CN100381629C - Garment shape memory finishing processing method - Google Patents
Garment shape memory finishing processing method Download PDFInfo
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- CN100381629C CN100381629C CNB2005101276166A CN200510127616A CN100381629C CN 100381629 C CN100381629 C CN 100381629C CN B2005101276166 A CNB2005101276166 A CN B2005101276166A CN 200510127616 A CN200510127616 A CN 200510127616A CN 100381629 C CN100381629 C CN 100381629C
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Abstract
Description
一、技术领域 1. Technical field
本发明涉及一种织物形态记忆整理加工方法,更特别地涉及一种采用喷雾方法对成衣进行形态记忆整理加工的方法。The invention relates to a fabric shape memory finishing method, and more particularly relates to a method of using a spraying method to carry out shape memory finishing processing on garments.
二、背景技术 2. Background technology
长久以来,对于纯棉、纯麻、或其他纤维素纤维织物(服装),都需要经过特定的化学处理方法整理,以使其织物(服装)经水洗后仍能保待平滑、挺直、褶痕清晰的效果。90年代以来,在纺织化学界或商品服装上常用的不皱(Wrinkle free)、形态安定(form Stability)、形状记忆(Shape memory)、免烫(non-irotlins)等术语或名称,实际上都是指耐久免烫整理。现行的处理方式大致分为三种:预焙烘(Pre-cure)、后焙烘(Post-cure)和风衣整理(浸渍Garment finishing)。对于常规的以成衣(衣片)为主的免烫整理工序,常用的整理工艺为:缝制服装-预处理-浸渍整理液-离心脱水-吹烫-压烫-焙烘-冷却。目前,按常规的使用方法是将整理液按配方要求先在化料桶内进行整理液配制,然后将成衣(或衣片)浸没在整理剂液面下,浸渍时间3分钟左右,具体视成衣厚薄等情况定;然后将成衣(或衣片)取出进行后续处理;成衣取出后的整理液,在补充新液后可继续使用,一般用8-10次。成衣从浸渍液中取出后,即进行离心脱水,经脱水后有多少带液量为合适,则要看整理剂的浓度、面料的组织规格和织物厚薄等而定,目前,工厂掌握带液量在70%左右。For a long time, for pure cotton, pure linen, or other cellulose fiber fabrics (clothing), it is necessary to undergo specific chemical treatment methods, so that the fabric (clothing) can still be kept smooth, straight and pleated after washing. clear effect. Since the 1990s, terms or names such as wrinkle free, form stability, shape memory, and non-irotlins, which are commonly used in textile chemistry or commercial clothing, are actually all Refers to durable non-iron finishing. The current treatment methods are roughly divided into three types: pre-cure, post-cure and windbreaker finishing (garment finishing). For the conventional non-ironing finishing process based on ready-made garments (garment pieces), the commonly used finishing process is: sewing garments - pretreatment - dipping finishing solution - centrifugal dehydration - blow ironing - pressing - baking - cooling. At present, the conventional method of use is to prepare the finishing solution in the chemical tank according to the formula requirements, and then immerse the finished garment (or piece of garment) under the liquid surface of the finishing agent, and the immersion time is about 3 minutes, depending on the specific condition of the finished garment. The thickness and other conditions are determined; then the finished garment (or garment piece) is taken out for subsequent processing; the finishing solution after the finished garment is taken out can be used continuously after adding new solution, generally 8-10 times. After the garment is taken out of the dipping solution, it is centrifugally dehydrated. The appropriate amount of liquid after dehydration depends on the concentration of the finishing agent, the fabric specification and the thickness of the fabric. At present, the factory has mastered the amount of liquid. Around 70%.
