CN100443646C - A kind of mulberry fiber blended fabric and its production process - Google Patents
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Abstract
Description
技术领域 technical field
本发明涉及混纺一种混纺织物及其生产工艺,尤其涉及一种桑皮纤维混纺织物及其生产工艺。The invention relates to a blended fabric and its production process, in particular to a mulberry fiber blended fabric and its production process.
背景技术 Background technique
目前,用于服用纺织品的天然纤维有:棉、毛、丝、麻等种类。这些纤维的基本特性决定了其织物的性能和风格特征。也就是说:织物的性能和风格特征从属于其所使用的纤维的类型。而每一种天然纤维都有其固有的弱点,比如麻纤维强力高、织物挺爽,但柔软性和弹性却差,穿用时人的刺痒感至今未能解决。蚕丝柔软且有明亮的光泽,但过于的柔软使织物没有身骨,织物的强力和保形性也较差。这些都使得纺织产品的多样性受到限制,给纺织品开发带来不利影响。同时,日益更新的消费需求和市场需求也对传统天然纤维的品种和资源提出挑战,开发新型天然纤维的需求越来越强烈。At present, the natural fibers used in clothing textiles include: cotton, wool, silk, hemp and other types. The fundamental properties of these fibers determine the performance and style characteristics of their fabrics. That is to say: the performance and style characteristics of a fabric are subordinate to the type of fibers used in it. And every kind of natural fiber has its inherent weakness, such as the hemp fiber has high strength and the fabric is very cool, but the softness and elasticity are poor, and the itching feeling of people when wearing it has not been solved so far. Silk is soft and has bright luster, but too soft makes the fabric have no body, and the strength and shape retention of the fabric are also poor. All of these make the diversity of textile products limited and have a negative impact on the development of textiles. At the same time, the increasingly updated consumer demand and market demand also challenge the varieties and resources of traditional natural fibers, and the demand for developing new natural fibers is becoming stronger and stronger.
桑树在我国有几千年的种植史,但对桑树的利用一直是“种桑养蚕”为主,另外,桑白皮被中医用作平喘、清肺热的中药。桑皮中富含的纤维素纤维由于其长度、强度、以及长度整齐度不适宜低技术的纺织生产,一直未被作为纺织原料。目前国内外还未见桑皮纤维混纺织物的报道(高等学校科技项目咨询及成果查新中心工作站(四川大学)2003079号查新报告)。Mulberry trees have been planted in my country for thousands of years, but the utilization of mulberry trees has been mainly "planting mulberry and raising silkworms". In addition, Morus alba is used as a traditional Chinese medicine for relieving asthma and clearing lung heat. The cellulose fibers rich in mulberry bark have not been used as textile raw materials because their length, strength, and length uniformity are not suitable for low-tech textile production. At present, there is no report of mulberry fiber blended fabric at home and abroad (Novelty Search Report No. 2003079 of the Workstation of the Science and Technology Project Consulting and Achievement Novelty Search Center of Higher Education Institutions (Sichuan University).
桑皮纤维是从桑枝上采剥下的桑白皮经脱胶处理得到的天然纤维,它具有吸湿性好、挺爽、冷感性好、有蚕丝般截面和光泽的良好服用性能。Mulberry fiber is a natural fiber obtained by degumming the Morus alba peeled from mulberry branches. It has good hygroscopicity, coolness, good cold feeling, silky cross-section and luster.
发明内容 Contents of the invention
本发明的目的是提供一种桑皮纤维与长绒棉为原料的混纺织物。该织物具有吸湿性、透汽性好;手感挺爽而不失柔软、冷感性好而无刺痒感;织物有丝般的光泽;是一种新型的绿色天然纤维纺织品。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of blended fabric of mulberry fiber and long-staple cotton as raw material. The fabric has good hygroscopicity and vapor permeability; it feels cool but soft, and has good cold feeling without itching; the fabric has a silky luster; it is a new type of green natural fiber textile.
本发明的另一目的是提供一种上述桑皮纤维与长绒棉为原料的混纺织物的生产工艺。Another object of the present invention is to provide a kind of production technology of the blended fabric of above-mentioned mulberry fiber and long-staple cotton as raw material.
