TA RT I F L E T T E

U N C OV E R T H E S TO RY O F
AN ALPINE SPECIALITY

£ 5 . 2 5 • W I NTE R 2 02 4

F ROM P O L I S H C H R I S TM A S TO P E R S I A N N E W Y E A R ,
E X P LO R E T H E WO R L D ’ S B E S T S H A R E D D I N I N G E X P E R I E N C E S

SEAFOOD STORY SPICE IT UP CULINARY CAPITAL

TAST E T HE BO UN T Y E NJ OY A FA MI LY M EA L SAVO U R TH E FL AVOU RS
OF TASMANIA’S IN ST VI N CE NT & O F STO C K H O L M O N A
WIND SWE PT C OAST TH E GR EN A DI NE S FOOD -FOCUSED BREAK

N ATI O N A LG EO G R A PH I C .COM / TR AV E L
SPARKLING WATERS AND
SPECTACULAR VIEWS

www.montenegro.travel
 CONTENTS
ISSUE 26, WINTER 2024

48
TA SM A N I A
Taste the coastal bounty of
this Australian island, including
sea urchins, abalone and more

56
TA RTI FLE T TE
Discover the surprisingly
modern story of the cheese-
laden comfort food that’s
become an apres-ski classic

64
B RE A KI N G
B RE A D
Share a family meal on the
Grenadine island of Bequia,
featuring fried fish patties
and fragrant goat curry

36
FE A STS
IMAGE: YUKI SUGIURA

Celebrations to travel for, from Persian

New Year to Swedish Midsummer
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 3
CONTENTS
ISSUE 26, WINTER 2024

Starters
10 | TRY IT NOW Clarified cocktails
13 | WHAT THEY’RE EATING IN Dubai
14 | SPOTLIGHT The best smokeries
in the UK
16 | NUMBER CRUNCHING Cheese
17 | MAKE PERFECT Stollen
19 | MEET THE MAKER A chocolate
producer in Sicily
21 | WINE Sherry
22 | MY LIFE IN FOOD Oscar-winning
actor Da’Vine Joy Randolph
25 | RECIPE JOURNAL Rice dishes

22
32 | THE PIONEER Catalonian chef
Andrés Torres

88

19 72
IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; ARNOLD POSCHL; SUSANNA BLÅVARG; GETTY

On the cover Features Regulars Recipes

72 | CITY BREAK How to 82 | BOOKS Tim Anderson 26 | Rijstevlaai
spend a weekend eating on the unique cuisine of 27 | Onigiri
and drinking your way Hokkaido, Japan 29 | Black rice with black cardamom
around the Swedish 88 | NEW RELEASES Five of 39 | Forest mushroom soup
capital, Stockholm the best new cookbooks 41 | Souvlaki
78 | ON LOCATION 90 | REVIEWS Restaurant 61 | Tartiflette
Independent markets, openings around the UK 84 | Hakodate pork curry
Shekerbura, a Nowruz restaurants and delis in 98 | ON THE TABLE What 85 | Chamen
staple. Image: Azerbaijan the vibrant Somerset we’ve been enjoying in 87 | Zangi
Tourism Board town of Frome the world of food 89 | Artichoke cream soup

4 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
CONTRIBUTORS
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Editor: Nicola Trup Digital Marketing Manager:
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National Geographic Partners International Publishing

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International Editions 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC
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cinnamon, vanilla and Editorial Director:
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curry leaves are plucked Editor: returns 27% of its proceeds to the
Ren Behan from hillside gardens to Leigh Mitnick nonprofit National Geographic
Society to fund work in the areas of
I take pride in my Polish flavour delicious home- Editors: science, exploration, conservation
CHINA Sophie Huang and education.
heritage, which is rooted in cooked food on the island GERMANY Werner Siefer
ITALY Marco Cattaneo National Geographic Traveller
strong cultural traditions of Bequia in St Vincent & LATIN AMERICA Alicia Guzman (UK) is trusted for its independent
and deep family values. the Grenadines. Dishes NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue and impartial advice. Our writers
POLAND Agnieszka Franus and photographers often receive
The Christmas Eve feast here — including goat SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim support from the likes of tourist
SPAIN Josan Ruiz boards, tour operators, hotels and
is my favourite meal of curry, lime-zested fried airlines. However, there is never any
the year, so I loved sharing jackfish and coconut-laced guarantee of positive coverage. Any
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Poland’s festive dishes, callaloo soup — sing of will always be clearly labelled.
inspired by the forest, land, Caribbean sunshine Copyright © 2024 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
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National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.
our sense of community B R E A K I N G B R E A D, P. 6 4
and hospitality.
C OV E R S TO RY, P. 3 6