采用上述传统成衣整理工艺在加工过程中,必须先将成衣置于数倍于成衣(或衣片)重量的整理工作液中进行浸渍或成衣的浸泡,然后将已吸收整理液的成衣取出后进行脱水,以控制成衣的带液量;而实际上被处理的成衣(或衣片)只需要吸收本身重量65-75%的整理液,带液过高不但容易造成大量的泳移现象,还会增加烘燥过程中的能源消耗,同时还会使加工时间延长,降低劳动生产率;此外,由于成衣整理所用助剂大多与纤维素纤维的直接性较低,残存在整理液中的化学药品较多,需要考虑整理液的继续使用和最终残留整理液的排放与废液的处理问题。因此,这种常规的成衣处理方式不但工艺流程太长,使成衣的带液量和对整理液续缸连用的浓度控制困难,还会增大废水的处理与排放量,延长生产时间、浪费能源,导致生产成本增加;同时,若成衣的带液量与整理液续缸连用的浓度控制不当,还会严重影响整理产品的质量。In the process of using the above-mentioned traditional garment finishing process, the garment must first be dipped or soaked in the finishing working fluid several times the weight of the garment (or piece of clothing), and then the garment that has absorbed the finishing fluid is taken out and then processed. Dehydration to control the amount of liquid in the finished garment; in fact, the processed garment (or garment piece) only needs to absorb 65-75% of its own weight of the finishing liquid. Increase the energy consumption in the drying process, and at the same time prolong the processing time and reduce labor productivity; in addition, because most of the auxiliaries used in garment finishing have low directivity with cellulose fibers, there are more chemicals remaining in the finishing solution , it is necessary to consider the continued use of the finishing liquid and the discharge of the final residual finishing liquid and the treatment of waste liquid. Therefore, this conventional garment treatment method not only has a long technological process, but also makes it difficult to control the amount of liquid in the garment and the concentration of the continuous use of the finishing liquid tank, but also increases the treatment and discharge of waste water, prolongs production time, and wastes energy. , leading to an increase in production costs; at the same time, if the amount of liquid carried by the garment and the concentration of the continuous tank of the finishing liquid are not properly controlled, it will also seriously affect the quality of the finishing product.
三、发明内容 3. Contents of the invention
本发明的目的之一是提供一种成衣形态记忆整理加工方法。One of the objects of the present invention is to provide a finishing method for garment shape memory.
本发明的目的之二是提供一种用喷雾方法对成衣或成衣片、织物进行形态记忆整理加工的方法。The second object of the present invention is to provide a method for carrying out shape-memory finishing of garments or garment pieces and fabrics by spraying.
本发明的这个以及其他目的将通过下列详细说明和描述来进一步阐述。This and other objects of the invention will be further illustrated by the following detailed description and description.
本发明的成衣形态记忆整理加工方法,包括水洗、脱水、配制整理液、整理液处理、松式烘干、打冷风、高温焙烘和冷却回潮步骤,其中所述的整理液处理是按成衣重量的60-80%配制整理液,然后将整理液喷洒到成衣上。较好的是,按成衣重量的70%配制整理液,然后将整理液喷洒到成衣上。整理液在室温条件下,以喷雾的方式全部均匀喷洒在已置于旋转式成衣烘干机内随旋转式成衣烘干机旋转的成衣上,烘干机的转速为10-30转/分钟。喷洒完成后,升温至60-80℃,将成衣在旋转式成衣烘干机内以匀速方式作往复转动,时间为10-15分钟。The garment form memory finishing processing method of the present invention comprises the steps of washing, dehydrating, preparing finishing solution, finishing solution treatment, loose drying, cold wind, high temperature baking and cooling and regaining moisture, wherein the finishing solution treatment is based on the weight of the finished garment 60-80% of the finishing liquid is prepared, and then the finishing liquid is sprayed on the garment. Preferably, the finishing solution is formulated at 70% by weight of the garment and then sprayed onto the garment. The finishing liquid is evenly sprayed in the form of spray on the finished garments that have been placed in the rotary garment dryer and rotated with the rotary garment dryer at room temperature. The rotating speed of the dryer is 10-30 rpm. After spraying, heat up to 60-80°C, and rotate the garments back and forth at a constant speed in a rotary garment dryer for 10-15 minutes.
在本发明中,整理液的配方为:In the present invention, the formula of finishing liquid is:
SMPU整理剂 60-80克/升SMPU finishing agent 60-80 g/L
催化剂 15-20克/升Catalyst 15-20 g/L
柔软剂FWL 20-40克/升Softener FWL 20-40 g/L
水 X克/升。Water X g/L.
