SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER 2020

PAGE 13

PAGE 20 PAGE 18 PAGE 6

2 Quick Tips 12 Chinese Stir-Fried Tomatoes 22 Getting Started with

Quick and easy ways to perform everyday tasks, and Eggs Sourdough Starter
from rolling out pie dough to juicing citrus.
This surprisingly complex comfort food deserves Making starter is simple, but nurturing the
COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO
a place at everyone’s table. BY JOSEPH GITTER flour-water mixture into a mature culture can
be confusing. I’ve mapped out the process and
4 A Case for Grilled Short Ribs 13 Lahmajun answered common questions.
With their rich marbling, intense beefiness, and BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN
Long before pizza came along, Armenians were
satisfying chew, boneless beef short ribs can rival
baking crisp, savory meat-and-vegetable-topped
a rib eye on the grill—at about half the cost.
BY LAN LAM
flatbreads that some consider the original 24 Next-Level Yellow Sheet Cake
thin-crust pie. BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN We make everyone’s favorite cake even better
by combining a fine, plush texture with fresh,
6 Dan Dan Mian 16 The Salty, Sweet, Smoky homemade flavor. Then we crown it with a rich
Awash in palate-jolting chili sauce and heaped with chocolate frosting. BY ANDREA GEARY
crispy bits of pork, these noodles are soul-warming Science of Bacon
street food in Sichuan. They can—and should—be We dig into the mystique behind America’s
favorite cured meat; plus, we offer tips for
26 Testing 12-Inch Ceramic
in your kitchen, too. BY LAN LAM
decoding package labels, splatter-free cooking, and Skillets
The ceramic skillets we’ve tested have never been
8 Poulet au Vinaigre even making your own. BY ELIZABETH BOMZE
able to compete with regular nonstick cookware.
This French chicken dish makes its own sauce—
and vinegar is the light that helps it shine. 18 Real Greek Salad Have they improved? BY KATE SHANNON
BY STEVE DUNN Imagine all your favorite bites of Greek salad—
sweet tomatoes; briny olives; crunchy cucumbers; 28 A Toast to Sesame Oil
Nutty and fragrant, a good-quality toasted sesame
9 Farro and Broccoli Rabe Gratin and rich, tangy feta—without the lettuce filler, and
you’ve got horiatiki salata. BY STEVE DUNN oil can enhance all kinds of dishes, but bad ones
This meatless main gets its savory backbone from just taste bitter or burnt. How do you guarantee
an everyday Japanese ingredient. great flavor? BY LISA McMANUS
BY JOSEPH GITTER 20 Coconut Rice Two Ways
Every region that grows coconuts and rice marries
30 Kitchen Notes
10 How to Make Chana Masala them to make the grains rich and fragrant. Here
are two of our favorite—and very different— BY STEVE DUNN, ANDREA GEARY & LAN LAM
The wildly popular Indian dish of chickpeas
versions. BY ANDREA GEARY
simmered until tender in a tangy, fragrantly spiced
tomato-ginger sauce is a dinnertime hero.
32 Equipment Corner
BY MIYE BROMBERG, RIDDLEY
BY ANDREA GEARY
GEMPERLEIN-SCHIRM & LISA McMANUS

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enough to grasp the pole of a frog Grilled Boneless Beef Short Ribs
Senior Director, Creative Operations Alice Carpenter
Deputy Editor, Culinary Content and Curriculum net in our hands, my dad bought (page 5). The round, buttery-sweet
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Assistant Editors, Editorial Operations Tess Berger, poles, bullfrogs, leopard frogs, and baby painted of red wine vinegar evaporating from a bubbling pan
Sara Zatopek turtles as we could during the day, adding each of Steve Dunn’s Poulet au Vinaigre (Chicken with
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september & october 2020

1
 Make Seedless Jalapeño
Rings with a Vegetable

QUI C K TI P S Peeler To create neat rings of

jalapeños without the seeds or spicy
ribs when garnishing nachos and the
like, Nate Cobb of Jamaica Plain,
Mass., employs a vegetable peeler.

Some of the best tips you’ve shared with

us call for using kitchen gadgets and other
household items in unexpected ways.
Here are a few of our favorites.
j COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO k

Wine Bottle Turned Rolling Pin

In a pinch, Shinei Tsukamoto of San Ramon, Calif., found that an unopened wine
bottle has the right weight and shape for rolling out pie dough. And if you hap-
pen to have a bottle of white wine in the refrigerator, the cold temperature will
Round Cutter help keep the butter in the dough chilled.
Roasting Rack
Finding herself without a roast-
ing rack, Susan Chi of Lawrence,
Kan., improvised by placing several 1. Cut off stem end of jalapeño with
open-style round metal cutters in the knife, then insert peeler into chile.
bottom of a roasting pan. She then Using circular motion, core jalapeño
placed the chicken to be roasted and pull out ribs and seeds.
on top of the cutters, suspending it 2. Shake any remaining seeds out of
above the bottom of the pan. jalapeño, then slice into rings.

Prevent Grater Nicks with Crush Aromatics with a

a Mandoline Guard Meat Pounder
After injuring her finger on a box Smashing garlic or ginger with
grater one too many times, Ellie the flat side of a knife blade can
Sweeney of Melrose, Mass., now feel unsteady, so Doug Schifter
spears the food she is prepping with of Thornhurst, Pa., uses a meat
the long prongs of her mandoline Faster Tomato Coring with a Pastry Tip pounder to quickly and safely do
guard. Just as it grips food and Dawn Jacobson of Vallejo, Calif., found another use for the large star pastry tip the job instead.
protects her hands from that tool’s she gets out just once a year to make spritz cookies: coring tomatoes. She pierces
sharp blade, it also prevents painful the tomato at the stem scar with the pointed end of the tip, twists the tip to cut,
nicks on the grater and allows her and then lifts it to remove the core.
to prep without worry. (To prevent
the tines of the guard from snagging
on the grater, she stops an inch or
so from the end of the food.)

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cook’s illustrated
2
 Quickly Dice Butter Easier Herb Plucking with a Colander
with an Egg Slicer Plucking the leaves from a bunch of tender herbs such as cilantro and dill can be
Carolyn Winslow of Bellingham, tedious and time-consuming. Carly Helmetag of Somerville, Mass., has found that
Wash., uses an egg slicer to cut threading the stems through the holes of her colander (starting from the inside
butter into small pieces for pie and pulling them through) makes quick work of the task—plus, the bowl collects
dough and biscuits. She places up to the leaves.
4 tablespoons of butter in an egg
slicer and pushes down on the slicer
to create planks. She then rotates
the butter a quarter turn and pushes
down again to create small pieces.

Move Delicate Cakes with

a Rimless Baking Sheet
When Kristina Feigin of Andover,
Mass., made a cake that called for
halving the layers, she found that
a rimless baking sheet easily slid
between the delicate halves. This
made transferring the layers to a
cake stand for frosting neat and easy.
Drain Capers with Juice Citrus in a Ricer
a Tea Strainer While handheld juicers work well
Rather than use a large colander to for smaller citrus, a bulky grapefruit No-Fuss Ice Water via
drain brine-packed capers, Sandy hardly fits inside the small a Fat Separator
Finkel of Encino, Calif., turns to chamber. Lacking an electric When making pie dough or any
her tea strainer. The tool, which option, Stephanie Streeter of other recipe requiring ice water,
fits inside a teacup, is ideal for an Brookline, N.H., uses a potato ricer Vivienne Shen of Southington,
ingredient usually measured out in to extract juice from a grapefruit. Conn., puts ice cubes and water
small quantities, and its tight-knit She quarters the fruit, loads it into into a fat separator. She can then
weave prevents the tiny the hopper, and squeezes. measure out the water she needs
capers from falling through. through the spout,
leaving the
ice behind.
Pot Holders Get a Grip
on Corn Silk
Bart McSpadden of Edmond, Okla.,
has found a handy tool for removing
the fine hairs from fresh corn: a
silicone pot holder. Rubbing the
grippy mat around the shucked ear
from one end to the other loosens
and grabs the silky strands.

Break Up Ground Meat Bundt Pan as Vertical

with a Pastry Cutter Roaster Stand-In
Annie Guba-Boruch of While we like vertical roasters
Waterbury, Conn., reaches because they produce evenly
for her pastry cutter cooked poultry with crispy skin,
whenever she needs to cut many cooks don’t own one. A tall
cold butter or shortening beer can is a good substitute, but
into flour. When attempting Julianne Douglas of Providence,
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

to break up a batch of ground R.I., has found another stand-in: a

meat cooking in her Dutch Bundt pan. She slides the chicken
oven, she came up with onto the center post of the pan,
another use for the tool: legs facing down, so that the
The sharp, parallel blades chicken stands upright. She then
easily and neatly chop meat places the pan on a rimmed baking
for more even cooking. sheet and transfers it to the oven.

september & october 2020

3
 A Case for Grilled Short Ribs
With their rich marbling, intense beefiness, and satisfying chew, boneless
beef short ribs can rival a rib eye on the grill—at about half the cost.
j BY LAN LAM k

T
he best steaks for searing over
hot coals are those that have
enough fat and beefy flavor to
support the smoky, charred aro-
mas that the meat acquires during grilling.
Meaty rib eyes and strip steaks fit the bill—
but they are a real splurge. So what if I told
you that there is an equally flavorful cut
that will run you only about half as much?
Boneless beef short ribs are ribboned with
fat and grill up as juicy as can be, with a
satisfying chew similar to that of flank or
skirt steak.
The seams of fat that run through beef
short ribs are responsible for the incredible
flavor that they can achieve on a grill. As
with any well-marbled steak, as the beef
cooks, fatty acids form aromatic com-
pounds. It’s these compounds that enhance
the meat’s rich, beefy taste. Meanwhile, the
proteins on the surface of the ribs brown
and contribute roasty flavors. Finally, the
fat-laden juices drip onto the coals, creat-
ing flare-ups that impart charred savoriness
to the meat.

Making Short Work

To get my bearings, I reviewed several
existing recipes. Many start with a mari-
nade, which I rejected out of hand, since Producing succulent ribs couldn’t be more straightforward: Salt before grilling, cook to medium, and slice against the grain.
a marinade flavors only the surface of the
meat and would be barely noticeable in a cut this I decided to try a method that we’ve used on the end, so a few were done after just three of their
thick. But I decided to give the grilling approach used stovetop for other thick cuts of beef, pork chops, sides were browned. It was better to flip them every
by most recipes a test run. It’s the same technique and even swordfish. It calls for repeatedly flipping minute until they were well seared on all sides and
that is often suggested for a rib-eye or strip steak: the protein over high heat until it comes up to had come up to temperature, checking the smaller
Sprinkle with salt and sear over hot coals until the temperature. (Boneless short ribs are so thick and ones early and often.
meat reaches a rosy medium-rare, flipping it halfway chunky that I’d need to grill them on all four sides, Speaking of temperature, to determine how high
through searing. But although boneless short ribs not just the top and bottom.) The upshot is that the to take the ribs, I cooked half a batch to medium-rare
grilled this way had a deeply beefy taste, the meat was interior warms evenly and gently, since each time the and the remainder to medium. A few years ago while
unevenly seasoned and rather chewy. What’s more, meat is flipped, the side not touching the pan (or the working on a grilled skirt steak recipe, I learned
the short ribs’ blocky shape and roughly 1½-inch cooking grate in this case) cooks via residual heat, that cooking tougher cuts to medium instead of
thickness meant that by the time their centers were producing rosiness from edge to edge. Meanwhile, medium-rare causes the muscle fibers to shrink and
up to temperature, their exteriors were burnt. I knew a rich, dark crust builds up gradually. separate, making the meat more tender—and in a
that I could do a lot better. well-marbled cut, the rendered fat makes up for any
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE

I started by ensuring that the meat would be A Searing Success loss of juices. I suspected that short ribs would also
thoroughly seasoned, sprinkling 2½ teaspoons of To produce a concentrated area of heat, I spread benefit from this treatment.
kosher salt onto 2 pounds of boneless ribs that I’d hot coals over just one side of the grill. I then
cut into 3- to 4-inch lengths. I let the ribs sit for an seared the ribs on each of their four sides for 2 to FOR NUTRITION
hour—plenty of time for the sodium ions to pen- 3 minutes per side. But I soon realized that I wasn’t INFORMATION AND MORE
etrate deep into the muscle fibers. While they sat, flipping them often enough. Boneless short ribs are Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20
I considered the best way to grill them. not uniformly sized and some are tapered at one

cook’s illustrated
4
 Inside, after letting the ribs rest for 10 minutes, 2 pounds boneless beef short ribs, trimmed
I sliced them thin against the grain to shorten the 2½ teaspoons kosher salt
meat fibers—another trick to ensure that each bite 1 teaspoon pepper
is tender. Both samples were juicy and beefy, with
deeply browned crusts, and just as I had suspected, 1. Cut ribs into 3- to 4-inch lengths. Sprinkle all
the 130-degree ribs were more tender. sides with salt and pepper. Let sit at room tempera-
ture for 1 hour.
The Bright Side 2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bot-
I love these steaks with nothing more than a sprinkle tom vent completely. Light large chimney starter KIMCHI-SCALLION SAUCE
of flake sea salt and a spritz of tart lemon juice to mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When SERVES 6 (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP)

balance their richness, but they’re also terrific with a top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS 15 MINUTES RESTING

bold, bright sauce: I whipped up two that get their over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover,
backbones from fermented products. The first fea- and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, Cider vinegar or seasoned rice vinegar can be substi-
tures kimchi combined with a hit of fresh scallions; about 5 minutes. tuted for the unseasoned rice vinegar.
the second marries citrus and nuts in the form of 2B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to
tangy, floral preserved lemon and crunchy toasted high; cover; and heat grill until hot, about 15 min- 6 scallions, sliced thin
almonds. No matter how you serve these steaks, utes. Turn off 1 burner (if using grill with more than ⅓ cup finely chopped kimchi
I guarantee that you’ll be getting more than your 2 burners, turn off burner farthest from primary ¼ cup vegetable oil
money’s worth. burner) and leave other burner(s) on high. 4 teaspoons soy sauce
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange ribs on 4 teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar
GRILLED BONELESS BEEF SHORT RIBS hotter side of grill. Cook (covered if using gas), flip- ¼ teaspoon sugar
SERVES 4 TO 6 ping ribs every minute, until meat is well browned on
TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR SALTING all sides and registers about 130 degrees at thickest Stir all ingredients together in bowl. Let sit for
part, 8 to 14 minutes. (Ribs will be very pale after first 15 minutes. Stir well before using. (Sauce can be
This recipe was developed using Diamond Crystal flip but will continue to brown as they cook. This cut refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Let sit at room
Kosher Salt. If you’re using Morton Kosher Salt, which can quickly overcook; start checking temperature of temperature for 15 minutes before serving.)
is denser, use only 1¾ teaspoons of salt. We like these smaller ribs after 8 minutes.)
ribs cooked to about 130 degrees (medium). If you 4. Transfer ribs to cutting board, tent with alu-
prefer them medium-rare, remove the ribs from minum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Slice ribs as
the grill when they register 125 degrees. Serve with thin as possible against grain. (Grain runs diagonally,
lemon wedges and flake sea salt or with one of our so as long as you slice lengthwise, you will be cutting
sauces (recipes follow). against grain.) Serve.

The Skinny on
Boneless Short Ribs
THE VERSATILE
BONELESS SHORT RIB
Most of us have enjoyed meltingly tender boneless short ribs PRESERVED LEMON–ALMOND SAUCE
A CONFUSING CUT
braised to about 195 degrees. So why is the same cut also good Despite its name, the boneless short rib SERVES 6 (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP)
when grilled to only 130 degrees? It has to do with its high fat TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS 15 MINUTES RESTING
isn’t cut from the rib of a cow. Instead,
and collagen contents. Both melted fat and broken-down col- it is cut from the area above the ribs
lagen impart juiciness to meat. While long, slow braising breaks closest to the chuck, or shoulder, of Sliced almonds provide a delicate crunch; do not
the animal, where most of the meat is
down most of the collagen, turning a short rib fall-apart tender, made up of the heavily marbled
substitute slivered or whole almonds.
even quick, high-heat grilling will still break down some collagen, serratus ventralis muscle.
bolstering the juiciness of the meat. 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
¼ cup sliced almonds, chopped
½ cup minced fresh parsley
SLICING AGAINST THE GRAIN 2 tablespoons finely chopped preserved
Meat is made up of bundles of muscle fibers that run lemon plus 2 tablespoons brine
GRAI parallel to one another. The fibers form a pattern that 2 tablespoons lemon juice
N
is referred to as the “grain”; it looks similar to wood ¼ teaspoon sugar
grain. Slicing against the grain means cutting the fibers
into shorter pieces. This makes tougher cuts such Combine 1 tablespoon oil and almonds in 8-inch
as boneless short ribs more pleasant to eat because skillet; toast over medium-high heat, stirring constantly,
E
IC shorter lengths of muscle fibers are easier to chew. until almonds are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes.
SL
It’s easy to cut boneless short ribs against the grain Immediately transfer to bowl. Stir in parsley, preserved
because the muscle fibers tend to run diagonally. That lemon and brine, lemon juice, sugar, and remaining
means that as long as you slice the meat lengthwise, ¼ cup oil. Let sit for 15 minutes. Stir well before using.
you’ll be cutting against the grain. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Let sit
at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.)

september & october 2020

5
 Dan Dan Mian
Awash in palate-jolting chili sauce and heaped with crispy bits of pork, these noodles are
soul-warming street food in Sichuan. They can—and should—be in your kitchen, too.
j BY LAN LAM k

I
f you love noodles and Sichuan food,
you’re probably well versed in dan
dan mian and all its chewy, spicy,
electric glory. The dish, named for
the pole that vendors use to tote ingre-
dients, is iconic street food within the
province, where diners savor even the act
of mixing together their own portion—
a custom known as “ban.” The ritual
starts with four color-blocked elements
neatly composed in a bowl: a pool of vivid
red chili sauce, a mound of ivory wheat
noodles, crispy browned bits of seasoned
ground pork, and lengths of jade-green
baby bok choy. Then, with the nudge of
your chopsticks, all that color, heat, and
savory tang washes over the noodles—and
then your palate. Just as the numbing
sensation and richness builds and nearly
overwhelms your tastebuds, a juicy, cool-
ing piece of bok choy swoops in and resets
your system for the next bite. If there’s a
more dynamic noodle-eating experience
out there, I don’t know it.
And yet, I’d rarely made dan dan mian
until recently. The hang-up wasn’t about
the cooking; even though there are four
components, each one is fast and simple to
prepare. It was about sourcing the handful of
very particular ingredients that make dan dan
mian so complex. Without a robust Sichuan
pantry, I was missing many of them—and
my impression had always been that this is
not a dish where I could just hack it with
substitutions and expect to get it right.
But when I ran a diagnostic breakdown
of the dish, sussing out where I could and
couldn’t compromise, I learned that my
assumption was only partially true. Yes,
there were a few must-haves to seek out,
but there was also a good bit of ingredient
flexibility that helped bring dan dan mian
within my grasp. Zeroing in so deeply also
prompted me to polish up a few steps along [ LONG, SPRINGY NOODLES ]
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE

the way so that the flavors and textures of The noodles should soak up the sauce, capture the crumbly bits of
the dish really popped. Now I knock out a pork, and deliver springy chew. Fresh, thin, egg-free Chinese wheat
version whenever I want, and you should, noodles are the standard for dan dan mian, but fresh lo mein and
too. Because the only thing more satisfy- ramen check all those boxes, too. Even dried lo mein works, as long
ing than tucking into a bowl yourself will as you use half as much. Whichever kind you use, be sure to give
be hearing your friends and family clamor the noodles a thorough rinse after cooking them to remove their
for seconds. sticky surface starch. Otherwise, they’ll fuse into a doughy mass.