6 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Dedicated to the world
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 Editor’s letter
ISSUE 26, WINTER 2024

Feasting means different things to different people — at least when it comes to the menu.
While a traditionally British Christmas meal means turkey and all the trimmings, in
Finland it’s roast ham, smoked fish, pickled beetroot salad and veggie casseroles, and in
Goa, you can expect sorpotel, a spicy pork stew. The one constant, though, is that food
is there to be shared.
Feasts take place year-round, though, not just at Christmas. So, while our cover story
does feature Poland’s festive spread (a meat-free array of soups, fish dishes and desserts),
we’ve also selected some of the world’s best communal dining experiences taking place
throughout the year. Burns Night in Scotland, Swedish Midsummer and Nowruz, the
Persian New Year, all make an appearance — along with recommendations from our
writers on where to celebrate them.
So, whatever your dining plans this season — and winter is certainly a time that lends
itself to indulgence — get some inspiration for your next feast, be it at home or further
afield. I know I’ll be making Ren Behan’s forest mushroom soup (see recipe, p.39) this
winter, but I’m also looking ahead to next summer, when I hope to don my floral crown
and dance around the maypole under the midnight sun with some new Swedish friends.
All I need now is an invitation.

Nicola Trup, editor

N AT G E O T R AV E L U K

T O S U B S C R I B E , V I S I T: S U B S C R I P T I O N S . N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . C O . U K

W H AT ’ S O N LI N E AT N ATI O N A LG E O G R A PH I C .C OM / TR AV E L

Roll with it Pub grub Sweet escape

The story behind the Philly Raise a glass — and a fork — to the pubs Try Paris’s best macarons,
cheesesteak and how it became serving top-class food, including a whether they’re classic versions,
IMAGE: GETTY

synonymous with the City of Lancashire hotspot and a Cornish or experimental creations
Brotherly Love. boozer with live-fire cooking. containing caviar or wasabi.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 9
10 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S TA RT E R S

TRY IT N OW

Clarified
cocktails
MIXO LO G I S T S ARE U S I N G
AN ARR AY O F SU RPRI S I N G
I N G RED I ENT S TO M AK E D RI N K S
THAT ARE C LE AR A S G L A S S

There’s a new drinks trend in town. Or, rather, an old

drinks trend is making a comeback. Clarification has
its roots in 17th-century Britain — clarified milk punch
was made by adding milk to a citrussy, boozy mixture
that was then left to curdle before being filtered through
a cheesecloth. The result was a less acidic concoction
that lasted longer without refrigeration. Now, after
being largely overlooked, clarified drinks, often made
with milk or yoghurt, are back in favour. Mixologists
are using a variety of techniques — including freezing,
centrifuge and good old-fashioned filtration — to create
clear liquids without impurities, often with a creamier
flavour and thicker finish.
Clarified margaritas are the most ubiquitous,
including a blood orange version at Little Mercies in
London’s Crouch End, which also serves various other
clarified creations, including a vegan lemon cheesecake
punch and a chamomile martini containing mead spun
in a centrifuge. The newly reopened Stables Bar at the
WORDS: CLARE VOOGHT. IMAGE: JUSTIN DE SOUZA

Milestone Hotel in Kensington, meanwhile, experiments

with clarified tzatziki, aquavit, lemon juice and mastiha
(mastic liqueur) in its Olympia cocktail. Islington tiki
bar Laki Kane’s transparent red Mr Vice is a riff on the
classic Miami vice, and Fitzrovia’s Bandra Bhai serves a
clarified spin on mango lassi, made with Greek yoghurt.
In Manchester, Louis (see our review on p.91), serves
a clarified version of the grasshopper, while in Hove,
Etch’s breakfast-inspired Mi Dispiace Negroni (pictured)
adds a sour undertone with Greek yoghurt, combined
with blueberry liquor. For quieter nights in, Sainsbury’s
stocks a completely transparent Mirror Margarita that’s
clearly worth a try.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 11
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 S TA RT E R S

W H AT T H E Y ’ R E E AT I N G I N

DUBAI
In the emirate you’ll find dishes adorned Reif Japanese Kushiyaki’s
Wagyu katsu sando features
with everything from caviar to crisps Australian tenderloin
between slices of milk bread

