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CN101991510B - Cosmetic composition containing alkylene oxide derivants - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition containing alkylene oxide derivants Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101991510B
CN101991510B CN 201010285877 CN201010285877A CN101991510B CN 101991510 B CN101991510 B CN 101991510B CN 201010285877 CN201010285877 CN 201010285877 CN 201010285877 A CN201010285877 A CN 201010285877A CN 101991510 B CN101991510 B CN 101991510B
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acid
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CN101991510A (en
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P·皮埃尔
V·德波伊
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing alkylene oxide derivants, concretely relates to a composition used for localized application containing thickening agents and especial alkylene oxide derivants.

Description

Contain by the cosmetic composition of the derivant of oxygen alkylene
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind ofly comprise thickening agent and by the compositions of the derivant of oxygen alkylene.
Background technology
For the relevant multiple reason of more comfortableness (softness, emollescence etc.) special and application, current cosmetic composition comprises a water and one or more oil, and be oil-in-water (O/W) type Emulsion for example, disperse continuous phase and oiliness to be disperseed discontinuous phase and surfactant to form together by aqueous.
In cosmetics, these compositionss are studied especially, because in fact it contains the water as the foreign minister, this must be when being used for skin, give that compositions is more pure and fresh than W/O Emulsion, greasy still less and lighter sensation.
For these compositionss of thickening and give the viscosity of its hope, thickening agent or gel have been used.Yet, introducing gel (particularly based on AMPS polymer) can cause forming solid residue on skin during being administered to skin and after the volatile compound evaporation of compositions, this is also referred to as " peeling " phenomenon, thus worry when causing on spreading upon skin and ugly effect.
Therefore, need the compositions of preparation gel quality, comprise the Emulsion form of water and oil, particularly oil-in-water (O/W) type, it has good cosmetic characteristic, satisfied outward appearance and not peeling off on being administered to skin the time.
The applicant finds surprisingly, uses special can being addressed that need by the derivant of oxygen alkylene in the compositions that comprises gel or thickening agent.
Summary of the invention
Therefore, the present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition of Emulsion form of oil-in-water type, comprise oil phase and water, be characterised in that it comprises:
-at least a thickening agent,
-with respect to composition total weight, at least a oil of at least 3% weight; With
-at least a following formula (I) by the derivant of oxygen alkylene:
Z-{O(AO) l(EO) m-(BO) nH} a (I)
Wherein:
Z represents to remove the group that one or more hydroxyl obtains from the chemical compound that comprises 3-9 hydroxyl;
AO represent to comprise 3-4 carbon atom by the group of oxy alkyleneization;
EO represents oxyethylene group group;
BO represents to comprise the oxy alkylene group of 4 carbon atoms;
The scope of a is 3-9;
L, m and n represent AO, EO and the unitary average mol of BO respectively, and 1≤l≤50,1≤m≤50 and 0.5≤n≤5;
The weight ratio of AO and EO (AO/EO) scope is 1/5-5/1.
Be intended for use local application according to compositions of the present invention, that is to say, external application is to keratin material, and it is skin, scalp, fingernail, mucosa and keratin fiber particularly, for example eyelashes, eyebrow and hair.
Comprise physiologically acceptable medium according to compositions of the present invention, that is to say, this medium is fit to keratin material.
Have the advantage of gratifying innocuousness and good cosmetic properties according to compositions of the present invention, that is to say, quality evenly and pleasant on using, skin effect phenomenon is limited.In addition, above-mentioned formula (I) can be provided/improve the skin wet performance by the derivant of oxygen alkylene.
Is gel form according to compositions of the present invention 25 ℃ the time, and the viscosity that can have 130mPa.s-18.9Pa.s, preferred 328mPa.s-14.2Pa.s, viscosity is measured with Rheomat 180 (Lamy), it has assembled MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 axle, selects according to the concentration of the compositions of rotating at the 200rpm rotating speed.
Another theme of the present invention is the method that is used for the keratin material cosmetic treatment, is characterised in that cosmetic composition as described above is administered on the keratin material.
According to the another one aspect, a theme of the present invention is that formula (I) is used to reduce and/or limits described compositions at the skin effect phenomenon that uses on the skin by the application of the derivant of oxygen alkylene in the compositions that comprises at least 3% at least a oil and at least a gel as defined above.
The specific embodiment
Gel
In according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, the total solid content of gel can be at the 0.05%-15% weight range, preferred 0.1%-10% weight, more preferably 0.2%-7% weight, also 0.5%-5% weight more preferably.
According to an embodiment, total solid content according to the gel of compositions of the present invention, gross weight with respect to compositions, be greater than or equal to 0.3% weight, be preferably greater than or equal 0.4% weight, more preferably be greater than or equal to 0.5% weight, more preferably greater than or equal 0.6% weight.
Gel (perhaps thickening agent) can be selected from especially:
1) acrylate homopolymer or copolymer preferably are crosslinked, and salt, and for example Noveon is with title Carbopol (INCI title: product sold carbomer); Can mention trade name: Carbopol 910,934,940,941 and 934P especially.
In according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, the range of solid content of these polymer is a 0.1-1% weight.
2) acrylate base co-polymer, it is derived from least a C 3-C 6Monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer or its anhydride and the monomeric polymerization of at least a acrylic acid fat chain ester.These copolymers can be chosen wantonly and be crosslinked.
Preferred carboxylic acid monomer is selected from corresponding to formula: CH 2Those of=CR-COOH, wherein R represents hydrogen, halogen, hydroxyl, lactone group, lactam group, cyano group (CN), monovalent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, aralkyl or cycloaliphatic groups.Particularly preferred carboxylic monomer is selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic anhydride and composition thereof.
The aliphatic chain acrylate monomer is preferably selected from corresponding to formula: CH 2-CR 1-COOR 2Those, R wherein 1Be selected from the group of forming by hydrogen, methyl and ethyl, R 2Be C 8-C 30Alkyl, C 8-C 30Oxy alkylene or carbonyl (C 8-C 30Oxy alkylene).Particularly preferred ester monomer is R wherein 1Be those of hydrogen or methyl, and/or R wherein 2Be C 10-C 22Those of alkyl.What can mention especially is the acrylate and the methacrylate of decyl, lauryl, stearyl, Shan Yu base or myricyl.
In these copolymers some are described in application EP-A-0268164 especially, and obtain according to the preparation method of describing in the document.
Especially especially the polymer that can mention contains the acrylate or the methacrylate monomer of decyl, lauryl, stearyl, Shan Yu base or myricyl, the more particularly acrylate of stearyl and methacrylate, especially by the copolymer of Noveon with title Pemulen or Carbopol sale, for example acrylate/(C 10-C 30) alkyl acrylate copolymer product, for example Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2 or Carbopol 1382 (CTFA title: acrylate/C 10-30Alkyl acrylate copolymer).
3) polyacrylate
These particularly be crosslinked and polymer that be neutralized, the form of non-microgranule.
Advantageously, particular certain cancers.
