[summary of the invention]
The objective of the invention is to overcome the deficiency of existing fabric design and process technology, the dyeing and finishing technology of a kind of PTT long filament/short fiber single thread composite yarn lining is provided.
The objective of the invention is to realize by following scheme:
A kind of PTT long filament/short fiber single thread composite yarn shell-fabric dyeing and finishing process, the heat treatment that comprises the following steps: at least to singe, scouring and bleaching, washing, drying and forewarm typing, dyeing, oven dry HEAT SETTING, check, clot packing; It is characterized in that:
In the described heat treatment of scouringing and bleaching, its concrete technical recipe is:
Move back, boil, bleaching-bathing method technology preparation (g/L):
NaOH 1-4
H
2O
2 2-6
H
2O
2Stabilizing agent 0.5-1.2
Penetrating agent JFC 1-3
Detergent 209 1-2.4
Temperature: 100 ℃
Time: 20-35
In described drying and forewarm typing, adopt squezzing to handle damp and hot pre-setting, guarantee the planarization of dimensional stability for fabric, cloth cover, technology is: 160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretching 0-6%;
In described dyeing, wherein, PTT dyeing: adopt DISPERSE DYES, temperature is 110 ℃-130 ℃, dyeing back reduction cleaning, and the DISPERSE DYES prescription is:
Levelling agent: 1-3g/l
Chelated dispersants: 1-2.6g/l
Sodium acetate: 2-5g/l
HAc pH?4.5~5
The prescription of reduction cleaning:
Na
2CO
3: 2-4g/l
Sodium hydrosulfite: 1-3g/l
The technology of reduction cleaning is: add Na at normal temperatures
2CO
3, heating up again, the powder that takes a policy in the time of 80 ℃ is warmed up to constant temperature 20min in the time of 100 ℃, and cool to room temperature is washed again;
Dye for sky silk or mercerized cotton: adopt REACTIVE DYES, temperature is 60 ℃, need soap after the dyeing;
The dyeing prescription is:
Glauber salt: 55-66g/l
Na
2CO
3: 14-25g/l
The prescription of soaping is: soaping agent 1.5g/l;
The technology of soaping is: normal temperature adds soaping agent down again, is warmed up to 90 ℃, constant temperature 20min, and cool to room temperature is washed again;
In described oven dry HEAT SETTING, through the pre-HEAT SETTING of front, the thermal contraction of dyeing back fabric is very little, the purpose of typing is to keep dimensional stability for fabric, consolidates the effect of pre-HEAT SETTING, and its technology is: 160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretches 0~6%;
In described enzyme is handled, select to handle the fibrillation of removing the sky silk to containing day silk fabrics with enzyme, improve the fineness of fabric face; Enzyme is handled concrete technological parameter:
Temperature: 45-54 ℃
PH value: 4.5
Enzyme dosage: 2-6g/L
Time: 30min
Compared with prior art, good effect of the present invention is:
With PTT long filament and day wire short fiber yarn or mercerized cotton silvalin, compound by coating or network mode, and take into full account the dyeing and finishing processing characteristics of various tencels, particularly with the fabric design scheme and weave parameter and select to combine in the damp and hot contraction of dyeing and finishing processing and the variation in the stretching HEAT SETTING, make design and the tencel composite material produced has function admirable, style novelty, takes comfortable characteristics with fabric.
[specific embodiment]
The dyeing and finishing technology of a kind of PTT long filament of the present invention/short fiber single thread composite yarn lining below is provided.
At first, in described raw material was prepared, used warp thread 8-15 * 2tex G100 TENCEL YARNS, used weft yarn selected 50-100dtex PTT DTY long filament and day a silk single thread or a mercerized cotton single thread composite yarn for use.