CINNA MON
R E I F JA PA N E S E K U S H I YA K I
A L L A B E E B G RO C E RY

F E R A S A L D I YA FA S W E E T S

CAVIAR
O R FA L I B RO S
KHESHNA
REGAG
OM AN

NABUL SI
CHIP S

KUNAFA

BUN

WAGYU

SANDO
K ATSU

ROLL
B K RY

Run by three Syrian

The main draw of brothers, whose food
this small grocery pays homage to their Head chef Kameel
store, on a quiet lane Kunafa is a beloved roots, Orfali Bros is an Chef Reif Othman’s well- Rasyid’s experimental
in the Jumeirah Arabic dessert of molten unpretentious, light- priced, artfully presented approach to baking
neighbourhood, is its cheese concealed under filled bistro with a dishes have earned this has gained a strong
regag — a thin, crepe- shredded filo pastry and two-storey open kitchen relaxed neighbourhood following, with queues
like flatbread made with drenched in a sugary at its heart. It’s won a spot a Michelin Bib forming for tables at
a batter of unleavened syrup. Find it fresh and number of accolades, Gourmand for three Bkry, in the Alserkal
wheat flour. The magic hot in large trays and including its first years running. And Avenue arts centre,
is in the toppings: order cut into hefty golden Michelin star earlier devout carnivores will seven days a week.
it with eggs, cheese slabs at Feras Aldiyafa this year. The standout love the hearty Wagyu Everything is house-
and a drizzle of chilli Sweets. The dessert dish is a bite-sized katsu sando. Between made, including jams
sauce or mahyawa, a varies regionally caviar bun; delicate perfectly toasted and spreads; even
fermented fish sauce. — Dubai has many and fluff y as a beignet, slices of milk bread, the flour is milled
The optional addition of different versions, while it comes fi lled with you’ll find Australian on site. Warm, flaky
crushed and sprinkled the Egyptian recipe sour cream and topped Wagyu tenderloin croissants are made with
Chips Oman crisps calls for a base of clotted with kaluga caviar. coated with charcoal Tanzanian chocolate
really makes the dish cream — and here it’s Be sure to save space panko breadcrumbs, or caramelised miso
— or you can go for the the Palestinian style for dessert, though. deep-fried as you like paste, but the rye-flour
sweet chocolate filling that steals the show. The Aleppo pistachio (or to a recommended cinnamon rolls are a true
IMAGE: JOHN GULINGAN

instead. Served on a Made with white brined cake is a homage to the medium-rare). Layered highlight, served with a
paper plate, handed to nabulsi cheese, each brothers’ hometown, with another beef dollop of cream cheese,
you through a hatch in bite of kunafa kheshna with cake, mousse and slice, it’s smothered toasted pecans and a
the window, it’s best nabulsi is a mix of sweet praline all held together in tonkatsu sauce and garnish of orange zest.
eaten right there on the and savoury, crispy and by a raspberry compote. honey-mustard mayo. instagram.com/bkry.
pavement. Jumeirah 3 gooey. ferassweets.ae orfalibros.com reifk ushiyaki.com space Chaitali Patel

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 13
S TA RT E R S

SPOTLIGHT

Smokeries
RUM-AN D -MO L A S S E S BACO N , CO LD -SMO KED SAL MO N ,
K I PPER PÂTÉ — YO U ’LL FI N D IT A LL I N B RITA I N ’ S SMO KEH O U S E S

1 Walter Purkis & Sons, London

London’s oldest working smokery opened in 1880
behind the fishmonger of the same name in Crouch
End. It’s still family-run, using recipes dating back six
generations to cold-smoke oily fish from British ports.
The process takes hours, with the fish suspended high
above smouldering wood shavings to stay cool. Pop into
the shop for salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, or the
house speciality: kippers. walterpurkisandsons.com

2 Welsh Homestead Smokery, Ceredigion

This micro-smokery on a homestead in Wales’s
Cambrian Mountains specialises in dry-curing smoked
bacon and lamb using a process that takes two weeks.
Look out for interesting flavour combinations, such as
smoked rum and molasses bacon, or a barbecue rub
containing smoked salt and sugar. Owner Claire Jesse
also runs workshops (including streaky bacon to take
home) and offers accommodation in a 200-year-old
stone barn. welshsmokery.co.uk

3 Isle of Skye Smokehouse, Skye

The speciality at this award-winning smokery — set
up by former chef John Corfield in a cleit (storage hut)
with stone walls and a peat roof — is perfectly flaky,
alder-smoked salmon. It’s sustainably sourced and
Atlantic-farmed, and after being brined and infused for
24 hours, undergoes a nine-hour hot and gentle smoking
process. The organic cold-smoked salmon and smoked
trout are also packed with flavour. Tours and tastings are
available to book. skyesmokehouse.co.uk

