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Tanzania 4th Edition Mary Fitzpatrick
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On the Road
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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© Lonely Planet Publications
9
Contents
On the Road 4 Zanzibar
Archipelago 106
ZANZIBAR 108
Tanzania Highlights 5 Zanzibar Town 109
Around Zanzibar 128
PEMBA 142
Destination Chake Chake 143
Tanzania 11 Around Chake Chake
AROUND PEMBA
146
147
Kiweni 147
Getting Started 12 Mkoani & Around 147
Wambaa 148
Itineraries 15 Pujini Ruins
Wete
148
149
Tumbe 151
History 19 Ngezi
Kigomasha Peninsula
151
151
Offshore Islands 152
The Culture 28
Northeastern
Safaris 36 Tanzania 153
Bagamoyo 154
Trekking 49 Saadani National Park
Pangani
158
160
Tanga 164
Around Tanga 167
Wildlife & Habitat 57 Muheza 168
Korogwe 168
Environment 73 USAMBARA MOUNTAINS
Amani Nature Reserve
168
169
Lushoto 170
Food & Drink 79 Around Lushoto
PARE MOUNTAINS
174
176
Ngorongoro
Conservation Area 221 Western Tanzania 257 Mbeya
Around Mbeya
291
295
Karatu 224 Tabora 259 Tukuyu 297
Olduvai Gorge 226 Kigoma 262 Lake Nyasa 298
Engaruka 226 Ujiji 265 Mbinga 300
Lake Natron 227 Gombe Stream National Songea 301
Lake Eyasi 228 Park 265 Tunduru 303
Mahale Mountains
Central Tanzania 230 National Park
Uvinza
267
269 Southeastern
Dodoma
Babati
231
235
Mpanda
Katavi National Park
269
270
Tanzania 304
Mafia 306
Mt Hanang 236 Sumbawanga 271 Selous Game Reserve 311
Kolo-Kondoa Rock Art Kasanga & Kalambo Kilwa Masoko 316
Sites 236 Falls 272 Around Kilwa Masoko 318
Kondoa 237
Lindi 320
Shinyanga 238
Southern Mtwara 322
Nzega
Singida
239
239 Highlands 273 Mikindani
Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma
326
Morogoro 274 Estuary Marine Park 327
Lake Victoria 240 Mikumi National Park
Mikumi
278
279
Makonde Plateau &
Around 328
Musoma 241 Udzungwa Mountains
Lukuba Island
Bunda
243
244
National Park
Iringa
280
282 Directory 331
Mwanza 244 Around Iringa 285
Around Mwanza
Mwanza to Bukoba
250
251
Ruaha National Park
Iringa to Makambako
286
288
Transport 346
Rubondo Island National Makambako 289
Park
Bukoba
252
253
Njombe
Kitulo National Park
289
290
Health 362
Language 371
Regional Map Contents Glossary 276
Behind the Scenes 378
Lake Victoria
p241
Northern
Index 382
Tanzania
p181
GreenDex 389
Central Tanzania
p231
Northeastern
Tanzania p155
World Time Zones 390
Western Tanzania
p258
Zanzibar
Archipelago
p107
Map Legend 392
Dar es Salaam
p86
Southern Highlands
p274
Southeastern
Tanzania
p305
© Lonely Planet Publications
11
Destination Tanzania
Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Kilimanjaro, Zanzibar… The names roll off the
tongue like a roster call of Africa’s most alluring destinations, all packed
into one country. Resonating with hints of the wild and exotic, these
four alone are reason enough to justify packing your bag and heading off
to Tanzania. But the list isn’t finished. Bagamoyo, Tabora, Ujiji – stops
on the 19th-century caravan routes into the heart of what was then an
unknown continent. Mafia and Pangani – once famed ports of call for
merchant ships from the Orient. Kilwa – linchpin of a far-flung Indian
Ocean trading network. Kigoma, Kalema, Kipili, Kasanga – bustling
outposts along the remote Lake Tanganyika shoreline. Selous – Africa’s
largest protected area. Ruaha and Katavi – insider tips for serious safari-
goers. Mahale and Gombe – prime destinations for seeing chimpanzees
in the wild.
