®

PROJECT PLAN

Classic floor-to-
ceiling bookcases
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 bookcases
Classic floor-to-ceiling

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Designed
to fit,even
if your
room isn’t
perfectly
o One of my earliest memo-
ries is of my mother hold-
ing my hand as we ambled
up a huge set of steps to
bookcases, my mouth was
still open, but now quiet.
To my mother’s surprise,
I was silent the rest of the
upright partitions; see
Fig. B, p. 37).
We’ve engineered this
project to work even if
square. the front doors of our city day, and the memory of your room is a bit out of
library. I fought every those bookcases is as vivid kilter. The moldings are
inch of the way until we as my first book. applied after the main
by David stepped inside. As I gazed The classic Greek standards are installed
Radtke at the floor-to-ceiling Revival styling of our to cover any gaps result-
library is reminiscent of ing from uneven floors
those bookcases built or walls.
more than a hundred Near the end of this
years ago. The bookcases article, you’ll find lists of
look ornate but are rela- the tools and materials
tively simple to build. you’ll need to complete
There’s no complex join- this project. For a project
ery like mortise-and- the size of ours, expect to
tenon, or even doweling, spend about $600 on
USE SHORTEST so if you’ve hung a new materials. The optional
HEIGHT FOR
MEASUREMENT door or trimmed a room ladder and hardware will
USE TALLEST
GUY TO with new molding, you cost an additional $800.
MEASURE have the expertise to han- And even though this
dle this project. project isn’t complicated,
We sized the book- it’s still going to take you
cases to fit into a typical at least 40 hours to build.
room with an 8-ft. ceiling
and at least 8 ft. of wall PLANNING AHEAD
space, something like a As you can see, the center
1 typical bedroom you may section of our bookcases
want to convert to a is 6 in. wider than the two
MEASURE THE HEIGHT and width of your
library or home office. It outer sections. This estab-
wall. Note the locations of all receptacles,
switches and vents. They may require you to can also be expanded by lishes a focal point, and
modify our design. adding standards (the the two side sections

34 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

 Classic floor-to-ceiling Fig. A Casings

bookcases
and moldings
3/4" 3/4"
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
AT THE LUMBERYARD 1-1/4"
With the exception of
the rolling ladder, the provide symmetry. How- irregularities like a sloping SOLID COVE
4" 5/8"
maple fluted casing and ever, this exact design may floor or an uneven wall. If
the plinth blocks, all the not work for your room. your walls and floor aren’t
1-3/8"
materials are available at To check, carefully mea- exactly straight or level,
lumberyards and well- sure your selected site you’ll be able to scribe the FLUTED SHELF
equipped home centers (Photo 1). Take into con- standards on the backside CASING MOLDING
(see Shopping List, p. sideration the height, and bottom, and then cut
47). We made the four width and any obstruc- along your scribe for a per- 2-5/8" 7/16"
vertical standards and tions unique to your room. fect fit (see “For More (TYP.)