Can mention the polymer that for example has INCI title sodium polyacrylate, for example:
-Cosmedia
Figure BSA00000275589900041
The crosslinked sodium polyacrylate that perhaps contains 90% solid and 10% water, Cosmedia
Figure BSA00000275589900042
Perhaps as the sodium polyacrylate that contains the reversed-phase emulsion of 60% active solid, oil (hydrogenant poly decene) and surfactant (PPG-5 Laurel ether-5), both sell by Cognis; With
-part sodium polyacrylate that be neutralized, crosslinked, it is the reversed-phase emulsion form that contains at least a polar oil, for example, by BASF with title
Figure BSA00000275589900043
EM sells.
Can be used for according to the polyacrylate amount in the compositions of the present invention, is 0.1-3% weight as solid with respect to the scope of the gross weight of compositions, more preferably 0.1-2% weight.
4) 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer and copolymer, it is chosen wantonly and is crosslinked and/or is neutralized, and is selected from:
A) poly-(2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid) polymer, particularly homopolymer, poly-AMPS, its be crosslinked and be neutralized at least 90%.Usually it is characterized in that comprising random:
I) following formula (1) unit of 90-99.9% weight:
Figure BSA00000275589900044
X wherein +Expression cation or cation mixt, maximum 10% mole X +Cation can be the hydrogen proton; With
The ii) crosslink unit of 0.01-10% weight, from least a monomer, this monomer has at least two olefinic double bonds;
Percentage by weight defines based on total polymer weight.
These polymer preferably comprise formula (1) unit of 98-99.5% weight and the crosslink unit of 0.2-2% weight.
X +Cation is represented cation or cation mixt, is selected from proton, alkali metal cation especially, is equivalent to the cation or the ammonium ion of alkaline-earth metal.Preferred X +Cation is NH 4 +Cation.More particularly, the cation of 90-100% mole is NH 4 +Cation and 0-10% mole are proton (H +).
Have at least two olefinic double bond cross-linking monomers and be selected from for example dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, Polyethylene Glycol diallyl ether, 2,2'-ethylenedioxybis(ethanol). divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyl-oxygen acetyl (oxethanoyl) or other polyfunctional alcohol's pi-allyl or vinyl ethers, Aronix M 240, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane allyl ether, methylene-bisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.
Cross-linking monomer with at least two olefinic double bonds more preferably is selected from corresponding to those of following general formula (2):
Figure BSA00000275589900051
R wherein 1Expression hydrogen atom or C 1-C 4Alkyl and more preferably methyl (trimethylolpropane triacrylate).
As this base polymer, can mention especially being crosslinked and neutral 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer, by Clariant with trade name
Figure BSA00000275589900052
AMPS (CTFA title: ammonium polyacrylamide dimethyl methyl amide) sell.
B) acrylamide/AMPS copolymer, the anion that particularly is crosslinked acrylamide/AMPS copolymer.
These copolymers can be crosslinked by the polyene ethylenically unsaturated compounds especially, and for example those are selected from the group of being made up of tetraene propoxyl group ethane, pi-allyl tetramethylolmethane, methylene-bisacrylamide, allyl sucrose and tetramethylolmethane.The preferred di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide acrylic amide that uses some or all ofly is neutralized the agent neutralization, and nertralizer is sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide or amine for example, for example triethanolamine.
The concentration that preferred described polyene ethylenically unsaturated compounds exists in copolymer is every mole of monomer mixture 0.06-1mmol.
First-selected copolymer is the 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid by 15-85mol% acrylamide and 15-85mol%, the acrylamide of 30-70mol% and 30-70mol%2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid and be that 55-70mol% acrylamide and 30-45mol%2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid copolymerization obtain better particularly.
And, 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid can be normally for example by sodium hydroxide, for example triethanolamine or its mixture to small part are neutralized into the form of salt by potassium hydroxide or by low-molecular-weight amine.
Useful gel can also be selected from crosslinked anion acrylamide/2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer.
Useful especially in its instrument in the context of the present invention of crosslinked copolymers is to sell (CTFA title: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/lauryl polyoxyethylene (7) ether) by Seppic with title Sepigel 305; The product Simulgel 600 that also can mention (CTFA title: acrylamide/acryloyldimethyl uric acid sodium/2-Methylpentadecane/poly-sorbitol ester 80) sell by Seppic.
C) it comprises derived from the 2-acrylamido that comprises at least a hydrophobic group-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) copolymer crosslinked or non-crosslinking:
I) the 2-acrylamido of the following formula of 80-99mol% (3)-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) unit:
Figure BSA00000275589900061
X wherein +Be proton, alkali metal cation, alkaline earth metal cation or ammonium ion; When X represents alkaline earth metal cation, itself and 2 SO 3Group is shared 2 positive charges; With
The ii) unit of 1-20mol%, the preferred following formula of 1-15mol% (3a):
Wherein n and p represent molal quantity independently of each other, change at 0-30, preferred 1-20, and condition is that n+p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25, is less than 20 better;
R 1The C of expression hydrogen atom, straight chain or side chain 1-C 6Alkyl (preferable methyl) and R 3Expression comprises the straight chain of m carbon atom or the alkyl of side chain, and m carbon atom is 6-30, preferred 10-25 carbon atom.
These polymer are preferably partly or wholly by inorganic base or organic base neutralization, inorganic base for example is sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, and organic base for example is basic amino acid of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, amino-methyl-propanediol, N-methylglucosamine, for example arginine and lysine and composition thereof.
When polymer when being crosslinked, cross-linking agent can be selected from the polyene-based unsaturated compound, and it is usually used in by the Raolical polymerizable cross linked polymer.
Can mention for example divinylbenzene as cross-linking agent, diallyl ether, the dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, the Polyethylene Glycol diallyl ether, the triethylene glycol divinyl ether, the hydroquinone diallyl ether, two (methyl) acrylic acid glycol ester or two (methyl) acrylic acid tetraethylene glycol (TEG) ester, trimethyol propane triacrylate, methylene-bisacrylamide, the di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide Methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, maleic acid diallyl ester, the tetraallyl ethylenediamine, tetraallyl oxygen base ethane, trimethylolpropane allyl ether, (methyl) acrylic acid allyl ester, allyl ether from the alcohol of sugar system, the perhaps allyl ether of other functional alcohol or vinyl Ether, also have phosphoric acid and/or vinyl phosphoric acid the allyl ether derivant, the perhaps mixture of these chemical compounds.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, cross-linking agent is selected from methylene-bisacrylamide, Allyl methacrylate or trimethyol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).Degree of cross linking scope is normally with respect to polymer 0.01-10mol%, more preferably 0.2-2mol%.
Be by 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) or its sodium salt or ammonium salt and (methyl) acrylic acid and comprise the C of oxyethylation of the group of 6-25 oxyethylation according to what the polymer derived from AMPS of compositions of the present invention can be mentioned as can be used for 10-C 20The ester of alcohol, the polymer of preparation.