Within the space of several hours, it’s possible to go from lazing on
idyllic beaches to exploring moss-covered ruins of ancient Swahili city-
states; from climbing mist-covered slopes in the Southern Highlands to
trekking through the barren landscapes around Ol Doinyo Lengai, guided FAST FACTS
by a spear-carrying Maasai warrior. Yet, despite its attractions, Tanzania Population: 37.6 million
has managed for the most part to remain unassuming and low-key. It Highest point: Mt
has also remained enviably untouched by the tribal rivalries and political Kilimanjaro (5896m)
upheavals that plague many of its neighbours, and this – combined with
Lowest point: floor of
a booming tourism industry – makes it an ideal choice for both first-time
Lake Tanganyika (358m
visitors and Africa old hands.
below sea level)
Throughout, Tanzania offers travellers an array of options, set against
the backdrop of a cultural mosaic in which over 100 ethnic groups Inflation: 5%
amicably rub shoulders. While most visitors head straight for the famed HIV/AIDS infection rate:
northern wildlife-watching circuit, followed by time relaxing on Zanzi- 6.5%
bar’s beaches, Tanzania has much more to offer anyone with the time and
Mainland population
inclination to head off the beaten path. Follow the coastline south into a
density: 40 per sq km
Swahili culture whose rhythms have remained in many ways unchanged
over the centuries. Journey through rolling hill country along the Tanzam Zanzibar Archipelago
highway, detouring to Ruaha National Park. Admire ancient rock paint- population density: 400
ings around Kolo village. Explore the Lake Victoria shoreline, with its per sq km
small fishing villages and tranquil islands. Experience the seldom-visited Female cabinet ministers:
wilderness of Katavi, teeming with buffaloes and hippos. seven out of 29
If you’re seeking creature comforts, stick to the northern safari circuit Literacy rate: 76%
and Zanzibar, where there are sealed main roads and many hotels and
restaurants. Elsewhere, and especially in the south and west, you’ll soon Elephant population in
find yourself well off the beaten path, surrounded by a Tanzania that’s Ruaha National Park:
far removed from Western development. c 12,000
Wherever you go, take advantage of opportunities to get to know Tan-
zanians. With their characteristic warmth and politeness, and the dignity
and beauty of their cultures, it is they who will inevitably wind up being
the highlight of any visit. Chances are that you’ll want to come back for
more, to which most Tanzanians will say ‘karibu tena’ (welcome again).
© Lonely Planet Publications
12
Getting Started
Tanzania has a fast-growing selection of hotels, safari lodges and restaurants,
plus good air connections between major destinations, a wide array of tour op-
erators and a range of amenities for midrange and top-end travellers. However,
once away from popular destinations, or if you’re travelling anywhere at the
budget level, or to really get under the country’s skin, you’ll need to put in time
on rough roads on crowded buses and staying in basic guesthouses.
Whatever your style, there’s plenty to keep you busy – everything from
trekking and safaris to lazing on the beach or watching local life. Costs are
For more information, see comparatively high, topping out especially for upmarket safari lodges and
Climate Charts on p335. the popular northern safari circuit, although it’s possible to keep expenses
modest if you travel and dine local style.
While there’s no problem with sorting out your itinerary once in-country,
it’s best to prebook safaris and accommodation for popular destinations dur-
ing the high season. An exception to this is budget safaris and treks, where
you can often save a bit by sorting things out on the ground.
WHEN TO GO
Tanzania can be visited during all seasons. The weather is coolest and driest
from late June to September, although in July and August, hotels and park
lodges, especially in the north, are at their fullest. October and November are
very pleasant, with fewer crowds and a slowly greening-up landscape as the short
rains begin in many areas. From late December until February, temperatures
are high, but not oppressive. Watch out for high-season hotel prices around the
Christmas–New Year holidays, as well as during the July-August peak.
During the main rainy season (March to May), you can save substantially
For tips on saving money on accommodation costs, and enjoy landscapes that are green and full of life.
see p341. However, some secondary roads may be impassable, and this is the time when
many hotels close for a month or so, especially along the coast. Malaria risk,
especially in coastal and low-lying areas, also tends to be higher at this time.
