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Hexham (/ˈhɛksəm/ HEKS-əm) is a market town and civil parish in Northumberland, England, on the south bank of the River Tyne, formed by the confluence of the North Tyne and the South Tyne at Warden nearby, and close to Hadrian's Wall. Hexham was the administrative centre for the Tynedale district from 1974 to 2009. In 2011, it had a population of 13,097.[1]

Hexham
A tall building in a pale coloured stone with prominent vertical features and windows. On the tower a clock with a blue face. In the foreground a road with parked cars; and in the background a blue sky with wispy white clouds.
Coat of Arms of Hexham
Hexham is located in Northumberland
Hexham
Hexham
Location within Northumberland
Population11,346 (2021)
OS grid referenceNY9363
Civil parish
  • Hexham
Unitary authority
Ceremonial county
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townHEXHAM
Postcode districtNE46–NE48
Dialling code01434
PoliceNorthumbria
FireNorthumberland
AmbulanceNorth East
UK Parliament
List of places
UK
England
Northumberland
54°58′16″N 2°06′04″W / 54.971°N 2.101°W / 54.971; -2.101

Smaller towns and villages around Hexham include Corbridge, Riding Mill, Stocksfield and Wylam to the east, Acomb and Bellingham to the north, Allendale to the south and Haydon Bridge, Bardon Mill and Haltwhistle to the west. Newcastle upon Tyne is 25 miles (40 km) to the east and Carlisle 37 miles (60 km) to the west.

Toponym

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The name Hexham derives from the Old English Hagustaldes ea and later Hagustaldes ham from which the modern form (with the "-ham" element) derives. Hagustald is related to the Old High German hagustalt, denoting a younger son who takes land outside the settlement; the element ea means "stream" or "river" and ham is the Old English form of the Modern English "home" (and the Scots and Northern English "hame").[2][3]

History

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Hexham Abbey originated as a monastery founded by Wilfrid in 674. The crypt of the original monastery survives, and incorporates many stones taken from nearby Roman ruins, probably Corbridge or Hadrian's Wall.[4]

The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle (Manuscript D: Cotton Tiberius B IV) records the murder of King Ælfwald by Sicga at Scythlecester (which may be modern Chesters) on 23 September 788:

This year Alfwald, king of the Northumbrians, was slain by Siga, on the ninth[5] day before the calends of October; and a heavenly light was often seen on the spot where he was slain. He was buried at Hexham in the church.[6]
Her wæs Alfwald Norðhymbra cyning ofslægen fram Sigan on .viiii. Kalendas Octobris, 7 heofonlic leoht wæs lome gesewen þær þær he ofslægen wæs, 7 he wæs bebyrged on Hagustaldesee innan þære cyrican.

Like many towns in the Anglo-Scottish border area and adjacent regions, Hexham suffered from the border wars between the kingdoms of Scotland and England, including attacks from William Wallace who burnt the town in 1297. In 1312, Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland, demanded and received £2000 from the town and monastery in order for them to be spared a similar fate. In 1346 the monastery was sacked in a later invasion led by King David II of Scotland.[7]

In 1464, during the Wars of the Roses, the Battle of Hexham was fought somewhere to the south of the town; the actual site is disputed. The defeated Lancastrian commander, Henry Beaufort, 3rd Duke of Somerset, was executed in Hexham marketplace. There is a legend that Queen Margaret of Anjou took refuge after the battle in what is known as The Queen's Cave, where she was accosted by a robber; the legend formed the basis for an 18th-century play by George Colman the Younger (The Battle of Hexham); but it has been established that Queen Margaret had fled to France by the time the battle took place. The Queen's Cave in question is on the south side of the West Dipton Burn, to the southwest of Hexham.[8]

 
St Mary's Roman Catholic Church, Hexham

Until 1572, Hexham was the administrative centre of the former Liberty or Peculiar of Hexhamshire.[9][10]

In 1715, James Radclyffe, 3rd Earl of Derwentwater, raised the standard for James Francis Edward Stuart in Hexham Market place.[11]

"Hexham" was used in the Borders as a euphemism for "Hell". Hence the term "To Hexham wi' you an' ye’r whussel!", recorded in 1873, and the popular expression "Gang to Hexham!".[12] "Hexham-birnie" is derived from the term and means "an indefinitely remote place".[12]

