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Berluti

Berluti is a French leather maker that manufactures menswear, especially the leather finishing of calfskin, kangaroo leather and alligator skin[1] in its production of shoes and boots. It makes leather belts, bags, and wallets, as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear garments. Established in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti of Marche, Berluti is based in Paris on rue Marbeuf. The brand was bought by LVMH in 1993.[2]

Berluti
Company typeSubsidiary
IndustryFashion
Founded1895; 129 years ago (1895)
FounderAlessandro Berluti
Headquarters
Paris
,
France
ProductsShoes, boots, leatherware
ParentLVMH
Websitewww.berluti.com
Berluti original store on rue Marbeuf in the 8th arrondissement of Paris

In 2023, the brand returned to Paris Fashion Week despite operating without a creative director.[3] The role was most recently held by Kris Van Assche from 2018 to 2021.[4]

History

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Logo until 2018
 
Alessandro Sartori was Berluti's creative director for 5 years, overseeing its first clothing collections

Berluti was founded in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti, and later run by Olga Squeri, also known as Olga Berluti.[5] The LVMH group acquired Berluti in 1993. In 2012, Berluti acquired Paris tailor house Arnys and launched its first prêt-à-porter menswear collections.[6]

In 2011, Olga Berluti was named creative director of the Berluti Art line.[7]

From 2011 to 2023, Berluti was headed by LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's son, Antoine Arnault, who also serves as the chairman of Loro Piana.[8] In March 2014, Isabella Capece Galeota became director of image and communications.[9][10]

Between 2011 and 2014, Berluti increased its annual revenue from less than 30 million euros ($32.6 million) to €100 million ($109 million), having expanded its product offering, bought a custom atelier and increased its global store network to 46 boutiques.[11]

In 2013, Berluti worked with Dutch artist Maarten Baas on created a series of sculptures.[12]

In 2017, Berluti introduced a sunglass collection in collaboration with Oliver Peoples.[13]

In 2018, creative director Kris Van Assche reconfigured the existing Berluti logo based on one he found carved into a shoe last and devised with M/M Paris.[14]

All the footwear manufacturing and leather goods are produced in the town of Gaibanella in the municipality of Ferrara,[15] while Paris is the location of the corporate headquarters.

Berluti designed uniforms for the French team at the opening ceremony of the 2024 Olympics and Paralympics in France.[16][17]

Creative directors

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Recognition

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In 2017 Business of Fashion named Berluti among the 16 best companies to work for in the fashion industry.[28]

References

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  1. ^ Berluti Stores
  2. ^ LVMH Using Berluti Brand as a Steppingstone in Menswear Wall Street Journal, Christina Passariello, January 29, 2014
  3. ^ Diderich, Joelle (18 January 2023). "Berluti Returns to Paris Fashion Week With a New Approach". WWD. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
  4. ^ The Challenge of Freedom: Kris Van Assche on Rebooting Berluti Luke Leitch, vogue.com 17 January 2019
  5. ^ "Olga Berluti" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 November 2013. Retrieved 1 December 2013.
  6. ^ Masidlover, Nadya (15 June 2012). "LVMH Acquires Taste for Bespoke". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  7. ^ Katya Foreman (26 September 2011), Olga Berluti Assumes Berluti Creative Role Women's Wear Daily.
  8. ^ businessoffashion.com Antoine Arnault
  9. ^ Socha, Miles (17 March 2014). "Louis Vuitton Taps Edouard Schneider to Head P.R." WWD. Retrieved 18 March 2014.
  10. ^ Miles Socha (21 November 2023), Antoine Arnault to Relinquish CEO Role at Berluti Women's Wear Daily.
  11. ^ Elizabeth Paton (2 February 2016), Changes at Brioni and Berluti Continue Designer Shuffle New York Times.
  12. ^ Rachel Felder (5 December 2013), Berluti Does Basel Women's Wear Daily.
  13. ^ Miles Socha (28 October 2016), Berluti, Oliver Peoples Team for Eyewear Women's Wear Daily.
  14. ^ Alexander Fury (18 January 2019), AW19 Paris mens: The Berluti re-boot Financial Times.
  15. ^ WW, FashionNetwork com. "Berluti picks up speed with a large production site in Italy". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  16. ^ Mimosa Spencer (16 November 2023), LVMH's Berluti to design Olympics opening ceremony uniforms for French teams Reuters.
  17. ^ Dazed (25 July 2024). "The hardest Olympic uniforms of all time". Dazed. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
  18. ^ berluti.com Alessandro Sartori Retrieved 5 November 2015
  19. ^ Kate Abnett, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann Creative Director businessoffashion.com 1 September 2016
  20. ^ LUKE LEITCH Why Haider Ackermann’s New Berluti Gig Is Menswear’s Most Tantalizing Appointment Archived 3 September 2016 at the Wayback Machine vogue.com 1 September 2016
  21. ^ Vanessa Friedman, Haider Ackermann Named Creative Director of Berluti The New York Times 2016/09/01
  22. ^ Megan Gustashaw, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann as Creative Director GQ.com
  23. ^ Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017
  24. ^ Fall/Winter 2017 Archived 9 May 2017 at the Wayback Machine berluti.com
  25. ^ Schneier, Matthew (30 March 2018). "Haider Ackermann Exits Berluti". The New York Times. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
  26. ^ Yotka, Steff (3 April 2018). "Kris Van Assche Named Artistic Director at Berluti". Vogue. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
  27. ^ "Login • Instagram". Archived from the original on 24 December 2021. {{cite web}}: Cite uses generic title (help)
  28. ^ Taylor Branson, THE FASHION COMPANIES YOU SHOULD BE WORKING FOR RIGHT NOW: Business of Fashion released their first-ever report on the best companies to work for in fashion. harpersbazaar.com 24 April 2017
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