Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, In Vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis
"> Figure 1
<p>Formulations spreadability during the stability test. T0: time zero; T15: time 15 days; mm<sup>2</sup>: square millimeters; * significant statistical difference (<span class="html-italic">p</span> < 0.05). F1: 2% of LEV; F2: 1% of SOP; F3: 0.3% of OCP; F4: 1% of LEV and 0.5% of SOP; F5: 0.5% of SOP and 0.15% of OCP; F6: 1% of LEV and 0.15% of OCP; F7: 0.66% of LEV, 0.1% of OCP and 0.33% of SOP.</p> "> Figure 2
<p>Moisture retention presented by the formulations before and after the stability study. T0: time zero, before stability study; T15: 15 days after stability study; %MR: Moisture retention percentage. F1: 2% of LEV; F2: 1% of SOP; F3: 0.3% of OCP; F4: 1% of LEV and 0.5% of SOP; F5: 0.5% of SOP and 0.15% of OCP; F6: 1% of LEV and 0.15% of OCP; F7: 0.66% of LEV, 0.1% of OCP and 0.33% of SOP.</p> "> Figure 3
<p>Response surface and profiles for predicted values and desirability for the spreadability of formulations.</p> "> Figure 4
<p>Response surface and profiles for predicted values and desirability for the antioxidant activity of the formulations.</p> "> Figure 5
<p>Response surface and profiles for predicted values and desirability for moisture retention of formulations.</p> "> Figure 6
<p>Joint optimization of actives to select the optimal formulation of the study, which was: 0.4% of LEV and 0.8% of SOP.</p> "> Figure 7
<p>Study diagram covering the exclusions and inclusions of participants obtained throughout the in vivo study.</p> "> Figure 8
<p>Photo documentation of the labial region during the study development period. FB refers to participants who applied the control formulation and FT to those who applied the test formulation of the study. T0 corresponds to the period prior to application of lip balms and T7 after their daily use.</p> "> Figure 9
<p>Frequency of using lip balms by study participants.</p> "> Figure 10
<p>Radar graph to compare the intensity verified for each attribute by the study participants. Orange line: FB; blue line: FT.</p> "> Figure 11
<p>Evaluation of the moisturizing effect of the test formulation (FT) by study participants after 7 days of daily application.</p> ">
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Microorganisms and Essential Oil
2.2. Obtaining Biomolecules
2.2.1. Levan (LEV)
2.2.2. Sophorolipids (SOPs)
2.3. Assessment of the Antibacterial Activity of Actives
2.3.1. Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC)
2.3.2. Antimicrobial Effect of SOPs and CP in Combination
2.4. Assessment of the Antioxidant Activity of Actives
2.5. Development of Cosmetic Formulations
2.6. Pharmacotechnical Characterization of Formulations
2.6.1. Pre-Stability Test
2.6.2. Organoleptic Tests
2.6.3. Spreadability
2.6.4. Moisture Retention
2.6.5. Assessment of the Antioxidant Activity of Formulations
2.6.6. Preliminary Stability of Formulations
2.7. Response Surface Method (RSM)
2.8. Optimized Formulation Development
2.9. Evaluation of In Vivo Efficacy and Sensory Analysis of Formulations
2.9.1. Study Population
2.9.2. Study Design
2.9.3. Hydration Analysis
2.9.4. Sensory Analysis
2.10. Statistical Analysis
3. Results
3.1. Obtaining LEV and SOP
3.2. Antimicrobial Activity of Biomolecules
3.3. Assessment of the Antioxidant Activity of Actives
3.4. Development of Cosmetic Formulations
3.5. Pharmacotechnical Characterization of Formulations
3.6. Preliminary Stability Data of Formulations
3.7. Antioxidant Activity of Formulations
3.8. Response Surface Method (RSM)
3.8.1. Spreadability
3.8.2. Antioxidant Activity
3.8.3. Moisture Retention
3.8.4. Formulation Selection Based on Response Surface Analysis
3.9. In Vivo Efficacy and Sensory Analysis of Formulations
4. Discussion
5. Conclusions
6. Patents
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
- Gfeller, C.F.; Wanser, R.; Mahalingam, H.; Moore, D.J.; Wang, X.; Lin, C.B.; Shanga, G.; Grove, G.; Rawlings, A.V. A Series of In Vitro and Human Studies of a Novel Lip Cream Formulation for Protecting against Environmental Triggers of Recurrent Herpes Labialis. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2019, 12, 193–208. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Bielfeldt, S.; Laing, S.; Sadowski, T.; Gunt, H.; Wilhelm, K.P. Characterization and Validation of an in Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy Led Tri-Method Approach in the Evaluation of the Lip Barrier. Ski. Res. Technol. 2019, 26, 390–397. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Bielfeldt, S.; Blaak, J.; Laing, S.; Schleißinger, M.; Theiss, C.; Wilhelm, K.P.; Staib, P. Deposition of Plant Lipids after Single Application of a Lip Care Product Determined by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy, Corneometry and Transepidermal Water-Loss. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2019, 41, 281–291. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Tamura, E.; Ishikawa, J.; Naoe, A.; Yamamoto, T. The Roughness of Lip Skin Is Related to the Ceramide Profile in the Stratum Corneum. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2016, 38, 615–621. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Pop, R.; Zsuzsa, S. Social Media Goes Green: The Impact of Social Media on Green Cosmetics Purchase Motivation and Intention. Information 2020, 11, 447. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Amberg, N.; Fogarassy, C. Green Consumer Behaviour in Cosmetic Market. Resoure 2019, 8, 137. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Burlando, B.; Cornara, L. Honey in dermatology and skin care: A review. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2013, 12, 306–313. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Grand View Research. Available online: https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/dermocosmetics-skin-care-products-market-report (accessed on 27 October 2023).
