The best DIY series from the brand you trust

Essential
HOME SKILLS
Handbook
Everything You Need
to Know as a
New Homeowner

CHRIS PETERSON
 ISBN: 978-0-7603-7325-5
© 2022 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. Digital edition published in 2022
eISBN: 978-0-7603-7326-2
First published in 2022 by Cool Springs Press,
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100 Cummings Center, Suite 265-D, available
Beverly, MA 01915, USA.
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26 25 24 23 22 12345

NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book.
The publisher and BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury
to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances,
additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions
included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this
book vary widely as to skill levels required: Some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and
some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as
they apply to your project.
Contents

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

The Homeowner’s Basic Toolkit . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Locating Essential Services and Fixtures . . . . . 8

1. Home Heating and Cooling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2. Structural Openings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

3. Plumbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

4. Electrical Issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

5. Interior Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122

6. Exterior Concerns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147

Yearly Maintenance Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168

Conversion Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170

Resources and Photo Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172
 Introduction
This is not just a book. It is an investment that offers handsome returns for any new or
inexperienced homeowner. Armed with this reference, any aspiring DIYer can keep his
or her house in great shape. This information can reasonably save homeowners hundreds
of dollars on repairs they won’t need to make, professional charges they avoid, and the
increased longevity of expensive fixtures like furnaces and hot water heaters.

Money is just one reward. There is also the immea- Before all that, you need to understand the basic
surable satisfaction and pride of being master of structure of a house. All modern residential struc-
your own castle. Doing what needs to be done rather tures share certain features and standardized com-
than paying a handyman means never worrying ponents. Learn to work with drywall in one house
about being overcharged or falling victim to sub- and you’re equipped to tackle it anywhere. Here’s a
standard work. That control and peace of mind are structural overview and where to find critical fixtures
satisfying bonuses. and features.
A trusted resource close at hand is key for inex-
perienced homeowners who are often overwhelmed
by the demands of a new house (or at least new to
Anatomy of a House
you). Fortunately, you are not alone. The Essential Residential construction starts with the founda-
Home Skills Handbook provides time-tested advice, tion. There are several different types; the best one
professional insight, money-saving tips, and guid- depends on site geography, local climate, and house
ance you can truly trust. Nobody is born with the structure.
skills and knowledge needed to maintain and repair • Post-and-pier. The most basic and least common.
a house. But that knowledge is easy to acquire and Also called “post and beam” or “pile,” it consists of
useful for a lifetime. concrete piers or screw-type metal piers on which
Skills aren’t much good without tools, and the support beams and the house rest. These are used
beginning craftsperson is only as good as his or her in smaller homes or on unstable soil, such as coast-
gear. That’s why the following pages include a list al areas.
of basic tools you’ll need before you jump into any
project. You probably already own most of these,
but it’s good to make sure you have what you need
before tackling any task—especially when master-
ing important new skills. Projects along the way will
sometimes require special tools, but we’ve kept that
to a minimum.
The skills you’ll develop in using this book are
a foundation to build on. Where turning to a pro
makes more sense, you’ll find “White Flag” features
spelling out how to hire the best professional. “Pro
Tips” offer insider advice and shortcuts to make any
job easier and quicker. “Money Wise” boxes help you
save money.
Screw piers are more tolerant of ground movement and
stress than poured concrete is .

4 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

• Crawl space. An option built of short, poured
concrete or cinder block walls resting on poured
Safe at Home
concrete footings. Crawl spaces combine stability
Any house contains dangers that can lead to
with less expense than a full basement. Services
injuries. The good news? Those perils are avoid-
can be run under the house.
able; safety is part of learning new skills. Here
• Slab. A basic poured-concrete platform. Inexpen- are general DIY safety guidelines to follow.
sive and easy to lay, slabs limit where services such
• Assume every electrical circuit and fixture is
as plumbing can be run. Ground movement can
live. Test for current before doing any electri-
have serious repercussions for a slab foundation.
cal work, even if you’ve turned the power off
at the breaker box.
• Use the correct tool and keep tools in good
working order. Frustration and impatience
can lead DIYers to use whatever’s at hand.
Tools will last longer if you use them only for
their intended purposes and clean them after
each use.
• Know what you’re dealing with before you
begin. Not sure whether that bottom layer
of paint contains lead or the popcorn ceiling
harbors asbestos? Test it or have it tested.
• Never remove safety guards. This is basic
A slab can support even a large house, but services must be common sense, but it’s something even
contained elsewhere . Plumbing lines may be placed inside
experienced DIYers do—and often regret.
the slab, but that makes future repairs extremely difficult .
• Dress for success. Proper safety gear is not
• Full basement. Built fully or partially belowground, optional. That includes long pants and long-
basements are the most expensive, longest-lasting, sleeve shirts when dealing with potential skin
and most useful foundations. Poured-concrete irritants like fiberglass insulation.
walls sit on footings, with a poured-concrete floor. • Know your limits. Attempting to do some-
This leaves room for fixtures and services, as well thing for which you are unqualified is a recipe
as storage and potentially even a finished living for disaster. Call in a pro when you’re over-
space. whelmed. Never attempt a DIY project when
Houses are framed from the foundation up. Some you’re tired or rushed for time.
are built of modular, pre-fab sections; but most are
constructed with uniform wood structural members
such as studs and beams in a process known as
“stick framing.” Houses are designed to efficiently
distribute loads (the weight of structure, occupants,
possessions, fixtures, and appliances). The framing
serves as the bones, while the “skin” is comprised of
weather wrap, siding materials, and the roof struc-
ture. These—along with windows and doors—create
the “energy envelope.” The projects here include
common repairs and projects to all those areas.
Tackling any of them requires the correct tools.

Introduction 5
 The Homeowner’s
Basic Toolkit
Most home repairs don’t call for exotic tools; the most common tools are versatile.
Become proficient in using these and you can take on more difficult projects requiring
specialized tools. Some projects in this book require the occasional inexpensive and
widely available special tool.

Hand Tools
• Screwdriver set . You should have a range of sizes
of standard, Phillips head, and Torx (the emerging
standard for replacement screws) screwdrivers.
All-in-one (a handle with barrel slots containing
Stud finder

swap-out heads) “multibit” tools are inexpensive

alternatives.
• Hammer . A basic claw hammer is essential. Find
one that feels good in your hand and is easy to
swing given your size and strength (16 ounce is
the most common). A rubber grip ensures against
Level

slips.
• Adjustable wrenches . Useful toolbox additions
thanks to adjustability. Buy at least a small and
large size but, ideally, a set of three sizes.
• Tape measure . Choose one with a durable case
Hammer

and a steel, 25' tape. Lock-out action should be

smooth. A laser measuring tool is more precise but
pricier and difficult to master, and it won’t work in
Tape measure
certain circumstances.
• Levels . The right level is handy for many different
tasks. Purchase a 4' level and a smaller torpedo
level.
• Stud finder . Pay more for one that is accurate and
Screwdriver set easy to use. The best not only clearly show stud
location; they also indicate wiring and plumbing
line locations.

6 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

• Utility knife . Buy a high-quality utility knife with a
fully retractable blade that locks closed, a secure
and comfortable handle, and durable outer case.
• Circuit tester . Sold as a “neon circuit tester” or
“voltage tester,” this has two probes—negative and
positive. They are held to each side of a circuit; if
the bulb lights, voltage is present. This is an essen-
Circular saw
tial safety tool for even basic electrical repairs.
• Pliers . Purchase a set rather than individual pliers.
You should own lineman’s, needle-nose, side cut-
ting, and slip-joint pliers. Also buy locking pliers.
As the name implies, the adjustable jaws can be
locked onto just about any surface.
• Multipurpose electrician’s tool . This looks like a
• Random orbital sander . A 6" random orbital
pair of flat pliers with different size holes in the
sander is a middle ground between belt sanders
jaws. It makes stripping and cutting wires easy.
and smaller “palm” sanders. It can quickly smooth
• Folding worktable or saw horses . A stable, a surface while being easy to control. Choose a
sturdy portable platform is a must-have. Buy cordless model.
lightweight versions that are easy to break down
• Reciprocating saw . An all-purpose beast, this can
and transport.
cut through most materials effortlessly. Because
the blade projects straight out from the handle, it
Power Tools reaches places other saw blades can’t.

Honorable Mentions

Power Drill Tool belt

• Power drill . Pick the most common size for home

use—3⁄8". Buy a cordless drill with a backup battery. • Rotary tool . These tiny but mighty workhorses
The best include a carrying case and a drill bit set. are sold with a diverse selection of attachments
Check that the drill is comfortable and doesn’t tire and tips. A fully equipped rotary tool is amazingly
your arm. versatile.

• Circular saw . A “sidewinder” model (motor to the • Tool belt and/or tool bucket . These make it easier
side of the blade) is best for inexperienced DIYers; to transport the tools you’ll need to wherever you’ll
“worm-drive” models (motor behind the blade) are be using them.
cumbersome for beginners. • Shop vacuum . A wet/dry vac makes even the
messiest project easy and quick to clean up.

The Homeowner’s Basic Toolkit 7

 Locating Essential
Services and Fixtures
Thanks to modern standardized building practices and code requirements, most houses
have similar basic service features. Knowing where water and electricity enter your
house, where crucial fixtures live, and how to shut everything off is critical in reacting
to home breakdowns.

• Electrical service . Electricity enters through a • Water supply and the DWV system . Water enters
buried main line or an overhead “drop line” running most houses from a municipal water main. Some
from a power pole into a metal service mast stick- homes are supplied by wells that must be tested
ing out of your roof. In either case, power is routed and maintained. Know where your water meter or
through the meter on an exterior wall, then into well head are located. Water flows in through a
the main breaker (or fuse) box inside. The meter’s main shutoff valve; locate it so that you can turn
dial or readout moves or changes when power it off if there’s a leak. Smaller shutoff valves are
is flowing. The breaker box holds the main that located on branch feeder lines. Main water valves
controls power to the whole house and individual are usually in a basement or crawl space. Some
breakers servicing specific areas or rooms. Know are underground outside; those are shut off with a
where the box is to turn off power for repairs. special tool. The drain-waste-vent (DWV) system
removes water—and wastes—by creating air

Electrical service mast . Power meter . A main breaker box . The empty spaces
under the breakers are potential new
circuits .

8 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

• pressure that forces everything out the main
waste “stack” to a sewer line or septic system .
Municipal sewer systems rarely break down; septic
systems are more trouble-prone and require main-
tenance. Locate the main vertical waste line and
cleanout opening. Snaking the cleanout is some-
times the only way to clear a major clog. Know
where a septic tank, distribution box, and leach
field lie. The tank is accessed for maintenance, and
you should never drive over or dig up a leach field.

• Fire extinguisher . Ensure there is a fire extinguish-

er on every level of the house. Everyone in the
household should know where extinguishers are
and how to use them. Different types are distin-
guished by letters designating the type of fire the
extinguisher addresses: A, B, C, D, and K. D and K
extinguishers are not used in the home. A, B, and C
are noted with a green triangle, red square, or blue
circle, respectively. A treats cloth and paper fires, B
extinguishes flammable liquid and grease fires, and
A water main shutoff valve and water meter .
C puts out electrical fires. A multipurpose “A, B, C”
extinguisher covers all bases.

• HVAC . The HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air-

conditioning) system keeps a house comfortable
year-round and protects indoor air quality. Know
the location of your furnace, heat pump, or cen-
tral air-conditioning condenser. Also check where
ductwork is accessible.
• Water heater . A water heater serves every faucet,
showerhead, and bathtub spout. These hardwork-
ing appliances have a limited life span. Any more
than twelve years old is well worth replacing; you
may be better served by upgrading to newer tech-
nology like a tankless heater.

Locating Essential Services and Fixtures 9

 1. Home Heating and
Cooling
HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning. Although those are
discreet functions, they are interrelated. A house’s HVAC system has a huge impact
on money and comfort, as does the home’s energy “envelope.” The house’s skin
determines how readily air flows in and out and how outside temperatures impact
inside temps. Easy projects, such as installing weather stripping, can significantly
lower utility costs and make a house feel less drafty.

A furnace or boiler is the soul of a heating system

HVAC Types
(the furnace also plays a role in central air-
conditioning). Those are expensive mechanicals; All HVAC systems are either single-stage or zoned.
maintain them meticulously and make repairs at Single-stage systems heat (or cool) the whole house.
the first sign of trouble. Regular maintenance Zoned systems offer more control and economy be-
extends furnace or central air-conditioning con- cause heating and cooling can be limited to specific
denser life. Maintenance doesn’t require expertise— areas. The systems below are the most common.
just knowledge and a willingness to apply it. • Forced-air: The most common system, a furnace
HVAC systems impact indoor air quality. The U.S. draws outside air in through a blower, heats it, and
Environmental Protection Agency reports that in- pushes it into ductwork feeding vents throughout
door air is, on average, two to five times more pollut- the house. The air passes through a filter before
ed than outside air. Proper ventilation, and regularly distribution. Blowers also distribute cooled air from
replacing heating and cooling filters, keeps a house a central air condenser unit.
healthier.
• Steam/hot water: Water is heated in a boiler, then
steam or hot water is distributed to radiators in
How HVAC Works each room. Controlling temperature in a given
room is harder than with a forced-air system, and
HVAC systems draw clean outside air inside and leaks pose a serious problem.
exhaust indoor air polluted with cooking odors, dust,
• Electric and radiant: Electric heating is generally
airborne microbes, and more. Your HVAC system
limited to temperate regions because it is relative-
heats or cools air before distributing it. Air move-
ly expensive. Electricity heats coils in baseboard
ment can also be passive, flowing in through win-
units, which can be shut off to save money. Radi-
dows, doors, cracks, and holes.
ant systems use coils under flooring for room-by-
room solutions.

10 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Air-Conditioning • Localized: Window or wall-sleeve units serve a
Some air-conditioning overlaps with heating sys- single room well. These are awkward to set up, and
tems. Local cooling solutions are independent. Other capacity has to be correctly matched to the space
technologies, such as swamp coolers, are rare. to avoid excess energy costs. But they are quick
and easy solutions.
• Central air-conditioning: An exterior condenser
unit pulls warm air over coils containing refrigerant The Special Case of Heat Pumps
that draws heat from the air rather than actually Unlike furnaces, heat pumps don’t generate heat.
cooling it (a difference without a distinction for They pull heat from air either inside or outside the
homeowners). The cooled air is drawn into the house—depending on whether the pump is cooling
furnace blower. It passes over an evaporator that or heating—moving it to the opposite side of the
eliminates and drains off moisture. The blower dis- system. For heating, refrigerant-filled exterior pump
tributes the cooled, dry air throughout the house. coils draw heat even from cold air, transferring that
heat inside through the interior coil unit. The process
is reversed for cooling. Heat pumps can be air-based
or geothermal—pulling heat from underground.

Home Ventilation
Stale air must be constantly exhausted and replaced
by clean outside air to maintain healthy indoor air
quality. This happens through soffit and gable vents,
windows, and doors. Air is also exhausted locally,
such as with a bathroom fan. An attic or roof whole-
house fan creates wind chill that cools the interior
while pulling air through the house. Unintended air
leakage happens through gaps around wall openings
for pipes and conduit. These openings can represent
significant loss, and plugging them saves money.

• Ductless: Also called “mini-split” systems, these

are a relatively recent innovation. A wall unit
piped to a smaller-than-normal outside condenser
services each room. Air is cooled, drawn in, and
blown out of the unit, which can also heat air. This
is a zone solution, so you only pay to heat or cool
rooms you’re using.

Home Heating and Cooling 11

 Install V-Strip Door Weather Stripping
TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Weather stripping lowers energy bills and increases home comfort.

There are several types, but all physically block gaps along window and
door edges while allowing the structures to open and close as intended.
• Adhesive-backed: The simplest, cheapest, and least effective. This
is foam or tubular vinyl with adhesive on one side. The weather
stripping is cut and stuck on the bottom and jambs of windows and
doors. It compresses over time and with use, rarely lasting more than
two years.
• Nail-on/screw-on: Durable and effective, this is nailed or screwed
onto windows and doors. Hard metal weather stripping can only be
used for uniform, rather than irregular, gaps. Vinyl or rubber versions
are better for irregular gaps. This type wears out over time and is
harder to replace than self-adhesive versions.
• V-strip: This is used on doors with an existing channel (“kerf”) be-
tween door stop and jamb. Made of rubber, vinyl, or similar material,
V-strip has a mounting tab attached to a bumper. Sold in standard
lengths, it is cut to fit and pressed into place. When the door is
closed, the bumper compresses and blocks airflow. Easy to install,
inexpensive, and effective, V-strip is ideal if the door construction has
the necessary kerf.
• Rope caulk: Used in older homes in colder regions, rope caulk is a
quick and easy—if unattractive—way to seal gaps around windows
that won’t be opened over winter. The caulk blocks airflow and is
easily peeled off in spring.
• Door sweeps: Exterior door-bottom gaps are a main source of un
pleasant drafts. Most weather stripping would cause the door to
stick, but door “sweeps” eliminate this problem. The simplest are
metal or rubber strips fastened to the interior bottom door edge,
with bristles or a rubber curtain hanging down. “Cap” sweeps have
a U profile and bristles on the bottom. The cap is glued or screwed
onto the door bottom.

12 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Grab the existing kerf door seal with lineman’s pliers and remove it.
Clean the frame all around. Repair rotted wood or other defects.
• 120" × 1" vinyl-clad foam
kerf door seal 2. Measure and cut weather stripping sections to fit. Trim one end of
• Lineman’s pliers each long side piece (both ends of the top piece) to a 45° angle, for the
• All-purpose cleaner and corners. Optional: Alternatively, install the piece as purchased (usually
rag sold in 81" lengths) and trim the opposite end.
• Tape measure
3. Starting from the bottom of one side jamb, press one end of the
• Heavy-duty scissors or
tongue into the jamb gap. Continue pressing the weather stripping in
utility knife
place all the way up. Repeat with the top piece, then the opposite side.
Check that the door closes securely.

1 3

Install Peel-and-Stick Weather Stripping

TIME: 10 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Pick a product wide enough for the window bottom and thick enough to completely seal your gaps.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Inspect the sash and jamb for defects. Repair any before continuing.
Clean the window edge and jamb where the weather stripping will stick
• All-purpose cleaner
when the window is closed. Use a putty knife to remove any buildup.
• Rag
• Putty knife 2. Measure the window bottom. Cut the weather stripping to length
• Tape measure using scissors.
• Self-adhesive weather 3. Remove the protective tape and press the weather stripping onto
stripping the edge, pushing hard for 15 seconds to ensure a tight bond. Check
• Scissors that the window closes securely.

Home Heating and Cooling 13

 Apply Window Film
TIME: 40 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Window film is a micro-thin layer of either polyester or vinyl. Some versions are translucent, while others
are opaque; all are sold in rolls 36" or 48" wide. The one used here is energy-conserving temperature-control
film. Others offer different benefits, such as privacy. Regardless, patience is the most important tool in
applying window film. Be careful and keep an eye on details (especially cleaning the window and frame
thoroughly). Done correctly, it is almost impossible to tell the film is in place.

Temperature-control film Privacy film Decorative film

• Temperature-control film: Formulated to stop heat and cold from

What You’ll Need transferring through glass, this type is available clear or tinted.
Tinted films block harmful UV rays and can prevent furniture uphol-
stery from fading. Some are meant for summer, while “four-season”
• Window cleaner
products keep the interior warm or cool, depending on the season.
• Lint-free clean cloths
• Privacy film: This film has a reflective side that is installed facing out,
• Tape measure (optional)
blocking the view into the home. Used on windows or doors, some
• Scissors
block UV rays. These can, however, make it difficult to see out at
• Spray bottle
certain times.
• Baby shampoo
• Window scraper • Decorative film: Decorative film creates the appearance of frosted,
• Sponge textured, or stained glass. The pricier the product, the more convinc-
• Window squeegee ing the illusion. These are ideal for bathrooms or other private areas.
Some also block UV rays.
• Painter’s tape
• Smoothie squeegee (or • Security film: Security film makes it harder to shatter a window and
similar) keeps broken glass from scattering. The thick film can stop thieves
• Five-way tool (or similar from gaining access through a broken window or glass door.
straightedge)
Some films can be removed and reused, although that’s laborious.
• Utility knife with new Most homeowners consider the film permanent once installed. Warran-
blade
ty coverage and length are signs of quality. Budget films are subject to
scratches, bubbling, and fading. Window films sold through home cen-
ters can be purchased with all-in-one application kits. The steps remain
the same, but read and follow the manufacturer’s directions.

14 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 How You Do It
1. Only install film out of direct sunlight. Clean the window thorough-
ly. Measure and cut the film 1" larger than the window all around. The
cutting surface must be absolutely clean to ensure against tears or
dirt. Pro Tip: Rather than cut on a table, wet the glass and unroll the
film over it (it will stick). Use scissors to cut the film about 1" larger all
around. Stick the cut panel onto a nearby window to keep it safe and
ready for installation.
1
2. Fill a spray bottle with cool water and a teaspoon of baby shampoo.
Spray the window. Scrape it with a window scraper, in horizontal rows,
top to bottom. This removes small, stuck bits, or old paint drops.

3. Spray the window and use a sponge to scrub the glass. Wipe with
a squeegee, clearing the blade with a clean, lint-free cloth after each
pass. Wipe down the frame’s inside edges.

4. Determine the film’s liner side (usually the slicker side or paper lay-
er—check the instructions). Stick a tab of painter’s tape on each side
and carefully pull liner and film apart.
2
5. Spray the cut panel and the window center with the shampoo mix.
Center the panel on the window. Smooth from the center out with a
smoothie squeegee—or whatever tool the manufacturer recommends.
Stop 1" short of edges to avoid pushing the film into the joint.

6. Use a five-way tool or similar straightedge to press the film into the
top corner of the window. Carefully slice the film along the inside of the
straightedge using a utility knife fit with a new blade.

7. Carefully move the straightedge down the frame, keeping the utility
knife blade alongside the straightedge and slicing as you go. Repeat
4 the process at the top, other side, and bottom.

8. Wet the panel and use the smoothie squeegee to squeeze remaining
water out from under the film. Work from the center out to the edges.
Absorb water with a clean, lint-free cloth.

Pro Tip
5
Some manufacturers and instructions call for cutting film along the
frame’s inner edges. Instead, leave a 1⁄16" gap for water to be pressed
out during your final squeegee, preventing water from wicking
back under the film. The gap also allows film to expand and con-
tract without wrinkling.

Home Heating and Cooling 15

 Insulate an Attic
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Hot air rises, making the attic and roof avenues

Insulation Types
for heat escape. Insulation keeps that heat inside a
home’s living areas, and a properly insulated attic • Fiberglass: The most common home insulation
lowers energy bills. Insulating an attic must be done material, available loose and as batts. Spun glass
correctly to be effective. That starts with the correct fibers create air pockets that slow heat transfer.
materials.
Insulation is rated by the “R-value”—how resistant
the material is to heat flow. R-values are standard-
ized to 1 square inch of material. So, for example,
an R-value of 3.2 translates to an overall R-value of
19.2 if 6" of material is used. For an unfinished attic,
the Department of Energy recommends R-30 in
southern regions such as Georgia; R-38 in moderate
regions such as Kansas; and R-49 in cold northern
regions such as Vermont.
Beyond R-value, there are two insulating methods:
Faced fiberglass batts must Cellulose
blown-in “loose” fill (fiberglass, cellulose, or mineral always be installed with the
wool) or “batts” (fiberglass or mineral wool), which facing correctly oriented to
are cut and layered. Blown-in attic insulation requires avoid moisture problems .
getting a blower up to an inconvenient space. Con-
sequently, this project describes installing batts, the
• Cellulose: Only available as loose fill, cellulose is
more common DIY option. Batts come in rolls and
made from recycled newspapers and wood waste.
precut sections. Precut batts are more expensive but
Considered environmentally friendly, the “green”
easier and more convenient for standard sized, open
credibility is undercut for insulation treated with
joist spaces. Rolls are better for odd shapes and
fire retardant (required prior to attic use).
sizes of openings.
• Mineral wool: Made from recycled slag and melt-
ed stone spun into fibers, mineral wool is gaining
in popularity. It’s available loose or as batts and
installed in the same way fiberglass is.

Safe at Home
Houses constructed before 1990 may have
blown-in attic insulation containing vermiculite
(apparent as shiny flecks). This may contain
dangerous asbestos. Have the insulation tested
and don’t disturb it. You can leave vermiculite
insulation if it will never be disturbed. However,
if you’re upgrading insulation or want to in-
crease resale value, have the insulation removed
Unfaced batting between attic joists must leave room for
by a licensed contractor certified in asbestos
proper attic ventilation .
abatement, handling, and disposal.

16 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 3 4 Optional

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure the rafter space to determine amount of material you’ll need
(including any top layer to create the desired R-value). Purchase the
• Tape measure
insulation, adding 10 percent for waste. Buy faced (paper on one side)
• Fiberglass insulation
insulation only for the bottom layer of currently uninsulated joist spaces.
rolls or precut batts
Wear a long-sleeve shirt, long pants, and durable closed-toe shoes or
• Safety glasses
boots. Put on a dust mask, safety glasses, and puncture-resistant gloves.
• Dust mask
• Heavy-duty work gloves 2. Seal around electrical boxes in joist cavities, using fire-resistant caulk.
• Fire-resistant caulk Use expanding foam in gaps wider than 1⁄4". Check labels on recessed
• Caulk gun lighting fixtures; any labeled “IC”—insulation contact—can be covered
• Fire-resistant expanding with batts. Otherwise, box out fixtures with cardboard or wood to
spray foam maintain at least a 3" space all around the fixture. The same is true of
• Utility knife with new metal vent flues.
blade
• Waste 2×4 3. Measure joist cavity length and width (leaving a gap at the soffit for
• Long metal straightedge airflow). Cut batting to size with a utility knife, kneeling on a waste 2×4
• Prefab rafter baffles and using it as a straightedge for crosscuts (width), or using a long metal
(optional) straightedge for rip (length) cuts. Optional: To ensure insulation doesn’t
• Staple gun (optional) move and block soffit vents, staple or tape polystyrene foam (such as
• Foam board insulation Styrofoam) or plastic rafter baffles in rafter cavities, over soffits.
(optional) 4. Lay batts in place. Use faced batting only on the first, bottom layer,
• Construction adhesive with the paper facing down. Cut and lay unfaced batts on top to build
(optional)
up R-value, until the insulation is level with the top of joists. To increase
R-value, add a layer of batting perpendicular to the joists. Optional: In-
sulate the attic-hatch opening. There are several ways to do this. Cut
layers of foam board insulation to size, gluing each layer to the one
under and above it. This creates a block that rests on the opening’s
stops. For common pull-down stairs, use a utility knife to cut sides for
a topless box of board insulation. The inside dimensions should be just
larger than the pull-down ladder dimensions. Glue the sides together
with solvent-free construction adhesive.

Pro Tip
These steps describe insulating joist cavities. If you plan on finishing the attic, insulate rafter cavities.
Install baffles between rafters to maintain airflow. Cut batts precisely; they must be wide enough to hold
once pushed in place, until the drywall is installed. The final layer should be faced insulation, with the
paper facing the interior.

Home Heating and Cooling 17

 Seal Energy Envelope Air Leaks
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

HVAC ventilation is all about controlling when and where air flows. Leaks waste money, make the home less
comfortable, and make the HVAC system less efficient. They are also access for pests. Check any service that
enters through a wall, including pipes, conduit, or wiring. Sealing a leak depends on the opening’s size.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Remove exterior-wall electrical outlet cover plates. Slip an insulating
gasket over each receptacle. Screw down the cover plate tight enough
• Screwdriver
to compress the gasket. Repeat with exterior-wall light switches.
• Outlet and light switch
gaskets 2. Caulk gaps less than 1⁄4" wide around exterior wall electrical box-
• Caulk gun es with acrylic latex sealant caulk. Unscrew the faceplate. Cut off the
• Exterior and interior cartridge tip with a utility knife. Secure the cartridge in a caulk gun and
paintable caulk sealant apply a steady, even bead between box and drywall. Smooth the bead
(or substitute an indoor/ with a moistened fingertip.
outdoor sealant caulk)
• Utility knife or putty 3. Remove bathroom vent fan covers and caulk gaps less than 1⁄4" be-
knife tween the fan unit and drywall. Caulk around electrical box openings
• Spray insulating foam and vertical vent stacks in an unfinished attic. Fill any gaps greater than
sealant 1
⁄4" with expanding foam sealant meant for interior use.

4. Caulk around exterior vent hoods, such as over the dryer vent, using
exterior-grade caulk. Fill gaps around exterior pipes or conduits, or
holes in exterior walls that can’t be accessed from the inside, with
exterior-grade expanding foam sealant.

1 4

18 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Insulate a Crawl Space
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Even in professional circles there is disagreement about how best to in-

sulate crawl space. Decades ago, standard practice was to insulate be-
tween joists, leaving airflow through sidewall vents. Current thinking is
that this promotes moisture conditions that can lead to mold, rot, and
termite infestation. The steps below describe insulating the sidewalls,
blocking vents, and laying a ground vapor barrier. This extends the en-
ergy envelope of the room above. (Some pros advocate also insulating
joist cavities.) In any case, consult a reputable local HVAC professional
for an up-to-date recommendation.

