Updated version of this PhD thesis has been published at BAR International Series 2369 (2012).
... more Updated version of this PhD thesis has been published at BAR International Series 2369 (2012).
This doctoral thesis is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to the Republican period. Textile production is studied here through its technological, social and economic aspects. This dissertation presents new insights on the importance of textile-making in the ancient society and economy. Textiles and their making were important parts of all fields of life in ancient Italy.
Textiles and textile implements are found from settlement sites, burials, votive deposits and sanctuaries. The differences between the finds from diff erent contexts through time point out the changes in material culture related to textile-making. The changes in the materials also indicate the change from household production of textiles to a workshop
mode of production and specialisation and later on slave work. Through the scope of this study textile production went through the introduction of many new technologies;
for example the warp-weighted loom was finally replaced by the two-beam loom. Also, the changes in the making of the implements point to the changes in the society and the
economic structures.
Textile-making is a process that starts from the selection of fibres and leads through many steps to the final product. The techniques used in central Tyrrhenian Italy are reconstructed through the source materials: textile tools, surviving textiles, written and iconographic sources and the data is combined with the results of experimental archaeology. Although a necessity textile production is also a very time consuming activity and as such had a great economic importance in the ancient society. The changes in the production through time insisted for a greater specialisation of textile makers as
indicated by the archeological materials from the early Iron Age onwards and the skill of textile-making became something that was highly valued within the society. Textile-making was a virtue of women. A single spindle whorl became something of a marker for female gender and also the most common grave good given to women. Textiles were mainly done by women, but the importance of children in the field
of textile production in antiquity is also to be noted. The archeological materials show that children, also some boys were taught the basics of the craft maybe as early as at the
age of three or four. However, the learning of textile-making was started in earnest as a juvenile. Everybody did not become as skilled and the skill level needed for special
techniques and professionalism was achieved only by some. Th ey can generally be recognised from the burial materials through the multiple tool sets. The question of the importance of textile-making is approached in this thesis
through diff erent angles concerning age, gender, ethnicity, social status, profession and religion. T rough this a new insight on the multifaceted identity of textile makers and
their social status is built.
Sanna Lipkin and Tiina Kuokkanen: Man buried in his everyday clothes – attire and social status in early modern Oulu
Carol Christiansen, Lena Hammarlund and Martin Ciszuk: Under- standing woollen cloth production through reconstructions: a case study from Shetland
Krista Vajanto: Textile standards in experimental archaeology
Francesco Meo: From archaeological finds to high quality textile
fabrics: new data from Herakleia, southern Basilicata, Italy
Alessandro Quercia and Lin Foxhall: Weaving relationships in ar- eas of cultural contacts: production, use and consumption of loom weights in pre-Roman Sicily
Riina Rammo: Tradition and transition: the technology and usage of plant-fibre textiles in Estonian rural areas in the 11th–17th cen- turies
Krista Vajanto: Finnish shipwreck textiles from the 13th–18th cen- turies AD
Contents
Anna-Kaisa Salmi, Tiina Äikäs, Sanna Lipkin: Introduction
Visa Immonen: The mess befor... more Contents
Anna-Kaisa Salmi, Tiina Äikäs, Sanna Lipkin: Introduction
Visa Immonen: The mess before the modern – Karen Barad’s agential realism and periodization in Medieval archaeology in Finland
Anna-Kaisa Salmi: Man’s best friends? The treatment of the remains of dogs, cats and horses in early modern northern Finland
Minna Lehtola: hoWhy theory and the cultural transition in the Sakha Republic
Pirjo Hamari: Signifying Roman in the east – Identity and material culture in Roman archaeology
Paula Kouki: Changing times, continuing traditions: the transfer of religious traditions at Jabal Harun
Sanna Lipkin: Textile-making and religion in central Tyrrhenian Italy
Juha Tuppi: A walk through the valley of death: The evolution of the Etruscan concept of the afterlife
Jari-Matti Kuusela: Style as distinction – burials refl ecting distinction and the development of social stratifi cation of the Iron Age elites of Southern Ostrobothnia, Finland
Samuel Vaneeckhout: A social panarchy: social changes on the Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
Mirette Modarress: The past and present archaeological research in Iran – Development and some ethical questions
Milton Núñez: Some thoughts on the workshop and Social Archaeology in Finland Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
This is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to th... more This is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to the Republican period. Textile production is studied here through its technological, social and economic aspects. Textiles and their making were important parts of all fields of life in ancient Italy. Textiles and textile implements are found from settlement sites, burials, votive deposits and sanctuaries. The differences between the finds from different contexts through time point out the changes in material culture related to textile-making. The changes in the materials also indicate the change from household production of textiles to a workshop mode of production and specialisation, and later the development of slave involvement. Through the scope of this study one learns that textile production went through the introduction of many new technologies. This book presents new insights on the importance of textile-making in the ancient society and economy. The question of the importance of textile-making is approached through different angles concerning age, gender, ethnicity, social status, profession and religion, and in so doing a new insight on the multifaceted identity of textile makers and their social status is built.
