Growing

Guide
How to Plan, Plant, Harvest and Store Your Survival Garden

SURVIVALGARDENSEEDS. COM
Survival Seed Vaults
When you buy one of our survival seed vaults, you are on your way to
creating a self-sustaining garden. Your specially curated packet of
seeds is designed to give you a variety of seeds to meet your particular
needs. These seeds will grow well and produce a harvest that can be
stored to feed you and your family. With these heirloom, non-hybrid,
non-GMO seeds, you can also save your seeds to plant next season.

Growing from seed allows you to have a greater variety of vegetables.

It also allows you to start the seeds indoors and plan the perfect time
to plant outdoors. This guide will give you an overview of the best
gardening practices to get you up and growing in the simplest way
possible.

The individual seed packets will give you specific instructions for each
variety. With a little bit of planning, you will have a successful
experience.

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The Best Spot for Your Garden
Just like purchasing real estate, gardening is all about the location. You
can change and control so many things, but location is where it all starts.

Choose a spot that gets plenty of light.

Sunlight is the primary consideration for your garden location. Most

fruits and vegetables need at least 8 hours of sunshine to produce,
especially if they create a fruiting body. Without adequate light, your
plants will not thrive.

Spend time noting where the shade lands in your desired location. It
doesn’t have to be sunny all day, but if you have a choice, morning sun
with afternoon shade is best. If you’re growing indoors, choose a
south-facing window and consider supplementing with grow lights if
your plants don’t get enough light.

If your spot gets less than 8 hours, there are still options as long as
you get at least 4-6 hours of sunlight. These plants may take longer to
produce with lower light levels, so be patient. Shade tolerant options
include salad greens, leafy greens, cole crops, root crops, and leafy
herbs.

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Choose a location that is easy to access.

If you choose a location that is hard to get to, it will be harder to tend
your garden, and it will be easier to neglect your plants. Out of sight,
out of mind. Keeping a watchful eye on your garden helps with pest
and disease control and consistent watering. Choose somewhere close
to your home and anything you might need, like water sources.

Soil
Good garden soil consists of the right soil texture, soil structure, pH, and
organic matter. Great soil is the foundation for healthy, disease-resistant
plants.

Soil texture refers to the size of particles. Soil structure refers to how
it clumps together.

Sand has bigger particles and drains easily. Sandy soil will drain too
quickly for the plants to absorb enough water. Clay particles are tiny
and compact into dense, heavy soil that can retain too much water
and drown or smother the roots. The ideal soil clumps together when
squeezed in your hand but easily falls apart when you poke at it.

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Adding compost and organic materials and working them in can
improve the texture and structure of your soil, whether it’s sandy or
clay. The nutrients will encourage the growth of micro-organisms that
give you rich fertile soil. Mulching the soil surface creates a layer that
will slowly break down over time. These steps also will help you to
achieve soil with a neutral pH.

Soil pH tells you how acidic or basic the soil is. Most plants prefer
neutral soil. You can test your soil pH with a testing kit from a garden
center, or you can contact your local Cooperative Extension Service to
test your soil for a fee. Your local extension will provide detailed
information about your soil’s pH, texture, and composition. They will
also inform you of any possible contamination like heavy metals.

Once you know more about your soil, you can make amendments for
a healthier growing environment. Lime and bone meal can help raise
your soil’s pH if it’s too acidic. Sphagnum peat moss, nitrogen,
elemental sulfur, and other additives can lower it if it’s too alkaline.
Always follow instructions on how to use soil amendments for the
best results.

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Growing Medium for Containers
Garden soil is not a good choice for container gardens. The growing
medium for containers needs to be light, fluffy, and well-draining,
while still providing enough moisture for plants to grow and flourish.
Good potting mixes are made with this in mind, and may not contain
any actual soil at all. They are a blend of organic and other materials
including compost, coconut coir, sphagnum moss, perlite, and
vermiculite. Potting soil is also sterile, which keeps bugs and fungus
out of your containers. If you are in a situation where you have a
limited supply, potting soil can be sterilized with steam or in an oven if
necessary.

Water
Plants need water to move nutrients through the plant and to
perform photosynthesis. Consistent watering helps plants thrive.
Overly wet soil will encourage fungus and slugs. If the soil is too dry,
your plants will be stressed.

The general rule of thumb is that vegetable gardens need an inch of

water total per week, but not all at once.

