BP809ET: Cosmetic Science Unit IV- Cosmetic Evaluation
Sebumeter
Sebumeter is a tool to measure sebum (oil) on skin, scalp and hair.
Principle
The measurement is based on grease spot photometry. The opaque tape of the
Sebumeter is brought into contact with skin or hair. It becomes transparent in
relation to the amount of sebum on the surface of the measurement area.
When the tape is inserted into the aperture of the device, the transparency is
measured by a photocell. The light transmission reflects the sebum content.
Applications
• It is used for clinical studies and the monitoring of the course of skin changes.
• For claim support and efficacy testing of all kinds of cosmetics especially
cleansers, anti-acne products, shampoos and hair care, products for oily skin.
Advantages
• The special tape detects only oil and is not influenced by moisture.
• A spring in the measuring head provides constant pressure on the skin.
• The low weight cassette permits convenient measurements at all body sites.
• One measurement cartridge lasts for approx. 400 measurements.
• The accuracy of the Sebumeter can easily be checked any time.
Corneometer
Corneometer is a device used to measure the hydration level of the stratum
corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. It works by sending a weak electrical
current through the skin and measuring the resistance, which provides an
indication of the skin’s hydration level. The device is commonly used in
dermatology and cosmetic research to evaluate the effectiveness of moisturizing
products.
Principle
The principle involved in a Corneometer is based on electrical conductance. The
device measures the electrical conductance of the stratum corneum, which is
directly proportional to the skin’s hydration level. When the skin is hydrated, its
electrical conductance increases due to the presence of water molecules that
conduct electricity. The Corneometer sends a weak electrical current through the
skin and measures the resistance to the current, which is then used to calculate
the skin’s hydration level. This measurement is non-invasive and provides a quick
and accurate assessment of the skin’s hydration status.
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BP809ET: Cosmetic Science Unit IV- Cosmetic Evaluation
Applications
Dermatology: to evaluate the hydration level of the skin and monitor the
effectiveness of skin treatments and moisturizing products.
Cosmetics and personal care: to test the efficacy of cosmetic and skincare
products, such as moisturizers, and to monitor changes in skin hydration after
product application.
Research: to study the impact of various factors on skin hydration, such as
environmental conditions, diet, and medications.
Clinical trials: to provide objective measurements of skin hydration levels in
clinical trials of new cosmetic and skincare products.
Advantages
Non-invasive: The Corneometer measures skin hydration without breaking the
skin, making it a safe and painless method of evaluation.
Quick and easy to use: The measurement process is quick and simple, taking
just a few seconds to obtain a reading.
High accuracy: The Corneometer provides a highly accurate measurement of
skin hydration, making it a reliable tool for clinical and research purposes.
Repeatable: The readings obtained using a Corneometer are repeatable,
allowing for consistent and reliable measurements over time.
Portable: The compact size and battery-operated design of many Corneometers
make them portable, allowing for measurements to be taken in various settings,
such as a dermatologist’s office, a cosmetic laboratory, or a clinical trial site.
Disadvantages
Limited scope: The Corneometer only measures the hydration level of the
stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, and does not provide
information about deeper skin layers or overall skin health.
Operator-dependent: The accuracy of the measurement can be affected by the
operator’s technique, such as the pressure applied to the skin during
measurement, which can cause variations in the reading.
Environmental factors: The hydration level of the skin can be affected by
environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, and exposure to water or
other liquids, which can affect the accuracy of the readings.
Cost: Corneometers can be expensive, particularly for high-end models with
advanced features, making them less accessible for some users.
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BP809ET: Cosmetic Science Unit IV- Cosmetic Evaluation
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) is a measure of the amount of water that
evaporates through the skin’s surface. It can be measured using a speciali zed
device called a TEWL meter. TEWL is an important measure of skin barrier function
and can be used to assess the efficacy of moisturizers or other skin care products.
Principle of TEWL meter
The TEWL meter consists of a hollow cylinder probe with two pairs of sensors for
measuring temperature and relative humidity.
The sensors measure density of water/ moisture at two different sites (density
gradient) from which the TEWL is calculated and expressed as evaporation rate
using the equation-
dm/dt = (D x A)x dp/dx
Where:
A = surface in m 2,
m = water transported (in g),
t = time (h),
D = diffusion constant (=0.0877 g/m/h (mm Hg),
p = vapour pressure of the atmosphere (mm Hg),
x = distance from skin to point of measurement (m).
Applications of TEWL meter
Dermatology: TEWL meters are used to evaluate skin conditions such as
eczema, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis, and to monitor the effectiveness of
topical treatments.
Cosmetics and personal care products: TEWL measurements are used to
evaluate the efficacy of moisturizers, barrier creams, and other skin care
products.
Pharmaceuticals: TEWL meters are used in the development and testing of new
topical drugs to assess their ability to improve skin barrier function.
Environmental studies: TEWL measurements can be used to study the effects
of environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, and wind on the skin.
Occupational health and safety: TEWL meters are used to evaluate the
potential impact of workplace conditions such as exposure to chemicals or cold
environments on skin health.