本发明的技术方案是:一种桑皮纤维混纺织物,可以是机织物或是针织物,其特征是:构成织物的纱线由15~25%桑皮纤维和75~85%的长绒棉混纺而成,纱线特数为19.5~48Tex。混纺时桑皮纤维的长度为10~45mm。桑皮纤维主要分布在纱线的外层,长绒棉纤维主要分布在纱线的内层;织物设计克重为:80~The technical scheme of the present invention is: a kind of mulberry fiber blended fabric, can be woven fabric or knitted fabric, is characterized in that: the yarn that constitutes fabric is made of 15~25% mulberry fiber and 75~85% long-staple cotton It is blended, and the yarn tex is 19.5~48Tex. The length of the mulberry fiber is 10-45mm when blended. The mulberry fiber is mainly distributed in the outer layer of the yarn, and the long-staple cotton fiber is mainly distributed in the inner layer of the yarn; the design weight of the fabric is: 80~
400g/m2。400g/m 2 .
上述机织物的组织可以采用平纹、斜纹、缎纹、小花纹组织或大提花组织;针织物的组织可以采用纬平、罗纹、提花等组织。The weave of the above-mentioned woven fabric can adopt plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, small pattern weave or jacquard weave;
一种上述桑皮纤维与长绒棉为原料的混纺织物的生产工艺,其工艺流程是:将桑皮纤维条和棉条经并条、粗纱、细纱工序后,机织物经织前准备工序在织机上织造成布;针织物则经筒并捻工序后在细针横机上织成针织成品或半成品;色织物则将筒子纱染色后进行织造。其特征在于:A kind of above-mentioned mulberry fiber and long-staple cotton is the production technology of the blended fabric of raw material, and its technological process is: after the mulberry fiber strip and cotton sliver are through drawing, roving, spun process, the pre-weaving preparation process of woven fabric is in Fabric is woven on a loom; knitted fabrics are woven into knitted products or semi-finished products on a fine-needle flat knitting machine after the tube and twisting process; dyed fabrics are woven after dyeing the cheese. It is characterized by:
A、并条:将前纺工序已制成条子的桑皮纤维条与棉条在并条机上进行头并、二并、三并,使桑皮纤维与棉纤维充分混并;A, drawing: the mulberry fiber strips and cotton slivers that have been made into slivers in the previous spinning process are first combined, secondly combined and thirdly combined on the drawing frame, so that the mulberry fiber and cotton fiber are fully mixed;
B、粗纱、细纱:进行牵伸加捻时配合较大的张力,使桑皮纤维主要分布在纱线的外层,长绒棉纤维主要分布在纱线的内层;B. Roving and spun yarn: When drafting and twisting are carried out with greater tension, the mulberry fiber is mainly distributed on the outer layer of the yarn, and the long-staple cotton fiber is mainly distributed on the inner layer of the yarn;
C、织造:络筒采用奥托康纳自动络筒机制成无接头纱;机织物浆纱时采用变性淀粉低温上浆工艺;机织物织造时在满足织物上机要求的前提下采用小上机张力上机。C. Weaving: Otto Connor automatic winding machine is used to make non-joint yarn for winding; modified starch low-temperature sizing process is used for sizing woven fabrics; small machine tension is used under the premise of meeting the fabric machine requirements when weaving woven fabrics on board.
与现有技术比较,本发明的有益效果是:Compared with prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:
1、本发明的桑皮纤维混纺织物采用了桑皮纤维这一新型天然与长绒棉纤维混纺成纱线织成织物。开发了天然纤维织物的新类别。该织物具有吸湿性、透汽性好;手感挺爽而不失柔软、冷感性好而无刺痒感;织物有丝般的光泽;是一种新型的绿色天然纤维纺织品。1, the mulberry fiber blended fabric of the present invention has adopted this novel nature of mulberry fiber and long-staple cotton fiber to blend into yarn and weave fabric. A new category of natural fiber fabrics was developed. The fabric has good hygroscopicity and vapor permeability; it feels cool but soft, and has good cold feeling without itching; the fabric has a silky luster; it is a new type of green natural fiber textile.