What can mention especially is polymer by the preparation of the ester of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) or its sodium salt or ammonium salt and (methyl) acrylic acid and following alcohol:
The C of-usefulness 8mol oxirane oxyethylation 10-C 18Alcohol (from the Genapol C-080 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 8mol oxirane oxyethylation 11Oxo alcohol (from the GenapolUD-080 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 7mol oxirane oxyethylation 11Oxo alcohol (oxo alcohol) (from the Genapol UD-070 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 7mol oxirane oxyethylation 12-C 14Alcohol (from the Genapol LA-070 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 9mol oxirane oxyethylation 12-C 14Alcohol (from the Genapol LA-090 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 11mol oxirane oxyethylation 12-C 14Alcohol (from the GenapolLA-110 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 8mol oxirane oxyethylation 16-C 18Alcohol (from the Genapol T-080 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 11mol oxirane oxyethylation 16-C 18Alcohol (from the Genapol T-110 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 15mol oxirane oxyethylation 16-C 18Alcohol (from the Genapol T-150 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 20mol oxirane oxyethylation 16-C 18Alcohol (from the Genapol T-200 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 25mol oxirane oxyethylation 16-C 18Alcohol (from the Genapol T-250 of Clariant);
The C of-usefulness 25mol oxirane oxyethylation 18-C 22Alcohol; With
The different C of-usefulness 25mol oxirane oxyethylation 16-C 18Alcohol.
According to an embodiment, the AMPS-derived polymers is AMPS and the C that comprises the group of 6-25 oxyethylation 16-C 18The copolymer of methacrylate of alcohol comprises the C of the group of 6-25 oxyethylation 16-C 18The methacrylate of alcohol is by methacrylic acid or methacrylate with the C of 6-25mol oxirane oxyethylation 16-C 18Alcohol obtains.Amphiphilic polymers can also be AMPS and the C that comprises the group of 6-25 oxyethylation 12-C 14The copolymer of methacrylate of alcohol comprises the C of the group of 6-25 oxyethylation 12-C 14The methacrylate of alcohol is by methacrylic acid or methacrylate with the C of 6-25mol oxirane oxyethylation 12-C 14Alcohol obtains.
That can mention especially has:
-noncrosslinking copolymer is comprised the C of the group of 8 oxyethylations by 92.65mol%AMPS and 7.35mol% 16-C 18The methacrylate (Genapol T-080) of alcohol obtains, and is for example sold with title AristoflexSNC by Clariant;
-noncrosslinking copolymer is comprised the C of the group of 7 oxyethylations by 91.5mol%AMPS and 8.5mol% 12-C 14The methacrylate (Genapol LA-070) of alcohol obtains, and is for example sold with title Aristoflex LNC by Clariant;
And composition thereof.
As such crosslinked AMPS polymer, what especially can mention is with (25EO) methacrylic acid stearyl copolymer of the crosslinked AMPS/ oxyethylation of title Aristoflex HMS sale or by (25EO) methacrylic acid Shan Yu base ester copolymer of Clariant with the crosslinked AMPS/ oxyethylation of title Aristoflex HMB sale by Clariant.Can also use these mixture of polymers.
In according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, AMPS polymer and copolymer are as solid consumption, and scope is a 0.1-5% weight, more preferably 0.1-4% weight.
5) different types of polysaccharide (heterogeneous polyosides)
According to the present invention, but term " different types of polysaccharide " meaning is by different sugar or has identical empirical formula the polymer that constitutes jointly of the sugar (for example D and L isomer) of different geometries.
These polymer are different from by one or more sugar and a non-carbohydrate heteropolysaccharide (polyheteroside) that partly constitutes and the single polysaccharide that is obtained by uniting of identical sugar.
Therefore, only constitute by sugar according to different types of polysaccharide of the present invention, and by obtaining uniting of at least two kinds of different sugar.
Can constitute by the chemical compound that is commonly referred to oligosaccharide of 2-10 sugar or more than the chemical compound that is commonly referred to polysaccharide (polyholoside) of 10 sugar according to polysaccharide of the present invention.
According to the present invention, the sugar that exists in polysaccharide can be selected from any natural or synthetic source, and it can be imagined especially for example is:
-for example, aldose,
-pentose: for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose,
-hexose: for example, glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose,
-ketose, fructose for example,
-deoxidation ketose, for example rhamnose, 2-desoxy-D-altromethylose, cymarose or oleandrose,
-sugar derivatives, alduronic acid for example, for example mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glucuronic acid, or also have sugar alcohol, for example mannitol or sorbitol.
According to polysaccharide of the present invention can be straight chain or side chain.It also can be substituted, is for example replaced by aliphatic chain, especially contains the aliphatic chain of 8-30 carbon atom.
In addition, can be alginate (polymannuronate ester and guluronic acid esters), for example sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, calcium alginate or alginic acid glyceride according to polysaccharide of the present invention.
Yet different types of polysaccharide preferably comprises at least a fucose unit, and with respect to the solid weight of polysaccharide, content is 10-90% weight, preferred 15-35% weight.
Especially, according to polysaccharide of the present invention can comprise fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid acid unit and, for example, can comprise α-L-fucose, α--the D-galactose and the galacturonic acid of straight chain.In this case, when joining its concentration with about 1% weight in the aqueous solution, it preferably has the viscosity (Brookfield LV31 viscosity 12rpm, 30 ℃) of 800-1200mPa.s.This polysaccharide especially can 1% aqueous solution form with trade name Fucogel 1000 Available from Solabia.
Preferably join in the compositions with the form of aqueous solution according to polysaccharide of the present invention, aqueous solution can contain the polysaccharide of 0.1-5% weight.
In according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, polysaccharide is as more preferably 0.1%-10% weight of solid content range.
6) acrylic acid glyceride polymer
These acrylic acid glyceride polymer are selected from glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer especially.This analog copolymer particularly by Guardian Laboratories with title
Figure BSA00000275589900101
MS,
Figure BSA00000275589900102
CG, DV,
Figure BSA00000275589900104
NP,
Figure BSA00000275589900105
Oil,
Figure BSA00000275589900106
OilBG,
Figure BSA00000275589900107
PF,
Figure BSA00000275589900108
TW,
Figure BSA00000275589900109
WA sells.The preferred use
Figure BSA000002755899001010
MS.
In according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, acrylic acid glyceride copolymer is as solid amount ranges 0.1-10% weight more preferably.
7) polysaccharide (polysaccharide), for example:
-Sargassum extract, for example alginate, carrageenin and agar and composition thereof.The example of the carrageenin that can mention comprises the Satiagum from Degussa
Figure BSA000002755899001011
With
Figure BSA000002755899001012
The alginate that can mention are with title by ISP
Figure BSA000002755899001013
The sodium alginate of selling;
-natural gum, for example xanthan gum, guar gum and non-ionic derivate thereof (hydroxypropyl guar gum), arabic gum, Konjac glucomannan or mannan glue, gum tragacanth, Ficus elastica, karaya or carob gum; The example that can mention comprises by Rhodia with title Jaguar
Figure BSA000002755899001014
The guar gum of selling; Mannan and konjac by the GfN sale
Figure BSA000002755899001015
(1% glucomannan);
-modification or unmodified starch are such as from corn (for example Semen Tritici aestivi, corn or rice), beans (for example white pea), the rhizome (starch and the tapioca that obtain of Rhizoma Solani tuber osi or cassava (cassava) for example; Dextrin, for example corn dextrin; The example that can mention comprises the Remy that is sold by Remy especially
Figure BSA000002755899001016
Rice starch; Corn starch from Roquette
Figure BSA000002755899001017
With the potato starch of the neutral chloro ethamine of sodium hydroxide dipropionic acid modification, by National Starch with title Structrue
Figure BSA000002755899001018
Sell; By National Starch with title Tapioca
Figure BSA000002755899001019
The natural tapioca powder of selling;
-dextrin, for example the name from National Starch is called Extraction from the dextrin of corn;
-cellulose and derivant thereof, particularly alkyl or hydroxy alkyl cellulose; Can mention methylcellulose, hydroxy alkyl cellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose especially.The example that can mention comprises from the Aqualon name and is called Polysurf With Natrosol Plus The cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose;
-and composition thereof.
