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CN102102257A - Non-lining woven fabric - Google Patents

Non-lining woven fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102102257A
CN102102257A CN2009102611935A CN200910261193A CN102102257A CN 102102257 A CN102102257 A CN 102102257A CN 2009102611935 A CN2009102611935 A CN 2009102611935A CN 200910261193 A CN200910261193 A CN 200910261193A CN 102102257 A CN102102257 A CN 102102257A
Authority
CN
China
Prior art keywords
weave
fabric
weft yarn
yarn
lining
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
CN2009102611935A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
包庆
蔡东照
顾梅花
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd filed Critical Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Priority to CN2009102611935A priority Critical patent/CN102102257A/en
Publication of CN102102257A publication Critical patent/CN102102257A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

The invention discloses a non-lining woven fabric, which comprises two tissues, wherein a surface tissue is plain weave, inclined weave or variable inclined weave; an inner tissue is inclined weave, satin weave, variable satin weave or multi-arm small jacquard weave; and the yarn proportion of surface and inner yarns is (2-8):1. The non-lining woven fabric provided by the invention has the weave effect on the back side by changing the weave, without using the lining process. Besides, the non-lining woven fabric has excellent comfortableness, is low in manufacturing cost and is environment-friendly.

Description

A kind of non-make-up machine fabric
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of non-make-up machine fabric, be specifically related to the woven fabric that a kind of reverse side has knitting effect.
Background technology
Knit fabric has better elastic, hygroscopicity and gas permeability and soft fluffy, has reduced the friction between lining and the skin when wearing, and the parent that its distinctive snugness of fit wins many consumers looks at; But its DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, washing COLOR FASTNESS and anti-to collude a pilling property poor again.
Woven fabric has good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, resists and collude a pilling property and COLOR FASTNESS, but feel and moisture permeability are not as good as knit fabric.This lining in the market substantially all is based on woven fabric, by adhesive knit fabric is sticked at the woven fabric reverse side.
The disclosed a kind of composite material of patent No. ZL200820163965.2 adopts woven and knit fabric, by adhesive, woven and knit fabric is bonded together, and employed adhesive is generally polyurethane in this invention, and the polyurethane cost is higher; Weather fastness is poor; Chance water, heat, alkali are wanted hydrolysis, and are generally contained formaldehyde.
The lining of disclosed a kind of cotton of patent No. ZL200820036418.8 and silk blend, adopt be organize in the table all be 2/1 twill through backed weave, exposing a little can appear embedding in the surface of this fabric, can influence the whole structure of fabric, and not have knitting effect of the present invention.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of non-make-up machine knitted fabric, its reverse side has knitting style.
Technical solution of the present invention is as follows:
A kind of non-make-up machine fabric, this woven fabric is made of through weft yarn heterochromatic, adopts backed weave, and table organization is the alternative construction of plain weave, twill, satin weave or above-mentioned tissue, in be organized as twill, satin weave, satin weave alternative construction or multi-arm small jacquard tissue, table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 2~8: 1.The heterochromatic different yarn of color that adopts through broadwise that is meant through weft yarn here.Heterochromatic preferred dark color and light color are arranged in pairs or groups, and as black and white, blue and white, redness and white, purple and white collocation, big more through the weft yarn colour contrast, then knitting effect is obvious more, otherwise then; If colour system yarn of the same race, the then knitting DeGrain of reverse side.Fabric adopts through two-fold or filling-backed weave, and by the differentiation of yarn in the table yarn, the rule of drifting along according to different separately can form independently tissue effect.The arrangement of table back warp weft yarn is than the knitting effect that also can influence fabric backing.If less than 2: 1, then reverse side did not have knitting effect than (promptly show back warp and arrange ratio or table back weft arrangement ratio) to show the back warp weft yarn arrangement; Compare greater than 8: 1 and arrange, then the knitting DeGrain of reverse side.