cook’s illustrated
6
 [ SPICY, DEEPLY FRAGRANT DAN DAN MIAN (SICHUAN NOODLES
CHILI SAUCE ] WITH CHILI SAUCE AND PORK) blanched
Sichuan chili oil is the base of the sauce that reddens, SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS bok choy
pork
lubricates, and lights up the noodles with má (“numb- topping
ing”) là (“spicy”) flavor. Making your own usually involves If you can’t find Sichuan chili powder, substitute
heating spices and sometimes aromatics in neutral oil Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru). Sichuan
and letting the mixture sit for several days to draw out peppercorns provide a tingly, numbing sensation
noodles
maximum flavor. But I found that you can make a good that’s important to this dish; find them in the spice
version by gently heating Sichuan chili powder (you can aisle at Asian markets. We prefer the chewy texture
substitute Korean gochugaru, which is a tad milder), of fresh, eggless Chinese wheat noodles here. If they
ground Sichuan peppercorns (their numbing sensation is aren’t available, substitute fresh lo mein or ramen
critical here), and cinnamon in oil for just 10 minutes. noodles or 8 ounces of dried lo mein noodles. Ya
Turning that oil into a deeply savory sauce is simply cai, Sichuan preserved mustard greens, gives these
a matter of whisking in a handful of bottled condiments noodles a savory and pungent boost; you can buy it chili sauce
and pastes. Soy sauce is the easy one, and balsamic online or at an Asian market (for more information,
vinegar can mimic the fruity tang of Chinese black vin- see page 31). If ya cai is unavailable, omit it and
egar. Traditionally, it’s a combination of Chinese sweet increase the soy sauce in step 2 to 2 teaspoons. This
wheat and sesame pastes that adds earthy, faintly dish can be served warm or at room temperature.
sweet depth and thickens the mixture, but hoisin and Our recipe for Dan Dan Mian (Sichuan Noodles
tahini make admirable stand-ins. Don’t worry if the oil with Chili Sauce and Pork) for Two is available for
separates and pools as the sauce sits; it’s normal—and free for four months at CooksIllustrated.com/oct20.
quite pretty.
Sauce TECHNIQUE BUILD THE BOWL
¼ cup vegetable oil
Proper dan dan mian starts with carefully com-
[ CRISPY, SAVORY PORK TOPPING ] 1 tablespoon Sichuan chili powder
posing the four elements (chili sauce, noodles,
Tender, juicy meat is not the goal here. What you want is 2 teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns, ground fine
pork topping, and blanched bok choy) in the
a crispy, umami-rich seasoning that clings to the noodles. ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
bowl. Doing so allows diners to enjoy the visual
To get it really fine-textured and brown, I smear the 2 tablespoons soy sauce
contrast of each plated portion as well as the
ground pork into a thin layer across the wok with a rub- 2 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar or
act of tossing everything together—a Sichuan
ber spatula, jab at it with the tool’s edge to break it up balsamic vinegar
custom known as “ban.” Above is a breakdown
into bits, and sear it hard—really hard. The end result 2 teaspoons sweet wheat paste or hoisin sauce
of how to layer everything in the bowl.
is fine bits of pork 1½ teaspoons Chinese sesame paste or tahini
with crispy edges.
Then I stir in Noodles into ¼-inch chunks with edge of spatula and
minced garlic and 8 ounces ground pork cook, stirring frequently, until pork is firm and well
grated ginger, 2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry browned, about 5 minutes. Push pork mixture to far
followed by a 1 teaspoon soy sauce side of wok and add garlic, ginger, and remaining
big scoop of the 2 small heads baby bok choy (about 3 ounces each) 1 teaspoon oil to cleared space. Cook, stirring con-
Sichuan pickle 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, divided stantly, until garlic mixture begins to brown, about
called ya cai. Made 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 minute. Stir to combine pork mixture with garlic
by fermenting the 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger mixture. Remove wok from heat.
stalks of a Chinese 1 pound fresh Chinese wheat noodles 4. Add bok choy to boiling water and cook until
mustard plant, it adds tangy, complex, subtly spicy funk. ⅓ cup ya cai leaves are vibrant green and stems are crisp-tender,
There’s nothing quite like it (even in Sichuan, where 2 scallions, sliced thin on bias about 1 minute. Using slotted spoon or spider
fermented foods are a particular speciality), and since skimmer, transfer boy choy to plate; set aside. Add
it’s shelf-stable, you may as well stock up on it for future 1. FOR THE SAUCE: Heat oil, chili powder, noodles to boiling water and cook, stirring often,
dan dan mian. (For more information, see “Bring On peppercorns, and cinnamon in 14-inch wok or until almost tender (center should still be firm
the [Preserved Vegetable] Funk,” page 31.) 12-inch nonstick skillet over low heat for 10 min- with slightly opaque dot). Drain noodles. Rinse
utes. Using rubber spatula, transfer oil mixture to under hot running water, tossing with tongs, for
bowl (do not wash wok). Whisk soy sauce, vinegar, 1 minute. Drain well.
wheat paste, and sesame paste into oil mixture. 5. Divide noodles evenly among prepared bowls.
[ PLUMP, JUICY BOK CHOY ] Divide evenly among 4 shallow bowls. Return wok with pork to medium heat. Add ya cai
Blanching baby bok choy brightens its color and slightly 2. FOR THE NOODLES: Bring 4 quarts and cook, stirring frequently, until warmed through,
softens its texture, but that softening does more than water to boil in large pot. While water comes to about 2 minutes. Spoon equal amounts of pork top-
tenderize. It frees water from the cell walls, giving the boil, combine pork, Shaoxing wine, and soy sauce ping over noodles. Divide bok choy evenly among
vegetable its juicy, palate-cleansing effect. To create in medium bowl and toss with your hands until well bowls, shaking to remove excess moisture as you
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN

bite-size pieces that soften at the same rate, I trim the combined. Set aside. Working with 1 head bok choy portion. Top with scallions and serve, leaving each
base of each bulb, which causes the larger outer leaves to at a time, trim base (larger leaves will fall off) and diner to stir components together before eating.
separate, and then halve the bulb lengthwise. The pieces halve lengthwise through core. Rinse well.
need only a minute-long dunk in the water before they’re 3. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in now-empty wok over FOR NUTRITION
crisp-tender (save the water to boil the noodles!), and medium-high heat until shimmering. Add reserved INFORMATION AND MORE
there’s no need to fuss with shocking in an ice bath, since pork mixture and use rubber spatula to smear into Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20
they will cool quickly once transferred to a plate. thin layer across surface of wok. Break up meat

september & october 2020

7
 Poulet au Vinaigre
This French chicken dish makes its own sauce—and vinegar is the light that helps it shine.
j BY STEVE DUNN k

W
hen I was a culinary stu- As I poured the vibrant, savory sauce around a
dent in France, my most platter of bronzed, juicy chicken, I smiled, knowing
enduring food memories that I now had the means to enjoy one of my favorite
were made in the rustic French dishes whenever the mood struck.
bouchons of Lyon. That’s where I expe-
rienced poulet au vinaigre, a dish that POULET AU VINAIGRE
exemplifies the simple and stellar every- (CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR)
day French cooking known as “la cuisine SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS
traditionnelle française.”
As you might guess, the sauce for poulet Use an inexpensive dry white wine here. Our recipe
au vinaigre features vinegar—the bright, for Poulet au Vinaigre (Chicken with Vinegar)
tangy red wine type—but it also includes for Two is available for free for four months at
white wine, chicken broth, fresh tomato, CooksIllustrated.com/oct20.
anise-y tarragon, and a bit of heavy cream.
White wine is used so as not to impart too 8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed
much color to the chicken; the red wine 1¼ teaspoons table salt
vinegar adds tannic intensity and sharpness ¾ teaspoon pepper
to the creamy, satisfying sauce. 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
The dish comes together easily. Bone-in, 1 large shallot, minced
skin-on chicken pieces (usually both light 2 garlic cloves, sliced thin
and dark meat) are first browned in a skillet, 1 cup chicken broth
and then one of two avenues is taken: The 1 cup dry white wine
chicken is either pan-roasted before being Red wine vinegar and dry white wine team up in a sauce that is ⅓ cup red wine vinegar, plus extra for seasoning
removed so that the sauce can be built in the scented with tarragon. 1 tablespoon tomato paste
empty skillet, or the liquid ingredients are 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled
added to the browned chicken and used as a braising followed by chicken broth. Most recipes call for a 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon
medium that is later reduced into a luxurious sauce. 2:1 ratio of wine to vinegar, so I added 1 cup of the
For my version, the braising method was the way former and ½ cup of the latter along with the broth. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and
to go. It was more convenient than pan roasting and I nestled the chicken into the liquid skin side up and heat oven to 325 degrees. Pat chicken dry with paper
building a separate sauce, and it essentially created a slid the pan into a 325-degree oven to gently braise. towels and sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper.
ready-made sauce as the dish simmered. I also opted After about 40 minutes, the chicken hit 195 degrees, Heat oil in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium heat
to use only thighs, as dark meat would turn luscious the temperature at which dark meat is silky and succu- until shimmering. Add chicken, skin side down, and
and tender during braising, not to mention that the lent because its collagen has turned to supple gelatin. cook, without moving it, until well browned, about
rich meat was well suited to the lively sauce. I kept the thighs covered on a plate while 8 minutes. Using tongs, flip chicken and brown on
I started by arranging the thighs skin side down I reduced the braising liquid, which was now rein- second side, about 3 minutes. Transfer chicken to
in a hot, oiled skillet. Once the fat was rendered and forced with chicken juices. When the sauce was nicely large plate.
the skin was deeply browned, I flipped the chicken thickened, I finished it with fresh tarragon; a peeled, 2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet.
and browned the other side before removing it. In seeded, and diced tomato; and a drizzle of cream. Add shallot and garlic and cook, stirring frequently,
went some minced shallot and sliced garlic to soften, The chicken was incredibly moist and tender, but until garlic is golden brown, about 1½ minutes. Add
the sauce was too sharp. An extra pour of cream mel- broth, wine, and vinegar; bring to simmer, scraping
lowed the tanginess, but then the sauce seemed overly up any browned bits. Return chicken to skillet, skin
Make It Your Way rich. To bring things into balance, I dropped the vin- side up (skin will be above surface of liquid). Transfer
Fresh tarragon is traditional for poulet au vinaigre, egar to ⅓ cup. And finishing the sauce with a couple skillet to oven and bake, uncovered, until chicken
but parsley can be substituted. Likewise, dry pats of butter instead of cream enriched it without registers 195 degrees, 35 to 40 minutes. PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW JANJIGIAN
vermouth can stand in for the wine. Leftovers the dulling effects of excess water and creamy dairy. 3. Using tongs, transfer chicken to clean serving
reheat well, but the recipe can also be halved: Use a The dish now embodied la cuisine traditionnelle platter and tent with aluminum foil. Place skillet over
10-inch skillet and keep the cooking times the same. française: It was full of flavor, uncomplicated, and high heat. Whisk tomato paste into liquid and bring
unfussy. Well, there was one minor annoyance: having to boil. Cook, occasionally scraping side of skillet to
to peel, seed, and dice a tomato. To eliminate that incorporate fond, until sauce is thickened and reduced
FOR NUTRITION step, I turned to one of my favorite flavor enhancers, to 1¼ cups, 5 to 7 minutes. Off heat, whisk in but-
INFORMATION AND MORE tomato paste. Just a tablespoon whisked into the ter and tarragon. Season with salt, pepper, and up
Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20 reducing sauce was a fuss-free way to add sweet-tart to 1 teaspoon extra vinegar (added ¼ teaspoon at a
umami notes without having to mess with a tomato. time) to taste. Pour sauce around chicken and serve.

cook’s illustrated
8
 Farro and Broccoli Rabe Gratin
This meatless main gets its savory backbone from an everyday Japanese ingredient.
j BY JOSEPH GITTER k

M
any gratins trade almost
FARRO AND BROCCOLI RABE GRATIN
entirely on the richness of SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS
heavy cream and cheese,
but there is room to Do not substitute pearl, quick-cooking, or pre-
modernize—and lighten up—the concept steamed farro for the whole farro in this recipe.
to create a satisfying meatless main course.
My plan was to keep the usual crunchy 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
topping but pack the filling with sub- 1 onion, chopped fine
stantial, boldly flavored ingredients. And ¼ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking
just because the dish would be vegetarian broccoli rabe
didn’t mean it would have to lack depth. 1½ cups whole farro
I took inspiration from the classic Tuscan 2 cups vegetable broth
dish of beans and greens, a union of white 2 tablespoons white miso
beans and escarole or Swiss chard seasoned ½ cup panko bread crumbs
with onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes. To ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
turn the dish into a hearty main, it seemed 1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into
fitting to add another Tuscan staple— 2-inch pieces
farro—to the mix. The tender chew and 6 garlic cloves, minced
robust nuttiness of the hulled whole-wheat ⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
kernels would round out the gratin. 1 (15-ounce) can small white beans or navy
To start, I sautéed a chopped onion in beans, rinsed
olive oil to the point of caramelized sweet- ¾ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes,
ness and then added the farro to bring forth chopped
its earthy taste. Once the grains were lightly
toasted, I poured in more water than was 1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large saucepan over
needed to hydrate the grains and let the medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and salt
mixture simmer until they were just tender. and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to
By that point, the liquid had thickened to a 7 minutes. Stir in farro and cook, stirring occasion-
lush, silky consistency, thanks to the starch Grated Parmesan and panko that’s toasted in the microwave ally, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Stir in
that had escaped from the grains. make a crunchy, salty-savory topping. 2½ cups water, broth, and miso; bring to simmer;
Next up, the greens. Instead of the usual and cook, stirring often, until farro is just tender and
escarole or chard, I chose broccoli rabe for its sturdier I quickly sautéed the blanched rabe with the garlic remaining liquid has thickened into creamy sauce,
structure, vivid hue, and pungent taste. And yet, when and red pepper flakes and then stirred in a can of 25 to 35 minutes.
the rabe was simply sautéed, its bitterness overtook the drained white beans and a good amount of sweet-tart, 2. Meanwhile, toss panko with 1 tablespoon oil
dish. For the next batch, I briefly blanched the rabe to umami-packed sun-dried tomatoes, whose concen- in bowl and microwave, stirring occasionally, until
soften its sharp edge. Now it still offered personality trated pops of flavor and tender chew were brilliant golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in Parmesan and
without outshining the farro. counterpoints to the creamy beans and peppery rabe. set aside.
The dish was coming together nicely, but the 3. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven.
farro itself still tasted a little plain. Subbing vegetable Add broccoli rabe and 1 tablespoon salt and cook
The Magic of Miso broth for some of the water used to simmer the grains until just tender, about 2 minutes. Drain broccoli
When we wanted to bolster our gratin with helped a little—but not enough. Umami-rich ancho- rabe and set aside. Combine remaining 1 tablespoon
savory depth, we turned to an essential ingredient vies are frequently used in Italian cooking to build oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in now-empty pot and
in the Japanese kitchen: flavor, but I gave them a pass so that I could keep the cook over medium heat until fragrant and sizzling,
PHOTOGRAPHY: DANIEL J. VAN ACKERE

white miso. The meal vegetarian. Instead, I took a cross-cultural assist 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in reserved broccoli rabe and
fermented soybean from a Japanese ingredient: miso. Just 2 tablespoons cook until hot and well coated, about 2 minutes.
paste delivers of white miso stirred into the farro cooking liquid Off heat, stir in beans, tomatoes, and farro mixture.
salty, sweet, and infused the grains with an underlying savoriness and Season with salt and pepper to taste.
umami flavors, all contributed a bit of body that helped bind the filling 4. Adjust oven rack 10 inches from broiler ele-
while keeping the into a cohesive whole. ment and heat broiler. Transfer bean-farro mixture
dish vegetarian. The All that was left was to transfer the mixture to a to broiler-safe 3-quart gratin dish (or broiler-safe
thick paste also adds gratin dish, sprinkle on a combo of microwave-toasted 13 by 9-inch baking dish) and sprinkle with reserved
body to the filling. panko bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese, and slide panko mixture. Broil until lightly browned and hot,
my revamped gratin under the broiler to brown. 1 to 2 minutes. Serve.

september & october 2020

9
 How to Make Chana Masala
The wildly popular Indian dish of chickpeas simmered until tender in a tangy,
fragrantly spiced tomato-ginger sauce is a dinnertime hero.
j BY ANDREA GEARY k