- Khan, N.; Ahmed, S.; Sheraz, M.A.; Anwar, Z.; Ahmad, I. Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums. Profiles Drug Subst. Excip. Relat. Methodol. 2023, 48, 167–210. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Bianchet, R.T.; Vieira Cubas, A.L.; Machado, M.M.; Siegel Moecke, E.H. Applicability of Bacterial Cellulose in Cosmetics—Bibliometric Review. Biotechnol. Rep. 2020, 27, e00502. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Gomes, C.; Silva, A.C.; Marques, A.C.; Lobo, J.S.; Amaral, M.H. Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics and Aesthetic Medicines. Cosmetics 2020, 7, 33. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Dahmer, D.; Bergamini, T.A.; Bigotto, B.G.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C.; Lonni, A.A.S.G. Cosméticos labiais: Tendência verde e emprego da biotecnologia. In Farmácia Hospitalar e Clínica e Prescrição Farmacêutica, 1st ed.; Pessoa, D.L.R., Ed.; Atena: Ponta Grossa, Brazil, 2022; pp. 56–70. ISBN 978-65-258-0665-5. [Google Scholar]
- De Siqueira, E.C.; Rebouças, J.D.S.; Pinheiro, I.O.; Formiga, F.R. Levan-Based Nanostructured Systems: An Overview. Int. J. Pharm. 2020, 580, 119242. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Da Silva, R.T.; Bersaneti, G.T.; Lonni, A.A.S.G.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Produção de levana e sua aplicação em cosméticos. In A Produção do Conhecimento nas Ciências Biológicas; De Oliveira, J.M.B., Jr., Ed.; Atena: Ponta Grossa, Brazil, 2019; pp. 22–35. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kim, K.H.; Chung, C.B.; Kim, Y.H.; Kim, K.S.; Han, C.S.; Kim, C.H. Cosmeceutical Properties of Levan Produced by Zymomonas mobilis. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2005, 56, 395–406. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Choi, W.I.; Hwang, Y.; Sahu, A.; Min, K.; Sung, D.; Tae, G.; Chang, J.H. An Injectable and Physical Levan-Based Hydrogel as a Dermal Filler for Soft Tissue Augmentation. Biomater. Sci. 2018, 6, 2627–2638. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Pei, F.; Ma, Y.; Chen, X.; Liu, H. Purification and Structural Characterization and Antioxidant Activity of Levan from Bacillus Megaterium PFY-147. Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2020, 161, 1181–1188. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Domżał-Kędzia, M.; Lewińska, A.; Jaromin, A.; Weselski, M.; Pluskota, R.; Łukaszewicz, M. Fermentation Parameters and Conditions Affecting Levan Production and Its Potential Applications in Cosmetics. Bioorg. Chem. 2019, 93, 102787. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Bouallegue, A.; Casillo, A.; Chaari, F.; La Gatta, A.; Lanzetta, R.; Corsaro, M.M.; Bachoual, R.; Ellouz-Chaabouni, S. Levan from a New Isolated Bacillus subtilis AF17: Purification, Structural Analysis and Antioxidant Activities. Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2020, 144, 316–324. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Da Silva, R.T.; Bersaneti, G.T.; Chideroli, R.T.; Pereira, U.D.P.; Lonni, A.A.S.G.; Bigotto, B.G.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Propriedades Biológicas Da Levana de Bacillus subtilis natto e Do Óleo Essencial de Canela Para Aplicação Em Formulações Cosmecêuticas. Braz. J. Dev. 2020, 6, 23009–23024. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Helenas, J.K.; Bersaneti, G.T.; Silva, R.T.D.; Bigotto, B.G.; Lonni, A.A.S.G.; Borsato, D.; Baldo, C.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Development of Facial Cosmetic Formulations Using Microbial Levan in Association with Plant-Derived Compounds Using Simple Lattice Design. Braz. Arch. Biol. Technol. 2023, 66, 1–11. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Hipólito, A.; Alves da Silva, R.A.; Caretta, T.D.O.; Silveira, V.A.I.; Amador, I.R.; Panagio, L.A.; Borsato, D.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Evaluation of the Antifungal Activity of Sophorolipids from Starmerella Bombicola against Food Spoilage Fungi. Biocatal. Agric. Biotechnol. 2020, 29, 101797. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Gaur, V.K.; Regar, R.K.; Dhiman, N.; Gautam, K.; Srivastava, J.K.; Patnaik, S.; Kamthan, M.; Manickam, N. Biosynthesis and Characterization of Sophorolipid Biosurfactant by Candida spp.: Application as Food Emulsifier and Antibacterial Agent. Bioresour. Technol. 