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 If the soil is dry more than 1 inch down, it is time to water. Water
enough that it soaks in about 6 inches.
Apply water directly to the roots. Watering the roots allows the
soil to absorb the water slowly, conserving soil nutrients and
minimizing evaporation or runoff.
Drip irrigation systems are watering systems designed to
water roots efficiently and easily. Drip irrigation can be as
simple as a soaker hose or as complex as an entire kit with
hoses, nozzles, sprinklers, and tubes to deliver water to your
plants.
If you have rows, you can set the hose to a low flow and let
the water slowly run down the row and soak in.
Early morning watering is best for less evaporation. If leaves get
wet, they can dry out during the day.
If leaves droop during a hot day, that doesn’t necessarily mean the
plant needs water. Always check the soil first to prevent
waterlogging your plants.
To make the most of your water supply, consider using rain barrels or
other water catchment systems. These methods of capturing water
are easy to set up and can provide you with a reliable water source
even in times of rationing.

Soil Cultivation and Tilling

For plants to thrive, air, nutrients, and water need to penetrate deeply
throughout. Cultivation is the process of breaking up compacted soil. Deep
cultivation on heavily compacted soil may be necessary. You can do this
with a rototiller or other means.

Surface cultivation. If you are adding compost or fertilizers, some

shallow cultivation will help you work these amendments into the soil.
Surface cultivation is also appropriate for loose soil that has

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crusted over, especially as you prepare your garden for new crops.
Break up the top few inches of soil to mix in any soil amendments.
Earthworms and microorganisms can help you fully integrate any
nutrients deeper into the soil. Don’t cultivate when the soil is wet, as
the soil can clump together and become even more compacted.

Double dig method. If you are starting with very poor soil, you may
need to use the double dig method to break up the soil. This involves
digging deep enough (18 to 22 inches) to bring up the topsoil and add
organic material to the subsoil.

Dig a trench the depth and width that you want in your garden row.
Place the topsoil in a pile. Then add organic material into the trench
you have dug. Dig this material into the subsoil, mixing and aerating as
you go, then add your topsoil and mix the two thoroughly. Avoid
walking on the areas you’ve broken up to prevent compacting the soil.
This method creates a deeper level of fertile topsoil.

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Single dig method. Dig the length of the shovel, about 9 to 12 inches.
Like the double dig method, you will place organic material in the
trench and then cover it with the topsoil.

No-till farming. To decrease soil erosion and improve soil quality, no-
till methods are gaining popularity. If your soil is good quality and not
very compacted, choosing a no-till method allows you to retain soil
nutrients and protect the helpful ecosystems within the soil. One
method is to use brown cardboard or newspapers (black print only) on
the planned garden area, then cover that with organic mulch and
wood chips. Over time this will break down, creating fertile soil that
will not need digging. Cover crops can also be used for no-till farming.
In this case, the new crops would be directly seeded into the
decomposing residue of the previous plant matter.

By creating rows and pathways, you can avoid walking on the growing
area and keep the soil full of air and micro-organisms. This will reduce
your need to till and improve your soil, year after year.

Direct Sow or Transplant?

The choice of whether to start seeds indoors or direct sow them outside
often varies from crop to crop. Consult the back of your seed packets for
individual recommendations.

When you start seeds indoors, you can control heat and light to create
the ideal growing conditions for your seedlings, no matter what the
weather is outside. You will also get a jump on the growing season.
This is extremely helpful for seeds with a long growing season and
gardeners in areas with shorter growing seasons.

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Some seeds do better when directly sown outdoors. Carrots, beets,
and other root vegetables have a taproot that can easily be disturbed,
damaging the plant. Corn, okra, and beans are also difficult to
transplant. These can be planted directly into the soil in the spring or
fall as appropriate

Starting Seeds Indoors

Following a few basic guidelines can help you have a successful seed-
growing experience.

Start with clean pots, trays, or flats. If you are reusing containers,
make sure you clean them with a bleach solution of 10% bleach to the
water. Allow the pots to sit for 30 minutes.

Seeds need warmth and light, so you will need to have a place where
you can control the temperature and use grow lights.

Use a good growing medium that is appropriate for containers. It

should be fine, loose, and well-draining. Mist the soil and follow the
planting instructions on the seed packet.

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Keep the soil moist by misting or bottom watering. Do not overwater.
Keep the soil moist, but not overly wet. A clear dome placed over the
container can keep the humidity high until the seeds start to sprout.
Don’t put a dome in direct sunlight as it will get too hot. When the
seeds sprout, you can remove the dome.