T
he allure of chana masala, better than the fresh ones available at the
arguably one of the most supermarket 10 months out of the year.
popular vegetarian dishes in I wanted a smooth sauce, so for my next
India, is multifaceted. First, batch I decided to puree canned whole
the visuals: Golden chickpeas glimmer tomatoes, which have a fresh flavor and
in an orangey-red tomato sauce, with break down readily in the food processor.
a small side salad providing a pop of I moved on to the onion, ginger,
green. Then, the fragrance: The aromas and garlic. For this dish (and many
of spices, ginger, and garlic perfume other Indian dishes) these aromatics are
the dish. Finally, the taste: The yield- ground to a paste to produce big flavor
ing, almost creamy chickpeas and feisty without a distracting texture. In many
sauce are balanced by the freshness and Indian homes, an appliance called a
crunch of onion, chile, and cilantro. mixer grinder is used to do this job, but
It’s also a practical dish, since it comes I used a food processor. While I was at it,
together easily and it calls for inexpen- I added the stems of the cilantro sprigs
sive, readily available ingredients. I had set aside for the salad, along with
To come up with my own version, a serrano chile.
I reviewed several recipes. Some started I fried the paste in a tablespoon
with dried chickpeas that required soak- of oil until it was soft and brown and
ing, along with fresh tomatoes that had then added my spice mixture, which I had
to be peeled and chopped, while others bolstered with fennel seeds and sweet,
called for canned products. But once the earthy turmeric for more depth. I added
ingredients were prepped, the method the drained chickpeas, the tomato puree,
was similar: Fry a paste of onion, ginger, and 1 cup of water before letting it all
and garlic in oil. Stir in spices such as simmer for 15 minutes.
cumin, garam masala, and a mild chile I was making progress, but I wasn’t
powder (Kashmiri chile powder is tra- there yet. The turmeric and fennel had
ditional, but paprika is a common sub), added depth, but I wanted more; plus,
and then add the tomatoes, chickpeas, the dish was too lean. Increasing the
and some water. Simmer until the chick- oil from 1 to 3 tablespoons solved both
peas are soft and the sauce has thickened; problems: Besides adding richness, the
then serve with rice, naan (or bhature; Fresh cilantro leaves, chopped red onion, and thinly sliced serrano chiles are a extra fat emboldened the spices (fat carries
see “Bread on the Side”), and the salad. lively finish to this easy-to-make vegetarian dish. flavor, especially the fat-soluble flavors in
But none of these versions matched spices). It also contributed much-needed
the stellar examples I’d eaten in the past. Several Can-Do body to the sauce, though not enough.
seemed lean and austere, the kind of thing devout My first round of testing had yielded one happy dis- The next time around, instead of draining and
carnivores expect vegetarian food to be. In some, covery: There was no advantage in starting with dried rinsing the cans of chickpeas, I added their contents—
the chickpeas were so soft that they were escaping chickpeas and fresh tomatoes. Canned chickpeas liquid and all—to the pan and omitted the additional
their skins; in others, they remained too snappy. And were not only nicely seasoned but also 90 percent water. Admittedly, it’s not canonical, but that liquid
the dishes lacked the nuanced spice flavor and heady of the way to the ideal tender but intact texture. is full of proteins and carbohydrates, which boosted
aroma that are the hallmarks of chana masala. And canned tomatoes were sweet and tangy—far the savoriness and consistency of the sauce nicely.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW JANJIGIAN
The Missing Link
For Multidimensional Flavor, Stagger Spices Still, the flavor wasn’t complex enough. It jumped
The European tradition generally calls for adding spices to dishes early on straight from the earthy, foundational flavors of
so that their flavors have time to diffuse throughout the food. But in Indian turmeric, cumin, and beans to the overt grassiness of
cooking, the approach is more nuanced. Though there aren’t any hard-and-fast the cilantro, chile, and onion, with nothing bridging
rules, generally, the spices that are meant to permeate and offer background the gap. A friend with a deep knowledge of Indian
flavor—here, paprika, cumin, turmeric, and fennel—are added early. Spices that cooking guessed my misstep: “No garam masala?”
are meant to provide vibrant top notes—garam masala in this case—are added I’d been adding it all along; the problem was that
toward the end, as prolonged cooking drives off some volatile compounds. I’d been adding it too early. In Indian cuisine, the

cook’s illustrated
10
 coriander, cinnamon, cardamom, and other sweet Bread on the Side
spices that make up the blend are valued for their The rich and tender fried breads known as bhature
vibrant flavors, so they’re often added at the end of are a common accompaniment to chana masala. If
cooking and sometimes even sprinkled atop a dish you’d like to make both recipes, first prepare the
right before serving. Adding the spices late means that bhature dough and then prepare the chana masala
fewer volatile compounds are driven off, so their taste through step 2. Next, portion, shape, and fry the
is more prominent. Indeed, holding the garam masala bhature. Finally, finish the chana masala.
until near the end of the simmering time worked bril-
liantly, producing layered flavors. Speaking of layers, BHATURE
instead of serving the dish with a salad, I used the SERVES 4
chiles, onion, and cilantro as a topping so that each TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR RESTING

bite would benefit. Once I’d set out a small bowl of

lime wedges for additional tang, it was time to eat. To get the right dough texture, we recommend
Because this dish comes together quickly, it is weighing the flour and stirring the yogurt well
ideal for busy nights. But if you have the time, before measuring it. Do not substitute Greek
I recommend that you make the most delicious and yogurt here. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts
traditional accompaniment: the puffed fried breads or more for frying. Each bhatura takes less than
known as bhature. See the box at right to learn how. a minute to cook, so make sure that you have
everything in place before you start to fry.
CHANA MASALA
SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES ½ cup plain yogurt TECHNIQUE FRYING BHATURE
¼ cup water
Because the sodium contents of canned chickpeas 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus extra for As the bread begins to puff on one side, gently
and tomatoes vary, we include only a small amount shaping press the unpuffed side into the oil until the bread
of salt in this recipe; season with additional salt at the 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour is evenly inflated, about 20 seconds. Continue to
end of cooking if needed. If you prefer a spicier dish, 1 teaspoon sugar cook until the bottom is light golden brown, about
leave the seeds in the serrano chiles. This dish is often ¾ teaspoon table salt 10 seconds longer, and then flip the bread and cook
paired with bhature, deep-fried breads that puff up ¾ teaspoon baking powder on the second side, lightly pressing each side into the
as they cook; alternatively, serve it with rice or naan. ¼ teaspoon baking soda oil to ensure even browning, about 20 seconds.
2 quarts vegetable oil for frying
1 small red onion, quartered, divided
10 sprigs fresh cilantro, stems and 1. Whisk yogurt, water, and 3 tablespoons oil to press 1 dough ball into 3-inch round. Using
leaves separated in small bowl until smooth. Pulse flour, sugar, salt, rolling pin, gently roll into 6-inch round of even
1 (1½-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped baking powder, and baking soda in food processor thickness, adding extra oil to counter as necessary
coarse until combined, about 2 pulses. With processor to prevent sticking. Roll slowly and gently to
2 garlic cloves, chopped coarse running, add yogurt mixture and process until prevent creasing. Cover with plastic or damp dish
2 serrano chiles, stemmed, halved, seeded, mixture forms smooth ball, about 30 seconds. towel. Repeat with remaining dough balls.
and sliced thin crosswise, divided Using your lightly oiled hands, transfer dough to 3. Carefully place 1 dough round in hot oil.
3 tablespoons vegetable oil lightly oiled counter. Knead until dough is smooth Press gently with back of spider skimmer to keep
1 (14.5-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes and springy, about 5 minutes. Form dough into dough submerged until it begins to puff. As bread
1 teaspoon paprika ball and transfer to lightly greased bowl. Place plas- begins to puff on 1 side, gently press unpuffed
1 teaspoon ground cumin tic wrap or damp dish towel on surface of dough side into oil until bread is evenly inflated, about
½ teaspoon ground turmeric and let rest for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours. 20 seconds. Continue to cook until bottom is
½ teaspoon fennel seeds 2. Add 2 quarts oil to large Dutch oven until light golden brown, about 10 seconds longer. Flip
2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, undrained it measures about 1½ inches deep and heat over bread and cook on second side, lightly pressing
1½ teaspoons garam masala medium-high heat to 390 degrees. Set wire rack both sides into oil to ensure even browning, about
½ teaspoon table salt in rimmed baking sheet and line with double layer 20 seconds. Lift bhatura with spider skimmer and
Lime wedges of paper towels. Divide dough into 8 equal por- let drain briefly over pot before transferring to pre-
tions and shape into tight, round balls. Place balls pared rack. Repeat with remaining dough rounds,
1. Chop three-quarters of onion coarse; reserve seam side down on counter, coat lightly with extra adjusting burner, if necessary, to maintain oil
remaining quarter for garnish. Cut cilantro stems oil, and cover with plastic. Use heel of your hand temperature between 380 and 400 degrees. Serve.
into 1-inch lengths. Process chopped onion, cilantro
stems, ginger, garlic, and half of serranos in food
processor until finely chopped, scraping down sides turmeric, and fennel seeds to onion mixture and cook, thickened, 8 to 12 minutes longer. Season with salt to
PHOTOGRAPHY: KEVIN WHITE

of bowl as necessary, about 20 seconds. Combine stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir taste. Transfer to wide, shallow serving bowl. Sprinkle
onion mixture and oil in large saucepan. Cook over in chickpeas and their liquid and processed tomatoes with chopped onion, remaining serranos, and cilantro
medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until onion and bring to boil. Adjust heat to maintain simmer, leaves and serve, passing lime wedges separately.
is fully softened and beginning to stick to saucepan, then cover and simmer for 15 minutes. While mixture
5 to 7 minutes. cooks, chop reserved onion fine. FOR NUTRITION
2. While onion mixture cooks, process tomatoes 3. Stir garam masala and salt into chickpea mix- INFORMATION AND MORE
and their juice in now-empty food processor until ture and continue to cook, uncovered and stirring Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20
smooth, about 30 seconds. Add paprika, cumin, occasionally, until chickpeas are softened and sauce is

september & october 2020

11
 Chinese Stir-Fried Tomatoes and Eggs
This surprisingly complex comfort food deserves a place at everyone’s table.
j BY JOSEPH GITTER k

A
s a fussy eater growing up in slurry gave the sauce a slick mouthfeel that I didn’t
England, the one thing I’d love, and ketchup made the dish taste overly sweet.
never refuse was creamy scram- The best approach was to season the tomatoes with
bled eggs doused in ketchup. just enough sugar to enhance their flavor and cook
Stir-fried tomatoes and eggs, xihóngshì them down until their juice thickened but the toma-
chao jidàn in Mandarin (faankeh chao dan toes themselves remained meaty and distinct.
in Cantonese), isn’t so terribly far off from Once the tomato juice had reduced, I returned the
this concept, so I wasn’t surprised to learn eggs to the pan, breaking them up with a spatula into
that this dish of pillowy curds enrobed in pieces about the size of the tomato chunks. A hand-
a chunky, savory-sweet tomato sauce is ful of the reserved scallion greens, cut into 1-inch
often the first thing that Chinese children lengths, added bright color and fresh, grassy flavor.
learn how to make. It’s also a dish that I may not have grown up craving this dish, but it
many Chinese American chefs, writers, and tasted so satisfyingly cohesive, savory, and complex
bloggers say they crave most when they that I'll be craving it from now on.
want something soothing, homey, and
satisfying. A typical version goes like this: XIHÓNGSHÌ CHAO JIDÀN
Cook beaten eggs quickly in an oil-slicked (CHINESE STIR-FRIED TOMATOES AND EGGS)
wok until they’re just set. Remove them SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES
from the wok and toss in aromatics such as
ginger and garlic, along with chopped or Serve the stir-fry with steamed white rice.
sliced tomatoes. Cook until the tomatoes
soften and release their juice. Return the 4 scallions, white parts sliced thin, green parts
eggs to the wok, stir everything together, cut into 1-inch lengths
and serve with plenty of steamed rice. 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
It’s hard to find fault in something so 3 garlic cloves, sliced thin
simple and good. But since eggs can over- Sesame oil and Shaoxing wine add nutty savoriness to the eggs. 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
cook in a flash, I wanted to nail down a 8 large eggs
foolproof process. I also wanted to boost the flavor steam before the eggs set. I followed suit, removing 2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
just a bit and make sure that the tomatoes contrib- the eggs as soon as they were plump but still wet. 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
uted saucy body rather than a flood of liquid. Next, I got to work on the tomato base. I grated a 1 teaspoon table salt, divided
Some recipes call for whisking savory Shaoxing nub of ginger and sliced a few garlic cloves and some 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained
wine and nutty sesame oil into the eggs, which scallion whites for savory allium flavor, reserving the with juice reserved, cut into 1-inch pieces
I found not only added complexity but also diluted scallion greens to add later. Though fresh tomatoes 2 teaspoons sugar
the egg proteins, making it more difficult for them to are commonly used, I wanted a dish that would be
bond and form tight curds. Another bonus: The extra reliably good year-round, so I opted for canned toma- 1. Combine scallion whites, 1 tablespoon veg-
moisture from the wine meant more steam to puff toes. I chose whole peeled tomatoes so that I could etable oil, garlic, and ginger in small bowl; set aside.
the eggs. Adding salt to the raw eggs also kept them control their size, cutting them into 1-inch pieces that Whisk eggs, Shaoxing wine, sesame oil, and ½ tea-

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN

from turning tough and seasoned them more evenly. would be large enough not to get lost in the eggs. spoon salt together in separate bowl.
Most recipes call for cooking the eggs over When I added the tomatoes and their juice to the 2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in
medium-high heat. Though it might seem counterin- pan, the mixture was too thin, so I followed the sug- 12-inch nonstick or carbon-steel skillet or 14-inch
tuitive to apply lots of heat to something you want to gestions of a few recipes and tried stirring a cornstarch wok over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add
stay soft and moist, it’s the best way to quickly produce slurry into one batch and ketchup into another. The egg mixture. Using rubber spatula, slowly but con-
stantly scrape along bottom and sides of pan until eggs
just form cohesive mass, 1 to 2 minutes (eggs will not
How Tomato Met Egg in China be completely dry); transfer to clean bowl.
Tomatoes arrived in China around the late 16th century, but it took more 3. Add reserved garlic mixture to now-empty pan
than 300 years for Chinese cooks to view them as edible. In the early and cook over medium heat, mashing mixture into
20th century, foreign enclaves with Western restaurants sprang up in the pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomatoes
newly established Republic of China, creating new demand for the fruit— and their juice, sugar, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt
+ known in the north as “western persimmon” (xihóngshì in Mandarin) and and simmer until almost completely dry, 5 to 7 min-
in the south as “foreign eggplant” (faankeh in Cantonese). Cultivation utes. Stir in egg mixture and scallion greens and cook,
increased, and tomatoes began appearing in Chinese dishes. Around the breaking up any large curds, until heated through,
1940s, the now-iconic pairing of stir-fried tomatoes and eggs was born. about 1 minute. Serve.

cook’s illustrated
12
 Lahmajun
Long before pizza came along, Armenians were baking crisp, savory
meat-and-vegetable-topped flatbreads that some consider the original thin-crust pie.
j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

I
’m Armenian, which means I’ve been
eating lahmajun (“lah-mah-joon”)
my whole life. My aunties would
make it for us when we’d visit, roll-
ing the yeasted dough into paper-thin
rounds, spreading the rounds with a film of
spiced ground lamb, and baking them until
they were crispy and browned. And my
mother often brought home boxes of the
flatbreads from local Armenian bakeries,
keeping them stacked face-to-face between
sheets of parchment paper until it was time
to reheat them. We’d spray the flatbreads
with lemon juice and eat them like pizza
(lahmajun predates—and is sometimes
considered a precursor to—pizza; see “The
Original Pizza?”) or turn them into sand-
wiches by rolling them around a salad of
fresh or pickled vegetables.
My love for the dish had always been
more than just habitual, but it wasn’t until
a few years ago that I ate lahmajun so good
that it upped my standards for the dish as
both an Armenian and a baker. Cooked in
a blazing wood-fired oven, the bread had
a delicate and crispy paper-thin crust, yet
it was still tender within. And the lamb
paste—fragrant with garlic and onion; red
pepper; tomato; parsley; and earthy, warm
spices—tasted rich and vibrant. Part of the
difference was the hearth, which made for
exceptional browning and rusticity. But
the crumb of these flatbreads boasted more
flavor and textural contrast between the
exterior and interior than premade bakery
versions, which tend to be more uniformly
tender. In fact, they were more akin to
great pizza—and when I made that con-
nection, I realized that sorting out a great
recipe was right in my wheelhouse.
Lahmajun is topped with a thin but vibrant layer of ground lamb seasoned with garlic, warm spices, and pepper paste.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW JANJIGIAN

On a Roll
The dough for my Thin-Crust Pizza (January/ and then shape into a ball that I immediately refrig- dough difficult to roll and giving the yeast time to
February 2011) actually seemed like a logical place erate for at least a day. When mixed with water, the digest sugars in the dough and build up maximum
to start, since it shares many of the assets I had in bread flour builds up lots of gluten that generates flavor. The lengthy rest also allows the gluten to relax
mind for lahmajun. (This is the same approach to both interior chew and exterior crunch (the gluten so that the dough is extensible for stretching thin.
pizza dough I’ve been using for years, so forgive me sheets that form on the crust’s exterior shatter when But my pizza formula wasn’t perfect for lahmajun.
if you’ve heard this one before.) It’s a cold-fermented you bite into them). And the combination of the cold For one thing, there was still too much yeast, which
dough that I make in the food processor with bread temperature, minimal yeast, and time ensures that the made the flatbreads puffy, not flat. They also baked
flour, ice water, a fraction of the amount of yeast dough ferments gently and gradually, minimizing the up tough: Lahmajun should be thinner than a typical
you’d normally put into a bread, salt, and a little oil formation of large gas bubbles that would make the thin-crust pizza, and the only way to get the dough

