Briggs & Stratton Model 130G32 Teardown Rev2 2
Briggs & Stratton Model 130G32 Teardown Rev2 2
This is a 208cc horizontal shaft Utility engine. Features are heavy duty and include dual
element air cleaner, dual ball bearings, cast iron sleeve, helical cut gears, metal fuel tank
DISASSEMBLY
1 Do a walk around of the
engine, describing the
following features
Steel Fuel Tank
Throttle Control (right to left)
Top No Load Speed Adjuster
Air Cleaner (dual element)
Full Circuited Carburetor
Manual Choke
Fuel Shutoff
On/Off Rocker Switch
Rewind Grip
Rewind
Bowl Drain
Remote Magneto Stop Connector
Muffler
Spark Plug Boot
Spark Plug
Throttle Cable Bowden Wire Clamp
Valve Cover
Breather Hose
Carburetor
Cylinder Air Guide
Oil Fills
Oil Drain Plugs
Mounting Feet
Governor Arm Pinch Bolt
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CLOSE FUEL SHUT OFF VALVE AND REMOVE SPARK PLUG LEAD!
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Loosen Nyloc pinch bolt nut and lift arm straight up and off of governor shaft. Do not
disturb Tine Pin
The different hole locations (1,2,3,4,5) allow the engine governing system to be “tuned”
to different applications
The closer the spring is moved towards the governor shaft (pivot point) the more
sensitive the system becomes but at the expense of system stability
The further from the pivot point the spring is moved, the more stable the system
becomes at the sacrifice of sensitivity
11 Remove Speed Control Screw 2x 8mm
Bracket Spring Hand
Take a digital picture of bracket to capture wire and linkage routings
Note red ignition ground wire ring terminal under top mounting screw
Looped end of governor spring faces up at speed control bracket
Looped end of governor spring faces down at governor arm. On this engine, install
spring in hole #3 and link in hole “G”
The travel of this control is the reverse of most other Briggs engines
Speed control bracket is capable of fixed speed, manual friction and remote control, all
obtained by tightening or loosening Nyloc nut at control pivot point
Bowden wire throttle controls will accept a Z bend cable end or a straight end, flexible
(braided) control wire
Note location of governor spring – outer hole on this engine
Bracket is equipped with a return-to-idle spring
Mark hole on speed control bracket where governor spring attaches with a magic
marker to facilitate reassembly
12 Remove Rewind from Screw 3x 8mm
Blower Housing
Keep screws separate – length is different than others
Starter can be mounted in multiple positions
Rewind is a dog and cup style, similar to the Eaton type system
Starter rope is a healthy #5
Rewind is repairable
13 Remove Blower Housing Screw 4x 8mm
Needle nose
Remove screws
Carefully slide housing away from flywheel until access to terminals at on/off switch is
possible
Unplug terminals from switch. Take a picture or make a note as to which wire goes
where on the switch and record where the wire goes on the engine as well as its
routing. This engine has some distinct pathways for wire routing
Note the switch terminals are numbered 1 thru 3
14 Remove Ignition Armature Screw 2x 8mm
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REASSEMBLY
General Instructions
Remove old gasket material and clean parts to be reused
Follow all torque values listed in column 5 during the reassembly process
Clearance adjustments are required for the valves and armature air guide and are also
listed in column 5
A special adjustment procedure is performed for the governor system
Lubricate all moving parts upon assembly
29 Install Governor Hand
Cup/Spool (if removed)
Make sure thrust washer is under cup
Turn governor crank so paddle is against governor cup
Make sure crankcase cover dowel pins are installed in crankcase
30 Install Crankshaft Hand
Crank gear has a “dot” on a tooth that must face out
Carefully, make sure governor gears mesh with each other so plastic governor gear is
not damaged by steel gear on crankshaft
31 Install Piston and 19070 Ring
Connecting Rod Assembly Compressor
Lubricate piston assembly, rings, ring grooves, cylinder wall and ring compressor with
oil
Set piston into bore. Be sure orientation marks (notch or triangle) on the piston crown
faces toward the push rods
Unwind ring compressor far enough to stretch it over the piston/ring assembly. Do not
unwind too far or tool will be damaged
Slide compressor over piston far enough that it covers all the rings
Firmly tighten ring compressor, compressing rings into the ring grooves. Remove piston
assembly from bore and inspect that all rings are captured and compressed. Adjust
compressor position on piston to accomplish this if necessary
Position piston in bore and crankshaft in block so that the piston/connecting rod
assembly will not be impeded when pressed into the bore
Gently tap on the upper edge of the compressor to make sure the bottom edge is in
contact with the cylinder at all points
Press firmly and steadily on top of piston sliding it from the compressor into the cylinder
bore. Do not let up until piston is completely in the bore. If it stops before it completely
enters the bore, a ring has popped out from the compressor and failed to enter the bore
Do not hammer piston assembly into block or rings may be damaged. If you cannot
push the piston in by hand or if a ring has popped out, reset the ring compressor and try
again. Multiple tries is not uncommon for the novice
32 Install Connecting Rod Screw 2x 8mm 125 lb in
Cap 17.5Nm
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Align Match Marks on rod cap and rod and install rod cap screws
Carefully torque rod cap screws
Rotate crankshaft by hand after assemble to insure there is no binding. Use caution.