Heterochromatic heterochromatic yarn after weft yarn is meant dyed yarn or piece dyeing finishing.Specifically be that what to select for use through broadwise is the dyed yarn with heterochromatic effect; Or by after weft yarn is made into grey cloth, dyeing of forming of the raw fiber of heterogeneity have heterochromatic effect through weft yarn, wherein be preferably terylene and modified dacron, terylene and nylon, terylene and cottonly use as raw fiber through weft yarn.When selecting dyed yarn for use, can be the same or different through the weft yarn composition, when when the weft yarn composition is identical, can by on dye different colour systems dyestuff reach heterochromatic effect; When not simultaneously through the weft yarn composition, can by on dye different types of dyestuff and reach heterochromatic effect.
The table organization of this fabric is plain weave or its alternative construction, and the lining is organized as twill or multi-arm small jacquard tissue, and table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 2~5: 1, preferred 2~3: 1.Preferred this fabric is a filling-backed weave, table organization is plain weave or its alternative construction, in be organized as multi-arm small jacquard tissue, can cover the some shortcomings of plain weave or its alternative construction like this by the colored type effect of utilizing multi-arm small jacquard tissue, make the knitting effect of fabric backing more obvious.
The table organization of this fabric is twill or its alternative construction, and the lining is organized as satin weave or its alternative construction, and table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 2~6: 1, preferred 3~5: 1.Preferred this fabric is through backed weave, and tissue effect's difference of tissue is obvious in the table like this, can strengthen the knitting effect of reverse side.
The table organization of this fabric is satin weave or its alternative construction, and the lining is organized as twill-weave or its alternative construction, and table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 3~8: 1, preferred 3~6: 1.Preferred this fabric is through backed weave, and table organization is a satin weave, and the lining is organized as twill-weave, can strengthen the knitting effect of reverse side like this.
In addition, unsuitable long through the floating continuously long point of weft yarn, when when the floating continuously long point of weft yarn surpasses 5 points, according to GB/T4802, GB/T11047, the anti-pilling property that colludes of fabric is difficult to up to standard.
Table organization of the present invention selects the alternative construction of plain weave, twill, satin weave or above tissue for use, and reason is that the interlacing point of these tissues has certain rules, regular following when design table yarn and lining yarn binding place; Certainly the binding place of table yarn and lining yarn must be controlled at the centre of neighboar lists yarn floating-point, and such access node mode can make binding place not be exposed at fabric face outward, makes the style of fabric more natural.And in tissue adopt the former of twill, satin weave, satin weave alternative construction or multi-arm small jacquard tissue because: above tissue is all long through the floating long point of weft yarn, than being easier to embody tissue effect, and soft, exquisiteness is similar to the knitwear feel.
Be to form the effect of knitting technology weaves such as large-mesh, pearl ground, need on the contrary with table organization reverse side ridge orientation on the ridge orientation of lining tissue surface, just can form similar knitting effect at fabric backing like this, warp count is low, then the similar large-mesh tissue of effect; Warp count height, the then similar pearl of effect ground tissue; Above several tissues, in the distribution of interlacing point relatively evenly, thereby striped that can occurrence law influences knitting effect.