1 2 3

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Seal leaks and fix existing moisture problems. Remove debris and
any tattered insulation in joist cavities. Measure and cut the first board
• Dust mask
insulation panel.
• Heavy-duty work gloves
• Eye protection 2. Apply solvent-free construction adhesive to the insulation panel.
• Tape measure Hold it in place for about 30 seconds, or until the bond is secure. Cut
• 1 1⁄2" foam board and install the remaining panels. Cut smaller sections to fill any rim joist
insulation cavities. Check that each piece fits before cutting the next.
• Utility knife 3. Spread 6-mil plastic sheeting over the ground, running 4" to 6" up
• Construction adhesive
each wall. Cut it with scissors and tape it to the walls with acrylic tape.
(solvent-free)
Overlap sheets by 4", taping all seams. Optional: If you will regularly
• 6-mil plastic sheeting
access the crawl space, use stakes to secure sheets in place.
• Scissors
• Acrylic vapor barrier 4. Install prefab vent covers over any crawl space vents. As an alterna-
tape tive, fabricate plywood covers.
• Prefab vent covers or
custom plywood covers
(optional)

Home Heating and Cooling 19

 Caulk Window and Door Trim
TIME: 20–40 minutes (depending on number of doors and windows) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Window and door trim gaps visually disappear into siding, but they are HVAC weak spots. The gaps open
during expansion and contraction; even if they have been caulked, the caulk deteriorates over time. Recaulk-
ing ensures an airtight seal. It’s simple, but laying a tidy caulk bead requires practice. Spend more for a caulk
gun with a thumb release, which provides greater control (allowing you to stop flow as desired). Follow
these guidelines for laying the perfect bead:
• Cut less off the tip than you think necessary; you can always cut more,
but you can’t add back.
• Use one hand on the barrel and the other to control flow. The barrel
hand should be held near the nozzle.
What You’ll Need
• Move steadily. Rushing is the number one cause of unattractive caulk
beads.
• Drop cloth
• Caulk finishing kit with • Find the best wrist position and don’t change. For vertical seams, this
remover and finisher means bending at the knees as you move down.
tools (or substitute a
• Slide the tube nozzle along the smoothest surface to avoid bead im-
putty knife and your
perfections.
finger)
• Caulk gun with thumb • Tape off seam sides with painter’s tape if you are not confident in
release laying a uniform bead freehand.
• Caulk
• Utility knife
• Painter’s tape (optional) How You Do It
• Caulk finishing tool 1. Place a drop cloth under interior trim. Use a putty knife or caulk
(optional)
removal tool to remove any old caulk, flaking paint, or other debris
from the seams.
2. Cut off the tip of the tube with utility knife or the cutter in the gun
handle. Put the tube in the gun and begin laying the bead. (To protect
nearby surfaces from caulk, you may wish to trim the area with painter’s
tape.) If you’re having trouble maintaining a steady, even bead, stop in
Money Wise
the center and begin again from the opposite end into the center.
Check caulk tube labels. 3. Smooth the bead with a wet fingertip or a caulk finishing tool.
Caulk for bathrooms is Repeat the process with the remaining seams, inside and out.
specially formulated for wet
and humid environments.
For interior door trim, use
a paintable latex caulk. Use
an exterior-grade caulk
(labeled “doors, windows,
and siding”) on exterior trim.
Exterior window or door trim
set into masonry calls for
special masonry caulk.

2 3

20 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Install Battery-Operated Carbon
Monoxide and Smoke Detectors
TIME: 15 minutes (per detector) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Fire and carbon monoxide are dangers in any house. Fire spreads amazingly fast. Burning plastics and other
substances produce toxic gases. Carbon monoxide is even more deadly because it is odorless and color-
less. That’s why detectors for both are essential. You can buy combination detectors, but check local codes
before you do. Many require new detectors be hardwired and equipped with battery backups. Some circum-
stances and locations, however, require battery-powered detectors. For instance, locating one where there
isn’t an accessible circuit into which you can tap.
You’ll choose between ionization and photoelectric fire detectors. Ionization types see flames more quick-
ly; photoelectric is faster to detect smoke. Pay a bit more for detectors that include both, or use ionization
near features like fireplaces where fires might start, and photoelectric near bedrooms, where smoke will be
the first sign of danger. Install detectors inside each bedroom and in hallways within 10' of any bedroom.
Mount a detector in any common living area, on each level of the home, and in stairways.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need 1. Measure and mark detector location on ceiling; it must be at least
6" from any wall. Use the detector’s mounting bracket as a template
to mark mounting holes.
• Smoke and carbon
monoxide detectors 2. Drill pilot holes at the marks using the bit specified by the manu-
• Tape measure facturer. Drill a screw-type anchor into the holes. Some manufacturers
• Pencil provide “push-in” anchors (if you drilled into a joist, you only need a
• Power drill and bits screw). Drill a larger hole and push or tap the anchor in. Use the mount-
• Wood or polyurethane ing hardware that came with the detector.
mallet (optional)
3. Screw the mounting plate to
the ceiling using the supplied
screws. Put batteries in the
detector and attach it to the
mounting plate (usually twist
and lock). Test the detector.
Clean the unit regularly with
a clean, lint-free cloth. Change
the batteries twice a year.

Home Heating and Cooling 21

 Hardwire Carbon Monoxide and Smoke
Detectors
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Many homeowners choose to have a licensed electrician install detectors; a pro works faster (and many peo-
ple are leery of electricity). You can also contract a local licensed electrician to check your work and ensure
everything is safe and to code.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure and mark detector locations. Start with the unit closest to
the circuit you’ll be tapping into (labeled in the breaker box—see
• Smoke and carbon
page 8). Locate detectors at least 6" from any walls.
monoxide detectors
• Self-clamping PVC 2. Use a stud finder to locate and mark joist locations (you may need
ceiling electrical outlet to adjust detector location to install the electrical box between joists).
box (“old work” box) Optional: If you’re mounting the detector below an unfinished attic, drill
• Stud finder a hole with a flex bit auger (long, thin specialty bit). Check the attic
• Power drill and bits for where the auger came through to ensure there are no obstructions.
• Flex bit auger (optional) This also reveals where you’ll need to remove attic floorboards—a
• Tape measure necessity in some cases.
• Pencil
3. Use the electrical box to mark the ceiling cutout. Drill a large access
• Drywall saw
• Circuit tester
hole inside the circle and cut it out with a drywall saw.
• Fish tape 4. Turn the power off to the circuit at the breaker box. Test with a cir-
• Combination tool cuit tester to ensure it’s off and splice NM cable into the circuit. Use fish
• 14-gauge NM cable tape to pull the cable to the detector location and into the new electri-
• Wire connectors cal box through the punch-out. (If you’re wiring detectors in a series,
• Screwdriver route NM cable from the box to the next one.)

5. Clamp the box in place by screwing the wings open against the dry
wall. Screw the detector mounting base to the box.

6. Wire the detector (in and out, if in a series) with red to red or orange,
black to black, and white to white, using the appropriate size wire con-
nectors (see page 103). Wire the ground wire to the detector’s ground
if it has one or to the incoming and outgoing cable ground (cap with
a wire connector if not using). Twist the detector onto the base plate
and, once all detectors are installed, test each.

2 3 6

22 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Replace a Bathroom Fan
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Bathroom fan technology is increasingly more efficient and quieter. If your fan is more than fifteen years
old or is noisy and ineffective, it’s time to upgrade. Buy a fan according to the CFM (cubic foot per minute)
rating—how much air the fan moves through the space each minute—and the Sones, or loudness rating.
Measure the room and use the manufacturer’s guidelines to match the fan’s rated CFM to the cubic footage.
A Sones of 2 is average and considered “quiet.”

How You Do It
What You’ll Need 1. Check that the existing fan exhausts through an exterior wall or,
in the case of a top-floor bathroom, a gable or roof vent. If not, add
ductwork and a vent. That’s a big job best left to a licensed pro (but
• Exhaust fan
see the following project to learn how it’s done).
• Circuit tester
• Standard screwdriver 2. Turn off the power at the breaker box. Remove the fan cover and use
• Combination tool a circuit tester on the motor relay to check that power is off.
• Drywall saw (optional) 3. Remove the fan from its housing. The motor is usually screwed to the
• Oscillating saw housing; unscrew or disassemble any attachments.
(optional)
• 2×4 blocking (optional) 4. Disconnect the wires (directly wired motors are unscrewed from the
• Power drill and bits terminals; others unplug from the housing; the housing is disconnected
(optional) by removing the wire connectors).
• 2 1⁄2" deck screws
5. Unscrew the housing from the joists or use an oscillating saw to
(optional)
cut any attachments. Once unattached, manipulate the housing and
• Wire nuts
remove it.

6. Check that the new fan will fit through the existing hole. If not, adjust
the opening with a drywall saw. Consult the manufacturer’s instruc-
tions for mounting. Add blocking as needed to extend the joist face for
mounting the new fan. (Most fans come with screw-type expandable
joist brackets.)

7. Connect the wires to the fan and install the housing to the joists or
brackets. Install the fan unit in the housing if they are separate and
replace the cover. Turn the power on and test the fan.

2 3 5

Home Heating and Cooling 23

 Vent a Bathroom Exhaust Fan through
the Attic
TIME: 2 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Top-floor bathrooms in older homes are often exhausted directly into

the attic. This can cause mold and rot. It’s wise (and mandated by most
codes) to vent through the roof. If you’re not comfortable working on
a roof, call an HVAC pro. In any case, it helps to know how the fan is
supposed to be exhausted.

How You Do It
1. Remove insulation around the fan to access the exhaust port. If the
fan has an integral heater, install blocking to keep insulation away from
the unit. Mark the heater location in case you need to move it during
this process.

2. Mark the exhaust tailpiece exit location on the underside of the roof
sheathing. Drill a pilot hole for saw blade access and use an oscillating
saw to cut through the sheathing and roofing.

3. Remove enough shingles around the cutout to accommodate the

vent flange, leaving the tar paper intact.

4. Secure the exhaust tailpiece through the cutout by screwing down

What You’ll Need
the flange or use a hose clamp if the manufacturer’s instructions rec-
ommend it. Attach the exhaust duct over the tailpiece. Slide the duct’s
• 2×6 blocking (optional)
opposite end onto the fan’s exhaust outlet. Slip hose clamps or straps
• Power drill and bits
around each end of the duct and tighten the clamps. Wrap the duct
• Oscillating saw
with pipe insulation.
• Screwdriver
• (2) 4" hose clamps or 5. Coat the bottom of the vent hood with roofing cement and slide the
straps hood over the tailpiece’s outside end. Nail the hood flange to the roof.
• Pipe insulation Coat the flange with roofing cement and replace the shingles, cut to fit
• Roofing cement over the flange.
• Roofing nails
• Hammer

24 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

1

Home Heating and Cooling 25

 Clean and Maintain Central
Air-Conditioning
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Central air-conditioning is an expensive luxury, so it only makes sense to maintain the equipment. A little
effort heads off costly repairs and extends condenser and evaporator longevity.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Switch off the power at the breaker box and the unit’s main breaker.
Check the air lines to and from the condenser. Replace damaged
• Crescent wrench or
insulation.
screwdriver
• Shop vacuum 2. Clean off the condenser’s exterior. Unbolt or unscrew the fan cage
• Spray-on coil cleaner and lift the fan out. Use a shop vacuum to remove any debris from
• Soft-bristle brush inside. If you don’t have a shop vacuum, clean out by hand.
• Fin repair tool 3. Use a hose with a spray nozzle to spray debris out from between the
• Canned compressed air condenser fins, working from the inside. If stubborn gunk is stuck to the
fins, use a spray-on coil cleaner and a soft brush to scrub it off.

4. Use a fin comb to carefully straighten bent fins. This tool is inexpen-
sive; choose one with multiple heads for different size fins.

5. Unfasten the access panel right before the furnace blower inside the
house. Use canned compressed air to blow debris off the air condition-
er evaporator coils. Spray with a foaming coil cleaner and follow the
label directions to clean the evaporator.

1 2 4

26 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Clean an Evaporator Condensate
Drain Line
TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

A blocked evaporator drain line can lead to mold buildup and flooding. The drain removes condensation
resulting from warm air passing over cool evaporator coils. The moisture drips into a pan and is routed to a
basement drain or directly outside.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn air-conditioning off, and turn off power to the furnace at the
breaker box. Remove the air filter. Remove the access panel, if there is
• Shop vacuum
one, so that you have access to the evaporator pan and drain line.
• Rags
• White vinegar 2. Soak up standing water. Remove a blockage by locating the drain
line outlet. Place the wet/dry vac hose mouth over the opening and
seal around it with a wet rag. Turn on the vacuum and suck the clog
out. (If this doesn’t clear the line, snake it.)

3. Clean the drain line by slowly pouring a half-and-half solution of

warm water and vinegar into the drain. Wait 20 minutes and flush the
line with hot water.

Home Heating and Cooling 27

 Clean and Maintain Ductless
Air-Conditioning
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Ductless air-conditioning—also called “mini-splits”—is a room-by-room system. This reduces energy costs
and gives you more control. Ductless systems require regular maintenance and cleaning, which will extend
the life of the equipment.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the wall unit and switch off power at the breaker box (for
both the room and condenser). Switch on the wall unit to test that no
• Spray-on coil and fin
power is going to the condenser. Inspect the condenser and make sure
cleaner
there is at least 4' of clearance all around. Brush off loose debris with
• Soft-bristle brush
soft-bristle brush or rag.
• Rags
• Dish soap 2. Saturate the fins and coil with spray-on coil and fin cleaner. Let stand
• All-purpose household for 10 minutes. Spray off using a hose with spray attachment.
cleaner
3. Open the wall unit’s cover. Remove the end of the filter from behind
the tabs and slide the filter out. Repeat with the second filter if there
is one.

4. Gently wash the filters with a mild solution of warm water and dish
soap. Rinse thoroughly and let air-dry. Use a clean, lint-free cloth to
wipe dirt or debris from the fins behind the filters. Clean the unit with
a mild all-purpose cleaner.

5. Slip the dry filters into their channels and secure behind the tabs.
Close the unit and turn the power on. If it’s been more than six months,
change the batteries in the remote.

2 3

28 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Replace a Furnace Filter
TIME: 5 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Your furnace filter defends against indoor air contaminants. Replace it every four to six weeks—more or less
frequently based on local conditions and how much use the HVAC system sees.

Money Wise How You Do It

1. Turn off the power to the furnace at the breaker
Bargain filters are not necessarily economical
box. Locate the access panel (positioned horizon-
because they clog more quickly and block
fewer contaminants. Here are the replacement tally or vertically right before the blower intake) and
options. remove it.

• Fiberglass: A synthetic-fiber screen trapped 2. Note the arrow direction on the filter’s edge. The
on front and back between cardboard or plas- new filter must point the same direction (direction
tic grids, these capture larger particulates. doesn’t matter for reusable filters). Remove and
• Pleated paper: The next step up, this filter is discard the filter.
just as it sounds—a thick, pleated-paper sheet 3. Replace it with the same or better quality. Match
contained inside a cardboard frame. the new filter dimensions to the old. Slide the new
• Reusable electrostatic: Similar to metal range filter into place and reposition the access panel.
hood filters, these are made with metal faces Turn the power back on.
and frames and trap fine particulates that
might pass through other filters. They are
expensive but reusable—pull out the filter,
wash it, and reinstall. The higher initial cost is
amortized over time.
• HEPA: High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA)
filters are treated to catch allergens and even
microbes. They are worth the significant
expense for anyone with severe respiratory
issues or a compromised immune system.
Save more by purchasing filters in bulk. Re-
move one side of the box to expose filter edges,
and mark them with the dates they should be
installed.

Home Heating and Cooling 29

 Install a Thermostatic Radiator Valve
TIME: 25 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Hot-water radiators in older homes experience many issues, but the most frustrating is lack of control. One
room is stifling hot, while another is too cool. The answer is a thermostatic radiator valve (TRV). The valve
controls the flow of hot water into a radiator. Even if radiators have TRVs, it’s worth upgrading to a newer
version for greater control. Replacing or installing one isn’t difficult but requires a couple unusual tools. How-
ever, retrofitting a house full of old radiators makes buying those tools a good investment (and they’re handy
for future plumbing repairs).

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the heat. Close the radiator’s water shutoff valve. Drain the
radiator. Use a large pipe wrench to loosen the large union nut connect-
• Pipe wrenches
ing the tailpiece to the current valve. Use the wrench to loosen the nut
• Spud wrench
between the nipple (the vertical piece running into the floor) and the
• Pipe thread sealant
TRV; use a second wrench to hold the nipple.
• TRV valve
• Power drill and bits 2. Unscrew the existing valve and remove. Use a spud wrench and pipe
(optional, for mounting) wrench to remove the spud from the radiator inlet.
• Screwdriver (optional, 3. Coat the new spud’s threads with pipe thread sealant. Use the spud
for mounting)
wrench and pipe wrench to tighten the new spud onto the radiator.
Coat the nipple threads with pipe thread sealant. Tighten the new TRV
valve onto the nipple (don’t overtighten) and finish with the outlet fac-
ing the radiator.

1 2 3

30 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 4. Dab the spud with pipe thread sealant and line up the TRV outlet
with the radiator inlet. Use a pipe wrench to tighten the union nut to
make the connection.

5. Some TRVs have an integral sensor and control. Others are wired to
separate controls mounted on a nearby surface. If your TRV has a sep-
arate control, decide where you’ll mount it. Use the supplied hardware
to attach the control (usually screwing the control body to the surface
and fastening a faceplate over it). Route the sensor wire where it will be
4
as inconspicuous as possible and screw the sensor control unit onto the
TRV.

Replace a Steam-Heat Radiator Air Vent

TIME: 5 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Old cast-iron radiators are typically equipped with an air vent that bleeds off excess air in the system. These
are prone to failure.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the heat and let the radiator cool. Wrap the new vent’s
threaded stem with seal tape.
• Radiator air vent
• Thread seal tape, such 2. Use a rag to grip the existing air vent and steadily turn it counter-
as Teflon tape clockwise. Do not force it. Instead, spray the threads with a lubricating
• Rag spray solvent, let it soak, and then unscrew the vent.
• Lubricating spray 3. Screw the new air vent into the radiator, turning clockwise. Hand
solvent
tighten, finishing with the vent pointing upward.

Home Heating and Cooling 31

 Quiet Hot-Water Heating Pipes
TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Hot-water pipes banging is annoying. It may seem mysterious but is just physics. Metal pipes cool and con-
tract overnight. As heated water begins to flow in the morning, pipes heat and expand, knocking against the
wood members to which they’re attached. The solution is to accommodate pipe movement.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need 1. Trace hot-water supply and
cold-water return lines from the
• Screwdriver boiler. They’re usually secured to
• Lineman’s pliers supports with U-shaped metal
• Suspension pipe clamps straps. Use a screwdriver and line-
and screws man’s pliers to remove the straps.
• Stainless steel screws
2. Replace each strap with a slide-
2
on suspension pipe clamp. Screw
them to the wood with stainless
steel screws.

Quiet a Banging Steam-Heat Radiator

TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

This common condition is usually caused by condensation water that is supposed to run off back to the boil-
er but is instead bottled up because the radiator is not sitting level. This project is easier with a helper.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn the heat off and let the radiator cool. Set a level on the radiator.

• Level 2. Use a pipe wrench to loosen

• Pipe wrench the union nut holding the spud to
• Furniture coasters valve. Check level front to back
on the valve side and add coast-
ers under the back or front legs
to make it plumb (holding the
level vertically to the radiator).
Align the spud and tighten the
union nut just enough to hold the 2
radiator to the valve.

3. Lift the opposite end and add coasters under both legs. Check level
side to side and front to back and add or remove coasters as necessary.
Once the radiator is level both ways, tighten the union nut.

32 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Seal and Insulate Heating Ducts
TIME: 1 hour (depending on number and length of ductwork) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Heated air in a forced-air system can leak out of ductwork, adding as much as 20 percent to your yearly en-
ergy bill. That makes sealing and insulating ducts a high return-on-investment project.

2 3 5

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off heating and air-conditioning. Inspect ductwork and deter-
mine the supply trunks (warm air to rooms) and returns (cool air back
• Eye protection
to furnace). Seal all ductwork but only insulate supply ducts.
• Work gloves
• Duct mastic sealant 2. Wear eye protection and work gloves. Brush on a thick layer of mas-
• 2" brush tic to seal curved seams at elbows and bends (follow the manufactur-
• Foil HVAC tape er’s directions). Securely tape straight-line seams with foil HVAC tape.
• Tape measure 3. Wrap round supply ducts with pre-taped circular insulation sleeves
• Utility knife (buy sleeves that match the ducts’ diameter). For hard-to-reach runs,
• Long metal straightedge slip off the nearest elbow, position the supplied plastic slip cap on the
• Duct insulation or duct duct end, and slide the sleeve into place.
sleeve insulation
• Foil insulation tape 4. For large or squared-off supply ducts, measure the circumference or
perimeter of the duct. Unroll duct batt insulation and use a utility knife
and a long metal straightedge to cut the batting to match.

5. Wrap the duct with insulation (easier with a helper). Tape the seam
where the two edges of the insulation meet, using foil insulation tape.
Insulate all supply lines.

White Flag
Underperforming older forced-air systems can benefit from a professional solution. The latest technology
for sealing HVAC ductwork—especially inside walls or other impossible-to-reach areas—is internal sealant.
The involves blowing aerosolized sealant liquid into ducts, under pressure. The rubbery sealant clings to
leaks, drying rapidly, and sealing them from the inside. This is not a DIY technique. The HVAC pros that pro-
vide the service can use their equipment to determine exactly how much leakage is occurring.

Home Heating and Cooling 33

 Install a Programmable Thermostat
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Digital technology has been around for decades, but there are still many analog mercury-switch home
thermostats hanging around. These can be money wasters because they can’t be set to go on or off based
on need. A digital thermostat offers more control. This project describes installing a basic “set it once, and
you’re done” programmable thermostat, but the installation process is basically the same for any program-
mable unit.

Money Wise
Only pay for the digital thermostat you’ll use. A basic model, like
the one here, costs $40 to $50. It can adjust temperature at
different times and days. Prices rise with the number of features.
The most expensive are smart thermostats. Wi-Fi- or Bluetooth-
enabled, these can be programmed and controlled from a smart-
phone, tablet, or computer. Features include “auto-away” func-
tions that lower the temperature when the house is empty, energy
consumption tracking, and more. Get the best bargain by honestly
assessing how much information and tech you want to manage.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off power to the thermostat and turn off heating and air-condi-
tioning. Remove the existing cover plate and unscrew the body. Re-
• Programmable
move and set aside. Use a circuit tester to check that the power is off.
thermostat
Disconnect each low voltage wire from the terminals. As you do, label
• Screwdriver
each with tape marking the letter of the respective terminal.
• Circuit tester
• Painter’s tape or
masking tape
• Power drill and bits

34 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 2 4

2. Unscrew the mounting plate. Hold the cable con- 4. Double-check the manufacturer’s instructions
taining the low-voltage wires so it doesn’t fall back to determine the correct locations for the wires.
into the wall. Temporarily tape it to the wall. Connect them to the appropriate terminals. Install

3. Position the new mounting place over the existing batteries and snap or screw the thermostat to the

hole and guide the wire cable through the plate’s mounting plate. Turn the power on and test the ther-

opening. Tape the cable to the wall again. Mark and mostat functions.

drill starter holes for the mounting plate screws. In-

stall anchors as necessary. Screw the mounting plate
to the wall.

Safe at Home
Older analog thermostats—the round-dial versions—often have
mercury switches. The mercury is hazardous waste. Do not discard
the thermostat in household garbage. Contact your local sanitation
department for safe disposal instructions.

Home Heating and Cooling 35

 Hang a Ceiling Fan
TIME: 90 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Ceiling fans help keep rooms cool or evenly warm. A ceiling fan can
even alleviate the need for air-conditioning. They are available in styles
ranging from Victorian to modern, and many feature built-in lighting
and a remote. Look for a reverse-direction feature so you can reverse
blade direction for summer and winter. (Pushing cool air down cre-
ates cooling wind chill; drawing cold air up forces warm air down.)
The height of your ceiling will determine if you need a flush-mount or
down-rod fan (angled mounts are also available).

How You Do It
1. Turn the power off to the room. Remove any bulbs and use a circuit
tester to check that no current is flowing.

2. Remove the existing fixture’s mounting canopy and unscrew the

fixture from its mounting bracket. Unscrew the bracket from the ceiling
box and undo the wire connections.

3. Use a flashlight to check if the ceiling electrical box is labeled “ac-

ceptable for fan.” If not, remove the box and install a new fan-support-
ing electrical ceiling box (an “old work” box). Slide the new box brace
What You’ll Need up into the ceiling hole to bridge across the joists. Rotate the brace to
tighten it in place. Slide the wiring into the box through a knockout and
• Ladder mount the box to the brace with the supplied hardware.
• Circuit tester
4. Fasten the fan mounting bracket to the ceiling box. Attach the down
• Screwdriver
rod and canopy to the housing following the manufacturer’s directions,
• Flashlight (optional)
running the wires through the rod first. Strip 1" off the ends of the wires.
• Fan-approved ceiling
electrical box and joist 5. Screw the fan mount to the bracket or set the ball mount in the
mounting bracket bracket cradle. If the fan uses a remote, tuck the receiver into the
(optional)
bracket.
• Fan
• Multipurpose 6. Connect the wires using wire nuts (ground—usually green or cop-
electrician’s tool per—to ground wire or ground nut in electrical box; neutral—usually
• Wire nuts white—to neutral; and live—usually black or red—to live). Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions and call an electrician if you’re unsure the
wiring is correct. Tuck the wires inside the box and secure the fan
canopy over the box.

36 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 Ceiling Fan Size

The bottom of a ceiling fan should hang 8' to BLADE SPREAD ROOM SIZE
9'—but at least 7'—from the floor. Blade spread
depends on a room’s square footage. For a fan to 36" to 72 square feet
with an odd number of blades, measure from
to 48" to 180 square feet
the fixture’s center to a blade tip and double
that number. For an even number of blades, to 58" to 350 square feet
measure tip to tip of opposite blades. Blade tips
should be at least 18" from the nearest wall. 60" and above more than 400 square feet*

* Rooms significantly larger than 400 square feet call for

two smaller fans.

3 3

5 6

7. Install any separate light fixture, wiring it to the 8. Add the pull chain if the fan has one and install
housing. Screw a light bulb into the fixture. Attach batteries in a remote. Turn the power on and check
the blades if you haven’t done so already (follow the that light, fan, and all features work as they should.
manufacturer’s directions—there are several ways
to attach blades, but make sure they are securely
fastened).

Home Heating and Cooling 37

 Balance a Wobbly Ceiling Fan
TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

A wobbly ceiling fan is nerve-racking and a safety risk. Wobbling can also shorten fan life. A balancing kit
makes fixing a wobble easy and quick. However, consider replacing wobbling fans more than ten years old.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Dust the fan body and blades. Use an all-purpose cleaner to remove
stubborn grime (sprayed on the rag rather than on the fan).
• Rag
• All-purpose cleaner 2. Unscrew and unfasten the ceiling canopy to access the ceiling box.
• Screwdriver Check that the box is approved for fan support and that joist mounts or
• Tape measure bracket are tight and secure. Replace the canopy.
• Fan balancing kit 3. Check that the connections for the housing, blade irons, and blades
are secure. Measure from ceiling down to each blade. The distance
should be the same for all; replace warped, or damaged blades.

4. Clip the movable weight onto a

blade. Turn the fan on and check
whether the wobble is reduced.
Repeat with each blade. When you
find the problem blade, slide the
weight in and out, turning on the
fan each time to see which posi-
tion ensures stable fan movement.
Attach a self-adhesive fan weight
4
at that location. Test one last time.

Clean a Dryer Vent

TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Improperly maintained dryer vents cause thousands of fires each year. That alone should be reason enough
to regularly clean yours, but proper venting also increases dryer life.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need 1. Unplug the dryer and turn off any gas supply. Pull the dryer out and
unscrew the clamp holding the vent duct to the dryer outlet.
• Screwdriver
2. Use a brush to loosen debris inside the outlet. Suck out the debris
• Small scrub brush with
with a shop vacuum. Repeat for the outside dryer vent. (You may need
stiff bristles
to remove the exterior vent hood.)
• Shop vacuum
• Flexible vent ducting 3. Check the duct for damage. If any, replace it. (Local codes may require
• Duct tape replacing it with rigid metal exhaust pipe. Follow code requirements.)
Tape the duct connections together with duct tape—or screw the clamps
for flexible duct—at each end, to the dryer outlet and vent collar.
38
Install an Exterior Dryer Vent
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Older homes often have basic wall holes for dryer vents or none at all. Open vents may allow rodents,
insects, and cold air inside. Upgrading is easy and quick.

What You’ll Need How You Do It

1. Unplug the dryer and turn off any gas supply. Measure from dryer
• Tape measure outlet to the vent. Purchase the necessary vent, elbows, and rigid
• Dryer vent metal duct.
• Rigid metal elbow(s) 2. Use a hole saw (4 1⁄4" for a 4" duct collar) to cut a hole through the
• Rigid metal duct
wall. Hire a professional to install in a masonry wall.
• 4 1⁄4" hole saw
• Power drill and bits 3. Slide the vent hood collar through the hole and square up the
• Caulking gun hood. Screw it to the siding with the supplied screws. Caulk around
• Exterior caulk the edges.
• Foil duct tape 4. Slip a metal elbow or rigid vent pipe onto the collar. Route the duct
to the dryer outlet, sloping it slightly toward the dryer. Use foil duct
tape to seal all connections and seams. Slide the dryer back into
position, plug it in, and turn on any gas supply.

