显著提高了约17％，而统计分析显示对照物和聚合物IV之间的拉伸强度不存在显著差异(图3)。用聚合物I(低分子量PoIyDADMAC)进行实验。结果显示在图2中。这些结果显示低分子量聚合物的渗透可恢复受损毛发所损失的拉伸强度。
b.表面积测量
还对经处理和未经处理的发束进行表面积分析以判定低分子量聚合物物质是否渗透毛干。方案包括以下步骤。
经由氮吸附分析进行表面积分析。使用QuantachromeAutosorb-1C仪器对毛发样品进行氮吸附分析。将样品切成非常精细的碎片并且随后加入样品槽中，在此将它们放置在145℃、真空下达0.5小时。获得精确测量必需完全除去水，这是使用145℃的原因。这一值是基于从差示扫描量热法(DSC)收集的数据，其中脱水峰在125℃左右出现。对于全部样品使用5-pt BET(Brunauer-Emmett-Teller)表面积分析。表面积的减少表明低分子量聚合物渗透毛发并且占据了遍布于整个毛干中的孔隙空间。
图5中说明表面分析研究的结果。由图5的气体吸附分析显示用聚合物II处理的毛干的表面积减少，其说明低分子量聚合物有效渗入毛干中。
Claims (15)
1.处理一种或多种毛干的方法，各毛干包括受化学、紫外线、热和环境损伤的毛发的角质层和封闭在角质层中的皮质，该方法包括：选择一种或多种可渗透孔径为约5埃-约5000埃的毛干的PolyDADMAC聚合物；以及通过将有效量的含所述PolyDADMAC聚合物的组合物施涂至所述毛干上来处理毛干。
2.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述PolyDADMAC聚合物的重均分子量为小于15,000道尔顿。
3.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述化学损伤包括毛发的漂白、挑染、松散或染色。
4.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述聚合物选自均聚物、共聚物、三元共聚物、及其组合。
5.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述聚合物选自阳离子型聚合物。
6.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述聚合物为线性的。
7.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述聚合物选自：PolyDADMAC、聚(丙烯酸钠)、及其组合。
8.根据权利要求7的方法，其中所述PolyDADMAC聚合物的重均分子量为约1,200道尔顿至小于15,000道尔顿。
9.根据权利要求8的方法，其中基于所述组合物中的活性物，所述PolyDADMAC的重量百分数为约0.1％-约10％。
10.根据权利要求7的方法，其中所述聚(丙烯酸钠)的重均分子量为约300道尔顿-约30,000道尔顿。
11.根据权利要求7的方法，其中所述聚(丙烯酸钠)的重均分子量为约300道尔顿-约6,000道尔顿。
12.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述组合物包含一种或多种化妆品可接受的赋形剂。
13.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述赋形剂选自水、糖类、表面活性剂、保湿剂、矿脂、矿物油、脂肪醇、脂肪酸酯润肤剂、蜡和含硅酮蜡、硅油、硅氧烷液、硅酮表面活性剂、挥发性烃油、季氮化合物、胺官能化的硅酮、调理聚合物、流变改性剂、抗氧剂、遮光活性剂、约C10-C22的二-长链胺、约C10-C22的长链脂肪胺、脂肪醇、乙氧基化脂肪醇和二末端磷脂。
14.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述组合物选自洗发剂、护发素、烫发剂、毛发漂白剂、毛发柔顺洗液、造型凝胶、造型亮泽剂、喷雾泡沫、造型乳膏、造型蜡、造型洗液、摩斯、喷雾凝胶、润发油、染发制剂、临时和永久性染发剂、护色护发素、毛发挑染剂、染色和非染色毛发漂洗剂、毛发调色剂、烫发定型剂、烫发剂、卷发剂、直发剂、美发助剂、头发滋补剂、美发及氧化产品、喷剂、造型蜡和香膏。
15.根据权利要求1的方法，其中所述孔径为约5埃-约5,000埃。
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| US12/346,332 | 2008-12-30 | ||
| US12/346,332 US8158116B2 (en) | 2008-03-03 | 2008-12-30 | Method for treating hair damaged by color treatments |
| PCT/US2009/069670 WO2010078311A1 (en) | 2008-12-30 | 2009-12-29 | A method for treating hair damaged by color treatments |
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| CN107529864A (zh) * | 2015-05-12 | 2018-01-02 | 夏普株式会社 | 护发方法及使用于该护发方法的护发装置 |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| US8158116B2 (en) * | 2008-03-03 | 2012-04-17 | Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. | Method for treating hair damaged by color treatments |
| US20100166692A1 (en) * | 2008-12-30 | 2010-07-01 | Hessefort Yin Z | Method for treating damaged hair in conjunction with the relaxing process |
| US20120324354A1 (en) * | 2011-06-15 | 2012-12-20 | Chipperfield John Stuart | Computer system |