The medieval and early modern practice of burying the dead beneath churches has been responsible ... more The medieval and early modern practice of burying the dead beneath churches has been responsible for preservation of funerary attires and soft tissues in association of several burials still found in old Finnish churches (Paavola 1998; Núñez et al. 2008). Traditionally the mechanism behind the phenomenon is believed to be related to the cessation of decomposition due to a mixture of the coldness in the subarctic regions and low humidity connected to it, while efficient ventilation is considered an additional factor. Particularly remains of those who died during winter were probably exposed to suitable conditions in terms of soft tissue Tiina Väre https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6558-5359
ENTANGLED BELIEFS AND RITUALS: RELIGION IN FINLAND AND SÁPMI FROM STONE AGE TO CONTEMPORARY TIMES, 2020
This chapter deals with the phenomenon of an intra-active clothed dead body in Northern Ostro-bot... more This chapter deals with the phenomenon of an intra-active clothed dead body in Northern Ostro-bothnian Finland from the 17th century to the middle of the 19th century. Ontologically, body and clothing may be considered inseparable, a phenomenon that is produced in ritual performance. The dead body and its funerary attire are approached through the concept of the abject, which is also contrasted with the rich Finnish and Swedish folkloric and ethnographic evidence concerning the 'living dead' and ghosts. The clothed dead body was subject to a number of emotions and feelings as well as beliefs that affected how it was prepared for burial. Preparation rituals are viewed as creators of meaning and significance in an ongoing and unfixed material performance of designing and dressing the individuality of the clothed dead body.
This chapter studies children’s daily life in Pre-Roman Rome and Latium. Even though there is lit... more This chapter studies children’s daily life in Pre-Roman Rome and Latium. Even though there is little clear evidence for children’s life in settlement contexts, the infant tombs dated between the final Bronze Age and Archaic period offer data to study the status of children in this area. Many infants have been found buried in settlement contexts, whereas at necropoleis child graves are rare in comparison to expected high child mortality rates. Current archaeological data enables us to consider some aspects of children’s birth, death, nurture, dress as an indicator of age and gender, play and education, as well as the everyday tasks they performed.
Entangled Rituals and Beliefs: Religion in Finland and Sápmi from Stone Age to contemporary times. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland 8, 2020
Four coffins dating from the period between
the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries from Keminmaa
in ... more Four coffins dating from the period between the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries from Keminmaa in northern Ostrobothnian Finland were examined using computed-tomography (CT) scanning, a methodology with research applications for exploring human remains, coffins, and funerary textiles. The age and, in two cases, sex of the remains were estimated, and both historical sources and archaeological material suggest that socialization through gender was apparent in this collection. This article explores both the material testimony of care, dedication, and innocence of newborn and infant burials, as well as the socialization process and role of women adolescents in providing children’s funerary materials.
Two ongoing projects at the University of
Oulu, Finland, are studying burials situated below the
... more Two ongoing projects at the University of Oulu, Finland, are studying burials situated below the floorboards of Finnish churches. The projects examine mortality and materiality in Finland using an exceptionally well-preserved assemblage of mummified human remains. Multidisciplinary research methods, including CT scanning, μCT scanning, sampling for DNA and isotope analysis, and insect and plant samples, are providing multifaceted information concerning past societies. The samples provide rich insight into the material dimensions of mortality in northern Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries. Since the studied material is located under the floors of church buildings that are still in use by congregations, obtaining permits for research and sampling has required managing relationships with separate parishes. This article outlines the projects and examines the ethical and legal dimensions of research on human remains conducted in partnership with individual parishes.
Tiina Väre, Sanna Lipkin, Jaakko Niinimäki, Sirpa Niinimäki, Titta Kallio-Seppä, Juho-Antti Junno... more Tiina Väre, Sanna Lipkin, Jaakko Niinimäki, Sirpa Niinimäki, Titta Kallio-Seppä, Juho-Antti Junno, Milton Núñez, Markku Niskanen, Matti Heino, Annemari Tranberg, Saara Tuovinen, Rosa Vilkama, Timo Ylimaunu
We utilize computed tomography (CT) to study early modern burials once deposited beneath Finnish churches, some of which contain mummified remains. The method allows performing repeated 3-dimentional layer-by-layer dissections not only to the human remains but to the whole burials. We are able to conclude about the burial materials – such as the coffin itself but also the textiles, ornaments, plant particles and other accessories sealed inside it – without harming this unique heritage. The examination functions as a virtual, repeatable, non-invasive excavation. This is the first CT study of Finnish mummies and examination of the artefacts associated with the burials via CT is a relative novelty. The project was initiated with a CT study of the mummified remains of a 17th-century vicar, and coffins of seven sub-adults have been imaged since it. So far we have revealed pathological conditions the vicar suffered from and conclude about the preservation and funerary attires.