2 3 4

Home Heating and Cooling 39

 2. Structural
Openings
A home’s windows and doors are the most used, and abused, structural components.
They are crucial, providing access to people and airflow and preventing water and
pest infiltration. They are also essential to home security. Regardless, these openings
have a way of blending into the background.

Windows

Double-hung
Most houses have more windows than doors. Door
sizes are fairly standard, but window size and type
varies quite a bit. Here are the basic types.
• Double- and single-hung: These are common to
a range of architectural styles. The window has
an upper and lower sash. Only the bottom moves
in a single-hung window, while both move in a
double-hung window. These windows are often
painted shut and experience other age-related
issues.
• Casement: A more contemporary style, casement
windows are hinged along the vertical edge and
open out. The most common problems are crank
malfunctions and misalignment due to window
frame expansion and contraction.
Casement

40 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 Of course, interior and exterior doors aren’t the

Bypass
only ones that see wear and tear in the house.
Closet doors—bypass or folding—see just as much
use. The same is true of kitchen cabinet doors.
Sliding glass doors have their own malfunctions, as
do less common “pocket” doors (sliding on a track
into a wall cavity).

• Bypass: Also known as “sliding” windows, a

movable pane slides in a track past a fixed pane.
These often stick, preventing the window from
freely opening and closing.
• Transom: Also called awning windows, these are
seldom used anymore; they are hinged across
the top and open out from the bottom. A similar
type, hinged along the bottom, is called a “hop-
per window.” These are common in older houses
that were once heated by coal.

Pane
• Fixed: Fixed windows are just as they sound:
They don’t open. Plate glass “picture” windows
Jamb are the most obvious, but these are used as dec-
orative windows and in places that can’t be easily
Rail reached. Breakage is the most common problem.

Stile

Sill

Sash
Doors
Doors are simple structures, but there’s a lot that
goes wrong with them. That’s a consequence of
heavy use. Most problems are minor and easily fixed.
When buying parts or researching repairs, it helps
to speak the language of doors. The first word is
“handedness.” This refers to the side the door opens
on. Stand on the outside of any door (i.e., on your
front steps for an exterior door and in a hallway for
an interior door); the side with the hinges as you
face the door is the “hand”—hinges on the right are
a right-handed door. You need to know this when
replacing a door or upgrading a lockset or a handle.
For instance, if you’ve purchased a lever lockset to
replace your current door handle, the lever has to
point toward the hinges. Most locksets are marked
with the handedness. In some rare cases, doors swing A lever door handle should always point in toward the
hinges .
out. The handedness on an outswing door is reversed
from above and is termed “right handed, reverse”.

Structural Openings 41
 Install a Lockset
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

A new door lockset (the term for the handle with integral lock) can
upgrade a home’s look, and it can also bolster home security because
older handles may not hold as strongly as a new unit might. Before
shopping for a lockset, remove the existing unit, take measurements,
and know the door’s “hand” (see page 41).

How You Do It
1. Remove the existing lockset by unscrewing the handles on both
sides. Remove the latch, latch plate, and door jamb strike plate.

2. Measure the backset—the distance from door edge to the middle of

the handle hole. (The standard backset is 2 3⁄8" for interior doors and
2 3⁄4" for exterior doors.) Buy a lockset with a matching backset.
3. Screw the new strike plate to the jamb, over the mortise. Slide the
latch assembly through the door-edge hole, making sure the beveled
What You’ll Need side is opposite the opening side of the door (otherwise, the door
will not open or close properly). Optional: If the plate doesn’t fit into
• Phillips screwdriver the jamb mortise (the cut-out recess), outline the shape of the plate
• Tape measure against the mortise and use a chisel and hammer to carefully remove
• Lockset additional material until the new plate fits.
• Chisel (optional)
4. Slide the outside handle into the latch body and then the inside han-
• Hammer (optional)
dle (the one with the lock) into the outside handle and latch. Screw the
handles together. Test the handles and lock.

2 3 Optional

Pro Tip
A common problem with new locksets or deadbolts is misalignment; the latch doesn’t slide cleanly into the
hole. Locate where it is hitting the jamb to solve the problem. Open the door. Extend the deadbolt or door
handle latch. Mark the outside edges with chalk, bluing, or grease pencil. Close the door and move the dead-

42 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Install a Keyless Deadbolt
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Replacing an exterior door deadbolt with a keyless electronic unit

makes it more secure and adds convenience. Never again misplace the
key and lock yourself out. These units are usually battery powered and
can be linked with home Wi-Fi and your smartphone. Most come with
an alarm that triggers if the lock is forced. All are easy to install.

How You Do It
1. Unscrew the existing deadbolt and remove the outer and inner
faceplates and deadbolt mechanism. Remove the existing strike plate.

2. Check the mounting plate against the door-edge mortise. If it

doesn’t fit into the mortise, chisel out material to accommodate the
mounting plate.

3. Close the door and check that the deadbolt slides into the jamb
mortise. If the deadbolt is misaligned, chisel out the mortise to fit.

4. Check the reinforcement plate (a separate piece that sits under

the strike plate) fits in the jamb mortise. Chisel out the mortise as
necessary. The strike plate should sit flush when installed.

5. Screw in the reinforcement plate with the longer, heavy-duty screws

supplied. Screw the strike plate down over the reinforcement plate.
Check that the deadbolt still engages properly.

6. Guide the control wire for the keypad into the deadbolt hole.
Secure the keypad through the latch. Slip the interior mounting plate
into position to hold the keypad in place. Screw the mounting plate to
the keypad.

7. Screw the control unit to the mounting plate. Load new batteries
into the control unit and fasten the cover over it. Program the keypad
and connect to a Wi-Fi hub and/or your smartphone following the
What You’ll Need
manufacturer’s directions.

• Phillips screwdriver
• Chisel (optional)
• Hammer (optional)
• Power drill and bits
• Keyless deadbolt

5 6

Structural Openings 43
 Fix a Sagging Door
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

A sagging door usually sticks along the handle-side jamb when it is opened or closed. The problem afflicts
heavier solid doors, rarely hollow-core doors. Exterior or interior doors can sag, and the problem is likelier
in a busy house with many family members going in and out. Start with the simplest fix first and work up to
more complex solutions if necessary.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Determine the extent of sagging by inspecting the gaps between
door and frame along the top and down the latch side. The gaps will
• Screwdrivers
be noticeably wider at one end than the other. Start by tightening the
• Hinge shims or stiff
hinge screws. Inspect the hinge-side door jamb for obvious damage
cardboard sheet
such as splintering or cracking.
• Utility knife (optional)
2. If that door still sags, loosen the bottom jamb hinge leaf. Slide two or
three plastic hinge shims behind the leaf, and tighten the screws. Slide
one less shim under the door-side leaf and tighten it down. Repeat with
the middle hinge, using one less shim on each side than you used on
the bottom hinge. Optional: Make your own hinge shims. Support the
door along the bottom and remove the bottom hinge. Use one leaf as a
template to cut shims out of stiff sheet cardboard, using a utility knife.

3. Check that the door opens and closes smoothly and that the gaps
are uniform all the way around. Add or remove shims as needed.

2 Optional

44 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Fix a Sticking Door
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Fixing a sticking door is simple, but you’ll need one or two special tools.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Line the latch-side door edge with masking tape or painter’s tape.
Open the compass to match the widest part of the gap. Run the leg of
• Masking tape or
the compass down the door jamb to scribe the face of the door where
painter’s tape
it’s rubbing.
• Carpenter’s compass
and pencil 2. Remove the hinge pins and place the door on edge, with latch edge
• Power drill and bits facing up, supported by braces.
• Belt sander or plane
3. Use a plane or belt sander to remove wood along the scribed edge,
• Carpenter’s square
down to the marked line. A plane is more efficient but harder for be-
• Paint or stain (optional)
ginners to master. If you use a sander, work slowly and keep the sander
• 1" brush (optional)
moving. Regularly stop and check that the edge is square to the face,
using a carpenter’s square.

4. Rehang the door and check the fit. Plane or sand more wood as
necessary. Seal the door edge with paint or stain to match the existing
finish.

1 3

Structural Openings 45
 Hang a Prehung Exterior Door
TIME: 4 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

You can swap an exterior door with a plain “slab” door—a replacement
that hangs in the same frame. However, this often involves chiseling,
sanding, or other fine-tuning to fit the new door. A prehung door—a
new door in its own frame—is easier. These come in many styles and
materials. Prehung units include weather stripping and everything you
need to secure it in the opening. Installation is straightforward and usu-
ally eliminates the need for chiseling.

How You Do It
1. Use a pry bar to remove existing interior trim. Measure the outside
What You’ll Need dimension height and width of the existing frame and door. Measure
jamb depth. Write the measurements down. Unscrew and remove any
• Prehung exterior door storm or screen door.
• Stepladder 2. Score the seam between the exterior trim and frame with a utility
• Pry bar
knife. Pry off the exterior trim. Tap out the existing door hinge pins
• Tape measure
from the bottom with a screwdriver and hammer. Remove the door.
• Notepad and pen
• Screwdriver 3. Unscrew the strike plates for the latch and deadbolt. Cut around the
• Utility knife frame with a reciprocating saw to sever fasteners. Push the old frame
• Hammer out of the doorway from inside.
• Reciprocating saw 4. Use a level to check that the opening sides are plumb and the
• Level threshold is level. Use a carpenter’s square to determine if all four
• Carpenter’s square corners are square. Shim or build up wood members to achieve level,
• Wood shims plumb, or square.
• PVC cement
5. Dry fit the new sill pan pieces. Slip the end pieces in place and ce-
• Exterior adhesive caulk
ment the center section on top of them with PVC cement. When the
• Caulk gun
pieces are cured, remove the sill pan as one piece.
• Power drill and bits
• Countersink bit 6. Line the sill with exterior adhesive caulk and seat the pan. Let it cure
• New lockset (if not for the time recommended by the manufacturer. Caulk the sill seams
included with the along the back and between the sill pieces.
prehung door)
7. Remove the lockset plug in the prehung frame. Drill an access hole
• Handsaw (optional)
• Unfaced fiberglass for any doorbell wires. Unwrap exterior protection from the prehung
insulation (optional) unit. Lay a bead of exterior sealant caulk along the inside of the brick
mold (the lip around the prehung frame).

46 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 Pro Tip
This project is not technically demanding but takes time and
effort. You need a helper; don’t attempt installation without one.

3 5

8 9

8. Set the door on the sill and then slowly ease the 9. Use a countersink drill bit to countersink pilot
door and frame back into the wall. Pull any doorbell holes next to the hinges, top to bottom, and at the
wires through the hole in the prehung frame. same places on the opposite side, and next to the
strike plate. Drive the supplied screws halfway into
the middle holes. Hold a level on the front and inside
of the frame to check level and plumb. Drive the re-
maining screws halfway into the frame holes on the
hinge side of the unit.

(continued) 

Structural Openings 47
 12 15

10. Check inside that the unit looks centered and 13. Lay a piece of paper on the threshold and close
use a level to check plumb on the inside hinge edge. the door. You should be able to pull the paper out,
Drive shims behind the screw locations on the hinge but feel resistance. If the paper won’t come out or
side and tighten the screws all the way down. pulls out too easily, tighten or loosen the sill cap

11. Close the door and measure where the weath- screws to lower or raise the cap.
er stripping lines up on the door, top, middle, and 14. Caulk the edges of the sill cap and fasten the
bottom. The measurements should be the same, or self-stick weather stripping corners over the caulked
you’ll need to slightly force the frame outside where seam. Install the lockset (see page 42) and deadbolt.
it is too far in. Drive the screws halfway in at the top Check that they work correctly.
and bottom and drive shims at the screw locations 15. Cut the shims off flush with the frame using a
and behind the strike plate (as well as the deadbolt handsaw or utility knife. Jam insulation into any gaps
strike plate if there is one). between frame and wall. Replace the interior trim
12. Check the inside of the frame for plumb and or cut and install new trim. Seal around the exterior
adjust the shims as necessary. Drive the screws all trim with sealant caulk and paint the door if desired.
the way into the countersunk holes and through the
shims. Shim behind the second screw on the strike
plate and tighten down the strike plate.

48 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Hang a Prehung Interior Door
TIME: 2 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

A prehung interior door is an easy way to update the interior look.

It’s also the ideal way to add a door in a newly cut wall opening.
These doors alleviate the need to cut mortises or adjust a door to
an existing frame.

How You Do It
1. Remove the existing door and frame. Unwrap the prehung unit and
slide it into the opening so that the frame is flush with wall all around.
Starting with the top head jamb, check level and shim to secure the
door frame in place. Check and ensure the sides are plumb, using the
level and shimming as necessary. Check level and plumb one last time
when you’re done.

2. Drive finishing nails through the frame, shims, and into the studs and
header. Stop before the nail is flush and set each nail with a nailset.
Drive nails through the shims into the stud, anywhere the frame does
not cover the wall framing.

3. Check that the door opens and closes properly. Install the trim on
the side opposite where shims stick out. Trim the shims flush with a
handsaw or utility knife. Install the trim on the second side. Paint the
door and trim as necessary. Install the lockset or handle.

What You’ll Need

• Prehung interior door

• Carpenter’s level
• Wood shims
• Claw hammer
• Finishing nails
• Nailset
• Handsaw or utility knife
• Lockset

Structural Openings 49
 Install a Storm Door
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Storm doors defend against higher energy bills. Adding one in front of
an exterior door is like adding a layer of insulation. They are also a way
to dress up any exterior-facing door.

How You Do It
1. Before buying a storm door, measure from the door sill to the inside
top of the door frame on the left, right, and middle. Measure side to
side at bottom, middle, and top. Use the shortest height and width
measurements and buy a storm door to match.

2. Screw the drip cap to the trim right above the door, driving one or
two screws with a drill or driver. Measure from the underside of the drip
cap down to the top of the sill. Subtract 1⁄4".
3. Mark the supplied hinge-side Z-bar to match the measurement. Cut it
to length with a hacksaw. Avoid tearing out any integral weather strip-
What You’ll Need
ping. Screw the Z-bar to the hinged side frame edge with a screwdriver,
using the supplied hardware. Screw the door to the Z-bar.
• Storm door
• Tape measure 4. Adjust the drip cap so that there is at least 1⁄4" between it and the
• Marking pen storm door top edge. Check the cap for level and tighten it down.
• Hacksaw Check that the door opens and closes properly.
• Level 5. Measure from the drip cap bottom to the top of the sill on the latch
• Power drill and bits side. Cut and install the latch-side Z-bar as on the hinge side, leaving a
• Screwdriver ⁄4" gap between the bar top and the drip cap. Install the lockset.
1

6. Hold the door sweep in place and mark it for cutting, if necessary.
Cut and screw it to the storm door bottom. Screw the hydraulic opener
mounts into the predrilled holes on the storm door and to the jamb,
checking for level. Tighten or loosen the set screw on the tube to en-
sure smooth opening and closing.

3 5 6

50 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Replace Broken Storm Door
(or Storm Window) Glass
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Storm door and storm window glass usually isn’t tempered—it breaks as easily as window glass. Breaks com-
promise the door or window’s insulation properties, so replace the pane right away.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Slide the lock tabs and remove the panel to a clean, flat work surface.
Wear puncture-proof work gloves to remove the vinyl or rubber gasket
• Puncture-proof work
around the glass channel and any broken glass. Measure the frame side
gloves
to side and top to bottom to determine the replacement glass size. If
• Tape measure
the pane is just cracked but still intact, jump to step 3.
• Screwdriver
• Rubber window gasket 2. Unscrew and remove the retaining rail (usually the top rail) for the
• Utility knife panel. Be careful not to damage the corner retaining keys.

3. Buy new glass to match (take a sample to match thickness) and a re-
placement gasket. Starting at one end, press the gasket onto the glass
edge. Continue all the way around, until the two ends meet—trim with a
utility knife as necessary.

4. Slide the glass into the frame channel. Fasten the corner keys into
the top rail. Slide the opposite key legs into the frame stiles. Guide the
rail down onto the glass edge. Screw down the rail and reinstall in the
storm door, or rehang a storm window.

1 2

3 4

Structural Openings 51
 Install Bifold Closet Doors
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Bifold closet doors save space, making them great for smaller bed-
rooms or hallway closets. Installation is easy, but pay close attention to
plumb and height adjustments so the doors open and close smoothly.

How You Do It
1. Remove existing doors and hardware. Measure the opening’s interior
dimensions. Buy door sets to fit those measurements. Fill old hardware
holes with spackle, let dry, sand, and prep the existing woodwork. Paint
as desired.

2. Mark the center of the jamb on each side with a pencil and use a lev-
el to trace plumb line down to the floor. Measure, mark, and cut the top
track with the hacksaw fitted with a metal-cutting blade. Allow for a 1⁄16"
gap on each end for expansion and contraction. Screw the track to the
What You’ll Need bottom of the header, centering front to back and side to side. Point
the pivot bracket toward the jamb on each end.
• Bifold closet doors and
3. Center a bottom bracket and mark screw locations on the jamb and
hardware
• Screwdriver floor. Drill pilot holes and screw the bracket to the jamb and floor. Re-
• Tape measure peat on the opposite side.
• Spackle 4. Tap the pivot posts into the doors’ top and bottom holes (if the
• Small putty knife doors have an irregular panel design, be careful to install the pivots on
• Sandpaper the correct ends). Install the center guide spring centered in the top
• Paint (optional) track. Depress and guide the top pivots for one door set into the top
• 2" paintbrush (optional) track. Guide the bottom pivot into place and adjust for desired height.
• Hacksaw and metal-
5. Set the bottom pivot in the appropriate bracket slot so the outside
cutting blade
• Pencil door is flush with the jamb; loosen the top bracket adjustment screw
• Level and slide the bracket until the doors are plumb (check with a level).
• Power drill and bits 6. Repeat the process with the second set of doors. Attach the aligners,
if any, on the door backs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In-
stall pulls or handles and check that the doors open and close correctly.

2 3 4

52 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Install Bypass Closet Doors
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Bypass closet doors allow full access to the closet and don’t require
door-swing space. Less-expensive versions use only a top track. This
project uses doors with top and bottom tracks. They provide more
stability and less chance of damage to doors or hardware.

How You Do It
1. Remove existing closet doors and hardware. Measure the opening’s
interior dimensions. Buy bypass doors to fit. Fill old hardware holes
with spackle, let dry, sand, and prep the existing woodwork. Paint as
desired.

2. Measure the opening side to side at bottom and top. Cut the bottom
wood support strip to length. Use a hacksaw with a metal-cutting blade
to cut the tracks to length (an inexpensive miter box helps immensely
in making straight, clean cuts) minus 1⁄8" for expansion and contraction.
What You’ll Need Optional: The steps here assume a wood floor. Follow the manufactur-
er’s instructions if your floor is tile or carpet; some recommend cutting
• Screwdriver a track channel in carpet, and you’ll need special screws for ceramic or
• Tape measure stone tile.
• Bypass door set
• Spackle
• Small putty knife
• Sandpaper
• Paint (optional)
• 2" paintbrush (optional)
• Handsaw
• Hacksaw with metal-
cutting blade
• Miter box (optional)
• Power drill and bits
• Level
• Wood shims (optional)
• Claw hammer

Structural Openings 53
 4 7

3. Determine top track orientation, if necessary 5. Adjust the bottom rollers so that they are at the
(check manufacturer’s instructions). Most manufac- manufacturer’s recommended distance below the
turers specify the track be flush with the front of the frame (usually 3⁄4"). Attach top frame guides, if any.
opening; center it front to back if you prefer. Mark 6. Hold a door in front of the opening, facing you.
the holes, drill 1⁄8" pilot holes, and screw the track Tilt the top toward the closet. Slip the top guide or
loosely in place, leaving a 1⁄16" gap at each end. slide into the rear track channel. Press up and set
4. Check that the track is level. Shim, if necessary, the wheels into the rear channel of the bottom track.
and screw it down. Measure according to the man- Repeat with the second door and the front track
ufacturer’s recommendations for the bottom track channels.
placement (usually requires an offset to match the 7. Use a screwdriver to adjust the wheel alignment to
top track), including any wood strip. Nail the strip in eliminate any gaps between the jambs and the sides
place and screw the track down to the wood. of the doors.

Pro Tip
Before beginning any project like this—requiring the purchasing
of prefab structures and hardware—unbox what you’ve bought to
ensure that all necessary hardware, fasteners, and special tools are
included. If you don’t check, you may find yourself making another
trip to the store mid-project.

54 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Install a Video Doorbell
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

These days home delivery of just about everything is the norm. An un-
fortunate side effect has been “porch piracy”—thieves taking packages
left outside a front door. A video doorbell can increase security and
stop theft, and it is easy to install one. The doorbell camera feeds video
to a smartphone or computer, recording anyone approaching the door.
Just make sure the doorbell software is compatible with your computer
setup.

How You Do It
1. Use the manufacturer’s app to set up the doorbell on your home sys-
tem. Shut off power at the breaker box. Remove the existing doorbell,
testing that the power is off with a circuit tester before unscrewing the
wires from the terminals.

2. Center the mounting bracket over the existing doorbell opening.

Check the mounting plate for level, using a torpedo level (some manu-
facturers provide a miniature bubble level; if yours does, use that). Mark
What You’ll Need for the mounting screws.

3. Drill 1⁄16" pilot holes. Alternative: To screw the doorbell to stucco or

• Video doorbell
brick, use a masonry bit and anchors (usually supplied). Push the an-
• Phillips screwdriver
chors into the holes.
• Circuit tester
• Torpedo level (optional) 4. Screw the mounting bracket to the wall with the supplied screws.
• Power drill and bits Remove the manufacturer’s miniature level, if any. Attach the doorbell
• Masonry bit (optional) wires to the mounting bracket terminal screws. Attach the supplied
diode to the terminal screws if your chime is digital. (The diode must
be positioned correctly for the chime to sound. If it doesn’t, reverse the
diode. You don’t need the diode if you have a mechanical chime.)

5. Fasten the doorbell body onto the mounting plate, following to the
manufacturer’s directions. Tighten any safety screws meant to hold the
body in place. Turn the power on and the doorbell light should illumi-
nate. If not, remove the body and check the connections (reverse diode
direction if the chime doesn’t ring).

2 4

Structural Openings 55
 Tune Up Sliding Glass Doors
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Sliding glass doors are meant to be invisible but become all too apparent when they stick or won’t open
without effort. Head off any problems with regular maintenance.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Vacuum the track with the doors closed and open. Clean the top and
bottom tracks with nonabrasive all-purpose cleanser, with the doors
• Shop or home vacuum
closed and open.
• All-purpose, nonabrasive
household cleanser 2. Smooth rough spots on tracks by rubbing with steel wool. Lubricate
• Steel wool the tracks with aluminum lubricant spray. Push the door back and forth
• Screwdriver to lubricate internal weather stripping. Spray the door latch mechanism.
• Aluminum lubricant 3. Adjust the rollers to the appro-
spray
priate height (usually about 1⁄4"
below the frame), using the screw
adjustment on the door edge. Pro
Tip: The adjustment screw will be
easier to turn if you lift the door
off the track—or have a helper lift
it—while you adjust the rollers.
3

Replace Sliding Door Rollers

TIME: 2 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Sometimes basic cleaning and maintenance won’t revive sliding doors. If the door remains hard to open, the
rollers may need replacing. Different manufacturers make slightly different designs, but all are similar. Roller
assemblies are widely available at home centers and online. Remove the existing rollers before you shop to
ensure a match. Because you’ll remove the door, you may need to cover the opening with plastic if you can’t
complete the job in a day. You’ll need a helper; this will be far more laborious alone.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Remove any screen door by wedging a putty knife under the roller or
spring holding the door to the track. Compress the roller or spring and
• Putty knife
lift the screen up and out. Set it aside.
• Screwdriver
• Sawhorses 2. If one door is stationary, use a putty knife to pry up the sill plate
• Door roller assemblies securing the door. Unscrew and remove any frame brackets. Slide the
• Polyurethane or rubber stationary door toward the center of the opening and lift it up and out.
mallet

56
 3. Use a screwdriver to adjust the door rollers up in-
side the second door. Lift the door up and out of the
opening. Rest it facedown across two sawhorses.

4. Unscrew the screw above the adjusting screw on

the door edge. Maneuver the roller assembly out.
Remove the second roller in the same way. In older
aluminum-frame doors, there may be a removable
bottom panel rather than a roller-securing screw.
Remove the panel to remove the roller.

5. Buy new rollers to match the old. Clean the door

2 bottom with an all-purpose nonabrasive cleaner.
Install the new roller assemblies.

6. Clean the door opening top to bottom, finishing

with the bottom tracks. Check that the tracks are
in good condition. If they aren’t, slip replacement
tracks over them.

7. Turn the adjustment screw to raise the new rollers

up into the door. With a helper, lift the door into
the opening and into the upper track. Guide it onto
the bottom track. Readjust the rollers to the correct
height.

4 8. Check that the door is plumb with the jamb and

adjust one or the other roller until it is.

9. Reinstall the stationary door by tilting it into the

top track and then guiding it into the bottom track.
Screw on any frame brackets and tap the retaining
plate in place with a mallet.

10. Install the screen door, if any, by depressing the

rollers or spring guides with a putty knife and setting
the screen into the top and bottom tracks.

Structural Openings 57
 Replace Window Glass
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Windows break. Double-insulated windows should be repaired by a pro, but you can easily replace a broken
single-pane window. This method can also be used to re-putty single-pane windows in older homes, to con-
serve energy and lower utility bills. However, this process will only work for wood frames; find instructions for
replacing broken glass in a metal frame on page 51.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. If possible, remove the sash to a clean, level work surface. If this is
not possible, make sure you have unblocked access to the window. Set
• Drop cloth
down a drop cloth to stage supplies and catch any broken glass.
• Leather or puncture-
proof work gloves 2. Chip out existing putty or glazing compound with a putty knife,
• Eye protection but avoid damaging the frame. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften
• Putty knife putty, if needed. If the putty is unpainted or the paint is cracked, you
• Heat gun or hair dryer can brush on linseed oil and let it soften the putty. If the broken pane
(optional) is intact, measure it both ways. Otherwise, measure the frame’s inside
• Linseed oil dimensions, subtracting 1⁄8" each way (for expansion and contraction).
• Replacement glass
3. Clean the frame channel of debris. Brush a little linseed oil onto the
• Glazing compound
frame and let it dry. Press a bed of glazing compound into the channel.
• Glazier’s points
4. Press the new pane into the putty. Use the putty knife blade to slide
a glazier’s point across the glass and into the frame. Use at least two
points per side, or as many as it takes, spacing them 3" to 4" apart.

5. Roll a thin rope of glazing compound and press it along the edge of
the new pane. Bevel it by pressing with the putty knife and then drag
the knife along the bead at a 45° angle to the glass. Let the compound
dry completely (may take up to a week) and then prime and paint.

2 4 5

58 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Cure a Sticking Window
TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

This is one of the most common problems in any house more than fifteen years old. Wood window frames
expand and contract, causing sticking. Homeowners also often paint windows incorrectly, gluing them shut
with paint. The issue is easy to resolve.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Break a painted seal between sash and frame by sliding a paint
zipper into and along the seam everywhere the sash contacts the
• Paint zipper or putty
frame. Paint zippers are available at hardware stores and home centers.
knife
A putty knife is a suitable alternative.
• Scrap wood
• Hammer or mallet 2. If the sash is frozen because of expansion and contraction, place a
• Silicone spray lubricant scrap piece of wood against the sash and lightly tap it with a mallet.
Do not strike hard or the glass will break.

3. Once you’ve freed the sash, prevent future sticking by spraying the
sash channel of single and double-hung windows with a silicone spray
lubricant.

1 2

Structural Openings 59
 Tune Up a Casement Window Crank
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Casement windows are generally less prone to problems such as stick-

ing. However, the crank can be a problem area.

How You Do It

What You’ll Need 1 2

• Rags
• Penetrating cleaner
• White lithium grease
• Screwdriver
• Silicone spray lubricant

3 4

1. Open the window until the roller at the end of the 3. If the problem persists, remove the extension arm
extension arm is even with the track’s access slot. from the track. Remove the cap covering the crank
Pull the arm down and out of the track. Clean the mechanism. Unhinge the pivot arms and unscrew
track with a toothbrush and rag, using a penetrating the crank assembly. Remove it and spray with a
cleaner. Wipe dry and lubricate with white lithium solvent-based cleaner. If the mechanism is worn or
grease. damaged, replace the entire assembly. (Buy new
2. Lubricate the track and hinges with silicone spray cranks through the original manufacturer or at large
lubricant and dry with a rag. Reattach the extension home centers.)
arm. 4. Reattach the crank and lubricate the gears with
white lithium grease. Connect the pivot arms and
slide the extension arm into the frame slot. Check
that the window opens and closes easily before re-
placing the cap.

60 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Patch a Window Screen
TIME: 10 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

There are two types of window screen—aluminum and fiberglass. If you’re replacing the entire screen,
choose fiberglass because it’s easier to work with.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Buy a screen patch kit in a color and material to match the damaged
screen. Cut it big enough to cover the hole or tear. Lay the patch in
• Screen patch kit
place adhesive side down and heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun on
• Heavy-duty scissors
low (some are simple stick-on patches, but heat-activated patches are
• Hair dryer or heat gun
more permanent). Keep the heat source moving until the adhesive is
activated and the patch is bonded.

Re-screen a Window Screen

TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

If your window screen has a large tear or hole, a screen is sagging or has a larger hole or tear, use this process.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Use a screwdriver to pry up the spline and remove the screen. Buy
new screening and replacement spline to match. Buy a screen roll size
• Screwdriver
that will cover the screen with 2" extra on each side.
• Replacement screen
• Replacement spline 2. Unroll the new screen and center over the frame (the side with the
• Scissors or utility knife channel). Cut the screen to size with scissors or a utility knife. Stretch it
• Spline tool taut (this will be easier with a helper).

