CN100334295C - High grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric - Google Patents
High grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN100334295C CN100334295C CNB2005101212785A CN200510121278A CN100334295C CN 100334295 C CN100334295 C CN 100334295C CN B2005101212785 A CNB2005101212785 A CN B2005101212785A CN 200510121278 A CN200510121278 A CN 200510121278A CN 100334295 C CN100334295 C CN 100334295C
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Abstract
The present invention relates to high grade three-mercerized pure cotton face fabric which is knitted cloth using mercerized cotton yarn as raw materials. The knitted cloth experiences mercerizing finishing, two-time calendering finishing and resin finishing. The present invention is the optimized product of pure cotton double-mercerized cloth and exerts the characteristics of the brightness, the high smoothness, etc. of the mercerized pure cotton face fabric to the greatest extent. The high grade three-mercerized pure cotton face fabric has the advantages of beautiful appearance of surface lines, softness, smoothness and proper matching of the colors of a main cloth body and auxiliary materials and belongs to the high grade product of pure cotton fabric. When in practical use, the brightness of the surface of the fabric can not disappear after washed for multiple times in a family.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the lining of textiles, particularly a kind of high grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric (ULTEMA KNIT).This lining is the more optimization product of textile two mercerized cloths, gloss behind the pure-cotton fabric mercerising is bright, characteristics such as fineness is good perform to best, surface pattern is more attractive in appearance, feel is softer, more sliding, and the color-match of main body and auxiliary material is good, belongs to the expensive goods of pure cotton fabric, the lustrous surface that makes fabric still can not disappear through gloss after the home washings repeatedly in actual use.
Background technology
At present, to the mercerized finish of pure cotton fabric, only limit to monofilament light and mariages light on the market, it can remedy the natural defect of cotton fiber gloss dimness, after mercerized finish to raw material and cloth, can make fabric have the characteristic of light, have the comfortableness of textile product simultaneously.Yet, along with the consumer group's consciousness is more and more higher, require also more and more diversifiedly, the feel of the textile mercerising lining of market demands wants better, softer, more sliding, gloss is brighter, promotes the class of textile mercerized cloth, make have silk quality gloss, the sense of more dangling.Therefore, determine exploitation to have more silkiness gloss and can have cotton material performance again concurrently to satisfy this market demand.To this, we have carried out concrete analysis to feasibility of the present invention:
1. the market demand
In recent years, show that conventional mercerising lining is difficult to satisfy all levels personage's demand again from client's a large amount of feedback informations and the finding in textile garment market.There is a collection of high consumption colony to wait in expectation on market, to buy luster effect and wears comfortable textile clothes, can more be better than the like product of European market with silk quality.If succeed in developing, not only make the class higher level of pure-cotton fabric, market prospects are also with considerable.
Technology and capacity of equipment
Reach this requirement, must on cloth glossiness, pliability, optimize.The application that knowhow adds cylinder mercerising technology and open-width mercerizing range of enriching for many years makes that the mercerized cloth kind is abundanter to conventional mercerising lining, mercerising series knit product from common plain weave, Zhu Dibu, FIGURED CLOTH, two-sided cloth to rib fabric, lycra cloth, bottom surface cloth or the like kind is complete, comprehensively adopts existing satinage technology to strengthen gloss and bright and clean again to the knitted fabric after the mercerising dyeing.Everything technological innovation of for this reason inventing provides hardware and software basis really up to the mark.
2. economy and social effect
At on the current market to the demand of this series products, in case this research and development of products success can march in the textile market of top grade immediately, selectively increase some back arrangements, value-added content of product will be far above other common like products.
Summary of the invention
Purpose of the present invention is intended to optimize existing mercerising technology, makes textile mercerising lining have more glossiness and fineness and a kind of high grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric (ULTEMA KNIT) of providing.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this:
A kind of high grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric, this lining are that the employing mercerized cotton yarn is the knitted cloth of raw material, and the organizine polishing is managed again, twice satinage and RESIN FINISH.
---described raw material is the cotton yarn behind the mercerising.
---described mercerized finish is to adopt cylinder mercerizing range or open width mercerizing range, and the knitted cloth that before dyeing or wash water operation the mercerising yarn is made into carries out mercerized finish.
---described twice satinage is to take before and after the typing calendering respectively once or preceding twice calendering of typing according to the difference of cloth kind structure to mariages light fabric.