Select for use dyed yarn as after cooperating above-mentioned tissue to be made into look again through weft yarn to knit grey cloth, carry out refining-typing then and make finished product with heterochromatic effect; Can adopt also that different fibrous raw materials form after weft yarn is made into openpore, make finished product by refining-typing-dyeing-drying-typing again.In order to give prominence to the functional of fabric better, preferably after drying, carry out functional resin processing.
Woven fabric of the present invention, the processing that need not to fit by the variation of tissue, just can make its reverse side have knitting effect and has the feel of knitwear, shows nexine and connects together, and has saved cost; And do not use any adhesive, environmental protection.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the back warp organization chart of embodiment 2;
Fig. 2 is the back warp organization chart of embodiment 3.
The specific embodiment
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.
The testing standard of various performance parameters is as follows in the embodiment of the invention:
(1) anti-pilling GB/T4802
(2) an anti-property GB/T11047 that colludes
(3) WATER REPELLENCY GB/T14576
Embodiment 1
A kind of non-make-up machine fabric, design as follows substantially:
Basic design The yarn kind Arrange ratio Tissue
The table warp 150D-36-CDDTY 3 3/1 twill
Back warp 150D-144-DTY 1 3/1 twill
Weft yarn 150D-72-DTY is high-elastic
This woven fabric adopts through backed weave, 152/inch*72 of grey cloth density root/inch, 208/inch*88 of finished product density root/inch.
In the above-mentioned design, table all adopts the ordinary polyester yarn to interweave through adopting CATION yarn, back warp and weft yarn, adopt cation dyes to dye, because the ordinary polyester yarn dyes on not substantially to cation dyes, finished product sample Bu Biaoli yarn color distortion is obvious.
Introduce the concrete arrangement processing conditions of weaving and dye below
Adopt AJL-DOBBY to weave, filling density wheel 70T
Lax refining: cloth speed 50m/min, 90 ℃ of temperature
Middle typing: cloth speed 50m/min, 180 ℃ of temperature
Liquid flowing dyeing: 125 ℃ of temperature, insulation 25min adopts cation dyes
Arrangement resin: antistatic additive; Softener; Cloth speed 45m/min
Finished product typing: cloth speed 60m/min, 160 ℃ of temperature
Finally make finished product through above processing, the gained finished product has heterochromatic effect through weft yarn, and the knitting effect of reverse side is obvious, and is soft, and elasticity is good, 4 grades of finished product anti-pillings, anti-5 grades of the property of colluding.
Embodiment 2
A kind of non-make-up machine fabric, design as follows substantially:
Basic design The yarn kind Arrange ratio Tissue
The table warp 300D-72-CDDTY 4 5/2 twill
Back warp 100D-38-RAYON 1 Strengthen satin weave
Weft yarn 300D-144-DTY is high-elastic
This woven fabric adopts through backed weave, 102/inch*65 of grey cloth density root/inch, 132/inch*74 of finished product density root/inch.
In the above-mentioned design, table adopts the long fibre of viscose glue, weft yarn to adopt the ordinary polyester yarn to interweave through adopting CATION yarn, back warp, adopt cation dyes and REACTIVE DYES to dye, assembled watch the inside color distortion is obvious, the long fibre of viscose glue is done back warp, wear next to the skin the effect of moisture absorption heat release, allow the wearer feel to feel nice and cool, comfortable.
Introduce the concrete arrangement processing conditions of weaving and dye below:
Adopt AJL-DOBBY to weave, filling density wheel 70T
Lax refining: cloth speed 50m/min, 90 ℃ of temperature
Middle typing: cloth speed 50m/min, 180 ℃ of temperature
Liquid flowing dyeing: 110 ℃ of temperature, insulation 30min adopts cation dyes and REACTIVE DYES
Arrangement resin: antistatic additive; Softener; Cloth speed 45m/min
Finished product typing: cloth speed 60m/min, 160 ℃ of temperature
Finally make finished product through above processing, the gained finished product has heterochromatic effect through weft yarn, and the knitting effect of reverse side is obvious, and is soft, and elasticity is good, 4 grades of finished product anti-pillings, anti-5 grades of the property of colluding.
Embodiment 3