Personal care and wellness: TEWL measurements can be used by individuals
to assess the effectiveness of their skin care regimen and monitor changes in
skin health over time.
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BP809ET: Cosmetic Science Unit IV- Cosmetic Evaluation
Advantages of TEWL meter
Non-invasive: TEWL meters are non-invasive, which means they do not
penetrate the skin, making them safe and painless to use.
Quantitative measure: TEWL meters provide a quantitative measure of skin
barrier function, allowing for precise and objective assessments.
Repeatable: TEWL measurements are repeatable, which means that the same
results can be obtained under the same conditions.
Portable: TEWL meters are compact and portable, allowing for measurements to
be taken in a variety of settings, including clinics, research labs, and at home.
Fast and easy to use: TEWL meters are fast and easy to use, making them
accessible to a wide range of users.
Versatile: TEWL meters can be used to evaluate a wide range of skin types and
conditions, including normal, dry, and damaged skin.
Cost-effective: TEWL meters are relatively low-cost compared to other methods
of assessing skin barrier function, making them accessible to a wide range of
users.
Disadvantages of TEWL meter
TEWL meters have several disadvantages, including:
Interference from environmental factors: TEWL measurements can be
affected by environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, and wind,
which can lead to variations in results.
Operator dependence: TEWL measurements can be affected by the operator’s
technique, including the pressure applied to the skin, which can lead to
variations in results.
Limited assessment of the skin: TEWL meters only provide information about
the skin’s water permeability, and do not provide information about other
aspects of skin health, such as hydration levels or skin thickness.
Equipment dependency: TEWL meters require specialized equipment and
technical expertise, which can limit their availability and accessibility in some
settings.
Calibration requirements: TEWL meters require regular calibration to ensure
accurate results, which can add to their cost and maintenance requirements.
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BP809ET: Cosmetic Science Unit IV- Cosmetic Evaluation
Measurement of Hair tensile strength
Hair tensile strength refers to the amount of force required to break a strand of
hair, and it is a measure of the hair’s strength and resistance to damage. There are
several methods to measure hair tensile strength, including:
1. Pull test
In this method, a strand of hair is clamped at one end and pulled on the other end
until it breaks. The force required to break the hair is recorded and used to calculate
the tensile strength. Here is a general outline of the procedure:
i. Sample preparation: A single strand of hair is selected and any tangles or knots are
removed. The hair is then clamped at one end using a hair clamp or a similar device.
ii. Applying the load: The other end of the hair is attached to a tensile testing
machine, which applies a controlled force to the hair. The force is increased gradually
until the hair breaks.
iii. Recording the results: The force required to break the hair is recorded and used to
calculate the tensile strength of the hair. The tensile strength can be expressed in
units of force per unit of cross-sectional area, such as Newtons per square millimeter
(N/mm2).
iv. Data analysis: The results from the pull test can be used to compare the tensile
strength of different hair samples or to evaluate the effects of different treatments on
hair strength. The data can be analyzed statistically to determine the mean, standard
deviation, and other descriptive statistics.
2. Three-point bending test
This method involves clamping a strand of hair at two points and applying a load to
the middle point. The force required to break the hair is recorded and used to
calculate the tensile strength. Here is a general outline of the procedure:
i. Sample preparation: A single strand of hair is selected and any tangles or knots are
removed. The hair is then clamped at two points, equidistant from the middle of the
hair.
ii. Applying the load: A load is applied to the middle of the hair using a tensile testing
machine or a similar device. The force is increased gradually until the hair breaks.
iii. Recording the results: The force required to break the hair is recorded and used to
calculate the tensile strength of the hair. The tensile strength can be expressed in
units of force per unit of cross-sectional area, such as Newtons per square millimeter
(N/mm2).
iv. Data analysis: The results from the three-point bending test can be used to
compare the tensile strength of different hair samples or to evaluate the effects of
different treatments on hair strength. The data can be analyzed statistically to
determine the mean, standard deviation, and other descriptive statistics.
3. Torsion test
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BP809ET: Cosmetic Science Unit IV- Cosmetic Evaluation
In this method, a strand of hair is twisted until it breaks, and the force required to
break the hair is recorded and used to calculate the tensile strength. Here is a general
outline of the procedure:
i. Sample preparation: A single strand of hair is selected and any tangles or knots are
removed. The hair is then clamped at one end using a hair clamp or a similar device.
ii. Applying the load: The other end of the hair is attached to a tensile testing
machine, which applies a controlled twisting force to the hair. The force is increased
gradually until the hair breaks.
iii. Recording the results: The force required to break the hair is recorded and used to
calculate the tensile strength of the hair. The tensile strength can be expressed in
units of torque per unit of cross-sectional area, such as Newton meters per square
millimeter (Nm/mm2).
iv. Data analysis: The results from the torsion test can be used to compare the tensile
strength of different hair samples or to evaluate the effects of different treatments on
hair strength. The data can be analyzed statistically to determine the mean, standard
deviation, and other descriptive statistics.
It is important to note that hair tensile strength can be influenced by several
factors, such as the age of the hair, the structure of the hair, and the presence of
any damage or chemical treatments.