3. Starting at a corner, press the spline end into the channel. Use a
spline tool to push the spline into the channel rolling steadily along its
length. If the screen wrinkles, stop, pull out some of the spline, and be-
gin again. When done, cut off excess screen around the edges.

1 2 3

Structural Openings 61
 3. Plumbing

Modern plumbing is a key difference between today’s house construction and the
structures built around the turn of the twentieth century. Even so, residential plumbing
relies on basic physics. Household water comes in through a municipal water source
or a well, runs through a water meter and main water valve, and is routed to branch
lines throughout the house. Water to sinks, tubs, and showers goes to through a water
heater. Depending on the type of heating, plumbing may also serve HVAC fixtures.
Individual shutoff valves for each branch allow you to make repairs.

The flip side to water supply is the drain, waste, and

vent (DWV) system. Water drained from sinks, tubs,
and toilets is routed through branch waste lines to
a main waste “stack,” a large-diameter pipe that
carries waste out to the sewer or a septic system.
The vertical waste stack is vented through the roof
to maintain positive pressure. Individual toilets are
often vented as well. All toilets have a trap between
the fixture and waste line, which stops waste and
noxious gasses from backing up into the house.
Maintaining drain pressure is why every drain—ex-
cept in-ground drains—has a trap as well. Those
traps are common spots for clogs.
Plumbing is so essential that repairs are often the
first projects DIYers tackle. Upgrading plumbing
fixtures can also offer big payback; bathroom and
kitchen upgrades consistently rank high for improv-
ing home resale value.

62 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 • Cast iron: Before PVC, cast iron was the most
Water Quality and Pressure
common plumbing pipe. Now, it’s used mostly for
A good place to start building plumbing skills and vertical waste stacks. Repairs to existing cast iron
knowledge is by testing water quality and pressure. plumbing are usually made with PVC pipe. Black
These are less of a concern on municipal systems iron pipes are used exclusively to carry natural gas.
than for a well. In any case, water-quality tests and
• Copper: The two types of copper pipe are rigid,
pressure testers are available at hardware stores and
for cold water supply, and smaller diameter flexible
home centers. The best test kits supply a sample vial
tubes for fixture supply lines.
that is filled from several taps in the house and then
sent to a lab. Water-pressure testers are attached to
an outside water spigot. Turn the water on and read
the tester (good residential pressure is 80 pounds
per square inch).

Pipes and Valves

There are various types of plumbing pipes in a
house. Different materials are used for different
applications, exploiting the best qualities of each
material. Fittings that mate to pipes may be thread-
ed, slip-on, or compression. Code mandates specific
pipes for certain applications, but in much home
plumbing, it’s acceptable to replace something like
copper with another material, such as PEX. Here’s a
quick overview of the materials you’re likely to find
and work with. • Braided metal: These are used specifically to ser-
• PVC: Some of the most common pipe, PVC comes vice individual fixtures such as faucets.
in many diameters. It is durable, easy to work with,
and safe for drinking water. The two basic types
are Schedule 40, used for general plumbing, and
thicker, stiffer Schedule 80, used for high-pressure
lines. CPVC is formulated to carry extremely hot
water. PVC pipes are classed by inside diameter;
CPVC is measured by outside diameter.

• Stainless steel: Both uncoated and coated stainless

steel are used as supply lines for gas appliances.
• PEX: Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is the most
recent development in pipe technology. This can
be used throughout the house to run new lines or
replace old. PEX is durable, easy to work with, and
approved (even mandated) by most local codes.

Plumbing 63
 • Supply lines: Some tubing is used just for supply • Fixture shutoffs: Installed right before individual
to smaller fixtures like faucets or toilets. These fixtures, these allow you to quickly and easily shut
come in preset lengths and are flexible to suit spe- off water supply to repair or replace the fixture.
cific installations. They are easy to install.

Water that flows through pipes must be controlled • Integral shutoffs: Some fixtures, such as shower
with valves. Several kinds give the homeowner controls, have integral shutoffs. These make local-
control over the system and individual fixtures and ized repairs less disruptive to the system (i.e., you
prevent any leak from becoming catastrophic. can still use the toilet while repairing a shower).
• Supply shutoffs: You’ll often find these in base-
ments or crawl spaces or right before large fixtures
such as a water heater. Ball valves allow you to
isolate water supply behind a stretch of pipe that
needs repair.

64 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

SkillBuilder
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

PVC pipe revolutionized residential plumbing. It is nearly indestructible and simple to fabricate.
Learning PVC pipe and fitting basics takes only a few minutes. PVC pipes are marked with the diameter; buy
fittings to match.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure, mark, and cut the pipe. Smaller diameters can be cut with a
miter saw (also called a chop saw); larger diameters are better cut with
• PVC pipe and fittings
a hacksaw and miter box. Use a utility knife or deburring tool to clean
• Tape measure
up cut edges.
• Permanent marker, such
as Sharpie 2. Dry fit pipes and fittings together. “Key” pipes and fittings with
• Power miter saw or marks that allow alignment in final installation so that they wind up in
hacksaw and miter box the proper orientation. Mark fittings and pipe ends and depth of pipe
• Utility knife or PVC insertion so that you can properly prime and cement pipe ends.
deburring tool
3. Prime the inside of the fitting and pipe end. Slide the pipe into the
• PVC primer and cement
fitting mouth and align the key marks. The cement should cure in
about 30 seconds. Pro Tip: There are primer-and-cement combination
products, but many professionals prefer the control of using them
separately.

1 3 3

Plumbing 65
 Install a Hands-Free Faucet
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Hands-free faucets have long been a staple in public restrooms but are
becoming increasingly popular in homes. That’s because they diminish
disease spread and are easy for children and anyone with mobility is-
sues to use. The faucets are available in most styles and finishes and for
the kitchen and the bathroom. Regardless, all use the electrical charge
of your body to complete a solenoid circuit, which turns water on or
off. (It doesn’t matter what part of the body touches.) The installation
takes time but is not technically challenging. Installation is basically the
same for hands-free, motion-sensing faucets.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Unbox the faucet and check that all parts are supplied. Clear out
under the sink and remove any existing faucet (you may need a combi-
• Hands-free faucet and
nation of slip-joint pliers and adjustable wrenches to do this). Clean the
hardware
• Adjustable wrenches sink top and lay down a towel or rags under the work area. Turn off the
• Slip-joint pliers under-sink supply line shutoff valves.
• Flashlight 2. Guide the faucet’s mounting post and supply hookups, along with
the LED wire, through the escutcheon plate (you won’t need this for a
single-hole sink) and then through the central hole (shown detached
for detail).

3. Slide the mounting bracket onto the post, being careful not to crimp
the LED wire or supply lines. Check the manufacturer’s instructions to
ensure the bracket is positioned correctly, with the proper side facing
down.

4. Hand tighten the mounting nut. Check that the faucet body is orient-
ed correctly on top of the sink and that the LED light is facing forward.
Tighten the mounting nut with an adjustable wrench or the wrench
supplied.

5. Push the faucet outlet into the solenoid until it clicks and secure it
with the metal clip provided. Tug on the solenoid to ensure it is secure.

6. Secure the feeder hose into the solenoid and secure it with the snap-
on clip. Touch the cold-water supply or other ground and remove the
cap from the LED wire. Click the prong into the matching hole in the
solenoid.

66 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 2 4

5 6

8 9

7. Slide the solenoid ground wire onto the mounting 8. Close the faucet’s handle and remove the aerator.
post. Tighten the second nut the same way you did Turn on the hot and cold water. Open the faucet and
the first. Insert batteries into the battery pack and let run for one minute. Turn it off and replace the
attach it to a surface following the manufacturer’s aerator. Check for any leaks under the sink.
instructions. Insert the new ferrules and hand tight- 9. Set the touch feature by turning the faucet on to
en the check valves. Connect hot and cold supply the desired temperature. Firmly touch your hand to
lines to the appropriate check valves (marked hot or stop the flow. Tap to turn it on. Test different areas
cold). Hand-tighten, and tighten one rotation more of the body. Motion-sensor faucets should work by
with the wrench. moving the hand near the faucet.

Plumbing 67
 Repair a Pop-up Drain Stopper
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

This particular how-to lies in a

fuzzy gray area between repair
and maintenance. Fixing a sink
stopper isn’t crucial to plumb-
ing function, but it does solve an
everyday annoyance and makes
the bathroom sink more useful.
The repair is a simple one to make
but requires understanding how
the pop-up stopper works (see
cutaway at left).

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Clean out the under-sink area and clear off the sink top. Put a bucket
or pan under the trap. If you’re replacing the tailpiece, loosen the nuts
• Pop-up stopper
on each side of the J-bend using a pipe wrench. Remove the J-bend
replacement kit
and tailpiece retaining nut.
• Bucket or pan
• Slip-joint pliers 2. Disconnect the pivot rod from the drain by loosening the retaining
• Pipe wrench nut on the side of the tailpiece with pliers. Compress the clevis spring
• Thread seal tape, such clip and pull the rod out of the tailpiece.
as Teflon tape
3. Remove the pop-up stopper. Have a helper secure the drain flange
• Plumber’s putty
from the top (jamming rubberized plier handles into the drain is one
• Putty knife or
way, but just holding it may work) and unscrew the tailpiece nut hold-
screwdriver
ing the tailpiece to the flange. Remove the tailpiece and flange.

4. Clean the drain opening and underside of the drain. Thread the lock-
nut onto the flange-end of the tailpiece, followed by the nylon washer
and gasket, with the beveled side up. Wrap the tailpiece threads in seal
tape. Roll a rope of plumber’s putty and wrap it around the top drain
opening and seat the flange into it.

5. Fasten the tailpiece to the flange from under the sink (with the
rod hole facing the clevis), having the helper hold the flange in place.
Tighten the locknut fully with pliers. Use a putty knife or screwdriver to
carefully clean up any putty squeezed out.

6. Drop the new stopper into the drain with its hole or hook oriented to
the tailpiece rod opening. Slide the rod into the opening and position
the nylon washers on either side of the rotation ball, then tighten the
rod nut onto the tailpiece.

68 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 Money Wise
You can purchase pop-up drain parts separately, but you’ll save
money with an all-in-one kit. These range from basic chrome-
coated plastic pieces to high-end machined stainless steel parts,
from $10 to more than $40. Some include the tailpiece replacement
(the instructions to replace it are included below). Others just offer
the drain pieces. However, as functional assemblies go, a sink pop-
up stopper is basic. Beyond appearances, there’s no reason to pay
more than about $15 for a stopper replacement kit.

1 2 4

6 7 8

7. Put the other end of the rod through the spring

front, clevis hole, and spring back. Compress the Pro Tip
spring and slide the clevis in or out to ensure it is
vertical. “Staging” a repair is the practice of neatly laying
out all the tools and parts you’ll need. Getting in
8. Slightly loosen the clevis screw and pull the
this habit makes any DIY project easier, quicker,
stopper rod up. Slip the clevis up the rod as far as it and less frustrating. Arrange everything on a
will go and then tighten the clevis screw. Close the clean cloth, laid out as close to the worksite as
stopper and fill the sink with water to ensure it seals possible.
the drain. Open the stopper and check for any leaks;
tighten it more, if needed.

Plumbing 69
 Repair a Compression Faucet
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Compression faucets are common in older homes. The handle screw

Cap stem compresses a rubber washer when turned off, stopping water
flow. When the washer is damaged, the water flow never entirely stops
Top Screw and the faucet leaks. You can buy a washer replacement (take the
original to ensure a match) or purchase a complete rebuild kit—usually
designated by brand.
Handle

How You Do It
1. Turn off the water supply. Open the handles to drain remaining water.
Valve Cover the drain with a rag. Use a thin-blade screwdriver or utility knife
to pry the handle cap off. Unscrew the handle and remove it. Use an
adjustable wrench to unfasten the stem and pull it out.
Washer
2. Unscrew the stem washer retainer screw and pry out the rubber
Stem washer. Use it to match the replacement. Screw on the replacement.
Screw

3. Replace any O-rings. Apply plumber’s grease to each ring and

rubber washer before reinstalling. Repeat the process with the second
handle (rebuild both handles if you’re doing one). Turn on the water
and test the faucet. Optional: If faucet washers wear out too quickly,
the stem seats may be worn. With the handle disassembled, use a seat
wrench to unscrew the seat and replace it with a new seat.

What You’ll Need

• Rag
• Standard screwdriver or
utility knife
• Phillips screwdriver
• Compression faucet
rebuild kit
• Adjustable wrench
• Plumber’s grease
1 2
• Seat wrench (optional)

3 Optional

70 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Repair a Single-Handle Cartridge Faucet
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Single-handle cartridge faucets are popular not only for the streamlined
look but because they’re easier to operate with one hand than two-
handle versions are. Most single-handle faucets use a cartridge system
like the one in this project. However, cartridge construction and disas-
sembly vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. This project provides
a good baseline, but follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your
faucet.

How You Do It
1. Turn off the water supply and open the handle to drain remaining
water. Cover the drain with a rag. Pry off the handle cap and unscrew
the handle screw. (Some handles are attached with a setscrew; use an
Allen wrench to unscrew.) Use slip-joint pliers or a crescent wrench to
remove the pivot nut.

2. Detach the cartridge retainer nut with a standard screwdriver and

pull out the cartridge with needle-nose pliers. Remove the spout and
remove the existing O-rings on the body. Spread plumber’s grease on
the body before installing new O-rings.

3. Slide the spout back onto the body. Slip the new cartridge down into
the body. Push a new retaining clip into the cartridge. Screw the pivot
nut down and screw the handle to the top of the stem. Pop the cap
back on and test the water.
What You’ll Need

• Rag
• Phillips screwdriver
• Allen wrench (optional)
• Slip-joint pliers or
crescent wrench
• Standard screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Cartridge and O-ring
replacement kit
1 2
• Plumber’s grease

Pro Tip
During cartridge removal, older units may break and leave a por-
tion of the stem in the body. This is easily fixed with an inexpensive
stem puller, available in home center plumbing aisles. The puller is
plunged down into the fragment and then pulled out.

Plumbing 71
 Repair a Washerless Two-Handle Faucet
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Newer washerless faucets have replaced older compression styles. Instead of a stem and washer, the faucet
handles contain cartridges. The cartridges hold discs. The disc materials vary, but all are repaired in the
same way.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the water supply. Cover the drain with a rag. Unscrew the
handle setscrew with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. Unscrew
• Rags
and remove the stem screw. Remove the retaining nut using an adjust-
• Allen wrench
able wrench.
• Phillips screwdriver
• Adjustable wrench 2. Note the cartridge’s orientation. Remove it. Repeat with the second
• Replacement cartridge handle. Take the cartridges to the store to match new.
• Plumber’s grease 3. Clean the valve seat with a rag. Coat the seat and cartridge O-rings
with plumber’s grease. Secure the new cartridge in place, matching the
original’s orientation and with the tabs in the body slots.

4. Reinstall the retaining nut, stem screw, and handle. Run the faucet
and check for leaks. Repeat with the second handle.

72 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Repair a Ball Faucet
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Ball faucets were the earliest type of washerless design and remain popular for their simple, single-handle
look. A rotating ball covers or exposes openings in the valve, allowing water to flow from different supply
lines depending on where you move the handle. Springs keep the openings closed, and worn springs or rub-
ber seats are the most common cause of leaks. Repair one of these faucets with an inexpensive rebuild kit
widely available at home centers.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need 1. Turn off the water supply. Open the faucet to empty remaining water.
Cover the drain with a rag. Unscrew the handle setscrew with an Allen
• Rags and a towel wrench. Remove the handle and unscrew the ball cap (this may require
• Allen wrench slip-joint pliers or a special tool, depending on faucet). Remove the
• Standard screwdriver spout body.
• Slip-joint pliers 2. Lift out the cam washer and ball. Pop out the rubber valve seats
• Plumber’s grease and springs with a screwdriver. Wrap a towel around the faucet body
and turn the water on for a few seconds to flush the valve seat. Dry
everything.

3. Coat the O-rings with plumber’s grease and slip them onto the body.
Set the new springs in their holes. Push new rubber valve seats down
into the holes (rounded lip facing up).

4. Install the ball, place the cam washer over it, and snug into place.
Slip on the body and hand tighten the ball cap. Reattach the handle,
tightening the setscrew just until secure. Turn on the water and run the
faucet. Turn it off and check for leaks.

1 2

Plumbing 73
 Install a Centerset Faucet
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

These are the most common and least expensive “lavatory faucet”
(bathroom faucets). Centerset faucets have a central body on which
two handles are mounted. Hot and cold water supplies are hooked up
to their respective handles—traditionally hot on left, cold on right.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the water supplies. Open both faucet handles to drain re-
maining water. Cover the drain with a rag. Clear out under the sink. Dis-
• Rag
connect the pop-up stopper clevis from the drain pull, under the sink.
• Crescent wrench
• Basin wrench 2. Use a crescent wrench to loosen the supply connections at the han-
• Putty knife dles. Use a basin wrench to remove the nuts holding the faucet to the
• Denatured alcohol sink. Lift off the faucet and clean the sink deck using a putty knife and
• Plumber’s putty wiping with denatured alcohol.
or silicone sealant
3. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations to prepare the faucet base.
(optional)
Some recommend using the base gasket without sealant. Many people
• Thread seal tape, such
still lay a bead of silicone sealant between faucet and sink. Some pros
as Teflon tape
discard the base gasket and pack the faucet’s underside with plumber’s
putty. This is usually overkill. Regardless, don’t use plumber’s putty on
cultured marble or composite surfaces; the putty can permanently stain
those surfaces.

4. Set the faucet in place. Hand tighten the basin nuts and adjust the
faucet position. Fully tighten the nuts with a basin wrench from under-
neath. Wrap the handle posts with seal tape and reconnect the water
supply lines. Reconnect the drain pull to the clevis.
5. Remove the faucet’s aerator and run the water for a minute. Check
for leaks. Reinstall the aerator.

74 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

1 3

Money Wise
Centerset faucets are sold according to the space between han-
dles, measured on center. The most common is 4", but measure
your sink. Sizes vary, up to 12". Widespread faucets have a minimum
spread but can adapt to a range of widths. Keep in mind that shiny
faucet surfaces like chrome show soap scum and fingerprints more
than matte surfaces do. However, it’s visually pleasing to match
other fixtures, such as the shower handles and towel bars.

Plumbing 75
 Install a Widespread Faucet
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Widespread faucets don’t have a base, so they fit regardless of hole

spacing. The look is sleeker than a centerset faucet and just as easy to
install. This project will be easier with a helper.

How You Do It
1. Turn off the water supply. Clean out under the sink. Remove any
existing faucet and clean the sink deck. Roll a thin rope of plumber’s
putty and place it around each sink deck hole. On cultured marble or
composite sinks, use silicone sealant caulk instead, but follow manufac-
turer’s recommendations.

2. Slip a handle tailpiece into the deck hole, orienting the handle
What You’ll Need correctly. Thread the retainer nut onto the tailpiece and hand tighten.
Check that the handle remains in the proper position. Tighten the nut
• Widespread faucet to secure the handle. Repeat with the opposite handle.
• Plumber’s putty or 3. Screw the spout mounting nut onto the tailpiece and hand tighten.
silicone sealant caulk
Check that the faucet is oriented correctly, then fully tighten the nut
• Phillips screwdriver
with a basin wrench from underneath.
• Basin wrench
• Thread seal tape, such 4. Connect the supply lines from handles to spout by pushing each
as Teflon tape connection onto the valve and hand tightening the nut. Secure each
• Crescent wrench connection by fully tightening the nut with a crescent wrench.

5. Wrap the hot-water supply line threads with seal tape and screw
the connection to the left (as you face the sink) handle supply hook-
up. Tighten the connection with a crescent wrench. Repeat with the
cold-water connection.

6. Attach the pop-up stopper clevis to the faucet drain rod (use a new
clevis if one is supplied). Turn the water back on and remove the faucet
aerator. Run the water for a minute, or until it runs clear. Turn it off and
replace the aerator. Check all the connections for leaks. Tighten where
necessary.

2 3

76 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Replace a Leaking Sprayer Head
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

A kitchen sink sprayer is handy for washing dishes but wears out
quicker than the faucet does. Rather than replace the entire assembly,
you can purchase a replacement head online or at home centers.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the water supply. Open the faucet to drain remaining water.
Unscrew the sprayer head base nut. (This is usually a ridged retain-
• Replacement sprayer
ing nut between the sprayer hose and head and can be unscrewed by
head
hand.) If it is stubborn, use slip-joint pliers.
• Slip-joint pliers
(optional) 2. Remove the washer on top of the spray head base. Use needle-nose
• Needle-nose pliers pliers to spread the metal C-clip holding the base to the hose. Pull off
the C-clip and remove the base.

3. Take the head with you to the store to match. You may need to disas-
semble the new head for installation. Slide the new base onto the spray
hose and secure it with the new C-clip. Attach the head with the new
mounting nut, hand tightening it. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

1 2 3

Plumbing 77
 Install a Water Softener
TIME: 3 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Hard water—water containing high concentrations of calcium, magne-

sium, and other minerals—is a problem in some parts of the country.
Excess minerals lead to stubborn soap scum and hard, calcified buildup
on showerheads and in faucet aerators. The minerals also cause white
clothes to come out of the wash dingier than normal and can diminish
soap and shampoo foaming. A water softener is the traditional solu-
tion. The system uses rock salt, which breaks down and binds with
the minerals and is then captured by electrically charged resin beads.
The minerals are flushed out a drain. The salt must be refilled every
month. Most homeowners feel that is a small price to pay for improved
water quality. Installing a water softener is a good project on which
to practice plumbing skills. The installation here uses traditional cop-
per plumbing, but you can use PVC or PEX. Just check that your local
codes allow those materials. Although this is a good overview, different
softeners may require different installation steps; follow the manufac-
turer’s instructions.

Some municipalities require bypass valves and plumbing

so that the water softener can effectively be cut out of the
water supply flow . This ensures water supply even if the
softener malfunctions .

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Unbox the system and lay out (“stage”) the components where they
will be installed. The softener should be installed as close as possible
• Water softener
to where the water main comes into the house and before the water
• Tape measure
heater. Shut off the main water supply valve.
• Tubing cutter
• Lead-free solder 2. Install the bypass port in the softener head by clipping the port into
• Propane torch the inlet and outlet ports and tightening down the couplings. Attach
• Slip-joint pliers or the overflow tube on the side of the softener.
crescent wrench 3. With the softener in place, measure the distance from the bypass
• Pipe wrench
port to the water supply line. Cut copper pipe to this length with a
• Steel wool
tubing cutter. Solder threaded fittings on one end of each pipe for
• Soldering paste (flux)
connection to the softener’s bypass valves (see page 92 for soldering
• Bonding clamp
instruction). Use two wrenches or pliers to tighten the pipes onto the
(optional)
bypass inlet and outlet ports. Don’t overtighten.

78 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 3

4 5

6 7

4. Cut the water supply pipe as necessary. Solder the the overflow hose and discharge tube together
elbow or other fittings on the opposite ends of the and route to a floor drain or utility sink. The hoses
copper risers and solder the open side of each fitting should be secured in place at least 1 1⁄2" above the
to the supply pipe. (Be sure to thoroughly clean drain.
pipes and fittings with steel wool before soldering.) 7. Turn on the water main with the softener valve in
5. Maintain electrical bonding by connecting the bypass position. Open the valve and purge air ac-
copper lines with a bonding clamp. cording to the manufacturer’s directions. Check for

6. Clamp the discharge tube to the softener valve leaks and proper flow. Add salt to the tank (in this

according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Tie case, stacked on top of the resin bead unit in a single
construction).

Plumbing 79
 Install a Pedestal Sink
TIME: 90 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

The pedestal sink has long been the fixture of choice for powder rooms
and bathrooms where space is limited. They have a tiny footprint and
come in a range of styles and colors. These are also less expensive than
many other sinks and easy to install. There are subtle differences be-
tween the way different pedestal sinks are supported. Understand the
mounting method before you purchase any new pedestal sink. Some
are bolted to the wall, with the pedestal just covering the tailpiece and
plumbing. The sink in this project requires firm wall support, including
blocking between studs. Others are anchored to the wall but use the
pedestal as a primary support. Regardless, proper support is essential
to avoid sink breakage and injury.

What You’ll Need How You Do It

1. Turn off the water supplies. Remove any old sink and vanity, including
• Crescent wrench
the tailpiece and supply tubes, using a crescent wrench, socket wrench,
• Socket wrench set
(optional) and screwdrivers as necessary. Determine the location of the sink at-
• Screwdrivers (optional) tachment holes and cut an opening in the drywall. Screw 2×4 blocking
• Pedestal sink horizontally between two studs (not all sinks require this). Patch the
• Stud finder drywall hole (see page 128 for the process).
• Drywall saw
• Drywall
• Drywall tape
• Drywall compound
• Sandpaper or sanding
block
• 2×4 scrap
• Carpenter’s level
• Grease pencil or
carpenter’s pencil
• Tape measure
• Power drill and bits
• Socket wrench set
• Caulk gun
• Silicone sealant

80 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

2 3

2. Place the sink and pedestal in position and brace

them with scrap 2×4s. Check the sink for level and
the pedestal for plumb. Mark the sink back posi-
tion on the wall, including mounting holes. Mark the
pedestal position on the floor, including any fastener
hole.

3. Remove the sink and pedestal. Drill pilot holes

for the mounting hardware. Place the pedestal back
in line with the reference marks and use a socket
wrench to secure the pedestal to the floor with a lag
screw. (Some pedestals do not require this; follow
the manufacturer’s directions.)

4. Fasten the faucet to the sink. Set the sink in place

4
against the wall on top of the pedestal. Align the
mounting holes with the pilot holes. Drive lag screws
through washers and into the wall, using a socket
wrench.

5. Connect the pop-up stopper clevis to the rod.

Hook up the water supply tubes and the drain P-trap.
Caulk the seam between the sink and the wall with
silicone sealant. Remove the faucet’s aerator, turn on
the water supply, and run the water for a minute or
until it runs clear. Replace the aerator and check for
leaks.

Plumbing 81
 Unclog a Sink
TIME: 10 minutes (depending on severity of clog) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Almost every homeowner faces a clogged sink eventually. A lot of debris finds its way down the drain, and
inevitably some of it sticks inside the drain pipe. A clog only gathers material and becomes worse over time.
There are many simple solutions; use the one that works best for your situation.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Start with the most basic strategy—plunging. For a kitchen sink with
a dishwasher, stop the dishwasher line from releasing pressure as you
• C-clamp and shims
plunge. Use a C-clamp and shims to crimp the dishwasher drain hose.
• Rag
• Plunger 2. Fill the sink with a few inches of water. If there is a second bowl,
• Bucket stuff a wet rag into the drain, or plug it. Plunge the drain vigorously.
• Slip-joint pliers or large Optional: For a bathroom sink, stick a wet rag into any overflow hole
crescent wrench and remove the pop-up stopper. Plunge the drain until the clog either
• Phillips screwdriver comes up or clears.
• Flashlight 3. Where plunging doesn’t clear the clog, place a bucket under the
• Hand-cranked or drill- P-trap. Use slip-joint pliers or a large crescent wrench to loosen the slip
powered auger nuts on the tailpiece and drain line. Unscrew the nuts completely and
• Wire brush or a probe remove the trap.

4. Clear out the clog, using a wire brush or a probe. Reinstall the trap
and tighten the slip nuts.

5. On a double-bowl sink, you may need to clear clogs beyond the trap.
Put a bucket under the trap, loosen the slip nuts, and remove the trap.
Clear the T fitting that connects the sink drains. Snake the drain line to
the main waste vent.

6. Remove the wall trap arm. Use a flashlight to check inside the hole to
see if there is any visible water. If so, clear the clog with a hand-cranked
or drill-powered auger.

82 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

1 2

3 4

5 6

Plumbing 83
 Adjust Shower Temperature and Tune Up
the Showerhead
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

The morning shower is an essential daily ritual for many people. Controlling temperature and flow make that
ritual as enjoyable as possible. Modern shower controls are constructed with a simple device that stops the
handle to limit the temperature. Some homeowners prefer hotter water. Changing the temperature limit is
simple. It’s also easy to clean or repair a showerhead to maintain the full force of the spray.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Remove the shower handle. Knobs are unscrewed after popping the
cap off; handle or lever controls are usually removed by unscrewing a
• Standard screwdriver or
setscrew on the handle using an Allen wrench.
Allen wrench
• Phillips screwdriver 2. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the handle control assembly.
• Crescent wrench Pull out the limiter gasket—similar to the white plastic piece shown.
• Painter’s tape This will have notches or teeth. Turn the gasket clockwise and push
• Thin wire it in. Screw on the control assembly and check that the water is hot
• Thread seal tape, such enough. Adjust if not. Replace the handle.
as Teflon tape
3. Remove the showerhead with a crescent wrench (line the jaws with
painter’s tape to avoid marring showerhead finish). Submerge it in a
half-and-half solution of white vinegar and hot water, with a few drops
of dish soap.

4. Clean the showerhead’s outlet and inlet holes with thin wire. Flush
the head with hot water. Replace a worn or damaged O-ring. Wrap the
head arm threads with seal tape and hand tighten the showerhead.

2 3 4

84 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Repair a Bathtub Pop-up Drain Plug
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Bathtub drain plugs are common DIY projects because they have a
tendency to break. Simple in concept, the design is plagued by weak
points. Fixing one allows you to fully enjoy a bath.