A kind of non-make-up machine fabric, design as follows substantially:
This woven fabric adopts filling-backed weave, 125/inch*145 of grey cloth density root/inch, 145/inch*160 of finished product density root/inch.
In the above-mentioned design, warp thread adopts the ordinary polyester yarn, the table weft yarn adopts the high-elastic yarn of ordinary polyester, and the back weft yarn adopts copper ammonia fibre, adopts DISPERSE DYES and REACTIVE DYES to dye, assembled watch the inside color distortion is obvious, select copper ammonia fibre to do the back weft yarn, its good hygroscopicity has the sense of dangling, wearability approaches silk, meets the trend of environmental protection dress ornament.
Introduce the concrete arrangement processing conditions of weaving and dye below:
Adopt AJL-DOBBY to weave, filling density wheel 143T
Lax refining: cloth speed 50m/min, 90 ℃ of temperature
Middle typing: cloth speed 50m/min, 180 ℃ of temperature
Liquid flowing dyeing: adopt two bath methods to dye, 130 ℃ of temperature, insulation 20min adopts DISPERSE DYES that terylene is dyeed; 90 ℃ of temperature, insulation 15min adopts REACTIVE DYES that copper ammonia fibre is dyeed
Arrangement resin: antistatic additive, softener, water repellent; Cloth speed 45m/min
Finished product typing: cloth speed 60m/min, 160 ℃ of temperature
Finally make finished product through above processing, the gained finished product has heterochromatic effect through weft yarn, the multi-arm small jacquard tissue that reverse side adopts, structure flower type novelty, similar knitted net ocular tissue, reverse side has nice and cool silk-like feeling, in the arrangement process, add water repellent, the finished product WATER REPELLENCY reaches 5 grades, 4 grades of finished product anti-pillings, anti-5 grades of the property of colluding.
Embodiment 4
A kind of non-make-up machine fabric, design as follows substantially:
Basic design The yarn kind Arrange ratio Tissue
The table warp The 21S/2 strand 3 Fly satin weave for 5 piece 2
Back warp 150D-288-DTY 1 2/3 twill
Weft yarn 150D-68-NYFDY
This woven fabric adopts through backed weave, 120/inch*70 of grey cloth density root/inch, 130/inch*75 of finished product density root/inch.
In the above-mentioned design, the table back warp is the dyed yarn that cheese yarn dyeing makes, and table is through being black, and back warp is light blue; Weft yarn does not dye.
Introduce the concrete arrangement processing conditions of weaving and dye below
AJL-DOBBY weaves, filling density wheel 68T
Washing: cloth speed 300m/min
Finished product typing: cloth speed 60m/min, 160 ℃ of temperature
Finally make finished product through above processing, the gained finished product has heterochromatic effect through weft yarn, and reverse side has knitting style, 4 grades of anti-pillings, anti-5 grades of the property of colluding.
Embodiment 5
A kind of non-make-up machine fabric, design as follows substantially:
Basic design The yarn kind Arrange ratio Tissue
The table warp 140D-48-NY6FDY 6 52/11 diversified twill
Back warp 100D-36*8-divides fine yarn 1 Become then satin weave
Weft yarn 75D-36-DTY is high-elastic
This woven fabric adopts through backed weave, 185/inch*100 of grey cloth density root/inch, 242/inch*120 of finished product density root/inch.
In the above-mentioned design, table is through adopting polyamide fibre 6 yarns, and back warp adopts terylene to divide fine yarn, and weft yarn adopts the high-elastic yarn of ordinary polyester, divides fine yarn through opening fibre, and monofilament separately makes yarn soft more fine and smooth fluffy.
Introduce the concrete arrangement processing conditions of weaving and dye below
Adopt AJL-DOBBY to weave, filling density wheel 143T
Lax refining: cloth speed 50m/min, 90 ℃ of temperature
Middle typing: cloth speed 50m/min, 180 ℃ of temperature
Liquid stream is opened fibre: 120 ℃ of temperature, temperature retention time 20 minutes
Liquid flowing dyeing: 100 ℃ of temperature, temperature retention time 30min, ACID DYES
Arrangement resin: antistatic additive, softener, water repellent; Cloth speed 45m/min
Finished product typing: cloth speed 60m/min, 160 ℃ of temperature
Finally make finished product through above processing, the gained finished product has heterochromatic effect through weft yarn, and reverse side has knitting style, 5 grades of WATER REPELLENCY, 4 grades of anti-pillings, anti-5 grades of the property of colluding.

