SOPHIE HOOD

________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sizes: S (M) L (here shown in size S)
Length from hood to tip: approx. 102 (128) 154 cm [40¼ (50½) 60¾ inches]
Depth of hood: approx. 24 (24) 24 cm [9½ (9½) 9½ inches]
Gauge: 17 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 [4 x 4 inches] in garter stitch on a 5 mm [US8] needle
Needles: 5 mm [US8] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle
Materials: 150 (200) 250 g Eco Cashmere Vintage by Gepard (50 g = 150 m [164 yds]) or 200 (250)
350 g Alpakka Ull by Sandnes Garn (50 g = 100 m [109 yds]) or 200 (250) 300 g Cashmere
Charis by Pascuali (50 g = 110 m [122 yds]) or 200 (250) 300 g Snefnug by CaMaRose (50 g
= 110 m [122 yds]) or 200 (250) 300 g Isager Soft by Isager Yarn (50 g = 125 m [137 yds])
 PATTERN
The Sophie Hood is worked in one piece from tip to tip. It is worked flat, back and forth, in garter stitch with
built-in i-cord edges. The hood is shaped using increases and decreases, and sewn together at the end,
using mattress stitch along the back of the neck.

About increases and decreases

Increases (kfb) and decreases (k2tog and skp) are worked as follows (see video at www.petiteknit.com):
Kfb: Knit front and back; first knit into the front and then the back of the same stitch before dropping
it from the left hand needle
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.
Skp: Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

About changing yarn

If you need to change yarns while knitting, break the yarn and join the new yarn when there are 3 sts left on
the needle. Carefully weave in the ends along the i-cord edge, weaving one end in in each direction. This
gives the neatest result (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Scarf
Cast on 6 (6) 6 sts on a 5 mm [US8] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle. The first row is a WS row.

Work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 2 (RS): Work as Row 1.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 3 times (for a total of 6 rows). The next row is a WS row.

Now work increases from the WS on every 6th (8th) 10th row as follows:
Row 1 (WS): K2, kfb, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 3 (WS): Work as Row 2.
Row 4 (RS): Work as Row 2.

Work Rows 1-4 once, then work Rows 3 and 4 another 1 (2) 3 times (for a total of 6 (8) 10 rows).

Now work back and forth as established working increases at the rate stated above until there are a total of
45 (45) 45 sts on the needle or until the width of the work incl. i-cord edges is 25 (25) 25 cm [9¾ (9¾) 9¾
inches] (the width is the most important, the number of stitches is less important). The length of the work is
now approx. 80 (106) 132 cm [31½ (41¾) 52 inches]. The next row is a WS row.

2
Now the right side of the hood is worked. Continue working back and forth on the needle as established,
while the i-cord edge along one side is placed on hold. Work as follows from the WS (note that the WS is
the side of the work where the increases are placed at the beginning of the row):
Row 1 (WS): Place the first 3 sts on a stitch holder or length of leftover yarn to rest, knit to the last 3 sts on
the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif. There are now a total of 42 (42) 42 sts on the needle
(or a different number if you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width).
Row 2 (RS): Knit across.
Row 3 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.

Work Rows 1-3 once, then work Rows 2 and 3 another 15 (15) 15 times (meaning you can count 16 (16) 16
garter ridges from the row where the 3 i-cord edge sts were placed on hold).

Now there is an i-cord edge along the edge around the face, while the edge along the back of the neck does
not have an i-cord edge as this edge will be sewn together at the end using mattress stitch.

Now work decreases on every 4th row to shape the hood as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 3 (RS): Knit across.
Row 4 (WS): Work as Row 2.

Work Rows 1-4 a total of 3 (3) 3 times. There are now a total of 39 (39) 39 sts on the needle - or a different
number if you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width earlier in the pattern.

Now work decreases every 2nd row as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 6 (6) 6 times. There are now a total of 33 (33) 33 sts on the needle - or a
different number if you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width earlier in the pattern.

Now work decreases on every row as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1.
Row 2 (WS): K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 5 (5) 5 times. There are now a total of 23 (23) 23 sts on the needle - or a
different number if you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width earlier in the pattern.
The shaping of the right side of the hood has now been completed and the top point of the hood has been
reached.

3
Continue working flat, back and forth on the needle, but now work increases instead of decreases, so the
work is mirrored on the left side of the hood. The next row is a RS row.

Now work increases on every row. Work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 2 sts on the needle, kfb, k1.
Row 2 (WS): K1, kfb, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 5 (5) 5 times There are now a total of 33 (33) 33 sts on the needle - or a different
number if you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width earlier in the pattern.

Now work increases every 2nd row. Work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 2 sts on the needle, kfb, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 6 (6) 6 times There are now a total of 39 (39) 39 sts on the needle - or a different
number if you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width earlier in the pattern.

Now work increases on every 4th row to shape the hood. Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to the last 2 sts on the needle, kfb, k1.
Row 4 (WS): Work as Row 2.

Work Rows 1-4 a total of 3 (3) 3 times There are now a total of 42 (42) 42 sts on the needle - or a different
number if you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width earlier in the pattern.

Now work flat, back and forth without increases as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 17 (17) 17 times. The next row is a RS row.

The hood has now been shaped and will later be sewn together along the back of the neck using mattress stitch.

On the next row the resting i-cord sts are placed back on the needle, so the i-cord edge can be worked
again along both edges (see video at www.petiteknit.com). Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to end of row, hold the working yarn in front of the needle and place resting i-cord sts back
on the needle with the wrong side facing you, so they are sitting in extension of the other sts
on the needle. There are now a total of 45 (45) 45 sts on the needle - or a different number if
you have adjusted the number of sts to achieve the correct width earlier in the pattern.
4
Row 2 (WS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 3 (RS): Work as Row 2.

Work Rows 1-3 once, then work Rows 2 and 3 another 1 (2) 3 times. The next row is a WS row.

Now work decreases from the WS on every 6th (8th) 10th row as follows:
Row 1 (WS): K3, skp, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 3 (WS): Work as Row 2.
Row 4 (RS): Work as Row 2.

Work Rows 1-4 once, then work Rows 3 and 4 another 1 (2) 3 times (for a total of 6 (8) 10 rows).

Now work back and forth as established working decreases at the rate stated above until there are a total
of 7 sts left on the needle for all sizes. The next row is a WS row.

Work the last 6 rows as follows:

Row 1 (WS): K2, skp, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, slip the last 3 sts purl-wise wyif.
Row 3 (WS): Work as Row 2.
Row 4 (RS): Work as Row 2.
Row 5 (WS): Work as Row 2.
Row 6 (RS): Bind off the first 3 sts knit-wise, bind off the last 3 sts purl-wise.

Finishing
Sew the back of the hood together using mattress stitch (see video at www.petiteknit.com). Start at the top
and sew the sts together down towards the back of the neck. Take care not to sew it together crookedly
and not to tighten too much.

Weave in all ends discreetly.

5
Abbreviations
k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
kfb knit front and back; first knit into the front and then the back of the same stitch before dropping
it from the left hand needle
p purl
RS right side of your work
skp slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side of your work
wyif with the yarn held in front of the work
24 (24) 24 cm
[9½ (9½) 9½ inches]

102 (128) 154 cm

[40¼ (50½) 60¾ inches]
 Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2024
www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. The pattern may not be copied, resold or
redistributed in any way. Nor may you sell any items produced using the directions in this pattern.
Share your version of the Sophie Hood on Instagram with
#sophiehood #petiteknit
Happy knitting!