Is 0.01-0.5% weight as solid with respect to the content range of the gross weight of compositions according to the polysaccharide (polysaccharide) of compositions of the present invention, is more preferably 0.01-0.2% weight.
Preferably use for example natural gum of xanthan gum.
8) modified clay, for example Strese Hofmann's hectorite. (the INCI title: distearyl two Strese Hofmann's hectorite .s) sell with title Bentone 38CE of modification magnesium silicate (from the Bentone gel VS38 of Rheox), the modification of usefulness VARISOFT TA100 by Rheox.
With respect to the gross weight of compositions, clay exists with the activity substance content of 0.05%-10% weight, preferred 0.1%-5% weight.
The mixture that can comprise above-mentioned different gels according to compositions of the present invention.
According to an embodiment, comprise at least a gel according to compositions of the present invention, it is selected from:
-derived from the polymer of AMPS and the copolymer of AMPS, particularly acrylamide/AMPS copolymer, especially aforesaid crosslinked anion acrylamide/AMPS copolymer;
-acrylate-based copolymer, it is derived from least a C 3-C 6The monomeric polyreaction of monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer or its anhydride and at least a acrylic acid fat chain ester, for example mentioned above, and it is optional crosslinked, acrylate/(C particularly 10-C 30) alkyl acrylate copolymer;
-and composition thereof.
According to a special embodiment, comprise at least a first gel and at least a second gel according to compositions of the present invention, described first gel is selected from acrylamide/AMPS copolymer, particularly crosslinked as described above anion acrylamide/AMPS copolymer, described second gel is different from acrylamide/AMPS copolymer, for example be selected from polysaccharide, particularly xanthan gum.
The chemical compound of oxygen alkylene
The derivant that is used for oxygen alkylene of the present invention meets following formula (I):
Z-{O(AO) l(EO) m-(BO) nH} a (I)
Wherein:
Z represents to remove one or the group that obtains of polyhydroxy more from the chemical compound that contains 3-9 hydroxyl;
AO represents to contain the group of the oxygen alkylene of 3-4 carbon atom;
EO represents oxyethylene group;
BO represents to contain the oxy alkylene group of 4 carbon atoms;
The scope of a is 3-9;
L, m and n represent AO, EO and the unitary average mol of BO separately, and 1≤l≤50,1≤m≤50 and 0.5≤n≤5;
The scope of the weight ratio of AO and EO (AO/EO) is 1/5 to 5/1.
In according to compositions of the present invention, can use a kind of derivant of oxygen alkylene or use the mixture of the derivant of identical or different oxygen alkylenes.
In the derivant of the oxygen alkylene of formula (I), Z represents to remove one or the group that obtains of polyhydroxy more from the chemical compound that contains 3-9 hydroxyl, and a represents the hydroxyl value of derivant, and scope is 3-9.
As for example having that the chemical compound that contains 3-9 hydroxyl can be mentioned, under the situation of a=3: glycerol or trimethylolpropane; Under the situation of a=4: erythritol, tetramethylolmethane, sorbitol, alkyl polyglucoside or two glycerol; Under the situation of a=5: xylitol; Under the situation of a=6: dipentaerythritol, sorbitol or inositol; Under the situation of a=8: sucrose or trehalose; Under the situation of a=9: maltose alcohol; Perhaps, the mixture of described chemical compound.
Preferred Z represents to remove the group that one or more hydroxyls obtain from the chemical compound that contains 3-9 hydroxyl, and 3≤a≤6.As the chemical compound that preferably contains 3-9 hydroxyl, that can mention has glycerol or a trimethylolpropane, and glycerol particularly.
When a smaller or equal to 2 the time, the compositions of the chemical compound of oxygen alkylene and for example oil ﹠ fat material fat compatible low between mutually, the stability of mixture affects adversely in the oil-base prescription.
When a more than or equal to 10 the time, observe the influence of being clamminess.
AO represents to contain the group of the oxygen alkylene of 3-4 carbon atom.AO can for example represent oxypropylene, oxygen butylene group (oxygen-n-butene, oxygen isobutene. or oxygen uncle butylene), oxygen trimethylene group, oxygen tetramethylene group or blended group.AO is preferably selected from oxypropylene and/or oxygen butylene group, more preferably is selected from the oxypropylene group.
L represents unitary average mol of AO and 1≤l≤50, preferred 2≤l≤20.
M represents the unitary average mol of EO, and 1≤m≤50, preferred 2≤m≤20.When l equals 0, observe the influence of being clamminess; In addition, when l surpassed 50, the effect that moisturizes of the chemical compound of formula (I) reduced.
And when m equaled 0, the effect that moisturizes reduced, and when m surpasses 50, observed the effect that is clamminess.
The weight ratio of AO and EO (AO/EO) scope is 1/5 to 5/1, preferred 1/4 to 4/1.
When this ratio less than 1/5 the time, observe the effect that is clamminess, when the AO/EO ratio surpassed 5/1, the effect that moisturizes reduced.
The unitary increase order of AO and EO is non-definite, and AO and EO unit can random fashion increase or increase with block form.For the xerodermatic effect of the prevention that is improved, AO and EO preferably increase with random fashion.
BO represents to contain the oxy alkylene group of 4 carbon atoms, can for example be selected from oxygen butylene group (for example oxygen n-butene, oxygen isobutene. and oxygen uncle butylene group), oxygen tetramethylene group and mixing thereof.Preferred BO is selected from oxygen butylene group.
N represents the unitary average mol of BO, and 0.5≤n≤5, and preferred 0.8≤n≤3 are 1≤n≤3 better.
When n less than 0.5, observe the effect that is clamminess.When n surpassed 5, the effect that moisturizes reduced.
In formula (I), (BO) nThe unit need be bonded on the terminal hydrogen atom of derivant of oxygen alkylene.
The derivant of the oxygen alkylene of formula (I) can be by known method preparation, for example by add the alkylene oxide that poly(ethylene oxide) and addition polymerization contain 3-4 carbon atom on the chemical compound that contains 3-9 hydroxyl, then with reacting ethylene oxide.
During carrying out oxirane on the chemical compound that contains 3-9 hydroxyl and containing the addition polymerization of alkylene oxide of 3-4 carbon atom, the mode that oxirane and alkylen groups can be random or be aggregated in the mode of block.