The 17th–19th century burial materials from northern Ostrobothnia are studied in order to conside... more The 17th–19th century burial materials from northern Ostrobothnia are studied in order to consider the value, origin and meaning of textiles especially in child burials. The focus is on the preservation, quality and dyes of burial textiles unearthed at the yard of Oulu Cathedral as well as the clothes of the mummifi ed bodies currently under the fl oors of northern Finnish churches. The materials consist of textiles of local, Swedish and central European origin. The research methods include visual and microscopic analysis, UHPLC-PDA and SEM-EDX analysis. Textiles of the naturally mummifi ed remains of the children are studied through CT scanning images.
Strumporna på, med varma fötter i graven
Strumpor är inte bara praktiska, de har också en soci... more Strumporna på, med varma fötter i graven
Strumpor är inte bara praktiska, de har också en social betydelse. Dessa betydelser kan skönjas i material- och
teknikval, genom ekonomiska aspekter (pris, handel) och vanor. Då en människa väljer strumpor för sina fötter,
fi nns det många bakgrundsfaktorer som gjort att just dessa strumpor bärs av denna människa.
På 1600–1700-talen var strumporna knähöga. Damstrumporna var dekorerade med ett s.k. vikkeli-reliefmönster
som syntes under kjolen, och eftersom män allmänt använde knäbyxor, var strumporna ett synligt element i
dräkten. I det gravmaterial som bevarats i Uleåborgs domkyrka fi nns det både siden- och yllestrumpor. Även om
bomullsstrumpor är vanliga i det skriftliga källmaterialet har sådana inte bevarats i den sura kyrkojorden. Trots
detta kan man utgående från de bevarade strumporna dra slutsatser om tillverkningsteknik och de avlidnas status
i samhället.
Textile craft has been one of the most important tasks of women in central Tyrrhenian Italy. This... more Textile craft has been one of the most important tasks of women in central Tyrrhenian Italy. This is clearly seen in the funeral data. Many female burials from the Final Bronze Age to the Archaic period contain textile tools, most commonly a spindle whorl that has been attached to a perishable wooden shaft. Even though it is evident that textile work firmly belonged to the female sphere of life, there are some features that enable us to distinguish between women’s identities based on rank and age. In this chapter, I will focus on identifying status and age of textile makers in Latium vetus and southern Etruria.
Link to the article will be added in December 2016
Updated version of this PhD thesis has been published at BAR International Series 2369 (2012).
... more Updated version of this PhD thesis has been published at BAR International Series 2369 (2012).
This doctoral thesis is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to the Republican period. Textile production is studied here through its technological, social and economic aspects. This dissertation presents new insights on the importance of textile-making in the ancient society and economy. Textiles and their making were important parts of all fields of life in ancient Italy.
Textiles and textile implements are found from settlement sites, burials, votive deposits and sanctuaries. The differences between the finds from diff erent contexts through time point out the changes in material culture related to textile-making. The changes in the materials also indicate the change from household production of textiles to a workshop
mode of production and specialisation and later on slave work. Through the scope of this study textile production went through the introduction of many new technologies;
for example the warp-weighted loom was finally replaced by the two-beam loom. Also, the changes in the making of the implements point to the changes in the society and the
economic structures.
Textile-making is a process that starts from the selection of fibres and leads through many steps to the final product. The techniques used in central Tyrrhenian Italy are reconstructed through the source materials: textile tools, surviving textiles, written and iconographic sources and the data is combined with the results of experimental archaeology. Although a necessity textile production is also a very time consuming activity and as such had a great economic importance in the ancient society. The changes in the production through time insisted for a greater specialisation of textile makers as
indicated by the archeological materials from the early Iron Age onwards and the skill of textile-making became something that was highly valued within the society. Textile-making was a virtue of women. A single spindle whorl became something of a marker for female gender and also the most common grave good given to women. Textiles were mainly done by women, but the importance of children in the field
of textile production in antiquity is also to be noted. The archeological materials show that children, also some boys were taught the basics of the craft maybe as early as at the
age of three or four. However, the learning of textile-making was started in earnest as a juvenile. Everybody did not become as skilled and the skill level needed for special
techniques and professionalism was achieved only by some. Th ey can generally be recognised from the burial materials through the multiple tool sets. The question of the importance of textile-making is approached in this thesis
through diff erent angles concerning age, gender, ethnicity, social status, profession and religion. T rough this a new insight on the multifaceted identity of textile makers and
their social status is built.
