CH720045A2 - Process for manufacturing a decorative component of a watch, a fashion item or an item of jewelry. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method of manufacturing a trim component (10) of a watch, a fashion item or an item of jewelry, comprising the following steps: – depositing a internal layer (12) on all or part of the surface of an internal face (110) of a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, – localized ablation of the internal layer (12), so as to retain a part of said internal layer (12) on a first portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), said ablation being carried out so as to form at least one pocket opening onto a second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11) and so as to structure said second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), – surface treatment of the internal layer (12) and of the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate ( 11).

Description

Technical field of the invention

[0001] The invention relates to the field of watchmaking, fashion items, jewelry or jewelry, and relates more particularly to a method of manufacturing a component for dressing a watch, a fashion item, jewelry or jewelry and a method of manufacturing such a covering component.

[0002] In the present text, the notion of “fashion article” includes articles or accessories of clothing, such as belts, shoes, clothing, etc., and also includes articles of eyewear, articles of telephone, or any other decorative object.

Technology background

[0003] In the field of watchmaking in particular, the exterior components for watches, in particular dials, flange, bezels, etc., can have, for decorative purposes, decorations made from thin layers deposited on the surface of a substrate.

[0004] Depending on the size and number of details of the decoration of the covering component, the latter can be relatively complex to produce. In particular, when the decoration is formed by a combination of structures on a substrate and a thin layer deposited on the substrate, the alignment tolerances of the thin layer with respect to the structures are particularly complicated to respect.

[0005] Generally speaking, we also find the aforementioned problems in the fields of fashion articles, jewelry or jewelry.

[0006] In this context, the present invention aims to improve the precision and quality of the decorations of a dressing component of a watch, a fashion item, jewelry or jewelry.

[0007] In particular, the invention solves the problem of respecting the tolerances for aligning the decorations on a covering component, in particular the alignment of a thin layer with respect to the structures of a face of a substrate on which said thin layer is deposited.

Summary of the invention

[0008] The invention relates, for this purpose, to a method of manufacturing a component for dressing a watch, a fashion item or an item of jewelry, comprising the following steps: – deposition of an internal layer on all or part of the surface of an internal face of a substrate made of a transparent material, – localized ablation of the internal layer, so as to retain part of said internal layer on a first portion of the internal face of the substrate, said ablation being carried out so as to form at least one pocket opening onto a second portion of the internal face of the substrate and so as to structure said second portion of the internal face of the substrate, – surface treatment of the internal layer and the internal face of the substrate.

[0009] In particular embodiments, the invention may also include one or more of the following characteristics, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.

[0010] In particular modes of implementation, during a polishing step carried out before the step of depositing the internal layer, the internal face of the substrate is polished.

[0011] In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer and the internal face of the substrate, a step of etching the internal layer in which a part of the internal layer is eliminated so as to conform said layer to a predefined shape, without the internal face of the substrate being impacted.

[0012] In particular modes of implementation, the localized ablation step of the internal layer is carried out by laser beam.

[0013] In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises a step of etching the substrate carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate, without impacting the internal face, nor an external face of said substrate opposite the internal face.

[0014] In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises the following steps: – deposition of an external layer on all or part of the surface of an external face of the substrate, – localized ablation and/or etching of the outer layer, – surface treatment of the outer layer.

[0015] In particular modes of implementation, the step of localized ablation of the external layer is carried out so as to: – retain part of the external layer on a first portion of the external face of the substrate, – form at least one pocket opening onto a second portion of the external face of the substrate, said second portion extending at least opposite the second portion of the internal face of the substrate, and – structure said second portion of the external face of said substrate.

[0016] In particular modes of implementation, the step of etching the external layer is carried out so that part of the external layer is eliminated in order to conform said external layer according to a predefined shape, without the face external surface of the substrate is not impacted.

[0017] In particular modes of implementation, the step of etching the outer layer is advantageously carried out so that the inner layer is visible through the substrate.

[0018] In particular modes of implementation, a polishing step in which the external face of the substrate is polished is carried out before the steps of depositing the external and internal layers.

[0019] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a watch dial formed by implementing the method as previously described.

[0020] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a fashion article comprising a covering component formed by implementing the method as previously described.

Brief description of the figures

[0021] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the following detailed description given by way of non-limiting example, with reference to the appended drawings in which: – Figure 1 shows schematically in sectional view, a covering component being produced by implementing a step of a manufacturing process according to the invention, – Figures 2 to 5 schematically represent in sectional view, a covering component obtained by the implementation of the manufacturing process according to the invention in different examples of implementation.