其中:SMPU整理剂为常规、市售的形态记忆整理剂,当然也可以使用CN-200410041397或CN-200410049446所述的整理剂。催化剂可以从单磷酸钠和次磷酸钠中选择,柔软剂FWL为市售产品,可以由宝洁公司生产。在本申请中,水量为X的含义是以1000克为单位,除上述组分的量之外,余量为水。Wherein: the SMPU finishing agent is a conventional, commercially available shape memory finishing agent, and of course the finishing agent described in CN-200410041397 or CN-200410049446 can also be used. The catalyst can be selected from sodium monophosphate and sodium hypophosphite, and the softener FWL is a commercially available product, which can be produced by Procter & Gamble. In the present application, the amount of water is X means that the unit is 1000 grams, except for the amount of the above-mentioned components, the balance is water.
在本发明中,所述的松式烘干和打冷风步骤是将置于旋转式成衣烘干机内的成衣在60-80℃条件下烘干至带液率小于等于20%,然后降温并打冷风,直至置于旋转式成衣烘干机内的成衣的带液率小于等于10%。高温焙烘的温度为150-170℃,时间为8-12分钟。In the present invention, the step of loose drying and cold air blowing is to dry the garments placed in the rotary garment dryer at 60-80°C until the liquid-carrying rate is less than or equal to 20%, then cool down and Apply cold air until the liquid-carrying rate of the garments placed in the rotary garment dryer is less than or equal to 10%. The temperature of high-temperature baking is 150-170 DEG C, and the time is 8-12 minutes.
本发明的成衣形态记忆整理加工方法是直接将被整理织物重量的大约70%的整理液以均匀喷雾的方式,直接喷洒在已预先置于旋转的转笼式烘燥机内的整理织物(衣片)表面,由于转笼式烘燥机的匀速转动使被整理织物(衣片)在机内不断翻动的过程中与喷射的雾状整理液均匀接触而逐步使整理液被纤维织物均匀吸收和逐步渗透,当整理液的吸附、渗透过程完成后,烘燥机逐步升温至烘干所需温度,便可直接在烘燥机内完成整理织物的吸液与烘燥工程。The garment shape memory finishing processing method of the present invention is to directly spray about 70% of the finishing liquid of the fabric weight to be finished in the manner of uniform spraying on the finishing fabric (clothes) that has been placed in the rotating drum dryer in advance. sheet) surface, due to the uniform rotation of the tumble dryer, the fabric to be finished (clothes piece) is in uniform contact with the sprayed mist finishing liquid during the process of continuous turning in the machine, and the finishing liquid is gradually absorbed by the fiber fabric and Gradually infiltrate, when the adsorption and infiltration process of the finishing liquid is completed, the dryer will gradually heat up to the temperature required for drying, and the liquid absorption and drying process of the finished fabric can be completed directly in the dryer.
本发明的成衣形态记忆整理加工方法的工艺流程为:The technological process of the ready-made garment shape memory finishing processing method of the present invention is:
织物(成衣或成衣片)水洗-酶洗-清水洗-脱水-烘干-称重(配制整理液)-喷洒整理液(成衣重量的70%)-松式烘干(带液率20%)-打冷风(带液率10%)-熨烫-高温焙烘-冷却回潮-包装.Fabric (garment or garment piece) washing - enzyme washing - water washing - dehydration - drying - weighing (preparation of finishing solution) - spraying finishing solution (70% of the weight of the garment) - loose drying (liquid carrying rate 20%) -Cold wind (10% liquid rate)-Ironing-High temperature baking-Cooling and regaining moisture-Packaging.