---described RESIN FINISH is the mixed liquor that adopts resin finishing agent, catalyst, bleeding agent and softener to the arrangement of finalizing the design of fabric or clothing; In this mixed liquor, described resin finishing agent can be selected dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea (DMEU) for use, hydroxymethyl-2 dihydroxy-ethylene urea (DMDHEU) and dihydroxy methyl triazine copper (DMT), the compound of classes such as sex change N-methyl dihydroxy ethyl urea, and modifier modification hydroxymethyl-2 dihydroxy-ethylene urea resin for example, its consumption is a 20-120 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described catalyst can be some magnesium salts, nitrate, fluorine boron zinc salt etc., and its consumption is a 10-30 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described bleeding agent can be compound for example surfactant, the fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether type non-ionic surface active agent of ethyl aromatic aliphatic ether class of polyethenoxy ether class, and its consumption is a 1-4 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described softener can be selected CATION, anion or non-ionic silicone based softener for use; Use this mixed liquor finalize the design the arrangement temperature be at 140-180 ℃, the typing finishing time got final product in 1-5 minute.
---among the described knitted cloth, can implement the postprocessing working procedures of biology enzyme arrangement for the good fabric of braiding.
---described biology enzyme arrangement is to adopt bioactive enzyme that fabric is carried out catalytic reaction, removes the filoplume of fabric face.Described bioactive enzyme can be neutral and acid cellulose excision enzyme or the effective plain restriction endonuclease of neutral fibre, the acid cellulose restriction endonuclease of unhairing plumage, and its consumption is the 0.5-3 grams per liter, reacts 30-60 minute with fabric under 45-55 ℃ acid condition.
Below divide four aspects to set forth the present invention:
A, raw material and cloth kind selection aspect
For raw material, be a key factor that directly affects the lining performance.If will make it obtain the good sense of dangling, what raw materials quality must be very is good.For cloth cover effect that better highlights lining and the class that improves product, can adopt 137 high yarn count long wool cotton yarn compact spinning lines, fiber parallel stretch degree height in the yarn, bar are done even, bright and clean, make it have high anti-fluffing and anti-pilling performance, lines is clear, feel is more soft advantage.For example: 70S/1,80S/1 etc., for the factor of considering simultaneously to weave and cloth is heavy, can be optionally to single thread take plying or and twist thread, as 70S/2,80S/3,110S/3 etc.Then yarn is carried out mercerized finish, mercerising makes cotton fiber that violent swelling take place under alkali condition, the cross section of its fiber is circular from flat oval deformation, and naturally longitudinally reverse disappearance, the reflection of light area is bigger, more regular, make the gloss more beautiful of yam surface, fineness is better.
Knitted cloth kind to different structure is carried out three mercerized finishes, can make lining have good draping property and gloss, but also will select the cloth kind of different structure according to different clients' demand.For example, in facecloth, plain is that quality is the most stable, and drapability is best, the cloth kind that feel is soft, the most smooth.Also can carry out three mercerized finishes to two-sided cloth kind, figured texture weave cloth kind or the elastic force cloth kind organized of different tissues.
B, dyeing aspect
Aspect dyeing, can adopt and earlier mercerising yarn raw material is made into grey cloth mercerising, piece dyeing again, perhaps dye the mercerising yarn earlier and be woven into yarn-dyed fabric again, after mercerising, wash water again.The problem that textile product faced of traditional mercerising is not only the glossiness and the brightness of cloth cover, simultaneously also there is cloth in entering the dye vat process, to cause the faults such as dyeing flower, scratch and folding line of cloth cover, so dyeing can be used dyestuff, the auxiliary agent of external function admirable especially, strictness is controlled the adding of salt, alkali and temperature curve well to improve the dye-uptake of dyestuff, color outward appearance with regard to both can assurance obtaining also can obtain good cloth cover effect like this.
C, mercerized finish aspect
High grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric (ULTEMA KNIT) not only requires the yarn mercerising, simultaneously also to carry out mercerized finish to grey cloth, cylinder mercerizing range or open width mercerizing range are adopted in mercerized finish to fabric, the knitted cloth that before dyeing or wash water operation the mercerising yarn is made into carries out mercerized finish, improve its structure, performance with mercerising agent treated such as concentrated bases, and keep needed stable dimensions, strengthened the glossiness of fabric greatly.Wherein, concentration of lye 25 ± 5Be, 17 ± 5 ℃ of temperature, 10 ± 4 meters/minute of mercerising speed, fully neutralization behind the mercerising, wash water, oven dry in time reduce the cloth cover scratch.