In the derivant of the oxygen alkylene of formula (I), what can mention especially is derivant (polyoxy butylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol) by following formula (II) expression oxygen alkylene:
Gly-[O(PO) s(EO) t-(BO) uH] 3(II)
Wherein,
Gly represents the group by the hydroxyl acquisition that removes glycerol;
PO represents oxypropylene group;
EO represents oxyethylene group;
S and t represent PO and the unitary average mol of EO, the numerical value with 1-50 scope separately;
The unitary weight ratio of PO unit and EO (PO/EO) scope is 1/5 to 5/1;
BO represents to contain the oxy alkylene of 4 carbon atoms; With
U represents the unitary average mol of BO, and scope is 0.5-5.
By expoxy propane and oxirane with expoxy propane and oxirane separately with respect to equivalent addition polymerization on glycerol of glycerol 3-150mol, the alkylene oxide that contains 4 carbon atoms subsequently can obtain the derivant of the oxygen alkylene of above-mentioned formula (II) with the equivalent addition polymerization with respect to glycerol 1.5-15mol
Described alkylene oxide can carry out in the presence of base catalyst, phase transfer catalyst, lewis acid catalyst or suitable thing in the additive reaction on the glycerol.Usually use base catalyst, preferred potassium hydroxide.
In the derivant of formula (I) or oxygen alkylene (II), oxirane and the 3-7mol expoxy propane of preferred 6-10mol add on the glycerol, the derivant that obtains of the epoxy butane of addition 2-4mol subsequently.
As the preferred formula (I) or (II) derivant of oxygen alkylene, what can mention is polyoxy butylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, it is by 8mol oxirane and 5mol expoxy propane and glycerol additive reaction, the epoxy butane of addition 3mol obtains subsequently, and its INCI title is PEG/PPG/ polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerol.PEG/PPG/ polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3-glycerol can be from NOF Corporation with symbol Wilbride S-753 from commercial acquisition.
In according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, the derivant of the oxygen alkylene of formula (I) exists with the amount of 0.1%-20% weight, preferred 0.5%-15% weight and better 1%-10% weight range.
Emulsifying agent
In order to promote the emulsification of oil phase, can advantageously contain one or more surfactants (be different from gelatin polymer and be different from the derivant of oxygen alkylene) according to compositions of the present invention.Surfactant can be selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifying agent, uses separately or uses as mixture.
With respect to composition total weight, the amount of surfactant (as active substance) can be a 0.1-20% weight for example, preferred 0.5-15% weight, more preferably 1%-10% weight.
The emulsifying agent that can mention comprises for example non-ionic surface active agent, the ester of polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid particularly, described fatty acid has saturated or undersaturated chain, contain for example 8-24 carbon atom, be more preferably and contain 12-22 carbon atom, and the derivant of oxygen alkylene, promptly, contain unitary derivant oxyethylation and/or oxypropylation, for example C 8-C 24The derivant of fatty glyceride and oxygen alkylene thereof; C 8-C 24Fatty acid sorbitol ester and oxygen alkylene derivant thereof; C 8-C 24The derivant of fatty acid sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkyl polyglucoside) ester and oxygen alkylene thereof; Fatty alcohol ether; C 8-C 24The sugar ether of aliphatic alcohol, and composition thereof.
As fatty glyceride, can mention especially be tristerin (single-, two and/or glyceryl tristearate) (the CTFA title: tristerin) or castor oil acid glyceride, and composition thereof.
Macrogol ester as fatty acid, that can mention especially has a stearic acid macrogol ester (single, two and/or three stearic acid macrogol esters), more particularly Polyethylene Glycol 50EO monostearate (the CTFA title: the PEG-50 stearate) and Polyethylene Glycol 100EO monostearate (the CTFA title: the PEG-100 stearate), and composition thereof.
Also can use these surfactant mixtures, for example contain tristerin and PEG-100 stearate by Corda with title Arlacel 165 product solds, and contain tristerin (single distearin) and potassium stearate by Goldschmidt with title Tegin product sold (CTFA title: tristerin SE).
Fatty acid ester as glucose or alkyl glucose, can mention Palmic acid glucose ester, half times of stearic acid alkyl glucose ester especially, half times of stearic acid methyl glucoside ester for example, Palmic acid alkyl glucose ester, for example Palmic acid methyl glucoside ester or palm acid ethyl glucose ester, the fatty ester of methyl glucosamine, the more particularly diester of oleic acid and methyl glucosamine (CTFA title: two oleic acid methyl glucose esters); The mixed ester of oleic acid and hydroxy stearic acid mixture and methyl glucosamine (CTFA title: two oleic acid/hydroxy stearic acid methyl glucose ester); The ester of isostearic acid and methyl glucosamine (CTFA title: isostearic acid methyl glucose ester); The ester of lactic acid and methyl glucosamine (CTFA title: lactic acid methyl glucose ester); The monoesters of isostearic acid and methyl glucosamine and the mixture of diester (CTFA title: half times of isostearic acid methyl glucose ester); The monoesters of stearic acid and methyl glucosamine and the mixture of diester (the CTFA title: half times of stearic acid methyl glucose ester), especially by Amerchol with title Glucate SS product sold, and composition thereof.
Ether as the oxyethylation of fatty acid and glucose or alkyl glucose, can mention for example ether of the oxyethylation of fatty acid and methyl glucoside, particularly contain the diester of the stearic acid of about 20mol oxirane and methyl glucoside polyglycol ether (the CTFA title: PEG-20 methyl Fructus Vitis viniferae distearate), for example by Amerchol with title Glucam E-20 distearate product sold; Polyglycol ether (the CTFA title: half times of stearate of PEG-20 methyl glucoside) that contains the mixture of the monoesters of the stearic acid of about 20mol oxirane and methyl glucoside and diester, especially by Amerchol with title Glucamate SSE-20 product sold, and composition thereof.Can mention for example palm stearin acid sucrose ester, stearic acid sucrose ester and mono laurate sucrose ester as sucrose ester.
As fatty alcohol ether, can mention the polyglycol ether of the aliphatic alcohol that for example contains 8-30 carbon atom, a particularly 10-22 carbon atom, for example the polyglycol ether of spermol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of spermol and stearyl alcohol).Can mention the ether of the group that for example contains 1-200, preferred 2-100 oxyethylation, for example have those of CTFA title ceteareth 20 and ceteareth-30, and composition thereof.
As sugar ether, especially can mention alkylpolyglucoside, decyl glucoside for example, for example by KaoChemicals with title Mydol 10 product solds, Henkel is with title Plantaren 2000 product solds, and Seppic is with title OramixNS 10 product solds; Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for example by Seppic with title Oramix CG 110 or by BASF with title Lutensol GD 70 product solds; The lauryl glucoside, for example by Henkel with title Plantaren 1200N and Plantacare 1200 product solds; The cocoyl glucoside, for example by Henkel with title Plantacare 818/UP product sold; Cetostearyl glucoside (cetostearyl glucoside), the mixture of optional conduct and 16 octadecanol (cetostearyl alcohol) is for example sold, is sold with title Tego-Care CG90 and sold with title Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel by Goldschmidt with title Montanov 68 by Seppic; AI3-28404 base glucoside (arachidyl lucoside) for example as the form of the mixture of the pure and mild AI3-28404 base of the pure and mild docosane of AI3-28404 glucoside, is sold with title Montanov 202 by Seppic; Cocoyl ethyl glucuronide glycosides, for example the form of the mixture of conduct and spermol and stearyl alcohol (35/65) is sold with title Montanov 82 by Seppic; And composition thereof.