Hexham riot

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In 1761, the Hexham Riot took place in the Market Place when a crowd protesting about changes in the criteria for serving in the militia were fired upon by troops from the North York Militia. Some 45 protesters were killed, earning the Militia the sobriquet of The Hexham Butchers.[13]

Notable buildings

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Hexham's architectural landscape is dominated by Hexham Abbey. The current church largely dates from c. 1170–1250, in the Early English Gothic style of architecture. The choir, north and south transepts and the cloisters, where canons studied and meditated, date from this period.[14]

The abbey stands at the west end of the market place, which is home to the Shambles, a covered market built by Sir Walter Blackett in 1766; it is a Grade II* listed building.[15]

 
The Old Gaol

At the east end of the market place stands the Moot Hall, originally commissioned as a gatehouse that was part of the defences of the town. The Moot Hall, which is considered one of the best examples of a medieval courthouse in the north of England,[16] is a Grade I listed building.[17]

The Old Gaol, behind the Moot Hall on Hallgates, was one of the first purpose-built jails in England. It was built between 1330 and 1333 and is a Grade I listed building.[18]

The Leazes on Shaws Lane is a Grade II listed mansion built in 1853 by John Dobson for William Kinsopp.[19]

 
The Queen's Hall

Hexham Library and the Queen's Hall Art Centre can both be found in the Queen's Hall, completed in 1866. The building contains the Brough Local Studies Collection which is the second-largest local history collection in the county.[20][21]

Dare Wilson Barracks, the home of X Company, 5th Battalion, The Royal Regiment of Fusiliers, was completed in 1891.[22]

Governance

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Hexham is in the parliamentary constituency of Hexham. Joe Morris has been the Labour member of parliament for Hexham since July 2024.[23] The town comes under Northumberland County Council and contains three wards: Hexham Central with Acomb, Hexham East and Hexham West.

Local media

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Beaumont Street in Hexham with the Courant offices
 
Priestpopple street
 
The Hexham House Grounds
 
Market Street in the old centre

The Hexham Courant is the local newspaper, serving Hexham and Tynedale since 1864. It was first launched by J. Catherall & Co., and at that time espoused the Liberal cause. It later absorbed the Conservative-supporting Hexham Herald. In 1977, CN Group acquired the newspaper.

Local news and television programmes are provided by BBC North East and Cumbria and ITV Tyne Tees.

Hexham's local radio stations are BBC Radio Newcastle on 103.7 FM, Capital North East on 105.8 FM, Heart North East on 96.4 FM, Smooth North East on 101.2 FM and Hits Radio North East on 103.2 FM.

Horse racing from the town's course on Yarridge Heights is regularly featured on telecasts by Racing UK and other selected broadcasters. Regular sound broadcasts of cricket commentary for Tynedale CC can be heard via the internet during summer on Spreaker Internet Radio.

Education

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Hexham is served by state first, middle and high schools and uses the three-tier system as does the rest of Northumberland. Queen Elizabeth High School, partly located in a former hydropathic hotel, is the town's major educational centre. The nearest private school is Mowden Hall School, a prep school located 10 miles (16 km) away in Stocksfield.

Transport

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The nearest airport to Hexham is Newcastle International Airport, which is located around 20 miles (32 km) away by road. Carlisle Lake District Airport and Teesside International Airport are located around 32 and 58 miles (51 and 93 km) away by road, respectively.

Rail

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The town is served by Hexham, a station on the Tyne Valley Line. It is situated on part of the original Newcastle and Carlisle Railway route, dating back to 1837, and links the city of Newcastle upon Tyne with Carlisle. The line follows the course of the River Tyne through Northumberland.

Services on the Tyne Valley Line are currently operated by Northern Trains. As of the December 2019 timetable change, the station is served by a twice-hourly service heading west towards Carlisle, and three trains per hour heading east towards Newcastle.

Road

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Hexham is served by the A69 road, which runs for 54 miles (87 km) from Carlisle to Newcastle upon Tyne. This road serves as an alternative to the original route, the A695, which runs from Hexham to Newcastle upon Tyne, serving Corbridge, Stocksfield, Prudhoe and Blaydon.