4 L Robson & Sons, Northumberland

Clad in old stone on Craster harbour, L Robson
& Sons has been infusing this Northumberland fishing
village with the smoky-oak scent of fabled Craster
kippers since 1856. Go home with oak-smoked kippers
(fat herring smoked in a 16-hour process, perfect for
WORDS: EMILY ROSE MAWSON. IMAGES: ROBERT ORMEROD; ALAMY

breakfast), kipper fishcakes and traditional smoked

salmon, haddock and cod, or buy kipper pâté to slather
onto oatcakes and enjoy on a coastal ramble to nearby
Dunstanburgh Castle. kipper.co.uk

5 M&M Spink, Angus

Using a method passed down by his grandparents,
Bill Spink has been producing Arbroath smokies
— North Sea haddock that’s salted, dried and hot-
smoked over hard wood — since 1965. Visit his smokery
and shop overlooking the small but busy harbour in the
Scottish town of Arbroath to pick up this protected local
speciality, along with crab, salmon, mackerel, prawns,
kippers, halibut and herring. mmspink.co.uk

From top: Pairs of filleted haddock ready to be made into

Arbroath smokies at M&M Spink; L Robson & Sons smokehouse

14 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Y O U ’ L L  N E V E R  WA N T  T O
H O L I D AY  A N Y  O T H E R  WAY
O U R  N E W E S T  S H I P  M O R E  OV E R N I G H T S   Y E A R - R O U N D  S A I L I N G S 

USETHEQRCODE VISITCELEBRITYCRUISESCOUK|CALL 
TOVIEWSAILINGS
ONLINE ORCONTACTYOURTRAVELAGENT

‹&HOHEULW\&UXLVHV,QF6KLSV·UHJLVWU\0DOWDDQG(FXDGRU1RWKLQJ&RPHV&ORVHLVDWUDGHPDUNRI&HOHEULW\&UXLVHV,QF
S TA RT E R S

NUMBER CRUNCHING

C HEESE
Whether it’s made using the milk of cows, plants, goats or
even donkeys, cheese is a firm favourite around the world

12 $60 0 (£458)
The number of producers who make bitto THE PRICE, PER POUND, OF
storico, the world’s oldest commercially PU LE , THE WORLD ’S MO ST
available edible cheese, which is aged for
an average of five to 10 years. It’s made
exclusively in the Valtellina valley in
3,600 years EXPENSIVE CHEESE. THE
SERBIAN PRODUCT IS M ADE
FROM THE MILK OF
Lombardy, northern Italy The age of the oldest BALK AN DONKEYS
cheese ever discovered.
Originally believed
to be jewellery, it was
found inside a coffin in
Xinjiang, China

206,0 0 0
TONNES 5 5 8 KG
The quantity of cheese consumed in The weight of the giant cheddar ‘drum’,
Switzerland in 2022 (more than 23kg per made from the milk of more than 700 cows,
person annually) — the world’s highest that was gifted to Queen Victoria and
consumption per capita Prince Albert for their wedding in 1840

WORDS: HANNAH WILD. IMAGES: GETTY; STOCKFOOD

4 6% 145
T H E P E R C E N TA G E O F The number of cheese varieties used to £40.2 million
B R I T S W H O S AY C H E D D A R create the world’s largest cheese platter.
I S T H E I R F AV O U R I T E Prepared by Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin The estimated worth of
C H E E S E , AC C O RD I N G TO A in Madison, Wisconsin in 2018, it weighed
C E N S U S W I D E S U RV E Y O F more than 2,000kg, with all the cheeses
the plant-based cheese
1,000 PEOPLE coming from producers in the state market in the UK

Sources: bbc.com businessinsider.com cartwrightandbutler.co.uk eda.admin.ch guinnessworldrecords.com insidermonkey.com serbia.com thegrocer.co.uk yahoo.com

16 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 MAKE PERFECT

Stollen
A G ER M AN C H RI STM A S C L A S S I C , TH I S SWEE T B RE AD COMES
IN N UMERO U S DELI C I O U S VARIE TIES . WO RDS: J Ü RG EN KR AU S S

B AC KG RO U N D
The first written mention of stollen,
from 1329, describes a long bread
made of flour, water and oil. Around
1430, though, a baker called Drasdo
from the city of Torgau made what can
be seen as a real ancestor of modern
stollen, as it was enriched with butter.
Today, there are over 300 types.

F I L L I N G S & F L AVO U R I N G S
Stollen is enriched with butter and
other dairy such as quark, yoghurt
or cream. Nuts (almonds, hazelnuts,
walnuts), fruit (raisins, currants,
sultanas, candied fruit and peel),
seeds (traditionally poppy) and spices
such as cardamom and nutmeg are a
given. Marzipan is an optional extra.