Sanna Lipkin and Tiina Kuokkanen: Man buried in his everyday clothes – attire and social status in early modern Oulu
Carol Christiansen, Lena Hammarlund and Martin Ciszuk: Under- standing woollen cloth production through reconstructions: a case study from Shetland
Krista Vajanto: Textile standards in experimental archaeology
Francesco Meo: From archaeological finds to high quality textile
fabrics: new data from Herakleia, southern Basilicata, Italy
Alessandro Quercia and Lin Foxhall: Weaving relationships in ar- eas of cultural contacts: production, use and consumption of loom weights in pre-Roman Sicily
Riina Rammo: Tradition and transition: the technology and usage of plant-fibre textiles in Estonian rural areas in the 11th–17th cen- turies
Krista Vajanto: Finnish shipwreck textiles from the 13th–18th cen- turies AD
Contents
Anna-Kaisa Salmi, Tiina Äikäs, Sanna Lipkin: Introduction
Visa Immonen: The mess befor... more Contents
Anna-Kaisa Salmi, Tiina Äikäs, Sanna Lipkin: Introduction
Visa Immonen: The mess before the modern – Karen Barad’s agential realism and periodization in Medieval archaeology in Finland
Anna-Kaisa Salmi: Man’s best friends? The treatment of the remains of dogs, cats and horses in early modern northern Finland
Minna Lehtola: hoWhy theory and the cultural transition in the Sakha Republic
Pirjo Hamari: Signifying Roman in the east – Identity and material culture in Roman archaeology
Paula Kouki: Changing times, continuing traditions: the transfer of religious traditions at Jabal Harun
Sanna Lipkin: Textile-making and religion in central Tyrrhenian Italy
Juha Tuppi: A walk through the valley of death: The evolution of the Etruscan concept of the afterlife
Jari-Matti Kuusela: Style as distinction – burials refl ecting distinction and the development of social stratifi cation of the Iron Age elites of Southern Ostrobothnia, Finland
Samuel Vaneeckhout: A social panarchy: social changes on the Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
Mirette Modarress: The past and present archaeological research in Iran – Development and some ethical questions
Milton Núñez: Some thoughts on the workshop and Social Archaeology in Finland Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
This is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to th... more This is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to the Republican period. Textile production is studied here through its technological, social and economic aspects. Textiles and their making were important parts of all fields of life in ancient Italy. Textiles and textile implements are found from settlement sites, burials, votive deposits and sanctuaries. The differences between the finds from different contexts through time point out the changes in material culture related to textile-making. The changes in the materials also indicate the change from household production of textiles to a workshop mode of production and specialisation, and later the development of slave involvement. Through the scope of this study one learns that textile production went through the introduction of many new technologies. This book presents new insights on the importance of textile-making in the ancient society and economy. The question of the importance of textile-making is approached through different angles concerning age, gender, ethnicity, social status, profession and religion, and in so doing a new insight on the multifaceted identity of textile makers and their social status is built.
The medieval and early modern practice of burying the dead beneath churches has been responsible ... more The medieval and early modern practice of burying the dead beneath churches has been responsible for preservation of funerary attires and soft tissues in association of several burials still found in old Finnish churches (Paavola 1998; Núñez et al. 2008). Traditionally the mechanism behind the phenomenon is believed to be related to the cessation of decomposition due to a mixture of the coldness in the subarctic regions and low humidity connected to it, while efficient ventilation is considered an additional factor. Particularly remains of those who died during winter were probably exposed to suitable conditions in terms of soft tissue Tiina Väre https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6558-5359
ENTANGLED BELIEFS AND RITUALS: RELIGION IN FINLAND AND SÁPMI FROM STONE AGE TO CONTEMPORARY TIMES, 2020
This chapter deals with the phenomenon of an intra-active clothed dead body in Northern Ostro-bot... more This chapter deals with the phenomenon of an intra-active clothed dead body in Northern Ostro-bothnian Finland from the 17th century to the middle of the 19th century. Ontologically, body and clothing may be considered inseparable, a phenomenon that is produced in ritual performance. The dead body and its funerary attire are approached through the concept of the abject, which is also contrasted with the rich Finnish and Swedish folkloric and ethnographic evidence concerning the 'living dead' and ghosts. The clothed dead body was subject to a number of emotions and feelings as well as beliefs that affected how it was prepared for burial. Preparation rituals are viewed as creators of meaning and significance in an ongoing and unfixed material performance of designing and dressing the individuality of the clothed dead body.
This chapter studies children’s daily life in Pre-Roman Rome and Latium. Even though there is lit... more This chapter studies children’s daily life in Pre-Roman Rome and Latium. Even though there is little clear evidence for children’s life in settlement contexts, the infant tombs dated between the final Bronze Age and Archaic period offer data to study the status of children in this area. Many infants have been found buried in settlement contexts, whereas at necropoleis child graves are rare in comparison to expected high child mortality rates. Current archaeological data enables us to consider some aspects of children’s birth, death, nurture, dress as an indicator of age and gender, play and education, as well as the everyday tasks they performed.
Entangled Rituals and Beliefs: Religion in Finland and Sápmi from Stone Age to contemporary times. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland 8, 2020
Four coffins dating from the period between
the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries from Keminmaa
in ... more Four coffins dating from the period between the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries from Keminmaa in northern Ostrobothnian Finland were examined using computed-tomography (CT) scanning, a methodology with research applications for exploring human remains, coffins, and funerary textiles. The age and, in two cases, sex of the remains were estimated, and both historical sources and archaeological material suggest that socialization through gender was apparent in this collection. This article explores both the material testimony of care, dedication, and innocence of newborn and infant burials, as well as the socialization process and role of women adolescents in providing children’s funerary materials.