2019, 285, 121314. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Hipólito, A.; Caretta, T.D.O.; Silveira, V.A.I.; Bersaneti, G.T.; Mali, S.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Active Biodegradable Cassava Starch Films Containing Sophorolipids Produced by Starmerella Bombicola ATCC® 22214TM. J. Polym. Environ. 2021, 29, 3199–3209. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Costa, E.M.; Bigotto, B.G.; Dahmer, D.; Queiroz, C.A.U.D.; Baldo, C.; Lonni, A.A.S.G.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Development of a Multifunctional Lipstick with Sophorolipids Produced By Starmerella Bombicola. Int. J. Health Sci. 2022, 2, 2–10. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Filipe, G.A.; Bigotto, B.; Baldo, C.; Gonçalves, M.C.; Kobayashi, R.K.T.; Lonni, A.A.S.G.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Development of a Multifunctional and Self-Preserving Cosmetic Formulation Using Sophorolipids and Palmarosa Essential Oil against Acne-Causing Bacteria. J. Appl. Microbiol. 2022, 133, 1534–1542. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Maeng, Y.; Kim, K.T.; Zhou, X.; Jin, L.; Kim, K.S.; Kim, Y.H.; Lee, S.; Park, J.H.; Chen, X.; Kong, M.; et al. A Novel Microbial Technique for Producing High-Quality Sophorolipids from Horse Oil Suitable for Cosmetic Applications. Microb. Biotechnol. 2018, 11, 917–929. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Sharmeen, J.B.; Mahomoodally, F.M.; Zengin, G.; Maggi, F. Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals. Molecules 2021, 26, 666. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Cunha, C.; Ribeiro, H.M.; Rodrigues, M.; Araujo, A.R.T.S. Essential Oils Used in Dermocosmetics: Review about Its Biological Activities. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2022, 21, 513–529. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Dosoky, N.S.; Setzer, W.N. Biological Activities and Safety of Citrus spp. Essential Oils. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2018, 19, 1966. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Melo, M.O.D.; Campos, P.M.M. Técnicas de Biofísica e Imagens Da Pele Na Pesquisa Clínica. Cosmet. Toilet. 2016, 28, 36–39. [Google Scholar]
- Westermann, T.V.A.; Viana, V.R.; Berto Junior, C.; Detoni da Silva, C.B.; Carvalho, E.L.S.; Pupe, C.G. Measurement of Skin Hydration with a Portable Device (SkinUp® Beauty Device) and Comparison with the Corneometer®. Skin. Res. Technol. 2020, 26, 571–576. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Anthonissen, M.; Daly, D.; Peeters, R.; Van Brussel, M.; Fieuws, S.; Moortgat, P.; Flour, M.; Van den Kerckhove, E. Reliability of Repeated Measurements on Post-Burn Scars with Corneometer CM 825. Ski. Res. Technol. 2015, 21, 302–312. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Scarano, A.; Puglia, F.; Cassese, R.; Mordente, I.; Amore, R.; Ferraro, G.; Sbarbati, A.; Russo, L.; Amuso, D. Hyaluronic acid fillers in lip augmentation procedure: A clinical and histological study. J. Biol. Regul. Homeost. Agents 2019, 33, 32425030. [Google Scholar] [PubMed]
- Fossa Shirata, M.M.; Campos, P.M.B.G.M. Importância Do Perfil de Textura e Sensorial No Desenvolvimento de Formulações Cosméticas. Surg. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2016, 8, 223–230. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Martins, V.B.; Bordim, J.; Bom, G.A.P.; Carvalho, J.G.D.S.; Parabocz, C.R.B.; Mitterer Daltoé, M.L. Consumer Profiling Techniques for Cosmetic Formulation Definition. J. Sens. Stud. 2020, 35, e12557. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Silveira, V.A.I.; Nishio, E.K.; Freitas, C.A.U.Q.; Amador, I.R.; Kobayashi, R.K.T.; Caretta, T.; Macedo, F.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Production and Antimicrobial Activity of Sophorolipid against Clostridium Perfringens and Campylobacter Jejuni and Their Additive Interaction with Lactic Acid. Biocatal. Agric. Biotechnol. 2019, 21, 101287. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- CLSI Standard M07-A10; Methods for Dilution Antimicrobial Susceptibility Tests for Bacteria That Grow Aerobically. 11th ed. Clinical and Laboratory Standards Institute: Wayne, PA, USA, 2021.