D, satinage aspect
Fabric after mariages light (yarn mercerising, cloth mercerising) handled carries out satinage again, takes before and after typing calendering respectively once or preceding twice satinage of typing according to the difference of cloth kind structure to fabric.This technology is to utilize the plasticity of fiber under certain wet heat condition, by ganoid pressure steel rider roll compacting fabric, yarn is flattened, fibre fluff strikes the beam on fabric face, make fabric construction tight, it is more level and smooth that the surface becomes, and strengthened the regular reflection of fiber to light, present stronger gloss, it is smooth that feel also becomes.The lustrous surface that yet makes simultaneously fabric still can not disappear through gloss after the home washings repeatedly in actual use.
Should select corresponding calendering technology according to the concrete specification and the design feature of fabric when calendering, the strong point of outstanding source textile atones for one's shortcomings to greatest extent, guarantees to obtain level and smooth, bright and clean, soft hand feeling.Can not in satinage, adopt machine-made calendering technology.Main calender process settings, nip pressure are 20T-80T, and temperature is 40 ℃-80 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle be 10-60 rice/minute.
Through the finished product of at least twice satinage, no matter from the feel to the style and appearance effect, all will improve the class level of fabric greatly.
In the back arrangement of fabric, mainly fabric mercerized finish, twice satinage have comprehensively been adopted, need RESIN FINISH simultaneously and optionally be aided with the biology enzyme treatment technology, or some special finishing auxiliarieses improve the performance of fabric, improved the functional and practicality of fabric, brought unprecedented sensory effects and visual effect to knitwear.
1) adopt the biology enzyme treatment technology, at the requirement of client to product quality, this product not only requires good luster, and feel and filoplume effect also will be different from other like products.For this reason, can adopt advanced biology enzyme to handle targetedly, can improve the stiff drawback of fabric behind the mercerising, allow feel become smooth elegant, cloth cover is cleaner, has also increased vivider gloss simultaneously.But also will be according to yarn powerful and cloth kind structure formulate corresponding enzyme and wash technology, the cloth brute force of avoiding fragile yarn in ready-made clothes sewing process, to cause the pin hole and differ from.
2) wherein, RESIN FINISH can be the mixed liquor that adopts resin finishing agent, catalyst, bleeding agent and softener to the arrangement of finalizing the design of fabric or clothing, in this mixed liquor, described resin finishing agent can be selected dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea (DMEU) for use, hydroxymethyl-2 dihydroxy-ethylene urea (DMDHEU) and dihydroxy methyl triazine copper (DMT), the compound of classes such as sex change N-methyl dihydroxy ethyl urea, and modifier modification hydroxymethyl-2 dihydroxy-ethylene urea resin for example, its consumption generally is about 20-120 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described catalyst can be some magnesium salts, nitrate, fluorine boron zinc salt etc., and its consumption is for generally being about 10-30 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described bleeding agent can be compound for example surfactant, the fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether type non-ionic surface active agent of ethyl aromatic aliphatic ether class of polyethenoxy ether class, and its consumption generally is about 1-4 grams per liter mixed liquor; Use this mixed liquor finalize the design the arrangement temperature generally be at 140-180 ℃, the typing finishing time got final product in about 1-5 minute.Fabric by setting machine mechanism and chemical reagent shrinkproof, increase soft, increase effects such as hard, make fabric reach certain shrink, density, feel simultaneously, and can reach uniform, lines appearance effect clearly.
Can keep the back outward appearance of washing of fabric by above-mentioned rear finishing duplex process, any surface finish, thereby the appearance effect and the washing fastness of raising fabric.
D. technological process aspect
The control of physical index, color and special finishing effect to lining has been taken all factors into consideration in the production procedure of this invention, the further perfect stability of product quality.