shelves from birch- You may find you need to Information” on p. 44). 3-1/4" 1-3/8"
veneer plywood sand- alter our plans a bit. Keep If you decide to include
wiched around ordinary in mind, you can move the the ladder in your design, COLONIAL
CROWN STOP
2x4s. The only hitch is standards (Fig. B and be aware that it could take
finding really straight Photo 12) closer together up to five weeks for deliv-
and dry 2x4s. They must or add another standard or ery. This shouldn’t slow yes, the ladder will roll on
not have any bow, but two to fit a longer wall. you down—you can get carpeting as well.
they can have a slight As you plan, note the started with the project
crook or crown (see “For location of your electrical and install the ladder when GETTING STARTED
More Information”). And receptacles and heating it arrives. You don’t need a fancy
since the 2x4s will be ducts. They may dictate Our bookcases were WALL shop to cut the plywood
completely hidden, where you place the stan- built onto a wood floor. If and build the standards.
some rough edges are dards. Your only other you have carpeting, you’ll A set of sawhorses under a
2
acceptable. Even if your absolute is that the ladder need to pull back the car- 5/16" DIA. HOLES
sheet of 3/4-in. plywood 12"
(TYPICAL)
2x4s feel dry to the support rod (Photo 17) pet and pad and reinstall will work just fine. The first
touch, let them dry should not span more than them later around the base order of business is to rip
inside the house for at 36 in. between brackets. of the bookcases (see “For (cut lengthwise) the eight 31"
least a week. Too much Use a level to check for More Information”). And 66"plywood
pieces of
95"
moisture will cause
FLOOR
problems because the
wood shrinks as it dries.
We used birch-veneer
plywood and maple trim
for our project because
it complemented the
existing maple wood-
work. Whatever wood
you choose, be sure it
has a “plain-sawn”
veneer, which has a 2
straighter, less wild
RIP THE 3/4-IN.
grain pattern (see “For PLYWOOD into
More Information”). the 13-3/4 in.
If you’re a bit adven- strips you’ll later
use to construct
turous and want to
each of the four
make your own fluted standards. You’ll
casing and plinth blocks, 3/4" VENEERED need to rip eight
read our article, “Making PLYWOOD 13-3/4" identical pieces
(see Fig. B) for
Door and Window Cas- HOMEMADE the standards
ing,” Feb. ’97, p. 39. JIG
and one for the
RIPPING
top (C).
MARK

36 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998

Fig. B Bookcase Details
3" DRYWALL SCREW INTO JOISTS SHIM J

45° MITER (TYPICAL) CEILING 2-5/8"

C
J J WALL
1-1/2" x 1-1/2"
D 1/2" BRASS ANGLE, 1-5/8"
D1 3/4" SCREWS
D2 D
G
H STANDARD
D E
H
D2 D1 H SECTION VIEW AT TOP
C
CEILING SHIM
D1 (TAPERED SHAKE)

1-5/8" 1-3/8" 1/2" SIDE SHIM

1-1/8"
D2
D
7/8" 7/16"
84"
FROM
FLOOR 1/2" SHIM

A2

A1
B
A A1 A E
A2 B H
B
E E G
E
L
G H M1 WALL
H G G
5-1/2" NO. 8
K SCREW
M AND ANCHOR

A2
2" 1/4" DIA. x
1/2" DEEP
A HOLES FOR
E SHELF PINS
2-3/4"
E
SET REAR 3/4"
2x4 (B) IN A1
1/2" (TYP.)
L M1 G A2
TRIM
B PLINTH
A1 B 1/4" ON
B
F RIGHT
SIDE
A2 A
B F
A1 PINS (1/4" x 3" LAG BOLTS
G F WITH HEADS CUT OFF)

B B
STANDARD
CL

F
2-3/4" TAPER ENDS 1/2"
12"

TYPICAL OF ALL
PLINTHS AND 7' ROLLING LADDER
FLUTED CASINGS (SEE BUYER’S GUIDE) WALL 5/16" DIA. HOLES IN FLOOR
SECTION VIEW AT BOTTOM

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998 37

 Classic floor-to-ceiling

13-3/4"
bookcases
13-3/4 in. wide to make the
standards. You can use a
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