Also can mention:
-oxyalkylated alkenyl succinic acid ester is for example at described in the document EP 1025898 those.
-alkylphosphonate is for example at described in the document EP 1013338 those.
-citric acid Arrcostab is for example at described in the document EP 1020219 those.
-lipoamino acid and salt thereof, for example acyl glutamic acid one sodium and disodium, for example, stearoyl-glutamic acid one sodium (Amisoft HS-11PF) and the stearoyl-glutamic acid disodium (AmisoftHS-21P) sold by Ajinomoto.
-alkylphosphonate and salt thereof, the alkali metal salt of dicetyl phosphate and two myristyl alcohol phosphate esters for example, or also have Phosphoric acid monohexadecyl ester potassium, for example the Amphisol K that sells by DSM Nutritional Products.
-cholesterol derivative, cholesterol sulfate alkali metal salt for example, cholesterol phosphate ester alkali metal salt.
-phosphatidic acid ammonium salt.
-phospholipid.
-alkyl sulfonic acid salt derivative is as described in the patent documentation EP 1120101.
-Gemini surface active agent (gemini surfactant), the particularly surfactant of following formula (I):
Wherein:
R 1And R 3Expression independently of one another has the alkyl of 1-25 carbon atom;
R 2Expression has the interval base of the alkylidene formation of the straight chain of 1-12 carbon atom or side chain;
X and Y represent-(C independently of one another 2H 4O) a-(C 3H 6O) bThe Z group, wherein
Z represent hydrogen atom or-CH 2-COOM ,-SO 3M ,-P (O) is (OM) 2,-C 2H 4-SO 3M ,-C 3H 6-SO 3M or-CH 2(CHOH) 4CH 2The OH group, wherein M and M ' represent H or alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or alkylol ammonium ion,
The a scope is 0-15,
The b scope be 0-10 and
The scope of a+b sum is 1-25; With
The scope of n is 1-10.
Preferred each R 1-CO-and R 3-CO-group comprises 8-20 carbon atom, preferably represents fatty acid distribution of coconut oil residue (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).
More preferably for each X and Y group, the average value ranges of a and b sum is 10-20, preferably equals 15.For Z, preferred group is-SO 3M group, wherein preferably alkali metal ion, for example sodium ion of M.
The basic R in interval 2Favourable by straight chain C 1-C 3Alkylidene chain is formed, preferred ethylidene chain.
At last, n advantageously equals 1.
Such surfactant is particularly by the INCI title: the definition of two cocoyl ethylene diamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate, have following structure:
Figure BSA00000275589900171
Wherein the meansigma methods of n is 15, and R represents the fatty acid distribution of coconut oil residue.
This surfactant can obtain with title Ceralution C, Ceralution F and Ceralution H from Sasol with the form of other surfactant and the mixture of altogether optional-emulsifying agent commercial.This Gemini surface active agent has this a little mixture of 3%-50% weight.
Can also comprise the chemical compound that is called " solubilizing agent " according to compositions of the present invention, it is selected from the derivant of the oxygen alkylene of castor oil hydrogenated usually; Can mention (40EO) of oxyethylation castor oil hydrogenated is for example arranged, as selling with title Solubilisant LRI by LCW with the mixture of (26PO) oxyethylation (26EO) butanols in water of oxypropylation, or polyoxy 40 castor oil hydrogenated of selling with title Cremophore RH 40.
Water
Water according to compositions of the present invention comprises water at least.
The lid human relations form that depends on compositions, with respect to composition total weight, the weight range of water is a 0.1-99% weight, preferred 0.5-98% weight, 30-95% weight more preferably, even 40-95% weight more preferably.This amount depends on the lid human relations form of desired combined thing.The water yield can be all or part of of water, with respect to composition total weight, is at least 30% weight usually, preferably at least 40% weight.
Especially, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, water can be a 50-98% weight, preferred 55-95% weight, more preferably 60-90% weight.
Water can contain at least a hydrophilic solvent, for example, is essentially the rudimentary single alcohol with 1-8 carbon atom of straight chain or side chain, for example ethanol, propanol, butanols, isopropyl alcohol or isobutanol; Polyhydric alcohol, for example propylene glycol, Isopropanediol, butanediol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, and composition thereof.
The mixable chemical compound of water, for example polyhydric alcohol and lower alcohol, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, amount ranges can be 0.05-30%, particularly 0.1-30%, more preferably 1-20%.
Oil
The meaning of term " oil " is that at room temperature (25 ℃) are the fatty material of liquid down.
According to compositions of the present invention, with respect to composition total weight, contain at least a oil of at least 3% weight, preferred at least 5% weight, at least 7% weight more preferably, even the oil of at least 10% weight more preferably.With respect to the gross weight of compositions, total weight range of oil is a 3%-40% weight, is preferably 5%-30% weight, preferred 5%-25% weight, even 5%-20% weight more preferably also.
According to an embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, the oil content of compositions is less than or equal to 20% weight, preferably is less than or equal to 17% weight, better for being less than or equal to 15% weight, even also more preferably is less than or equal to 12% weight.
Oil can be selected from the oil in evaporable or non-volatile plant, mineral or synthetic source and composition thereof.These oil are that the physiology is upward acceptable.
Term " ethereal oil " meaning in the present invention is under room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg), contacts with keratin material, can be less than one hour evaporable oil.Ethereal oil of the present invention is the volatility cosmetics oil, and it is a liquid in room temperature, and has non--zero vapour pressure under room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and scope is 0.13Pa-40000Pa (10 especially -3-300mmHg), and 1.3Pa-13000Pa (0.01-100mmHg) particularly, more preferably scope is 1.3Pa-1300Pa (0.01-10mmHg).