- García-García, R.; López-Malo, A.; Palou, E. Bactericidal Action of Binary and Ternary Mixtures of Carvacrol, Thymol, and Eugenol against Listeria innocua. J. Food Sci. 2011, 76, 95–100. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Srikanth, R.; Siddartha, G.; Sundhar Reddy, C.H.S.S.; Harish, B.S.; Janaki Ramaiah, M.; Uppuluri, K.B. Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Levan Produced from Acetobacter Xylinum NCIM2526 and Its Statistical Optimization. Carbohydr. Polym. 2015, 123, 8–16. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária (ANVISA). Ministério da Saúde. Guia de Estabilidade de Produtos Cosméticos, 1st ed.; ANVISA: Brasília, Brazil, 2004; Volume 1, p. 52. ISBN 85-88233-15-0. [Google Scholar]
- Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária (ANVISA). Ministério da Saúde. Guia de Controle de Qualidade de Produtos Cosméticos, 2nd ed.; ANVISA: Brasília, Brazil, 2008; Volume 1, p. 120. ISBN 978-85-88233-34-8. [Google Scholar]
- Knorst, M.T. Desenvolvimento Tecnológico de Forma Farmacêutica Plástica Contendo Extrato Concentrado de Achyrocline satureioides (Lam.). Master’s Thesis, Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul (UFRGS), Porto Alegre, Brazil, 1991. [Google Scholar]
- Zhang, Z.S.; Wang, X.M.; Han, Z.P.; Zhao, M.X.; Yin, L. Purification, Antioxidant and Moisture-Preserving Activities of Polysaccharides from Papaya. Carbohydr. Polym. 2012, 87, 2332–2337. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Gunt, H.; Levy, S.B. Efficacy of a Nature-Based Lip Treatment to Repair Dry Damaged Lips: Clinical and Biophysical Assessments. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2020, 83, AB168. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Isoda, K.; Nakamura, T.; Yoshida, K.; Tamura, E.; Atsuta, N.; Ishida, K.; Takagi, Y.; Mizutani, H. The Efficacy of a Lip Balm Containing Pseudo-Ceramide on the Dry Lips of Sensitive Skin-Conscious Subjects. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2018, 17, 84–89. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Fisher, N.; Fisher, N. An Open Observational Trial of a Novel Peptide and Hyaluronic Acid Based Lip Cosmetic. J. Plast. Pathol. Dermatol. 2020, 16, 179–184. [Google Scholar]
- Isaac, V.; Chiari, B.G.; Magnani, C.; Corrêa, M.A. Análise Sensorial Como Ferramenta Útil No Desenvolvimento de Cosméticos. Rev. Cienc. Farm. Basica Apl. 2012, 33, 479–488. [Google Scholar]
- Mosquera Tayupanta, T.D.L.Á.; Espadero, M.; Mancheno, M.; Peña, S.; Uguña, A.; Álvarez, S.; Vega, M.A. Sensory Analysis of Cosmetic Formulations Made with Essential Oils of Aristeguietia Glutinosa (Matico) and Ocotea Quixos (Ishpingo). Int. J. Phytocosmet. Nat. Ingred. 2018, 5, 5. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Guest, S.; Essick, G.K.; Mehrabyan, A.; Dessirier, J.M.; McGlone, F. Effect of Hydration on the Tactile and Thermal Sensitivity of the Lip. Physiol. Behav. 2014, 123, 127–135. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Richard, C. Lipstick Adhesion Measurement. In Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics; Mittal, K.L., Bui, H.S., Eds.; Scrivener Publishing LLC: Beverly, CA, USA, 2021; Volume 1, pp. 635–662. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Gojgic-Cvijovic, G.D.; Jakovljevic, D.M.; Loncarevic, B.D.; Todorovic, N.M.; Pergal, M.V.; Ciric, J.; Loos, K.; Beskoski, V.P.; Vrvic, M.M. Production of levan by Bacillus licheniformis NS032 in sugar beet molasses-based medium. Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 2019, 121, 142–151. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- dos Santos, L.F.; Bazani Cabral De Melo, F.C.; Martins Paiva, W.J.; Borsato, D.; Corradi Custódio Da Silva, M.D.L.; Colabone Celligoi, M.A.P. Characterization and Optimization of Levan Production by Bacillus subtilis NATTO. Rom. Biotechnol. Lett. 2013, 18, 8413–8422. [Google Scholar]
- Bersaneti, G.T.; Pan, N.C.; Baldo, C.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Co-Production of Fructooligosaccharides and Levan by Levansucrase from Bacillus subtilis natto with Potential Application in the Food Industry. Appl. Biochem. Biotechnol. 2018, 184, 838–851. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Ko, H.; Bae, J.H.; Sung, B.H.; Kim, M.J.; Kim, C.H.; Oh, B.R.; Sohn, J.H. Efficient Production of Levan Using a Recombinant Yeast Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Hypersecreting a Bacterial Levansucrase. J. Ind. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 2019, 46, 1611–1620. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Wang, J.; Xu, X.; Zhao, F.; Yin, N.; Zhou, Z.; Han, Y. Biosynthesis and Structural Characterization of Levan by a Recombinant Levansucrase from Bacillus subtilis ZW019. Waste Biomass Valorization 2022, 13, 4599–4609. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Adrio, J.L.; Demain, A.L. Microbial enzymes: Tools for biotechnological processes. Biomolecules 2014, 4, 117–139. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Caretta, T.O.; I Silveira, V.A.; Andrade, G.; Macedo, F.; P C Celligoi, M.A. Antimicrobial Activity of Sophorolipids Produced by Starmerella Bombicola against Phytopathogens from Cherry Tomato. J. Sci. Food Agric. 2022, 102, 1245–1254. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Intasit, R.; Soontorngun, N. Enhanced Palm Oil-Derived Sophorolipid Production from Yeast to Generate Biodegradable Plastic Precursors. Ind. Crops Prod. 2023, 192, 116091. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kim, J.H.; Oh, Y.R.; Han, S.W.; Jang, Y.A.; Hong, S.H.; Ahn, J.H.; Eom, G.T. Enhancement of Sophorolipids Production in Candida Batistae, an Unexplored Sophorolipids Producer, by Fed-Batch Fermentation. Bioprocess Biosyst. Eng. 2021, 44, 831–839. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Uysal, B.; Sozmen, F.; Aktas, O.; Oksal, B.S.; Kose, E.O. Essential Oil Composition and Antibacterial Activity of the Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi. L) Peel Essential Oils Obtained by Solvent-Free Microwave Extraction: Comparison with Hydrodistillation. Int. J. Food Sci. Technol. 2011, 46, 1455–1461. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Jung, I.H.; Kim, J.H.; Yoo, Y.J.; Park, B.Y.; Choi, E.S.; Noh, H. A Pilot Study of Occupational Exposure to Pathogenic Microorganisms through Lip Cosmetics among Dental Hygienists. J. Occup. Health 2019, 61, 297–304. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Kim, S.-H. Analysis of Correlation among Oral Environment, Oral Myofunction, and Oral Microorganisms. J. Dent. Hyg. Sci. 2019, 19, 96–106. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Amin, D.; Satishchandran, S.; Drew, S.; Abramowicz, S. Diagnosis and Treatment of Lip Infections. J. Oral Maxillofac. Surg. 2021, 79, 133–140. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Alkhars, N.; Zeng, Y.; Alomeir, N.; Al Jallad, N.; Wu, T.T.; Aboelmagd, S.; Youssef, M.; Jang, H.; Fogarty, C.; Xiao, J. Oral Candida Predicts Streptococcus Mutans Emergence in Underserved US Infants. J. Dent. Res. 2022, 101, 54–62. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Da Fontoura, I.C.C.; Saikawa, G.I.A.; Silveira, V.A.I.; Pan, N.C.; Amador, I.R.; Baldo, C.; da Rocha, S.P.D.; Celligoi, M.A.P.C. Antibacterial Activity of Sophorolipids from Candida Bombicola against Human Pathogens. Braz. Arch. Biol. Technol. 2020, 63, 1–10. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Ashby, R.D.; Solaiman, D.K.Y.; Fan, X.; Olanya, M. Antimicrobial Potential of Sophorolipids for Anti-Acne, Anti-Dental Caries, Hide Preservation, and Food Safety Applications. ACS Symp. Ser. 2018, 1287, 193–208. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Cho, W.Y.; Ng, J.F.; Yap, W.H. Sophorolipids—Bio-Based Antimicrobial Formulating Agents. Molecules 2022, 27, 5556. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Denkova-Kostova, R.; Teneva, D.; Tomova, T.; Goranov, B.; Denkova, Z.; Shopska, V.; Slavchev, A.; Hristova-Ivanova, Y. Chemical Composition, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Essential Oils from Tangerine (Citrus reticulata L.), Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi L.), Lemon (Citrus lemon L.) and Cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum Blume). Z. Fur Naturforsch.–Sect. C J. Biosci. 2021, 76, 175–185. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Deng, W.; Liu, K.; Cao, S.; Sun, J.; Zhong, B.; Chun, J. And Antiproliferative Properties of Grapefruit. Molecules 2020, 25, 217. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Filoche, S.K.; Soma, K.; Sissons, C.H. Antimicrobial Effects of Essential Oils in Combination with Chlorhexidine Digluconate. Oral Microbiol. Immunol. 2005, 20, 221–225. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Viuda-Martos, M.; Ruiz-Navajas, Y.; Fernández-López, J.; Perez-Álvarez, J. Antibacterial Activity of Lemon (Citrus lemon L.), Mandarin (Citrus reticulata L.), Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi L.) and Orange (Citrus sinensis L.) essential oil. J. Food Saf. 2007, 28, 567–576. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Okunowo, W.O.; Oyedeji, O.; Afolabi, L.O.; Matanmi, E. Essential Oil of Grape Fruit (Citrus paradisi) Peels and Its Antimicrobial Activities. Am. J. Plant Sci. 2013, 4, 34556. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Vasek, O.M.; Cáceres, L.M.; Chamorro, E.R.; Velasco, G.A. Antibacterial Activity of Citrus paradisi Essential Oil. J. Nat. Prod. 2015, 8, 16–26. [Google Scholar]