Two ongoing projects at the University of
Oulu, Finland, are studying burials situated below the
... more Two ongoing projects at the University of Oulu, Finland, are studying burials situated below the floorboards of Finnish churches. The projects examine mortality and materiality in Finland using an exceptionally well-preserved assemblage of mummified human remains. Multidisciplinary research methods, including CT scanning, μCT scanning, sampling for DNA and isotope analysis, and insect and plant samples, are providing multifaceted information concerning past societies. The samples provide rich insight into the material dimensions of mortality in northern Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries. Since the studied material is located under the floors of church buildings that are still in use by congregations, obtaining permits for research and sampling has required managing relationships with separate parishes. This article outlines the projects and examines the ethical and legal dimensions of research on human remains conducted in partnership with individual parishes.
Tiina Väre, Sanna Lipkin, Jaakko Niinimäki, Sirpa Niinimäki, Titta Kallio-Seppä, Juho-Antti Junno... more Tiina Väre, Sanna Lipkin, Jaakko Niinimäki, Sirpa Niinimäki, Titta Kallio-Seppä, Juho-Antti Junno, Milton Núñez, Markku Niskanen, Matti Heino, Annemari Tranberg, Saara Tuovinen, Rosa Vilkama, Timo Ylimaunu
We utilize computed tomography (CT) to study early modern burials once deposited beneath Finnish churches, some of which contain mummified remains. The method allows performing repeated 3-dimentional layer-by-layer dissections not only to the human remains but to the whole burials. We are able to conclude about the burial materials – such as the coffin itself but also the textiles, ornaments, plant particles and other accessories sealed inside it – without harming this unique heritage. The examination functions as a virtual, repeatable, non-invasive excavation. This is the first CT study of Finnish mummies and examination of the artefacts associated with the burials via CT is a relative novelty. The project was initiated with a CT study of the mummified remains of a 17th-century vicar, and coffins of seven sub-adults have been imaged since it. So far we have revealed pathological conditions the vicar suffered from and conclude about the preservation and funerary attires.
The 17th–19th century burial materials from northern Ostrobothnia are studied in order to conside... more The 17th–19th century burial materials from northern Ostrobothnia are studied in order to consider the value, origin and meaning of textiles especially in child burials. The focus is on the preservation, quality and dyes of burial textiles unearthed at the yard of Oulu Cathedral as well as the clothes of the mummifi ed bodies currently under the fl oors of northern Finnish churches. The materials consist of textiles of local, Swedish and central European origin. The research methods include visual and microscopic analysis, UHPLC-PDA and SEM-EDX analysis. Textiles of the naturally mummifi ed remains of the children are studied through CT scanning images.
Strumporna på, med varma fötter i graven
Strumpor är inte bara praktiska, de har också en soci... more Strumporna på, med varma fötter i graven
Strumpor är inte bara praktiska, de har också en social betydelse. Dessa betydelser kan skönjas i material- och
teknikval, genom ekonomiska aspekter (pris, handel) och vanor. Då en människa väljer strumpor för sina fötter,
fi nns det många bakgrundsfaktorer som gjort att just dessa strumpor bärs av denna människa.
På 1600–1700-talen var strumporna knähöga. Damstrumporna var dekorerade med ett s.k. vikkeli-reliefmönster
som syntes under kjolen, och eftersom män allmänt använde knäbyxor, var strumporna ett synligt element i
dräkten. I det gravmaterial som bevarats i Uleåborgs domkyrka fi nns det både siden- och yllestrumpor. Även om
bomullsstrumpor är vanliga i det skriftliga källmaterialet har sådana inte bevarats i den sura kyrkojorden. Trots
detta kan man utgående från de bevarade strumporna dra slutsatser om tillverkningsteknik och de avlidnas status
i samhället.
Textile craft has been one of the most important tasks of women in central Tyrrhenian Italy. This... more Textile craft has been one of the most important tasks of women in central Tyrrhenian Italy. This is clearly seen in the funeral data. Many female burials from the Final Bronze Age to the Archaic period contain textile tools, most commonly a spindle whorl that has been attached to a perishable wooden shaft. Even though it is evident that textile work firmly belonged to the female sphere of life, there are some features that enable us to distinguish between women’s identities based on rank and age. In this chapter, I will focus on identifying status and age of textile makers in Latium vetus and southern Etruria.
Link to the article will be added in December 2016
Burying deceased parishioners beneath the wooden church floor was a common practice for approxima... more Burying deceased parishioners beneath the wooden church floor was a common practice for approximately 50 years at the church of Köyliö, built in 1752. Due to church renovations during the summer of 2015, a number of burials were surveyed and excavated by Muuritutkimus ky as part of a salvage effort due to the risk posed to the remains, with an unknown number of burials remaining in situ. The dry and well-ventilated microclimate beneath the floor resulted in exceptional preservation levels for both human remains and their accompanying textiles. This is a rare occurrence in Finnish church studies, as textile materials require unique and often extreme environments for preservation.
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This doctoral thesis is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to the Republican period. Textile production is studied here through its technological, social and economic aspects. This dissertation presents new insights on the importance of textile-making in the ancient society and economy. Textiles and their making were important parts of all fields of life in ancient Italy.