Bus station

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Hexham Bus Station
 
General information
LocationHexham, Northumberland
England
Coordinates54°58′13″N 2°05′45″W / 54.9704°N 2.0959°W / 54.9704; -2.0959
Owned byNorthumberland County Council
Operated byNorthumberland County Council
Bus stands5 (A–E)
ConnectionsHexham  
History
Opened29 November 2016; 7 years ago (2016-11-29)
Location
 
 
Hexham Bus Station
Location in Northumberland, England

The original bus station was located at Priestpopple, dating back to the 1930s. In November 2016, the bus station was relocated to its current site at Dene Avenue – at a cost of £2.28 million.[24][25]

Go North East provide most services in and around Hexham, with local services operating under the Tynedale Links brand. The AD122 tourist bus service operates year-round with increased services during the summer months, serving a number of locations along Hadrian's Wall, as well as the market town of Haltwhistle. Memorably, the route number, AD122, is the date of the building of the wall.

As of September 2024, the stand allocation is:

Stand Route Destination
A 10 Newcastle    
via Corbridge  , Riding Mill  , Stocksfield  , Prudhoe, Crawcrook, Ryton, Blaydon    , Metrocentre     & Teams
683 Hexham General Hospital
689 Consett  
via Dilston, Slaley, Whittonstall, Ebchester, Shotley Bridge & Blackhill
B 684 Newcastle    
via Corbridge  , Ovington, Ovingham, Wylam  , Heddon-on-the-Wall, Throckley, Walbottle & Denton Burn
685 Newcastle    
via Corbridge  , Horsley, Heddon-on-the-Wall, Throckley, Walbottle & Denton Burn
X85 Newcastle    
express via Corbridge   & A69
C 74 Newcastle    
via Oakwood, Great Whittington, Matfen, Stamfordham, Dalton, Medburn, Darras Hall, Ponteland, Callerton, Westerhope, Slatyford & Cowgate
688 Allendale
via Langley, Catton, Allenheads, Sinderhope & Sparty Lea
D 683 Beaumont Park
685 Carlisle    
via Haydon Bridge  , Bardon Mill  , Melkridge,[a] Haltwhistle  , Brampton & Warwick Bridge
X85 Leazes
E 680 Bellingham
via Acomb, Wall, Chollerford, Humshaugh & Wark
682 West Woodburn
via Acomb, Wall, Barrasford, Gunnerton, Barrasford Park & Ridsdale
683 Haugh Lane Industrial Estate
889 Alston
via Langley, Staward, Whitfield, Ninebanks, Carrshield & Nenthead
AD122 Walltown
via Acomb, Wall, Chollerford, Hadrian's Wall, Haltwhistle   & Greenhead

Awards

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Hexham won the town award in the 2005 Britain in Bloom awards.[26] In the same year, it was also named England's Favourite Market Town by the magazine Country Life.[27]

Hexham was voted the happiest place to live in Britain, 2019 and 2021.[28]

Economy

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The major employer in Hexham is Austrian firm Egger.[29][30] Its chipboard factory vents steam which can be seen from miles away.

Hexham had been long famous for its manufacture of leather. Wright (1823) gives some statistics

77 men & boys employed as Leather dressers and Glove-cutters, 40 boys employed as Dusters and 1,111 women employed as Sewers. Skins dressed annually were 80,000, and 18,000 skins of dressed leather were imported. From these were made and exported annually 23,504 dozens of pairs of gloves. Dutch Oker was used in the processing, but local fell clay could be used if necessary.

Tanning was a necessary allied industry and there were four tanneries, employing a score of men. In a year they dealt with 5,000 hides and 12,000 calf skins. They supplied local saddlers, bootmakers and cobblers.

Hexham also had 16 master hatters, and the trade employed 40 persons. There were two woollen manufactories, worked by steam power, and two rope manufactories. There were corn water mills below the bridge. A windmill on the Sele was ruinous, but there was one still working on Tyne Green. It was, and still is a flourishing market, including a mart for cattle and other farm animals.[31]

In Hexham the Subskimmer was designed and made by Submarine Products.

Botanical brewery Fentimans is based in Hexham.

Shopping

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Hexham has many shops commonly found in other English market-towns, with five central supermarkets, multiple clothes shops, charity shops, banks, estate agents, antique shops and chemists.[32] Cafes and coffee shops are also common in Hexham, from commercial chains to family run independents.

Sport

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Hexham's racecourse is at Yarridge Heights in the hills above the town, with National Hunt (steeplechase) races throughout the year.[33]

The town is also home to Tynedale Cricket Club, who play their home matches on Prior's Flat. Founded in 1888, the club has had its most successful period over the most recent 40 years when they dominated the Northumberland County League, before starting the 21st century by winning several championships in the newly created Northumberland & Tyneside Senior Cricket League. In late 2017, Tynedale CC became a founder member of the new Northumberland & Tyneside Cricket League (NTCL), formed when a merger between NTSCL & Northumberland Cricket League was voted through by constituent clubs at the inaugural AGM held at Kingston Park Rugby Ground. This league comprises six divisions with divisions 5 and 6 regionalised into north and south sections.