Piece dyeing cloth: knitting → cloth → mercerising → dyeing → post processing fully → as to soap → fixation → as to dewater → control → open-width → oven dry → calendering → typing → preshrunk (→ calendering) → finished product inspection
Yarn-dyed fabric: mercerising dyeing yarn-knitting-be equipped with cloth-mercerising-wash water-dewater-control-dry-calendering-typing → preshrunk (→ calendering) → finished product inspection
Present mercerising or the mariages light lining of producing, all be based on alkali lye mercerising to fiber, can not realize the combination property utilization of higher glossiness and fineness and washability, and uncomprehensive employing satinage in the prior art, calendering utilizes the plasticity of fiber under certain wet heat condition, by ganoid pressure yarn is flattened, make fabric construction tight, it is more level and smooth that the surface becomes.Particularly, by the change of satinage to the cotton fiber shape, make feel be improved, draping property obtains the embodiment of fullest, and fabric presents stronger luster effect.
In sum, compare with existing mercerization pure cotton fabric, the present invention has the incomparable characteristic of other products:
1, adopt mercerising yarn raw material, make Yarn filoplume still less, gloss is brighter.
2, fabric has good feel through arrangement, thereby has good wearing comfort.
3, through behind the mercerising, the cross section of cotton fiber is circular from flat oval deformation, and the reflection of light area is bigger, makes cloth cover show very beautiful and bright-coloured gloss.Further adopt twice calendering technology, fabric is tightr, and the surface is more level and smooth, and gloss is brighter.
4, can comprehensively adopt processes such as biology enzyme processing and RESIN FINISH as the case may be, can keep the back appearance surfaces of washing of fabric bright and clean, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY is good, thereby improves the appearance effect and the Practical Performance of fabric.
The specific embodiment
Have effect below in conjunction with specific embodiment detailed description the solution of the present invention and institute, but can not constitute any qualification the scope of the present invention.
Embodiment one: 70,S/2 three mercerising single face plains
Collator Mode=mercerized finish, satinage, RESIN FINISH
The production method of the 70S/2 three mercerising single face plains in the present embodiment is as follows:
1, technological process:
Knitting-perching-each cloth-mercerising-dyeing-open-width-squezzing-oven dry-limit-calendering-typing-preshrunk-calendering-finished product inspection of tentering slurry
2, raw material:
Adopting the mercerized cotton of 70S/2 is raw material.
3, knitting:
Utilize the cotton yarn after mercerising is handled, be woven into the calicut of single-sided structure.
4, mercerization:
Adopt the cylinder mercerization,, clean mercerizing range before the mercerising earlier, require to use the alkali lye mercerising, concentration of lye 28 ± 1Be, 12 ℃ of temperature, 8 meters/minute of mercerising machine speeds for avoiding impression.
5, dyeing:
According to the normal dyeing operation: earlier that fabric is wetting, carried out pre-treatment 30 minutes under 95 ℃, 60 ℃ of dyeing 30 minutes down, carry out reduction cleaning with sodium hydrosulfite and NAOH, add acetic acid and neutralize.In order to guarantee the feel of fabric, add the organosilicon oils softener of 3 grams per liters, go out in time to arrange oven dry behind the cylinder, avoid occurring watermark, wind trace.
6, setting process:
What the typing arrangement was used is the mixed liquor of resin finishing agent, catalyst, softener and bleeding agent.
Resin finishing agent is selected the dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea for use, consumption 50 grams per liters; The RESIN FINISH catalyst is MgCl
2, consumption 12 grams per liters; Softener is silicone based softener, consumption 35 grams per liters; Typing is 1 grams per liter with the bleeding agent consumption.
The temperature of typing arrangement is at 170 ℃.
Through above-mentioned steps, promptly obtain the single face three mercerising plain clothes of the 70s/2 of present embodiment.
Claims (4)
1. high grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric, it is characterized in that: this lining is that the employing mercerized cotton yarn is the knitted cloth of raw material, pass through mercerized finish, twice satinage and RESIN FINISH again, described mercerized finish is to adopt cylinder mercerizing range or open width mercerizing range, the knitted cloth that before dyeing or wash water operation the mercerising yarn is made into carries out mercerized finish, concentration of lye is 25 ± 5 Be, and temperature is 17 ± 5 ℃, and mercerising speed is 10 ± 4 meters/minute; Described RESIN FINISH is the mixed liquor that adopts resin finishing agent, catalyst, bleeding agent and softener to the arrangement of finalizing the design of fabric or clothing; In this mixed liquor, described resin finishing agent is selected dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea (DMEU) for use, hydroxymethyl-2 dihydroxy-ethylene urea (DMDHEU) and dihydroxy methyl triazine copper (DMT), the compound and the modification hydroxymethyl-2 dihydroxy-ethylene urea resin thereof of sex change N-methyl dihydroxy ethyl urea, its consumption is a 20-120 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described catalyst is some magnesium salts, nitrate, fluorine boron zinc salt, and its consumption is a 10-30 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described bleeding agent is surfactant, the fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether type non-ionic surface active agent of the compound ethyl aromatic aliphatic ether of polyoxyethylene ether, and its consumption is a 1-4 grams per liter mixed liquor; Described softener is selected CATION, anion or non-ionic silicone softening agent for use; Use this mixed liquor finalize the design the arrangement temperature be at 140-180 ℃, the typing finishing time got final product in 1-5 minute.