其中,所述的水洗为清水洗45℃,5分钟一次,酶洗45℃,5分钟,PH为5,生物酶(液体,常用)4克/升,清水洗45℃,2分钟三次,然后脱水、70℃烘干和称重。然后配制形态记忆整理工作液(根据整理要求确定喷洒的整理工作液浓度范围)。吸取上述已准确称量的成衣(衣片)重量70%的整理液,置于含有喷雾装置的旋转式烘燥机内,在烘燥机缓慢转动的情况下,将整理液均匀的喷洒在已置于旋转式成衣烘干机内的成衣(衣片)上,可以是单件喷洒、也可以分次直接喷洒,直至整理液全部喷洒完毕为止;然后,在室温条件下,设定升温至70℃,按常规方法让已喷洒吸附整理液的成衣在旋转式成衣烘干机内以匀速方式作往复转动,使吸附在成衣表面的整理液随旋转式成衣烘干机的匀速转动往而逐步均匀的被纤维织物吸附并逐步扩散、分布于成衣的纤维组织内,运转时间和速度随成衣厚薄或织物组织紧密程度不同而异,一般可在10-15分钟之间选择。Wherein, the water washing is water washing at 45°C, once every 5 minutes, enzyme washing at 45°C, 5 minutes, pH 5, biological enzyme (liquid, commonly used) 4 g/L, water washing at 45°C, three times for 2 minutes, and then Dehydration, drying at 70°C and weighing. Then prepare the shape memory finishing working solution (determine the concentration range of the spraying finishing working solution according to the finishing requirements). Draw the above-mentioned finishing solution of 70% of the weight of the garment (garment piece) that has been accurately weighed, and place it in a rotary dryer with a spray device. When the dryer rotates slowly, spray the finishing solution evenly on the Placed on the garments (garment pieces) in the rotary garment dryer, it can be sprayed on a single piece, or directly sprayed in stages, until all the finishing liquid is sprayed; then, at room temperature, set the temperature to 70 ℃, according to the conventional method, let the garments sprayed with adsorption finishing liquid reciprocate at a constant speed in the rotary garment dryer, so that the finishing liquid adsorbed on the surface of the garments will gradually become uniform with the uniform rotation of the rotary garment dryer. It is absorbed by the fiber fabric and gradually diffused and distributed in the fiber tissue of the garment. The running time and speed vary with the thickness of the garment or the tightness of the fabric tissue. Generally, it can be selected between 10-15 minutes.
将置于旋转式成衣烘干机内的成衣(衣片)在70℃条件下烘干至带液率降至20%;然后降温并打冷风,直至置于旋转式成衣烘干机内的成衣(衣片)的带液率降至10%为止;然后取出旋转式成衣烘干机内的成衣(衣片),进行后续的熨烫和高温定型。所述的可采用常压蒸汽吹烫,每件成衣约需30秒,也可采用压烫机进行压烫。高温定型(焙烘)可采用各类焙烘机、可以用电、煤气、液化气等作为热源进行加热,焙烘温度和时间可以调节,依据成衣规格、组织及厚薄和整理要求而定,一般为150-170℃,8-12分钟。焙烘后自然冷却,约10-12小时,冷却至室温或20-30℃;也可在装有冷气的恒温恒湿房内进行冷却与吸湿回潮,以获得好的手感和高的强力。Dry the garments (pieces) placed in the rotary garment dryer at 70°C until the liquid retention rate drops to 20%; then cool down and blow cold air until the garments placed in the rotary garment dryer (Clothing piece) until the liquid-carrying rate drops to 10%; Then take out the ready-made clothes (clothing piece) in the rotary clothes drying machine, carry out follow-up ironing and high-temperature setting. Said method can be blown and ironed with normal pressure steam, which takes about 30 seconds for each garment, and can also be ironed with a pressing machine. High-temperature shaping (baking) can use various types of baking machines, and can use electricity, coal gas, liquefied petroleum gas, etc. as heat sources for heating. 150-170°C for 8-12 minutes. After baking, cool naturally for about 10-12 hours to room temperature or 20-30°C; cooling and moisture absorption can also be carried out in a constant temperature and humidity room equipped with air-conditioning to obtain a good feel and high strength.