How You Do It
1. Flip the lever to raise the stopper. Pull the stopper and rocker out of
the drain. Clean the assembly, using white vinegar and a wire brush to
remove any mineral deposits.

2. Unscrew the cover plate and pull the lever and linkage out of the
What You’ll Need hole. Clean the lever and the linkage as you did the stopper and rocker
arm. Check for damaged or broken parts. Replace as necessary (re-
• White vinegar placements can be found at plumbing supply stores). Coat the parts
• Wire brush with plumber’s grease.
• Phillips screwdriver 3. Reinstall the linkage and cover plate, and the rocker arm and stopper.
• Plumber’s grease Check if the stopper opens and closes completely. If not, remove the
linkage and loosen the locknut on and adjuster and screw the lift rod in
or out. Test the fit and adjust the lift rod until the stopper works cor-
rectly. Screw the cover plate in place.

1 2 3

Plumbing 85
 Install Sliding Tub Doors
TIME: 2 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Shower curtains contain shower spray but are not an elegant option. A
more upscale look, sliding tub doors are an achievable project for the
home DIYer with a weekend to spare. The many tub door styles and
finishes of tub doors provide the opportunity to add flair to a bathroom
and even increase home resale value (kitchen and bathroom upgrades
are historically some of the biggest return-on-investment projects
when it comes time to sell).

How You Do It
1. Remove the shower rod and curtain. Clean the tub surround and tub
lip. Check the wall for plumb. Check the tub ledge for level.

2. Measure across the ledge to determine the distance between the two
mounting walls. The correct door track length is normally about 1⁄4" less
than this measurement. (Check the manufacturer’s directions.) Use a
hacksaw and miter box to cut the track to length. Center the track both
What You’ll Need ways on the tub ledge with the taller side to the front. Tape the track in
place.
• Level
3. Position one door channel against a wall, with the higher side to
• Tape measure
the front. Slide it down over the horizontal track so that they overlap.
• Hacksaw
• Miter box
Check the channel for plumb and mark mounting hole locations. Re-
• Masking tape peat on the opposite wall with the second track.
• Marker 4. Drill pilot holes at the marked locations. (If mounting on ceramic
• Power drill and bits tile, set the drill by using a center punch at the marks and then use a 1⁄4"
• Masonry bit (optional) masonry bit. Push in wall anchors for the screws.) If you’re mounting on
• Caulk gun a fiberglass tub surround, use a 1⁄8" drill bit for the pilot holes.
• Silicone sealant
5. Lay a bead of silicone sealant along the bottom of the tub ledge
• Phillips screwdriver
channel and dab sealant at each end of the ledge. Set the track in
place. Screw the wall channels to the walls with the screws provided.

6. Measure the distance between the walls from the top of one channel
to the top of the opposite channel. Subtract 1⁄4" or the distance specified
in the instructions. Use the hacksaw and miter box to cut the header to
length. Slide each end of the header into the top of the wall channels.
Check that it is level.

86 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 1 3 4

5 6 7

7. Screw the rollers to the doors through the mount- 8. Lift the outer door into position with the towel bar
ing holes. Tilt the inner door toward the shower. Set facing out. Slide the rollers into the track and push
the rollers on the bottom inner track. Slide the door the door to the back of the shower. Check the bum-
to the showerhead wall. If the bumpers don’t touch pers and adjust the rollers as necessary.
the wall channel, remove the door and adjust the 9. Apply a bead of silicone sealant along the inside
rollers. seam between the walls and channels, and at the
corners where the channels meet the bottom track.
Allow the sealant to cure before using the shower.

Plumbing 87
 Regrout a Tiled Surface
TIME: 1 hour (depending on size of surface) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Tile grout serves a cosmetic and functional value. It can match tile color
so that gaps visually disappear, or it can contrast to create a striking
visual. More importantly, grout seals the surface from water infiltration
that can cause rot, mold, and other problems. That’s why it’s important
to remove and replace compromised caulk. Technically, this is simple,
but it takes time and effort. You’ll use a saw but can opt for a rotary
tool equipped with the correct attachment.

How You Do It
1. Clean the surface. Remove tub spout and handles and the shower-
head escutcheon (if working in a bathroom). Line the floor with plastic
sheeting and block off the room with a plastic sheet curtain. Cover any
drain with a rag. Open a window and wear a dust mask and eye protec-
tion.
What You’ll Need 2. Starting at the top and doing vertical lines first, clean out grout lines
with a grout saw or rotary tool. Remove the grout down to the base of
• Rags the tile. Be careful not to chip tile.
• Plastic sheeting
3. Clean dust off the tile with a wet rag. Open the premixed grout and
• Painter’s tape
scoop a small amount onto the grout spreader or a putty knife. (For
• Dust mask
powdered grout, only mix what you’ll use in 20 minutes.) Spread the
• Eye protection
grout across the tiles, forcing it into the joints. Optional: If you’ve grout-
• Grout saw or rotary tool
ed tile before or are grouting a large surface, use a grout float instead
and attachments
• Premixed, wet-use, anti-
of a spreader.
mold grout 4. After all the joints have been grouted, clean the tile with a moist
• Grout spreader or float sponge. Be careful not to pull grout out of the joints.
• Putty knife or trowel
5. Allow the grout to harden for 30 minutes. Pull a grout finisher’s ball
• Grout finisher
end lightly down or across each joint. Let the grout harden for 8 hours.
• Sponge
Polish the tile surface with a soft, clean cloth.

2 3

88 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Recaulk a Bathtub
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Caulk wears out over time and should be replaced. This is especially important around the tub because bath-
room seams are points for water infiltration. Never caulk over old caulk; the surface needs to be as clean as
possible.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need

• Drop cloth or plastic

sheeting
• Utility knife or 3-in-1
caulk tool
• Rag
• Rubbing alcohol
• Painter’s tape
• Silicone bath caulk 1 2
• Caulk gun

4 5

1. Line the tub with a drop cloth or plastic sheeting. 4. Lay any vertical beads first. Work from the top
Use a utility knife or a caulk removing tool to remove and move slowly and steadily, keeping the caulk gun
the old caulk. Scrape up any residue and wipe down level and bending at the knees.
all surfaces with a rag moistened with rubbing 5. Moisten your index finger and gently smooth the
alcohol. bead from top to bottom. Repeat the process with
2. Carefully line both sides of the tub joint with horizontal beads. As soon as you’re finished, grab
painter’s tape. The tape edges should be roughly one end of the tape along the first bead, and steadily
⁄4" from the wall on the tub’s lip and about a ⁄4" up
1 1
pull it away from the surface. Repeat with the rest of
the wall from the tub. the tape. Let the caulk cure for at least 30 minutes
3. Cut the end off the caulk tube with the caulk gun’s and don’t use the bath or shower for at least
built-in tip cutter (the hole in the handle’s side) or a 24 hours.
utility knife. Use a nail or the gun’s wire to break the
cartridge seal.

Plumbing 89
 Maintain a Water Heater
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

A water heater is not only essential for everything from luxurious, long
showers to washing your clothes and dishes; it is also an extremely
pricey fixture to replace. Save money and a whole lot of frustration by
taking simple steps to extend the life of the appliance and head off
malfunctions and problems.

How You Do It
1. Shut off power to the water heater at the breaker box or shut off the
gas supply to a gas heater. Close the water inlet shutoff valve.

2. Test the temperature-pressure relief (TPR) valve. (Some are plumbed

into the tank side, while others are connected by a pipe.) Put a bucket
under the drainpipe and open the valve momentarily, letting the tab flip
closed. If water comes out after the valve is closed, it’s compromised.
Use a pipe wrench to remove it and buy a new one to match. Wrap the
new valve’s threads with seal tape and install it, tightening it with the
pipe wrench.

3. Check the anode rod. Drain 2 gallons from the tank. Remove any cap
over the anode rod, and cut out any insulation. Use a socket wrench
with a 1 1⁄16" socket to unscrew the rod. Pull it out and check the thick-
ness. If it’s less than 1⁄2" thick, replace it. Wrap the replacement’s threads
with seal tape and install it. Tighten down the nut, cover with insulation
if appropriate, and reinstall the cap, if any.
What You’ll Need
4. Drain water heater sediment once a year by attaching a hose to the
drain valve bib at the bottom of the tank. Route the hose to a drain or
• TPR valve
bucket. Drain all the water. Close the bib, open the cold-water shutoff,
• Bucket
fill the heater partway, and drain. Repeat until the water runs clear.
• Pipe wrench
• Thread seal tape, such
as Teflon tape
• Anode rod (optional)
• Utility knife (optional)
• Socket wrench and
1 1⁄16
16" socket

• Garden hose

2 4

90 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Repair a Leaking Shutoff Valve
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Shutoff valves are essential gatekeepers for home plumbing. They are simple and, for the most part, trouble
free. But the gaskets that create a tight seal inside the valve can deteriorate and leak. You can cut the valve
out of the water line and splice in a new one, but there is an easier way.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the main water valve. Put a bucket
under the leaking shutoff valve. Use a cres-
• Bucket
cent wrench to unfasten the packing nut (the
• Crescent wrench
one closest to the handle), turning it counter-
• PTFE valve packing,
such as Teflon clockwise.
1
2. Check the packing washer. Remove any
pieces that remain and clean the packing nut
threads.

3. Cut a short length of valve packing and

push it into the nut from the pipe side, wind-
ing it around the threads. Tighten down the
packing nut with the crescent wrench.

Patch a Leaking Pipe 3

TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

This is a simple fix for a surprise leak you don’t have the time or opportunity to deal with immediately. Keep
these supplies on hand to deal with an emergency leak.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the nearest water supply shutoff
before the leaking area. Open faucets to
• Rags
drain remaining water. Clean the pipe and dry
• Rubbing alcohol
around the leak with a clean cloth.
• Latex gloves
• Epoxy putty 2. Wipe the damaged pipe with a rag soaked
with rubbing alcohol. Wearing latex gloves,
pinch off a short piece of epoxy putty and
knead it until the two colors blend completely.

3. Flatten the putty in a patch around the 2

damaged area. The putty should be about 1⁄2" thick. Flatten out the edg-
es to ensure the putty is sealing against the pipe all the way around.
Wait for the putty to cure according to the manufacturer’s recommen-
dations and turn the water supply on.

Plumbing 91
 Replace a Section of Copper Pipe
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Although you can replace damaged copper plumbing with PEX, many
pros still prefer to swap copper for copper. The process is simple, but it
takes a bit of finesse. The soldering skill you’ll learn will come in handy
for many household projects.

How You Do It
1. Turn off the water supply to the pipe. Mark end points for a section
slightly larger than the damaged area. Slide the tubing cutter onto the
pipe. Tighten until both rollers contact the pipe. Turn the cutter one
rotation to score the cut line all the way around. Rotate in the opposite
direction, tightening every two rotations until the pipe is cut through.

2. Dry fit couplings on the cut pipe ends. Measure from the coupling
insets on both sides; this is the new pipe’s length. Cut pipe to match.
Rough up the outside of each cut end and the inside of each coupling,
What You’ll Need using emery cloth.

3. Brush a thin layer of flux on the cut pipe ends and inside the cou-
• Tubing cutter or
plings. Slip a coupling onto the end of an existing pipe and rotate the
hacksaw
coupling to spread the flux. Wipe away excess with a rag. Slide one end
• Emery cloth
• Soldering paste (flux) of the new pipe into the coupling and twist. Repeat on the opposite end.
• Flux brush 4. Unspool about 8" of lead-free solder and bend the end to create a 2"
• Rag angled section. Open the gas on the torch and spark the flame. Adjust
• Lead-free solder for a blue flame 2" long.
• Propane torch
5. Move the flame over a joint, heating the coupling and pipe on both
• Fiber shield or sheet
sides. (If this is near wood or flammable material, use a protective sheet
metal (optional)
metal or fiber shield.) Heat all around.

6. Touch the tip of the solder to a seam between coupling and pipe.
The solder should wick into the seam. Lay an even solder bead all
around. Repeat on the opposite seam and the other end. Allow the
joints to cool before turning the water supply on.

1 3 6

92 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Fabricate with PEX Pipe
PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) pipe is a flexible alternative to copper,
PVC, and other pipe materials. Used widely throughout Europe since
the late 1960s, PEX has only been accepted and integrated into Amer-
ican plumbing systems for about two decades. Its popularity is driven
by a combination of durability, flexibility, relatively low cost, and ease
of fabrication. PEX can be run around corners and in other situations
where rigid materials would require extensive fabrication. PEX can also
be spliced onto almost any other type of pipe. Two types are used in
the home: PEX-A and PEX-B. PEX-A is more expensive and better qual-
ity and is used with expansion fittings. PEX-B is used with handy crimp
fittings. Neither should be exposed to excessive sunlight or chlorine,
and they shouldn’t be used together.
A coil of PEX pipe .
PEX is available in white, blue, and red; but the color doesn’t affect
price or application. It’s sold in both spools and preset lengths and is
available in diameters from 1⁄4" to 1". Be aware that not all local codes allow PEX for every application. For
instance, PEX cannot be directly connected to a water heater; there has be to at least 18" of metal connector
tubes before it is used. Check local codes.

Attach a PEX Pinch Connection

TIME: 5 minutes (per pipe) / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Pinch connections are one “crimping” style to prepare PEX pipe ends for a connection. Modern stainless
steel barb pinch clamps make connections easy even in cramped spaces.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need

• PEX pipe
• Tape measure
• Marker
• Tubing cutter
• PEX quick-cinch clamp
tool
• Stainless steel barb
pinch clamps

1. Measure, mark, and cut the pipe using a tubing cutter.

(continued) 

Plumbing 93
 2 3

4 5

2. Check the ratcheting action on your clamp tool by 4. Insert the fitting into the pipe end. Adjust the
unlocking it with the release button. clamp to be perfectly parallel to the cut end, with
3. Slip a barb pinch clamp over one cut end. Grab a 1⁄8" gap between the pipe end and the clamp front
the tab on the clamp with the jaws of the tool and edge. Pinch the clamp tab several times to tighten it

tighten it just so the clamp won’t slide but is not fully until the fitting is secure. Release the tool.

crimped. 5. Correct mistakes by slipping the clamp tab into

a pinch clamp removal tool. Twist the tool back and
forth until the clamp snaps and can be removed.

94 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Replace Flapper Valve and Reset Tank
Water Level
TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

When solving DIY problems—in plumbing or other areas—it’s wisest to

start with the most obvious and simple fix. A toilet that constantly runs,
starts running for no reason, or takes too long for the tank to fill can be
a basic issue. Start with the flapper valve and the water level in the tank.
(Some modern toilets don’t have a plunger valve instead of a flapper valve.
These require wholesale entire assembly replacement when they fail.)

How You Do It
1. Turn off the toilet water supply. Flush to remove all tank water.
Sponge out remaining water. Unhook the chain from the flapper. Unfas-
ten the flapper’s ears from the flush valve body, and remove the flapper.

2. Clean the flapper seat. Take the old flapper with you and purchase a
What You’ll Need
flapper that matches. Hook the new flapper’s ears onto the flush valve
hooks and connect the chain.
• Sponge
• Flapper valve 3. Turn the water on and let the tank fill. Flush the toilet. Check that
• Phillips screwdriver the flapper is sealing properly. Adjust the chain length as necessary to
• Needle-nose pliers ensure proper flapper operation.

4. A running toilet indicates the “critical level” for the float or cup is mis-
adjusted. Adjust the water level for a ball float by bending the bar down
bit by bit. Check after each modification to see if the problem is fixed.

5. Float cups have largely replaced float balls. Lower the water level by
compressing the spring clip on the cup’s side, using needle-nose pliers.
Move the clip and cup up the rod a bit at a time, until the problem is
resolved.

6. Some fill valves are controlled by a diaphragm. Turn the adjustment

screw on top clockwise to lower the water level and counterclockwise
to raise it.

4 5 6

Plumbing 95
 Replace a Toilet Fill Valve
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Your toilet flushes thanks to two valves: a flush valve and a fill valve.
Replacing a fill valve is the easier project. A defective fill valve has obvi-
ous symptoms. If the flush is weak, the tank takes an inordinate amount
of time to fill, or it runs constantly, you most likely need a new fill valve.
Fill tube

Fill
valve

Mounting Flush
bolts valve

Flapper

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Shut off the water supply. Flush to empty the tank and sponge out
remaining water. Put a small bucket or pan under the supply tube and
• Sponge
disconnect it from the tank.
• Small bucket or pan
• Slip-joint pliers 2. Loosen and remove the fill valve mounting nut on the underside of
• Fill valve kit the tank. (Use slip-joint pliers to secure the valve inside the tank and
• Needle-nose pliers stop it from spinning.) If you’re removing an old ball cock valve, remove
the float at the same time.

3. Slip the washer on the fill valve shank and slide the shank down into
the tank hole. Check that the critical level (marked as “CL” on the valve)
mark is at least 1" above the overflow tube. If not, adjust the level of
the valve according to the manufacturer’s instructions (usually involves
holding the base and turning the valve post).

4. Push down on the fill valve’s shank to seat it properly and hand tight-
en the locknut. Use slip-joint pliers to turn a quarter turn more. Hook up
the water supply tube and tighten it the same way.

5. Remove any cap on the overflow pipe. Attach the refill tube to the
fill valve and secure the opposite end right above—not inside of—the
overflow tube (there is usually a bracket for this). Cut off any excess.

6. Turn on the water supply. Adjust the water level by compressing the
spring clip on the float cup with needle-nose pliers and moving it up
or down. (Some models have different control mechanisms; follow the
manufacturer’s instructions.) Flush and check for leaks. Tighten fittings
where necessary.

96 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

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3 4

5 6

Plumbing 97
 Replace a Flush Valve
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

A toilet’s flush valve is just what it sounds like: a valve controlling the amount and force of water going into
the bowl. Malfunctioning flush valves can cause the flush to last too long or go too short, can leak in the
connection between tank and bowl, or just simply may not flush at all. The replacement process isn’t techni-
cally challenging. Leave enough time for the entire project so that the toilet is out of commission as briefly
as possible.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the water supply. Flush to empty the tank and sponge out
remaining water. Unfasten the water line connection from the tank,
• Sponge
using slip-joint pliers.
• Slip-joint pliers
• Large standard 2. Unscrew the bolts holding tank to bowl, from underneath. Use slip-
screwdriver joint pliers and a large standard screwdriver to stop bolts from turning.
• Penetrating lubricant If the bolts are rusty, spray top and bottom with penetrating oil. As a
spray last resort, cut the bolts with a hacksaw, sliding it in the seam between
• Hacksaw (optional) tank and bowl.
• Spud wrench
3. Unhook the handle arm and lift the tank off the bowl. Set it upside
• Flush valve kit
down on a clean, level surface with a towel underneath. Pull off the
• Crescent or box wrench
spud washer and use a spud wrench to unfasten the spud from the
• Level
base (inexpensive plastic spud wrenches are available from home cen-
ters). Flip the tank and remove the existing flush valve.

4. Slide the new flush valve into the tank and measure to see if the top
of the overflow tube is at least 1" below the fill valve’s critical level mark.
If the overflow tube is too long, trim it with a hacksaw.

5. Fasten the flush valve in place with the spud nut, by tightening it a
quarter turn past hand-tight using the spud wrench. Replace the spud
washer with a new one and install with the narrower side out so it sits
correctly in the toilet bowl hole.

6. Gently lay the tank on its back and secure the mounting bolts by
sliding each on through a rubber washer and then tightening the nuts
on the other side over a brass washer. Tighten them a quarter turn past
hand-tight with a crescent or box wrench.

7. Carefully set the tank in place on the bowl, seating the spud wash-
er in the bowl hole, with the bolts down through the mounting holes
(this will be much easier with a helper). Fasten the tank to the bowl by
securing a bolt over brass and rubber washers using slip-joint pliers.
Check the tank for level before completely tightening the tank down in
place (being careful not to crack the bowl or tank).

98 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 2 3

4 6

8. Install the flapper and connect the chain clip to

the lever arm. Adjust the chain to have a little slack
when the flapper is closed (leave a small tail of chain
for future adjustments). Attach the refill tube to the
overflow pipe and turn on the water. Flush and check
for leaks.

Plumbing 99
 Replace a Wax Ring
TIME: 90 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Toilets are miracles of modern plumbing, but toilet leaks can be the stuff of homeowners’ nightmares. This
project deals with a not-rare but not-common problem of a compromised wax ring. The wax ring lines the
opening that carries waste out and to the main vertical waste stack. However, this same process is used to
replace a failed toilet flange (the PVC piece directly under the wax ring; when damaged, it causes toilet
rocking and leakage). Use these steps for replacing a toilet.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Clean the toilet in and out. Turn off the water supply and flush the
toilet to empty the tank. Sponge out remaining water.
• Sponge
• Slip-joint pliers 2. Use slip-joint pliers to unscrew the water supply connection at the
• Crescent wrench or box tank. Hold one of the nuts securing tank to toilet, using a crescent
wrench (optional) wrench, box wrench, or pliers (whichever works best for your toilet).
• Large standard Loosen the bolt from inside the tank (usually a slotted screwhead),
screwdriver using a large standard screwdriver. Use penetrating oil on stubborn
• Penetrating oil bolts and nuts. As a last resort, use a hacksaw to cut the bolt along the
(optional) seam between tank and toilet. Repeat with the second bolt. Remove
• Hacksaw (optional) the tank.
• Socket wrench and
sockets 3. Remove the cap over the toilet floor bolts. Use a socket wrench to
• Putty knife remove the retaining nut (soak a stubborn nut with penetrating oil).
• Rag Repeat with the opposite side and pull the toilet off the bolts.
• Mineral spirits 4. Use a putty knife to remove the old wax ring. Scrape the wax right
• Replacement wax ring into a plastic bag. When you’ve removed as much as you can with the
putty knife, clean remaining residue with a rag soaked in mineral spirits.
Once the flange is completely clean, stuff a rag in the hole to prevent
sewer gas from entering the room.
5. Inspect the existing closet flange for cracks, wear, or defects. Install
new flange bolts.

2 4 5

100 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

6 8 9

10 11

6. Remove the top protective covering on the new 9. Lay the tank on its back and push a bolt through
wax ring. Carefully slip the ring wax-side up onto the a rubber washer and then down through one of the
toilet horn. Remove the bottom protective covering. mounting holes. Thread a washer and an intermedi-
Optional: If your toilet is older, you may have a differ- ate nut onto the bolt and tighten a quarter turn past
ent type of 4" closet flange than what is shown here. hand-tight. Use the screwdriver to hold the bolt in
For older flanges and toilets, install the wax ring place as you tighten the nut with a wrench. Repeat
right on the closet flange, not on the toilet. Regard- with the second bolt.
less, avoid touching the wax ring. 10. Place the tank on the bowl with the spud washer
7. Carefully lower the toilet bowl onto the closet sitting flush in the opening and the bolts protruding
flange with the aid of a helper. Slip washers over the through the mounting holes. Thread washers and
bolts and secure with nuts, hand tightened. Tighten nuts onto each bolt and hand tighten. Use a wrench
completely with a socket wrench, alternating sides, to snug each bolt down but do not overtighten.
and being careful not to overtighten. 11. Connect the water supply. Turn the water on and
8. If the tank does not have a flush valve installed, let the tank fill. Flush and check for leaks. Fasten the
install it now following the manufacturer’s directions. toilet seat to the bowl.
Secure a spud washer on the spud nut.

Plumbing 101
 4. Electrical Issues

Many new homeowners are fearful of dealing with anything electrical. That’s
understandable given the potential danger. However, the electrical service basics are
fairly easy to master. Even if you never tackle an electrical project, it’s wise to have
an understanding of the system. That will help you determine if a problem needs
immediate attention and understand what an electrician needs to do before you
hire one.

The System
Electricity comes into a house through an under-
ground or overhead main, runs through the me-
ter into a breaker or fuse box, and is routed along
different circuits to outlets and fixtures throughout
the house. Each circuit services a given area. Circuits
are uniformly 120 or 240 volts. Each also provides a
limited number of amps.
Electricity is carried along wires protected inside
cables. Circuit wiring includes a ground, hot or live
wires that carry the actual voltage, and a neutral
wire that completes the circuit allowing electricity to
flow. When a circuit is overloaded—fixtures drawing
more power than the circuit supplies—fixtures can
be damaged, and overheating can cause fires. To
prevent damage, breakers trip or fuses blow.
Those are the basics, but not all house wiring is
created equal because not all houses were con-
A basic 60-amp fuse box . No longer permitted by current
structed at the same time. Depending on when your
electrical codes (modern minimum household service is 100
amps), this type of circuit breaker box is still common in house was built, it may have unusual wiring and
older homes . Any fuse that blows must be replaced with one electrical features. That’s because electrical codes,
rated for the same amps . standards, and practices are updated as new tech-
nology and materials are invented.

102 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 SkillBuilder
Wire nuts, also called “twist-on connectors,” are simple but can
seem complicated. They safely secure stripped ends of two or more
wires together. Wire nuts ensure wires stay connected and protect
exposed, unsheathed ends from shorts or other mishaps. They are
cone-shaped and colored by size. The sizes reflect the gauge and
number of wires with which the individual connector is meant to
be used. Although there are many different types, ranging from the
general use to more particular ceramic versions for high-temp situ-
ations, homeowners will usually select from just five common wire
nut colors: gray, blue, orange, yellow, and red. In reality, you’ll use
yellow or red in 90 percent of home electrical work. If you buy a
bulk package of wire nuts, the package will usually be labeled with
a chart listing the size of connector to use with given wire gauges
and numbers. Here is a version.
An easier but more expensive alternative are push-in connectors.
These have holes for two to four wires. Each stripped wire end is
pushed into a hole, where it is held securely by an internal clip. The
connectors are offered for different gauges. They don’t work in
every situation—such as cramped quarters where wires have to be
crammed in or in joining different gauges of wires—but they are an
easy solution for many situations.

Wire Color and Size Wiring is also categorized by diameter, known

as “gauge” and denoted by a hashtag. Gauge de-
Electrical wire colors usually (but not always) indi-
termines how much current the wire can carry. The
cate what role the wire plays in the circuit. The colors
lower the gauge, the bigger the wire diameter and
represent the following: green or copper—ground;
the more voltage it can safely transport. The most
white or gray—neutral; black or red—live.
common wire sizes in houses are #14 and #12.

Wire Size and Uses

GAUGE CAPACITY USE

#18–22 Low voltage Thermostat, doorbell

#16 Light duty Extension cord

#14 15 amps, 120 volts Light fixtures, electrical receptacles

#12 20 amps, 120 volts Large light fixtures, fans, GFCI, microwaves

#10 30 amps, 240 volts Window air conditioner, clothes dryer

#8 40 amps, 240 volts Central air conditioner, electric range

#6 55 amps, 240 volts High-capacity central air conditioner, furnace

Electrical Issues 103

 For efficiency and safety, individual wires are bun-
Pro Tip dled inside cables. There are many different types.
Materials and building standards have evolved over
Want a quick way to determine whether the
time. That means the cable in your house may differ
wire you’re working with is the common #14 or
from others, depending on when the structure was
#12? Pull out loose change; #14 wire is roughly
built. In the 1940s, for instance, “knob and tube” wir-
the thickness of a dime, while #12 is the thick-
ing was common. That method of wiring is no longer
ness of a nickel.
acceptable because of the fire danger. Armored ca-
ble is another older version, with wires running inside
a ribbed steel tube. This wiring was often unground-
ed, so also unsafe by today’s standards. The current
norm is “NM cable,” encasing wires inside a paper
sheath and a PVC outer shell color-coded by gauge.

Safety at Home
Electricity is unforgiving. Here are guidelines
for keeping electricity flowing in the wires rath-
er than through your skin.
• Always check any circuit with a tester, to
ensure there is no voltage, before beginning
work.
• Never drill or cut blind into a wall, ceiling,
or floor. Check if there is electrical wiring
behind the surface.
• Never change a plug to fit into an outlet
(such as clipping off the third prong) or
change an outlet to accept a plug.
• If you don’t understand wiring you expose,
stop and consult an electrician before pro-
ceeding. Damage to any one area can not
only cause harm but can disrupt the house’s
entire electrical system.
• Never substitute electrical tape for a proper
connection. Wire-to-wire connections should
be made with the correct size wire nut (see
page 103).

104 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

How to Strip NM Cable
TIME: 5 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Growing skills and tackling increasingly complex household electrical projects inevitably means stripping NM
cable. This has to be done correctly to avoid damaging wires.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure and mark the cable about 7" from the end. Slide the cable
ripper onto the end and squeeze it to pierce the cable. Holding the tool
• Tape measure
closed, pull it toward the end and off, slicing the cable open.
• Cable ripper
• Multipurpose 2. Peel back the PVC sheathing and separate the paper inner layer from
electrician’s tool the wiring. Cut off extra sheathing and paper with the multipurpose
tool.

3. Cut the wires to length (leave a minimum of 3" into an electrical box).
Strip each wire using the correct opening on the multipurpose tool.

1 3

Electrical Issues 105

 Work with Wires
TIME: 5 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Working with electrical wires requires attention to detail. These are

simple techniques, but do them wrong and you risk fire, electrical
shorts, and shocks. The basic skills here are a foundation on which
you can build other electrical skills.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. For all these steps, turn the power off at the breaker box and check
connections with a circuit tester to ensure they are not live. To connect
• Circuit tester
wires to terminals or to each other, start by stripping about 3⁄4" of the
• Multipurpose
insulation from the end, using a multipurpose electrician’s tool. Use the
electrician’s tool
opening that matches the wire gauge, clamp down, and pull off the
• Needle-nose pliers
insulation.
• Linesman’s pliers
2. Attach the wire to a receptacle terminal by forming a C-shaped hook
in the stripped end using needle-nose pliers. Hook the wire around the
screw terminal counterclockwise. The insulation should butt the screw
so that no unsheathed wire projects from the terminal. If the bare sec-
tion is too long, cut it and form the hook again. Never screw two wires
to the same terminal.
3. Join wires by stripping the ends and holding the wire ends together
and parallel to one another. Twist the ends with linesman’s pliers, twist-
ing three times to intertwine the ends.