september & october 2020

13
really thin was to roll (instead of stretch) it, which S T E P BY S T E P HOW TO ROLL AND TOP LAHMAJUN
overworked the gluten. Upping the dough’s hydra-
tion (the amount of water in relation to the amount
of flour) might have increased tenderness, but doing
so would also have made it stickier—and, frankly, the
dough was already sticking to the counter, so I was
planning to cut back on the water.
For the next few tests, I adjusted the formula until
the dough was supple but not sticky and baked up
flat. My revised formula contained a mere ⅛ teaspoon
of yeast, a little less water, and—in its best, crispiest 1. Using heel of your hand, press 2. Using rolling pin, gently roll into 3. Dust top with flour. Peel dough
iteration—King Arthur All-Purpose Flour, which con- dough ball into 5-inch disk. 12-inch round. from counter and flip, floured side
tains more gluten-forming protein than most other down, onto floured baking peel.
all-purpose flours but not as much as bread flour.
After cold-fermenting for 16 hours and resting at
room temperature for about 1 hour, the dough was
easy to press into 5-inch disks with the heel of my
hand. But rolling the disks into paper-thin 12-inch
rounds was trickier and still required so much
manipulation with the rolling pin that the dough
became overworked and snapped back by a couple
inches when I transferred it from the counter to the
baking peel. The solution was to skip flouring the 4. Place ½ cup topping in center 5. Using your fingertips, gently 6. Peel back plastic and remove
counter (I merely dusted the dough before rolling of dough. Cover with 12-inch spread filling evenly across dough, (save plastic for use with
to prevent it from sticking to the pin) and use the square sheet of plastic wrap. leaving ⅛-inch border. remaining dough).
dough’s now-subtle tackiness to anchor it to the
counter while I rolled; that way, I didn’t have to
use as much force to produce thin rounds, and they information, see “Biber Salçası”); and concentrated browned, and fragrant in about 5 minutes, so baking
shrank only a little when I transferred them to the so that each bite tastes vibrant despite the topping all four of them didn’t take any longer than baking a
baking peel (see “How to Roll and Top Lahmajun”). being spread so thin. But those are tricky goals when couple of my thin-crust pizzas. I made sure to have
many of the topping’s core components—ground lemon wedges ready and waiting, as well as a minty
Cut and Paste lamb, red bell pepper, onion, and tomato—bring cucumber-tomato salad for rolling up sandwiches.
The lamb topping for lahmajun is more like a meaty along lots of water. Now I can join the ranks of lahmajun makers in
veneer than a sauce. It should be moist but not wet; Some recipes control that water by calling for my family.
heady from garlic, spices (allspice, paprika, cumin, coarsely chopping the vegetables so that they shed
cayenne), and Turkish pepper paste (for more minimal liquid, but I prefer toppings that are finely
ground. Blitzing the lamb, vegetables, and seasonings I N G R E D I E N T S P OT L I G H T
in the food processor guarantees that the topping’s Biber Salçası
The Original Pizza? texture and flavor will be uniform and replaces most of A thick, cardinal-red paste made from either
I teach a lot of baking classes, and any time the knife work with the push of a button. And I found sweet or a combination of sweet and hot pep-
flatbreads are on the agenda, I like to share that the trick to keeping the liquid at bay was as simple pers, biber salçası is a Turkish-made product
the perspective of chef, author, and Armenian as going easy on the watery onion, bell pepper, and that’s widely used throughout the Levant.
and Middle Eastern cooking authority Arto der tomatoes. In fact, I skipped fresh and canned toma- Produced by roasting, pureeing, and cooking
Haroutunian about the relationship between toes in favor of highly concentrated tomato paste. down or sun-drying the peppers, the paste adds
lahmajun and pizza—specifically the tendency The real challenge was applying the mixture to the concentrated savory sweetness and depth (and
for lahmajun to be referred to as “Armenian dough, since it’s too thick to spread with a spoon or zippy heat, in the case of the spicy version)
pizza.” He suggests that Middle Eastern spatula. Lahmajun pros use their hands—arguably to classic Levantine dishes such as lahmajun,
meat-and-vegetable-topped flatbreads actually the most effective tools for the job—but I came up muhammara, kofte, and red lentil soup, but it can
predate Italian versions, so pizza would actually with a mess-free method: After placing one portion also be used to add those qualities to any dishes
be better thought of as “Italian lahmajun.” of the topping in the center of a dough round, I cov- where you might otherwise add tomato paste or
This idea has some backing. Scholars agree ered it with a sheet of plastic wrap. The thin barrier chiles: soups, stews, and
that flatbreads have been made in the Middle East afforded me the dexterity of using my hands but pasta and pizza sauces.
for more than 14,000 years, and versions topped helped me avoid the mess of touching the topping Storage note: Once ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE
with meat began appearing in that region around directly. Bonus: I reused the plastic wrap for topping opened, biber salçası
200 BCE. Flatbreads have also been made in Italy all four dough rounds. doesn’t keep as well as
for at least 2,000 years, but pizza as we know it To mimic the wood-fired oven’s blazing heat, tomato paste, but it does
today (bread, cheese, tomatoes) didn’t evolve until I set my baking stone on the oven’s top rack and freeze nicely. If you have
the 18th century. ran the oven at 500 degrees for an hour: That way, a large jar, divide any
In any case, the notion that pizza and I might there would be intense heat both underneath the leftovers among several
share the same ancestral homeland goes a long flatbreads and reflecting onto them from above, smaller containers and
way to explaining my lifelong passion for it. with just enough headspace to usher them into freeze them for later use.
and out of the oven. Each round baked up crispy,

cook’s illustrated
14
 LAHMAJUN (ARMENIAN FLATBREAD)
SERVES 4 TO 6 1 minute (texture will remain slightly
TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR, PLUS 17 HOURS RESTING rough). Divide dough into 4 equal
pieces, about 6⅔ ounces each. Shape
You’ll need a baking peel for this recipe; if you don’t dough pieces into tight balls and
have one, use an overturned rimmed baking sheet transfer, seam side down, to rimmed
instead. King Arthur All-Purpose Flour gives these baking sheet coated with oil spray.
flatbreads the perfect balance of crispness and ten- Spray tops of balls lightly with oil
derness, but if it’s unavailable, substitute any major spray. Cover tightly with plastic wrap
brand of all-purpose flour. We strongly recommend and refrigerate for at least 16 hours or
weighing the flour and the water. Jarred biber salçası up to 2 days.
(Turkish red pepper paste) can be found in Middle 3. FOR THE TOPPING: In
Eastern grocery stores or online. Be sure to use the now-empty processor, process bell pep-
mild variety; if it’s unavailable, increase the tomato per, onion, parsley, biber salçası, tomato
paste in the topping to 2 tablespoons and increase paste, garlic, allspice, paprika, cumin,
the paprika to 4 teaspoons. Eighty-five percent salt, pepper, and cayenne until smooth,
lean ground beef can be substituted for the lamb, if scraping down sides of bowl as needed,
desired. Eat the lahmajun out of hand, either whole, about 15 seconds. Add lamb and pulse
cut into halves or quarters, folded in half, or rolled to combine, 8 to 10 pulses. Transfer to
into a cylinder. If desired, omit the lemon wedges and container, cover, and refrigerate until
serve with Cucumber-Tomato Salad (recipe follows). needed (topping can be refrigerated for
If serving with the salad, use a slotted spoon to dis- up to 24 hours).
tribute 1 cup of salad evenly along the center third of 4. One hour before baking lahmajun,
each lahmajun. Fold the outer thirds of the lahmajun remove dough from refrigerator and
over the filling, one side at a time. Turn the rolled let stand at room temperature until
lahmajun seam side down and cut in half crosswise. slightly puffy and no longer cool to
touch. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to
Dough upper-middle position (rack should be
3¼ cups (16¼ ounces) King Arthur 4 to 5 inches from broiler element), set
All-Purpose Flour baking stone on rack, and heat oven to
⅛ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast 500 degrees.
1¼ cups (10 ounces) ice water 5. Place 1 dough ball on unfloured
1 tablespoon vegetable oil counter and dust top lightly with flour.
1½ teaspoons table salt Using heel of your hand, press dough
Vegetable oil spray ball into 5-inch disk. Using rolling pin,
gently roll into 12-inch round of even Lahmajun can be eaten by the slice like pizza or turned into a
Topping thickness. (Use tackiness of dough on sandwich by folding it around a bright salad.
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, counter to aid with rolling; if dough
and cut into 1-inch pieces becomes misshapen, periodically peel round from
CUCUMBER-TOMATO SALAD
¼ small onion counter, reposition, and continue to roll.) Dust top SERVES 4 TO 6
¼ cup fresh parsley leaves and tender stems of round lightly but evenly with flour and, starting TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS 15 MINUTES RESTING
2 tablespoons mild biber salçası at 1 edge, peel dough off counter and flip, floured
1 tablespoon tomato paste side down, onto floured baking peel (dough will Use the ripest in-season tomatoes you can find. This
1 garlic clove, peeled spring back to about 11 inches in diameter). Place salad is best eaten within 1 hour of being dressed. Be
1 teaspoon ground allspice one-quarter of topping (about ½ cup) in center sure to drain excess liquid before placing the salad on
1 teaspoon paprika of dough. Cover dough with 12 by 12-inch sheet the lahmajun.
½ teaspoon ground cumin of plastic and, using your fingertips and knuckles,
½ teaspoon table salt gently spread filling evenly across dough, leaving 1 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise
⅛ teaspoon pepper ⅛-inch border. Starting at 1 edge, peel away plastic, and cut into ¼-inch pieces
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper leaving topping in place (reserve plastic for topping 2 tomatoes, cored and cut into
6 ounces ground lamb, broken into small pieces remaining lahmajun). ¼-inch pieces
6. Carefully slide lahmajun onto stone and bake ¾ teaspoon table salt
Lemon wedges until bottom crust is browned, edges are lightly ½ cup pitted green olives, chopped coarse
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW JANJIGIAN

browned, and topping is steaming, 4 to 6 minutes. ¼ cup fresh mint leaves, shredded
1. FOR THE DOUGH: Process flour and yeast While lahmajun bakes, begin rolling next dough ball. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
in food processor until combined, about 2 seconds. 7. Transfer baked lahmajun to wire rack. Repeat 2 tablespoons lemon juice
With processor running, slowly add ice water; rolling, topping, and baking remaining 3 dough balls. ½ teaspoon pepper
process until dough is just combined and no dry 8. Serve with lemon wedges.
flour remains, about 10 seconds. Let dough rest for Toss cucumber, tomatoes, and salt together in
10 minutes. FOR NUTRITION colander set over bowl. Let drain for 15 minutes, then
2. Add oil and salt and process until dough forms INFORMATION AND MORE discard liquid. Transfer cucumber-tomato mixture to
shaggy ball, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer dough to Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20 medium bowl. Add olives, mint, oil, lemon juice, and
lightly oiled counter and knead until uniform, about pepper and toss to combine.

september & october 2020

15
The Salty, Sweet, Smoky T H E M E AT

Science of Bacon
We dig into the mystique behind America’s
favorite cured meat; plus, we offer tips for
decoding package labels, splatter-free cooking,
and even making your own. BY ELIZABETH BOMZE PORK BELLY, which is cut from the pig’s under-
side, features alternating layers of meat and fat.
Most bacon today features a roughly 60:40 ratio
When cooks first cured pork bellies thousands of years ago, their purpose was preservation: The salt deprived
of fat to meat.
harmful microbes of water, effectively killing them so that the uncooked meat could be kept for months without
spoiling. Later, sugar, smoke, and the curing salt called sodium nitrite were added to the preservation process. But
once refrigeration arrived, bacon became purely indulgent.
There’s serious science behind its primal appeal. As it cures and cooks, the pork undergoes a storm of chemical
Why Bacon Smells So Good
Much of what we find enticing about bacon is tied
reactions, which results in its unmistakable aroma and flavor. We’ll explain all that and leave you with a recipe for
to its scent, and roughly 150 aromatic compounds
home-cured bacon—a project that’s easier than you think and that all bacon aficionados should try at least once.
have been detected in the aroma of fried bacon.
Chief among them are meaty-smelling pyridines
TH E C UR E and pyrazines, created when the pork is cured
and then volatilized as it sizzles. Together with the
Manufacturers use one or both of the following methods to cure the pork before it’s smoked. other compounds, they give off the characteristic
smell of bacon.
DRY CURE (also called WET CURE (faster and cheaper;
“dry rub”; slower, pricier, and the most common commercial
used mostly by artisanal pro- method): The pork is submerged
ducers): The pork is rubbed in or injected with a brine; injection T H E SMO KE
with a mixture of salt, sodium mimics the dry-cured effect in a mat-
Smoke flavor can be applied using wood (logs,
nitrite, and a handful of sea- ter of hours. Note that wet cures
chips, or sawdust), liquid smoke, or a combina-
sonings and left to sit for at leave more water in the bacon,
tion of both methods.
least a week, during which which you pay for in the price per
time a variety of savory flavor pound and which causes the bacon
compounds start to develop. to splatter more during cooking. Dry Smoke: The pork is cooked
whole in a low-temperature
convection oven with smoldering
wood logs, chips, or sawdust.
Because the smoke deposits on
the exterior of the pork, thick-cut
bacon, with its greater surface area
per slice, has more smoke flavor
than thin-cut bacon. Dry-smoked
bacon can also be labeled “naturally
SALT deprives bacteria and CURING SALT, which contains SUGAR (often a flavorful kind
smoked” or “hardwood smoked.”
mold of water while also restruc- sodium nitrite and sometimes such as brown or maple) balances
turing the muscle fibers so that the sodium nitrate, slows rancidity and the flavor of the salt and helps
bacon is pleasantly dense, tender, bacteria growth and gives bacon draw out water. Liquid Smoke: If the phrase “smoke
and concentrated in flavor. its pink blush and “cured” flavor. flavor” appears on the packaging,
that’s a sign that liquid smoke
has been injected along with the
THE FINE PRINT ABOUT “UNCURED” BACON ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE
cure—and that’s not necessarily a
Bacon that is labeled “uncured,” “nitrite-free,” or “nitrate-free” might sound like it avoids the risks associated
bad thing. Liquid smoke is simply
with curing salts, but those terms are misleading. When we tested cured and “uncured” bacon for nitrite
condensed wood smoke that’s been
content, we found that the “uncured” bacon contained at least as much nitrite as the cured stuff. The
filtered to remove tar and resins, and
confusion rests in the labeling laws of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA): Producers of “uncured”
when used in proper proportions,
bacon are not using any additives that the USDA recognizes as curing agents, but they are using natural
it can actually produce decent
ingredients such as celery juice or celery juice powder that are packed with nitrites and that also have the
smoke flavor.
potential to turn into carcinogenic compounds when the bacon is fried. Legally, that means manufacturers
must label the product as uncured, but the chemical process of curing is the same, as are the potential risks.

cook’s illustrated
16
Bring Home the Best Bacon HOME-CURED BACON
MAKES ABOUT 3½ POUNDS
REGULAR TOTAL TIME: 4 HOURS, PLUS 7 DAYS CURING
OSCAR MAYER Naturally
Hardwood Smoked Bacon It takes at least one week for the bacon to cure.
PRICE: $6.99 per lb You will need a smoker for this recipe. Do not
COMMENTS: “Classic” bacon that “hits all use iodized salt—we developed this recipe using
the right notes” and boasts “a good bal- Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt. If you use Morton
ance of chew and crispness”
Kosher Salt, which has denser crystals, use
THICK-CUT ⅓ cup for this recipe. Pink curing salt #1, which
SUGARDALE Thick Sliced Bacon can be purchased online or in stores specializing
PRICE: $4.39 per lb in meat curing, is a mixture of table salt and
COMMENTS: “Very meaty” and mildly smoky
sodium nitrite; it is also called Prague Powder #1,
with a “distinct maple” taste Insta Cure #1, or DQ Curing Salt #1. (Do not
substitute Morton’s Tender Quick or Insta Cure
ARTISANAL #2.) Maple sugar, which is made from maple
VANDE ROSE Applewood Smoked syrup, is available in many grocery stores and
Artisan Dry Cured Bacon online from King Arthur Flour and various New
PRICE: $29.07 per lb, including shipping England maple farms. You can substitute brown
COMMENTS: “Perfectly balanced salt, sugar, sugar for the maple sugar.
and smoke”
1 cup maple sugar
TURKEY ½ cup kosher salt
WELLSHIRE All Natural Uncured 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, cracked
Turkey Bacon 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
PRICE: $6.99 per 12 oz ¾ teaspoon pink curing salt #1
COMMENTS: More like Canadian bacon 1 bay leaf, crumbled
than the conventional pork kind, with some
1 (4-pound) pork belly, skin removed
of the big smoky, salty, sweet flavors we
associate with good bacon 4 medium hickory wood chunks

1. Combine sugar, kosher salt, peppercorns,

Our Favorite Ways to Cook Bacon thyme, pink salt, and bay leaf in small bowl.
Place pork in 13 by 9-inch baking dish and rub
OVEN pork all over with sugar mixture. Cover dish
This method allows you tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until
to cook up to 12 slices pork feels firm yet still pliable, 7 to 10 days, flip-
of bacon at a time and ping pork every other day.
avoids stovetop splatter. 2. Soak wood chunks in water for 1 hour,
Place bacon on rimmed then drain. Thoroughly rinse pork with cold
baking sheet and bake at water and pat dry with paper towels.
400 degrees for about 3. Open bottom vent of smoker completely.
15 minutes, rotating sheet Arrange 1½ quarts unlit charcoal briquettes
halfway through baking. in center of smoker in even layer. Light large
chimney starter three-quarters filled with char-
STOVETOP coal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals
The key is to cook the are partially covered with ash, pour evenly
bacon with a little water over unlit coals. Place wood chunks on coals.
in the pan (3 tablespoons Assemble smoker and fill water pan with water
for a 12-inch skillet), which according to manufacturer’s instructions. Cover
keeps the temperature low smoker and open lid vent completely. Heat
enough that the fat renders smoker until hot and wood chunks are smok-
thoroughly and the whole ing, about 5 minutes.
strip cooks evenly. Once 4. Clean and oil smoking grate. Place pork
water comes to boil, reduce meat side down in center of smoker. Cover
heat to medium. When all (positioning lid vent over pork) and smoke until
water has evaporated, reduce heat to pork registers 150 degrees, 1½ to 2 hours.
medium-low and continue to cook until bacon is 5. Remove bacon from smoker and let cool
crispy and well browned. completely before slicing. Unsliced bacon can
be wrapped tightly with plastic and refrigerated
Find our free recipe for Bacon Jam at CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20 for up to 1 month or frozen for up to 2 months.

september & october 2020

17
 Real Greek Salad
Imagine all your favorite bites of Greek salad—sweet tomatoes;
briny olives; crunchy cucumbers; and rich, tangy feta—without
the lettuce filler, and you’ve got horiatiki salata.
j BY STEVE DUNN k

G
reek salad is an old-fashioned immi- Following Greek tradition, we coat the vegetables separately with red wine vinegar and olive oil—rather than
grant story—an imported original with an emulsified vinaigrette—to allow the flavor of each ingredient to remain distinct.
nudged into an alternate version of
itself so that it fell more in line with American consumers, restaurateurs turned it into a comes into bright, sharp, saline focus—and I took it
mainstream American expectations. recognizable salad by diluting the vegetables with as an excuse to hone my own version. I looked for
The traditional Greek version, known as horiatiki lettuce (iceberg or romaine), crumbling the feta, and ripe tomatoes and good-quality olives, feta, and olive
salata, is a colorful, chunky mix of raw tomatoes, tossing the whole affair in a thick vinaigrette. That oil, since that’s best practice for any ingredient-driven
cucumbers, green bell peppers, and onions; briny Greek American adaptation balanced familiarity and dish. But it would be just as important to figure out
kalamata olives and (sometimes) capers; and thick intrigue, eventually earning such a following that it the best way to prepare each item so that it was the
slabs of rich, sheepy feta. These components are became a standard not just at diners and pizzerias best version of itself and the jumble of flavors and
drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and maybe lemon but also at chain restaurants, pubs, delis, and even textures would hang together in perfect balance.
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE

juice or vinegar and sprinkled with dried oregano. A convenience stores nationwide. Here’s a component-by-component deep dive into
staple accompaniment at Greek meals, this simple, The popularity of Greek salad rages on, but in my testing notes.
hearty dish (also called “village salad”) made its recent years American interest in more traditional
way to the United States during the 19th- and Greek fare has started to catch up. That’s good FOR NUTRITION
20th-century waves of Hellenic migration and landed news for horiatiki fans such as myself, who’ve always INFORMATION AND MORE
on the menus of many Greek-run diners and pizze- preferred the original version of the dish—without Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20
rias. When the dish didn’t gain much traction with the lettuce filler and vinaigrette bath, every element

cook’s illustrated
18
 Give the Onion a Soak
There’s nothing like raw onion to add sharp,
savory bite and crunch to a salad, as long as it’s
used in moderation. Even just half an onion’s
worth of thin slices tasted harsh, so I tried soaking   
the slices in three different liquids to temper their
bite. In each case, the soak drew out the onion’s BAKING SODA SOLUTION VINEGAR AND SALT ICE WATER
Left a chemical aftertaste, even after Essentially quick-pickled the onion, Mellowed the onion’s harsh bite
harsh-tasting sulfur compounds (thiosulfinates), we rinsed the onion three times wilting the slices so that they lacked without dulling its crunch
but only ice water did so without introducing new, crunch and infusing them with
distracting flavors. distracting sourness