y ik a odoma
IN D IA
TOP 10 TA N Z
ANIA Dar es S
OCEA N
alaam
N
ALLURING PANORAMAS
Tanzania’s topography ranges from lushly forested mountains to stunning tropical coastlines,
and provides a magnificent backdrop for the country’s diverse cultural palette. Some of the most
impressive panoramas:
1 the wildebeest migration in the Serengeti 7 sunset or sunrise from almost anywhere
(p216) around Lake Victoria (p240), but especially
2 elephants wading into the Rufiji River (p311) from Lukuba Island (p243), Musoma (p241)
against a backdrop of borassus palms or Rubondo Island National Park (p252)
8 impressive lush mountains rising up from
3 sunset over the rooftops of Zanzibar’s Stone
the beach along the Lake Tanganyika shore-
Town (p109)
line near Mahale Mountains National Park
4 the stark landscapes around Ol Doinyo (p267)
Lengai (p227)
9 the rolling, open vistas in the highlands
5 the patchwork quilt scenery of small farms around Kitulo National Park (p290) or the
and villages in the western Usambaras (p170) countryside around Tukuyu (p297)
6 views down into Ngorongoro Crater from 10 moonrise over one of the beaches on Zanzi-
the crater rim (p223) bar’s east coast (p128)
1 retrace history in Kilwa (p318), Mikindani 6 bird-watch in Rubondo Island National Park
(p326), Bagamoyo (p154) and Pangani (p252), or around Lake Eyasi (p228) or Lake
(p160) Manyara (p212)
2 go on safari in Mahale Mountains (p267), 7 spend a few days in and around Iringa
Katavi (p270) or Ruaha (p286) National (p282), Mufindi (p289) or Njombe (p289)
Parks or Mkomazi Game Reserve 8 travel overland between Mikindani and
(p179) Songea (p301), and on to Mbamba Bay
3 visit the rock paintings around Kolo (p236) (p300)
4 explore the hidden corners of Mafia (p306) 9 explore the hills around Mbeya (p291) and
or Pemba (p142) Kitulo National Park (p290)
5 discover Zanzibar (p108) in the rainy 10 enjoy the beaches around Saadani National
season Park (p158), or around Pangani (p160)
© Lonely Planet Publications
15
Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
SURF & SAFARI Two to Three Weeks/Arusha to Zanzibar
From Arusha, explore the northern parks. Good combinations: Serengeti
National Park (p216) and Ngorongoro Crater (p223); Ngorongoro plus Lake
Manyara National Park (p212) and Tarangire National Park (p214); Arusha National
Park (p207) and a Mt Meru trek (p209); and, a Mt Kilimanjaro trek (p191), or
some hiking and cultural interaction in Marangu (p189), Machame (p187)
or West Kilimanjaro (p194).
Head southeast via Moshi (p182) to Lushoto (p170) for some more hiking.
Alternatively, continue straight to Dar es Salaam (p84) and the ferry or plane
to Zanzibar (p109). With more time, travel from Lushoto to Tanga (p164),
then down the coast via Pangani (p160) and Saadani National Park (p158) and
over to Zanzibar via plane or dhow (from one of the beach lodges near
Pangani, or from Saadani).
A less-travelled variant of this itinerary combines Selous Game Reserve
(p311) with Mafia (p306) and Zanzibar’s Stone Town (p112), although this
will involve some flights. Besides Mafia, other post-safari destinations in-
clude the beach lodges in Saadani National Park, Lazy Lagoon (p158) near
Bagamoyo, and the beach lodges near Pangani.
This 1000km
journey (more with
detours) combines
West Tanzania’s best –
Mt Meru
Serengeti (4566m) Kilimanjaro Mt Kilimanjaro wildlife, beaches
National Park National Park
Machame
Marangu
Ngorongoro
Crater Moshi and culture. Roads
Arusha
Lake Manyara Arusha
National
are generally good,
National Park
Park
Tarangire
and there are
National Park
Lushoto Tanga
Pemba flights if time is
Pangani
limited. Two weeks
Saadani
Zanzibar is enough for an
Stone
National Park Town introduction, but
Bagamoyo
DAR ES SALAAM
allow three or
more to begin
to get under the
Mafia
surface.
Selous Game
Reserve
16 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d lonelyplanet.com
Mikindani
Nyasa
Songea
Tunduru
lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 17
To get in every-
Lukuba
Lake Island thing mentioned
Victoria
here, plan on at
Rubondo Island Ukerewe
Lake
least three to four
National Park
Natron
Mwanza Serengeti
National Park
months and too
Arusha
Lake Manyara
many kilometres to
National Park
count. Or, pick and
Tarangire
choose from among
Gombe Stream
National Park National Park Pemba
the shorter alter-
Kigoma
Tabora nate loops, each of
Zanzibar
which is a journey’s
Mahale Mpanda
Archipelago worth in itself.
Mountains Katavi
National Park National Mikumi DAR ES
Park Ruaha National Park SALAAM
Lake National Park
Tanganyika
Sumbawanga
Iringa Mafia
Mufindi Kilwa
Mbeya Masoko
Kilwa
Kisiwani
Lindi
Mikindani
Mtwara
Songea
Mbamba Bay
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