it every 2 in. from one end

to the other as shown in
table saw, but we prefer to Photo 4. Next mark cen-
use a circular saw and a ters 3/4 in. from the edge.
homemade rip guide, To keep your bit from
made from two pieces of wandering as you drill, use
TOP OF straight scrap plywood a center punch to dent the
WORKPIECE
(see Photo 2 and “For steel at your mark. Using a
More Information”). After 1/4-in. high-speed steel
ripping the pieces, you’ll twist bit, drill all the holes.
need to crosscut the tops to Sand off sharp burrs with
3 length as shown in Photo
3. The length will be the
100-grit sandpaper.
To finish your jig, drill
SCORE the 3/4-in. plywood with a sharp utility knife at a measurement from your four 1/16-in. holes evenly
height 1 in. shorter than your floor-to-ceiling measurement floor to the ceiling minus spaced along its length so
in Photo 1. Crosscut along the edge of the scored line to get
1 in. This extra inch of you can tack it to the ply-
a splinter-free cut.
space is needed to slide the wood sides (Photo 5).
bookcase top (C) into TIP: Mark the jig with a bit
position later (Photo 12). of paint so the top can be
After cutting the ply- identified at a glance. If
wood to size, you’ll need to you don’t, you can easily
drill 1/4-in. dia. holes into flip it end for end and then
the inner sides for the shelf get the shelf-hole pattern
support hardware. These goofed up!
holes must be precise from At 84 in. from the bot-
1/4" STEEL
TWIST BIT
one standard to the next so tom, mark each plywood
your shelves don’t wobble. piece (A, A1) for drilling.
CENTER STEEL The best way to ensure this The A2 pieces don’t get
PUNCH DRILLING
JIG
is to make a drilling jig. drilled. Align the top hole
To make your drilling of the jig with your mark.
jig, buy a 1-1/4 in. wide x Align the edge of the jig
3/4"
1/8-in.thick x 6-ft. long with the back edge of the
4 piece of mild steel from
your hardware store. Mark
plywood (Photo 5). Nail
the jig to the workpiece
MAKE A JIG to drill
accurate holes for the
shelf-support hard-
ware. Drill 1/4-in. dia.
holes 2 in. apart and
5
centered 3/4 in. from NAIL THE JIG (use 3/4-in.
the edge into a 1-1/4 nails) to the plywood pieces (A
in. x 1/8-in. x 6-ft. and A1) you’ve already cut. The
piece of mild steel. jig needs four 1/16-in. holes
along its length for the small
3/4-in. nails that attach it to the
plywood (see Fig. B). Once the
1/4"
jig is secure to the plywood
BRAD POINT piece, drill 1/4-in. holes 1/2 in.
DRILL BIT deep through each of the jig
holes into the plywood.
1/16" 17-GAUGE,
HOLE 3/4" NAIL NOTE: The two outside end
panels (A2) do not have holes
STOP drilled into them.
COLLAR
TOP OF
38 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998 DRILLING JIG
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
6 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
GLUE THE 2x4s between the
plywood pieces (A and A1)
with 3/4 in. long, 17-gauge “sandwich style” to create the
two middle upright standards.
nails.
Also, glue together an A2 and
To get clean, flat- A1 for the far right standard
bottomed holes, use a and an A and an A2 for the far
1/4-in. brad point bit in left standard. After gluing,
GLUED-UP clamp them for at least two
your drill. Use a stop collar STANDARD hours. Be sure the front 2x4 (B)
on the bit to ensure a PREDRILLED is flush with the front side of
1/2-in. depth, and drill HOLES the panels and the rear 2x4 (B)
into each hole of the jig. A1 is set in about 1/2 in. The extra
1/2 in. on the back makes
Drill the front holes
scribing to the wall much
next, centered at 2-3/4 in. B easier (see text).
from the front edge as
shown in Fig. B. CARPENTER’S
NOTE: Pieces A and A1 are GLUE
BACKSIDE
mirror images of each OF A
other, so double-check to
make sure you drill them
correctly.
see how each one fits
SANDWICH-GLUING against the floor and the
THE STANDARDS wall. A gap of 1/8 in. at
Now you’re ready to glue places against the wall is
the plywood pieces (A, A1, OK; if the gap is any larger,
A2) and the 2x4s (B) that the standard should be
make each standard. To scribed to fit. If you live in A1
make sure you glue the an old house that’s settled
correct sides (A, A1, A2) considerably, check for a
together, study Fig. B. Cut gap on the floor as some-
CUT
the 2x4s to the same length one holds each standard LAG SCREW
as the plywood. Spread against the wall. If there’s a
glue (about a 1/4-in. bead gap at the front, scribe the B
in a squiggly pattern) on standard to the floor and
both sides of the 2x4s and sand to your mark with a
place them onto the ply- belt sander (see “For More
A
wood (Photo 6). Recess Information”). If you
the rear 2x4 about 1/2 in. make any adjustments to
from the back. If your wall the standards, mark them
is uneven, this will make it in the order you’ll install
much easier to scribe it to them—1, 2, 3 and so on.
the wall later on. TIP: To 3" LAG
HACKSAW SCREW
keep the pieces from drift- INSTALLING
ing as you clamp them, THE PINS
FILE
drive a finish nail through The pins that secure the
the plywood into the 2x4
to hold it in position. Set
standards to the floor are
nothing more than 1/4-in.
7
this nail just below the sur- x 3-in. lag screws with their INSTALL A PAIR of 3-in lag screws in the bottom of each
face and fill the hole later. heads cut off with a hack- standard. Use a wrench to turn them until the threads are all
inside the bottoms of the 2x4s. Next, cut the heads off the
Once the glue has set saw. Carefully mark the
screws with a hacksaw and file a slight taper on the bottom
overnight, position each hole centers as shown of the protruding screw shaft. These pins will hold the stan-
standard in your room to in Fig. B, then predrill a dards into holes in the floor (to be drilled later).