The edges of the crankshaft key way are very sharp
33 Install Tappets Hand
Tip cylinder assembly on its side or turn upside down to prevent tappets from falling out
34 Install Cam Gear Hand
Make sure compression release mechanism moves freely and the return spring is in
position
Note mark on cam gear in the valley between 2 teeth. This aligns with the dot on the
crankshaft gear. Orienting these marks establishes the internal timing of the engine by
assuring the valves will open and close at the correct time in relation to the piston
location in the cylinder bore
35 Install Crankcase Cover Screw 6x 10mm 210 lb in
(25 Nm)
The clearance between the crankshaft and main bearing and the bearing races and
block/cover is a clearance fit. If the alignment is off even slightly, the cover will bind
during reassembly. If this occurs, do not force the cover on. Make sure the cover is
perpendicular to the crankshaft axis and it will slide right into position
Torque sequence in o’clock positions: Screw at 3:00 position is number 1
Number 2: 9:00
Number 3: 5:00
Number 4: 10:00
Number 5: 7:00
Number 6: 1:00
When finished, rotate crankshaft through several complete revolutions to check for
binding
36 Check Crankshaft Dial caliper .003-.030
Endplay in
(.09-.075
mm)
Pump applications require endplay of .002-.009 in. This is adjusted by adding shims
between the crank gear and the pto ball bearing
If endplay is too much on standard engines, the crankcase cover must be replaced
37 Assemble Cylinder Head Screw 1x 8mm 30 lb in
(3.4 Nm)
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Lubricate the valve stems with oil and insert the valves into the valve guides from the
combustion chamber side. The larger valve is always the intake valve and the
smaller, the exhaust. These valves have an “E” or an “H” embedded in the part
number on the top of the valve to help identify them as exhaust or intake
Bunch up a rag and push it into the combustion chamber then put the cylinder head
on the work bench with the rag and combustion chamber against the bench surface.
The rag is there to apply pressure against the valve so the head can be
reassembled
Slide the stem seal – flat side in – along the intake valve stem. When the piston
drops down in the bore during the intake stroke, the low pressure area created can
draw oil along the valve stem and into the combustion chamber raising exhaust
emissions. The stem seal acts like a “squeegee” and prevents the oil migration. It is
usually not necessary on the exhaust valve although some engines have a seal on
both.
The head plate was not removed but if it was, install it and torque the studs to 125
lb. in.
Set a valve spring down over the stem seal and a retainer on top of the spring.
Make sure you have safety glasses on. Compress the spring by pressing down on
the retainer. At the same time, guide the end of the valve stem through the larger
hole in the retainer. Continue to press down until the narrower center hole through
the retainer can be slipped into the slot in the valve stem
The procedure is the same for the exhaust but there is no stem seal.
Once springs are installed, make sure the axis of the spring is parallel to the valve
stem. If the spring is cocked, the valve guide will wear prematurely
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Slide pushrods through sheet metal plate and seat the ends into the recess in the
tappets. Inspect pushrod ends. If one appears to protrude from the head further than
the other, turn crankshaft 360 degrees
Install 2 valve stem caps – do not drop them as they may end up in the crankcase!