- Ou, M.C.; Liu, Y.H.; Sun, Y.W.; Chan, C.F. The Composition, Antioxidant and Antibacterial Activities of Cold-Pressed and Distilled Essential Oils of Citrus paradisi and Citrus grandis (L.) Osbeck. Evid.-Based Complement. Altern. Med. 2015, 2015, 804091. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Lin, C.W.; Yu, C.W.; Wu, S.C.; Yih, K.H. DPPH Free-Radical Scavenging Activity, Total Phenolic Contents and Chemical Composition Analysis of Forty-Two Kinds of Essential Oils. J. Food Drug Anal. 2009, 17, 386–395. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Yang, S.A.; Jeon, S.K.; Lee, E.J.; Shim, C.H.; Lee, I.S. Comparative Study of the Chemical Composition and Antioxidant Activity of Six Essential Oils and Their Components. Nat. Prod. Res. 2010, 24, 140–151. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kumari, A.; Kumari, S.; Prasad, G.S.; Pinnaka, A.K. Production of Sophorolipid Biosurfactant by Insect Derived Novel Yeast Metschnikowia churdharensis f.a., sp. nov., and Its Antifungal Activity Against Plant and Human Pathogens. Front. Microbiol. 2021, 12, 678668. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kim, S.J.; Chung, B.H. Antioxidant activity of levan coated cerium oxide nanoparticles. Carbohydr. Polym. 2016, 5, 400–407. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Hertadi, R.; Umriani Permatasari, N.; Ratnaningsih, E. Box-Wilson Design for Optimization of in vitro Levan Production and Levan Application as Antioxidant and Antibacterial Agents. Iran. Biomed. J. 2021, 1, 202–212. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kaczmarczyk, D.; Strub, D.J.; Polowy, A.; Wilk, K.A.; Lochyński, S. Selected Essential Oils in Cosmetic Emulsions: Process Oriented Stability Studies and Antimicrobial Activity. Nat. Volatiles Essent. Oils. 2015, 2, 27–39. [Google Scholar]
- Moharram, H.; Ray, J.; Ozbas, S.; Juliani, H.; Simon, J. Shea Butter: Chemistry, Quality, and New Market Potentials. ACS Symp. Ser. 2006, 925, 326–340. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Yeboah, A.; Ying, S.; Lu, J.; Xie, Y.; Amoanimaa-Dede, H.; Boateng, K.G.A.; Chen, M.; Yin, X. Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis): A Review on the Chemical Composition and Physicochemical Properties. Food Sci. Technol. 2021, 41, 399–413. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Azwanida, N.N.; Normasarah, N.; Afandi, A. Utilization and Evaluation of Betalain Pigment from Red Dragon Fruit (Hylocereus polyrhizus) as a Natural Colorant for Lipstick. J. Teknol. 2014, 69, 139–142. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Azmin, S.N.H.M.; Jaine, N.I.M.; Nor, M.S.M. Physicochemical and Sensory Evaluations of Moisturising Lip Balm Using Natural Pigment from Beta Vulgaris. Cogent Eng. 2020, 7, 1788297. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kusrini, E.; Mawarni, D.P.; Wulandari, D.A.; Ayuningtyas, K.; Usman, A. Formulation and Characterization of Lip Balm Made from Beeswax, Almond Oil, Virgin Coconut Oil and Honey. AIP Conf. Proc. 2020, 2255, 070008. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Nastiti, G.P.; Qosim, A.; Puspitaningrum, N.; Fuadi, M.N.N. Formula Optimization From Halal Lip Cream Variety with Tomato Extract (Lycopersicum esculentum L.). J. Islam. Pharm. 2023, 8, 14–17. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kamairudin, N.; Abd Gani, S.S.; Fard Masoumi, H.R.; Hashim, P. Optimization of Natural Lipstick Formulation Based on Pitaya (Hylocereus polyrhizus) Seed Oil Using d-Optimal Mixture Experimental Design. Molecules 2014, 19, 16672–16683. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Poomanee, W.; Kongin, K.; Sriputorn, K.; Leelapornpisid, P. Application of Factorial Experimental Design for Optimization and Development of Color Lipstick Containing Antioxidant-Rich Sacha Inchi Oil. Pak. J. Pharm. Sci. 2021, 34, 1437–1444. [Google Scholar]
