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CA1156151A - Process for permanently waving of human hair - Google Patents

Process for permanently waving of human hair

Info

Publication number
CA1156151A
CA1156151A CA000378804A CA378804A CA1156151A CA 1156151 A CA1156151 A CA 1156151A CA 000378804 A CA000378804 A CA 000378804A CA 378804 A CA378804 A CA 378804A CA 1156151 A CA1156151 A CA 1156151A
Authority
CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
alkaline
wrapped
sufficient
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
CA000378804A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Colleen D. Riddle
Morton A. Westman
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
La Maur Inc
Original Assignee
La Maur Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by La Maur Inc filed Critical La Maur Inc
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CA1156151A publication Critical patent/CA1156151A/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

PROCESS FOR PERMANENTLY WAVING OF HUMAN HAIR
Abstract of the Disclosure Natural hair on the head of a human being may be expeditiously permanently waved by a succession of chemical treatments. After the hair has been freshly shampooed and towel dried, The hair is subjected to treatment with a pre-wrap solution composed of an alkaline mercaptan. The treated hair is then wrapped on permanent waving rods, and is, thereafter subjected to a succession of treatments with an alkaline mercaptan composition in such a manner as to quickly soften the strands of hair so that they may conform lo the curvature of the waving rods, whereafter the hair is rinsed and treated with a mildly acidic solution -to reset the bonds in the hair as they were maintained during the curl operation.

Description

1 1561~ 1 1 This invention relates to improvements in a process for expedi-tiously permanently waving human hair on the head of an individual by the use oE chemical compositions in what is termed a cold waving procedure.
The cold waving procedure is formed by dividing the hair into tresses and wrapping each tress on a mechanical device of suitable shape or dimension, such as rods or rolle~s.
The tress on each device is then treated with a waving lotion which, in general, is a chemcial composition having the capacity to disrupt the disulfide bonds of the hair keratin so that the hair becomes soft and pliant and will conform to the curvature of the device or rod on which it is wound.
Thereafter, a second chemical solution, which ac-ts as a stabilizer, is applied to the tresses to neutralize the waving lotion and reestablish the disulfide bonds of the hair keratin~
so that the hair retains the curvature or curl resulting from the treatment~ There exist many different types of waving lotions which, in general, can be divided into two groups;

those designated as "home" permanent waving lotions intended for amateur use and, therefore, relatively weak in qualities that might cause harm to the hair or skin, and on the other hand so-called "professional" waving lotions, which are more potent, and therefore, require use by skilled operators.
Considering those lotions intended for professional use, it is a highly desirable characteristic that they may react with the hair in a minimum amount of time, for the economy of the operator's services, as well as economy in the space and equipment required $or customer treatment.

, In the conventional practice of professionally waving hair, the hair and scalp are thoroughly shampooed in the usual manner and then water rinsed, and while the hair is still damp, it is divided into tresses which are wrapped onto rods or rollers, and a waving lotion is applied to the wrapped hair. However, because the hair of each customer is different in quality, special care mus-t be exercised in the selection of an appropriate waving lotion, for there are a variety of different kinds of waving lotions on the market intended for use on hair of varying qualities.

The term "normal hair'l as used herein refers to human hair which has not been significantly damaged. Hair may be damaged by excessive exposure to sunlight, and possibly by action of sea water, as well as other natural causes; however, there is no doubt but that hair is seriously damaged by tinting or other chemical treatment. In other words, a waving lotion used on damaged hair must be of a milder character than a lotion intended for use on normal hair. However, even w:ith different lotions, or lotions of different strengths, the time element for the appropriate lotion to produce softening or chemical change of the hair has been an uncertain factor, producing a variance in reaction time between as little as 10 minutes on the one hand to as much as 45 or 60 minutes on the other hand. The size of the perm rods will also vary the processing time. In some instances, the chemical reaction between the lotion and the hair has been accelerated by enclosing the treated hair in a plastic cap, and then placing the customer under an electric hair dryer which is positioned to enclose the capped hair. In any instance, to make sure of a proper reaction between the lotion and the hair, the operator has heretofore made a series of tests which are performed periodically during the perm treatment by opening a tress wound
- 2 -11~6151 1 on one of the mechanical deyices to obser~e the degree of curl that the hair has assumed. When a curl of acceptable curvature has occurred, the waving loti~on is rinsed from the hair, ancl the cond;tion of the hair is stabilized by the application of a neutrali~ing lotion that is frequently a weak acidic peroxide solution. Thereafter the chemicals are rinsed from the hair by water washing, and a suitable coiffure is established by the operator.