Textiles and textile implements are found from settlement sites, burials, votive deposits and sanctuaries. The differences between the finds from diff erent contexts through time point out the changes in material culture related to textile-making. The changes in the materials also indicate the change from household production of textiles to a workshop
mode of production and specialisation and later on slave work. Through the scope of this study textile production went through the introduction of many new technologies;
for example the warp-weighted loom was finally replaced by the two-beam loom. Also, the changes in the making of the implements point to the changes in the society and the
economic structures.
Textile-making is a process that starts from the selection of fibres and leads through many steps to the final product. The techniques used in central Tyrrhenian Italy are reconstructed through the source materials: textile tools, surviving textiles, written and iconographic sources and the data is combined with the results of experimental archaeology. Although a necessity textile production is also a very time consuming activity and as such had a great economic importance in the ancient society. The changes in the production through time insisted for a greater specialisation of textile makers as
indicated by the archeological materials from the early Iron Age onwards and the skill of textile-making became something that was highly valued within the society. Textile-making was a virtue of women. A single spindle whorl became something of a marker for female gender and also the most common grave good given to women. Textiles were mainly done by women, but the importance of children in the field
of textile production in antiquity is also to be noted. The archeological materials show that children, also some boys were taught the basics of the craft maybe as early as at the
age of three or four. However, the learning of textile-making was started in earnest as a juvenile. Everybody did not become as skilled and the skill level needed for special
techniques and professionalism was achieved only by some. Th ey can generally be recognised from the burial materials through the multiple tool sets. The question of the importance of textile-making is approached in this thesis
through diff erent angles concerning age, gender, ethnicity, social status, profession and religion. T rough this a new insight on the multifaceted identity of textile makers and
their social status is built.
Mira Karttila: The Cap of St Birgitta of Sweden: research and con- servation of medieval reliquary
Piia Lempiäinen: “Ena silkes tröya” – clothing bequests in Finnish medieval wills
Sanna Lipkin and Tiina Kuokkanen: Man buried in his everyday clothes – attire and social status in early modern Oulu
Carol Christiansen, Lena Hammarlund and Martin Ciszuk: Under- standing woollen cloth production through reconstructions: a case study from Shetland
Krista Vajanto: Textile standards in experimental archaeology
Francesco Meo: From archaeological finds to high quality textile
fabrics: new data from Herakleia, southern Basilicata, Italy
Alessandro Quercia and Lin Foxhall: Weaving relationships in ar- eas of cultural contacts: production, use and consumption of loom weights in pre-Roman Sicily
Riina Rammo: Tradition and transition: the technology and usage of plant-fibre textiles in Estonian rural areas in the 11th–17th cen- turies
Krista Vajanto: Finnish shipwreck textiles from the 13th–18th cen- turies AD
Anna-Kaisa Salmi, Tiina Äikäs, Sanna Lipkin: Introduction
Visa Immonen: The mess before the modern – Karen Barad’s agential realism and periodization in Medieval archaeology in Finland
Anna-Kaisa Salmi: Man’s best friends? The treatment of the remains of dogs, cats and horses in early modern northern Finland
Minna Lehtola: hoWhy theory and the cultural transition in the Sakha Republic
Pirjo Hamari: Signifying Roman in the east – Identity and material culture in Roman archaeology
Paula Kouki: Changing times, continuing traditions: the transfer of religious traditions at Jabal Harun
Sanna Lipkin: Textile-making and religion in central Tyrrhenian Italy
Juha Tuppi: A walk through the valley of death: The evolution of the Etruscan concept of the afterlife
Jari-Matti Kuusela: Style as distinction – burials refl ecting distinction and the development of social stratifi cation of the Iron Age elites of Southern Ostrobothnia, Finland
Samuel Vaneeckhout: A social panarchy: social changes on the Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
Mirette Modarress: The past and present archaeological research in
Iran – Development and some ethical questions
Milton Núñez: Some thoughts on the workshop and Social Archaeology
in Finland
Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
Papers
the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries from Keminmaa
in northern Ostrobothnian Finland were examined
using computed-tomography (CT) scanning, a methodology
with research applications for exploring human
remains, coffins, and funerary textiles. The age and, in
two cases, sex of the remains were estimated, and both
historical sources and archaeological material suggest
that socialization through gender was apparent in this
collection. This article explores both the material testimony
of care, dedication, and innocence of newborn
and infant burials, as well as the socialization process
and role of women adolescents in providing children’s
funerary materials.
Oulu, Finland, are studying burials situated below the
floorboards of Finnish churches. The projects examine
mortality and materiality in Finland using an exceptionally
well-preserved assemblage of mummified human
remains. Multidisciplinary research methods, including
CT scanning, μCT scanning, sampling for DNA and
isotope analysis, and insect and plant samples, are providing
multifaceted information concerning past societies.
The samples provide rich insight into the material
dimensions of mortality in northern Europe in the 18th
and 19th centuries. Since the studied material is located
under the floors of church buildings that are still in use
by congregations, obtaining permits for research and
sampling has required managing relationships with separate
parishes. This article outlines the projects and
examines the ethical and legal dimensions of research
on human remains conducted in partnership with individual
parishes.