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998 39

 Classic floor-to-ceiling

MASKING
TAPE
bookcases
3/16-in. hole. Turn the lag
screws into the holes with
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

to make each dentil. It’s

slow-going but the finished
DENTILS (D) an end wrench, leaving look is worth it. We used a
1/2 in. of the shaft exposed power miter saw to cut the
(Photo 7). Now, cut the lengths (you can rent one
3/4" 3/4"
heads off the screws and for about $45 a day) . The
file a slight taper near the filler piece (D1) at the top
1-1/4"
DENTIL end to help guide the pins side of the dentils (D) is the
FILLER (D1)
into the holes you’ll be SOLID COVE same molding with the
drilling later4"into the floor. square side toward the top
5/8"
7/16" SCRAP
D2 of the dentil as shown in
8 SPACER
MAKING THE DENTIL 1-3/8"
Photo 8. The backer board
MOLDING (D2) is 1x4 maple.
GLUE THE DENTIL PIECES (D) to the 1x4 backer board FLUTED
Our dentils (D) are made SHELF Nail the filler (D1) to
(D2), using masking tape to hold them as the glue dries. CASING MOLDING
Parts D, D1 and D2 must be prestained before gluing. Allow from colonial stop mold- the backer board using
the stain to dry at least a day so the glue will stick. The den- ing (also called Princeton 1-1/4 in. brads every 6 in.
tils are made from colonial-style stop that is first ripped to 2-5/8" 7/16"
style; Fig. A(TYP.)
). First, rip off Then glue the dentil pieces
1-1/8 in. then cut to 7/8-in. lengths. The filler piece at the top
is the same uncut stop with the detailed side up. This piece the square side so the stop 1-3/8" as shown in Photo 8,
to D2
3-1/4"
will be hidden by the crown molding (J) later. is 1-1/8 in. wide (if you using just enough glue so it
don’t own a table saw, haveCOLONIAL doesn’t ooze from the sides
this done at theCROWN
lumber- STOPof the dentils. Let this piece

yard). Now cut the mold- sit for 24 hours before

ing into 7/8-in. long pieces handling it.

Fig. C Hole location for pins (top view)

SHELF (K)

WALL

EDGE 5/16" DIA. HOLES 2-3/4"

12"
MOLDING (M) (TYPICAL)

2"
31"
66"
95"
9 FLOOR

GLUE THE EDGE

MOLDING (M) to the
shelf (K). Use masking
tape to align the mold-
ing and clamp it until
10
the glue sets.
APPLY MASKING TAPE
to the floor where the stan-
dards will be placed, then
mark the hole locations for
the pins (cut-off screws).
Use a framing square as a
guide to ensure that the
BASEBOARD
REMOVED holes will be perpendicular
to the wall. Be sure to
remove the baseboard.
5/16" DIA. HOLE
40 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998 LOCATIONS
MASKING
TAPE
 1" SPACE

