Trivor (Urdu: ترِووُر or Trivor Sar) is one of the high mountain peaks of the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range in the Shimshal Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan. Its height is often given as 7,728 metres (25,354 ft), but this elevation is not consistent with photographic evidence.[1] The height given here is from a Russian 1:100,000 topographic map.[2]
The first ascent of Trivor was made by a British–American party, Wilfrid Noyce (UK) and Jack Sadler (USA) reached the summit on 17th August 1960. They climbed from the Trivor Glacier, which runs towards the peak from the south-west, and gained the high col at the foot of the northwest ridge which they then followed to reach summit.[3] One of the members of the expedition team, Don Whillans, had shipped his motorbike (a 650cc Triumph Trophy) to Pakistan from the UK and after his climbing partners departed, he drove solo by motorbike the 7,000 miles from Rawalpindi to the UK.[4]
There has been only one other successful ascent of the peak in the 64 years since Noyce and Sadler reached the summit.[5][6]
In 1991 Atsushi Endo and Toshifumi Onuki made the second ascent. They also took the northwest ridge to the summit but they started from the north side, from the Momhil Glacier, and climbed a northeast-facing spur to gain the east ridge of the neighbouring Momhil Sar, they then descended to the col at the foot of Trivor’s northwest ridge and so to the summit.[7]
Sources
edit- Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
- Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989.
Notes
edit- ^ http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/elevmisquotes.html#hispar Some Frequently Misquoted Elevations
- ^ "Hispar area expeditions". Archived from the original on 2008-04-27. Retrieved 2008-04-27. Hispar area: expedition reports and maps
- ^ Noyce, Wilfrid (1961). "The Ascent of Trivor" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #66 (302): 9–14. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
- ^ Noyce, C. W. F. (Wilfrid) (1962). To The Unknown Mountain: Ascent of an Unexplored Twenty-five Thousander in the Karakoram. Heinemann. Retrieved 9 September 2024.
- ^ "Himalayan Index". Alpine Club (UK). Search for Trivor at this page.
- ^ Griffin, Lindsay (2024). "Trivor, Attempt on North Face Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh". American Alpine Journal. #66 (98). ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
- ^ Onuki, Toshifumi (1992). "Asia, Pakistan, Trivor Ascent and Momhil Sar Attempt". American Alpine Journal. 34 (66): 252–253. ISBN 9780930410513. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 9 September 2024.
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