HORIATIKI SALATA
(HEARTY GREEK SALAD)
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH OR 6 TO 8 AS A SIDE DISH
TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS 30 MINUTES SALTING

Soaking the sliced onion in ice water tempers its

heat and bite. Use only large, round tomatoes
here, not Roma or cherry varieties, and use the
ripest in-season tomatoes you can find. A fresh,
fruity, peppery olive oil works well here if you
have it. We prefer to use feta by Real Greek
Go for Greek Feta Feta or Dodoni in this recipe. The salad can
It’s not just folklore that Greeks make great be served with crusty bread as a light meal for
feta. Of the eight different fetas we tasted from four. Our recipe for Horiatiki Salata (Hearty
Greece, France, and the United States, the Greek Greek Salad) for Two is available for free for
Salt and Drain the Tomatoes ones boasted almost universally superior flavor four months at CooksIllustrated.com/oct20.
Ripe, sweet tomatoes are a must for horiatiki, but and texture—and for several good reasons, which
they’re also loaded with juice that flooded the salad stem from Greek government regulations that 1¾ pounds tomatoes, cored
when I added them directly to the mix. So my first control the feta-making process. 1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided
step was to toss the tomatoes (halved wedges, for First, the milk itself is rich and complex: At ½ red onion, sliced thin
chunky but manageable bites) with salt and set least 70 percent of it must be sheep’s milk, which 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
them in a colander to drain for 30 minutes. The salt contains twice as much fat as cow’s milk; any 1 teaspoon dried oregano, plus extra
pulled out a whopping ½ cup of juice, preventing remainder must be goat’s milk. Because Greek for seasoning
all that liquid from saturating the other vegetables; sheep and goats eat uniquely diverse diets, their ½ teaspoon pepper
plus, it seasoned the tomatoes more deeply and milks contain fatty acids that impart distinctively 1 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise
evenly than I could have by simply seasoning the gamy, savory flavors to the feta. Second, Greek feta and cut into ¾-inch chunks
salad before serving. is produced via a slower, more methodical process 1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded,
that encourages the development of exceptionally and cut into 2 by ½-inch strips
complex flavors. Our favorite fetas, made by Real 1 cup pitted kalamata olives
Greek Feta and Dodoni, work equally well in our 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
salad. Avoid crumbled fetas, which are produced 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
from cow’s milk and lack the complexity and rich, 1 (8-ounce) block feta cheese, sliced into
dense texture of the real deal. ½-inch-thick triangles

1. Cut tomatoes into ½-inch-thick wedges.

  Give Green Bell Peppers a Chance! Cut wedges in half crosswise. Toss tomatoes
Choose Dried, Not Fresh, Oregano Even if you don’t care for the and ½ teaspoon salt together in colander set
Greeks cook extensively with oregano, particularly grassy, vegetal, faintly bit- in large bowl. Let drain for 30 minutes. Place
the dried leaves, which they use in cooked appli- ter flavor of green bell onion in small bowl, cover with ice water,
cations and as a finishing touch for meat, fish, pepper, consider using and let sit for 15 minutes. Whisk vinegar,
vegetables, legumes, and salads such as horiatiki. one here. Those quali- oregano, pepper, and remaining ¾ teaspoon
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

The woodsy, floral profile of dried oregano leaves ties (which are due to salt together in second small bowl.
is subtler and more complex than that of fresh flavor compounds in 2. Discard tomato juice and transfer toma-
leaves, but it’s still fragrant because oregano is unripe peppers called toes to now-empty bowl. Drain onion and add
a hardy herb that retains much of its flavor and methoxypyrazines) to bowl with tomatoes. Add vinegar mixture,
aroma when dried. We found that subtlety ideal uniquely balance the cucumber, bell pepper, olives, and capers and
for horiatiki when we tasted the salad sprinkled horiatiki, complement- toss to combine. Drizzle with ¼ cup oil and
with both fresh and dried oregano, noting that the ing the fresh, sweet, toss gently to coat. Season with salt and pep-
dried herb’s more delicate flavor complemented— briny, and rich flavors of per to taste. Transfer to serving platter and top
but didn’t upstage—the vegetables. the other components. with feta. Season each slice of feta with extra
oregano to taste. Drizzle feta with remaining
1 tablespoon oil. Serve.
september & october 2020
19
 Coconut Rice Two Ways
Every region that grows coconuts and rice marries them to make the grains
rich and fragrant. Here are two of our favorite—and very different—versions.
j BY ANDREA GEARY k

T
he expression “What grows together to treat the rice as I would in any other application,
goes together” is a cliché, but it’s true: rinsing it well to rid it of excess starch that would
In temperate climates, strawberries go otherwise make the grains gummy and letting it
with rhubarb; where it’s cold, preserved stand for 10 minutes after cooking, which allowed
fish and rye bread are a dynamic duo; and near the the moisture to distribute evenly throughout. Unlike
equator, coconut gets cooked with rice. plain rice, a gentle stir was necessary before serving
But coconut rice varies from one tropical cuisine this version to blend in any coconut oil that had
to another. The coconut component might be fresh risen to the top.
or dried, or it might be canned milk or cream. Some Hung kao mun gati pairs as beautifully with tra-
versions are served plain or perhaps with a squeeze ditional entrées such as stir-fries, curries, and satay
of lime; others are embellished with spices, alliums, as it does with everything from steamed vegetables
chiles, tomatoes, meat, fish, or beans. But get this: to lean fish to rich grilled pork.
Even the simple versions made with few ingredients Now spin the globe; we’re going to the Caribbean.
can have surprisingly different flavors and textures.
After cooking a handful of recipes from around the HUNG KAO MUN GATI
globe, I homed in on two styles that I loved for their (THAI COCONUT RICE)
ability to pair well with a range of dishes—and for SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES
the fact that, despite having nearly identical ingre-
dients (rice, canned coconut milk, sugar, and salt), Our favorite coconut milk is from Aroy-D; do not
they were as different as could be. use low-fat coconut milk in this recipe. Many brands
of coconut milk separate during storage; be sure to
A Thai Take stir yours until it’s smooth before measuring it. We
The first was coconut rice from Thailand: hung kao like the delicately clingy texture of jasmine rice here,
mun gati. This simple, elegant dish always seems but regular long-grain white rice can be substituted.
to take my meal up a notch when I order it in res- Avoid basmati; the grains will remain too separate.
taurants. It turns out that it may have an illustrious The rice can be cooked in a rice cooker instead of
provenance: Sources suggest that it can be traced to on the stovetop. Chopped toasted peanuts, toasted
the Persians in the court of King Narai of Thailand sesame seeds, fried shallots, and pickled chiles are
(1632–1688), who enjoyed rice dishes prepared with great toppings for this rice. Serve with stir-fries or
liquids other than water, including coconut milk. grilled meat or fish.
Happily, this Thai classic is just as easy to make
as plain white rice: All you do is simmer jasmine 1½ cups jasmine rice
rice in a mixture of coconut milk, water, sugar, and 1 cup canned coconut milk
salt until the liquid is absorbed. The simple simmer 1 tablespoon sugar
leaves the grains rich-tasting and subtly sweet, with ¾ teaspoon table salt
a tender, slightly clingy texture. Serve the rice as
is or top with garnishes such as fried shallots and 1. Place rice in fine-mesh strainer set over bowl.
chopped peanuts. Rinse under running water, swishing with your hands,
One of the few variables I saw among recipes for until water runs clear. Drain thoroughly. Stir rice,
the Thai version was the ratio of coconut milk to 1½ cups water, coconut milk, sugar, and salt together
water used to cook the rice. While many incorpo- in large saucepan. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce
rated a full 14-ounce can (plus water) for 1½ cups heat to maintain bare simmer. Cover and cook until
of rice, I found the rice too oily and perfumed. all liquid is absorbed, 18 to 20 minutes.
After some trial and error, I found my sweet spot: 2. Remove saucepan from heat and let sit, covered,
1½ cups of rice cooked in 1 cup of coconut milk and for 10 minutes. Mix rice gently but thoroughly with
1½ cups of water. I also found that it was necessary rubber spatula, transfer to bowl or platter, and serve.

Hung kao mun gati (left) is lovely on its own, but

FOR NUTRITION depending on what you’re serving it with, try embellish-
INFORMATION AND MORE ing it with fried shallots, pickled chiles, toasted sesame
Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20 seeds, and/or chopped peanuts. A squeeze of lime is
all arroz con titoté (right) needs to sharpen its flavors.

cook’s illustrated PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW JANJIGIAN

20
Colombian-Style Here’s how it works: Pour a whole can of coconut COAXING NUTTY FLAVOR
Arroz con titoté, a tan-colored, brown-flecked milk into a saucepan and boil it until all the water is FROM COCONUT MILK
coconut rice that is popular in beachside restau- gone, leaving only coconut oil and tiny particles of Coconut usually calls to mind an intensely fruity
rants along the Caribbean coast of Colombia, is coconut solids. Then keep cooking until those coco- aroma and a creamy vanilla-like flavor. These
a knockout dish whose taste stunned me the first nut solids darken to a rich, toasty brown. Add the rice distinctive characteristics come from volatile
time I cooked it. Made with virtually the same and coat it well with the fat before stirring in water, compounds in the fruit called lactones; lactones
ingredients as its Thai cousin, it featured a toasty brown sugar, salt, and raisins. also contribute flavor to pineapples and peaches.
aroma and rich nutty flavor that I barely recognized When I first made this dish, which is often Simmering coconut milk, as we do for Thai coco-
as coconut—a result of the unique treatment of the served with whole grilled or fried fish and patacones nut rice as well as for many soups and braises,
coconut milk. (double-fried smashed plantains), I expected it to be causes some of the lactones to dissipate, but
heavy and sweet, but it was neither. Coating the rice enough remain to make these dishes recognizably
grains with fat before adding the liquid was a classic coconutty. But you can bring a whole other dimen-
pilaf strategy that ensured that the grains cooked sion to coconut milk by changing the way you cook
up separate and not gluey (here again, rinsing the it. For Colombian arroz con titoté, you simmer
rice was also critical). And the browned coconut, the coconut milk until its water evaporates, the oil
which along with the rendered fat is known as titoté, separates out, and the coconut solids brown in the
imparted very little coconut heft and creaminess and oil. This process drives off the lactones and cre-
more of a rich toasty depth instead (see “Coaxing ates new compounds, transforming the milk’s fresh
Nutty Flavor from Coconut Milk”). The raisins coconut flavor into something that tastes richer,
heightened the dish’s slight sweetness without nuttier, and more buttery. In fact, some of these
making it seem at all dessert-y. A spritz of lime, the new compounds (pyrazines, pyrroles, and furans)
traditional garnish, snapped all the flavors into focus. belong to the same families of flavor compounds
This is not to say my arroz con titoté was com- that give true nuts such as pecans or almonds their
pletely without problems. Some brands of coconut characteristic flavors.
milk had a tendency to splatter dramatically during the After
12 minutes
reducing step, which was messy and hazardous until BE PATIENT AND
I thought to partially cover the saucepan. And some KEEP COOKING
cans of the stuff simply refused to separate into fat and Getting the water
solids due to the presence of emulsifiers, so I had to be in the coconut
careful to buy one that listed only coconut and water milk to evaporate
on the label. I also had to learn to be patient while the and the solids to
milk reduced and to trust that the oil would eventually brown can take
separate out. Then I had to allow the coconut solids 20 minutes or
to get good and dark before I added the rice to ensure longer. But don’t
that the dish had just the right nutty flavor. worry—it will get
With those issues sorted, I had another—quite there eventually. After
different—coconut rice in my repertoire that also 20 minutes
amply demonstrated how brilliantly these two ingre-
dients work together. 1. Pour coconut milk into large saucepan. Cover,
leaving lid slightly ajar so steam can escape. Cook
ARROZ CON TITOTÉ over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until
(COLOMBIAN COCONUT RICE) coconut milk is reduced by about three-quarters and
SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR begins to sputter, 10 to 12 minutes. While coconut
milk cooks, place rice in fine-mesh strainer set over
Our favorite coconut milk is from Aroy-D; do not bowl. Rinse under running water, swishing with your
use a product with additives or the milk won’t cook hands, until water runs clear. Drain thoroughly.
properly. Do not use low-fat coconut milk here. 2. Reduce heat to medium. Uncover saucepan
The coconut solids may bond to the surface of your and cook, stirring frequently, until fat separates from
saucepan in step 2, but they will release as the rice coconut solids, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook,
cooks. Browning the coconut milk adds nutty depth, stirring frequently, until coconut solids turn deep
so the small amount of sugar and raisins does not brown (solids will stick to saucepan), about 3 minutes
make the dish taste particularly sweet. Serve with longer. Add rice and cook, stirring constantly, until
grilled or broiled fish or meat. Don’t omit the lime grains are well coated with fat. Stir in ½ cup water
wedges; they bring all the flavors into focus. (mixture may sputter) and scrape bottom and sides
of saucepan with wooden spoon to loosen coconut
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk solids. Stir in raisins, sugar, salt, and remaining
1½ cups long-grain white rice 1¾ cups water. Bring mixture to boil. Adjust heat to
2¼ cups water, divided maintain low simmer. Cover and cook until all liquid
⅓ cup raisins is absorbed, 18 to 20 minutes.
2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar 3. Remove saucepan from heat and let sit, cov-
1 teaspoon table salt ered, for 10 minutes. Mix rice gently but thoroughly
Lime wedges and transfer to serving bowl. Serve with lime wedges.

september & october 2020

21
Getting Started with Sourdough Starter
Making starter is simple, but nurturing the flour-water mixture into a mature culture
can be confusing. I’ve mapped out the process and answered common questions.
j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

A
sourdough starter—also called a cul-
ture or levain—is a mixture of flour, INGREDIENTS AND EQUIPMENT
water, and microorganisms that fla- For the best results, weigh your ingredients and use organic flour (which is richer in microorganisms than conven-
vors and leavens bread. Wild yeasts tional flour) and bottled or filtered water (which is free of the chlorine in tap water that can kill those essential
and bacteria are naturally present on wheat microorganisms) to create the starter. Be sure to include both white and either whole-wheat or rye flour in the
kernels and on flour ground from them, but it bulk flour mixture; whole-grain flours are more nutritious than white flour and are more likely to contain the bac-
takes time and proper care for them to multiply teria and yeast we want, making them ideal nourishment for the nascent culture. (Once the starter is mature, you
and transform the initial mixture into a bubbly, maintain it with just white flour; nonorganic is fine.) Placing the starter in a clear jar will allow for easy observation
boozy-scented leavener. of activity beneath the surface.
First, you mix flour and water and let the mixture
sit for a day or longer until the dormant micro-
organisms on the flour wake up. After that, you
“refresh” (or “feed”) the nascent culture on a daily
or twice-daily basis by moving a portion of it to a
new mixture of flour and water and discarding the
remainder. (Don’t worry about waste—you can save
the leftover portion as backup and for use in other
applications.) After a few weeks, the starter will have Organic bread Organic Warm room-temperature 2 small lidded 1 larger lidded
built up a sufficient amount of the appropriate yeasts or King Arthur whole-wheat (70- to 80-degree) bottled containers, such as container, such as a
and bacteria it needs, and it can be used in baking. all-purpose flour or rye flour or filtered water 4-ounce canning jars 16-ounce canning jar

HOW TO STEP
CREATE AND PROOF INITIAL STARTER
STEP
REFRESH ONCE DAILY

MAKE 1 2
SOURDOUGH 1 to 3
days
4 to 10
days
STARTER (timing may
vary widely)
The key difference between my starter and most
others is scale. Typical formulas start with several
cups of flour, and you might churn through a few
pounds before you can bake a single loaf of bread;
my starter takes just a few teaspoons to get going
and uses just a few cups total before it’s ready to
bake with. (Making a tiny starter is an idea that
I came up with last spring, when flour and yeast Create bulk batch of flour mixture by combining Stir starter well and transfer 2 teaspoons (⅓ ounce;
were scarce due to the pandemic—I affectionately 1½ cups bread or all-purpose flour with 1½ cups 10 grams) to clean jar; reserve remaining starter as
dubbed it “quarantinystarter." But I quickly realized whole-wheat or rye flour in sealable container (weigh- backup in original jar and store in refrigerator (see
that this is a smarter, substantially less wasteful ing ingredients will become vital later, but volume is “Save the Leftovers!”). Stir 4 teaspoons (⅓ ounce;
approach to maintaining sourdough starter under fine here). Using spoon, mix 4 teaspoons (⅓ ounce; 10 grams) flour mixture and 2½ teaspoons (⅓ ounce;
any circumstances.) Once the starter is ready for 10 grams) flour mixture and 2½ teaspoons (⅓ ounce; 10 grams) water into starter mixture until no dry flour
use, it can easily be scaled up to the necessary 10 grams) water in small jar. Cover with plastic wrap remains. Cover with plastic wrap or loosely with lid
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN

proportions. Note that the time frame of each or loosely with lid and let sit at warm room tempera- and let sit at warm room temperature for 24 hours.
step is approximate: How quickly your starter ture (70 to 80 degrees). Repeat every 24 hours.
moves from one step to the next will depend on
the flour you’re using to refresh it and how hos-
pitable the environment is for yeast and bacteria VISUAL CUE TO MOVE TO NEXT STEP VISUAL CUE TO MOVE TO NEXT STEP
activity. Let visual cues be your guide and use the Starter is bubbly, wet-looking (there might be liquid Starter is bubbly and fragrant less than 12 hours after
day count as a reference. pooled on top), and fragrant—even pungent. the previous refreshment.

cook’s illustrated
22
 STARTER FAQs SAVE THE LEFTOVERS!
You’ve sent me dozens of great questions since I began the #QuarantinyStarter
project last spring. Here, I respond to the most common ones. The daily or twice-daily process of refreshing sourdough starter gener-
ates a leftover portion that you should save as backup in case something
My house typically runs cold. Where’s the best place to keep happens to the current batch. Eventually, you can also collect
my starter? generations of backup starter and put them to work in other,
If your kitchen is below 70 degrees, try storing your starter in one of the nonbread applications.
following places (but make sure that these areas—or anywhere that you might
store your starter—aren’t more than a degree or so above 80 degrees, which Backup: The first time you
can encourage the growth of unwanted molds). refresh your nascent starter, keep
the remainder as backup in the
• On top of the refrigerator original jar in the fridge. When
• In a turned-off oven with the light you refresh your starter again the next day, throw away the backup (when
turned on you're refreshing the starter just once daily, as in Step 2, the backup is not
• On a wire rack set over a heating mature enough to use in other applications, so you should dispose of it),
pad or seedling mat set to low clean out the jar thoroughly, use that jar to store the day's newly
refreshed culture, and refrigerate the rest as the new backup.
Why do you refresh just a portion of the starter?
Moving just 30 percent of your starter to a new home and adding more flour Backup for Cooking (“Sourdough Discard”):
and water dilutes the waste by-products of fermentation that could harm the Once you reach Step 3 and are refreshing the culture twice
microorganisms you are trying to propagate. The process also ensures that the daily, you can collect generations of backup (some sources
amount of starter you maintain is manageable and doesn’t quadruple each day. refer to leftover starter as “sourdough discard”) in a single
sealed jar—you’ll need a third, larger one—and refrigerate
My starter looks inactive; should I start over? them for up to two weeks. Once you have amassed a cup
Probably not. Visible activity tends to slow down after the first five days, but things or two of this sourdough discard, you can use it to flavor
are happening regardless. The only sign that you need to start over is significant visible all sorts of doughs and batters by replacing a portion of
mold, which can grow if the starter is stored at a temperature above 80 degrees. the flour and/or liquid with this flavorful culture. For our free
recipes for sourdough pancakes, biscuits, and crackers, go to
How can so little starter be enough to bake bread? CooksIllustrated.com/oct20. (Note that this sourdough
Once it's mature, a starter of any size can be scaled up. Maintaining a small discard cannot be used in place of a leavener.)
amount simply minimizes waste.