5-1/2" DRYWALL
SCREW INTO
TOP SPACER
MEASUREMENT

STANDARDS DRYWALL
ANCHOR
TEMPORARY BEHIND WALL
STRINGER
1/2"
SHIM

STRINGER
11a
TIP THE STANDARDS into
position, making sure the 1/4-in.
pins fall into the 5/16-in. holes.
The standard against the corner
wall is spaced 1/2 in. away from
the wall and is secured at the top
front with a 5-1/2 in. drywall
screw driven into a drywall
anchor. The screw and anchor will
hold the first piece in position
while the temporary stringers will
BOTTOM
MEASUREMENT hold the rest of the standards par-
allel. Nail the temporary stringers
to each standard, making sure the
11 top width measurement equals
the bottom width measurement.

42 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998

 Classic floor-to-ceiling

bookcases
MAKING THE
SHELVES
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

to exact length (the mea-

surement between stan-
fill nail holes with colored
putty. For a blotch-free
the floor as shown in
Photo 10. Next, carefully
We recommend cutting dards, minus 3/16 in.) even color on the birch, we measure using Fig. C as
the shelves at the same when you’re ready to applied Minwax Wood your guide. Use a square
time as the standards (see install them. This way, they Conditioner before the so your measurements will
Cutting List, p. 47). Cut can be prefinished along Minwax No. 245 pecan be perpendicular to the
the shelf fronts (M and with the other pieces. stain. Use a polyurethane wall, and drill the 5/16-in.
M1) and glue them to the varnish for durability. dia. holes into the floor for
shelves (Photo 9). You can PREFINISHING the first standard (Fig. C).
trim the completed shelves It’s a lot faster to stain and INSTALLING Space the first standard
varnish in your shop than THE STANDARDS 1/2 in. from the side wall
it is to painstakingly avoid AND TOP (Photo 11a). This will pro-
spilling onto your walls Remove your baseboard vide enough space for the
1/4" PIN and floor. And you can where the bookcases will fluted front casing (Photo
confine the odor of the fin- go. Pull the nails through 14) to overhang equal
ish to your workshop or from the backside with a amounts on each side of
garage; just be sure your pliers and set the base- the standard. To hold the
TAPER work area is at least board aside. You’ll reinstall top of the standard away
60 degrees F. After the it later between the stan- from the wall (Photo 11a
bookcases are completely dards. To help you see the and Fig. B), install a shim
installed, you can touch up pin location marks for the near the top as shown and
5/16" HOLE
IN FLOOR any cut ends with stain and standards, apply tape on secure the standard to the
11b

43 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998

 Classic floor-to-ceiling

CABINET
TOP (C) bookcases ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

wall with a 5-1/2 in. dry-

wall screw driven into a
12 drywall anchor. Make sure
SLIDE THE CABINET TOP (C)
the shim is thick enough so
over the standards and secure it in the standard is plumb
place with brass angle hardware (Photo 11a). Now cut
(Fig. B) in the front and back of temporary stringers from
each standard. Be sure the stan-
dards are positioned and spaced
scrap 1x2, two pieces 32 in.
properly before screwing the top long and one piece 36 in.
STANDARDS
in place. Once the top is secured to long (Photo 11).
the standards, be sure the stan- Drill the corresponding
dards are against the wall. Then
screw the top to the ceiling joists
5/16-in. dia. holes for the
in three locations (two screws at second standard into the
each location), shimming the gaps floor and set it in place
(Photo 13) between the top and (Photo 11b). Nail a 32-in.
the ceiling with wood shims. Note:
BRASS
You may have to use a stud finder
temporary stringer from
ANGLES
to locate the joists. Or install the first unit to the second,
blocks between joists in the attic. making sure the standards
are perfectly parallel.
Once all the standards
are in place, slip the top
Tools CROWN
Tape measure HEIGHT DENTIL ASSEMBLY
(C) into position (Photo
Masking tape 12) between the standards
Screwdriver CEILING SHIM and the ceiling. When the
Hammer and nail set
Circular saw MITERED front edge of the top is
Utility knife END even with the fronts of the
Framing square
Drill and assorted bits, including: standards, screw it to the
1/4” brad point drill bit top of the standards (Fig.
1/4” steel twist bit
1/4” stop collar B) with 3/4-in. screws and
Center punch brass angles. Then shim it
Power miter saw
Table saw tight to the ceiling. To lock
Level
Belt sander
13 the bookcases into posi-
tion, screw the top to the
10 clamps (6” or larger)
3 clamps (12” or larger) MITER THE END of the dentil assembly, then cut it to ceiling joists with 3-in.
Stud finder length. Nail the assembly to the front of the standards with
File 6d finish nails. The 2-5/8 in. distance from the ceiling to the
drywall screws, making
Hacksaw
top of the dentil is critical. The bottom of the crown molding sure the backs of the stan-
End wrench
profile needs to align with the top of the dentils (Photo 16). dards are against the wall.