Wherein, described single thread is sky silk single thread (each 50%) or the mercerized cotton single thread of 8-15tex A100 and G100; Described composite yarn is that sky silk single thread (each 50%) or the 8-15tex mercerized cotton single thread of 50-100dtex PTT DTY long filament and 8-15tex A100 and G100 is composited by the hollow ingot coating, or is formed by sky silk single thread (each 50%) or the Split Down of 8-15tex mercerized cotton single thread network of 50-100dtex PTT DTY long filament and 8-15tex A100 and G100.
In described weaving, weave with
(on 84 times) latitude is heavily flat to be basic organization, is the simple vertically cord weave of fixed tissue with plain weave;
In described fabric design and weave during parameter selects, should be able to make fabric in the damp and hot contraction of dyeing and finishing processing and the variation in the stretching HEAT SETTING in following scope: with filling density is that PTT long filament/sky silk short fiber single thread coating composite weft fabric of 354/10cm is an example, pre-treatment makes grain cross shrink 0-22% under 100 ℃ of conditions, through close variation 411-524 (root/10cm), elastic recovery rate changes 55.5%-70.0%, ultimate strength changes 438N-440N, and elongation at break changes 19.05%-35.30%; Under 160 ℃ of conditions to grain cross stretching HEAT SETTING, extensibility 2% ~ 6% o'clock, (root/10cm), elastic recovery rate changes 72.5%-75.0%, and ultimate strength changes 498N-496N, and elongation at break changes 34.80%-30.80% through close variation 517-488.
Embodiment 1
Textile combination: warp thread: 9.8 * 2tex G100 TENCEL YARNS, weft yarn: silk single thread hollow ingot coated composite yarn in 83.3dtex PTT DTY long filament and 9.8tex A100/G100 (50/50) day;
Dyeing and finishing technology:
(1) refining and bleaching humid heat treatment:
The refining of long filament/short fiber composite yarn lining mainly is to remove impurity such as slurry on the fabric, greasy dirt.
Concrete technology is as follows:
(2) move back, boil, bleaching-bathing method technology preparation (g/L):
NaOH 2
H
2O
2 3
H
2O
2Stabilizing agent 1
Penetrating agent JFC 2
Detergent 209 2
Temperature: 100 ℃
Time: 30min
(2) pre-HEAT SETTING: adopt squezzing to handle damp and hot pre-setting, guarantee the planarization of dimensional stability for fabric, cloth cover, technology is; 160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretching 0-6%.
(3) dyeing:
A.PTT dyeing:
Adopt DISPERSE DYES, temperature is 110 ℃-120 ℃, dyeing back reduction cleaning.
Prescription:
Dyestuff: 2-3%
Levelling agent: 1g/l
Chelated dispersants: 1g/l
Sodium acetate: 3g/l
HAc(pH?4.5-5)
Reduction cleaning prescription and technology:
Na
2CO
3:3g/l
Sodium hydrosulfite: 2g/l
B: day silk dyeing:
Adopt REACTIVE DYES, temperature is 60 ℃, need soap after the dyeing.
The dyeing prescription:
Dyestuff 1-3%
Glauber salt: 60g/l
Na
2CO
3:20g/l
Soap:
Prescription: soaping agent 1.5g/l
(4) enzyme is handled
Select to handle the fibrillation of removing the sky silk to containing day silk fabrics, improve the fineness of fabric face with enzyme.
Enzyme treatment process:
Temperature: 50 ℃
PH value: 4.5
Enzyme dosage: 5g/L
Time: 30min
(5) HEAT SETTING:
Through the pre-HEAT SETTING of front, the thermal contraction of dyeing back fabric is very little, and the purpose of typing is to keep dimensional stability for fabric, consolidates the effect of pre-HEAT SETTING.
160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretching 0-6%.
Embodiment 2
The textile combination: warp thread 9.8 * 2tex G100 TENCEL YARNS, weft yarn 83.3dtex PTT DTY long filament and 9.8tex mercerized cotton single thread hollow ingot coat composite yarn
Dyeing and finishing technology:
(1) refining and bleaching humid heat treatment:
The refining of long filament/short fiber composite yarn lining mainly is to remove impurity such as slurry on the fabric, greasy dirt.