Once your seedlings start to develop true leaves, they’re nearing the
transplanting stage. Consult your seed packets for precise information
about when your seedlings are ready to harden off before
transplanting. The tender seedlings need time to adjust to the harsher
outdoor conditions. 1 to 2 weeks before transplanting, start
acclimating your young plants to their new home. Place them outside
for just a few hours a day in a sheltered spot out of direct sunlight. If it
is windy or too cold, keep them inside. Slowly extend the amount of
time they spend outdoors and increase their exposure to light.
Eventually, they will be able to spend the night outside.

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Extending the Growing Season
There are many ways to grow vegetables and herbs for a longer season.

The more you plant, the more you can grow. Many gardeners also do
a second round of plantings right as their summer garden begins to
fade.

Intercropping is mixing the slow-growing crops with faster-growing

plants. By planting this way, you can fit more vegetables into your
garden. For example, dill and cilantro will sprout up quickly next to
plants that take longer to grow, like broccoli and cabbage.

Succession planting is a way to stagger your harvest. This allows you

to have a continual crop instead of all the plants being ripe at the
same time. For succession planting, don’t plant all your seeds on the
same day; rather, wait a few weeks between planting. Stagger
plantings from 7 to 21 days. This way, you can enjoy seven heads of
cabbage that don’t all need to be harvested simultaneously.

Don’t forget about cool weather gardens that can be grown in spring
or fall. Radishes, spinach, and many cruciferous vegetables do well in
cool weather and can give you yields in late fall or even throughout
winter and spring. If you live in an area with a very warm climate, you
may find that seeds that wilted in your warm summers perform better
in autumn, as the temperatures begin to cool.

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In the spring and fall, when cold snaps can damage your plants,
makeshift greenhouses and covers can protect your harvest and
extend the growing season. Covering your crops with sheets or
lightweight blankets on nights when there is frost can protect plants.
You can also plan ahead and have row covers that can be rolled out
over hoops.

Weed Control
Weeds are easier to manage if you can get ahead of the problem with
prevention. A barrier to block their growth works well. When you are
planning your garden, consider using landscape fabric. You can cut
holes where you want to plant and keep weeds from growing
everywhere else.

Mulch is another way to smother weeds. Untreated wood chips,

shredded leaves, cardboard, paper, and straw all make good mulch for
gardens. Use mulch on garden paths as well. Any bare spot is an
invitation for weeds to grow.

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Pulling weeds when they are small is easier than digging out a full-
grown weed. When you pull weeds, make sure you get the whole
root. Keeping your garden weed-free also helps you to keep out pests
and diseases.

Controlling Pests
You’re not the only one who wants to eat your vegetables! Careful
daily watching helps to keep pests away. Pay attention to signs of
nibbling or visits and take action quickly. Depending on your location,
you may need fencing to keep out rabbits, deer, or other animals.
Covering your plants with insect netting over hoops can also keep
birds, squirrels, and insects from taking over your garden.

Caterpillars, worms, and bugs can all be picked off when noticed, so
look early and regularly on the leaves of plants. Check underneath the
leaves for eggs and wipe them off. Duct tape is a helpful tool to pick
eggs off leaves.

Companion planting is an excellent, non-toxic way to deter pests and

attract beneficial pollinators to your garden. Flowers and herbs are
generally good to add to your garden, and some are especially good
pest deterrents. Marigold, rosemary, sage, nasturtium, mint, lavender,
and basil are all good choices to add to your garden.

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There are some low-toxic chemicals you can use to control pests, too.
Two examples are Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) and neem oil. Whenever
using any form of chemical pest control, follow the instructions
exactly. Remember these chemicals can also harm beneficial insects,
so you may want to save them as a last resort.

Controlling Disease
Your best bet for disease control is prevention. Following seed
growing instructions is important as it allows you to establish your
plants and get them off to a healthy start. Keep your garden free of
weeds and remove any diseased plants you do find immediately to
protect your healthy plants. Mulching keeps the soil and your plants
well protected. Don’t overwater your plants and make sure you’ve got
good drainage. You also want to make sure you’re not overwatering
your plants. Trellising climbing plants keep the fruits off of the ground
and allow for good air circulation. Crop rotation is also an important
part of disease control.

Crop Rotation
Ideally, you should only plant the same crop in the same place once
every 3 years. This extends to other plants in the same family, too.
The most important plant families to rotate are the brassica family
(kale, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts) the cucurbit
family (cucumbers, gourds, melons, pumpkins, squash), and
nightshades (eggplant, potato, pepper, tomato, tomatillo).