- Hill, W.J.; Hunter, W.G. A Review of Response Surface Methodology: A Literature Survey. Tecnometrics 1966, 8, 571–590. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Khuri, A.I.; Mukhopadhyay, S. Response Surface Methodology. Wiley Interdiscip. Rev. Comput. Stat. 2010, 2, 128–149. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Budiasih, S.; Masyitah, I.; Jiyauddin, K.; Kaleemullah, M.; Samer, A.D.; Fadli, A.M.; Yusuf, E. Formulation and Characterization of Cosmetic Serum Containing Argan Oil as Moisturizing Agent. In Proceedings of the BROMO Conference (BROMO 2018)—Symposium on Natural Product and Biodiversity, Surabaya, Indonesia, 3 June 2018; Science and Technology Publications, Lda: Setúbal, Portugal, 2018; pp. 297–304. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Gore, E.; Picard, C.; Savary, G. Spreading Behavior of Cosmetic Emulsions: Impact of the Oil Phase. Biotribology 2018, 16, 17–24. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Adu, S.A.; Naughton, P.J.; Marchant, R.; Banat, I.M. Microbial Biosurfactants in Cosmetic and Personal Skincare Pharmaceutical Formulations. Pharmaceutics 2020, 12, 1099. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Infante, V.H.P.; Leite, M.G.A.; Maia Campos, P.M.B.G. Film-Forming Properties of Topical Formulations for Skin and Hair: In Vivo and In Vitro Studies Using Biophysical and Imaging Techniques. AAPS PharmSciTech 2023, 24, 29. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Barthe, M.; Bavoux, C.; Finot, F.; Mouche, I.; Cuceu-Petrenci, C.; Forreryd, A.; Hansson, A.C.; Johansson, H.; Lemkine, G.F.; Thénot, J.P.; et al. Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products: Overview of Established Methods and New Approach Methodologies (Nams). Cosmetics 2021, 8, 50. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Heinrich, U.; Koop, U.; Leneveu-Duchemin, M.-C.; Osterrieder, K.; Bielfeldt, S.; Chkarnat, C.; Degwert, J.; Hantschel, D.; Jaspers, S.; Nissen, H.-P. Multicentre comparison of skin hydration in terms of physical-, physiological- and product-dependent parameters by the capacitive method (Corneometer CM 825). Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2003, 25, 45–53. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Böger, B.R.; Lonni, A.A.S.G.; Benassi, M.D.T. Characterization and Sensory Evaluation of a Cosmeceutical Formulation for the Eye Area with Roasted Coffee Oil Microcapsules. Cosmetics 2023, 10, 24. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Esposito, C.L.; Kirilov, P. Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics. Gels 2021, 7, 97. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
- Abidh, S.; Cuvelier, G.; de Clermont-Gallerande, H.; Navarro, S.; Delarue, J. The Role of Lipid Composition in the Sensory and Physical Properties of Lipsticks. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 2019, 96, 1143–1152. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Kasparaviciene, G.; Savickas, A.; Kalveniene, Z.; Velziene, S.; Kubiliene, L.; Bernatoniene, J. Evaluation of Beeswax Influence on Physical Properties of Lipstick Using Instrumental and Sensory Methods. Evid.-Based Complement. Altern. Med. 2016, 2016, 3816460. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef]
- Rafferty, D.W.; Dupin, L.; Zellia, J.; Giovannitti-Jensen, A. Predicting Lipstick Sensory Properties with Laboratory Tests. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2018, 40, 451–460. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
Attribute | Description |
---|---|
Ease of Spreading | How easy is it to apply the sample to the lips |
Absorption | The sample is absorbed through the lips and disappears into the skin |
Moisture | The sample hydrates the lips, replenishing their moisture |
Freshness | Pleasant sensation produced by the sample in contact with the lips; it refers to something fresh |
Velvet Film Formation | The surface of the lips has a soft and smooth texture after applying the sample |
Fragrance | The aroma/perfume that the sample presents |
SOP (mg·mL−1) | OCP (mg·mL−1) | FICI | Interaction | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
MIC | MICc | FIC | MIC | MICc | FIC | |||
S. aureus | 0.012 | 0.006 | 0.5 | 10.44 | 5.22 | 0.5 | 1.0 | Aditism |
S. epidermidis | 0.048 | 0.024 | 0.5 | 41.75 | 20.88 | 0.5 | 1.0 | Aditism |
S. mutans | 0.012 | 0.006 | 0.5 | 20.88 | 10.44 | 0.5 | 1.0 | Aditism |
Formulations | LEV | SOP | OCP | Actives Concentration (%/100 g) |
---|---|---|---|---|
F1 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 2.0% LEV |
F2 | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1.0% SOP |
F3 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 0.3% OCP |
F4 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 0 | 1.0% LEV + 0.5% SOP |
F5 | 0 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 0.5% SOP + 0.15% OCP |
F6 | 1/2 | 0 | 1/2 | 1.0% LEV + 0.15% OCP |
F7 | 1/3 | 1/3 | 1/3 | 0.66% LEV + 0.1% OCP + 0.33% SOP |
FB | 0 | 0 | 0 | No |
Formulations | PS | Aspect | Color | Odor | Flavor | Spreadability (mm2) | Moisture Retention (%) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
FB | NPS | V | White | N | N | 423.0 ± 42.6 | 97.92 ± 0.38 |