在本发明的成衣形态记忆整理加工方法中,可以使用在旋转式成衣烘干机的门中心装有喷雾装置的烘干机。所述的喷雾、给液装置可以是普通的农用喷雾器,也可以是经过改装的、置于烘干机门内中心位置的固定喷嘴,并与固定在烘干机顶部的具有压缩系统的储液罐通过橡胶管连接。在本发明中所使用的烘干机,可以是目前市售的普通转笼式烘干机,也可以是经过改装的、带有自动称量系统控制装置和烘干机门内中心位置装有固定喷嘴的旋转式式烘干机。In the clothing form memory finishing processing method of the present invention, can use the drying machine that spraying device is housed in the door center of rotary clothing drying machine. The spraying and liquid feeding device can be an ordinary agricultural sprayer, or a modified fixed nozzle placed in the center of the dryer door, and it can be connected with a liquid storage device with a compression system fixed on the top of the dryer. The tanks are connected by rubber tubes. The dryer used in the present invention can be a common tumbler dryer currently available on the market, or a modified one with an automatic weighing system control device and a central position in the dryer door. Rotary dryer with fixed nozzle.
在本发明中所涉及到的其它设备均为目前成衣整理加工行业中的常用设备,在此不多作介绍。Other equipments involved in the present invention are commonly used equipments in the garment finishing and processing industry at present, so they will not be introduced here.
在本发明中,由于所配置整理液的用量是以被整理织物完全吸收所需要的重量为依据配制,因此既可省略常规成衣整理工艺中的浸渍和脱水工序,减少生产设备,又可降低用水量,减少污水排放和减轻污水处理的负担,从而降低整理用药品的消耗,还可节省烘燥过程中的能源消耗,缩短生产时间,提高生产效率,还解决了批量生产中的重演性问题,极大的提高了整理产品的质量和生产效率。In the present invention, since the dosage of the configured finishing liquid is prepared based on the weight required for the complete absorption of the finished fabric, the dipping and dehydrating processes in the conventional garment finishing process can be omitted, production equipment can be reduced, and water consumption can be reduced. It can reduce the amount of sewage discharge and reduce the burden of sewage treatment, thereby reducing the consumption of finishing chemicals, saving energy consumption in the drying process, shortening production time, improving production efficiency, and solving the repeatability problem in mass production. It greatly improves the quality and production efficiency of finishing products.
在本发明中使用的所有原材料等均是常规使用的,可以从市场购得。在本发明中,如非特指,所有的量、百分比均为重量单位。All raw materials and the like used in the present invention are conventionally used and commercially available. In the present invention, unless otherwise specified, all amounts and percentages are in weight units.
下面结合实施例对本发明进行具体的描述。由技术常识可知,本发明可以通过其他的不脱离其精神实质或必要特征的实施方案来实现。因此,下列实施方案,就各方面而言,都只是举例说明,并不是仅有的。所有在本发明范围内或等同本发明的范围内的改变均被本发明包含。The present invention will be specifically described below in conjunction with examples. It can be known from common technical knowledge that the present invention can be realized through other embodiments without departing from its spirit or essential features. Accordingly, the following embodiments are in all respects illustrative and not exclusive. All changes within the scope of the present invention or within the scope equivalent to the present invention are embraced by the present invention.
具体实施方式 Detailed ways
实施例1Example 1
1、织物规格:纯棉斜纹纱咔(棕色)衣片(35×29厘米)、西裤(成衣)1. Fabric specifications: pure cotton twill yarn (brown) garment pieces (35×29 cm), trousers (ready-made garments)
2、工艺流程:2. Process flow:
清水洗-酶洗-酶洗-脱水-烘干(70℃)-称重-配液-喷洒整理液(成衣重量的70%)-旋转烘干-压烫-高温焙烘Water washing-enzyme washing-enzyme washing-dehydration-drying (70°C)-weighing-dosing-spraying finishing solution (70% of the weight of the garment)-rotary drying-pressing-high temperature baking
3、工艺条件:3. Process conditions:
3.1、水洗:45℃,5分钟一次;3.1. Water washing: 45°C, once every 5 minutes;
3.2、酶洗:45℃,5分钟,PH=5,生物酶(液体)4克/升,45℃,2分钟三次;3.2. Enzyme washing: 45°C, 5 minutes, PH=5, biological enzyme (liquid) 4 g/L, 45°C, 2 minutes three times;
4、脱水、烘干(70℃)、称重;4. Dehydration, drying (70°C), weighing;
5、整理液处方:5. Prescription of finishing solution:
SMPU整理剂 70克/升SMPU finishing agent 70 g/L
单磷酸钠 17.5克/升Sodium Monophosphate 17.5 g/L
柔软剂FWL 30克/升Softener FWL 30 g/L
水 882.5克/升Water 882.5 g/L
按已准确称量的成衣(衣片)重量的70%吸取所需整理液,直接加入位于烘燥机顶部的喷雾储液罐内,待烘燥机缓慢转动后,开启喷雾装置开关,使喷雾储液罐内的整理液均匀的喷洒在置于旋转状态的成衣(或衣片)表面,至喷雾完成后使烘燥机继续旋转12-15分钟,使整理液被成衣(或衣片)均匀吸附并渗透为止。Absorb the required finishing solution according to 70% of the weight of the accurately weighed garment (garment piece), and directly add it to the spray liquid storage tank on the top of the dryer. After the dryer rotates slowly, turn on the switch of the spray device to make the spray The finishing liquid in the liquid storage tank is evenly sprayed on the surface of the garment (or garment piece) placed in the rotating state, and the dryer continues to rotate for 12-15 minutes after the spraying is completed, so that the finishing liquid is uniformly covered by the garment (or garment piece) adsorption and penetration.