R A I S I N G AG E N T
A pre-ferment (flour mixed with milk
and yeast a day ahead) is common,
but a sourdough starter can also
be used. Quarkstollen, a variety
using quark cheese, is simpler, as it’s
leavened with baking powder, and
is delicious right after baking and
cooling, but will improve over time.

SHAPING
Turn your dough out onto a well-
floured surface and shape into a flat MAKE IT
rectangle. Fold in half lengthways Find Jürgen Krauss’s
— no need to tuck in the edges. stollen recipe online.
nationalgeographic.
If adding marzipan, roll it into a log
com/travel
as long as your stollen, flatten it
slightly and place along the centre
of the dough before folding.

M AT U R I N G S E RV I N G
A fresh yeasted or sourdough stollen Use a serrated knife to carefully cut
will be quite crumbly; it takes at least your stollen. Slices shouldn’t be too
three weeks to develop its texture thick, about 4–6mm. Spread some
and flavours. Brush it with melted butter — and honey, if you like — on it
butter and let that set completely and enjoy with tea or coffee. A yeasted
before dusting with icing sugar. Then, stollen will last several months in an
store it wrapped in foil or a sealed airtight container — a baking-powder
container, at room temperature. version will last weeks.

Jürgen Krauss appeared on The Great British Bake Off in 2021 and is the author of German Baking:
Cakes, Tarts, Traybakes and Breads from the Black Forest and Beyond (£26, Kyle Books)

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 17
 S TA RT E R S

MEET THE MAKER

L A DOLC E VITA
After moving to Sicily for a simpler life, former investment banker
Simone Sabaini helped to reinvent Modica’s sweet scene

The old town of

Modica, Sicily
Left: Simone checks
on his chocolate

“I never liked Modica chocolate. I thought it following year, it was awarded Best Modica
was just a tourist product with many defects,” Chocolate by the Compagnia del Cioccolato, TH RE E MO RE
says Simone Sabaini. “As soon as I started a national association of chocolate enthusiasts. S I C I LI A N SW E E T S
living here, I understood why I didn’t like it It’s scooped the award every year since, and
and set about trying to make it better.” now Simone’s shop has become an essential Granita
Modica’s crumbly, grainy chocolate isn’t to stop in this city famed for its chocolate. His Eat this shaved ice for dessert,
everyone’s taste. When the Spanish brought creations include a 60% cocoa chocolate laced or loaded into a warm brioche
cocoa beans to Sicily during their 500-year with mandarin zest; a gently spicy, aged 75% for breakfast. It’s usually
occupation, they combined them with cocoa bar with Sichuan pepper; and a superfood flavoured with almond or
sugar to make a rustic bar using a technique range made with bee pollen and acai berries. fruit such as lemon, but some
learned from the Aztecs. Despite smoother In 2018, Modica chocolate became the bakeries use more unusual
varieties becoming more popular elsewhere first variety in Europe to gain Protected flavours such as prickly pear.
in Europe, chocolate-makers in Modica stuck Geographical Indication (PGI) status. And
to their guns, producing chocolate at cooler today, the Sabadì range includes nine chocolate Almond biscuits
temperatures and eschewing cocoa butter. But bars, with flavours ranging from Sicilian red They’re available in numerous
Simone saw an opportunity to shake things up. orange to cinnamon, which comply with the shapes, decorations and
The Verona-born former investment banker strict rules of Modica chocolate’s PGI. flavours, but the dough stays
decamped to Modica in 2008 in search of a Recently, Simone moved production to a the same, made with almond
different pace of life. Inspired to try making facility on the edge of town, where he offers flour, sugar and egg white.
chocolate, he used organic Ecuadorian cocoa tours. In 2021, he opened Bar Sabadì in the
beans, and ingredients from Fairtrade and gardens of San Giorgio, and a B&B, Le Stanze Cannoli
IMAGES: SIMONE SABAINI; GETTY

Slow Food producers. “As well as buying better- del Cioccolato. His success has prompted other Once a carnival treat, these
quality beans, I stopped using white sugar and producers to up their game. “By innovating, I deep-fried pastry cylinders
processed the chocolate for longer, at an even forced them to change,” says Simone. “Anyway, filled with sweetened whipped
lower temperature, which made it taste better it’s not about me, it’s about Modica chocolate, ricotta and candied peel or
and gave it a longer shelf life,” he says. The which bears the name of the town I love.” other flavourings, are now
result was a smoother Modica chocolate. Sabadì chocolate can be bought via email eaten year-round.
In 2011, he opened his first chocolate shop, (info@sabadi.it) or from Gelupo in London.
Sabadì, next to San Giorgio Cathedral, and the modica.sabadi.it gelupo.com Fiona Sims

