Textile Dyeing & Printing,TEX-221

(Pretreatment)
S.M.Tausif
Lecturer
Premier University
Pretreatment : is the processes applied on the textile material
(yarn or fabrics) to prepare the material for dyeing,printing or
finishing,as the grey material will have a lot of
impurities,these hampering the further processes,has to be
removed to make the fabric more absorbent for
bleaching,dyeing or finishing.
Objectives of pretreatment:
1. To remove natural impurities (oil,wax) contained in fibers
2. To remove sizing materials from woven fabrics
3. To improve absorbency of the fabrics make the fabric
hydrophylic
4. Make the fabric suitable for dyeing (uniform color
achievement)
Name of the pretreatment processes:
singeing,desizing,scouring,bleaching,mercerizing,Heatsetting
Flow chart for wet processing:
What is singing?
Singeing in textiles is a process that burns off loose or
protruding fibers from the surface of yarn or fabric to
create a smooth, even surface.
Benefits of Singeing:
Improved Appearance: Creates a smooth, even surface
with enhanced luster.
Better Dyeing/Printing: Removes loose fibers that can
interfere with dye uptake and printing quality.
Reduced Pilling: Eliminates loose fibers that can cause
pilling.
Easier Finishing: Creates a more uniform surface for
subsequent finishing processes
Gas singeing is a process where fabric passes over a
burning gas flame, allowing protruding fibers to burn
off without damaging the main body of fibric.
Desizing
Desizing in textile is the process of removing sizing
agents, like starch, from warp yarns after weaving.
Objectives of Desizing Process:
• To remove the starch material from the fabric.
• To increase the absorbency power of the fabric.
• To increase the affinity of the fabric to the dyes &
chemicals.
• To make the fabric suitable for the next process.
Fabric is treated with 0.4-0.6% NaOH solution at 60-
70˚C & stored for 8-10 hours for desizing
 Biopolishing
is a textile finishing process that uses enzymes, like
cellulase, to improve fabric quality by removing
protruding fibers, reducing hairiness and pilling,
and softening the fabric's hand. This process can be
used on various cellulosic fabrics, including cotton,
linen, and viscose.
Before and after biopolishing
 Bio-polishing of 100% cotton knitted fabric with
cellulase Enzyme
Experiment Name: Bio-polishing of 100% cotton knitted
fabric with cellulase Enzyme.
Theory: Bio-polishing is a process that enhances fabric
quality by decreasing the pilling tendency or fuzziness of
cotton fabrics. This finishing process applied to both
cotton fabrics or garments that produces permanent
effect by the use of Enzymes. This process removes
protruding fibres and slubs from cotton fabrics
significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric and provide a
smooth fabric appearance.
Name of sample : 100% Cotton knitted gray fabric.
Apparatus required: i) Beakers.ii) Glass Rod.iii)
Pipette.iv)Measuring Cylinder.v) pH meter.vi) Tri-pod
Stand.vii) Gas Burner.viii) Thermometer.ix) pot
Process Sequence:
Collection of 100% cotton knitted fabric

Bio Polishing of 100% cotton fabric at 50oC for 15

minutes

Rising temperature to 80oC for 3 minutes

cold rinsing

hot wash

cold rinsing

Drying
Recipe of bio-polishing ;
Cellulase Enzyme:- 1% (Stock Solution 1%)
Wetting agent :- 1g/L (Stock Solution 1%)
Acetic acid :- 0.8 g/L (Stock Solution 1%)
Fabric weight :- 5gm M:L :- 1:30 Required Dye = (Shade percentage (%) x
Temperature :- 55°C
pH :- 4.5 - 5.5 Time :- 15 minute
Weight of the fabric in gram / Stock
solution.
Calculation: For auxiliaries = Recipe amount (g/L)×
Total Liquor required total liquor/ 1000 × stock solution
Fabric Weight = 5gm M: L = 1:30
Required amount of liquor = 5 X 30 = 150mL
Enzyme required: 1% = (5X1%) / 1%= 5mL
Wetting agent : 1g/L= (150 X 1g/L) / (1% x 1000)= 15ml
Acetic Acid : 0.8g/L= (150 X 0.8g/L) / (1% X 1000)= 12mL
Initial Water required = Total liquor- Chemicals = 150 - (12+15+5) = 150-32 mL =118mL
Functions of Chemicals:
Wetting Agent: wetting agent is substances that reduce the surface tension of water to allow it
to spread drops onto a surface, increasing the spreading abilities of a liquid. Lowering the
surface tension.
Acetic Acid: Acetic acid used for maintain pH 4.5-5.5. Because the cellulase Enzyme works in
acidic medium.
Cellulase Enzyme: The hydrolysis action of the enzyme wreakers the protruding fibers, when
small physical abrasion force is sufficient to break and remove them.
* Point out the four special properties of enzyme
 scouring
Scouring is the process of removes natural
impurities from the fabrics like oils, waxes, and fats.
Objectives:
• The main purpose of scouring is to remove
impurities from the textile materials.
• To make the fabric highly hydrophilic..
• To remove non-cellulosic substance in case of
cotton.
• To make the textile material suitable for the
subsequent bleaching ,dyeing operations.
 Key Chemical Components
Alkali: Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is a common
choice to break down fats and waxes.
Detergents: Help emulsify oils and suspend
impurities in water.
Sequestering agent/Chelating Agents: Remove
metal ions from water
Surfactants: Lower surface tension, easy
penetration in fabrics
Absorbency test
In a pipette a solution of 1% direct red (Congo
red) is taken and droplet of solution put on the
different places of the fabric. Then the shape of
the absorption area on the fabric is observed.