Twin towns

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Hexham is twinned with:

People from Hexham

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See also

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Notes

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  1. ^ Some journeys omit Melkridge, running direct via A69.

References

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  1. ^ "Northumberland Knowledge Census Fact Sheet" (PDF).
  2. ^ Northumberland Place-Names, by Stan Beckensall, Butler Publishing 2004, ISBN 0-946928-41-X
  3. ^ "Northern English – Cambridge University Press".
  4. ^ Graham, Frank (1992). Hexham and Corbridge: a Short History and Guide. Thropton, Rothbury, Northumberland: Butler Publishing. pp. 2, 4, 5. ISBN 0-946928-19-3.
  5. ^ By modern counting, the 8th day before. By Roman counting the xth day was (y-x+1) days before the yth day: see Roman calendar#Months.
  6. ^ Kirby, pp. 153–154; Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, Ms. D, s.a. 789.
  7. ^ "Neville's Cross Campaign 1346". Battlefields Trust. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  8. ^ Ordnance Survey OL43 map, 'Hadrian's Wall'.
  9. ^ "Journal of the House of Lords May 1572". Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  10. ^ "Journal of the House of Commons May 1572". Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  11. ^ Gibson, William Sidney (1850). Dilston hall; or, Memoirs of James Radcliffe, Earl of Derwentwater. Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans. p. 58.
  12. ^ a b The Roxburghshire word-book: being a record of the special vernacular vocabulary of the county of Roxburgh, with an appendix of specimens by George Watson, The University Press, 1923. p. 170
  13. ^ "Hexham Riot". Archived from the original on 21 October 2008. Retrieved 10 November 2008.
  14. ^ Historic England. "The Priory Church of St Andrew (1042576)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  15. ^ Historic England. "The Shambles (1370800)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  16. ^ Arnold, Howard, Litton (2004). "Tree-Ring Analysis of Timbers from the Moot Hall, Market Place, Hexham. Historic England Research Report 41/2004". research.historicengland.org.uk. Retrieved 10 May 2020.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  17. ^ Historic England. "The Moot Hall (1042577)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  18. ^ Historic England. "The Manor Office (1281526)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  19. ^ Historic England. "The Leazes (1204227)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 3 January 2019.
  20. ^ "Hexham Library". Northumberland Life. Retrieved 30 August 2021.
  21. ^ "Hexham Library". Northumberland County Council. Archived from the original on 4 July 2014. Retrieved 30 August 2021.
  22. ^ "4th Battalion, The Royal Northumberland Fusiliers". Regiments.org. Archived from the original on 20 October 2007. Retrieved 8 July 2017.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown (link)
  23. ^ "Hexham Parliamentary constituency". BBC News. Retrieved 5 July 2024.
  24. ^ Muncaster, Michael (29 November 2016). "Convoy of vintage buses marks official opening of new Hexham Bus Station". ChronicleLive. Retrieved 18 June 2020.
  25. ^ "Hexham's new bus station is just the ticket". Go North East. 30 November 2016. Retrieved 20 February 2020.
  26. ^ "A Blooming Good Show by the North". The Journal. 29 September 2005.
  27. ^ "Hexham named England's favourite market town 2005". Tynedale Council. 24 November 2005. Archived from the original on 27 June 2006.
  28. ^ "Where is the happiest place to live near you? | Property blog". rightmove.co.uk. 24 November 2021. Retrieved 30 November 2021.
  29. ^ "Major Hexham employer Egger UK". 4 February 2018.
  30. ^ "Hexham employer Egger UK posts rise". 27 January 2017.
  31. ^ Rowland, T. H. (1994). Waters of Tyne (Reprint ed.). Warkworth, Northumberland, England: Sandhill Press Ltd. ISBN 0-946098-36-0.
  32. ^ "Hexham Shops". visithexham.net/. Archived from the original on 2 February 2017. Retrieved 23 January 2017.
  33. ^ "Hexham Racecourse – Horse Racing – Homepage".
  34. ^ "Hexham Town Twinning". Hexham Town Twinning. Retrieved 14 December 2021.
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