REFRESH TWICE DAILY CHECK READINESS FOR BAKING MAINTAIN AND BAKE WITH
STEP STEP STEP
MATURE STARTER
3 4 5
10 to 20
days

Refresh starter as before every 12 hours. At this

stage, in addition to saving leftover starter as backup,
you can collect generations of backup starter in a
larger sealed jar; store it in the refrigerator to keep
on hand for use in other nonbread applications such
as pancakes, biscuits, and crackers (see “Save the
Leftovers!”). If at any point the starter activity slows
down or stops altogether, return to refreshing the For information on how to scale up and bake
culture once daily. with mature starter; information on how to store,
CONDUCT A “FLOAT TEST” maintain, and cook with the remainder; and our
Place a blob of starter in a jar with water. If the starter recipes for Almost No-Knead Sourdough Bread
VISUAL CUE TO MOVE TO NEXT STEP floats, it’s producing and retaining ample amounts of and Classic Sourdough Bread (Pain au Levain), go
Starter doubles or triples in volume within 12 hours of carbon dioxide, meaning the yeast population has to CooksIllustrated.com/oct20.
being refreshed and smells yeasty/bready/yogurt-y. increased sufficiently.

september & october 2020

23
 Next-Level Yellow Sheet Cake
We make everyone’s favorite cake even better by combining a fine, plush texture
with fresh, homemade flavor. Then we crown it with a rich chocolate frosting.
j BY ANDREA GEARY k

Y
ellow sheet cake is a darling of American
desserts: It’s classic, universally liked,
and just right for serving by the square.
And yet it never seems to realize its full
potential. The crumb is usually OK—moist and
relatively coarse—but there’s no reason that a sheet
cake can’t have a truly special texture. I’m talking
about an extraordinarily fine, uniform crumb, the
kind so tender that it practically dissolves on the
palate. I wanted to combine this plush texture with
fresh, buttery flavor. And for a cake this good, only
a rich, creamy chocolate frosting would do.

Formula One
The unique crumb I’m referring to shows up in
what is known as a “high-ratio” cake. Most cake
formulas are low ratio, meaning they have slightly less
sugar by weight than flour, but some are high ratio,
meaning—you guessed it—they have more sugar
by weight than flour. And that’s key because sugar
doesn’t just sweeten a cake; it also adds moisture and
makes the crumb finer and more tender.
Quick experiment: I increased the sugar in a
low-ratio yellow cake recipe by 20 percent so that
it outweighed the flour. Quick result: The cake col-
lapsed right after I took it out of the oven. This is
where bleached cake flour, the signature ingredient
in high-ratio cake, comes in. Bleached cake flour A high-ratio formula (more sugar than flour) produces a crumb so fine that it nearly dissolves on the palate.
differs from all-purpose flour in three ways: It’s
more finely milled, it has less protein, and (surprise) Shady Results An emulsifier would help the liquid in the cake
it’s bleached. The first characteristic helps the flour When I cut into the cooled cake, I found damp, subtly stay evenly distributed throughout baking. Luckily,
disperse and absorb moisture more evenly, and the shaded areas in the crumb, mostly toward the bottom I always keep a superstrong emulsifier in my fridge.
second helps make cakes tender. But it’s the bleach- half of the cake. What was happening? Turns out, You probably do, too—it’s called egg yolk. Yolks
ing that’s really important here. Although it whitens some of the liquid in the batter was settling as it baked. contain lecithin, a powerful emulsifier. When I added
the flour, that’s not the primary objective: It also
alters the starch in such a way that the cake doesn’t
fall under the weight of extra sugar, liquid, or fat (see Why Use Bleached Cake Flour?
“Why Use Bleached Cake Flour?”). It’s vital to used bleached cake flour for this cake.
I searched for a few high-ratio cake recipes, and the That’s because exposure to chlorine gas (or other
one I liked best went like this: Cream 12¼ ounces bleaching methods) not only whitens flour but also
of sugar together with butter; whip in the eggs and alters its starch in such a way that the cake doesn’t
the liquid (which in this case was buttermilk with a shrink or fall once it is baked. It works in two ways: BLEACHED CAKE FLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
generous amount of vanilla); and then mix in the First, bleaching makes the starch in flour better Cake stands tall
dry ingredients—9 ounces of bleached cake flour, able to absorb the extra sugar (which dissolves
plus baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Pour the during baking), liquid, and fat present in high-ratio
batter into a greased and floured pan and bake it for cakes such as this one, thus creating a thicker bat-
about 30 minutes. ter that can hold tiny air bubbles to support a fine,
The vanilla flavor, so important to the subtle profile plush texture. Second, bleaching promotes the
of a yellow cake, was suitably strong. But the crumb gelatinization of the starch in the flour, which also UNBLEACHED CAKE FLOUR
was a bit dry and crumbly, and I noticed something develops structure in the crumb. Cake sags
odd with how it looked as I served it.

cook’s illustrated
24
TWO FATS, TWO BENEFITS
I came up with a solution: In addition to softened
Vegetable oil and butter each play a critical role in this butter, I beat ¼ cup of hot water (instead of milk) into
cake. Oil helps the crumb stay moist because it’s liquid the confectioners’ sugar and cocoa powder, which dis-
at room temperature, so it’s able to bond with free solved some of the sugar crystals for a smoother frost-
starch molecules and therefore slow the retrogradation ing (see “Creamy, Dreamy—and Sturdy—Frosting”).
process that causes staling. A solid fat such as butter When the butter was well incorporated, I added a
is much less able to bond with starch, so an all-butter couple ounces of melted bittersweet chocolate for
cake seems dry. But butter provides one of the few fla- deep, dark flavor. At first, the frosting looked far too
vors in yellow cake, so its inclusion was nonnegotiable. loose to be spreadable, but after sitting for a few min-
utes, it was thick and creamy, ready to be smoothed
YOU NEED over the top of my cake.
BOTH
This classic dessert had been upgraded in exactly
Butter provides
flavor; oil keeps the way that I had envisioned: Here was a tender,
the cake moist. fine-textured cake full of butter and vanilla, topped
with rich chocolate frosting.

YELLOW SHEET CAKE

WITH CHOCOLATE FROSTING
SERVES 12 TO 15
TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR, PLUS 2½ HOURS COOLING Creamy, Dreamy—and
Sturdy—Frosting
Use a metal baking pan for this recipe; a glass baking American chocolate buttercream, the sweetly
dish will cause the edges of the cake to overbake as it nostalgic mixture of softened butter, milk or
two extra egg yolks to my batter, the “shadow” that cools. It’s important to use bleached cake flour here; cream, confectioners’ sugar, cocoa powder, and/
had marred my earlier cake disappeared. substituting unbleached cake flour or a combination or melted bittersweet chocolate, holds up well
I now had quintessential yellow cake flavor: all of all-purpose flour and cornstarch will cause the cake in warm weather, but it can have a gritty texture
butter and vanilla and egg yolks. But the crumb was to fall. To ensure the proper texture, weigh the flour. because there’s not enough moisture in the mixture
still a little dry and a little more open and crumbly Our favorite bittersweet chocolate is Ghirardelli 60% to dissolve the very fine sugar crystals. To smooth
than I wanted. Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate Premium Baking Bar. things out for our version, we beat the sugar, cocoa
powder, and softened butter with a little hot water
Mixing Matters Cake instead of milk, which helps dissolve most of the
To address the dryness, I replaced some of the butter 4 large eggs plus 2 large yolks sugar. Once the mixture is combined, we add
with vegetable oil. Not only would this produce a ½ cup buttermilk melted bittersweet chocolate for even more depth.
moister cake, but the cake would stay that way for lon- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
ger (see “Two Fats, Two Benefits”). But this meant 2¼ cups (9 ounces) bleached cake flour
that I needed to reconsider my mixing method. The 1¾ cups (12¼ ounces) granulated sugar running, slowly add egg mixture. When mixture is
conventional creaming method requires beating the 1¼ teaspoons baking powder fully incorporated, stop mixer and scrape down bowl
butter and sugar together until the mixture is light ¼ teaspoon baking soda and paddle thoroughly. Beat on medium-high speed
and fluffy before adding the remaining ingredients. ½ teaspoon table salt until batter is pale, smooth, and thick, about 3 min-
Half the fat in my new cake was liquid (oil), which 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened utes. Transfer batter to prepared pan and smooth
can’t hold air the way that solid fat (butter) can, so ½ cup vegetable oil top. Tap pan firmly on counter 5 times to release
creaming was no longer viable. But reverse creaming? any large air bubbles.
That’s different. Frosting 3. Bake until toothpick inserted in center comes
Reverse creaming is simple. Just combine the 2¼ cups (9 ounces) confectioners’ sugar out with few crumbs attached, 28 to 32 minutes.
sugar, flour, leavening, and salt in the bowl of your ½ cup (1½ ounces) unsweetened cocoa powder Let cake cool completely in pan on wire rack, about
stand mixer, and then add the fat. Mix it until it’s 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2 hours.
combined. Next, add the liquid and eggs and beat ¼ cup hot water 4. FOR THE FROSTING: Combine sugar,
the heck out of it, turning up the speed once the ¼ teaspoon table salt cocoa, butter, hot water, and salt in bowl of stand
mixture is combined. Only a small amount of air gets 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted mixer fitted with whisk attachment. Mix on low speed
incorporated during mixing, resulting in a superfine until combined, about 20 seconds. Increase speed to
texture. It worked beautifully. The cake had a tender, 1. FOR THE CAKE: Adjust oven rack to middle medium and continue to mix until smooth, about
moist, and fine-grained crumb. On to the frosting. position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and 1 minute longer, scraping down bowl as necessary.
flour 13 by 9-inch baking pan. Combine eggs and Add melted chocolate and whip on low speed until
Frosting on the Cake yolks, buttermilk, and vanilla in 2-cup liquid measur- incorporated. Let sit at room temperature until thick-
This cake is especially perfect for casual summer meals, ing cup and whisk with fork until smooth. ened to spreadable consistency, 30 to 40 minutes.
so it was important that the frosting could stand up 2. Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, baking 5. Frost cake. Refrigerate until frosting is set,
to warm, humid weather. American chocolate but- soda, and salt in bowl of stand mixer fitted with about 20 minutes, before serving.
tercream, the simple mixture of butter, confectioners’ paddle. Mix on low speed until combined, about
sugar, milk or cream, cocoa powder, and/or melted 20 seconds. Add butter and oil and mix on low FOR NUTRITION
bittersweet chocolate, holds up well, but I had reserva- speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Increase INFORMATION AND MORE
tions. Its fine sugar crystals can sometimes feel a little speed to medium and beat until lightened, about Visit CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20
coarse on the tongue. 1 minute. Reduce speed to low and, with mixer

september & october 2020

25
 Testing 12-Inch Ceramic Skillets
The ceramic skillets we’ve tested have never been able to compete
with regular nonstick cookware. Have they improved?
j BY KATE SHANNON k

R
egular nonstick skillets have come under pan had fairly steep sides that inhibited our ability
scrutiny for containing a substance to easily maneuver the food in it. Which Type of Nonstick
called polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). We then pitted our favorite of these two pans Skillet Is Right for You?
Its unique molecular structure makes against our favorite traditional nonstick skillet from
for a superstrong, fairly flexible, and very slippery OXO. We purchased new copies of both pans and did REGULAR NONSTICK
coating, but it can degrade and release dangerous five side-by-side cooking tests—pancakes, fried eggs, Chemically Coated: Yes (PTFE)
fumes when it’s heated to above 500 degrees. caramelized onions, more beef and broccoli stir-fry, Heat Retention: Heats up more slowly
Ceramic nonstick skillets are often touted as being and pan-seared salmon—standardizing burner heat Durability: Coating will wear away, though you
safer, more environmentally friendly options than levels and adhering to recipe cooking times. The two can get more use out of it if you avoid scratching
regular nonstick skillets. But in past tests we found batches of pancakes and eggs cooked over lower heat it, burning on food, and heating it while empty
that foods stuck in most of the models, even when were hard to tell apart. But the recipes that called for Best For: Those who don’t want to season their
they were brand-new, and that the skillets’ nonstick higher heat levels told a clear story: The ceramic pan cookware and who are willing to replace their
surfaces quickly deteriorated with use. Because ran hotter. The foods we made in it cooked faster and skillet periodically
kitchen equipment is constantly improving, we pur- were more prone to sticking than the foods cooked in
chased seven 12-inch ceramic nonstick skillets, priced the OXO skillet, in which food never stuck. CERAMIC NONSTICK
from about $19 to about $80, Beneath their coatings, both Chemically Coated: Yes (ceramic)
and conducted a series of cooking pans are made of aluminum, and Heat Retention: Heats quickly and stays hot;
tests. First, we ran a test common they are of a similar weight and may require extra vigilance while cooking
in the cookware industry: cooking thickness, so we focused on the Durability: Coating will wear away, though you
eggs in a dry skillet back-to-back, coatings. The PTFE in regular can get more use out of it if you avoid scratching
stopping either when they began nonstick coatings is a type of it and burning on food
to stick or when we had made plastic, and it acts as a thermal Best For: Those who don’t want to season their
50 consecutive eggs. Second, we insulator, slowing the transmission cookware, are wary of the potential hazards of
made beef and broccoli stir-fry, of heat from the aluminum pan to PTFE, and don’t mind adjusting recipes written
pepper and onion frittata, and the food cooking in it. By contrast, specifically for regular nonstick cookware
pan-fried sole to help us assess each ceramic coatings conduct heat,
pan’s capacity, browning ability, so skillets coated in them heat up CARBON STEEL
and maneuverability. Third, we quicker and stay hotter than regu- Chemically Coated: No (develops nonstick
To test durability, we fried eggs one
asked three testers to use them after another in each skillet until the lar nonstick skillets. When cooking seasoning with use)
to sauté peas. Lastly, we repeated eggs began to stick (up to 50 eggs). in our favorite ceramic pan, we Heat Retention: Once preheated, carbon steel
the egg test to see if the coatings had to follow visual cues and our heats evenly and retains heat well
deteriorated with use. To test durability, we cut in instincts, lowering the flame or taking the pan off the Durability: Skillet will last forever, though it will
them with a knife, heated them and then plunged heat sooner than called for in a recipe. need to be reseasoned occasionally, especially if
them into ice water, and whacked them three times Though ceramic skillets have improved dramati- used to cook acidic foods
on a cement block. cally since we first tested them more than a decade Best For: Those who want to avoid nonstick
Ceramic nonstick skillets are sprayed with a liquid ago, they can’t match the performance of PTFE coatings and don’t mind a little maintenance
material that, when heated during manufacturing, skillets. If you’re smitten with the slickness of your
hardens to a slick surface. This coating is derived from favorite traditional nonstick skillet and are careful
beach sand and unlikely to release toxic fumes, even never to heat it while it’s empty or let it exceed induction compatible. At about half the price of our
when heated to high temperatures. However, ceramic 500 degrees, you’ll probably want to continue using winner, the Kyocera Ceramic-Coated 12" Nonstick
coatings are brittle and likely to develop microscopic it. If you are intrigued by the potential safety benefits Frypan is our Best Buy. It has steeper sides and felt a
surface cracks during everyday use that affect the slick- of a reliable ceramic skillet and are willing to make bit heavier in our hands, which made it a little harder
ness of the cooking surface. The rougher a cooking some adjustments to recipes as you cook (and know to use, but it remained slick and durable throughout
PHOTOGRAPHY: KEVIN WHITE

surface becomes, the more likely food is to stick to it. that the food may sometimes stick slightly and the testing. One final note: We’re encouraged by the
So how did the newest ceramic skillets perform in pan may take a bit more effort to clean), we can performance of these two pans, but we can’t yet vouch
our tests? Most performed so poorly that we can’t recommend two good models. Our favorite, the for their long-term durability. We’ll continue using
recommend them. But two of the seven not only GreenPan Valencia Pro Hard Anodized Nonstick them in the test kitchen and will update our findings.
passed the egg test with flying colors but also cooked Frypan, offers plenty of flat cooking surface, gently
everything we put in them well and exhibited no sloped walls to keep food contained, and a comfort- READ MORE ABOUT THE TESTING
sticking. Both had handles that were comfortable able handle. The pan is ovensafe up to 600 degrees, CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20
to grip and felt secure in our hands. That said, one broiler-safe (unusual for nonstick cookware), and

cook’s illustrated
26
 KEY

GOOD +++
++
OUR RESULTS FAIR
POOR +

METHODOLOGY
• Test seven 12-inch skillets, priced from about RECOMMENDED TESTERS’ COMMENTS