2. high grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described twice satinage is to take before and after the typing calendering respectively once or preceding twice calendering of typing according to the difference of cloth kind structure to mariages light fabric.
3. high grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: among the described knitted cloth, implement the postprocessing working procedures of biology enzyme arrangement for the good fabric of braiding.
4. high grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric according to claim 6, it is characterized in that: described biology enzyme arrangement is to adopt bioactive enzyme that fabric is carried out catalytic reaction, remove the filoplume of fabric face, described bioactive enzyme is neutral and acid cellulose excision enzyme or the effective plain restriction endonuclease of neutral fibre, the acid cellulose restriction endonuclease of unhairing plumage, its consumption is the 0.5-3 grams per liter, reacts 30-60 minute with fabric under 45-55 ℃ acid condition.
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| CNB2005101212785A CN100334295C (en) | 2005-12-29 | 2005-12-29 | High grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric |
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| CNB2005101212785A CN100334295C (en) | 2005-12-29 | 2005-12-29 | High grade three-mercerization pure cotton fabric |
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| CN100334295C true CN100334295C (en) | 2007-08-29 |
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Families Citing this family (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101403157B (en) * | 2008-10-20 | 2011-04-13 | 无锡市天然纺织实业有限公司 | Slurry-free shirt face fabric with cotton warp and production method thereof |
| CN101736590B (en) * | 2010-01-14 | 2013-03-27 | 嵊州盛泰色织科技有限公司 | Processing method for enabling fabrics containing cotton to have enduring luster |
| CN101899740A (en) * | 2010-07-21 | 2010-12-01 | 无锡市天然纺织实业有限公司 | Method for manufacturing cool cotton knitting fabric |
| CN102011243B (en) * | 2010-11-03 | 2012-07-04 | 宁波人丰家纺有限公司 | Method for preparing double-mercerized yarn-dyed jacquard fabric |
| CN102505404B (en) * | 2011-09-14 | 2016-03-09 | 葛江波 | A kind of trimming process of double-mercerized cotton knitted silk-like fabric |
| CN103184606B (en) * | 2013-03-28 | 2016-02-03 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | Yarn and utilization increase yarn natural resiliency and improve the flexible production method of textiles |
| CN104005146B (en) * | 2014-06-12 | 2015-06-17 | 张家港市格莱美服饰有限公司 | Mercerized cotton knitted printed fabric |
| CN105421097B (en) * | 2015-12-18 | 2017-11-28 | 上海雅运纺织助剂有限公司 | A kind of dyeing and finishing processing method of acetate fiber/polyester fibre containing textile |
| CN105986473A (en) * | 2016-05-25 | 2016-10-05 | 浙江三元纺织有限公司 | Post curing finishing method for cotton type trousering |
| CN107630361A (en) * | 2017-08-13 | 2018-01-26 | 浙江雅雪染整有限公司 | Silicone oil soft technology in one kind knitting fabric bath |
| CN112342667A (en) * | 2020-10-29 | 2021-02-09 | 华纺股份有限公司 | High-glossiness washing-resistant pure cotton jacquard fabric and production process thereof |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN1408939A (en) * | 2002-07-26 | 2003-04-09 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Method for no-ironing finishing of pure cotton textile |
| CN1570249A (en) * | 2004-05-12 | 2005-01-26 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | Dressing process for bringing smooth hand feeling, elasticity and natural style to cotton textiles |
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Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1408939A (en) * | 2002-07-26 | 2003-04-09 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Method for no-ironing finishing of pure cotton textile |
| CN1570249A (en) * | 2004-05-12 | 2005-01-26 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | Dressing process for bringing smooth hand feeling, elasticity and natural style to cotton textiles |
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