SWEATER NO.

13 #SWEATERNO13
ABOUT SWEATER NO. 13
Sweater No. 13 is a classic, a-line raglan sweater with a high, roll neck. The sleeves
are wide and extra-long to highlight the silhouette, which is inspired by the 70ies.
The texture is created using the broken rib stitch, which results in a beautiful
waffly look. The sweater is worked from the top down.

SIZES
XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL)

MEASUREMENTS
Circumference: 101 (107) 111 (118) 124 (131) cm [39.75 (42) 43.5 (46.5) 48.75
(51.5) inches]
Length, centre front: 55 (57) 59 (60) 61 (62) cm [21.5 (22.5) 23.25 (23.5) 24
(24.5) inches]

See size guide on the following page.

SUGGESTED NEEDLES
5 mm [US 8] circular needles (40 and 80 or 100 cm [16 and 32 or 40 inches])

GAUGE
18 sts / 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in broken rib using 5 mm [US 8]
needles.

Please be aware that broken rib tends to grow when washing. You can expect the
gauge before washing to be approx. 19-20 sts in 10 cm [4 inches].

MATERIALS
The sweater is worked in two strands of yarn held together. One of each of the
following yarns.

450 (500) 550 (600) 600 (650) gr. Pura Lana from Gepard Garn, 50 gr. / 115 m.
(shown in colour 192).

held together with…

100 (100) 100 (100) 100 (125) gr. Cashmere Lace from Gepard Garn, 25 gr. / 350
m. (shown in colour 323).

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Yarn alternative 1 In some yarns, it only grows widthwise - in others both height and widthwise.
400 (450) 550 (550) 600 (600) gr. Heavy Merino from Knitting for Olive, 50 gr. / It is extra important, that you both wash and block your sample. Remember to
125 m. check your gauge throughout.

held together with… INCREASES

The increases are worked on either side of a raglan border, so they lean either
125 (125) 150 (150) 175 (175) gr. Soft Silk Mohair from Knitting for Olive, 25 gr. / towards the right (M1R) or left (M1L).
225 m. The raglan border consists of 11 stitches, which are marked using stitch markers.

Yarn alternative 2 TIP! To your advantage, you can choose to use two differently coloured markers to
500 (600) 600 (700) 700 (700) gr. Håndværksgarn from Hjelholt, 100 gr. / 200 m. mark M1R and M1L. This will make it easier to keep track of which type of increase
to do.
held together with…
Work the increases as follows:
125 (125) 150 (150) 175 (175) gr. Soft Silk Mohair from Knitting for Olive, 25 gr. / M1R: With your left needle, pick up the bar (between the sts on the right and left
225 m. needles) from back to front and knit.
M1L: With your left needle, pick up the bar from front to back and knit through the
ABBREVIATIONS back loop.
k = knit
p = purl SHORT ROWS
tbl= through the back loop To shape the neckline, work short rows.
st(s) = stitch(es) Choose your preferred short row method, although German short rows give a neat
rnd(s) = round(s) result.
RS = right side
WS = wrong side TIP!? Have a look here for how to work German short rows:
inc = increase (see description below) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3S9cl47PYw
MM1-8 = stitch marker 1-8, named after the Danish ‘maskemarkør’
BROKEN RIB
SIZE GUIDE Sweater No. 13 is worked in broken rib stitch.
Sweater No. 13 is designed to have a positive ease of approx. 15-20 cm [6-8
inches]. The stitch is worked as follows:
Measure yourself before you start to ensure choosing the right size for you. 1. rnd: K all sts.
The sizes suit chest measurements of approx 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100- 2. rnd: *k1, p1*, and repeat from *-* to end of rnd.
110 (110-120) cm [31.5-33.5 (33.5-35.5) 35.5-37.5 (37.5-39.5) 39.5-43.5 (43.5-
47.25) inches]. BEGIN WORKING THE SWEATER HERE
For example: Your chest circumference is 89 cm [35 inches] + 16 cm [6.25 inches]
= 105 cm [41.25 inches]. ROLL NECK
Meaning you would choose a size S with a finished circumference of 107 cm [42 First, work the roll neck.
inches]. Cast on 64 (68) 68 (72) 72 (76) sts using 5 mm [US 8] (40 cm [16 inches]) circular
needles using the rib cast on method.
BEFORE YOU START
Please be aware that broken rib grows after wash.
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TIP! Have a look here for how to do the rib cast on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbXHz6CcpUw

Join to work in the round. Place a marker at the beginning of round (named MM1).
Repeat 1st and 2nd rnd as follows:

1st rnd: *p1, k1 * and repeat from *-* to end of rnd.