2、采用长度为10~45mm桑皮纤维与长绒棉混纺,解决了桑皮纤维纯纺成纱困难的技术问题。2. The mulberry fiber with a length of 10-45mm is blended with long-staple cotton, which solves the technical problem of difficulty in pure spinning of mulberry fiber into yarn.
3、配合粗纱和细纱的牵伸加捻工艺使含量多的长绒棉纤维主要分布在纱线内层,构成了纱线的主体,使纱线获得较好的力学性能。而含量较少的桑皮纤维主要分布在纱线外层,使得桑皮纤维织物能充分展现桑皮纤维吸湿性好、挺爽、冷感性好、有蚕丝般截面和光泽的良好服用性能。这样就解决了普通纺纱工艺存在的桑皮纤维组分大会使成纱困难;桑皮纤维组分小又使桑皮纤维均匀分布在纱线内,桑皮纤维的特性得不到充分体现的弱点。3. With the drafting and twisting process of roving and spun yarn, the long-staple cotton fibers with a large content are mainly distributed in the inner layer of the yarn, forming the main body of the yarn, so that the yarn can obtain better mechanical properties. The mulberry fiber with less content is mainly distributed in the outer layer of the yarn, so that the mulberry fiber fabric can fully demonstrate the good wearability of the mulberry fiber with good hygroscopicity, coolness, good cold feeling, silk-like cross-section and luster. This solves the problem that the mulberry fiber components in the common spinning process make yarn difficult; the mulberry fiber components are small and the mulberry fibers are evenly distributed in the yarn, and the characteristics of the mulberry fibers cannot be fully reflected. weakness.
下面结合附图和实施例对本发明进一步说明。The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and embodiments.
附图说明 Description of drawings
附图为本发明纱线截面结构示意图。The accompanying drawing is a schematic diagram of the cross-sectional structure of the yarn of the present invention.
图中:1、长绒棉纤维;2、桑皮纤维。In the figure: 1. Long-staple cotton fiber; 2. Mulberry fiber.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
实施例1:桑皮纤维/长绒棉混纺吡叽Embodiment 1: Mulberry fiber/long-staple cotton blended pyrge
本实施例采用10~45mm(主体长度为18mm)的桑皮纤维与主体长度为35mm的长绒棉纤维混纺,干重混纺比为20/80(即干重为20%桑皮纤维,与干重为80%的棉纤维混纺);经纱和纬纱均为21Tex,附图示出,桑皮纤维2主要分布在纱线的外层,长绒棉纤维1主要分布在纱线的内层。Present embodiment adopts 10~45mm (the main body length is 18mm) and the long-staple cotton fiber blending that main body length is 35mm with the mulberry fiber of 10~45mm, and the dry weight blending ratio is 20/80 (being that dry weight is 20% mulberry fiber, with dry weight Weight is 80% cotton fiber blending); warp yarn and weft yarn are 21Tex, accompanying drawing shows,
织物经向密度366根/10cm,纬向密度256根/10cm,织物质量126.6g/m2,幅宽160cm,织物组织为2/2斜纹。The warp density of the fabric is 366 threads/10cm, the weft density is 256 threads/10cm, the fabric quality is 126.6g/m 2 , the width is 160cm, and the fabric weave is 2/2 Twill.
本实施例为机织物,其生产工艺的工艺流程是:将桑皮纤维条和棉条经并条、粗纱、细纱工序,再经络筒、整经、浆纱、穿经工序等织前准备工序后,在SULZER RUTI片梭织机上织造成布。其中:This embodiment is a woven fabric, and the technological process of its production process is: the mulberry fiber slivers and cotton slivers are subjected to drawing, roving, and spun yarn processes, and then through pre-weaving preparation processes such as winding, warping, sizing, and threading processes. Finally, it is woven into cloth on a SULZER RUTI projectile loom. in:
并条:将前纺工序已制成条子的桑皮纤维条与棉条在并条机上进行头并、二并、三并,使桑皮纤维与棉纤维充分混并;Drawing: The mulberry fiber strips and cotton slivers that have been made into slivers in the previous spinning process are first combined, secondly combined and thirdly combined on the drawing frame, so that the mulberry fiber and cotton fiber are fully mixed;
粗纱、细纱:进行牵伸加捻时配合较大的张力,使桑皮纤维2主要分布在纱线的外层,长绒棉纤维1主要分布在纱线的内层;Roving and spun yarn: When drafting and twisting are carried out with greater tension, the
织造:络筒采用奥托康纳自动络筒机制成无接头纱。浆纱时采用变性淀粉低温上浆工艺。织造时在满足织物上机要求的前提下采用小上机张力上机。Weaving: Winding adopts Otto Connor automatic winding machine to make jointless yarn. Modified starch low temperature sizing process is used for sizing. When weaving, under the premise of meeting the requirements of the fabric on the machine, use a small tension on the machine.