4. Twist on a correct size wire connector (see page 103). Hand tighten
the connector as far as it will go; no bare wire should run beyond the
connector.

5. Pigtailing is mandated by electrical codes to attach two wires to the

same terminal. This involves connecting two wires to a third, and then
attach the third wire to the terminal. Start by cutting a 6" length of wire
that is the same gauge and color of the wires you’re pigtailing. Strip 3⁄4"
of the insulation from each end.

106 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

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4 5 6

6. Twist together and connect one end of the pigtail to both free ends
of the wires, securing the connection with the proper size of wire nut.

7. Connect the opposite end of the pigtail wire to the terminal. Check
that all connections are secure before pushing the wires into the box
and closing it up.

Electrical Issues 107

 Install a Dimmer Switch
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Replace a standard light switch with a dimmer switch to increase your

control over the lighting in any room. This is a good project for the
inexperienced DIYer to become familiar with basic electrical switch
principles. Where the light is controlled by one wall switch, you’ll buy a
single-pole dimmer switch. If the light can be controlled from two differ-
ent switches, you’ll use a three-way dimmer switch to replace one of the
switches (this project describes installing the more common single pole).
There must be enough room for the larger dimmer switch body in
the existing electrical box. If the dimmer switch body doesn’t fit, you’ll
need to replace the box. Most incandescent fixtures can be controlled
by a standard dimmer. Compact fluorescent (CFL) and LED lights may
not be dimmable; if they are, the dimmer must be made specifically for
those bulbs. You’ll also choose a traditional light switch with slider, a
toggle switch, a dial, or slide action.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off the power at the breaker. Unscrew and remove the existing
cover plate. Use a circuit tester to confirm the power is off.
• Phillips screwdriver
• Standard screwdriver 2. Unscrew the existing switch. Unscrew the wires from the switch
• Circuit tester terminals. Trim and strip the wire ends as needed, using a multipurpose
• Multipurpose electrician’s tool and needle-nose pliers as necessary.
electrician’s tool 3. Connect the electrical box ground to the dimmer switch. Connect
• Needle-nose pliers the red or live wire in the box to either black wire on the dimmer. Con-
• Dimmer switch
nect the second black wire to black or neutral box wire. Use wire nuts
• Wire nuts
to secure all the wire connections. Optional: There is a slight difference
in connecting a three-way dimmer switch. In removing the switch,
note the wire connected to the switch’s black screw—that is the live
wire. Mark it. Disconnect all the wires and then connect the three-way
dimmer switch by connecting the ground to ground, the two “traveler”
wires inside the box to the two traveler wires (the non-live wires) from
the switch. Connect the live wire from the switch to the live wire you
marked.

4. Push the wires into the box and screw the dimmer switch in place.
Turn the power back on and dim the lights fully and then brighten them
again. If everything is okay, screw the new cover plate over the switch.

108 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

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Optional

Electrical Issues 109

 Install Raceway Conduit
TIME: 90 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Raceway is metal channel

used to carry wires on a
wall rather than behind it.
This can be a convenient
wiring solution where
you don’t want to open
a wall and modify studs
to run wiring from one
area to another. It doesn’t
necessarily have to carry
bare wires; raceway con-
duit can also be a way
to neatly route cables
from a wall outlet plug
to a wall-mounted TV or entertainment system. The conduit can be painted to match a wall or left beige or
white. Raceway parts include two-part channels, corners and Ts, electrical and fixture boxes, and mounting
hardware. (This project details a basic and common installation connecting start and end receptacle boxes
with straight conduit and two elbow connectors.) Pieces are available in metal or plastic—although metal is
preferred by most homeowners. Keep in mind that raceway conduit is not permissible in every situation. For
instance, codes prohibit its use in areas that experience excessive moisture, such as bathrooms. Your local
codes may also restrict raceway usage in other situations; always check with your local building department
before installing it.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Calculate the capacity of the circuit you’re cutting into (see page 112).
Measure from the host receptacle to the new fixture location. If you’re
• Tape measure
splicing into the receptacle, you’ll need a surface-mounted electrical
• Raceway conduit,
electrical boxes, elbows, box to start, raceway channel with any corners or intersections, and a
and hardware surface-mounted fixture or electrical box to complete the extension
• Circuit tester (for plugs and cables, you only need the raceway). Add 10 percent to
• Phillips screwdriver the length.
• Power drill and bits 2. Shut off power to the circuit
• Stud finder
at the breaker box. Test the re-
• Pencil
ceptacle with a circuit tester to
• Hacksaw
ensure power is off. Unscrew the
• Level
faceplate and receptacle from the
• Multipurpose
electrical box. Screw the raceway
electrician’s tool
receptacle box (the “starter box”)
• Rubber mallet
mounting plate to the existing
electrical box.

110 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

3 4 6

7 8 9

3. Remove the starter box knockout for the conduit. 6. Use a stud finder to locate studs between the two
If there is more than one knockout outline, check receptacle boxes. Use a pencil to mark the locations
the size and profile of your raceway and remove the and screw mounting clips to the wall at the stud
knockout to match. locations, keeping the clips 1⁄4" from any baseboard,
4. Screw the starter box to the mounting plate. molding, or adjacent wall. Screw mounting clips into

Starting at the knockout in the starter box, measure place 1⁄2" under the knockouts on both receptacle

from the box to the nearest junction you’ll have to boxes.

make with the conduit (usually an L turn requiring 7. Measure and use a hacksaw to cut a short section
an elbow). If the connector runs right above the of raceway to extend from the first receptacle box
baseboard, leave 1⁄4" gap between the two. Screw the to the elbow. Snap it into the clip and repeat the pro-
connector mounting plate to the wall. cess at the opposite receptacle box.
5. Determine the new receptacle box location; it 8. Position an elbow mounting plate directly below
should be attached to a stud, if possible. Drill pilot the track from the receptacle box, checking that the
holes and screw the mounting plate in place. Option- bottom horizontal leg is level. Screw it in place and
al: If you’re simply running cables to a wall-mounted repeat for the opposite receptacle box.
TV, you’ll terminate the conduit without a receptacle 9. Measure between the elbow leg ends and cut the
box. In that case, end the run with a mounting clip track to match. Snap the track onto the mounting
(see step 6). brackets and elbows, tapping with a mallet as need-
ed. If track is longer than the length you buy, use two
sections butted together at a mounting bracket and
covered with a straight connector.

(continued) 

Electrical Issues 111

 10 11 12

10. Cut black, white, and green THNN wire 2' longer than the distance
box to box. Snake the wire ends into the starter box, down into the
track, all the way to the end box. Pull out about 1' of wire.

11. Snap the elbow covers on the track, tapping with a mallet to seat
them. Starting with the new receptacle, strip the wire ends as neces-
sary and attach the black wire to the receptacle’s hot terminal (usually
a gold screw). Connect the white to the silver screw, and the green to
the ground or green screw. Tuck the wire cluster into the receptacle
box and screw the receptacle to the face of the box.
13
12. At the starter box, screw the opposite ends of the black and white
wires opposite each other on the gold and silver screws, as on the end
receptacle. Connect the house black and white wires on the screws
right above the wires you just attached.

13. Cut a 6" piece of green wire and strip both ends (this will be the
“pigtail”). Twist one end of the pigtail with the ground wire ends
(usually green and bare copper) in the box, covering with the correct
size wire nut. Connect the other end of the pigtail to the receptacle’s
ground screw.
14. Tuck the wires into the box and screw the receptacle onto the face
of the box. Turn the power back on and check all outlets. Screw the
cover plates over the receptacles on each end.

Calculating Circuit Capacity

Each breaker in your box represents a circuit. The total electrical capacity of a circuit is a simple calcu-
lation: the amps for which the circuit is rated, times the voltage for that circuit (usually 120 volts). So,
for instance, a typical circuit might have a 15-amp breaker, so the capacity is 15 amps × 120 volts = 1,800
watts. That’s total capacity; electrical pros generally consider 20 percent less the “safe operating capaci-
ty” (so, in this case, 1,440 watts). Once you know the circuit capacity, add up the wattage of fixtures and
appliances on the circuit. That number cannot exceed max capacity of the circuit. Wattages are listed on
the fixture or appliance.

112 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Upgrade an Outlet to GFCI
TIME: 15 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets are a modern safety

feature that are now an integral part of building codes. These are used
primarily where moisture is a constant—in rooms such as kitchens,
bathrooms, and laundry rooms. The GFCI is designed to react amaz-
ingly quickly to small changes in current, shutting off the circuit and
preventing fire and injury. If you own an older home, it’s wise to replace
bathroom and kitchen outlets with GFCI versions. Be aware that the
outlets are bigger than standard electrical outlets and may not fit into
older, smaller electrical boxes. In those cases, upgrade the box as well
as the receptacle.

How You Do It
1. Turn the power off at the breaker box. Unscrew and remove the cover
plate and the receptacle. Use a circuit tester to double-check that the
power is off.

2. Disconnect the wires from the existing receptacle. Reattach them

to the same terminals on the GFCI receptacle (the hot terminal will
normally be labeled “hot line”). Connect the copper ground wire to
the green terminal. Optional: If there are more than one white and one
black wire, cut 6" pieces of white and black wires (pigtails) and strip
each end. Twist the ends of the white wires together with one end of
the white pigtail and secure it with the correct size wire nut. Connect it
to the neutral, silver terminal. Repeat the process with the black wires
Wire connections for GFCI outlets
and pigtail, connecting the pigtail to the hot line terminal on the GFCI.
Connect the copper ground to the green terminal.

3. Tuck the wiring back into the electrical box and screw the GFCI to
What You’ll Need the front of the box. Turn the power back on and test the GFCI, follow-
ing to the manufacturer’s directions. Screw on the GFCI faceplate.
• Phillips screwdriver
• Circuit tester
• GFCI receptacle
• Multipurpose
electrician’s tool
• Wire nuts (optional)
• Wire (optional)

1 2

Electrical Issues 113

 Install a Whole-House Surge Protector
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

The worst thing that can happen to a residential electrical system is a surge of power. Where a surge of wa-
ter pressure might just cause a burst pipe or leak, the surge from something as simple as a lightning strike to
a local power transformer can cause widespread havoc in your home’s electrical system, even destroying or
damaging expensive electronics and key fixtures. Lightning strikes aren’t the only cause; power surges can
result from auto accidents involving local grid equipment, sudden changes in power patterns, and other mal-
functions. As awful as a catastrophic surge might be, the same damage can happen on a smaller scale with
micro surges lasting a second or less and going unnoticed. Those can cause mysterious electronic failures
and shorten appliance life span. A whole-house surge protector ensures against that damage.
Unlike power-strip surge protectors, which can be overwhelmed and fail when you need them the most, a
whole-house protector is wired where the electricity enters the house. The two basic types are units installed
at the meter by a professional electrician and an interior protector wired into the breaker box. (This project
describes installing the latter.) Regardless of which you choose, whole-house surge protectors should be
labeled with the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) 1449 rating.

114 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off power at the power main and remove the breaker box cover.
Check each breaker with a circuit tester to ensure there is no power.
• Circuit tester
Decide on the best position for the surge protector unit. Typically, the
• Screwdriver
protector box is mounted with its nipple aligned with a breaker box
• Whole-house surge
side knockout. The protector has screw flanges, allowing it to be fas-
protector
tened to a wall. However, they vary in construction; follow the manufac-
• Hammer
turer’s instructions.
• Multipurpose
electrician’s tool 2. Remove the breaker box knockout (tap it out with a hammer). Screw
• (2) 15-amp single-pole the protector box to the wall, with the nipple end to the knockout and
breakers the wires running through. Route the protector’s wires to reach the
breaker box slots in as efficient a route as possible. Trim and strip the
ends. Connect the black wires to two dedicated 15-amp breakers.

3. Connect the protector’s white wire to the breaker box’s white neutral
bar. Connect the green wire to the ground bar. Snap the two breakers
into the lowest terminal bar slots.

4. Turn the power on. Use a circuit tester with a readout to check that
the voltage between the two black protector leads is 240 volts. Re-
place the breaker box cover. Check that the indicator lights on the
protector are lit.

1 2

Electrical Issues 115

 Install Under-Cabinet Lighting
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Kitchen under-cabinet lighting affects both safety

and aesthetics. Illuminating a typically shadowed
area allows you to more safely cut and prepare food.
It also adds a welcoming brightness to a room where
abundant light is equated with cleanliness.
You can install battery-operated fixtures, but they
are cumbersome and it’s hard to fully conceal the
fixtures or battery pack. Individual plug-in lights are
an option, but using more than one leads to cord
clutter that gets in the way of kitchen functions.
Some homeowners hardwire under-cabinet lighting
into the nearest circuit. That is a big undertaking
and requires opening the wall and in-depth electrical
work. A happy medium is low-voltage under-cabinet
lighting. A single plug powers a series of fixtures,
and installation requires modest time and effort.
Choose between strip fixtures and pucks (pucks are shown here, but strips are installed in a similar man-
ner). Strips offer more even illumination. They are great for adding ambient light. Puck spotlights are a more
dramatic and contemporary look, ideal for task lighting where you prepare food. You’ll likely come across
tape lights as well. These provide accent lighting and aren’t usually used to illuminate work surfaces. They
are placed in toe-kick recesses or on top of cabinets.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure your cabinets’ bottom lip before you buy the lights to ensure
fixtures and power hub will be concealed. Clear off the countertop.
• Tape measure
• Under-cabinet puck 2. Lay out the lights and cords on the counter underneath the cabinets
lights to determine where the individual fixtures will go (most manufacturers
• Pencil recommend spacing lights at least 12" apart). The power cord must be
• Power drill and bits able to reach an outlet.
• Hole saw (optional) 3. Measure and mark each puck location on the cabinet bottoms. They
• Screwdriver should be 1" or less from the front lip. Drill an access hole to the near-
• Hammer
est outlet inside the cabinet (if there isn’t one, skip this and use a wall
• Cable clips
outlet).
Optional: If your cabinets have no bottom lip and you want to recess
the pucks, drill holes in the cabinet bottoms at each location, using a
hole saw. Snap each fixture out of its housing, feed the wires through
the hole, and screw the puck to the bottom.

116 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

1 4

4. Remove the lens from the base of the first puck.

Position the base and mark for the screws. Drill
shallow pilot holes being careful not to drill all the
way through. Screw the fixture in place—wire notch
facing to the back—using the screws provided.

5. Repeat with the remaining pucks. Use cable clips

to secure the wires to the cabinet bottoms, out of
sight. Mount the light switch on a cabinet side or
wall. Plug the transformer and power supply into the
nearest outlet. Test the lights and fix connections as
necessary. Attach the lens covers over each puck.

Electrical Issues 117

 Replace a Ceiling Light Fixture
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Swapping out an old ceiling light fixture for a newer

model can go a long way toward changing the look
of the room. It’s also a way to increase the available
light or even change the light type—such as going
from the warm yellow of an incandescent fixture to
the sparkling blue of an LED or halogen.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Shut off power to the room at the breaker box. Remove the shade
and loosen the fixture base mounting screws. Remove the base and
• Circuit tester
hold it (or have a helper hold it). Check the connections with a circuit
• New lighting fixture
tester to ensure the power is off to the fixture, and then unscrew the
• Multipurpose
wire nuts from the existing connections.
electrician’s tool
• Screwdriver 2. Check that the ceiling box is UL approved and up to code. If it isn’t,
replace it. Cut off the ends of the wires with a multipurpose tool. Strip
about 3⁄4" at the end of each wire.
3. If there is not a structurally sound mounting strap in place, install
one. (Some light fixtures are sold with mounting straps. If so, install the
mounting strap that came with the fixture.)

118 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 1 2

3 5

4. Screw the electrical box ground and the fixture 6. Screw the fixture’s base plate to the mounting
ground to the mounting strap ground screw. (You’ll bracket or screw the fixture’s threaded nipple into
need to hold the fixture base plate up or have a the female threaded opening. Put a bulb in the fix-
helper do it.) If the manufacturer specifies a different ture and turn the power on. Test that the light works
ground method or wiring diagram, follow the manu- and then put any remaining bulbs in the fixture and
facturer’s instructions. fasten the shade or cover.
5. Connect the electrical box white wire with the
fixture’s white wire, and black to black, using the
correct size wire nut.

Electrical Issues 119

 Replace a Ceiling Fixture with Track
Lighting
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Track lighting remains a popular upgrade for homeowners. Whereas a single overhead fixture may not serve
the room well, track lighting allows you to point the light exactly where you need it to go. Choose between
LED and halogen fixtures to control the lighting color and brightness. There are also a wealth of options
when it comes to style—from units that visually fade into the ceiling and nearly disappear to funky, fun, and
artistic versions that make a style statement all by themselves. In any case, this is an easy upgrade, although
a helper will make the project much easier and more manageable.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Turn off power to the light fixture at the breaker box. Unbox the new
track lighting and check that all pieces and hardware have been includ-
• Track lighting
ed. Remove the existing shade and bulbs. Unscrew the base from the
• Phillips screwdriver
mounting bracket.
• Circuit tester
• Measuring tape 2. Use a circuit tester to double-check that the power is off. Disconnect
• Pencil the electrical box wires from the existing fixture and remove the fixture.
• Hacksaw (optional) 3. Pull the box wiring through the hole in the track lighting mounting
• Power drill and bits bracket. Screw the bracket to the electrical box. Fasten the green or
• Stud finder copper house ground wire to the green ground screw on the strap.
• Toggle or molly bolt Optional: Measure and mark the track to the length desired. If neces-
(optional) sary, wrap tape at the mark and cut the track to length with a hacksaw.
• Multipurpose If your lighting comes with more than one piece, assemble the connec-
electrician’s tool tions and any T- or L-fittings that you might be using (to create a layout
• Wire nuts different than the standard straight run).

2 3 Optional

120 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 4 5 6

7 8

4. Place the track in the mounting bracket saddle. connections. (The ground wire from the track’s pow-
Mark mounting hole locations on the ceiling with a er supply is usually pigtailed to the electrical box’s
pencil (if your track does not have predrilled mount- ground and connected to the mounting bracket
ing holes, drill ⁄16" holes every 12" to 14" and mark
3
ground screw. Follow the manufacturer’s directions.)
these locations on the ceiling). 7. Tuck the wiring into the track mount cover and
5. Mark joist locations with a stud finder. Screws can snap or screw it in place. Cap the track ends with
be driven directly through the mounting holes at dead-end cap fittings.
these locations. Otherwise, slip a toggle or molly bolt 8. Insert the heads into the track (usually by slipping
through the track mounting holes and drill 5⁄8" access the stem in and twisting). Make sure each head is
holes at the marked points on the ceiling. Hold the secure before letting go. Slide and point the light
track up and push the bolts into the access holes far heads where you want them. Turn on the power and
enough to expand the wings. Tighten the bolts until test the lights.
the track is snug against the ceiling.

6. Strip as necessary with a multipurpose electri-

cian’s tool and connect the house wires to the track’s
power supply fitting wires: black to black, and white
to white. Use the correct size wire nuts to secure the

Electrical Issues 121

5. Interior Surfaces

Thanks to the sheer visual space they take up, the surfaces in a house determine the
overall style and feel of the interior more than any other feature. Dingy or damaged
surfaces have just as powerful a negative impact. The good news? Sprucing up or
repairing interior surfaces are some of the easiest, most satisfying, and best skill-
building projects a homeowner can tackle. As a bonus, they are also some of the
biggest bang-for-the-buck improvements you can make.
Surface repairs and upkeep are, however, an ongoing battle because the largest
surfaces in your home take the most abuse. Just think how much mileage your living
room floor sees, or how often you prepare food or drop things on a kitchen floor.
With that in mind, this chapter covers the most • to breakage or problems with water infiltration,
common surface mishaps and simple, easy, and re- with “post-form” types a close second because
warding improvements you can make to the surfaces they have seams . Solid counters, such as quartz,
in your house. The techniques you’ll pick up will be stone, recycled glass, or solid-surface materials,
useful throughout the house. Paint a room correctly can endure a lot of abuse without showing dam-
and it will look significantly better than one that was age . However, care and cleaning are essential to
painted sloppily—and you’ll have the skill to paint keeping these surfaces looking as nice as possible
every room in the house like a pro. Fix a squeaking (see page 136) .
wood floor in a bedroom and you can do the same
thing to an old wood living room floor.
What’s more, the skills you’ll pick up from this
chapter can easily be built on to successfully com-
plete more ambitious and transformative home proj-
ects. It isn’t much of a technical leap from installing a
backsplash (page 132) to tiling a tub surround. Learn
to put down laminate click-lock planks and you can
do a similar floor in linoleum’s cousin, Marmoleum.

Understanding Surface
Construction
Almost every surface in a house, with the exception
of solid-surface countertops, is built up in layers.
Here are the basics of the surfaces you’ll likely repair
or improve.
Drywall covers most house walls and ceilings . It comes in
• Walls: Some old houses have plaster walls that standard panels 4' wide by 8' long (12' and 16' lengths are
are created by layering plaster on thin wood available but rarely used by homeowners) . The panels are
“lath.” These are subject to cracking and are best 1
⁄4", 3⁄8", 1⁄2", or 5⁄8" thick .
repaired or resurfaced by a professional. Most
modern houses are constructed of drywall nailed
or screwed to wall studs and ceiling joists.
• Floors: Surfaces underfoot are created with a
plywood subfloor nailed to joists and covered with
wood strips, resilient floor such as laminates or
linoleum, hard tiles, or carpet. Carpet, wood, and
resilient flooring are often installed over a soft
“underlayment” that cushions the floor and makes
it softer to walk on and less noisy.
• Countertops: Tiled countertops are the most prone

Special drywall called “greenboard” is used in areas where

moisture is an issue . Different types are used in different
applications, as backer to tile or paint in bathrooms and
kitchens .

Wood floors, such as this wide-plank

surface, shout luxury—but only when
properly maintained .

Interior Surfaces 123

 Paint an Interior Correctly
TIME: 45 minutes (depending on surface area and prep needed) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Painting is the most basic and useful of DIY skills. Because

the techniques are so straightforward, DIYers often make the
mistake of thinking they were born knowing how to paint.
But there is a right and a wrong way to paint surfaces. The
difference between a professional quality job and sloppy,
amateurish work is painfully apparent. Keep in mind that
any painting project is something you’ll see and live with on
a daily basis. It pays to take your time and do it right. Do a
good job and interior painting is the closest you’ll come to
instantaneous gratification. The right wall color transforms a
space and freshens the space.
Start by understanding how paint and light interact. An
uneven top coat allows light to reflect differently from one
area to the next. That creates a spotty, unattractive look,
as do roller or brush marks. A too-thin top coat allows the
underlying color, whatever it was, to influence how the eye
reads the final color. Prevent these problems because they
are nearly impossible to fix after painting, except by com-
pletely repainting. That’s why the most useful painting tools
are patience and attention to detail. Small details make a big
difference, and even a small error can stand out like a sore
thumb.

Money Wise
Bargain paints often aren’t. Off-brand products tend to be thin-
ner, taking more coats to cover and costing more in the long run
because you have to use more paint to get the same coverage.
Similarly, tints may not be as true to the color swatches as they are
with expensive brands. Always sample any paint and buy carefully,
checking online reviews from other customers.

124 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 SkillBuilder
Proper “cut-in” around the borders of a surface is essential to a polished, professional result. Getting it
right means developing your brush-handling expertise and avoiding common mistakes. The guidelines
below will help you do just that.

• Use an angled sash brush. These are much more efficient and
easier to control when cutting in and are perfect for getting into
corners.
• Work from a paint pail, rather than a full bucket of paint, to
increase your control and reduce the likelihood of spills.
• Don’t overload the brush. It’s better to apply a second coat,
than to lay down a thick coat that ends up running, dripping, or
bleeding under tape seams.
• Work in the brightest light possible. It can be difficult to see
where a lighter top coat is going over primer. Bright light makes
the separation clearer.
• Learn to freehand. Pros rarely tape seams. You can save a lot
of time and hassle by learning to cut in as they do. (Practice
on taped-off surfaces). Drag the brush parallel to the adjacent
surface. On the first pass, leave a 1⁄8" gap. Fill in the gap on your
second pass.
• Cut a trough on textured ceilings. Use a putty knife to cut a
very thin (1⁄8" or less) valley along the edge of a textured ceiling
at the seam. As you cut in, the paint will flow into and be con-
tained by this “trough.”

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Spread drop cloths to protect floors and furniture. Prep cracks,
holes, or other damage by filling with spackle, letting it dry, and sand-
• Drop cloths
ing smooth. Wipe the wall clean of any dust with a damp sponge. For
• Spackling compound
significant drywall damage, see pages 128 and 129. Fill defects in wood
• 220-grit sandpaper or
trim with wood putty and sand smooth. Optional: Wash extremely dirty
sanding sponge
walls or trim with a mild soap-and-water solution. For stubborn grime,
• Sponge
use trisodium phosphate (TSP) following the directions on the box.
• Paint
If you are painting a room in an older house and suspect the existing
• Putty knife
paint contains lead, test it using a test kit (available at home centers).
• Wood putty
• TSP (optional)
• Bucket (optional)
• Painter’s tape
• Primer
• 2" paintbrush
• Roller set
• Telescoping roller handle

(continued) 

Interior Surfaces 125

 2 3

4 6

2. Use painter’s tape to protect seams at base- 6. Open the paint can and stir it with a stir stick.
boards, flooring, trim, or any area you don’t intend You can use a drill with a paddle mixer attachment
to paint. Apply short strips, generously overlapped. to mix larger, 5-gallon buckets of paint, but avoid
Finish by dragging a putty knife blade over the seam splashes. Optional: If you’re painting several walls or
to ensure the tape is sealed. a big room, “box” multiple gallons of paint, combin-
ing paint into one large container (such as a 5-gallon
3. Cut in with primer, brushing a 3" band along joints
bucket). Slowly and steadily stir the paint until it is a
between surfaces. Roll the surface before the cut-in
uniform color. This prevents color variations wall to
dries. Roll 3' × 3' sections, starting on the ceiling and wall.
working out from one corner. Use a telescoping roller
7. Cut in one wall at a time, so that the paint is still
handle rather than a ladder.
wet when you roll it. Roll the wall in the same way
4. Prime a wall working in 3' × 4' sections (two sec- you primed it. Work quickly so that no part of the
tions top to bottom), working from one edge and surface dries before you’re finished.
from top to bottom. To ensure complete coverage,
8. Finish painting the walls. Remove the painter’s
roll an overlapping “W” pattern. Pro Tip: Although
tape as soon as the paint starts to set up and be-
white primer is the norm, you can have the store tint
comes tacky but before it dries entirely.
the primer to match the top coat color, to ensure
against show-through. 9. Once the wall paint is dry, tape off any trim that
will be painted. A 2" brush is usually best for trim.
5. Once dry, check the surface for blobs, ridges, or
Work from the top down on windows and doors, and
imperfections. Sand any you find. Wipe off sanding
from the frame into the sash or door.
dust with a moist sponge.

126 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 Pro Tip
Accent walls—a small portion of the room, painted in a much
bolder or contrasting color—are not as in vogue as they once were
but can still be a way to introduce vibrant color into an otherwise
subtle look. Accent walls draw attention, so be absolutely precise
when painting one. Carefully tape off adjacent surfaces so the
borders are crisp and allow the accent wall to pop exactly as you
want it to.

Repair Drywall Nail Pops

TIME: 20 minutes (depending on number of pops) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Drywall in older homes may have been installed with nails rather than screws. Over time, the nails work
themselves out and create “nail pops”—small, unattractive blemishes in the surface. Fix all of them at the
same time.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Drive a drywall screw into the wall 1" right above the nail pop. Care-
fully hammer the nail pop flush. Spackle over both. Let dry, sand the
• Power drill and bits, or
repair, and prime and paint the wall.
driver
• 2" drywall screws
• Hammer
• Spackle
• Putty knife
• Sandpaper or sanding
sponge
• Primer and paint Pro Tip
• 1" paintbrush
Fix small holes with drywall supplies on hand or go the easier route
and buy a drywall patch kit. These include a self-adhesive screen
patch, a small tub of compound, and a plastic putty knife. Stick the
patch over the hole, cover with compound in a crisscross pattern,
smooth, and feather the edges. Let dry, sand, prime, and paint the
wall.

Interior Surfaces 127

 Fix a Medium Drywall Hole or Crack
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

A door slamming open or even moving furniture can create a hole too large for a patch kit. In that case, ap-
ply what is known as a “California patch.”