$19 to about $80

GREENPAN Valencia Pro Hard Anodized Nonstick Frypan One of only two pans to pass our test
• Confirm with manufacturers that none con- MODEL: CC002679-001 $79.99 WEIGHT: 2.60 lb
PRICE:
of nonstick coating durability, this pan
tain polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), the arrived slick and remained so through-
COOKING SURFACE DIAMETER: 9½ in OVENSAFE TO: 600°F out cooking and abuse tests. It also has
chemical compound best known by the brand INDUCTION COMPATIBLE: Yes a broad cooking surface, gently sloped
name Teflon NONSTICK ABILITY: +++ WINNER walls, and a comfortable handle. It runs
a little hotter than our favorite regular
• Fry eggs in brand-new skillets with no oil, one after CAPACITY: +++
nonstick skillet, so you may need to
another, until they begin to stick (up to 50 eggs) EASE OF USE: ++ adjust the heat level or cooking time
DURABILITY: ++½ when following recipes. It became
• Prepare Beef and Broccoli Stir-Fry scratched when we cut in it.
• Cook Pepper and Onion Frittata with Arugula
Salad, starting on the stovetop, finishing in a KYOCERA Ceramic-Coated 12" Nonstick Frypan This pan remained slick throughout
350-degree oven, and then sliding it out of the pan MODEL: CFP30BK $40.98 WEIGHT: 2.65 lb
PRICE:
our testing and was one of only two
in one piece pans to do so. However, its shape
COOKING SURFACE DIAMETER: 10 in OVENSAFE TO: 400°F resembles a sauté pan more than it
• Make Pan-Fried Sole with Lemony Herb Butter INDUCTION COMPATIBLE: Yes does a skillet. Because this pan’s sides
NONSTICK ABILITY: +++ BEST are fairly tall and steep, it requires
• Recruit three additional testers to use each pan BUY
more care to slide out a frittata or
CAPACITY: +++
to make Sautéed Peas with Shallots and Mint angle a spatula under an egg or piece
EASE OF USE: ++
of fish. Like our winner, it has a com-
• Wash by hand 10 times DURABILITY: ++½ fortable handle, but the skillet feels a
little heavy.
• Repeat dry-egg test to see if the nonstick coating
has deteriorated with use
• Make four cuts in the pan (as if slicing a frittata N OT R E C O M M E N D E D TESTERS’ COMMENTS

into eight servings) using a paring knife and check

CUISINART GreenGourmet Hard-Anodized Nonstick This skillet was one of our favorites
for scratching
12-Inch Open Skillet until it failed the second dry-egg
• Heat each pan to 400 degrees and then plunge it MODEL: GG22-30 PRICE: $49.99 WEIGHT: 2.45 lb test after releasing just nine eggs.
It’s shaped nicely, with a sufficiently
into 32-degree water and check for warping COOKING SURFACE DIAMETER: 9 in broad cooking surface and gently
• Bang each pan three times on a cement block to OVENSAFE TO: 400°F sloped walls. The handle is especially
NONSTICK ABILITY: + CAPACITY: ++ comfortable. In our abuse tests, the
gauge durability cooking surface dented slightly.
EASE OF USE: ++ DURABILITY: ++½
• Prepare five additional recipes in a new copy
of our favorite ceramic skillet and compare the BIALETTI Ceramic Pro 11.75 in Sauté Pan This pan’s cooking surface is a little
07402 $43.54 2.00 lb smaller than those of our favorites,
results to the same recipes made in a new copy MODEL: PRICE: WEIGHT:
so we had to be careful when stirring
of our favorite regular 12-inch nonstick skillet COOKING SURFACE DIAMETER: 8⅞ in food. It was one of the slickest pans
from OXO OVENSAFE TO: 400°F when new, but its slickness deterio-
NONSTICK ABILITY: + CAPACITY: ++ rated with use. It became dented when
EASE OF USE: ++ DURABILITY: ++ we whacked it on a hard surface.
NONSTICK ABILITY: We monitored how
many eggs the pans cleanly released at the beginning TRAMONTINA Ceramic Deluxe 12 In. Fry Pan We liked this pan’s size and shape as
and end of testing. We also noted whether the food MODEL: 80110 /020DS $44.95 WEIGHT: 2.95 lb
PRICE:
well as its broad and grippy handle.
we prepared between egg tests stuck or was easy to But the surface became less slick with
COOKING SURFACE DIAMETER: 9½ in use (it failed the second dry-egg test).
remove. This was the most important criterion. OVENSAFE TO: 350°F The pan is not recommended for use
NONSTICK ABILITY: + CAPACITY: +++ in ovens hotter than 350 degrees, and
CAPACITY: We compared the size of the pans’ EASE OF USE: ++ DURABILITY: +½ it dented slightly in our abuse tests.
cooking surfaces and the height and angle of their
walls, noting whether we could stir food without COOK N HOME 12-Inch/30cm Ceramic Nonstick Saute This big, bowl-shaped model didn’t
spilling it. Skillet Fry Pan resemble a skillet, and the high sides
MODEL: 02560 PRICE: $19.91 WEIGHT: 2.10 lb made it hard to slide out a frittata. Its
EASE OF USE: We considered whether it was handle wiggled slightly before we even
COOKING SURFACE DIAMETER: 9 in started using it, and the pan is oven-
easy and comfortable to maneuver the pans on OVENSAFE TO: 350°F safe to only 350 degrees. Although it
the stovetop and in the oven, lift them into the air, NONSTICK ABILITY: + CAPACITY: +++ was impressively slick when new, it
empty them, and wash them. We also considered EASE OF USE: + DURABILITY: +½ failed the second dry-egg test.
whether the pans could be used to prepare recipes
as written or if they required a lower heat, shorter COPPER CHEF 12" Round Fry Pan with Lid This lightweight skillet was the only one
cooking time, or other adjustments by the cook. MODEL: 12RPL PRICE: $24.99 WEIGHT: 1.75 lb we tested that couldn’t cleanly release
50 eggs at the beginning of testing. In
COOKING SURFACE DIAMETER: 8½ in fact, food stuck every time we used it.
DURABILITY : We noted whether the pans 850°F
OVENSAFE TO: It had a fairly small cooking surface, it
warped, dented, and/or scratched over the course NONSTICK ABILITY: + CAPACITY: ++ dented significantly in our abuse tests,
of testing. We also considered the pans’ maximum EASE OF USE: ++ DURABILITY: + and its handle got quite hot.
ovensafe temperatures.

september & october 2020

27
 A Toast to Sesame Oil
Nutty and fragrant, a good-quality toasted sesame oil can enhance all kinds of dishes,
but bad ones just taste bitter or burnt. How do you guarantee great flavor?
j BY LISA McMANUS k

W
e love toasted sesame oil in the test roast them. The roasting step is key: Just as when
kitchen. Just a teaspoon or two nuts or coffee beans are roasted or bread is toasted,
adds a burst of distinctive toasty, the application of heat kicks off the Maillard reaction,
nutty, roasted flavor to any num- which creates new flavor compounds and turns the
ber of recipes, from meats to vegetables to salads seeds deep golden brown. Once they’ve cooled, the
to stir-fries. Sesame seeds contain about 50 percent seeds are pressed, and the amber-colored oil is filtered
oil, and sesame oil is one of the oldest foods made to remove seed particles before being bottled. No
by humans; archaeologists have found evidence other additives or enhancements are needed.
of its production going back thousands of years. According to experts, including a 2016 article pub-
Today it’s widely used throughout Asia, and the lished in the International Journal of Food Properties,
United States is one of its biggest importers. the biggest factors causing the different sensory
There are two types of sesame oil, and they can’t qualities of toasted sesame oils are the seeds’ roasting
be used interchangeably. Untoasted sesame oil, which times and the temperatures at which they’re roasted.
is pressed from raw sesame seeds, has It’s just like when you toast a slice of
almost no color, flavor, or scent. It USE IT IN THIS ISSUE! white bread: Depending on the heat set- WHY WE LOVE IT
also has a high smoke point, which We call for toasted sesame ting and the length of the toasting time, Top-quality toasted sesame oils are amber brown
makes it a good cooking oil. By con- oil in our Xihóngshì Chǎo the resulting color and flavor will range to brown in color, with an intense nutty aroma and
trast, toasted sesame oil is deep amber Jidàn (Chinese Stir-Fried from unchanged and pale to golden and flavor. Given the oil’s distinct character, a teaspoon
Tomatoes and Eggs) recipe
to brown in color, with an intensely on page 12 to add savory sweetly caramelized to black with a burnt or two of it is all you need to add complexity to
toasty, nutty aroma and flavor and a notes and hints of taste. There’s brinkmanship involved in noodles, stir-fries, grains, salads, salad dressings,
much lower smoke point. We gener- nutty flavor. toasting sesame seeds, where higher, hot- marinades, vegetables, and more.
ally don’t cook with it but use it as a ter temperatures and/or longer roasting
finishing oil, adding a teaspoon or two at the end of times yield more than 240 volatile aroma and flavor
cooking or incorporating it into a dressing or sauce. compounds, with pyrazines, which provide roasted, disappeared when we used it to dress the rice salad,
Because it’s such an important element in so many nutty flavors, being one of the most prominent. But leaving behind the intense roasted nuttiness and just
of our recipes, we chose to focus on toasted sesame roasting increases the presence of compounds such a hint of char. But the lower-ranking oils had stronger
oil. We bought eight top-selling products, priced from as pyrazines only up to a point. When the roasting off-flavors that persisted in the rice salad, leaving acrid,
about $0.40 to about $2.00 per ounce, to discover continues for too long or at too high a temperature, bitter impressions with our tasters. Because we add
which tasted best. We sampled them in two blind other, less desirable flavors appear. toasted sesame oil specifically for its flavor, whether
tastings, first plain and then in Rice Salad with Peas While manufacturers keep their exact roasting it’s in a simple dressing or dipping sauce or in another
and Mushrooms. times and temperatures a trade secret, it was easy for application where it is not cooked, we preferred oils
We were surprised by how much the oils differed our tasters to perceive whether the seeds for these that tasted great both plain and in a recipe.
in taste. Tasters described flavors that ranged from oils had been toasted too much, too little, or just While we recommend most of the oils we tasted,
“nutty, toasty, tasty,” and “a touch smoky,” with an enough, and the resulting flavors clearly influenced our favorite was Ottogi Premium Roasted Sesame
“almost oaky or bourbon quality,” to “a bit too deli- our rankings. One oil had a pale color and “delicate” Oil. It won over our tasters with its well-developed
cate” or, worse, “fishy,” “bitter,” and “too intense.” toasted flavor that some tasters found delicious when rich, deep toasted sesame flavor and aroma that

PHOTO (BOTTOM): BLICKWINKEL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

To understand this variance, it helps to know how plain but too subtle when we mixed it into rice salad. reminded some of peanut butter or tahini while
toasted sesame oil is made. Before milling or pressing Another was fairly fierce, with bitter, burnt notes avoiding the bitter, acrid notes of less-favored oils.
whole sesame seeds to extract their oil, manufacturers when tasted plain, but the unfavorable impressions Tasters gave it high marks when they tasted it plain,
and they enjoyed the way it added depth and com-
plexity to the rice salad. It is also one of only two oils
Where Does Sesame Oil Come From? in our lineup sold in dark-colored, nonreactive bottles
Sesame oil comes from the seeds of the Sesamum indicum plant, that protect the oil quality, and tasters appreciated the
which is native to Africa and India but now grows in many other coun- resulting fresher flavor. One final note: We’ve learned
tries. It’s a hardy flowering plant that grows well even in dry climates. that Ottogi is sold in two different containers that are
The seeds, which grow in pods, are composed of about 50 percent oil; made in two different countries. The glass-bottled
this oil is easy to extract by mechanical pressing, so sesame is one of the version, which we tasted and recommend, is made
earliest known sources of cooking oil in the world. For toasted sesame in China. The version sold in metal tins is made in
oils, such as the ones we tasted, the seeds are toasted to develop their South Korea and has less nuttiness and more charcoal
nutty, toasty flavors before pressing. notes; we prefer the glass-bottled oil. We’ll be stock-
ing it in our pantry.

cook’s illustrated
28
 WINNER
OUR RESULTS

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

METHODOLOGY
• Taste eight widely • Purchased in RECOMMENDED
available toasted Boston-area
DYNASTY Premium Sesame Oil 6 LEE KUM KEE Pure Sesame Oil
sesame oils, supermarkets and 2
(100% Pure) PRICE: $5.99 for 15 oz ($0.40 per oz)
priced from about online
PRICE: $5.62 for 5 oz ($1.12 per oz) COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Confidential
$0.40 to about COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Japan
• Taste plain and COMMENTS: Tasters generally approved of this oil, but
$2.00 per ounce COMMENTS: “Very roasted and toasted in flavor,” this oil some had mixed reactions: “A bit too delicate but I still
in Rice Salad
“definitely tastes like sesame” and is “slightly bitter,” with like it,” wrote one taster. “Pretty subtle,” with a “pleasant
• Products selected with Peas and a “nice aroma.” In rice salad, it was “very bold-tasting.” “It nuttiness,” this oil was “toasty, nutty but not too much
from among Mushrooms had just a hint of a bitter taste in the back that made me so.” It lost points for some “plasticky” off-flavors. In
the top-selling dock points,” noted one taster. rice salad, it was “pleasant” but a bit too subtle: “I could
• Samples hardly taste the sesame flavor at all; it was overpowered
supermarket
randomized in by the rice,” remarked one taster.
brands as compiled 3 KADOYA Pure Sesame Oil
blind taste tests to $8.97 for 11 oz ($0.82 per oz)
by IRI, a Chicago- PRICE:
eliminate bias R E C O M M E N D E D W I T H R E S E R VAT I O N S
based market COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Japan

research firm COMMENTS: “Nutty, toasty, tasty. The sesame flavor

really shines,” wrote one taster, and many others agreed, 7 SUN LUCK Pure Sesame Oil
finding it “a touch smoky,” with an “almost oaky or bour- PRICE: $5.39 for 5 oz ($1.08 per oz)
bon quality” and a “slightly bitter finish.” A few thought Company did not respond
RECOMMENDED it was slightly too “delicate” or “muted.” The “flavor was
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:

nice, just not strong enough,” one taster concluded. COMMENTS: “This tastes burnt, like toast that got too dark
1 OTTOGI Premium Roasted Sesame Oil or the way coffee beans smell when they’re roasting. It’s
too much, too far, too intense,” wrote one taster when
PRICE: $11.99 for 10.82 oz ($1.11 per oz) 4
WINNER
LA TOURANGELLE Toasted Sesame Oil they tried this oil plain. Some noted a “fishy” flavor, and
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: China many gave it a firm thumbs-down. However, in rice salad
PRICE: $6.99 for 8.45 oz ($0.83 per oz)
COMMENTS: With a “much more nutty, almost it came across as more mild, and off-flavors receded a bit.
COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN: Japan, Mexico
roasted-peanut flavor” than other samples, this oil had One taster commented that it had a “slight bitterness and a
“strong sesame flavor, with a tahini-like aroma” and was COMMENTS: Tasters called out this oil’s “delicate, elegant, burnt aftertaste” but that the salad was “still enjoyable.”
“not bitter or burnt”-tasting, whether we tried it plain or toasted sesame flavor.” It was “light, almost sweet, but-
in rice salad. With “lovely complexity,” it struck tasters as tery,” and “a bit too delicate.” “I’m missing some toasted
flavor,” one taster wrote. “What sesame oil?” another N OT R E C O M M E N D E D
“buttery,” with “gorgeous,” “round” flavor and “golden
color.” “OMG, so sweet and nutty and flavorful I could quipped when tasting the rice salad. It is sold in a nonreac-
drink a whole cup of this,” one taster raved. “I found tive, light-blocking steel tin that helps preserve fresh flavor. 8 SPECTRUM Toasted Sesame Oil
myself going back for a few bites,” another agreed. We PRICE: $8.69 for 16 oz ($0.54 per oz)
appreciate that it is sold in a light-blocking, nonreactive IMPERIAL DRAGON 100% Pure
5 COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Oil produced in Mexico; packaged
amber glass bottle that protects the oil’s fresh flavor. Sesame Seed Oil in the United States
PRICE: $7.86 for 5 oz ($1.57 per oz) COMMENTS: This oil barely passed muster with our tasters
Can plain and toasted sesame oil be COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: Japan in salad but completely failed when tasted plain. With “very
used interchangeably? COMMENTS: Featuring a “caramelly coffee aroma, with little sesame flavor” and “no aroma of sesame,” it “just
nutty bitter tastes that are immediately apparent,” this tastes like oil.” It was “bitter up front . . . with a more mild
No, they cannot. The plain (or cold-pressed) variety is
“smoky,” “very toasty, and thick” oil was “a little too finish.” Some noted that it tasted “fishy” and mentioned
made from raw sesame seeds and has very little color,
severe,” “way too bitter,” and “acrid” when tasted plain “crayons”—potential signs of oil rancidity, even though the
smell, or flavor. Its neutral taste and high smoke point make
but “fantastic” and “really tasty” in the rice salad. “Best By” date was more than a year away.
it a good oil for cooking. It also keeps for months at room
temperature. Toasted (or roasted) sesame oil, on the other
hand, is made from toasted seeds—toasting draws out rich
flavor and aroma from the seeds. Toasted sesame oil has a
Web subscribers can access the full tasting results at CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20.
deep brown color, a lower smoke point, and a shorter shelf
life than plain sesame oil.
september & october 2020
29
 K I TC H E N N OT E S
j BY STEVE DUNN, ANDREA GEARY & LAN LAM k