Recipe,curve & weight loss calculation from lab report

 Bleaching
Bleaching in wet processing is the removal process of
the natural color from textile substrates (fabric or
garments) the discoloration takes place by the breaking
the chromophore of the grey fabric.
Objectives of the Bleaching Process
1.Remove the natural raw hue of the grey fabric.
2.To make a permanent white effect.
3.Make the textile fabric bright and white.
4.Increasing the absorbency power and dye affinity of
textile fabric.Prepare for fabric for the dyeing process.
5.To obtain an even hue in the final product.
6.Better Dyeing and Printing outputs
Padding machine for
Winch dyeing machine for knit
woven

Also applicable for scouring,bleaching,dyeing process

Recipe:
H2O2 (50% conc.): 4 gm/L
NaOH : Adjustable (to maintain PH 10.5)
Sodium Silicate (Stabilizer) : 1-2 gm/L
Surfactant : 3 gm/L
EDTA (Metal Chelating Agent): 1 gm/L
Time: 60 mints
Temp : 90 ℃ M:L =1:20
After H2O2 Bleaching need an Acetic Acid wash to
neutralize residual Alkali.
If we need to improve whiteness and brightness we
need to use OBA.
PH: For H2O2 bleaching PH is one of the crucial factors,
in general PH 10.5 is mostly used for Cotton. Above PH
10.5, bleaching is very fast, and below PH 10.5, takes a
long time to finish Bleaching. But for Silk and Wool PH
range is 8-9.
Stabilizer: Stabilizers in bleachinng chemicals that slow
down the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide Sodium
Silicate are used for Stabilizer. By preventing excessive
decomposition, stabilizers can reduce the risk of fabric
damage.
sequestering agent: H2O2 is very sensitive to metal
ions. In presence of Fe, and Cu it gets decomposed. So,
both water and fabric must be free from any kind of
metal ion. Sometimes it has seen fine holes all over the
fabric. To remove metal ion sequestering or Metal
chelating (EDTA) Agent”.
Bleaching mechanism:
Hydrogen peroxide to break down and remove color-causing substances from the
fabric. This process is enhanced by the addition of alkali (like sodium hydroxide)
and temperature, which promotes the generation of reactive oxygen destroy the
colorants.
Dissociation and Activation:
• Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) in water dissociates into a hydronium ion (H₃O+) and
a perhydroxyl ion (HO₂-).
• Alkali (like sodium hydroxide) neutralizes the H₃O+, facilitating the
decomposition of the perhydroxyl ion, which is the active bleaching agent.
• Temperature increase, especially when the solution is alkaline, further
accelerates the decomposition and activation of hydrogen peroxide.
 Mercerization
mercerization is a chemical treatment applied to cotton fibres or fabrics to impart
a greater affinity for dyes and various chemical finishes.
The fabric is then immersed in a caustic soda solution at a high concentration,
typically between 18-22%, for a period of time, which can range from a few
seconds to several minutes. The temperature of the solution is usually maintained
between 20-25 degrees Celsius
Objectives of mercerisation:
• Increased Luster:
Mercerization makes cotton fibers smoother and rounder, resulting in a shinier,
more lustrous appearance.
• Improved Strength:
The process increases the tensile strength of cotton fibers, making them more
durable
Enhanced Dye Absorption:
Mercerization increases the affinity of cotton fibers for dyes, allowing for deeper,
more vibrant, and uniform color absorption.
• Improved Dimensional Stability:
Mercerization helps to reduce fabric shrinkage and make it more dimensionally
stable,
• Other Benefits:
Mercerization can also improve elasticity, moisture absorbency, and the overall feel
and smoothness of the fabric.
The cross section of cotton is kidney shape structure,When cellulose is immersed
in a solution of caustic soda , the material swells. The fibre hair quickly become
untwist from its twisted ribbon like form and tends to become cylindrical rodlike
surface due to deconvolution. The cross -section of the fibre become round from
kidney shape structure,. The surface of the nearly cylindrical cotton fiber after
mercerizing reflects light more evenly to all sides than the kidney shaped cotton
fiber and the fibre surface becomes more lustrous.
When cross section of the fiber become round shape the lumen is
disappared.After washing and drying the cross section of the fiber maintains its
round shape.