6、松式烘干和冷风处理6. Loose drying and cold air treatment
将置于转笼式成衣烘干机内的成衣(衣片)在70-80℃条件下烘干至带液率20%(织物重);然后降温并打冷风,直至转笼式成衣烘干机内的成衣(衣片)的带液率为10%为止;然后取出转笼式成衣烘干机内的成衣(衣片),进行后续的熨烫和高温定型。Dry the garments (garment pieces) placed in the tumbler-type garment dryer at 70-80°C until the liquid-carrying rate is 20% (fabric weight); then cool down and blow cold air until the tumbler-type garments are dried The liquid-carrying rate of the garments (pieces) in the machine is up to 10%; then take out the garments (pieces) in the tumbler type garment dryer for subsequent ironing and high-temperature setting.
7、熨烫和高温定型7. Ironing and high temperature setting
采用常压蒸汽吹烫,每件成衣约(或衣片)需30秒,也可采用压烫机进行压烫。焙烘采用电热焙烘机,焙烘温度和时间依据成衣规格、组织及厚薄和整理要求而定,一般为150-170℃,8-12分钟。It takes about 30 seconds for each garment (or piece of clothing) to be ironed with atmospheric pressure steam, or it can be pressed with a pressing machine. Baking adopts an electric baking machine. The baking temperature and time are determined according to the specifications, structure, thickness and finishing requirements of the garment, generally at 150-170°C for 8-12 minutes.
8、冷却8. Cooling
焙烘后自然冷却,约10-12小时,冷却至室温或20-30℃,可获得好的手感和高的强力。Cool naturally after baking for about 10-12 hours, then cool to room temperature or 20-30°C to obtain good hand feeling and high strength.
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CN101994254B (en) * | 2009-08-31 | 2014-05-21 | 香港纺织及成衣研发中心 | Wool knitted fabric shape memory finishing agent and preparation method and application thereof |
CN102080313B (en) * | 2010-12-08 | 2012-09-05 | 中原工学院 | Pipelined clothes atomization post-treatment device applicable to nano after-finishing |
CN104452138A (en) * | 2013-09-12 | 2015-03-25 | 上海鼎天纺织品有限公司 | 3D (three-dimensional) softening finishing process of yarn-dyed jacquard fabric |
CN103541168A (en) * | 2013-10-25 | 2014-01-29 | 广西绢麻纺织科学研究所 | Semi-wet spraying method for finishing of fiber products |
CN103696238B (en) * | 2013-12-09 | 2016-01-20 | 常熟市凯丽针纺织有限公司 | The preparation method of knitted wool fold clothing |
CN104264452A (en) * | 2014-09-18 | 2015-01-07 | 常熟市凯丽针纺织有限公司 | Wrinkle treatment process of knitted fabrics |
CN105483919A (en) * | 2016-01-20 | 2016-04-13 | 石狮市鸿裕针织服饰有限公司 | Ultralight soft rib fabric and preparation method thereof |
CN106835723B (en) * | 2016-12-29 | 2019-03-05 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | The production method of the durable soft shirt of fragrance |
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