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 S TA RT E R S

WINE

Fortified & fine

FROM D EEP M AH O GAN Y, R AI S I N -SW EE T PED RO X IM ÉN E Z TO PALE G O LD N U T T Y
FI N O, S H ERRY I S TH E D R I N K O F TH E S E A SO N . WO R D S: FI O NA B EC KE T T

When I was young, my parents had a couple Sherries are matured in what’s known as If you’re not already a sherry convert — and
of decanters of sherry in the drinks cupboard a solera system of vertically stacked barrels, the cost alone should persuade you, as it’s
— the norm for their generation, it seemed. It where the highest barrels are topped up with seriously underpriced given its quality — try it
would be poured ceremoniously on the rare young wine and sherry is drawn from the lower with food. There’s a saying: if it swims (i.e. it’s
occasions we had guests, which meant it stayed barrels to be bottled. Lighter, paler styles like fish), pair it with fino, if it flies (game birds), go
open for weeks. But this certainly isn’t the best fino are protected from air by a layer of yeast for amontillado, and if it runs (red meat), reach
way to enjoy sherry. called flor, while darker, richer styles like for oloroso. I find it best with tapas and snacks,
Traditionally a Spanish summer go-to and oloroso are deliberately oxidised — exposed to especially those with a variety of ingredients
a festive favourite for Brits, sherry has steadily the air to create their trademark rich nuttiness. that are hard to match with wine. Fino is
gained ground as a year-round drink, escaping Sweetness ranges from the super dryness of amazing with anchovies and artichokes, for
the confines of tapas bars and becoming fino and manzanilla to the ultra sweetness of example, while amontillado suits chorizo and
more common in restaurants. It’s a drink that pedro ximénez, or PX, which is the name of the strong cheeses, and PX vanilla ice cream. But,
deserves a place in the spotlight. grape — most sherry is made from palomino if sherry’s relatively high alcohol content puts
The word ‘sherry’ can only be applied to grapes. Confusingly, some sherry styles like you off drinking it before or during a meal, sip
wines that are made in the so-called ‘sherry amontillado and oloroso come in both dry and it as an after-dinner drink.
triangle’ at the southernmost tip of Spain, in sweet or medium-sweet versions. In general, Finally, don’t keep it at room temperature
the towns of Jerez, Sanlúcar and El Puerto English brand names such as Croft and in a decanter. Fino, amontillado and palo
de Santa María. Manzanilla, a similar Harveys are likely to be a little sweeter, so if cortado are best from the fridge. Buy them in
type of fortified wine, can only be made in you prefer a drier style, seek out Spanish names half bottles if there are only one or two of you,
Sanlúcar, but otherwise the exact location is such as González Byass, Lustau — which is and from a retailer with a regular turnover like
less important than the production method responsible for most of the supermarket own- Waitrose or The Wine Society. With sherry,
and the period of ageing. brand labels — and Valdespino. especially the dry stuff, freshness is everything.

FI V E TO TRY

Tio Pepe Fino Carvajal Oloroso Waitrose No. 1 Williams & Humbert Morrisons
The popularity of Tio En Rama Torre del Oro Palo As You Like It Medium The Best Pedro
Pepe guarantees quick Oloroso is normally Cortado Sherry Sweet Amontillado Ximénez Sherry
turnover and therefore associated with sweeter Palo cortado is a lesser- Blend VORS PX is the sweetest sherry
the freshness that’s styles, but this delicious known sherry, similar Blended from 30-year-old style and a fantastic
vital for fino. Perfect ‘en rama’ (meaning it’s ‘raw’ to a dry amontillado in amontillados (VORS means addition to vanilla ice
with almonds, olives and unfiltered) sherry is style, but with a flavour Very Old Rare Sherry), this cream. Just pour it over
and anchovies, it has a warming, spicy and dry. of salted caramel and is fruity, nutty and sweet, like a sauce and consider
comparatively low alcohol Great with cecina smoked roasted hazelnuts. Lovely but with a refreshing putting a freshly baked
content, at 15% vol. £13, beef, smoked venison and to sip with almonds and a level of acidity. Perfect brownie underneath.
or £6 for a half bottle. biltong. £21.95. nibble of manchego. £13.99. at Christmas. £29.99. £7 per half bottle.
ocado.com ultracomida.co.uk waitrose.co.uk sandhamswine.co.uk morrisons.com