According to the present invention, a process or procedure is provided for application or use by professionally skilled operators which not only provides for a material saving of treatment time, but which also eliminates any uncertainty in t~e processing of the treatment of the hair. Avoiding uncertainty of the treatment of the hair is highly important, for on the one hand, if the treatment has been inadequate, the curls or waves in the hair are weak and will have little lasting quality, whereas, on the other hand, if the chemical treatment has been excessive, the hair may be seriously damaged. In fact, it could be rendered incapable of holding any curl at all.
As a prelude to the practice of the present invention, the hair is prepared for the perm treatment by a series of procedures or steps. First the hair and scalp are cleaned by a thorough shampoo, followed by ample water rinsing, after which the operator carefully observes the hair and scalp befo~e administering any other treatment. If there are any sores or abrasions on the scalp, the customer should be advised, and the operator should not proceed with any chemical treatment.
The condition of the hair should also be observed, for if it is damaged, this will control the selection of the compositions to be used. Moreover, if the hair requires cuttin~ or trimming, it is performed at this stage of the procedure.
- 3 -~,~

115615~L
1 Assuming the scalp to be healthy and the hair in a normal condition, the latter is combed while adding a first chemical composition in the form of a pre-wrap lotion in an amount suff;~cient to wet the hair, ~ut without wetting the scalp. This lotion is composed of materials that will initiate softening of the hair by a reduction of the disulfide linkages of the hair keratin. The hair is then sectioned, and re-wetted with the pre-wrap solution.

The hair which has now been twice treated with the pre-wrap solution is then divided into tresses, each of which is wrapped onto suitable mechanical devices in the form of rods or rollers. The size or structure of the rods or rollers is chosen to g~ve curls or waves of a desired size; however, the selection of narrow rods will permit the waving lo-tion to react faster with the hair structure. When the tresses have been satisfactorily wrapped on the devices, a second or final waving lotion is applied in two successive steps to the~wrapped hair, and this lotion produces the final softening or waving of the tresses of hair. Thereafter the treated hair is water rinsed and then treated with a neutralizing lotion, whereafter the hair is removed from the rods, again water rinsed to remove the chemical therefrom. Finally, the hair is properly dried and styled in a suitable coiffure.
As-for the composition and character of the lotions which are applied to the hair, including both the pre-wrap lotion and the final waving lotion, they are to a limited degree similar to softening and waving lotions used in the prior art. There are many different forms of-mercaptans which have to some degree the characteristics necessary for softening and waving hair. If has been found, however, that thioglycolic acid in an alkaline solution with an excess of alkali produces the best results. Moreover, it has been found 1 that ammoniu~ thioglycolate w~i,th.a~ excess of free ammonia i5 believed -tQ be the best composi.tion for both pre-wrapping the hair and the final waving treat~ent. It is, of course, recognized that the hair of di:Eferent persons will vary in their qualities. It is also recognized that hair which has undergone previous chemical treatment, such as tinting ! will be damaged and will, therefore, require treatment with a milder solution than would normally be re~uired for normal healthy hair. These different qualities in hair are recognizable to a skilled beautician, who would, therefore, ~e capable of selecting appropriate lotions for use in each particular instance. Thus, there are currently available on the market hair treati.ng lotions whose conten, of ammonium thioglycolate.
will vary between about 2% as a minimum to about 10% as a maximum. The free alkali content, e~pressed as free ammoni.a, in these lotions will vary between as little as about 0.5%
to as much.as about 2%. Based on these facts, a suitable pre-wrap lotion for normal hair might contain approximately 7.5% ammonium thioglycolate with.about 1.6% free ammonia; while a pre-wrap composition for tinted hair might ~e a low as about 3% to 5% an~onium thioglycolate containing f:rom about 0.5% to about 1% of free ammonia. The final treatment loti.on for normal hair might contain about 9% to-10% of ammonia thioglycolate with about 1.5% to 2% of free ammonia, while a final solution for tinted hair might contain about 5%.to 6%
of ammonium thioglycolate with about 1.5% to 1.75% of free ammonia.
The following constitutes a preferred manner of performing the process:

(a) Upon complet~on of the usual thorough shampoo, the hair is thoroughly water rinsed, and the excess wa-ter is removed ... ~.