The meaning of term " fixed oil " is room temperature and atmospheric pressure can be retained to few a few hours down on keratin substances a oil, and it has especially less than 10 -3The vapour pressure of mmHg (0.13Pa).Can also limit the evaporation rate of fixed oil, for example under the condition of formerly determining, when finishing in 30 minutes, evaporation capacity is less than 0.07mg/cm 2
For example can mention according to the oil in the compositions of the present invention as can be used for:
The alkyl oil of-animal origin, for example perhydro-squalene;
The alkyl oil of-plant origin, for example liquid, fatty acid glyceryl ester with 4-10 carbon atom, for example enanthic acid or sad triglyceride, or sunflower oil, Semen Maydis oil, soybean oil, marrow oil (marrow oil), Oleum Vitis viniferae, Oleum sesami, hazelnut oil, Apricot kernel oil, Australia Oleum Juglandis, arara oil, coriander seed oil, Oleum Ricini or American Avocado Tree oil, the caprylic/capric triglyceride, for example sell by St é arinerie Dubois, perhaps by Dynamit Nobel with title Miglyol 810,812 and 818 sale, Jojoba oil or Butyrospermum fatty oil;
-synthetic ester and ether, particularly fatty acid, formula R for example 1COOR 2And R 1OR 2Oil, R wherein 1Expression contains fatty acid or the aliphatic alcohol residue and the R of 8-29 carbon atom 2Expression contains the side chain or the non-collateralization hydrocarbyl chain of 3-30 carbon atom, for example, and Purcellin oil, 2-octyl group dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl group dodecyl eruciate and isostearic acid iso stearyl ester; Hydroxylating ester, for example heptanoate, caprylate, the decanoin of lactic acid iso stearyl ester, octyl hydroxystearate, hydroxy stearic acid octyl group dodecyl ester, maleic acid two iso stearyl esters, citric acid three different cetyl and aliphatic alcohol; Polyol ester, for example two sad propylene glycol esters, two enanthic acid DOPCP and two different n-nonanoic acid binaryglycol esters; And pentaerythritol ester, for example four isostearic acid pentaerythritol esters;
The alkyl oil in the mineral of-straight chain or side chain or synthetic source for example volatilizees or non-volatile liquid paraffin and derivant, liquid vaseline, poly decene, 2-Methylpentadecane, Fancol ID and Parleam, for example
Figure BSA00000275589900191
Oil;
-fluorinated oil, it comprises hydrocarbon and/or silicone part, for example at described in document JP-A-2-295912 those;
-silicone oil, for example volatilize or polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) non-volatile, that have straight chain or cyclosiloxane chain, it at room temperature is liquid state or pasty state, volatile silicone oils particularly, especially Cyclomethicone (Cyclomethicone), for example hexamethylene dimethyl siloxane and ring penta dimethyl siloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane, it has alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl side group or has alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl at the siloxane chain end, and alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl group have 2-24 carbon atom; Phenylating siloxanes, for example Silicone DC 556, phenyl dimethyl siloxane, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy group) diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethyl siloxane, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl base) trisiloxanes or (2-phenyl-ethyl) trimethyl silica estersil and PSI; With
-their mixture.
Oil is the part according to the oil phase of compositions of the present invention.
But but oil phase can also contain any common liposoluble as described below or the dispersive additive of fat.
It contains other fatty materials especially, for example, and wax, pasty state chemical compound, aliphatic alcohol and fatty acid.Oil phase especially can comprise at least a silicone resin, for example, α, ω-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane for example has α, and the PDMS/5cstPDMS mixture (12/88) of ω-hydroxylating group is sold with title DC 1503 by Dow Corning.
With respect to composition total weight, the weight range of oil phase can be in for example 1-40% weight, preferred 5-35% weight, preferred 10-35% weight.
In the present invention, the amount of described oil phase and water does not comprise derivant, thickening agent and the surfactant of the operable oxygen alkylene according to the present invention.
Additive
Known compositions of the present invention can also comprise common one or more adjuvant in cosmetics or dermatological field.Can mention active effective ingredient, antiseptic, antioxidant, aromatic, solvent, salt, filler, sunscreen (=UV screening agent), coloured material, alkaline agent (triethanolamine, diethanolamine, sodium hydroxide) or sour agent (citric acid) as adjuvant, and the medium (vector) (nanocapsule, microcapsule or the like) that also has fatty renal capsule or any other type, and composition thereof.These adjuvant are to use in the common ratio of cosmetic field, the 0.01-30% weight of the gross weight of compositions for example, and it depends on its character, the water of introducing compositions or oil phase or introduces in the vesicle or the medium (vector) of any other type.These adjuvant and concentration thereof must make it not change the character of the present composition of hope.
As the filler that can be used in the present composition, can mention for example pigment, for example the oxide of titanium, zinc or ferrum and organic pigment; Kaolin; Silicon stone; Talcum; Boron nitride; Spherical organic dust; Fiber; And composition thereof.As spherical organic dust, can mention for example polyamide powder, especially
Figure BSA00000275589900201
For example Nylon-1 or polyamide 12, the powder of selling with title Orgasol by Atochem; Polyethylene powders;
Figure BSA00000275589900202
Based on the microsphere of acrylic copolymer, for example by those of selling with title Polytrap by Dow Corning of making of Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/methacrylic acid Lauryl Ester copolymer; Hollow hemispherical silicone granule is for example from the NLK of Takemoto Oil and Fat
Figure BSA00000275589900203
NLK
Figure BSA00000275589900204
And NLK
Figure BSA00000275589900205
Foaming powder (expanded powders), for example microsphere of hollow and microsphere of especially selling with title Expancel by Kemanord Plast or the microsphere of selling with title Micropearl F80ED by Matsumoto; Silicone resin microballon, for example those that sell with title Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone; Poly (methyl methacrylate) micro-sphere is sold with title Microsphere M-100 or is sold with title Covabead LH85 by Wackherr by Matsumoto; Ethene/acrylic ester copolymer powder, for example those that sell with title Flobeads by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; The perhaps powder that forms from natural organic, starch powder for example, the powder that forms by crosslinked or noncrosslinking corn, Semen Tritici aestivi or rice starch particularly, the powder of for example using the crosslinked starch of octenyl succinic acid anhydride to form, sell perlite and composition thereof with title Dry-Flo by National Starch.As filler, can mention for example polyamide filler, for example especially by Nylon 6 (perhaps polyamide 6) or by Nylon 6,6 (perhaps polyamide 66) (INCI title: the filler of Xing Chenging nylon 66), the perhaps filler that for example forms by poly-(terephthaldehyde Xi'an p-phenylenediamine (PPD)); And composition thereof.
With respect to the gross weight of compositions, the amount ranges of these fillers can be a 0-20% weight, preferred 0.5%-10% weight.
As the active effective ingredient that can be used in the present composition, can mention for example moisturizing agent, for example protolysate; Hyaluronate sodium; The Glycyrrhiza glabra L. extract; Polyhydric alcohol, for example glycerol, glycols, for example Polyethylene Glycol, and sugar derivatives; Antiinflammatory; Oligomeric proanthocyanidin; Vitamin, for example vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (pantothenylol), vitamin B3 or PP (nicotiamide), derivant of these vitamin (particularly ester) and composition thereof; Dissociate agent and/or peel off lytic agent of cutin, for example salicylic acid and derivant thereof, 'alpha '-hydroxy acids, for example lactic acid and glycolic and derivant thereof, and ascorbic acid and derivant thereof; Carbamide; Caffeine; Depigmenting agent, for example kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; Salicylic acid and derivant thereof; Retinoic acid, for example carotenoid and vitamin A derivative; Hydrocortisone; Melatonin; The extract of Sargassum, fungus, plant, yeast or antibacterial; The steroid class; The antibacterial activity composition, 2,4,4 '-three chloro-2 '-dihydroxy diphenyl ethers (perhaps triclosan), 3,4,4 for example ,-trichlorine three phenylureas (perhaps triclocarban) and above-mentioned acid, especially salicylic acid and derivant thereof; Enzyme; Flavonoid; Agent (tightening agent), for example colloidal particle of the polysaccharide of the microgel form of synthetic polymer, vegetable protein, plant origin or non-microgel form, starch, wax dispenser, blended silicate and inorganic filler compact; Ceramide; Antiinflammatory; The agent (soothing agent) of releiving; Fat eliminating agent (mattifying agent); Anti-alopecia agent and/or hair stimulator; Anti-wrinkle agent; Base oil (essential oil); And composition thereof; With any active effective ingredient that is suitable for the compositions final purpose.