For More
Information
■ “Library Shelves,” Nov./Dec.
‘94, p. 43. COLONIAL STOP
14
■ “Crown Molding,” May ‘90, RETURN (E)
NAIL THE FLUTED CASING fronts
p. 30.
(use 6d finish nails) to the front
■ “Scribing for Tighter Fits,”
“Using Tools,” May ‘93, p. 20. edge of each standard after nailing
■ “Buying Dimensional Lumber,” the plinth blocks at the bottom.
June ‘97, p. 79. Also, be sure to nail the side trim (E)
■ “Hardwood Plywood,” “Handy- even with the fronts of the stan-
man Reports,” Sept. ‘97, p. 94.
dards. Since the plinths are wider
■ “Making Door and Window FLUTED
Casings,” Feb. ‘97, p. 39. CASING (G)
than the fluted casing, you’ll need to
■ “How to Install Carpet,” Oct. ‘94, rip 1/4 in. from the width of the
p. 69. plinth against the wall.

44 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998

PLINTHS (F)
 Classic floor-to-ceiling

FILLER STRIP (D1)

E
CROWN
HEIGHT

bookcases
Use at least six screws to
secure the top directly to
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

nails in pairs every 18 in.)

to each standard (Photo
the joists. You can now 14). Fit it tightly between

1-1/4" COVE
remove the temporary the plinth and the dentil
MOLDING (H) stringers. assembly.
To give each fluted cas-
INSTALLING ing the look of a real col-
THE TRIM umn, glue and tack the
First, nail the dentil assem- cove molding (H), miter-
15 bly to the standards as ing the corners around
shown in Photo 13. It each top (Photo 15). Now
NAIL THE 1-1/4 IN. COVE MOLDING (H) to the tops of
the fluted casing. The cove molding should wrap around to should be high enough that to finish the bookcase at
meet the colonial column returns (E). the crown molding, when the ceiling, miter the
installed, will just touch the crown molding and nail it
top of the dentils (D). Our in place as shown in Photo
crown molding is 3-1/4 in. 16. NOTE: To enhance the
wide across its face, and its built-in look of the project,
CROWN MITERED bottom edge sits 2-5/8 in. we continued the crown
MOLDING (J) JOINT
below the ceiling (Fig. A). molding around the entire
Next, nail the colonial ceiling. For more on crown
stop (Fig. A) on each side molding installation, see
of the standards (E in Fig. “For More Information.”
B). Nail each piece in place
with 4d finish nails every THE LADDER
12 in., aligning it with the The rolling ladder is a
front of each standard. handsome addition to any
After the stop is nailed, nail library. We purchased ours
16 the plinth blocks (F) at the by mail (see Buyer’s
base of each standard Guide) after sending a
SET THE NAILS AFTER NAILING the crown using 8d finish nails. To dimensioned sketch of our
molding (J) into the filler strip (D2). Use 4d finish
cover the exposed faces of project. All the necessary
nails every 12 in. to nail the crown molding. Miter
each end at the outside corner and butt the other the standards, nail the hardware along with very
ends against the wall. fluted casing (use 6d finish clear instructions were
included. The ladder is a
safety hazard for small
children, so adult supervi-
Buyer’s guide sion is advised.
■ ROLLING LADDER and hard-
ware are available from Putnam
Ladder, Dept. TFH, 32 Howard St., Art Direction • MARCIA WILLISTON
New York, NY 10013; (212) 226- Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE
5147. Specify the length of rod Technical Art • EUGENE
(ours is 8 ft.) and the height of the
THOMPSON
finished ladder (ours is 7 ft.).
Available in a wide variety of
hardwoods. Rolling ladder kits are
also sold by ALACO Ladder, Dept.
TFH, 5167 G St., Chino, CA 91710; SUPPORT ROD
(909) 591-7561.