Slide rockers over the studs, thread adjusters on to stud and follow with locking nut
Align rockers with push rod and valve stem cap. Lightly snug adjuster nut against
rocker and then the locking nut against the adjuster
40 Position Piston for Valve Pencil, Popsicle
Adjustment Stick, Wood
Dowel
If piston was set to TDC and pushrods were at even lengths from steps above, insert
something like a popsicle stick or soda straw into the spark plug hole, until it contacts
the top of the piston. Rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise when viewed from the
PTO until the stick drops ¼ in. Valve clearance on Briggs & Stratton engines is
adjusted when the piston is ¼ in past top dead center on the power stroke.
41 Set Valve Clearance Nut 2x Feeler gage .004-.006
Nut 2x 10mm in
14mm .006-008
in
70 lb in
(7.9 Nm)
If piston was set to TDC and pushrods were at even lengths from steps above, insert
something like a popsicle stick or soda straw into the spark plug hole, until it contacts
the top of the piston. Rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise when viewed from the
PTO until the stick drops ¼ in. Valve clearance on Briggs & Stratton engines is
adjusted when the piston is ¼ in past top dead center on the power stroke.
For the intake valve, rotate the .004, .005 and .006 in leaves from the closed gage.
Insert the .005 blade between the stem cap and the rocker. Loosen or tighten the
adjustment nut until there is a slight drag on the blade. Push down on the nut while
checking the clearance to simulate the pressure the locking nut will apply. Snug down
the locking nut and recheck. If too tight using the .005 blade, check with the .004. If
too loose, check with the .006. If either of the other blades offers a slight drag, you are
still within tolerance so the setting is acceptable. When complete, torque lock nut to 70
lb in (7.9 Nm)
Repeat procedure for the exhaust valve using .006, .007 and .008 feeler gage blades.
42 Install Valve Cover Screw 4x 8mm 80 lb in
(9Nm)
Torque sequence:
Top right
Bottom left
Top left
Bottom right
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Bracket (10.7Nm)
Turn bracket upside down
Install long end of spring through hole marked during disassembly
Check hook at other end of spring – the short end should be up
Mount bracket
Engage short end of spring into hole “G” on governor arm
Screw that attaches bracket at base of fuel tank also goes through the eyelet of the red
wire that goes down to the ignition armature. Check your picture library for correct
routing
53 Install Governor Arm Nut 1x 10mm
Bolt 1x
The governor arm clamps around the splines of the shaft. Because of the clamping
force imparted when the nut is torqued, the fit of the arm against the shaft is tight. If we
push it back on in its compressed condition, the clip will probably be dislodged from the
slot and we run the risk of the governor spool falling off. To avoid this, spread the slot
of the governor arm open slightly so the arm will easily fit over the shaft. Back the
Nyloc nut off a few turns, slide a screwdriver into the legs of the arm and gently pry the
legs apart to increase the hole size for the shaft.
Test fit the arm on the shaft to make sure it is a smooth, slip fit. The arm should slide
onto the shaft and sit on top of the clip. If OK, remove arm, turn Nyloc nut onto the
threads until it just touches the governor arm, insert the governor spring into hole #3 for
this engine model and type and slide arm back onto governor shaft. The spring loop
opening should be down.
The solid link has a Z bend on one end and an L bend on the other. Insert the Z bend
into hole G of the governor arm from the top. Engage the L-shaped end of the link with
the throttle shaft of the carburetor
Attach the loop of the link spring in hole F of the governor arm
Attach the other loop of the link spring to the small hole in the throttle shaft
Leave the governor system alone for now. It will be adjusted later
54 Install Air Cleaner Base Nut 2x 10mm 40 lb in
Screw 1x 8mm (4.5Nm)
50 lb in
(5.6Nm)
Get nuts and screw started before tightening either
Install breather hose between valve cover and air cleaner backing plate
55 Perform Static Governor Nut 1x 10mm 40 lb in
Adjustment Pliers (4.5Nm)
Torque Wrench
A static governor adjustment must be performed whenever the
governor system is disturbed such as when replacing parts like
links or springs or removing and reinstalling the carburetor. It is a
static adjustment, so is performed with the engine not running and
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