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 21
S TA RT E R S

MY L I F E I N F O O D

DA’ VINE JOY

R ANDOLPH
The Oscar-winning actor discusses childhood dishes,
her love of fish and chips and making limoncello in Italy

from recipe to recipe. For example, recently

I’ve been obsessed with spaghetti al limone
— if one recipe says use egg yolk, I’ll do that,
but counter it with less heavy cream or cheese.
That way, I create my own version of that dish.
I think creating a recipe that tastes good is art.
I’m obsessed with fish and chips. When done
right, it’s absolutely amazing. I don’t know
how they do this, but The Mayfair Chippy [in
London] has this dehydrated malt vinegar
powder. It’s perfect because it doesn’t make
anything soggy, but when you bite into it, you
get that nice acidity, which is just delicious.
I think the food scene in London is always
improving, and it’s getting creative and trying
new things with classic dishes.
On the Amalfi Coast, the lemons were
ridiculous and the tomatoes were insane.
I’ve never had bad food in Italy. I went to this
amazing restaurant, Ristorante La Torre One
Fire [in Massa Lubrense] where the ‘mama’ was
so warm. She let me cook with her and taught
me how to make limoncello. She told me to
come back and I did — every single day. It was
truly the best food of my life. I think it was due
to a combination of skill set, technique and
produce — it was next level.
I had a well-developed palate at a young I cooked for real when filming The Holdovers.
age. I was lucky to grow up in a place like Reading the script, it felt very quiet and
Philadelphia — it has so many good food intimate — like when you’re snowed in.
options. There were tons of outlets: Italian, For me, the cooking is very intentional and
Chinese, Jewish — I remember being obsessed I really like to take my time. It’s special and
with corned beef specials [a type of sandwich]. it matters, so I wanted that level of detail.
I even had sushi at a young age. My parents When they see her [Mary Lamb, Da’Vine Joy’s
made sure I tried them all. character] cook a chicken or a turkey, I wanted
IMAGES: CONRAD KHALIL; GETTY; STOCKFOOD; ALAMY

Food has always been a cornerstone of our people to have a very visceral experience. If I
family. Both my parents cooked: my dad would faked it, it wouldn’t have read authentically.
make epic brunches, and my mom would [go And, selfishly, I love to cook, so I thought this
all out] for the holiday meals. I loved her fried would be great for me to be so grounded in
cabbage and her eggplant parmigiana. She that character. I also wanted to show that
also made this dish that was a quiche mixed Mary was good at what she did — she was a
with a soufflé — it was predominantly spinach, great cook.
mushrooms and various cheeses. I wasn’t After flights and accommodation, I look at
vegetarian or anything, but I remember really restaurants. I get recommendations months
enjoying vegetarian dishes. in advance, and sometimes I’ll use Anthony
What gives me the most joy is cooking for Bourdain’s. I don’t like touristy places, unless
other people. I look up five different recipes it’s touristy because it’s so fantastic. Da’Vine
from five different sources to compare. I study currently stars in Only Murders in the Building
them for hours and pick my favourite things on Disney +. Interview: Farida Zeynalova

22 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
virginia.org
 RECIPE JOURNAL

Rice dishes
A STAPLE I N G RED I ENT AC RO S S VA ST SWATHES O F TH E WO RLD, RIC E
I S S O MU C H MO R E THA N J U S T A S I D E D I S H — I N M A N Y C A S E S IT ’ S
TH E S TA R O F TH E S H OW. WO R D S: C H R I S TI E D I E T Z

Hyderabadi biryani
with chicken

Steamed, baked or fried, served as a centrepiece or a side, Rice can broadly be categorised by grain size. Short-
rice is a primary food source for more than half of the or round-grain is stubby, moist and sticks together
world’s population. Archaeological evidence suggests the when cooked, making it perfect for sushi and puddings,
starchy grain was first cultivated in China around 7000- whereas medium-grain rice, such as bomba and arborio,
5000 BCE; today, the majority of the global rice supply is absorbent and starchy, ideal for paellas and risottos.
is produced and consumed in China and India. Tens Slender long-grain rice, like basmati, remains separate
of thousands of varieties, from the black and glutinous when cooked and works well in pilafs and salads.
to the wild and red, are cultivated around the globe, in When preparing rice, washing it isn’t always
places as far afield as Lombardy and Louisiana. necessary. Washing removes surface starch and
Rice dishes have evolved under the influence of local impurities, making grains whiter, glossier and less
ingredients, cooking styles and cultural preferences. sticky, and soaking reduces cooking time, but the
Head to Indonesia for a breakfast of bubur ayam, a rice excess starch is sometimes necessary — it’s what gives
congee made with shredded chicken; Puerto Rico for risottos and paellas their creamy texture. To store
IMAGE: STOCKFOOD