■ FLUTED CASING (4 in.) and

PLINTH BLOCKS (4-1/2 in.) are
available in a wide variety of hard-
17
woods from Woodharbor Doors & INSTALL THE ROLLING
Cabinetry, Dept. TFH, 3277 Ninth
St., Mason City, IA 50401; (515) LADDER hardware to the
423-0444. Call to order or to find a face of the cabinet accord-
dealer near you.
ing to the manufacturer’s
instructions.

46 DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998

Shopping List
ITEM QTY.
3/4” x 4’ x 8’ birch plywood 5
2x4 x 8’pine 8
1x2 x 10’ pine 1
1x4 x 10’ maple board 1
7/16” x 1-1/2” x 10’ colonial stop 2
7/16” x 1-1/2” x 8’ colonial stop 6
1-1/16” x 4-1/2” x 8” plinth blocks* 4
3/4” x 4” x 7’ fluted casing* 4
5/8” x 1-1/2” x 8’ shelf molding 7
1-1/4” x 8’ cove molding 1
3-1/4” x 10’ crown molding 1
1/4” peg-style shelf brackets 84
1-1/4” x 1/8” x 6’ flat steel 1
1-1/2” x 1-1/2” brass angle with screws 12
Carpenter’s glue 1 qt.
3/4” x 17-gauge nails 1 pkg.
1-1/4” x 17-gauge brads 1 pkg.
4d, 6d and 8d finish nails 1 lb. each
Minwax wood conditioner 2 qts.
Minwax No. 245 pecan stain 2 qts.
Minwax satin polyurethane 2 qts.
Colored putty stick 1
7-ft. rolling ladder and hardware* 1
*See Buyer’s Guide on p. 46 for mail order sources.

Cutting List
KEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTION
A 3 3/4” x 13-3/4” x 96” plywood
(trim to fit)
A1 3 3/4” x 13-3/4” x 96” plywood
(trim to fit)
A2 2 3/4” x 13-3/4” x 96” plywood
(trim to fit)
B 8 1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 96” pine
C 1 3/4” x 13-3/4” x 96” plywood
(trim to fit)
D 1 7/16” x 1-3/8” x 10’ maple colonial
stop (cut into dentils)
D1 1 7/16” x 1-3/8” x 10’ maple colonial
stop (cut to fit)
D2 1 3/4” x 3-1/2” x 10’ maple dentil
backer board
E 6 7/16” x 1-3/8” x 8’ maple colonial
stop (cut to fit)
F 4 1-1/16” x 4-1/2” x 8” maple
plinth blocks
G 4 3/4” x 4” x 7’ maple fluted casing
(cut to fit)
H 1 1-1/4” x 8’ maple cove molding
(cut to fit each column)
J 1 3-1/4” x 10’ maple crown molding
K 7 3/4” x 11-3/8” x 32” plywood
(trim to fit)
L 14 3/4” x 11-3/8” x 26” plywood
(trim to fit)
M 7 5/8” x 1-3/8” x 32” shelf molding
M1 14 5/8” x 1-3/8” x 26” shelf molding

DECEMBER / JANUARY 1998 47