Note that the figures are not to scale.

Detailed description of the invention

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a covering component 10 as shown in Figures 2 to 5 in different examples of implementation of said method.

[0024] The invention can advantageously constitute a component for dressing a watch, such as a dial, a component for dressing a fashion item, or an item of jewelry.

[0025] The terms “fashion articles” define in the present text any article or accessory of clothing, such as a belt, a shoe, a piece of clothing, etc., and also includes articles of eyewear, articles of telephony, such as phone cases, or any decorative object.

The manufacturing process comprises a first step of depositing a thin layer, called “internal layer” 12, on all or part of the surface of an internal face 110 of a substrate 11 made of a transparent material, as shown in Figure 1. It should be noted that the term “transparent” designates in this text an ability of a material to allow all or part of light radiation to pass through, in particular light visible to the eye. naked eye. Such a transparent material can be sapphire, glass, etc.

The internal face 110 of the substrate 11 is opposite an external face 111 from which a user is intended to see a decoration of the covering component 10, through said substrate 11. More particularly, the external face 111 is intended to be oriented towards an external environment and the internal face 110 is intended to be oriented towards an internal environment, for example facing a watch movement, in the case in which the covering component 10 is a component of a watch.

Such a deposition can be carried out by physical vapor deposition method, chemical vapor deposition method, or by any other appropriate method. For example, the internal layer 12 can be made of metallic material, in particular Cr, Au, Ti, Zr, or of dielectric material, alone or in alloy.

Preferably, the internal face 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step, prior to the deposition of the internal layer 12.

[0030] The method subsequently comprises a step of localized ablation of the internal layer 12, so as to form one or more pockets 14 opening onto the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, and at the same time, to structure said face internal 110 at the level of the or each of the pockets 14 in order to produce a structuring 112, as shown in Figure 2.

Naturally, the method can include several localized ablation steps, so as to produce several structurings 112. In particular, the ablation steps can be carried out with different parameters so as to produce structurings 112 with different appearances. . However, in the present description of the invention, reference is made below to a single structure 112 to facilitate reading of the text. The notion of “structuring” here defines a surface whose state, that is to say the topography, has been modified and this can consist of satin finishing, texturing, engraving, etc.

It should be noted that the parameters used for implementing the ablation step(s) are determined according to the desired appearance of the structure(s) 112, their determination being within the reach of man. of career.

[0033] At the end of the localized ablation step, the part of the internal layer 12 not impacted by the ablation rests against a first portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 and the pockets 14 open onto a second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, said second portion of the internal face 110 being structured. Thus, structuring 112 coincides perfectly with the pocket 14 with which it is generated. Compliance with the alignment tolerances of the internal layer 12 with the structuring 112 of the internal face 110 is therefore guaranteed.

The local ablation of the internal layer 12, and consequently, the structuring 112 of the second portion of the internal face 110, is preferably carried out by laser beam. Alternatively, the local ablation step can be carried out by mechanical machining, such as by robotic engraving with a diamond tip, by chemical machining, etc.

[0035] A step of surface treatment of the internal layer 12 and the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, in particular of the second portion of said internal face 110, is subsequently carried out. Such treatment may consist of the deposition of a layer of anti-reflective coating or of a coating consisting of a layer of metallic, organic, ceramic, semiconductor material, oxide, carbide, nitride, lacquer or E-mail.

Advantageously, in an example of implementation, the method according to the invention may comprise, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer 12 and the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, a step etching of the internal layer 12 in which a part of the internal layer 12 is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 being impacted, as shown in Figure 3.

[0037] Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.

[0038] Advantageously, the method may include a step of etching the substrate 11 carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate 11, without impacting the internal face 110, nor an external face 111 of said substrate 11. opposite the internal face 110. This characteristic makes it possible to enrich the decoration generated by the implementation of the method according to the invention.

[0039] In an example of implementation, the method according to the invention may comprise a step of depositing a thin layer, called "external layer" 13, on all or part of the surface of an external face 110 of the substrate 11, followed by a localized ablation step of the outer layer 13, as shown in Figure 4.

The ablation is carried out so that part of the outer layer 13 is retained on a first portion of the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, and so as to form at least one pocket 15 opening onto a second portion of the external face 110 of the substrate 11 and to structure, at the same time, said second portion of the external face 110. In order to generate an attractive decoration, the second portion of the external face 111 extends at least opposite the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11. Thus, the internal layer 12 and the structuring 112 are visible through the pocket 15.