The UV screening agent can be organic or inorganic (perhaps physical UV screening agent).With respect to the gross weight of compositions, it is as active material, and amount ranges is the 0.01-20% wt active material, preferred 0.1-15% weight, more preferably 0.2-10% weight.
As being added to UV-A in the compositions of the present invention and/or active organic screening agent in UV-B district, can mention for example o-aminobenzoa; Cinnamic acid derivative; Dibenzoylmethane derivative; Salicyclic acid derivatives; Camphor derivatives; Pyrrolotriazine derivatives is for example at described in patent application US 4367390, EP 863145, EP 517104, EP 570838, EP796851, EP 775698, EP 878469 and the EP 933376 those; Benzophenone derivates; β, β '-diphenylacrylate; Benzotriazole derivatives; Benzimidizole derivatives; Imidazoline; 2-Ben Bing oxazole derivants are as described in patent EP 669323 and the US 2463264; Right-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivant; Methylene two [(hydroxyphenyl) benzotriazole] derivant is as applying for described in US 5237071, US 5166355, GB 2303549, DE 19726184 and the EP 893119; Cover polymer and cover siloxanes, for example especially at described in the application WO93/04665 those; Perhaps derived from the dimer of alpha-alkyl phenylethylene, for example at described in the patent application DE 19855649 those.
In according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, total weight range of organic UV screening agent can be a 0.1-20% weight for example, and preferably with respect to the gross weight of compositions, scope is a 0.2-15% weight.
As the physics screening agent that can be added in the present composition; can mention the metal oxide pigment and the nano dye of coating for example or non-coating; oxide of titanium, ferrum, zirconium, zinc or cerium and composition thereof particularly, it can be the optional by the microgranule of coating or nano-particle (nano dye) form of these oxides.
According to compositions of the present invention can be emulsion or slurry type dispersion, the Emulsion of liquid or semiliquid denseness emulsion-type, or the Emulsion of soft, semisolid or solid denseness, cream frost or gel type.
Can be according to compositions of the present invention according to the method preparation for preparing O/W Emulsion of standard.Said composition, promptly, theme of the present invention, expection is used for local application, and can constitute dermatological compositions or cosmetic composition especially, for example expection is used for nursing skin, lip, hair, eyelashes and the fingernail of (anti-wrinkle, defying age, moisturizing, sun protection etc.), processing, cleaning and offset angle protein material, particularly people.
According to a preliminary election embodiment of the present invention, compositions constitutes cosmetic composition, and expection is used to locally apply to skin.
Following embodiment is used for understanding the present invention better, but does not have restricted.Except as otherwise noted, the amount of indication is a % weight.
Embodiment
Embodiment 1
Prepare following Emulsion:
Figure BSA00000275589900231
Figure BSA00000275589900241
Operation:
On the one hand the component of A phase is mixed, on the other hand the component of B is mixed, each mixture is 50-75 ℃ of heating, up to obtaining uniform mixture.Then, A is added to B stirred 15 minutes when identical, be cooled to 40 ℃ then, under agitation add C, D and E mutually, allow mixture turn back to room temperature then.
Method according to above-mentioned indication is measured, and said composition has the viscosity of 608mPa.s.
Embodiment 2 and 3
Prepare following Emulsion:
Figure BSA00000275589900242
Figure BSA00000275589900251
Method according to above-mentioned indication is measured (No. 3 rotors), and the compositions of embodiment 2 has the viscosity of 2.07Pa.s.
Each Emulsion is assessed according to following method by 6 experts:
Tested compositions 0.2g is wanted in weighing, compositions is turn-taked by 20 times with hands move the top that is administered to the another hands then, then the skin appearance of visually rank before the cream frost absorbs.
Be absorbed up to the cream frost in dry then 2 minutes, and turn-taked in zone on hand and move up to skin effect phenomenon first occurring.
The compositions of embodiment 3 is showing skin effect phenomenon when turn-taking mobile end 20 times before the skin absorbs, do not show skin effect phenomenon according to compositions 2 of the present invention when turn-taking mobile end 20 times simultaneously.
These embodiment have proved according to the existence of the derivant of oxygen alkylene of the present invention and can the significant limitation compositions have produced skin effect phenomenon after on being administered to skin.

Claims (12)

1. the cosmetic composition of oil in water emulsion form comprises oil phase and water, is characterised in that it contains:
-at least a thickening agent, wherein thickening agent is selected from:
1) acrylamide/2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer, optional its is crosslinked and/or is neutralized;
2) sodium polyacrylate;
3) homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optional its is crosslinked and/or is neutralized;
4) polysaccharide, it is selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, arabic gum, Konjac glucomannan or mannan glue, gum tragacanth, Ficus elastica, karaya or carob;
And composition thereof;
-based at least a oil of composition total weight at least 3% weight; With
-at least a by the derivant of oxygen alkylene, it is selected from polyoxy butylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol (INCI title: PEG/PPG/ polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerol);
Wherein with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, thickening agent total solids content scope is a 0.05-15% weight, is existed by the amount of the derivant of oxyethylation with 0.1-20% weight.
2. according to the compositions of claim 1, be characterised in that gross weight, existed by the amount of the derivant of oxyethylation with 0.5-15% weight based on compositions.
3. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, be characterised in that it comprises at least a thickening agent that is selected from acrylamide/AMPS copolymer.
4. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, be characterised in that it comprises at least a first thickening agent and at least a second thickening agent that is different from acrylamide/AMPS copolymer that is selected from acrylamide/AMPS copolymer.
5. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, be characterised in that the gross weight with respect to compositions, thickening agent total solids content scope is a 0.1%-10% weight.
6. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, be characterised in that the thickening agent total solids content is greater than or equal to 0.3% weight with respect to composition total weight.
7. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, be characterised in that it comprises surfactant.
8. according to the compositions of claim 7, be characterised in that surfactant is selected from non-ionic surface active agent.
9. according to the compositions of claim 7, being characterised in that the gross weight with respect to compositions, is 0.1%-20% weight as the weight range of the surfactant of active substance.
10. as the compositions of claim 1 or 2, be characterised in that the gross weight with respect to compositions, the content of oil is at least 5% weight.
11. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, be characterised in that the gross weight with respect to compositions, the content of oil is for being less than or equal to 20% weight.
12. be used for the method for keratin material cosmetic treatment, be characterised in that each cosmetic composition of foundation claim 1-11 is administered on the keratin material.
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