Claims (8)

1. non-make-up machine fabric, it is characterized in that: this fabric is made of through weft yarn heterochromatic, employing table organization is the alternative construction of plain weave, twill, satin weave or above-mentioned tissue, in be organized as the backed weave of twill, satin weave, satin weave alternative construction or multi-arm small jacquard tissue, table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 2~8: 1.
2. according to the described non-make-up machine fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that: described heterochromatic heterochromatic yarn after weft yarn is meant dyed yarn or piece dyeing finishing.
3. according to the described non-make-up machine fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that: the table organization of this fabric is plain weave or its alternative construction, and the lining is organized as twill or multi-arm small jacquard tissue, and table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 2~5: 1.
4. according to the described non-make-up machine fabric of claim 3, it is characterized in that: this fabric is a filling-backed weave, and wherein table organization is plain weave or its alternative construction, and the lining is organized as multi-arm small jacquard tissue.
5. according to the described non-make-up machine fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that: the table organization of this fabric is twill or its alternative construction, and the lining is organized as satin weave or its alternative construction, and table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 2~6: 1.
6. according to the described non-make-up machine fabric of claim 5, it is characterized in that: this fabric is through backed weave.
7. according to the described non-make-up machine fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that: the table organization of this fabric is satin weave or its alternative construction, and the lining is organized as twill or its alternative construction, and table back warp weft yarn arrangement ratio is 3~8: 1.
8. according to the described non-make-up machine fabric of claim 7, it is characterized in that: this fabric is that wherein table organization is satin weave or its alternative construction through backed weave, and the lining is organized as twill-weave.
CN2009102611935A 2009-12-21 2009-12-21 Non-lining woven fabric Pending CN102102257A (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN2009102611935A CN102102257A (en) 2009-12-21 2009-12-21 Non-lining woven fabric

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105463661A (en) * 2014-08-20 2016-04-06 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Double-faced fabric
CN105937079A (en) * 2016-05-31 2016-09-14 安徽省冠盛纺织科技有限公司 Weaving method of weave structure simulating knitted fabric appearance
CN110359167A (en) * 2018-08-30 2019-10-22 广州天思品汇实业有限公司 A kind of elastic fabric
CN112095203A (en) * 2020-08-15 2020-12-18 晋江万兴隆染织实业有限公司 Single-sided moisture-conducting polyester-polypropylene fabric and preparation process thereof
CN114481404A (en) * 2022-01-27 2022-05-13 晋江市远大服装织造有限公司 Degradable polyester yarn-dyed fabric and weaving method thereof

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN2538817Y (en) * 2002-02-04 2003-03-05 沈干 Weft backed cloth

Patent Citations (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN2538817Y (en) * 2002-02-04 2003-03-05 沈干 Weft backed cloth

Non-Patent Citations (4)

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Title
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李群: "经二重组织织物的设计与生产要点", 《棉纺织技术》 *
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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105463661A (en) * 2014-08-20 2016-04-06 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Double-faced fabric
CN105463661B (en) * 2014-08-20 2018-03-16 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 A kind of reversible cloth
CN105937079A (en) * 2016-05-31 2016-09-14 安徽省冠盛纺织科技有限公司 Weaving method of weave structure simulating knitted fabric appearance
CN110359167A (en) * 2018-08-30 2019-10-22 广州天思品汇实业有限公司 A kind of elastic fabric
CN112095203A (en) * 2020-08-15 2020-12-18 晋江万兴隆染织实业有限公司 Single-sided moisture-conducting polyester-polypropylene fabric and preparation process thereof
CN114481404A (en) * 2022-01-27 2022-05-13 晋江市远大服装织造有限公司 Degradable polyester yarn-dyed fabric and weaving method thereof

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Application publication date: 20110622