We utilize computed tomography (CT) to study early modern burials once deposited beneath Finnish churches, some of which contain mummified remains. The method allows performing repeated 3-dimentional layer-by-layer dissections not only to the human remains but to the whole burials. We are able to conclude about the burial materials – such as the coffin itself but also the textiles, ornaments, plant particles and other accessories sealed inside it – without harming this unique heritage. The examination functions as a virtual, repeatable, non-invasive excavation. This is the first CT study of Finnish mummies and examination of the artefacts associated with the burials via CT is a relative novelty. The project was initiated with a CT study of the mummified remains of a 17th-century vicar, and coffins of seven sub-adults have been imaged since it. So far we have revealed pathological conditions the vicar suffered from and conclude about the preservation and funerary attires.
value, origin and meaning of textiles especially in child burials. The focus is on the preservation, quality and dyes
of burial textiles unearthed at the yard of Oulu Cathedral as well as the clothes of the mummifi ed bodies currently
under the fl oors of northern Finnish churches. The materials consist of textiles of local, Swedish and central
European origin. The research methods include visual and microscopic analysis, UHPLC-PDA and SEM-EDX
analysis. Textiles of the naturally mummifi ed remains of the children are studied through CT scanning images.
Strumpor är inte bara praktiska, de har också en social betydelse. Dessa betydelser kan skönjas i material- och
teknikval, genom ekonomiska aspekter (pris, handel) och vanor. Då en människa väljer strumpor för sina fötter,
fi nns det många bakgrundsfaktorer som gjort att just dessa strumpor bärs av denna människa.
På 1600–1700-talen var strumporna knähöga. Damstrumporna var dekorerade med ett s.k. vikkeli-reliefmönster
som syntes under kjolen, och eftersom män allmänt använde knäbyxor, var strumporna ett synligt element i
dräkten. I det gravmaterial som bevarats i Uleåborgs domkyrka fi nns det både siden- och yllestrumpor. Även om
bomullsstrumpor är vanliga i det skriftliga källmaterialet har sådana inte bevarats i den sura kyrkojorden. Trots
detta kan man utgående från de bevarade strumporna dra slutsatser om tillverkningsteknik och de avlidnas status
i samhället.
Link to the article will be added in December 2016
This doctoral thesis is a study on textile production in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to the Republican period. Textile production is studied here through its technological, social and economic aspects. This dissertation presents new insights on the importance of textile-making in the ancient society and economy. Textiles and their making were important parts of all fields of life in ancient Italy.
Textiles and textile implements are found from settlement sites, burials, votive deposits and sanctuaries. The differences between the finds from diff erent contexts through time point out the changes in material culture related to textile-making. The changes in the materials also indicate the change from household production of textiles to a workshop
mode of production and specialisation and later on slave work. Through the scope of this study textile production went through the introduction of many new technologies;
for example the warp-weighted loom was finally replaced by the two-beam loom. Also, the changes in the making of the implements point to the changes in the society and the
economic structures.
Textile-making is a process that starts from the selection of fibres and leads through many steps to the final product. The techniques used in central Tyrrhenian Italy are reconstructed through the source materials: textile tools, surviving textiles, written and iconographic sources and the data is combined with the results of experimental archaeology. Although a necessity textile production is also a very time consuming activity and as such had a great economic importance in the ancient society. The changes in the production through time insisted for a greater specialisation of textile makers as
indicated by the archeological materials from the early Iron Age onwards and the skill of textile-making became something that was highly valued within the society. Textile-making was a virtue of women. A single spindle whorl became something of a marker for female gender and also the most common grave good given to women. Textiles were mainly done by women, but the importance of children in the field
of textile production in antiquity is also to be noted. The archeological materials show that children, also some boys were taught the basics of the craft maybe as early as at the
age of three or four. However, the learning of textile-making was started in earnest as a juvenile. Everybody did not become as skilled and the skill level needed for special
techniques and professionalism was achieved only by some. Th ey can generally be recognised from the burial materials through the multiple tool sets. The question of the importance of textile-making is approached in this thesis
through diff erent angles concerning age, gender, ethnicity, social status, profession and religion. T rough this a new insight on the multifaceted identity of textile makers and
their social status is built.
