DRAPING
Draping is the process of transforming a clothing design
into a three-dimensional form. by pinning and placing
fabric against the form to create a garment. Fashion
draping and fitting are usually done with muslin (an
inexpensive, unbleached, loosely woven cotton) to
resolve any design and fitting issues of a garment before
cutting the pattern in real fabric. Designers love the art
of draping because their designs come to life as they
manipulate the fabric on the dress form. Draping enables
the designer to make better choices when considering the
suitability of a particular fabric to its design.
STEPS OF DRAPING
Prepping: The first step is to have accurate measurements of the
garment. Next, ensure to mark the centre line of the dress by using a tape.
This helps to keep the draping even across the dress.
Sketch: Preparing a sketch of your garment always helps in designing.
But, in this form it gives you a clear idea about how you need to go about the
drape.
Muslin: This fabric is flexible in its thickness and volume. Thus, giving you
a chance to experiment and play around as you desire.
Pinning: Pinning is a process in which you pull the folds of the fabric
together to create the draping design.
Basting the Fabric: Once you are finished with draping and pinning, the next
step is to baste the fabric. Here, you can either sew the fabric to the
foundation piece or you can sew the fabric itself to complete the draping
process.
Trimming: The last step is common across designing techniques. Trim off
any excess fabrics that may remain after you are finished with draping.
PRINCIPLES OF DRAPING
Always use grain lines.
Straight grain should always run perpendicular to the floor and cross
grain parallel to the floor.
The body lines such as bust line, waistline, hipline etc should be
parallel to the floor
Use good quality pins that do not loose shape easily.
Establish seam lines on the form
Tear the muslin piece instead of cutting
Check the balance of the warp and weft
Mark grain line on muslin; mark cross grain at the fullest part of the
dress form.
Place the muslin on the form as per the marked lines, place it in
position with pins.
PRINCIPLES OF DRAPING
Pin the fabric to the form at the seams.
Never pull the fabric and distort the grain.
Darts, pleats, tucks etc need to be pinned.
Drape all pieces of the garment.
Mark all lines clearly.
Mark curved seams with small dots at frequent
intervals.
Mark darts, pleats and tucks where they cross seam
lines with a X mark.
Mannequin marking terms/lines:
Shoulder line
Neck band
Armhole
Princess line
Apex/Bust point
Bust line
Centre front
Side seam
Waistline
Centre back
Hip line
1. CENTRE FRONT
The middle of the front
of the body in a garment
and pattern pieces.
2. Princess line
A princess line is
cut in long panels,
without a
horizontal joining
seam or any
separation at the
waist. Instead, it
uses darts and long
seams to shape the
body.
3. SIDE SEAM
A side seam runs
vertically down
the side of a
garment. A side-
back seam runs
from the arms to
the waist, and fits
the garment to the
curve below the
shoulder blades.
4. Centre back
The middle of the
back of the body in
a garment and
pattern pieces.
5. Waist line
waist + line. waistline
the narrowest part of a
garment, usually at the
waist, but may be
above or below
depending on the
dictates of fashion or
the whim of the
designer.
6. Bust line
The horizontal
line runs through
front and back of
the pattern at the
bust level.
7. Shoulder slope
The angle of your
shoulder from the
base of the neck to
the shoulder point.
8. Armhole
In sewing, the armscye is
the armhole, the fabric
edge to which the sleeve
is sewn. The armhole
opening of the bodice
where the sleeves joined.
The length of the armscye
is the total length of this
edge; the width is the
distance across the hole at
the widest point.
9. Hip line
The line formed by
the lower edge of
hip-length
garment. an
arbitrary line
encircling the
fullest part of the
hips.
10. Neckline
The neckline is the
top edge of a
garment that
surrounds the neck,
especially from the
front view.
11. Under bust line
An under-bust is
the measure below
the breasts.