2nd rnd: K all sts.

NOTE! Please note that you on the 1st rnd p the first stitch instead of k as you
normally would.

Continue in pattern until you have worked a total of 13 (13) 13 (13) 13 (14) cm [5
(5) 5 (5) 5 (5.5) inches]. Finish after a 2nd rnd and work 1 more sts after reaching
your marker.

Now you need to turn the work inside out, so the wrong side of the roll neck faces
outwards.
Move the first st from left to right needle and pull the yarn over the needle
towards the back (exactly as if working German short rows). Move the marker to
the right needle.

Now continue working in pattern as follows:

1st rnd: K all sts.
2nd rnd: *k1, p1*, and repeat from *-* to end of rnd.

Repeat 1st og 2nd rnd, until work measures 18 (18) 19 (19) 19 (20) cm [7 (7) 7.5
(7.5) 7.5 (8) inches] as measured from the cast on edge (including the first 13 (13)
13 (13) 13 (14) cm [5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5.5) inches]).
Finish after a 2nd rnd.

On the following rnd (1st rnd) place markers (named MM1-MM8) to divide your
work in preparation for the raglan. Divide work into front, back, raglan borders
and sleeves.
Your MM1 marker is marking the transition between the back section and raglan
border.

Divide the work as follows and at the same time k all sts:
MM1 (beginning of rnd), 11 sts (raglan), MM2, 1 st (sleeve), MM3, 11 sts (raglan),
MM4, 9 (11) 11 (13) 13 (15) sts (front), MM5, 11 sts (raglan), MM6, 1 st (sleeve),
MM7, 11 st (raglan), MM8, 9 (11) 11 (13) 13 (15) sts (back).

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Before starting the increases, work short rows to shape the sweater. You now have 256 (276) 276 (296) 312 (316) sts on your needles.

The short rows are worked in 8 steps as follows: The stitches are divided as follows:
11 raglan-sts, 49 (53) 53 (57) 61 (61) sts (sleeve), 11 raglan-sts, 57 (63) 63 (69)
1st step (RS): *k1, p1* to (and including) 1 st after MM4 (1 st in on the front), 73 (75) sts (front), 11 raglan-sts, 49 (53) 53 (57) 61 (61) sts (sleeve), 11 raglan-
turn. sts, 57 (63) 63 (69) 73 (75) sts (back).
2nd step (WS): P back to the beginning of rnd (MM1).
3rd step (WS): *k1, p1* to (and including) 1 st after MM5 (1 st in on the front), Now work another 4 (4) 6 (6) 6 (8) rnds, where you only increase on the body
turn. 4th step (RS): K back to the beginning of rnd (MM1). without increasing at the sleeves. Work 1st and 2nd rnd repeatedly as follows:
5th step (RS): *k1, p1* to 3 sts after MM4 (3 sts in on the front), turn. 1st rnd: Slip MM1, k to MM4, slip marker, M1L, k to MM5, M1R, slip marker, k to
6th step (WS): P back to the beginning of rnd (MM1). MM8, slip marker, M1L, k to the beginning of rnd, M1R.
7th step (WS): *k1, p1* to 3 sts after MM5 (3 sts in on the front), turn.
8th step (RS): K back to the beginning of rnd (MM1). 2nd rnd: *k1, p1*, and repeat from *-* to end of rnd.

You have now turned the work four times and you have completed the short row Note, as with previous increases, there will be 2 k sts next to each other (on the sides
shaping. of the markers). The broken rib is reestablished at the raglan border the following
rnd.
Now work 2nd rnd (*k1, p1* to the end of rnd).
You have now worked a total of 28 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) rnds with inc.
Now start increasing for the raglan. You can change to longer circular needles as Meaning you have worked 56 (60) 64 (68) 72 (76) rnds in total.
you increase the number of sts. You now have 272 (292) 300 (320) 336 (348) sts on your needles.