When to Heat Frying Oil Lower and Slower

Tasting Angel Hair Pasta While developing our recipes for Bhature (page 11) and Yeasted Doughnuts
(May/June 2020), we noticed that if we heated the frying oil quickly over high
Few pasta shapes are more divisive than angel hair. Angel hair (or capellini, the heat, we had trouble maintaining a consistent temperature during cooking.
Italian word for “little hairs”) is a rod-shaped pasta approximately the same length But if we heated it more slowly, it was easier to keep the oil within our target
as spaghetti but much thinner. It’s this thinness that has inspired vitriol; major food range. To confirm our observations, we ran some tests.
publications have penned think pieces with snide titles such as “You Couldn’t Pay We heated 2 quarts of oil to 350 degrees over high heat and then turned
Me to Eat Angel Hair.” down the heat to medium to replicate the temperature drop oil experiences
Success with this pasta shape starts when food is added. Though we had lowered the heat, the oil temperature
with knowing how to cook it, as Associate continued to climb for a full 5 minutes, reaching a high of 370 degrees; it
Editor Steve Dunn proved in our May/ then took 20 minutes to drop back down to 350 degrees. (We witnessed a
June 2020 issue. Its thin strands should be similar phenomenon whether the pot was made of cast iron or thinner, more
light but still substantial and twirl effort- responsive material like aluminum or carbon steel.) This continued rise in tem-
lessly around a fork. To find the best angel perature—and the lengthy time it took to return to 350—means that keeping
hair, we sampled eight products, priced the oil at the target temperature would have required constant adjustment of
from about $1.50 to about $5.50 per the burner strength. When we performed the same test on oil that we heated
pound. Six of the products were sold as long, rigid strands, but we also included over medium-high heat, the temperature climbed a few degrees after we
two products that were shaped into nests. We sampled them cooked plain and in turned down the heat but then began to drop almost immediately, returning
Steve’s recipe for Angel Hair Pasta with Basil, Caper, and Lemon Sauce. to 350 degrees after just 4 minutes. The oil then stayed within 5 degrees of
Our tasters liked the flavors of all the products we tried. A few of the our target for more than 15 minutes without any adjustment of the dial.
higher-ranked products stood out for their “nuttiness” or slight “wheaty” flavor,
which tasters said provided a bit of complexity, but all the pastas had a “mellow” 400 medium-high heat high heat
DEGREES (F)
flavor that was a “clean” canvas for sauce. We also preferred the products sold
as strands to those formed into nests, which tended to break apart more than
strands did, even before cooking. Nests and strands aside, the textures of the 350
pastas when cooked ranged from chewy and distinct to soft and sticky. Tasters heat turned down
preferred thicker strands, which were more “substantial” and “toothsome,” with
a slight “bite” that was missing from thinner strands. The strands of our favorite
product, Barilla Angel Hair, were relatively thick and springy; didn’t tangle or 10 20 30 40
clump; and had a clean, neutral flavor. While the strands were among the thickest MINUTES
of the products we tried, they were still significantly thinner than spaghetti, with If you’re frying dense, wet food such as chicken parts, which absorb a lot
the lightness we expect of ethereal “angel” hair. –Lauren Savoie of energy, heating the oil quickly isn’t a problem; the oil temperature will drop
when you add the food. But when frying lower-mass items such as bhature
RECOMMENDED and doughnuts, which absorb far less energy, hastily heated oil will continue
to heat up, and you’ll end up frantically adjusting the dial or, worse, burn-
BARILLA Angel Hair
ing your food. You’ll also spend more time waiting for the oil to cool down.
PRICE: $1.67 for 1 lb ($0.10 per oz)
Going forward, we’ll make sure to heat our oil slowly for such foods. –A.G.
STYLE: Strands AVERAGE COOKED THICKNESS: 1.4 mm
COMMENTS: These “substantial,” “chewy” strands were some of the thickest of all the

PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE; ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

products we tried, and tasters loved their texture, which was “heartier but still distinctly
angel hair.” Their flavor was “mild” and “nutty,” with a “hint of sweetness.”
What
is it Before nonstick pans and vegetable oil spray were the norm
in home kitchens, cooks relied on gadgets such as this “grid-
RONZONI Angel Hair
PRICE: $1.67 for 1 lb ($0.10 per oz) dle greaser” to apply fats to a skillet or griddle. This early 1900s version
STYLE: Strands AVERAGE COOKED THICKNESS: 1.2 mm has a 6-inch-long wooden handle at one end and a steel clamp designed
COMMENTS: While these noodles were thinner than our winner, most tasters still to hold a cloth pad at the other. The pad would have been soaked in fat
thought these “skinny” strands were “distinct” and “not at all clumpy or gummy.” Their
flavor was “clean” and “neutral,” with a slight “nutty” and “wheaty” aftertaste.
(oil, butter, or bacon grease) and then brushed over the cooking surface.
Our model was missing its original cloth pad, so we fashioned a new one
out of cheesecloth to test how the gadget worked. We used it to brush
RUSTICHELLA D’ABRUZZO Capellini stainless-steel skillets variously with oil, melted butter, and softened
PRICE: $4.99 for 17.6 oz ($0.28 per oz)
butter to cook pancakes. The tool worked beautifully to
STYLE: Strands AVERAGE COOKED THICKNESS: 1.3 mm
COMMENTS: These imported Italian noodles were the longest of the products we
lay down a thin coat of each fat, providing just the
sampled. The strands were relatively “thick” and “chewy,” with a “clean” flavor profile right degree of lubrication for every
and hints of “nuttiness.” batch and without any of the
pooling that can cause
Web subscribers can see the full tasting results at CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20. uneven cooking. –S.D.

cook’s illustrated
30
 Why (and How) to Roast Squash and Melon Seeds DIY RECIPE Spicy Ginger Syrup
Roasting pumpkin seeds turns them into a crunchy, salty, nutty-tasting snack that you Fresh ginger has a fiery bite, but it fades with heat
can customize with your favorite spices. But don’t stop there: The seeds from other and time. For a ginger syrup that retains its pun-
winter squash varieties such as butternut and acorn are equally fair game—and so are gency, we grind lots of ginger with sugar and let it
seeds from summer melons. Like squash seeds, melon seeds are full of protein, and sit until the liquid released from the ginger dissolves
roasting them has long been popular in places including Africa, Asia, and the Middle the sugar crystals—no cooking required. Salt adds
East. Here’s our favorite method for roasting seeds from any type of gourd. dimension, and red pepper flakes bolster the ginger
with heat that’s subtle but lasting. A small amount
1. Rinse 1 cup melon or winter squash of vinegar adds a hint of acidity. –A.G.
seeds in colander under running water, swish- TOASTED
ing with your hands to remove large pieces of BUTTERNUT SPICY GINGER SYRUP
stringy flesh (don’t worry about small bits). SQUASH MAKES 1¼ CUPS TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES
Spread seeds over dish towel. Top with sec- SEEDS
ond dish towel, then press gently to ensure Use this fiery syrup to spice up all sorts of bever-
good contact. Let dry for about 15 minutes. ages: Mix one part syrup and five parts seltzer and
2. Toss seeds, 2 teaspoons olive oil, pour over ice to make a refreshing nonalcoholic
1 teaspoon spice blend (¼- to ½-teaspoon ginger beer. Add lime juice and 2 ounces of vodka
measures of your favorite spices), and to your ginger beer and you have a Moscow Mule.
½ teaspoon kosher salt together in bowl. Substitute dark rum for the vodka and it’s a Dark and Stormy. The syrup also
Spread seeds over rimmed baking sheet makes a nice addition to iced tea, hot cider, or a hot toddy. There’s no need to
lined with parchment paper and bake in peel the ginger.
350-degree oven on middle rack until light
golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes for melon 1½ cups sugar
seeds or 20 to 25 minutes for winter squash 8 ounces ginger, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds
seeds, stirring halfway through baking. ¼ teaspoon table salt
Let cool on sheet. Serve. (Roasted ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
seeds can be stored in airtight TOASTED 2 teaspoons cider vinegar
container at room temperature for HONEYDEW
up to 2 weeks.) –S.D. MELON SEEDS Process sugar, ginger, salt, and pepper flakes in food processor until finely
ground, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl halfway through process-
ing. Let stand for 5 minutes. Continue to process 1 minute longer, scraping down
Best Way to Freeze Fruit Pie sides of bowl halfway through processing. Let stand for 5 minutes. Meanwhile,
Preserving a taste of summer and fall can be, well, as easy as pie—if you make a fresh set fine-mesh strainer over medium bowl and line with double layer of cheese-
fruit pie and freeze it. The key is to freeze the pie unbaked. We found that fruit pies that cloth that overhangs sides of strainer. Transfer ginger mixture to prepared
we’d frozen after baking had noticeably soggy crusts once they were thawed and that strainer and let drain until liquid no longer runs freely, about 5 minutes. Gather
their fillings weren’t as bright-tasting. But pies we froze before baking were barely distin- edges of cheesecloth and squeeze to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard
guishable from freshly made ones. pulp. Stir in vinegar. (Syrup can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.)
It’s not surprising that the crust of a fruit pie frozen after baking would be less crisp
and flaky than the crust of one frozen before baking. As soon as it’s out of the oven, the
pastry begins to absorb moisture. Freezing it then tacks on a lot more time for moisture
to be absorbed: First the pie must cool, and then it takes hours to freeze and more Bring On the (Preserved Vegetable) Funk
hours to thaw. For most of that time, moisture is migrating into the crust. –S.D. A trademark of classic Sichuan dishes such as dry-fried green beans (gan bian si ji
dou) and dan dan mian (see our recipe on page 7) is their underpinning of gutsy
fermented tang. That flavor comes from the pickled mustard greens known as ya
cai. This prized Sichuan foodstuff is made by sun-drying mustard stalks, rubbing
them with salt and applying spices and sugar, and allowing the stalks to ferment
for months. The most famous brand, Sichuan Yibin Suimi Yacai, comes in small
foil packages that you can buy online or in the refriger-
ated section of well-stocked Chinese markets. (Look for
“suimiyacai” as one word on the label, which means the
vegetable has been precut into rice grain–size pieces.)
Besides its traditional use in Sichuan specialities, ya cai
can bring deeply savory umami funk, a touch of warm
TO FREEZE A FRUIT PIE TO BAKE A FROZEN FRUIT PIE spice, and a slight sweetness to all sorts of dishes: Sauté a
Assemble pie but wait until you’re ready Do not thaw. Brush crust with egg wash tablespoon with garlic and ginger for your next stir-fry or
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE

to bake to apply any egg wash or sprin- and/or sprinkle with sugar as called for fried rice; toss a similar amount into a pan of sautéed baby
kling of sugar called for in recipe. Freeze in recipe and bake pie at temperature bok choy; or sprinkle a teaspoon over congee, lo mein,
pie, uncovered, until firm (to avoid specified in recipe, increasing baking or an Asian-inspired grain bowl. (Note: If you add
damaging crust while it’s still soft), then time by 10 to 15 minutes or until crust ya cai to a dish, reduce the salt in the recipe
wrap with double layer of plastic wrap is golden brown. If crust is browning by about one-quarter, and then check the
followed by aluminum foil and return it too fast, cover loosely with aluminum seasoning after the pickle is added.) –L.L.
to freezer. foil shield.

september & october 2020

31
 E Q U I P M E N T CO R N E R
j BY MIYE BROMBERG, RIDDLEY GEMPERLEIN−SCHIRM & LISA McMANUS g

Meat Pounders Smart Displays

Meat pounders are great for flattening boneless pieces of Because many people use smart displays as
meat or poultry into evenly thin cutlets so that they can kitchen helpers, we tested the latest ver-
cook through quickly and consistently. We tested eight sions of the Google Nest Hub Max and
models in a variety of styles: long-handled pounders, the Amazon Echo Show. Both have 10-inch
short-handled pounders, and double-headed meat mal- screens and operate by voice or touch. We
lets. The mallets were lightweight and easy to swing, but asked them the same 58 cooking-related
their square heads were too small to cover much food in questions of increasing complexity and
a single stroke, making it hard to pound the cutlets evenly; assessed how easy it was to communicate
worse, the corners of those heads dug into the food, H I G H LY with them, how accurate their answers RECOMMENDED
gouging it. Long-handled mallets were heavy and had large R E C O M M E N D E D were, and whether they provided reliable
GOOGLE Nest Hub Max
heads, so they flattened food well—but were uncomfort- sources. Both helped us keep shopping lists,
NORPRO Grip EZ PRICE: $229.00
able and unwieldy to use. In the end, we vastly preferred Meat Pounder set timers and reminders, and answered
the short-handled pounders, as they provided the perfect most of our cooking questions. However, it was easier to ask questions to and be
PRICE: $19.99
synthesis of power, coverage, and ease of use. Because understood by the Amazon device, while the Google model often provided more
their short handles kept our hands closer to the food, these models were the easi- complete, reliable information using its own search engine. (By contrast, Amazon
est to control. Our former favorite, the Norpro Grip EZ Meat Pounder (model too often cited customers or manufacturers on amazon.com, which gave us some
7033), won yet again. It’s heavy and large enough to flatten meat and poultry effi- hilarious but useless answers.) These smart, internet-linked devices’ abilities are con-
ciently without tearing holes, and its short handle is made of a rubbery material that tinually being updated and expanded. While we recommend both, if you plan to ask
makes it particularly easy to grip and direct. –M.B. for lots of cooking information, we prefer Google Nest Hub Max. –L.M.

Rotary Graters Squeeze Bottles

We often use a rasp-style grater to grate hard Once found only in restaurant kitchens and hot dog stands,
cheeses such as Parmesan and pecorino. But squeeze bottles have become increasingly common in home
rotary cheese graters can make the process easier, kitchens as well. They’re handy for storing oil, vinegar, and
faster, safer, and more efficient. To use most rotary other condiments and sauces and for dispensing them in
graters, you insert the food you want to grate into a precise, controlled manner. We wanted to know which
the hopper and close the lid. With one hand, you squeeze bottle was best, so we bought five widely available
press down on the lid so that the food is forced RECOMMENDED 16-ounce models, using each to store and pour different vol-
against a rotating drum studded with sharp teeth; umes of water, simple syrup, oil, ketchup, and vinaigrette. All
ZYLISS Classic Cheese
with your other hand, you turn a crank, rotating Grater the bottles performed well, but a few factors made certain
the drum and grating the food. It had been a while PRICE: $11.49
models easier to use than others. We preferred bottles H I G H LY
since we last tried these gadgets, so we tested six with wide mouths (canister openings), which facilitated fill- RECOMMENDED
new models, using each to grate different amounts of Parmesan. ing and cleanup; we also liked those that were made from
TABLECRAFT
Our favorite model, the Zyliss Classic Cheese Grater (model E900010U), was thin, flexible low-density polyethylene, as they were easier Widemouth
the speediest of the lot, consistently grating small mountains of cheese more than to squeeze. Finally, we preferred bottles that had simple Squeeze Bottles
twice as fast as our favorite rasp-style grater. It has a fairly large hopper that holds one-piece bottle tops; caps and extra parts were easy to PRICE: $9.16 for 6 bot-
plenty of cheese, and rubbery grips on its handle and crank make it especially lose and fussy to clean. Our favorite squeeze bottle is the tles ($1.53 per bottle)
comfortable to hold and operate. Better still, it’s compact enough to be brought to Tablecraft Widemouth Squeeze Bottle (model C11663C);
the table and safe for children to use; it’s also easy to store. And since its crank can it’s easy to fill, clean, and squeeze, and it comes in different sizes. If you really want a
be installed on either the left or the right side of its rotating drum, both lefties and cap to protect the contents of your bottle, Tablecraft also offers sets of “tethered”
righties can use it. –M.B. caps (model C100TA) that fit onto the bottle spouts. –M.B.

Air-Fryer Toaster Ovens H I G H LY

Since air fryers are essentially mini convection ovens, it’s no surprise that manufacturers are RECOMMENDED
adding air-frying functions to toaster ovens. We wanted to see how the food produced by
these air-fryer toaster ovens compared with the food made in our top-rated air fryer, the BREVILLE Smart
Oven Air
Philips TurboStar Airfryer, Avance Digital, and our top-rated toaster oven, the Breville Smart
PRICE: $399.95
Oven. We bought seven air-fryer toaster ovens and used them to toast bread slices; make
broiled asparagus and roast chicken; and air-fry frozen french fries, homemade french fries, and chicken Parmesan. Our
favorite air-fryer toaster oven, the Breville Smart Oven Air (model BOV900), is great for those looking to air-fry for
four people (our favorite air fryer is good for two servings). It produced excellent toast and broiled asparagus, a golden
roast chicken, and crispy french fries and chicken Parmesan. It was intuitive to use and, aside from the included air-fryer
basket, it looked like and functioned almost identically to our favorite regular toaster oven. –R.G.S.

Complete results available at CooksIllustrated.com/OCT20

cook’s illustrated
32
 INDEX
September & October 2020

M AI N DI S HE S
Chana Masala 11
Dan Dan Mian (Sichuan Noodles
with Chili Sauce and Pork) 7
[FOR TWO: ONLINE]
Farro and Broccoli Rabe Gratin 9
Grilled Boneless Beef Short Ribs 5
Lahmajun (Armenian Flatbread) 15
Poulet au Vinaigre (Chicken with
Vinegar) 8
Grilled Boneless Beef Short Ribs 5 [FOR TWO: ONLINE] Dan Dan Mian 7

Xihóngshì Chao Jidàn (Chinese

Stir-Fried Tomatoes and Eggs) 12
Asian Mushrooms
Mycophilia runs deep in culinary traditions throughout
S I DE DI S H E S
Asia, at least as far back as the cultivation of SHIITAKES
in China and Japan more than 1,000 years ago. Top-quality Arroz con Titoté (Colombian
donko shiitakes boast cracked brims and umami depth. Coconut Rice) 21
Prized MATSUTAKES fetch as much as $2,200 per Hung Kao Mun Gati (Thai Coconut
pound. Their cinnamony, piney aroma is so intense that just Rice) 20
one can infuse an entire pot of rice with flavor. Petal-like
OYSTER mushrooms are typically torn apart and seared; S A LA D S
they’re related to—but barely resemble—stocky KING Chana Masala 11 Cucumber-Tomato Salad 15 Poulet au Vinaigre (Chicken with Vinegar) 8
OYSTERS (or king trumpets), which hold up well to grill-
Horiatiki Salata (Hearty Greek
ing and tempura frying. Jelly fungi, such as WOOD EARS
Salad) 19
and SILVER EARS (or snow mushrooms), are often
[FOR TWO: ONLINE]
sold dried but turn slippery and crisp when rehydrated in
soups, stir-fries, and salads. Milky-white ENOKITAKES
(or enoki) are cooked lightly to avoid breaking their B R EA D
delicate stems. NAMEKO caps glisten with a gelatinous Bhature 11
film that adds body to soups and sauces. MAITAKES (or
hens of the woods) form as frilly, leaf-shaped fruit bodies. S AU CE S
Silky, domed PADDY STRAWS are the third-most-con- Kimchi-Scallion Sauce 5
sumed mushroom worldwide; they are often eaten from Preserved Lemon–Almond Sauce 5
bowls of the Thai coconut soup tom kha gai. SHIMEJI Xihóngshì Chao Jidàn 12 Horiatiki Salata (Hearty Greek Salad) 19
(or beech) mushrooms can be brown or white. They taste
DIY
unpalatably bitter when raw but mellow when stir-fried.
Home-Cured Bacon 17
Spicy Ginger Syrup 31

D ES S ERT
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To sign up, visit ATKkids.com⁄CI. Lahmajun (Armenian Flatbread) 15 Arroz con Titoté (Colombian Coconut Rice) 21

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Farro and Broccoli Rabe Gratin 9 Spicy Ginger Syrup 31 Yellow Sheet Cake with Chocolate Frosting 25

BACK COVER ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN BURGOYNE PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE, CARL TREMBLAY; STYLING: CHANTAL LAMBETH, ASHLEY MOORE