所谓桑皮纤维主要分布在纱线外层是指纱线中桑皮纤维的65%以上分布在纱线的外层。所谓纱线外层是指纱线截面按汉密尔顿圆五等分后的第4~5环内,而1~3环内是纱线内层。The so-called mulberry fiber is mainly distributed in the outer layer of the yarn means that more than 65% of the mulberry fiber in the yarn is distributed in the outer layer of the yarn. The so-called outer layer of yarn refers to the 4th to 5th rings after the cross section of the yarn is divided into five equal parts by the Hamilton circle, and the inner layer of the yarn is in the 1st to 3rd rings.
实施例2:桑皮纤维/长绒棉混纺缎条织物Embodiment 2: Mulberry fiber/long-staple cotton blended satin fabric
本实施例采用长度为10~45mm(主体长度为22mm)的桑皮纤维与主体长度为38mm的长绒棉纤维混纺,干重混纺比为15/85;经纱和纬纱均为19.5Tex,桑皮纤维主要分布在纱线的外层,长绒棉纤维主要分布在纱线的内层。织物经向密度456根/10cm,纬向密度324根/10cm,织物质量144.8g/m2,幅宽210cm,织物组织为五枚经缎与五枚纬缎形成的缎条组织。This embodiment adopts the blending of mulberry fiber with a length of 10-45mm (main body length is 22mm) and long-staple cotton fiber with a main body length of 38mm, and the dry weight blending ratio is 15/85; The fibers are mainly distributed in the outer layer of the yarn, and the long-staple cotton fibers are mainly distributed in the inner layer of the yarn. The warp density of the fabric is 456 threads/10cm, the weft density is 324 threads/10cm, the fabric weight is 144.8g/m 2 , and the width is 210cm. The fabric weave is a satin weave formed by five warp satins and five weft satins.
本实施例生产工艺的工艺流程与实施例1基本相同,不同点是:织造时在多臂织机上织造成布,用综数为12页,筘入数为4入。The technical process of the production process of this embodiment is basically the same as that of Embodiment 1, the difference is: when weaving, it is woven into cloth on a dobby loom, the number of healds is 12, and the number of reeds is 4.
3、桑皮纤维/长绒棉混纺针织物(色织)3. Mulberry fiber/long-staple cotton blended knitted fabric (dyed yarn)
本实施例采用10~45mm(主体长度为16mm)的桑皮纤维与主体长度为35mm的长绒棉纤维混纺,干重混纺比为25/75;经纱和纬纱均为24×2Tex,织物质量384g/m2,织物组织为针织提花组织。将桑皮纤维条和棉条经并条、粗纱、细纱、筒并捻、筒子染色工序后在细针横机上编织成品。本实施例与实例1的不同点是:织前准备工序为筒并捻、筒子染色工序;织造在细针针织横机上进行。In this embodiment, mulberry fibers with a length of 10 to 45 mm (the length of the main body is 16 mm) are blended with long-staple cotton fibers with a length of the main body of 35 mm, and the dry weight blending ratio is 25/75; /m 2 , the fabric is knitted jacquard. After the mulberry fiber strips and cotton slivers are drawn, roving, spun, bobbin twisted, and bobbin dyed, the finished product is woven on a fine-needle flat knitting machine. The difference between this embodiment and Example 1 is: the preparation process before weaving is tube doubling and tube dyeing process; weaving is carried out on a fine-needle flat knitting machine.
本发明不限于以上实施例。The present invention is not limited to the above embodiments.
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CN111485312A (en) * | 2020-04-28 | 2020-08-04 | 安徽宏祥丝绸织造有限公司 | Preparation method of anti-static silk fabric |
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