Mira Karttila: The Cap of St Birgitta of Sweden: research and con- servation of medieval reliquary
Piia Lempiäinen: “Ena silkes tröya” – clothing bequests in Finnish medieval wills
Sanna Lipkin and Tiina Kuokkanen: Man buried in his everyday clothes – attire and social status in early modern Oulu
Carol Christiansen, Lena Hammarlund and Martin Ciszuk: Under- standing woollen cloth production through reconstructions: a case study from Shetland
Krista Vajanto: Textile standards in experimental archaeology
Francesco Meo: From archaeological finds to high quality textile
fabrics: new data from Herakleia, southern Basilicata, Italy
Alessandro Quercia and Lin Foxhall: Weaving relationships in ar- eas of cultural contacts: production, use and consumption of loom weights in pre-Roman Sicily
Riina Rammo: Tradition and transition: the technology and usage of plant-fibre textiles in Estonian rural areas in the 11th–17th cen- turies
Krista Vajanto: Finnish shipwreck textiles from the 13th–18th cen- turies AD
Anna-Kaisa Salmi, Tiina Äikäs, Sanna Lipkin: Introduction
Visa Immonen: The mess before the modern – Karen Barad’s agential realism and periodization in Medieval archaeology in Finland
Anna-Kaisa Salmi: Man’s best friends? The treatment of the remains of dogs, cats and horses in early modern northern Finland
Minna Lehtola: hoWhy theory and the cultural transition in the Sakha Republic
Pirjo Hamari: Signifying Roman in the east – Identity and material culture in Roman archaeology
Paula Kouki: Changing times, continuing traditions: the transfer of religious traditions at Jabal Harun
Sanna Lipkin: Textile-making and religion in central Tyrrhenian Italy
Juha Tuppi: A walk through the valley of death: The evolution of the Etruscan concept of the afterlife
Jari-Matti Kuusela: Style as distinction – burials refl ecting distinction and the development of social stratifi cation of the Iron Age elites of Southern Ostrobothnia, Finland
Samuel Vaneeckhout: A social panarchy: social changes on the Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
Mirette Modarress: The past and present archaeological research in
Iran – Development and some ethical questions
Milton Núñez: Some thoughts on the workshop and Social Archaeology
in Finland
Bothnian Bay between 6500 and 4000 cal BP
the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries from Keminmaa
in northern Ostrobothnian Finland were examined
using computed-tomography (CT) scanning, a methodology
with research applications for exploring human
remains, coffins, and funerary textiles. The age and, in
two cases, sex of the remains were estimated, and both
historical sources and archaeological material suggest
that socialization through gender was apparent in this
collection. This article explores both the material testimony
of care, dedication, and innocence of newborn
and infant burials, as well as the socialization process
and role of women adolescents in providing children’s
funerary materials.
Oulu, Finland, are studying burials situated below the
floorboards of Finnish churches. The projects examine
mortality and materiality in Finland using an exceptionally
well-preserved assemblage of mummified human
remains. Multidisciplinary research methods, including
CT scanning, μCT scanning, sampling for DNA and
isotope analysis, and insect and plant samples, are providing
multifaceted information concerning past societies.
The samples provide rich insight into the material
dimensions of mortality in northern Europe in the 18th
and 19th centuries. Since the studied material is located
under the floors of church buildings that are still in use
by congregations, obtaining permits for research and
sampling has required managing relationships with separate
parishes. This article outlines the projects and
examines the ethical and legal dimensions of research
on human remains conducted in partnership with individual
parishes.
We utilize computed tomography (CT) to study early modern burials once deposited beneath Finnish churches, some of which contain mummified remains. The method allows performing repeated 3-dimentional layer-by-layer dissections not only to the human remains but to the whole burials. We are able to conclude about the burial materials – such as the coffin itself but also the textiles, ornaments, plant particles and other accessories sealed inside it – without harming this unique heritage. The examination functions as a virtual, repeatable, non-invasive excavation. This is the first CT study of Finnish mummies and examination of the artefacts associated with the burials via CT is a relative novelty. The project was initiated with a CT study of the mummified remains of a 17th-century vicar, and coffins of seven sub-adults have been imaged since it. So far we have revealed pathological conditions the vicar suffered from and conclude about the preservation and funerary attires.
value, origin and meaning of textiles especially in child burials. The focus is on the preservation, quality and dyes
of burial textiles unearthed at the yard of Oulu Cathedral as well as the clothes of the mummifi ed bodies currently
under the fl oors of northern Finnish churches. The materials consist of textiles of local, Swedish and central
European origin. The research methods include visual and microscopic analysis, UHPLC-PDA and SEM-EDX
analysis. Textiles of the naturally mummifi ed remains of the children are studied through CT scanning images.
Strumpor är inte bara praktiska, de har också en social betydelse. Dessa betydelser kan skönjas i material- och
teknikval, genom ekonomiska aspekter (pris, handel) och vanor. Då en människa väljer strumpor för sina fötter,
fi nns det många bakgrundsfaktorer som gjort att just dessa strumpor bärs av denna människa.
På 1600–1700-talen var strumporna knähöga. Damstrumporna var dekorerade med ett s.k. vikkeli-reliefmönster
som syntes under kjolen, och eftersom män allmänt använde knäbyxor, var strumporna ett synligt element i
dräkten. I det gravmaterial som bevarats i Uleåborgs domkyrka fi nns det både siden- och yllestrumpor. Även om
bomullsstrumpor är vanliga i det skriftliga källmaterialet har sådana inte bevarats i den sura kyrkojorden. Trots
detta kan man utgående från de bevarade strumporna dra slutsatser om tillverkningsteknik och de avlidnas status
i samhället.
Link to the article will be added in December 2016