NORTH INDIA

Punjab
Phulkari, Salwar Kameez
Phulkari is a popular Indian form of embroidery where there is flower
work embroidery in multiple colours. It is the rural traditional Punjabi
dress for women of this region. It is a custom in Punjab to make a
Phulkari known as “bagh” (garden) on every ceremonial purpose. It is
made in such a way that the entire cloth is covered with embroidery
that the base cloth cannot be seen at all. The salwar kameez is the
most common Punjabi dress for women. A dupatta or a churni about
2.5 metres long generally completes the ensemble. It’s a matter of
pride for every Punjabi women to have a good collection of Woollen
Shawls.
Haryana
Damaan, Kurti and Chunder
Like Punjab, the costumes of Haryana are also very vibrant
and colourful. The simplicity of the people of Haryana and
their spirited enthusiasm for life is visible in their way of
dressing up. The basic traditional dress of Haryani women is
the Damaan, Kurti and Chunder. The Damaan is the ankle
length, flairy long skirt, available in bright colours. Kurti is a
waist length shirt or blouse, usually in light colours. Chunder
is actually the long, coloured piece of cloth like the churni.
The highlight of the Chunder is usually the shiny laces all
among the border and is used to cover the head and is drawn
in the front like the ‘pallu’ of a saree.
Jammu & Kashmir
Phiran
The most popular attire of women in Jammu and Kashmir is the
Phiran. Kashmiri Phiran is long, loose gowns that cover the physique of
the women. These gowns are decorated with colourful floral motifs
and designs. Whereas a Muslim woman wears a Phiran that is knee-
length, loose and embroidered in front and on the ends, a Hindu
woman wear their Phirans long, stretching up to their feet with
narrowed down sleeves. Phirans are tied at the waist with folded
material called ‘Lhungi’. Hindu women wear a “Taranga”, a headdress,
stitched to a suspended cap and it narrows down at the back, towards
the heels. On the other hand, Muslim Kashmiri women wear a red
headgear known as the “Kasaba”. The kasaba is stitched in the form of
a turban and is pinned together by brooches. A pin-scarf suspended
from the kasaba descends towards the shoulder. Elaborate
embroideries or floral patterns are a prominent feature of a Kashmiri
woman’s Phiran
Rajasthan
Ghaghra Choli
The traditional dress of a Rajasthani woman is the Ghagra-Choli
and Odhani. It is said that the width and the number of pleats
in the “Ghagra” or the long ankle length skirt symbolize one’s
prosperity. The dress is available in many colours and styles.
Rajasthan is famous for tie and dye prints or Bandhani prints.
The traditional dresses of Rajasthani women display a colourful
look with their colourful motifs and prints in tie dye. Rajasthan
traditional dresses of women are vibrant and extremely well-
suited to the climatic conditions of the desert region.
SOUTH INDIAN
Kerala
Mundum
The traditional dresses of Kerala reflect the inherent simplicity and the traditional
essence of the state. The most popular traditional dress of South Indian state of
Kerala is the Mundum Neriyatham, which is worn by both men and women. The
conventional piece is the ‘Mundu’ which is the lower garment and it consists of 2
cotton cloth pieces. The Mundu is worn around the hips and beneath the navel.
The cloth is creamy or white in colour and possesses a coloured border strip
called Kara. Traditionally, the Neriyatham is the name of the upper garment,
which is put over the blouse having one of its ends tucked in the Mundu and the
other long end worn over the front torso. The Mundum Neryathum for festive
occasion has golden coloured borders or a broad zari border known as Kasavu,
lending the costume another name – the Kasavu Saree.
Andhra Pradesh
Gadwal saree
The state of Andhra Pradesh is famous for its silk and cotton textiles.
However, the traditional dress of South Indian state of Andhra
Pradesh still is the ethnic handloom sarees that are made at different
places in the state and are mostly famous by the names of these
places. The towns of Dharmavaram, Kanchi, Chirala, Mangalagiri and
Venkatagiri have a worldwide reputation for their production of
handlooms. The Gadwal Sarees are manufactured in Gadwal region
of Andhra Pradesh. Then there are the Ikkat Sarees which were first
woven in the Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh. However, now
they are famous by the name of Pochampally Sarees due to their vast
scale production in the Pochampally region of Andhra Pradesh.