F1 | NPS | LV | White | N | N | 415.3 ± 21.5 | 97.70 ± 0.54 |
F2 | NPS | V | White | CPC | N | 909.6 ± 41.1 * | 96.29 ± 1.00 |
F3 | NPS | LV | White | N | N | 422.5 ± 20.8 | 97.32 ± 1.61 |
F4 | NPS | LV | White | CPC | N | 1170.0 ± 14.1 * | 95.30 ± 0.56 * |
F5 | NPS | V | White | CPC | N | 1217.1 ± 14.3 * | 97.71 ± 0.87 |
F6 | NPS | LV | White | CPC | N | 469.2 ± 5.1 | 97.42 ± 0.30 |
F7 | NPS | V | White | N | N | 1061.2 ± 7.4 | 97.56 ± 0.16 |
Formulation | % inhibition |
---|---|
F1 | 49.14 ± 2.38 |
F2 | 53.28 ± 0.38 |
F3 | 45.71 ± 0.38 * |
F4 | 52.70 ± 2.57 |
F5 | 47.60 ± 0.40 |
F6 | 46.05 ± 1.97 * |
F7 | 51.48 ± 1.99 |
FB | 51.32 ± 1.03 |
Essay | x1 | x2 | x3 | Antioxidant Activity (%) | Spreadability (mm2) | Moisture Retention (%) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1.000 | 0.000 | 0.000 | 49.14 | 415.30 | 97.70 |
2 | 0.000 | 1.000 | 0.000 | 53.28 | 909.60 | 96.29 |
3 | 0.000 | 0.000 | 1.000 | 45.71 | 422.50 | 97.32 |
4 | 0.500 | 0.500 | 0.000 | 52.70 | 1170.00 | 95.30 |
5 | 0.000 | 0.500 | 0.500 | 47.60 | 1217.00 | 97.71 |
6 | 0.500 | 0.000 | 0.500 | 46.05 | 469.20 | 97.42 |
7 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 52.57 | 1061.20 | 96.20 |
8 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 52.70 | 1084.90 | 96.34 |
9 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 49.18 | 1056.50 | 97.56 |
10 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 0.333 | 51.48 | 1075.80 | 96.78 |
Factors | Estimates | Standard Error | T-Value | p-Value |
---|---|---|---|---|
Levan (x1) | 415.30 | 11.96 | 34.74 | 0.000828 * |
Sophorolipid (x2) | 909.60 | 11.96 | 76.08 | 0.000173 * |
Citrus paradisi essential oil (x3) | 422.50 | 11.96 | 35.34 | 0.000800 * |
x1x2 | 2030.20 | 58.57 | 34.66 | 0.000831 * |
x1x3 | 201.20 | 58.57 | 3.44 | 0.075299 |
x2x3 | 2204.20 | 58.57 | 37.63 | 0.000705 * |
x1x2x3 | −36.30 | 316.77 | −0.11 | 0.919236 |
Factors | Estimates | Standard Error | T-Value | p-Value |
---|---|---|---|---|
Levan (x1) | 49.14 | 0.67 | 73.34 | 0.000186 * |
Sophorolipid (x2) | 53.28 | 0.67 | 79.52 | 0.000158 * |
Citrus paradisi essential oil (x3) | 45.71 | 0.67 | 68.22 | 0.000215 * |
x1x2 | 5.96 | 3.28 | 1.82 | 0.211055 |
x1x3 | −5.50 | 3.28 | −1.67 | 0.235796 |
x2x3 | −7.58 | 3.28 | −2.31 | 0.147203 |
x1x2x3 | 98.94 | 17.75 | 5.57 | 0.030716 * |
Factors | Estimates | Standard Error | T-Value | p-Value |
---|---|---|---|---|
Levan (x1) | 97.70 | 0.30 | 322.81 | 0.000010 * |
Sophorolipid (x2) | 96.29 | 0.30 | 318.15 | 0.000010 * |
Citrus paradisi essential oil (x3) | 97.32 | 0.30 | 321.55 | 0.000010 * |
x1x2 | −6.78 | 1.48 | −4.57 | 0.044646 * |
x1x3 | −0.36 | 1.48 | −0.24 | 0.830790 |
x2x3 | 3.62 | 1.48 | 2.44 | 0.134684 |
x1x2x3 | −7.35 | 8.02 | −0.92 | 0.456121 |
G1 | G2 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
Moisture (%) | Oiliness (%) | Moisture (%) | Oiliness (%) | |
Time 0 | 41.93 ± 11.4 | 28.61 ± 4.40 | 41.53 ± 10.6 | 28.95 ± 4.64 |
Time 7 | 45.15 ± 9.80 | 25.95 ± 4.04 | 44.55 ± 10.3 | 27.87 ± 6.03 |
Disclaimer/Publisher’s Note: The statements, opinions and data contained in all publications are solely those of the individual author(s) and contributor(s) and not of MDPI and/or the editor(s). MDPI and/or the editor(s) disclaim responsibility for any injury to people or property resulting from any ideas, methods, instructions or products referred to in the content. |
© 2023 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
Share and Cite
Dahmer, D.; Scandorieiro, S.; Bigotto, B.G.; Bergamini, T.A.; Germiniani-Cardozo, J.; da Costa, I.M.; Kobayashi, R.K.T.; Nakazato, G.; Borsato, D.; Prudencio, S.H.; et al. Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, In Vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis. Cosmetics 2023, 10, 166. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060166
Dahmer D, Scandorieiro S, Bigotto BG, Bergamini TA, Germiniani-Cardozo J, da Costa IM, Kobayashi RKT, Nakazato G, Borsato D, Prudencio SH, et al. Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, In Vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis. Cosmetics. 2023; 10(6):166. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060166
Chicago/Turabian StyleDahmer, Débora, Sara Scandorieiro, Briani Gisele Bigotto, Thays Amélio Bergamini, Jennifer Germiniani-Cardozo, Isabela Mazarim da Costa, Renata Katsuko Takayama Kobayashi, Gerson Nakazato, Dionísio Borsato, Sandra Helena Prudencio, and et al. 2023. "Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, In Vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis" Cosmetics 10, no. 6: 166. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060166