~15~151 to at least a -towel blo-tted state.
(b~ The hair is carefully combed and the operator -then applies for -the first -~ime the pre-wrap solution to the hair, while avoiding application to the scalp. The solution is added in a quantity to thoroughly wet the hair and initiate the softening action thereof .
(c~ The treated hair is divided into sections and a second application of the pre-wrap lotion is again applied to all of the sectioned hair.
(d) In the case of damaged hair, or fine hair, it may be re-wetted with water, rather than the pre-wrap solution.
(e) The twice treated hair is then divided into tresses and each tress is wrapped onto a suitable rod or roller, and this action continues until all of the tresses have been wrapped and secured.
(f) To the thus treated, wrapped hair, the second liquid composition, or waving lotion is applied by application to the rods or rollers in a sufficient quantity to thoroughly wet tne hair, but without wetting the scalp, (g) Any excess of liquid is then removed from the wrapped hair by a blotting action of a towel, or the like.
(h) There is then applied to the wrapped hair a second application of the second solution or waving lotion to thoroughly re-wet the hair and complete the reduction of the disulfide linkages within the hair.
This action occurs quite rapidly.
(i) The wrapped treated hair is stabilized by first rinsing the waving lotions from the hair with water. This is followed by application of a neutralizing liquid, such as hydrogen peroxide, which is followed by a final water rinse to remove all chemicals from the hair. The rods or rollers are removed during this treatment.
(j) The treated hair is then suitably dried, and arranged in a suitable style or coiffure.
The procedures set forth hereinbefore are eompre-hensible to a skilled beautician. The reactions which occur with the two applications of the pre-wrap solution and the first aoplication of the final waving solution seeming]y pro-duce only normal reaction with the hair keratin; however, thereaction of the second application of the second composition is of a synergistic nature in the rapidity with which the hair reacts. Seemingly the reaction is almost instantaneous.
This will be readily visible when the alkaline compositions are removed by water washing.
The advantages of the invention will be readily apparent to a skilled beautician in that uncertainty in the t'^eatment of hair is removed with assurance that there is sufficiert treatment to produce curls of desired permanents, bu, wi~hout over treatment or damage that may occur through prolonged t:reatment with excessively strong compositions.

Claims (3)

That which is claimed is:
1. A method of permanently waving natural hair on a human head, comprising the steps of:
(a) applying to said hair a first composition comprising a blend of an alkaline mercaptan and free alkali in a concentration sufficient to initiate reduction of the disulfide linkages of the hair keratin;
(b) wrapping the treated hair on a plurality of mechanical devices, each of a dimension sufficient to produce curvature in the wrapped hair;
(c) applying to said wrapped hair in at least two successive steps, a second composition comprising a blend of an alkaline mercaptan and a free alkaline concentration greater than that of the said first composition to further soften the hair to conform to the curvature of said devices; and (d) water rinsing and neutralizing said alkaline composition which is present on the hair sufficient to permit reformation of the disulfide linkages in the reformed hair keratin.
2. A method of permanently waving natural hair on a human head, comprising the steps of:
(a) applying to said hair a liquid composition comprising a blend of an alkaline mercaptan and free alkali in a concentration sufficient to initiate reduction of the disulfide linkages of the hair;
(b) reapplying to the hair an additional quantity of the liquid composition referred to in step (a) hereof in a quantity sufficient to assure wetness of said hair, (c) wrapping the treated hair onto a multiplicity of cylindrical mechanical devices having shapes sufficient to produce curvature in the hair strands;
(d) applying to the said treated wrapped hair a second liquid composition comprising a blend of an alkaline mercaptan and free alkali in which the concentration of alkali is greater than that of the first named composition;
(e) blotting the wrapped treated hair to remove excess liquid present on the surface of the hair;
(f) reapplying to said wrapped hair a second application of said second liquid composition in an amount to produce wetness of the hair;
and (g) water rinsing said hair to remove said alkaline compositions therefrom and applying to said hair a weakly acid composition in a concentration sufficient to permit reformation of the disulfide linkages of the hair.
3. A method of permanently waving natural hair on a human head, comprising the steps of:
(a) cleansing said hair with a detergent and water rinsing the detergent from said hair, (b) applying to the freshly washed hair a composition comprising a blend of an alkaline mercaptan and free alkali in a concentration sufficient to initiate reduction of the disulfide linkages of the hair keratin;
(c) dividing the treated hair into tresses and wrapping each tress thereof on an individual cylindrical hair curling device, (d) applying to the thus wrapped hair in two successive steps a composition comprising a blend of an alkaline mercaptan and free alkali in a concentration such that with the application of the second of said successive steps, the strands of hair will have been substantially softened to the extent that the wrapped hair conforms to the curvature of said curling device, and (e) water rinsing and neutralizing said alkaline composition present on the hair sufficient to stabilize the condition of the hair to permit reformation of the disulfide linkages of the reformed hair keratin.
CA000378804A 1980-07-01 1981-06-02 Process for permanently waving of human hair Expired CA1156151A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US16514280A 1980-07-01 1980-07-01
US165,142 1980-07-01

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CA1156151A true CA1156151A (en) 1983-11-01

Family

ID=22597606

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CA000378804A Expired CA1156151A (en) 1980-07-01 1981-06-02 Process for permanently waving of human hair

Country Status (2)

Country Link
CA (1) CA1156151A (en)
GB (1) GB2081578B (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2131461B1 (en) * 1997-03-25 2000-03-16 Alfaro M Dolores Garcia PROCEDURE TO SHORTEN THE TIME OF EXPOSURE OF THE HAIR TO THE CHEMICAL AGENTS OF HAIRDRESSING SESSIONS.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB2081578A (en) 1982-02-24
GB2081578B (en) 1984-08-22

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