Karnataka
Konrad and irkal saree
The state of Karnataka, particularly Bengaluru and Mysore is known to be the silk
hub of India. For women, the traditional dresses of South Indian State of
Karnataka are the Karnataka silk sarees like the Mysore silk Sarees, which is made
with lustrous zari and rich silk. The extraordinary sheen of the fabric and the
purity of the zari make these elegant. Then there are the Konrad sarees, which
are a mix of cotton and silk. The motifs at border are varied and the body of the
saree has checked or striped patterns which are mostly used as daily casual wear
sarees. The handloom Irkal Sarees has the beautiful Kasuti embroidery on them.
The motifs on Irkal sarees include architectural designs, cradle, elephant and
squirrel among others. The Mysore Crepe Silk Sarees are used as office wear due
to their light-weight and easy to care nature.
Tamil Nadu
Pavada Davani
The Kanchipuram also known as the Kanjeevaram sarees are the
most famous traditional dress of South Indian state of Tamil
Nadu. While, the basic and the most traditional women’s dress of
Tamil Nadu is the Pavada Davani, which is a 3 piece clothing
which includes a long lower garment resembling a petticoat or a
long skirt; a choli blouse and a long dupatta like strip of cloth. It is
usually worn by the village girls in Tamil Nadu. And the men are
usually seen dressed in lungi along with a shirt and angavastra
EAST INDIAN
West Bengal
Baluchari, Jamdani
Costumes of West Bengal show the cosmopolitan culture of the state.
Saree is the traditional dress of women in West Bengal. In West Bengal,
sarees are primarily woven in cotton and silk. The traditional weavers of
West Bengal are reputed all over because of the quality of fabric spun and
their fine thread work. Different varieties of sarees are woven in the
various districts of West Bengal. Bengal silk is famous for its sophisticated
quality and texture. The only difference is in the way of wearing it. The
Bengali style of wearing a saree has no pleats and is elegantly draped
around the body and the pallu has a bunch of keys that falls over the
shoulder. Baluchari, Jamdani are famous traditional sarees of West Bengal.
Traditional dress for men in West Bengal is the Punjabi and the Dhoti.
Odisha
Bomkai, Sambalpuri
Women in Odisha wear the Oriya Saree, which is often draped
with a 5 yard cotton ikat cloth. Traditionally, the women of
Odisha dress in sarees of blue, red and magenta and other
deep colours, with ikat patterning. Odisha is recognized for its
handlooms, especially the Odisha sarees. In Odisha, there are
many different motifs and designs woven in cotton and silk to
create the distinctive sarees of Odisha like Bomkai, Sambalpuri
which are also famous in the international markets.
Bihar
The state of Bihar has inculcated traditional old values to
the core. It is known for its hand woven textiles in the
field of costume. The village crowd of Bihar adheres to
the traditional pattern of dresses and jewellery. The
costume of the women folk of Bihar is chosen carefully
in keeping with tradition. Saree remains the traditional
dress of women in Bihar.
Jharkhand
Bhagwan cloth
The most common dress of the men of Jharkhand is a
single piece of cloth known as ‘Bhagwan’. However the
non tribal people of the state generally opt for Kurta and
pyjamas. The non-tribal women just like the men opt for
modern costumes and most commonly wear a saree and a
blouse.
WEST INDIAN
Gujarat
Ghagra choli
The colourful Ghagra-choli is the traditional dress of
Indian women in Gujarat. Ghagras or lehengas are
gathered ankle-length skirts secured around the waist.
The choli is brightly embroidered, waist-length bare-
backed blouses. The attire is completed by an Odhni or
dupatta draped across the neck or over the head. Saree
is also another traditional dress of Gujarat but here the
pallu is draped in front rather than over the shoulders.
Maharashtra
Paithani saree
Costumes of Maharashtra comprise a Saree as traditional
attire for women and a Dhoti and a Shirt for men. Saree is
the traditional garment but worn in a distinctive
Maharashtrian style. In Maharashtra, the saree is 9 metre
long and is worn tucked between the legs. This saree does
not require a petticoat or a slip. The famous Paithani saree
is worn by Maharashtrian women during festivals and
religious functions.
Goa
Goans
Goans are very much fashion aware. Clothes form an
important part of the Goan lifestyle making it essential
to dress well at the innumerable social occasions that
occur around the year. Western dresses like skirts and
tops, trousers and shirts, wrap-arounds are preferred by
women in Goa. Goan Christian women still wear sarees
rather than dresses. There is a visible presence of
western, particularly Portuguese influence is evident in
the style of houses, churches, dress and cuisine in Goa.