Concrete technology is as follows:
(2) move back, boil, bleaching-bathing method technology preparation (g/L):
NaOH 2
H
2O
2 3
H
2O
2Stabilizing agent 1
Penetrating agent JFC 2
Detergent 209 2
Temperature: 100 ℃
Time: 30min
(2) pre-HEAT SETTING: adopt squezzing to handle damp and hot pre-setting, guarantee the planarization of dimensional stability for fabric, cloth cover, technology is; 160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretching 0-6%.
(3) dyeing:
A.PTT dyeing:
Adopt DISPERSE DYES, temperature is 110 ℃-130 ℃, dyeing back reduction cleaning.
Prescription:
Dyestuff: 1-3%
Levelling agent: 1g/l
Chelated dispersants: 1g/l
Sodium acetate: 3g/l
HAc(pH?4.5-5)
Reduction cleaning prescription and technology:
Na
2CO
3:3g/l
Sodium hydrosulfite: 2g/l
B: mercerized cotton dyeing:
Adopt REACTIVE DYES, temperature is 60 ℃, need soap after the dyeing.
The dyeing prescription:
Dyestuff 1-3%
Glauber salt: 60g/l
Na
2CO
3:20g/l
Soap:
Prescription: soaping agent 1.5g/l
(4) HEAT SETTING:
Through the pre-HEAT SETTING of front, the thermal contraction of dyeing back fabric is very little, and the purpose of typing is to keep dimensional stability for fabric, consolidates the effect of pre-HEAT SETTING.
160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretching 0-6%.
Embodiment 3
The dyeing and finishing technology of a kind of PTT long filament/network combined shute fabrics of sky silk short fiber single thread
Material combination: warp thread: 9.8 * 2tex G100 TENCEL YARNS, weft yarn: 83.3dtex PTT DTY long filament and 9.8texA100/G100 (50/50) day network combined yarn of silk single thread;
Dyeing and finishing technology:
(1) refining and bleaching humid heat treatment:
The refining of long filament/short fiber composite yarn lining mainly is to remove impurity such as slurry on the fabric, greasy dirt.
Concrete technology is as follows:
(2) move back, boil, bleaching-bathing method technology preparation (g/L):
NaOH 2
H
2O
2 3
H
2O
2Stabilizing agent 1
Penetrating agent JFC 2
Detergent 209 2
Temperature: 100 ℃
Time: 30min
(2) pre-HEAT SETTING: adopt squezzing to handle damp and hot pre-setting, guarantee the planarization of dimensional stability for fabric, cloth cover, technology is; 160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretches 3.8%.
(3) dyeing:
A.PTT dyeing:
Adopt DISPERSE DYES, temperature is 110 ℃-130 ℃, dyeing back reduction cleaning.
Prescription:
Dyestuff: 1-3%
Levelling agent: 1g/l
Chelated dispersants: 1g/l
Sodium acetate: 3g/l
HAc(pH?4.5-5)
Reduction cleaning prescription and technology:
Na
2CO
3:3g/l
Sodium hydrosulfite: 2g/l
B: day silk dyeing:
Adopt REACTIVE DYES, temperature is 60 ℃, need soap after the dyeing.
The dyeing prescription:
Dyestuff 1-3%
Glauber salt: 60g/l
Na
2CO
3:20g/l
Soap: soaping agent 1.5g/l, 90 ℃, 20min
(4) enzyme is handled
Select to handle the fibrillation of removing the sky silk to containing day silk fabrics, improve the fineness of fabric face with enzyme.
Enzyme treatment process:
Temperature: 50 ℃
PH value: 4.5
Enzyme dosage: 5g/L
Time: 30min
(5) HEAT SETTING:
Through the pre-HEAT SETTING of front, the thermal contraction of dyeing back fabric is very little, and the purpose of typing is to keep dimensional stability for fabric, consolidates the effect of pre-HEAT SETTING.
160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 35M/min, overfeeding 1%, broadwise stretches 3.8%.