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure and mark the drywall for a square patch at least 2" larger on
all sides than the hole, using a metal straightedge. Measure and score
• Tape measure
the back of the drywall with a smaller square, 1 1⁄2" smaller on all sides.
• Pencil
Snap off the rectangular gypsum section on each side, and carefully
• Metal straightedge
peel off the face paper.
• 2' × 2' drywall repair
panel 2. Hold the patch over the hole and mark around the gypsum center
• Utility knife (not including the paper-only lip). Use a drywall saw to cut out the
• Speed square or square around the hole.
carpenter’s square
3. Coat the patch’s paper border with wall compound. Stick the patch
• Drywall saw
in place and spread compound over it. Smooth and feather into the
• Putty knife
surrounding surface. Sand and apply a second coat, if necessary. Sand
• Wall compound
smooth, prime, and paint the wall.
• Sandpaper or sanding
sponge
• Primer and paint
• Paintbrush

1 3

128 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Repair a Large Drywall Hole
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Drywall patches for larger holes need to be secured in place to be stable and long lasting. That means creat-
ing a surface to which the patch can be screwed.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure and mark the drywall for a square patch 1" larger on all sides
than the damaged section. Score cut lines on the drywall surface with a
• Tape measure
utility knife. Snap the patch out.
• Pencil
• Drywall 2. Hold the patch in front of the damaged area and mark the outline
• Utility knife with a pencil. Use a drywall saw to cut out the marked area.
• Metal straightedge 3. Cut two 1" × 2" scraps about 3" longer than the patch. Slip one into
• Drywall saw the hole in the wall and screw it along and just inside one edge with 2"
• 1" × 2" scrap pieces deck screws. Repeat with the second piece along the opposite edge.
• 2" deck screws
4. Place the patch into the wall and screw it to the wood strips. Line the
• Putty knife
seams with joint tape and cover with a layer of compound. Smooth and
• Joint tape
feather the edges into the surrounding surface.
• Wall compound
• Sandpaper or sanding 5. Sand and apply a second coat, if needed. Sand smooth, prime, and
sponge paint the wall.
• Primer and paint
• Paintbrush

3 4

Interior Surfaces 129

 Repair a Damaged Wall Corner
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

A crumpled wall corner is an eyesore in any room. It can also seem like a challenge to fix, but not when you
have the right know-how and some basic tools.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Lay a drop cloth under the work area. Mark and score a rectangle
around the top, sides, and bottom of the damage. Cut into the edg-
• Drop cloth
es of the damaged corner bead with a utility knife. Clean out the old
• Utility knife
compound covering the corner bead with a stiff putty knife so that the
• Putty knife
corner bead is completely exposed.
• Hacksaw
• Pry bar 2. Use a hacksaw to cut along the scored marks top and bottom. Use
• Aviation snips a pry bar to remove the damaged section. Use aviation snips to cut a
• Corner bead new section to match the old. Optional: If the damaged section termi-
• Drywall nails nates at the bottom or top of the wall, cut the end so that it doesn’t
• Hammer overlap with existing corner bead. Mark and cut each side of one end to
• Drywall compound a 45° angle before proceeding.
• Small taping knife 3. Nail the new corner bead in place. Cover with two or three coats of
• Sandpaper or sanding compound, using a small taping knife (sand between coats). Feather
sponge the top coat into the surrounding surface and sand to create a crisp,
• Primer and paint sharp edge. Prime and paint.
• Paintbrush

2 Optional 3

130 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Hang a Floating Shelf
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

A floating shelf is an interesting look and useful addition to any room. It’s easy to install and great where
a more substantial solution such as bracket shelving would be hard to position or install. Floating shelves
are, however, limited in the weight they can support; so it’s important to read and follow the manufacturer’s
warnings. They’re ideal for the bathroom or for a spice shelf in a kitchen. The glass shelf here is a bit of a hy-
brid, installed as other floating shelves are, but with decorative support escutcheons. The supports for most
floating shelves are completely concealed.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need

• Shelf
• Tape measure
• Stud finder (optional)
• Pencil
• Level
• Drill

1 2

1. Assemble the shelf as necessary.

Some require bracket receivers be
screwed into cutouts in the shelf’s
back edge; the shelf here is fit
with decorative brackets prior to
hanging. Hold the shelf in posi-
tion and mark the center point
of each bracket. Optional: Adjust
shelf location for shelves that will 3 4
hold extra weight by using a stud
finder so that the supports can be
3. Center the bracket on the in- 4. Slip the shelf brackets onto the
screwed into studs.
tersection of the lines. Mark and mounting brackets and tighten
2. Use a level to mark 3" vertical drill a pilot hole for the mounting the setscrew to secure them.
lines at the marks. Use the level bracket screw. Use a screw anchor Check level and slip the glass shelf
to mark across the lines for the or screw directly into studs. Screw into the shelf bracket on each
center of the brackets. the mounting brackets to the wall. side; adjust as necessary.

Interior Surfaces 131

 Install a Backsplash
TIME: 2 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

A backsplash adds undeniable flair to that often-

too-bare wall between the countertop and the upper
cabinets. A backsplash project is a wonderfully
achievable project to prepare you for larger projects
like tiling a bathroom floor. This will take one full
Saturday or half of two weekend days.
This project uses grid mosaics—tiny square tiles
attached to a square foot flexible vinyl mesh. It’s a
popular option for kitchens and baths because the
tiles look appealing and installation is simplified
(fewer tiles to position and cement to the wall).
These products come in a stunning array, from glass
tiles to ceramic mosaics and even stainless steel ver-
sions. There are also shapes such as hexagons and
circles. Regardless, the process you’ll use is the same
for installing individual tiles except that you don’t
use spacers to ensure uniform spacing between tiles.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Mark a 1" × 2" story stick that is at least half as long as the backsplash
area. Measure and mark the stick with pencil marks representing the
• Backsplash tiles
joints between the tile segments (in this case, 1' increments, but check
• 1" × 2" story stick
against the actual tile sheets).
• Tape measure
• Torpedo level 2. Measure and mark a vertical centerline on the backsplash (use a
• Pencil torpedo level). Use the story stick to mark tile unit placement. If an end
• Carpenter’s level piece would require an unusual cut, adjust the layout to accommodate
• Painter’s tape the easiest fabrication and most attractive appearance (whole mosaic
• Notched trowel tiles look best; larger segments of mesh units work best).
• Mastic adhesive 3. Countertops are usually not perfectly level. Use a carpenter’s level to
• Masking tape (optional) find the lowest point of the counter and mark a full mosaic tile up from
• Tile nippers that point. Determine level from that point and measure up the dis-
• 2×4 scrap
tance of one complete mesh tile unit from the lower line. Mark an upper
• Carpet or thick towel scrap
level line; this is the reference line for the top of the mesh segments.
• Rubber mallet
• Grout 4. Line the counter back edge with painter’s tape. Trowel mastic onto
• Rubber grout float the wall evenly, beneath the top reference line. Work in sections less
• Sponge than 4' long. Comb the surface with the trowel’s notched edge.
• Clean soft cloth 5. Press the tiles into place, twisting them slightly as you align them
• Caulk with the reference lines. Pro Tip: If tiles seem heavy enough to pull
• Drop cloth away from the wall, tape them in place with masking tape until the
• Caulk gun mastic dries.

132 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8

6. Finish installing the first row and then cut and 9. Clean excess grout off the surface with a damp
install the top row if necessary. sponge. When the grout has largely dried, buff the
7. Ensure the finished backsplash is securely seated surface clean with a soft cloth. After 24 hours, re-
by wrapping a 2×4 scrap in carpet scrap or a thick move the tape on the countertop and lay a bead of
old towel and tapping with a rubber mallet. Let the caulk between the backsplash and counter.
mastic dry for 24 hours.

8. Mix the grout and spread it with the float kept at

a 30° angle. Press the grout forcefully into the joints.
Wipe off excess grout with the float, holding it at
about a right angle. Work diagonally. Pro Tip: Use
non-sanded grout for gaps thinner than 1⁄8".

Interior Surfaces 133

 Wall-Mount a Flat-Screen TV
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

The modern flat-screen TV is a space-saver. You lose

that benefit if you just stand it up on a console or in
an entertainment center. Most manufacturers figured
this out a long time ago, which is why you’ll find
aftermarket mounting kits for almost any flat-screen
TV. Just match the size and make of the television to
the mount.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Unbox the mounting kit and check that all hardware has been includ-
ed. Use a tarp, drop cloth, or just a clean, empty area of countertop as
• TV mounting kit
a staging area. Make sure you have enough room to maneuver.
• Tarp or drop cloth
• Soft, clean towel 2. Lay the television facedown on a soft, clean surface such as a towel,
• Phillips screwdriver blanket, or clean canvas drop cloth. Remove any feet or base. Screw
• LED screen cleaner the mounting brackets to the back of the TV.
• Stud finder 3. Determine the height at which the TV will be mounted. Use a stud
• Tape measure finder to locate and mark stud centers in the area. Measure and mark
• Pencil the wall where the bottom of the brackets will hang and mark the
• Level bracket mounting plate screw holes.
• Power drill and bits
4. Hold the mounting plates in position and check level. Screw the
mounting plates—usually a top and bottom plate—into studs on each
end, using the screws supplied. Check level one final time. Optional: If
you are concealing TV cables in the wall, cut openings behind where
the TV will be positioned and near the bottom of the wall, where the
electronic entertainment components will be placed. Run the cables
from top to bottom and install wall plates as needed and required by
code.

134 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

2 3

5. Hook the TV brackets onto the wall mounts

(some have features that require the brackets be
screwed to the mounts; follow the manufacturer’s
instructions). This will be much easier with a helper.
Connect the TV to the entertainment system compo-
nents and adjust the height as necessary. Clean the
screen with a screen cleaner meant for your type of
TV screen prior to turning the system and the TV on.
Optional: If you prefer not to run cables through the
wall, but want to conceal them, use wall-mounted
4
raceway conduit from the entertainment system
components to the TV. See page 110 for installation
instructions.

Pro Tip
Most homeowners hang wall-mounted TVs too high. The exact cen-
ter of the screen should be level with a person’s eyes when they are
sitting on the couch. That measurement is usually 36" to 38" above
the floor (remember, that’s the center, not the bottom or top, of
the TV). This is the position at which the TV is meant to be viewed
to get the most out of your viewing experience. Add soft lighting
behind the TV for a cinematic experience when watching movies.

Interior Surfaces 135

 Countertop Cleaning Guide
Not all countertops are created equal, but all coun-
tertops are the hardest-working, most abused sur-
faces in any home. Bathroom surfaces are exposed
to many colorful health and beauty products, not to
mention abundant moisture. Kitchen counters see
the business end of cutlery and are subject to hot
pots, staining food and drink, and more. Different
countertop materials require different care, mainte-
nance, and cleaning. Knowing the best way to clean
your particular surfaces is key to keeping them look-
ing lovely over time.
• Laminates: Some of the most common and inex-
pensive countertops, laminates are usually used in
kitchens. Although modern laminates can mimic
stone or wood surfaces, the material is less durable
Cleaning: Clean up spills immediately to avoid
than other options.
staining. For the same reason, don’t leave drinks
Care: Laminate countertops are fabricated with
or bottles on the counter. Clean the surface with
seams, so clean up spills immediately and avoid
a cleaner formulated for use on granite surfaces.
flooding water on the surface. Never rest hot cook-
Avoid vinegar, ammonia, or citrus cleaning agents,
ware or cut food on a laminate countertop.
and dish soap.
Cleaning: Use gentle, nonabrasive, nonacidic
cleaners (warm water and dish soap will usually • Solid-surface composites: Less expensive than
suffice). For stains, use rubbing alcohol or acetone most stone surfaces and as attractive, solid-surface
on a clean, soft cloth. Clean in a swirling motion counters are an extremely popular choice among
and finish by rinsing with clean water until all homeowners.
cleaner has been removed. Stubborn stains can be Care: Wipe up spills immediately. Don’t set hot
removed with a paste of water and baking soda, cookware on the surface and use trivets or similar
lightly applied to the surface and then removed bases for heat-generating appliances like a toast-
with a moistened clean cloth. er oven. Don’t cut food directly on a solid-surface
countertop.
• Granite: Although an incredibly durable stone,
Cleaning: Clean the surface with ammonia-based
granite does require care and maintenance when
sudsy cleansers or any formulated specifically for
used as a countertop.
solid-surface counters.
Care: Sealing is a confusing issue affecting gran-
ite surfaces. How the granite was sealed in the first • Wood and butcher block: Butcher block is a long-
place will determine whether you need to reseal it standing countertop favorite for its country and
on a regular basis. However, any sealant needs to casual look and feel and a surface that’s close to
be protected to prevent the surface from becom- indestructible.
ing unattractively dull. The installer, manufacturer, Care: Unless the surface has been finished or
or retailer will provide sealer instructions. Follow waxed, butcher block should be regularly cleaned,
them to keep the counters looking as good as pos- disinfected, and oiled. Use raw linseed oil or food-
sible. Avoid setting hot cookware on the surface or grade mineral oil. Avoid setting anything that could
cutting directly on granite counters. burn the wood down on the surface, and use a cut-
ting block rather than the counter. Butcher block
can stain, so clean up spills immediately and avoid
setting wine or other staining food or liquids on
the surface. Many people, though, consider signs of
age and use part of the charm of butcher block.

136 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 Cleaning: Never use abrasive cleansers or scrub- Cleaning: For daily cleaning, a solution of mild
bers. Clean with warm water and mild dish soap. dish soap and warm water will work fine (go light
In preparation for oiling, clean thoroughly and on the soap). For regular thorough cleanings
spray with a half-and-half mixture of white vinegar (weekly or biweekly), use a cleaner meant specifi-
and water. If needed, scrub out stains with a paste cally for marble countertops.
made of water and salt. • Ceramic tile: Ceramic tiles are not the favorite they
• Quartz: These countertops are formed of crushed once were for kitchen and bath countertops, but
quartz stone in a resin media, creating a look they still offer a variety of sizes, colors, and surface
similar to granite. Quartz surfaces are not quite as textures at attractive prices. The ceramic itself is
durable as stone countertops but are resistant to easy to care for and clean; the weak spots of any
damage if properly cared for. tile countertop are the grout lines.
Care: Don’t use harsh or abrasive cleansers or Care: Avoid dropping heavy, hard items onto the
scouring pads. Don’t chop on the surface. Avoid counter because a broken tile can be an involved
contact with chemicals such as nail polish remov- repair. Reseal the grout lines yearly to prevent
er or bleach, inks, or any highly alkaline materials. them from stains and grime buildup. You can safely
Don’t set hot cookware or appliances directly on a cut on tile and set hot cookware on the surface.
quartz surface. Cleaning: Clean daily with dish soap and hot
Cleaning: Use a mild solution of warm water and water. Clean weekly with a disinfecting cleaner,
detergent to clean a quartz surface. Ideally, use a such as a mild diluted bleach solution, or a half-
commercial cleaner formulated for quartz surfaces. and-half mixture of hot water and vinegar. Grout
• Marble: A marble countertop has a particular op- lines are best revived with a deep cleaning using
ulence all its own. But as hard and enduring as the a soft toothbrush and a commercial grout cleaner
material can be, it is also susceptible to staining and sanitizer.
and other damage. In particular, anything acidic is • Stainless steel: Used in many restaurants, stainless
marble’s enemy. steel is easy to clean and maintain, but the look
Care: First and foremost, marble counters are and feel are a little cold for home kitchens. That’s
sealed and must be resealed regularly. Follow the why stainless steel is best used sparingly, such as
manufacturer’s recommendations. Although the to top a kitchen island.
material can tolerate heat, it’s wise to use a pad Care: You can set hot cookware on stainless steel
under hot cookware. Don’t cut food directly on and even cut food on the surface, although most
the surface. Most of all, never let even mildly acidic homeowners find it too noisy for chopping and
substances, such as citrus juices, wine, coffee, so- some techniques can scratch the surfaces. Avoid
das, or tomatoes, sit on the counter. Wipe up spills dropping heavy items on the counter because it
right away. can dent.
Cleaning: Stainless steel is easy to clean, even
though smudges and fingerprints show readily.
Use a solution of mild dish soap and hot water and
a clean cloth, wiping in a circular motion. Sanitize
after foods like raw chicken or pork with a mild
solution of bleach and warm water.
• Others: Although the options above are the most
popular and common, you may have opted for
something more unusual in your house. Recycled
paper, volcanic rock, concrete, and recycled glass
countertops all have their own weaknesses and care
and cleaning requirements. Follow the guidance
provided by the installer, seller, or manufacturer.

Interior Surfaces 137

 Install a Laminate Floor
TIME: 8 hours (for a basic room) / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Laminate flooring is a fantastic option for the inexperienced DIYer who would be overwhelmed by the
prospect of installing and finishing a new wood floor but who wants the satisfaction and cost savings of
self-installation. Simply put, the floor is created by laminating layers on top of a fiberboard base, including
a photo layer bonded and covered with a protective clear coating. Today’s laminates are significantly more
durable and scratch resistant than earlier versions. You can choose surface appearances ranging from com-
mon softwoods and exotic hardwoods to stones and even colorful tile versions. All are installed with a simple
click-and-lock process that requires few tools and even less expertise. If you are installing laminate in laun-
dry rooms or bathrooms, look for products specifically labeled as water- or moisture-resistant. All types are
appealing, warm, and comfortable underfoot. Laminates can theoretically be installed over just about any
stable existing floor other than carpet but are ideally placed on a clean and level subfloor. When estimating
flooring, measure the square footage and add 10 percent for waste (remember to add closet floors).

How You Do It
What You’ll Need 1. Pry off any baseboards and store in a safe location. Cut and remove
any carpet, and pry up carpet tack strips. Remove any loose or dam-
aged floor. Check your manufacturer’s information to determine if you
• Laminate flooring and
underlayment
can lay the laminate over the existing surface.
• Pry bar 2. Inspect a subfloor or existing floor for nail heads, screw points, or
• Gloves other obstructions. Remove any you find. Check for level all across the
• Safety glasses floor and use floor leveler, if needed, to level any low areas, following
• Kneepads the directions on the pail.
• Level
3. Measure the floor’s width (the boards will run perpendicular to this
• Liquid floor leveler
direction). Subtract 3⁄4" for expansion and contraction. Divide that
(optional)
number by the width of a laminate plank (without tongue). This is the
• Tape measure
• Carpenter’s pencil number of rows. If it leaves a partial board width, rip boards in the first
• 6-mil plastic sheeting row to this width. (If the remaining is less than half a plank, rip boards
• Wood shims or spacers for the first and last rows to half the leftover amount to create a bal-
• Circular saw anced appearance).
• Miter saw 4. If you’re installing on concrete, tape down a 6-mil plastic vapor barri-
• Tapping block er to cover the floor and use vinyl tape to cover the overlaps and seams
• Rubber mallet at the edges. In any case, roll out the underlayment supplied with the
• Pencil compass flooring you’ve purchased. Follow the instructions for installing it. It’s
• Pull bar usually unrolled; cut to fit with a utility knife, with each row being taped
• Hammer or stuck together. Optional: Some manufacturers supply 3⁄8" plastic
• Jigsaw (optional) spacers. If not, you can easily cut your own from wood shims. The spac-
ers save you time and effort when installing boards at the edges of the
room. Place them every 6" around the walls bordering the floor.

138 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

 1 2 3

4 4 6

5. Open the boxes and check the flooring for flawed pieces. Lay out the
first two rows to determine where boards will follow and avoid awk-
wardly duplicating patterns.
6. Use a circular saw to rip the starter row boards as necessary, cutting
the waste on the tongue edge of the board. If the boards in the first
row don’t need to be ripped, cut off the tongues.

7. Measure, mark, and crosscut one-third off the end of a plank using
the miter saw. These two pieces will start the second and third rows
7
respectively, to stagger the seams.

8. Lay the first row along the wall, starting with a full plank. Align the
end tongue and grooves for each successive piece. For the last plank,
crosscut it to fit as necessary in the corner, maintaining the 3⁄8" gap at
the wall.

(continued) 

Interior Surfaces 139

 9

10 11 12

9. Add rows starting each with a full, two-thirds, or 11. For the last row, lay each edge plank on the row
one-third plank successively. Fit each plank into the before it, using a scrap plank vertically as a spacer
row before by slipping the new plank’s tongue into against the wall. Scribe the cut line on the face of the
the groove of the previous row and snapping the edge plank with a pencil compass following the wall
board into place. If necessary, use a tapping block contour. Use a circular saw or jigsaw to cut the plank
and rubber mallet to tap the end or groove side of along the scribed line.
boards to lock them into position. 12. Install final row planks by slipping the tongue into
10. Cut the last plank in each row to fit and use a pull the previous row’s groove. Use a pull bar and a ham-
bar and rubber mallet to pull it into place on the end mer to fully seat the edge planks in place. Reinstall
of the row. baseboard and trim.

140 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Modify Laminate Flooring for Obstacles
TIME: 30 minutes (per alteration) / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Inevitably, you’ll have to accommodate pipes, floor vents, and other obstacles when laying laminate flooring.
Precise measurements are key to doing this seamlessly.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. For pipes, align the plank in position against the pipe and mark the
pipe location on the plank edge. Measure in the distance from the wall
• Pencil
and pipe, adding 3⁄8" for the expansion gap. Use a hole saw one size
• Tape measure
larger than the pipe’s diameter to create a hole. Clamp it over a sacrifi-
• Metal straightedge
cial piece and cut the hole from the bottom of the board.
• Hole saw
• Clamps 2. Make two cuts to create channel from the edge to the hole. Place the
• Power drill and bits plank.
• Jigsaw 3. For floor vents, measure the outline and transfer the measurements
to the top of the plank. Drill a corner access hole and use a jigsaw to
cut out the vent opening in the plank.

2 3

Interior Surfaces 141

 Fix a Squeaking Floor
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Flooring sits on a subfloor. In most homes, the subfloor rests on joists that can be accessed in a crawl space
or basement. (The ceiling must be opened to implement these solutions for a second story floor.) Although
getting to the area can be a challenge, the actual fixes are simple.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Locate the squeaking spot as precisely as possible, by using a flash-
light to check the subfloor while a helper walks across the floor. Any
• Flashlight
obvious subfloor movement will usually be a trouble spot.
• Wood shims
• Tape measure 2. In areas where there is flexing, shim between the joist and subfloor
• Utility knife by cutting shims to fit with a utility knife and tapping them in place
• Hammer with a hammer. Test the floor again to check that this has resolved the
• 2×6 blocking problem.
• Miter or table saw 3. If older, undersized joists are moving when the floor is walked on,
• Construction adhesive install blocking between the joists to stabilize them. Measure, cut, and
• Caulk gun screw the blocking and lay a bead of construction adhesive along the
• Power drill and bits top before positioning it. Screw the joists on each side to blocking with
• 3" wood screws the blocking held flush to the subfloor. Use 3" wood screws.
• 3⁄4" wood screws
4. If the squeaking is caused by a floorboard that has come loose of
the subfloor, face-screwing it would mar the surface. Instead, drive a 3⁄4"
screw from below to secure wood, laminate, or engineered wood floor-
ing to the subfloor. (Make absolutely sure before you do that the screw
will not penetrate the flooring top surface.)

3 3 4

142 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Repair a Deep Wood Floor Scratch
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

All it takes is trying to move a large piece of furniture without a sliding pad, and suddenly your beautiful
wood floor is marred with a deep scratch. A modest quick fix is all that’s needed to restore the appearance.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Wear a dust mask and use the random orbital sander with a fine-
grit sandpaper to sand the scratched boards down to bare wood. Pro
• Dust mask
Tip: Sand the length of each board in its entirety to better blend the
• Random orbital sander
repair into the entire floor.
• 160-grit sandpaper (or
finer) 2. Use a putty knife to fill the scratch with non-wax wood filler (tinted
• Putty knife versions will match the floor more exactly). Let the filler dry, then sand
• Non-wax wood filler smooth.
• Rubber gloves 3. Using a brush equal to the width of a floor board, stain the sanded
• 1" brush
boards as needed to match the surrounding floor. Let dry and finish
• Wood stain
with a top coat that matches the rest of the floor.
• Polyurethane or other
finish

2 3 4

Interior Surfaces 143

 Replace a Damaged Laminate Plank
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

As wonderful as laminate floors are, they are more susceptible to damage than wood or stone tile. Fortu-
nately, wholesale replacement of a damaged laminate plank isn’t difficult.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Remove any molding covering the edge of the plank nearest the wall,
on the side closest to the damaged plank. Use a chisel or pry bar, and
• Wood chisel
try to keep the molding intact for reuse.
• Pry bar
• Replacement laminate 2. Use a pry bar to pry the plank closest to the wall up and out. Contin-
plank ue removing planks until you reach the damaged plank. Remove it.
• Finish nails 3. Snap the replacement plank into position and replace the planks you
• Hammer removed. Reinstall the moldings and use a nailset to sink the nail heads.
• Nailset Cover the nail heads with wood putty and finish or paint as needed to
blend.

1 2 3

144 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Replace Cracked Floor Tile
TIME: 2 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

Ceramic and stone floor tiles are durable and attractive, but it is possible to break one. It’s just a matter of
dropping something heavy at a certain angle, and you’ll have an unsightly cracked tile in the middle of a
floor. This project focuses on floor tile, but the same process can be used to replace a cracked or chipped
wall tile (less often a problem, but just as unsightly). Aside from the obvious negative appearance, a cracked
tile allows water infiltration that can quickly cause damage to a subfloor and beyond. Depending on how
severe the crack is, it might even present a tripping hazard. For those reasons—and the look of your floor—
replace a cracked tile as soon as you notice it.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need

• Kneepads
• Replacement tile
• Grout saw or utility knife
• Small cold chisel
• Hammer
• Putty knife
• Sponge
• Bucket
• Premixed thinset mortar
(preferably acrylic) 2
• Mortar trowel
• Torpedo level or 1. Have the replacement tile on hand before you start removing the
straightedge
broken tile. This may take some searching if you or the previous owner
• Small grout float
did not set aside extra tile when the floor was laid.
• Premixed grout
2. Use a grout saw to clean out the grout from all around the broken
tile (some DIYers find a utility knife works more effectively for this, but
it’s easy to snap off the blade). You can also use a utility knife to cut the
seal around the edges of the broken tile and then remove wider grout
lines with the grout saw.

Pro Tip
Depending on the floor’s age, matching old tile can be a big chal-
lenge. Rather than checking at a home center, head right to a tile
store. Not only will the selection be greater, the pros in the store
are more likely to be able to help you find an exact match, even if
they don’t have it in the store.

(continued) 

Interior Surfaces 145

 3 7

9 10

3. Use a chisel and hammer to work under the 8. Immediately set the new tile in the mortar bed,
cracked area and start prying out pieces of the bro- leaving an even amount of space between the new
ken tile. Be very careful not to impact the grout lines tile and the existing tiles around it. Press down on
or otherwise damage the intact tiles surrounding the the tile and wiggle it back and forth to ensure a
broken tile. good bond with the mastic.
4. If the grout bed around the edges of the broken 9. Use a torpedo level or straightedge to check that
tile fractures and comes loose, remove it for better the new tile is level with the tiles all around it. Clean
access. Carefully remove the rest of the broken tile. off any residual mortar on the surface and let it dry
5. Remove all the old, dried mortar under the bro- completely. Do not walk on the tile in the meantime.
ken tile. Use a putty knife or other implement to pry 10. Use a small trowel or mini float to force premixed
up stubborn portions. Clean the area to wind up as grout into the joints around the new tile. To make
close to bare wood subfloor as possible. the grout blend in better, buy a pre-tinted grout that
6. Use a moistened sponge to clean up dust left matches the existing grout shade as closely as possi-
behind, and slightly moisten the subfloor so that it ble. Finish the joints with a grout finishing tool.
doesn’t dry the new mastic too quickly. 11. Scrape up clumps of grout with a putty knife and
7. Use a small notched knife to spread acrylic mortar clean the surface with a moist sponge. Wipe over
over the subfloor in the tile space. Use the unno- the new grout joints diagonally, being careful not
tched side of a mortar trowel to spread the mortar pull any grout out of the joints. When the surface is
in an even layer. Then use the notched side to furrow clean, leave the grout to cure for 24 hours, making
the mortar bed. sure no one walks on the tile. Once the grout is com-
pletely cured, wash and dry the floor and buff the
new tile surface with a soft, dry cloth.

146 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

6. Exterior Concerns
The outside of a house requires as much maintenance as the inside does. And
while the homeowner is the only one who has to tolerate problems on the interior,
exterior issues affect curb appeal and neighbors’ attitudes and can even impact
house association rules. What’s more, exterior problems can lead to damage to the
structure of the house.

Exterior maintenance includes both the protective ate shifting in the structure itself. Roofing and gut-
surfaces on your home and related areas like walk- ters degrade over time. Keeping an eye on those is
ways, driveways, and garages or sheds. Some of part of what should be an annual, if not semiannual,
these, such as foundation walls and roof soffit vents, exterior inspection. It is especially important to catch
can have a profound effect on the interior when any problems with the roof early before they cause
they are compromised. The roof, however, is the area greater damage that could result in the need for a
most subject to problems because it has to endure new roof—an incredibly expensive proposition.
the most direct exposure to the elements and toler

A house’s exterior walls are all constructed of similar layers .

For wood, vinyl, metal, or composite siding, the framed
walls are—from the inside out—insulated, sheathed with
plywood, covered with building wrap or felt paper, and
then sided (left) . The process is only slightly different for
applied siding such as stucco (right), which is laid on a layer
of metal lath that has been nailed to the building wrap and
sheathing .

Exterior Concerns 147

 Locate Roof Leaks
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Finding a roof leak is half the battle to fixing the problem. That’s because it’s not always clear where the wa-
ter is coming in. Water wicks and follows the path of least resistance, which means wherever you detect the
leak and subsequent damage may be far from the actual hole in the roof. The steps here will help you track
down the source of any roof leak.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. In the attic, examine the underside of the roof sheathing with a flash-
light during a rainstorm or while a helper sprays the roof with a hose.
• Ladder
(This assumes an unfinished space. You may need to remove drywall in
• Flashlight
a finished attic.) The trail of moisture should be fairly obvious; track it
• Awl or power drill with
back to where it’s coming in.
small bit
• Bucket 2. Minimize water damage to existing ceilings while you fix the roof.
• Tape measure With an awl or drill, make a small hole where water is pooling above a
ceiling, and put a bucket underneath it to drain the water.