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Crop rotation is extremely helpful for keeping pests and diseases at
bay. If you plant the same type of plant in an area, a buildup of pests
and diseases that target that plant family is likely. Crop rotation also
prevents soil depletion. By planting a different type of plant every
year, the soil can replenish lost stores from heavy feeding naturally.

Harvest
Harvesting your produce is the most rewarding part of gardening. To
truly enjoy the flavors of your garden, it’s important to know when a
vegetable is at its prime. A little trial and error will help you figure out
the right time to harvest. Most vegetables are ready for harvest when
they reach a size and tenderness you can use. If your plant is ready to
harvest, don’t delay. You will sacrifice both flavor and texture as the
fruits get larger and go to seed.

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Although you’ll quickly learn when to harvest your plants, here are
some general guidelines to go by. Okra is best when it is just 2-3
inches long. Cucumbers, radishes, and summer squash are also best
when they are young and tender. Melons need to be harvested at the
peak of freshness when they slip off the vine easily. Watermelon
tendrils turn brown and die off before harvest. Green beans are ready
to harvest when the seeds inside the pod are not full size to prevent
the pods from becoming stringy and tough. Dry beans and cowpeas,
however, can be allowed to fully mature and even dry on the vine. On
the other hand, tomatoes have the most flavor when allowed to fully
ripen on the vine, but they also can be stored on the counter a bit
longer if picked a little early. Winter squash should be fully ripened on
the vine as well. Many green leafy vegetables and herbs can be
harvested continuously, cutting a few leaves as needed.

Storing Your Harvest

Long-term food storage is one of the biggest benefits and goals of a
survival garden. Depending on the vegetable or fruit, there are many
methods of preserving your harvest. Preserve your vegetables as
quickly as possible after harvesting to preserve peak freshness and
flavor.

Freezing. This is one of the simplest and easiest ways to extend your
harvest, but it does require access to a freezer. Most vegetables need
to be blanched in boiling water for a few seconds and then plunged
into cold water to stop the cooking process before freezing. By
blanching your vegetables, you remove any dirt or organisms, halt the
decay process and also preserve color, flavor, and nutrients.
Tomatoes, onions, and potatoes do not need to be blanched

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before freezing but don’t forget to clean them first. Herbs can be
frozen whole or in ice cube trays mixed with water or oil.

Drying. Dried vegetables and herbs are lightweight and portable,

perfect for adding to your bug-out bag or travel supplies. They allow
you to add some flavor and nutrition to your soups and dishes year-
round. Carrots, broccoli, green leafy vegetables, celery, and onions can
all be dehydrated. Peppers and tomatoes can be sundried or
dehydrated. Drying herbs is easy and adds flavor all year. Vacuuming
packing these foods allows them to last longer, as exposure to air and
moisture increases the chances of spoilage.

Canning. Hot water bath canning is only appropriate for high acid
foods like pickles and fruit, including jams, jellies, and preserves to
prevent botulism. All low acid vegetables need to be canned at higher
temperatures in a pressure canner. Tomatoes are a borderline acid
food, so any tomatoes should have citric acid or bottled lemon juice
added if you are using a hot water bath method. Otherwise, pressure
can your tomatoes to be safe.

Fermenting and pickling. Many vegetables are delicious fermented or

pickled. Beets, okra, carrots, radishes, peppers, watermelon rinds, and
cucumbers are all excellent options. Cabbage can be made into
sauerkraut or kimchi for long-term storage.

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Seed Saving for the Future
When you grow heirloom, non-GMO seeds, you can enjoy a delicious
harvest and save the seeds for future crops. Your Survival Garden
Seeds set you on a path to continue being self-sufficient for years.

Each Survival Garden Seed package contains instructions for saving

that individual seed variety. The basic method of seed saving is to
allow the vegetable to “go to seed.” Leave some vegetables on the
vine and allow them to finish their development cycle. Ideally, these
will come from your healthiest and most productive plants. When the
vegetable seeds have fully developed, you’ll remove the seeds from
the flesh and pulp. Clean and allow to dry completely. Then store in a
cool, dry, and dark place. Remember to label your seeds with both
variety and year, so you know which to use first.

You’re on your way to an exciting growing adventure. Remember that

growing a garden takes patience and time. Keep an open mind, and
learn from your mistakes. You can do this! These gardening basics will
provide you with a foundation for creating a thriving, healthy survival
garden that will bring you peace of mind, delicious food, and
satisfaction in a job well done.

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 non-gmo heirloom seeds
for your home garden

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