| KR20230107897A (ko) * | 2016-10-25 | 2023-07-18 | 디에스엠 아이피 어셋츠 비.브이. | 자외선 손상에 대한 모발 보호를 위한 4차 암모늄 기를갖는 양이온성 중합체의 용도 |
| US11564789B2 (en) | 2017-07-31 | 2023-01-31 | Loria Products Llc | Hair implants comprising enhanced anchoring and medical safety features |
| MX2020001324A (es) | 2017-07-31 | 2020-10-28 | Loria Products Llc | Implantes capilares que comprenden características de anclaje mejorado y seguridad medica. |
| DE102017215744A1 (de) * | 2017-09-07 | 2019-03-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verfahren und System zum Ermitteln eines Porositätsgrads von Haar |
| EP4279060A1 (de) | 2022-05-16 | 2023-11-22 | Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft | Haar-styling-zubereitungen, die einen uv-schutz bewirken |
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| JP2003026544A (ja) | 2001-07-11 | 2003-01-29 | Lion Corp | 毛髪化粧料 |
| DE102005004704A1 (de) | 2005-02-02 | 2006-08-10 | Goldschmidt Gmbh | Guanidinogruppen-haltige Siloxane und deren Verwendung für kosmetische Formulierungen |
| US7820147B2 (en) | 2005-11-18 | 2010-10-26 | Mata Michael T | Hair restorative compositions and methods for treating damaged hair and safely chemically treating hair |
| US8158116B2 (en) | 2008-03-03 | 2012-04-17 | Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. | Method for treating hair damaged by color treatments |
| US20090220446A1 (en) * | 2008-03-03 | 2009-09-03 | Hessefort Yin Z | Method for treating hair |
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- 2009-10-21 TW TW098135540A patent/TW201023903A/zh unknown
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- 2009-12-29 WO PCT/US2009/069670 patent/WO2010078311A1/en active Application Filing
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| US3986825A (en) * | 1972-06-29 | 1976-10-19 | The Gillette Company | Hair coloring composition containing water-soluble amino and quaternary ammonium polymers |
| JPH07242522A (ja) * | 1994-01-12 | 1995-09-19 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 毛髪処理用組成物 |
| US6162424A (en) * | 1997-04-07 | 2000-12-19 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions containing a cationic polymer of low molecular mass and a silicone, and uses thereof |
| EP1449512A1 (en) * | 2003-02-24 | 2004-08-25 | L'oreal | Multimineral no-mix relaxer |
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| WO2010078311A1 (en) | 2010-07-08 |
| CL2009002107A1 (es) | 2010-07-02 |
| US8158116B2 (en) | 2012-04-17 |
| TW201023903A (en) | 2010-07-01 |
| BRPI0923909A2 (pt) | 2015-07-21 |
| AR074964A1 (es) | 2011-02-23 |
| JP2012514042A (ja) | 2012-06-21 |
| US20090220447A1 (en) | 2009-09-03 |
| EP2381921A1 (en) | 2011-11-02 |
| BRPI0923909B1 (pt) | 2018-03-27 |
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