3. Measure from the leak in the attic, to a feature that will be identifi-
able outside, such as the peak of the roof. On the roof, use the mea-
surement to locate exactly where the damage is and fix it.

1 2 3

148 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Make Emergency Roof Repairs
TIME: 20 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Emergency roof repairs are exactly that—stopgap fixes made in the heat of the moment to prevent near-
catastrophic damage from getting even worse. These techniques are most often used when extreme weath-
er damages a roof and you need to immediately prevent the interior from flooding. If you have the time and
opportunity—or can get a pro out to deal with the situation—it is always better to make permanent repairs.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need

• Ladder
• Fall arrest gear
• Plywood scrap
• Hammer
• Double-headed nails
• 1" × 2" lath or similar
• 6-mil or heavier plastic
sheeting or plastic tarp 1 2

1. The worst-case scenario repair is a piece of plywood nailed directly

over a gaping roof hole. This is just meant to hold until the weather
event passes and proper repairs can be made. Nail the plywood directly
into joists, not just to the roof sheathing, or it may blow off. If possible,
use double-headed nails, which will be much easier to remove when
you’re ready to make a more comprehensive repair.

2. If you don’t have plywood on hand, use a frame of 1" × 2" lath to nail
down thick plastic sheeting or tarp. As with the plywood, nail the lath
(or any long scrap piece of lumber, including 2×4s) directly to the joists.
Make sure the plastic is taut.

Safe at Home

Working on any roof entails the danger of falling. Even if

you’re performing a brief inspection or simple repair, al-
ways secure yourself to the roof with fall arrest gear. These
vary from leashed harnesses to simple leash-and-safety
belts, but all are physically attached to the roof.

Exterior Concerns 149

 Replace Damaged Asphalt Shingles
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Although many inexperienced homeowners panic when they see damaged asphalt shingles—thinking the
entire roof needs replacing—this is actually a fairly easy repair project.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Pull out the damaged shingles, starting with the highest shingles and
working down. Work carefully to avoid damaging surrounding shingles.
• Ladder
• Fall arrest gear 2. Remove old nails in and above the repair with a pry bar or claw
• Heavy-duty work gloves hammer. Patch damaged felt paper with new roofing paper cut for the
• Pry bar or claw hammer patch and fastened in position with roofing cement.
• Hammer 3. Starting with the lowest replacement shingles, nail them in place.
• Roofing paper Drive 1" roofing nails above the tab slots.
• Caulk gun
4. Slip the final shingle under the overlapping shingles. Lift the shingles
• Roofing cement
right above the new shingles and nail the top replacement in place.

1 3 4

150 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Work with Flashing
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Flashing is made of galvanized sheet metal, aluminum, or, in some rare cases, copper (other acceptable ma-
terials like stainless steel are too expensive for common usage). Crafted into thin sheets, flashing is easy to
fabricate with basic tools and little expertise. The main skills you need are cutting and bending the metal to
different angles to suit various applications. Whenever you’re working with flashing, always wear heavy-duty
cut-proof gloves.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need

• Flashing
• Tin snips
• Heavy-duty gloves
• Marker
• Locking pliers or clamps
• Scrap 2×6
• Scrap 2×4

1. Cut new flashing with tin snips, using the old piece as a template.
This is especially useful for reproducing complicated flashing, such as
that around chimneys and dormers.

2. Bend flashing with a jig. There are lots of ways to make a jig, but the
easiest is the best. A 2×6 clamped to a work surface on edge is one
of the simplest. Slide a piece of flashing up to the bend point that has
been marked with a marker and clamp it in place with locking pliers or
clamps. Bend along the marked line using a wood block cut from a 2×4
scrap.

Exterior Concerns 151

 Replace Step Flashing
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

The flashing most prone to failure is step flashing. It is the protective metal layer between the roof and
square or rectangular structures that project out of the roof, like a dormer or a brick chimney. This is a com-
mon source of leaks; replacing damaged step flashing has to be done correctly to head off future problems.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Bend up any counter flashing or siding covering the damaged flash-
ing. Cut any seams sealed with roofing cement and carefully pull up the
• Ladder
shingles overlapping the flashing. Use a pry bar to remove the dam-
• Fall arrest gear
aged flashing. Buy replacement flashing to match. Pro Tip: Do not use
• Tin snips
aluminum flashing to flash a chimney or other masonry surface. The
• 2×4 (for use as a
mortar will corrode the aluminum.
bending jig)
• Pliers 2. Measure and mark the bend lines on the flashing with a marker, using
• Pry bar the old flashing as a template. Use tin snips and a jig to cut and bend
• Flashing the new flashing to match the old, grabbing it with pliers. Apply roofing
• Tape measure patch to the mating surfaces. Slip the new flashing in place so that it is
• Marker overlapped by the shingle higher on the roof and overlaps the flashing
• Roofing patch below.
• Caulk gun
3. Nail the new flashing to the roof deck with a single roofing nail. Lay
• Hammer
the shingles back down into place and seal all flashing joints with a
• Roofing nail
generous amount of roofing patch. Cut shingles with a utility knife to
• Utility knife
ensure a proper fit.
• Nails or screws

1 2 3

152 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Patch a Steel Gutter
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

There is a reason that most house gutters today are made of vinyl. That reason is rust. No matter how good
a metal gutter was when installed, inevitably, it will rust. The quick fix is to patch the gutter.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Scrub the entire area around and over the rotted section, using a wire
brush or steel wool. Rinse the surface with water and dry with an old
• Ladder
rag. Lay down a layer of roofing cement about 1⁄8" to 1⁄4" thick, covering
• Heavy-duty work gloves
the damaged area and a few inches more on all sides.
• Stiff wire brush or steel
wool 2. Measure, mark, cut, and bend a piece of flashing to fit over the dam-
• Rag aged area, using a bending jig. Press the flashing down into the bed of
• Roofing cement cement and feather out the edges with a putty knife to prevent dam-
• Flashing ming water flow.
• Tin snips
• Tape measure
• Marker
• Bending jig
• Putty knife

1 2

Exterior Concerns 153

 Repair Leaky Metal Downspout Joints
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Downspout connections are weak points in any gutter system but particularly with metal gutters. Fix the
problem at the first sign of leakage to head off even worse conditions.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Drill out rivets or unscrew screws to disassemble the problem joint.
Scrub the parts and especially the connection area with a wire brush or
• Heavy-duty work gloves
steel wool. Clean off the area with water and allow the sections to dry
• Power drill and bits
completely before continuing.
• Wire brush or steel wool
• Exterior-grade silicone 2. Lay a bead of exterior-grade silicone sealant around the joints and
sealant reassemble the L neck and downspout. Secure the connection with
• Sheet metal screws sheet metal screws.

1 2

154 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Upgrade to Vinyl Gutters
TIME: 2 hours (for average house) / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Snap-together vinyl gutters are simple

to install and an ideal replacement for
metal gutters that have passed their expi-
ration date. The system requires no special
tools or skills; the only mechanical fasten-
ers are screw-in hangers. However, gutters
of any sort require precise measurements
and in-depth planning. Think it through
and double-check all measurements and
you’ll wind up with a professional-looking
gutter installation that will go a long way
toward keeping the house safe from water
infiltration.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Mark a point at the high end of each gutter run, 1" down from the
drip edge, or top of the fascia. Mark at the opposite end, allowing for
• Vinyl gutter components
⁄4" drop per 10' of gutter. Drive brads at the two points and snap a chalk
1

• Ladder
line. For gutter runs longer than 35', mark the slope from the center,
• Carpenter’s pencil
down to each end.
• Tape measure
• Hammer 2. Screw downspout outlets to the fascia at the ends of the runs you
• Brads just marked (at least one downspout per 35' of gutter). Align the top
• Chalk line of the outlet flush with the chalk line and the edge with the end cap on
• Power drill and bits the house.
• 1 1⁄4" deck screws
• Hacksaw

1 2

continued 

Exterior Concerns 155

 3 4 5

6 7 8

3. Screw gutter hangers to the fascia, aligned with 7. Measure, mark, and use a hacksaw to cut a length
the chalk line, every 24". Use 1 ⁄4" deck screws.
1
of drainpipe to fit between two downspout elbows.
4. Screw inside and outside corner caps for the gut- One elbow will be connected to the outlet and the
ter, at any corner that isn’t fitted with outlets. other will be secured to the wall of the house. Snap
the parts together, secure the elbow in the outlet,
5. Measure, mark, and use a hacksaw to cut gutter
and fasten the opposite elbow to the wall with a
sections to run between corners and outlets. Attach
drainpipe hanger.
end caps and connect the gutter sections to the out-
lets. Measure, mark, cut and dry fit gutter sections to 8. Measure, mark, and use a hacksaw to cut a length
fit between outlets, allowing 1⁄16" to 1⁄8" at each joint for of drainpipe to run from the wall elbow down to end
expansion. of the drainpipe (which should terminate at least
12" above the ground). Attach an elbow to the drain
6. Connect gutter sections on the ground before in-
pipe end and secure it in place with drainpipe hang-
stalling them, using supplied connectors. Attach the
ers. Measure, mark, and cut a final drainpipe section
gutter hangers to the gutter sections and hang them
as needed to route water away from the foundation
on the support clips you installed.
and include a splash block as necessary.

156 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Tune Up a Garage Door
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Timely maintenance ensures that your garage door opens and closes at the push of a button, just as it
should. This is also a chance to check safety features before you really need them.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Test the door-opening safety features. Disconnect the opener so that
the door can be operated manually. Raise the door about 3' from the
• Scrap 2×4
ground and let go. If it slams shut, it’s unbalanced. Have a professional
• Ladder
balance it.
• Phillips screwdriver
• Batteries 2. Reconnect the opener and place a 2×4 across the garage door
• Lightbulbs (optional) threshold. Engage the opener to close the door. As soon as it contacts
the board, it should reverse. Do the same test, but this time wave your
hand or another object in front of the photocell sensors on either side
of the opening. The door should reverse when the connection between
the two is interrupted. If these tests point to a malfunction, contact a
professional garage door repairperson.

3. Check the battery backup by unplugging the garage door opener

and using the car or wall control to open the door. If the door doesn’t
open, replace the backup batteries. This usually entails unscrewing a
cover on the central unit to access the backup batteries. Replace the
bulbs in the opener with matching bulbs and the batteries in opener
remotes at the same time.

Safe at Home
Garage door cables and
springs are kept under
high tension. Loosening
a cable or spring can
result in serious injury
and should only be done
by professionals. Garage
doors are also remarkably
heavy. If you’re doing
work with one in the
open position, clamp a
C-clamp onto each roller
track to ensure the door
doesn’t accidently fall.

Exterior Concerns 157

 Adjust Garage Door and Track Position
TIME: 30 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Binding is one of the most common garage door problems. Track misalignment is usually to blame. The pro-
cess of realigning tracks and the garage door is one of trial and error but will lead to smooth, quiet operation
that increases the door opener longevity.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Close the garage door. Check the gap alongside each edge. It should
be uniform—normally 1⁄2" to 3⁄4" between door edge and track. Use a
• Tape measure
wrench to loosen the lag screw on one bracket and adjust the position
• Box wrenches or
of the bracket to move the track. Repeat with the other brackets as
crescent wrench
necessary until the track is aligned with the door edge.
• White lithium grease
spray 2. Spray white lithium grease into the seam between the hinge bracket
• Rag and the pin collar on each door hinge. Spray the lubricant into the roller
bearings (or roller axle if there are no bearings) on the door rollers.
Clean up any overspray with a rag.

1 2 2

158 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Repair Foundation Wall Cracks
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Foundation walls are subject to cracking as the ground and structure shift over time. A significant crack
presents an avenue for water to leak into a basement or crawl space and leads to conditions such as rot or
mold. Deal with a crack from the inside.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Be sure the crack is stable and hasn’t undermined the entire founda-
tion wall or structure. Chisel out a “keyhole” cut, larger at the bottom
• Flashlight (optional)
than at the top. The cavity should wind up no more than 1⁄2" deep. Clean
• Chisel
out loose debris with a wire brush.
• Hammer
• Wire brush 2. Carefully fill the crack with expanding insulating foam, working from
• Expanding spray foam the bottom to the top.
• Hydraulic cement 3. For larger cracks, mix a small batch of hydraulic cement in a buck-
• Bucket et, following the instructions on the bag. Use a small trowel to fill the
• Trowel crack. Apply the cement in thin layers until it is built up slightly above
the surface of the wall, then feather it into the surrounding surface.
Let dry.

1 2 3

White Flag
If there are multiple large cracks in a foundation or basement wall, or if the planes of the crack are mis-
aligned, you likely won’t be able to rectify the situation. But it does need rectifying. Contact a foundation
contractor who has relationships with structural engineers. Those professionals will be able to assess the
situation and recommend an ideal solution to prevent further structural damage.

Exterior Concerns 159

 Install a Foundation French Drain
TIME: 3 hours / SKILL LEVEL: Easy

Natural drainage around a house is rarely ideal. Water should efficiently drain away from the structure and
especially the foundation. Standing water can easily infiltrate a basement or crawl space, leading to many
serious problems. Water pooling around structures like fences or gazebos can quickly undermine those
structures. There is a simple, permanent solution to most drainage problems, and it’s called a French drain. It
requires little expertise but a lot of hard labor. That’s a small price to pay to protect the home foundation or
other critical features in the yard or landscape.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Decide where you want to direct runoff water. Ideally, it should be
funneled to a curb or a place in your landscape that can absorb run-
• Tape measure
off. Do not direct water onto a neighbor’s property. Optional: If you’re
• Work gloves
installing a French drain for an area other than the house foundation,
• Landscape paint or lime mark the trench borders with landscape paint or lime.
(optional)
• Garden spade or shovel 2. Remove and preserve any sod covering the trench location. Dig a
• Landscape fabric trench at least 18" deep and 1' wide. (If you’re installing the drain along
• Coarse gravel or a full-height basement wall with significant water pooling, the trench
landscaping stone can be as deep as 4' to effectively drain excess water.) The trench must
• 4" perforated pipe, or slope 1" for every 10', in the direction you want the water to drain.
4" PVC pipe
3. Line the trench with landscape fabric or other permeable filtering
• 4" × 4" × 6' board or
fabric. The fabric should run up the sides about 6" to 8" above the
similar tamper
trench lip on either side. Add 3" of gravel or landscaping stone to cre-
• Power drill and bits
(optional) ate a drainage bed. If the gravel is fine, tamp it down.
• Steel rake 4. Lay perforated pipe along the gravel bed (this is sometimes sold as
• Sod or ground cover “drain tile”). Cover the pipe with gravel and fold the extra landscape
(optional)
fabric over the top of the gravel.
• Sod roller
Optional: For a more durable solution in a straight trench, or where the
trench is deeper, use 4" PVC pipe instead of perforated pipe. Drill 1⁄8"
holes every 4" to 6" all along and around the pipe before laying it in the
trench.

160 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

3 4

5. Replace the soil in the trench and tamp down with

a 4" × 4" board or similar tamper. Moisten the soil,
rake the top, and lay the preserved sod over the soil
(or replace with new sod or ground cover). Roll it
with a sod roller or similar to seat the sod.

Safe at Home
Call the local utility before installing a French drain to determine
the location of any underground wires or pipes. Local utility com-
panies will come out and mark the location of any underground

Exterior Concerns 161

 Stop Deck Sway
TIME: 1 hour / SKILL LEVEL: Challenging

There are few things as unsettling as having your elevated deck start swaying. Remedy the problem imme-
diately to prevent structural damage or injury. It’s important to note that this repair should only be made to
an otherwise sound deck. If the problem is part of a large rot problem or the consequence of a poorly built
deck, rebuild the deck. This project requires a helper.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure down 24" from where a corner post intersects a beam. Mark
that spot with a carpenter’s pencil.
• Tape measure
• Carpenter’s pencil 2. Measure and mark 24" out from the face of the post along both sides
• Band saw or miter saw of the beam. Measure diagonally from these marks down to the post
• Power drill and bits mark and add 4"; this is the length of the brace. Cut the brace with a
• 6" lag screws and band saw or a miter saw, making multiple cuts (or have it cut to length
washers at a home center or lumberyard). The brace should be the same stock
• Carriage bolts (optional) as the post. Current codes call for 6" × 6" posts. Note: Local codes may
call for a different technique to mount the beam on top of the post
than is shown here.

1 2

162 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

3 4

3. Have a helper hold the brace in place diagonally

between the marks on the post and the beam so
that the marks are right in the middle of the brace.
Use the post edge and beam bottom edge to mark
the brace for the angled cuts. Cut the beam or have
it cut at a lumberyard.

4. Have a helper hold the brace in position and drill

two countersunk pilot holes at each end for the lag
screws (top).

5. Fasten the brace to the beam and post with 6"

lag screws. If you have to fasten the brace between
two sides of a sandwich beam as shown here, drill
through the both sides and the brace and secure the
brace with carriage bolts.

Exterior Concerns 163

 Remedy a Spongy Deck
TIME: 90 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

If the deck seems to be springy or soft underfoot, take these simple steps to ensure structural integrity.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Measure the space between the joists. This should be standardized
and is usually 16" on center, although some builders use 12" spacing
• Tape measure
for greater strength. Measure between each joist pair, because settling
• Circular saw
may have caused slight differences in spacing. Use a circular saw to cut
• 2" × 6" lumber
blocking to go between the joists, from 2" × 6" lumber.
• Ladder
• Hammer 2. Measure and mark the center of the joists on either side of the deck.
• Penny nails Hammer a penny nail at those points and use them to anchor a chalk
• Chalk line line, running across the centers of all the joints. Snap the chalk line to
• 3" deck screws mark the joists.
• Power drill and bits 3. Tap the blocking into the space between the joists so that alternating
blocks are on opposite sides of the chalk line.

4. Drive 3" galvanized deck screws through the face of each joist into
the ends of the blocking. Use three screws per end.

2 3 4

164 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Patch a Hole in Concrete
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Unless it has been laid correctly and given exactly the right amount of time to cure, a concrete surface
will eventually be subjected to degradation. Small and large holes can be the result of physical damage or
“spaulding” over time, a process in which pieces of the concrete fracture and break off. A permanent fix is
a matter of providing a clean bed for the patch.

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Mark straight cut lines around the damaged area. Cut along the lines
using a circular saw with a masonry blade. Set the blade to cut away
• Work gloves
from the center at a 15° angle, and make the cut with the saw’s shoe
• Straightedge
riding on a 1× scrap board.
• Marker
• Circular saw with 2. Chisel out the damaged area down to rough aggregate. This gives
masonry blade the new patch a good surface on which to bond. Clean out any loose
• 1× scrap board debris with a wire brush.
• Chisel 3. Prepare sand-mix concrete with acrylic fortifier, and use a trowel to
• Hammer
cover the damaged patch just slightly higher than the surrounding area.
• Wire brush
• Sand-mix concrete with 4. Use a float to smooth and feather the patch into the surrounding
acrylic fortifier surface. Re-create any surface effect, such as broom strokes. Cover
• Trowel with plastic sheeting and protect from foot traffic for at least 48 hours.
• Concrete float
• 6-mil plastic sheeting

1 3 4

Exterior Concerns 165

 Repair Concrete Cracks
TIME: 45 minutes / SKILL LEVEL: Moderate

Concrete walls, walkways, and driveways all have a tendency to crack over time because the ground is
constantly shifting and concrete isn’t very flexible. The solution for a given concrete crack depends on the
size and location of the damage.

SIZE SURFACE PATCH

<1⁄4" wide Vertical Concrete caulk (temporary solution)

>1⁄4" wide Vertical Vinyl-reinforced concrete or hydraulic cement

<1⁄2" wide Horizontal Vinyl-reinforced concrete patching compound

>1⁄2" wide Horizontal Fortified sand-mix concrete

How You Do It
What You’ll Need
1. Clean out loose debris from the crack using a wire brush. For larger
cracks, use a power drill with a wire wheel attachment.
• Wire brush
• Power drill with wire 2. Prepare the crack for filling by chiseling it out to create a keyhole
wheel attachment cut (wider at the bottom than the top). Clean out any remaining debris
(optional) with the wire brush.
• Stone chisel
3. Thoroughly coat the crack with latex bonding agent using a 1" to 2"
• Hammer
paintbrush. Mix a small batch of vinyl-reinforced patching compound
• Latex bonding agent
and trowel it into the crack. Feather the surface with the trowel to level
• 1" to 2" paintbrush
it flush with the surrounding area and blend the edges. Cover a hori-
• Vinyl-reinforced
zontal surface with plastic sheeting and protect it from foot traffic for
patching compound
7 days. Optional: For larger, deeper cracks on horizontal surfaces,
• Trowel
prepare as above, but then pour sand into the crack to within 1⁄2" of the
• 6-mil plastic sheeting
surface. Make a small batch of sand-mix concrete and add a fortifier.
• Sand-mix concrete
Trowel the concrete into the crack, leveling the top to match the sur-
with acrylic fortifier
(optional) rounding surface and feathering the edges to blend.

166 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

1 2

3 3

Pro Tip
There’s a reason you’ll find so many concrete products on the home center shelf. Each has its own best
application. When it comes to patching concrete holes, for instance, size matters. Smaller holes less than
1
⁄2” deep are best filled with a vinyl-reinforced concrete patch product. For deeper holes and cracks, use
a sand-mix concrete fortified with acrylic or latex. In both cases, follow the manufacturer’s mixing and
application directions for best results.

Exterior Concerns 167

 Yearly Maintenance
Calendar
This calendar is meant as a foundation for customizing your own. Change frequency or
season of a given listing (such as replacing a furnace filter) depending on where you live,
how many people live in the house, and your own preferences.

January April
• Replace furnace filter. • Clean gutters.
• Replace batteries in all home remotes, including • Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
ceiling fans and garage door openers. • Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors; re- • Reverse ceiling fan direction.
place the backup batteries.
• Test GFCI receptacles.
• Drain water heater water and sediment.
• Have septic system inspected by a professional.
• Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Clean faucet aerators in all faucets.
• Test GFCI receptacles.
• Clean showerheads with vinegar or scum-
removing cleanser.
February
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. May
• Inspect home fire extinguishers. • Replace furnace filter.
• Test garage door auto-reverse functions. • Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Test GFCI receptacles. • Clean air-conditioning condensers and clean or
replace filters.

March • Inspect home fire extinguishers.

• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. • Test garage door auto-reverse functions.

• Replace furnace filter. • Test GFCI receptacles.

• Inspect home fire extinguishers

• Test GFCI receptacles.

168 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

June October
• Clean windows and repair or replace damaged • Have professional clean fireplace chimney.
screens.
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Test basement sump pump, if any.
• Clean refrigerator coils and condenser.
• Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Test GFCI receptacles.
• Test GFCI receptacles.
• Turn off water supply to exterior hose bibs to
• Check the water heater anode for wear. prevent freezing. Open those faucets to drain all
water out of the pipe.

July
• Replace furnace filter. November
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. • Replace furnace filter.
• Inspect home fire extinguishers. • Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Test GFCI receptacles. • Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Test garage door auto-reverse functions.
August • Test GFCI receptacles.
• Inspect caulked joints around doors and windows
and replace worn caulk. December
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Clean gutters.
• Test GFCI receptacles.
• Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Test water-main shutoff valve.
• Test GFCI receptacles.

September
• Replace furnace filter.
• Patch concrete walkways and seal asphalt
driveways.
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Inspect roof for missing or damaged shingles and
flashing, and repair or replace as necessary.
• Check weather stripping around doors and
windows and replace any that is failing.
• Change the ceiling fan direction.
• Inspect home fire extinguishers.
• Test GFCI receptacles.
• Clean faucet aerators in all faucets.
• Clean showerheads with vinegar or scum-
removing cleanser.

Yearly Maintenance Calendar 169

 Conversion Chart

CONVERTING MEASUREMENTS
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2

170 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Resources and Photo Credits 171
 Resources

Black + Decker
Tools, project instructions, and more
www.blackanddecker.com

Chimney Safety Institute of America

Advice and information about chimney maintenance,
safety, and more
www.csia.org/homeowners.html

Forest Stewardship Council

Information on sustainable wood products for the
home
www.us.fsc.org

National Association of Home Builders (NAHB)

Basic home maintenance and repair information for
homeowners
www.nahb.org

National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA)

Industry association offering remodeling advice and
connection to qualified experts
www.nkba.org

National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA)

Offers a consumer section with listings for contrac-
tors and in-depth information on roofing
www.nrca.net

U .S . Department of Energy
Guidance on conserving energy, choosing home en-
ergy options, and saving on energy bills
www.energy.gov/energysaver/energy-saver

Photo Credits
[LIST PHOTO CREDITS HERE]

172 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

Index

A D
air leaks, sealing, 18 deadbolt, installing, 43
air-conditioning, 11 decks
central, 11, 26 sponginess, 164
ductless, 11, 28 sway, 162–63
localized, 11 dimmer switch, 108–9
attic, insulating, 16–17 doors
bifold closet, 52
bypass closet, 53–54
B garage, 157–58
backsplash, 132–33 prehung exterior, 46–48
basement, 5 prehung interior, 49
bathroom exhaust fan, venting, 24 replacing rollers for, 56–57
bathroom fan, replacing, 23 sagging, 44
bathtub, recaulking, 89 sliding glass doors, 56
sliding tub doors, 86–87
sticking, 45
C storm door, 50–51
cast iron, 63 types, 41
caulk, 20 downspout joints, repairing, 154
ceiling fan drain-waste-vent (DWV) system, 8–9, 62
balancing, 28 dryer vent
hanging, 36–37 cleaning, 38
wobbly, 38 installing, 39
ceiling fixtures, 118–21 drywall
cellulose, 16 hole/crack, 128
circuit tester, 7 nail pops, 127
circular saw, 7 repairing large hole, 129
concrete
patching hole in, 165
repairing cracks in, 166–67 E
copper, 63 electric/radiant system, 10
replacing pipe, 92 electrical issues, 102–4
corner, repairing, 130 electrical service, 8
countertop, cleaning, 136–37 evaporator drain line, cleaning, 27
cracked tile, replacing, 145–46 exterior, 147
crawl space, 5
insulating, 18

Index 173
 F exterior of, 147–67
faucets heating/cooling, 10–39
ball faucet, 73 interior surfaces of, 122–46
centerset, 74–75 plumbing in, 62–101
compression, 70 safety in, 5
hands-free, 66–67 services/fixtures, 8–9
single-handle cartridge, 71 structural openings, 40–61
washerless two-handle, 72
widespread, 76
fiberglass, 16 I
fire detectors, installing insulation
battery-operated, 21 attic, 16–17
hardwire, 21 crawl space, 19
fire extinguisher, 9 integral shutoffs, 64
fixture shutoffs, 64 interior, painting, 124–27
flapper valve, replacing, 95
flashing, 151
floating shelf, 131 L
flush valve, replacing, 98–99 laminate floor
forced-air system, 10 damaged plank, 144
foundation french drain, 160–61 installing, 138–40
foundation walls, repairing, 159 modifying, 141
furnace filter, replacing, 29 levels, 6
lockset, installing, 42

G
garage door, 157 M
adjusting, 158 mineral wool, 16
GFCI, upgrading to, 113 multipurpose electrician’s tool, 7
gutters
patching, 153
replacing with vinyl, 155–56 N
NM cable, stripping, 105

H
hammer, 6 P
handtools, 6–7 pedestal sink, 80–81
heat pumps, 11 PEX, 63, 93
heating ducts, 33 pinch connection, 93–94
heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning pipe, patching, 91
(HVAC) system, 9 pliers, 7
types, 10–11 plumbing, 62–64. See also faucets
hot-water pipes, 32 pop-up drain
house replacing plug, 85
anatomy of, 4–5 stopper, 69–69
electrical issues, 102–21 post-and-pier, 4

174 The Essential Home Skills Handbook

power drill, 7 toilet fill valve, replacing, 96–97
power tools, 7 tool belt, 7
PVC pipes/valves, 63 TV, wall-mounting, 134–35

R U
raceway conduit, 110–12 under-cabinet lighting, 116–17
radiator air vent, 31 utility knife, 7
random orbital sander, 7
reciprocating saw, 7
roof V
asphalt shingles, 150 ventilation, 11
emergency repairs, 149 video doorbell, 55
locating leaks, 148
rotary tool, 7
W
water heater, 9
S maintaining, 90
saw horse, 7
scratches, removing, 143 water softener, 78–79
screwdriver set, 6 wax ring, replacing, 100–101
shop vacuum, 7 weather stripping
shower temperature, adjusting, 84 peel-and-stick, 13
shutoff valve, leaking, 91 V-strip door, 12–13
sink, unclogging, 82 windows
slab, 5 applying film, 14–15
sprayer head, leaking, 77 casement window crank, 60
squeaking, 142 curing sticking window, 59
stainless steel, 63 replacing glass of, 58
steam-heat radiator, 32 screens, 61
steam/hot water system, 10 types, 40
step flashing, 152 wires,
stick framing, 5 color/size of, 103
stud finder, 6 working with, 106–7
supply lines, 64 wrenches, adjustable, 6
supply shutoffs, 64
surface construction, 123
surge protector, 114–15

T
tape measure, 6
temperature-pressure relief (TPR) valve, 90
thermostat, 34–35
thermostatic radiator valve (TRV), 30–31
tiled surface, regrouting, 88

Index 175