The increases are worked on every other rnd. The stitches are divided as follows:
11 raglan-sts, 49 (53) 53 (57) 61 (61) sts (sleeve), 11 raglan-sts, 65 (71) 75 (81)
Repeat 1st and 2nd rnd as follows: 85 (91) sts (front), 11 raglan-sts, 49 (53) 53 (57) 61 (61) sts (sleeve), 11 raglan-
sts, 65 (71) 75 (81) 85 (91) sts (back).
1st rnd: Slip MM1 (marker at beginning of rnd), k to MM2, slip marker, M1L, k
sleeve sts, M1R, slip MM3, k to MM4, slip marker, M1L, k to MM5, M1R, slip BODY
marker, k to MM6, slip marker, M1L, k sleeve sts, M1R, slip MM7, k to MM8, slip Place the sleeve sts on hold using waste yarn while working the body.
marker, M1L, k to beginning of rnd (MM1), M1R. The 4 raglan borders of 11 sts and the front and back are joined and new sts are
cast on for the armhole. Remove old markers when you reach them.
2nd rnd: Work rib as established and include the new sts into the broken rib
pattern. Work broken rib as follows using 5 mm [US8] (80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches])
circular needles:
Note, that after the increases every 4 rnds, there will be 2 k sts next to each other (on Starting at the beginning of rnd, separate the body and sleeves.
both sides of the markers). The broken rib is reestablished at the raglan border the Work the 11 raglan-sts, place the following 49 (53) 53 (57) 61 (61) sts (sleeve sts)
following rnd. on hold using waste yarn, cast on 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) sts using the backwards loop
method, place marker (this is your new beginning of round), cast on 3 (1) 1 (1) 3
Continue working in pattern as set until you have worked a total of 24 (26) 26 (3) sts using the backwards loop method (right armhole), work the 11 raglan-sts,
(28) 30 (30) rnds with inc. work the front 65 (71) 75 (81) 85 (91) sts, work the 11 raglan-sts, place the
Meaning you have worked 48 (52) 52 (56) 60 (60) rnds in total. following 49 (53) 53 (57) 61 (61) sts (sleeve sts) on hold using waste yarn, cast on
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5 (3) 3 (3) 5 (5) sts using the backwards loop method (left armhole), work the 11 NOTE! Continue working the broken rib stitch and ensure that it fits over both the
raglan-sts, work the back 65 (71) 75 (81) 85 (91) sts. armhole and the sleeve for an interrupted finish.
You now have 184 (192) 200 (212) 224 (236) sts on your needles.
To match up the pattern and to close the holes in the transition between body and
Break the yarn and move the 13 (13) 13 (13) 13 (13) sts in between the old and sleeves, knit the 2 sts together that you picked up at the raglan border.
new beginning of rnd to your right needle. K1, p1, knit 2 sts together, *p1, k1* to 6 (4) 4 (4) 6 (6) sts before the end of rnd, p1,
You are now ready to continue working broken rib in the round. knit 2 sts together, work in pattern to the end of rnd.

Work 1st and 2nd rnd as follows: You now have 56 (58) 58 (62) 68 (68) sts on your needle.
1st rnd: K all sts.
2nd rnd: *k1, p1*, and repeat from *-* to end of rnd. Continue working in broken rib stitch until the sleeve measures 42 (42) 43 (43)
41 (41) cm [16.5 (16.5) 17 (17) 16 (16) inches], measured from the picked up sts
Continue repeating the two pattern rnds throughout, until the work measured at the armhole (or desired length). Finish the sleeve by working a 2nd rnd.
from right below the roll neck - ie. the rnd with your first raglan increases -
measures 53 (55) 57 (58) 59 (60) cm [21 (21.5) 22.5 (22.75) 23.25 (23.5) inches] NOTE! Again, take into account that the sleeve will grow approx. 2 cm [0.75 inches]
or desired length. when washing.

NOTE! Be aware that your sweater will grow approx. 2 cm [0.75 inches] when Now work another rnd of ribbing, *k1, p1*, (meaning that there will be 2 rnds of
washing. ribbing right after each other - this is correct), and then bind off using the Italian
bind off.
Finish after a 2nd rnd. Repeat instructions for working the second sleeve.
Now work another rnd of rib *k1, p1* (meaning that there will be 2 rnds of ribbing
right after each other - this is correct), and then bind off using the Italian bind off. FINISHING
To finish the garment, weave in all ends using the kitchener or duplicate stitch.
TIP! Have a look here for how to bind off using the Italian bind off method: Wash and block your finished sweater.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UY0xEX7A6RQ

SLEEVES
The sleeves are worked in broken rib stitch in the round on either a 40 cm [16
inches] circular needle or a longer one, using the magic loop method.

Transfer the 49 (53) 53 (57) 61 (61) sts on hold back to your 5 mm [US 8] circular
needles.

Now pick up sts as follows:

Begin at the middle of the armhole, pick up and knit 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) sts in the cast
on sts under the armhole, then pick up 2 sts in the knit sts in the outermost row of
the raglan border, work over the sleeve sts, then pick up 2 sts in the knit sts in the
outermost row of the raglan border, pick up and knit 3 (1) 1 (1) 3 (3) sts in the
cast on sts under the armhole, place a marker - this marks the beginning of rnd.

You now have 58 (60) 60 (64) 70 (70) sts on your needle.

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