In addition or alternatively to the step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13, the method may comprise a step of etching the outer layer 13, in a manner analogous to the step of etching the inner layer 12. Such an etching step is shown in Figure 5, in combination with the step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13. The step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that part of the layer external face 13 is eliminated in order to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the external face 111 of the substrate 11 being impacted. Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.

[0042] The result of the step of etching the outer layer 13 is shown in Figure 5, on which is also visible the inner layer 12 shaped in a predefined shape at the end of the step of etching the layer internal 12, as described above in the text.

In other words, the internal 12 and external 13 layers can both be eliminated locally so as to generate specific decorations. In particular, the step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that the inner layer 12 is visible through the substrate 11. In other words, the step of etching the outer layer 13 is carried out by so that a projection of the internal layer 12 on the external surface 111 of the substrate 11 extends beyond the external layer 13, as shown in Figure 5.

The outer layer 13 and the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, in particular the second portion of said outer face 111, can subsequently be subjected to a surface treatment, for example as described previously for the inner layer 12 and the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11.

[0045] Advantageously, the external face 111 of the substrate can be polished during a polishing step carried out before the step of depositing the external layer 13 and before the step of depositing the internal layer 12, in order to avoid to damage said layers.

[0046] Note that, thanks to the characteristics of the invention, the visual appearance of the decoration of the covering component 10 can be particularly rich and attractive to the extent that the contrast between the possible difference in colors of the internal layer 12 and the external layer 13, is added the contrast between the different surface states of the portions of the internal face 110 and the external face 111 of the substrate 11, on which said layers are respectively deposited. Furthermore, the method according to the invention makes it possible to generate a visual effect of depth between the internal 12 and external 13 layers.

More generally, it should be noted that the modes of implementation and embodiment considered above have been described by way of non-limiting examples, and that other variants are therefore possible.

In particular, the internal layer 12 and/or the external layer 13 can be constituted by a stack of thin layers, in a manner known per se to those skilled in the art.

Claims (12)

1. Method for manufacturing a trim component (10) of a watch, a fashion item or an item of jewelry, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: – deposition of an internal layer (12) on all or part of the surface of an internal face (110) of a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, – localized ablation of the internal layer (12), so as to retain a part of said internal layer (12) on a first portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), said ablation being carried out so as to form minus one pocket (14) opening onto a second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11) and so as to structure said second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), – surface treatment of the internal layer (12) and the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11). 2. Method according to claim 1, wherein during a polishing step carried out before the step of depositing the internal layer (12), the internal face (110) of the substrate is polished. 3. Method according to one of claims 1 or 2, comprising, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer (12) and the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11) , a step of etching the internal layer (12) in which part of the internal layer (12) is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face (110) of the substrate (11) not is impacted. 4. Manufacturing method according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the step of localized ablation of the internal layer (12) is carried out by laser beam. 5. Manufacturing method according to one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a step of etching the substrate (11) carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate (11), without impacting the face internal (110), nor an external face (111) of said substrate (11) opposite the internal face (110). 6. Manufacturing process according to one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the following steps: – deposition of an external layer (13) on all or part of the surface of an external face (111) of the substrate (11), – localized ablation and/or etching of the outer layer (13), – surface treatment of the outer layer (13). 7. Manufacturing method according to claim 6, in which the step of localized ablation of the external layer (13) is carried out so as to: – keep part of the outer layer (13) on a first portion of the outer face (111) of the substrate (11), – form at least one pocket (15) opening onto a second portion of the external face (111) of the substrate (11), said second portion extending at least opposite the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), and – structure said second portion of the external face (110) of said substrate (11). 8. Method according to claim 6 or 7, in which the step of etching the outer layer (13) is carried out so that part of the outer layer (13) is eliminated in order to conform said outer layer (13) according to a predefined shape, without the external face (111) of the substrate (11) being impacted. 9. Method according to claim 8, in which the step of etching the outer layer (13) is advantageously carried out so that the inner layer (12) is visible through the substrate (11). 10. Method according to one of claims 6 to 9, in which, a polishing step in which the external face (111) of the substrate is polished, is carried out before the steps of deposition of the external (13) and internal (12) layers. ). 11. Watch dial characterized in that it is formed by implementing the method according to one of claims 1 to 10. 12. Fashion item characterized in that it comprises a covering component formed by implementing the method according to one of claims 1 to 10.