arroz con gandules, a one-pot rice dish involving pigeon cooked rice, cool it quickly (certain bacteria thrive at
peas and pork; and Turkey for sütlaç, a sweet, creamy room temperature and can cause food poisoning) before
rice pudding. Rice is also milled into flour to make covering and placing in the fridge. Reheat it only once,
noodles and confectionery, and fermented to produce and ensure it’s piping hot. Although, these three recipes
vinegar and alcoholic drinks. are so moreish, you’re unlikely to have leftovers.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 25
Rijstevlaai
A predecessor to this rice pudding-
filled tart appears in a 1604
cookbook by Lancelot de Casteau,
the master cook of three prince-
bishops of Liège. He suggested
flavouring it with cinnamon and
rosewater and topping with a
pastry lattice; today, however, it’s
a single-crust pie with a vanilla-
infused filling. The Flemish/Dutch
version, rijstevlaai, usually involves
adding a custard to the finished
rice pudding, while the lighter
Wallonian tarte au riz incorporates
whisked egg whites. Note: for the
recipe below, the filling should
barely hold together.

Regula Ysewijn’s rijstevlaai METHOD 20 mins, or until it thickens, stirring constantly.

M A K E S : 1 L A RG E TA RT To prepare the rice, put the milk, cinnamon Remove the pan from the heat and stir
TA K E S : 2 H R S 2 0 M I N S P L U S and rosewater (or vanilla bean) and rice in a occasionally until the pudding has cooled down.
R E S T I N G A N D OV E R N I G H T C H I L L I N G saucepan. Cover and simmer over a low heat Heat the oven to 200C (don’t use the fan
for 40 mins, stirring occasionally. When the setting), gas 6. Grease and flour a 26cm x 25cm
INGREDIENTS rice is tender, uncover the pan and remove x 3cm tart tin. When the dough has risen, knock
FOR THE RICE PUDDING from the heat. Set aside to cool slightly. out the air and roll it out as thinly as you can.
1.5 litres full-fat milk Remove the vanilla bean (if using), then cover Arrange the pastry over the greased tin and
⅛ tsp each of cinnamon and rosewater the pan and store in the fridge overnight. press into the base of the tart tin, then cut away
(or 1 vanilla bean, split) The next day, remove the rice from the fridge any excess. Pierce the pastry base all over with a
140g pudding rice or risotto rice 1 hr before cooking. fork. Spoon over most of the rice pudding mix,
2 eggs, plus 1 egg yolk For the pastry, combine the flour, butter, reserving 2 tbsp. Mix the remaining egg yolk and
50g caster sugar sugar, yeast and salt in a large bowl (or the bowl the icing sugar with the reserved rice pudding
20g unsalted butter, melted of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook). mix and spread that on top of the pudding in
1 tbsp icing sugar Pour in 85ml water and knead for 10 mins until pastry, levelling the top using a pastry brush
the dough is smooth. Cover the bowl and leave (you may have enough pastry and filling left
F O R T H E PA S T RY to rest for 1 hr at room temperature or overnight over to make two additional small tarts).
250g strong (bread) flour in the fridge. Bake the tart in the middle of the oven for
100g unsalted butter, softened Meanwhile, to make the rice pudding, beat 40-45 mins until golden-brown with pale flecks.
25g caster sugar the 2 eggs with the caster sugar until creamy. Set aside to cool before serving.
7g instant dry yeast Stir the egg mixture into the saucepan with the Taken from Dark Rye and Honey Cake: Festival
½ tsp salt chilled rice mix and add the butter. Return the Baking from the Heart of the Low Countries, by
pan to the stove over a low heat and simmer for Regula Ysewijn (£26, Murdoch Books).

26 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 S TA RT E R S

Onigiri
These Japanese filled rice balls are
simple and adaptable. Leave the rice
plain or add cooked peas, corn or
edamame, then stuff with whatever
you have handy. The classic filling
is grilled salmon — though lightly
cooked smoked salmon is a good
substitute — with sesame and
umeboshi (pickled plums). To avoid
sticky fingers, you can wrap the
onigiri in nori seaweed, but if you’re
not serving until later, pack the nori
separately to keep it crisp.

Emiko Davies’ onigiri

MAKES: 4 TA K E S : 1 5 M I N S

INGREDIENTS
60g smoked salmon
vegetable oil, for cooking (optional)
1 spring onion, finely chopped
300g Japanese short-grain rice, freshly
cooked and still warm
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
1 umeboshi (pickled plum), pitted and halved
2 sheets of nori, halved lengthways (optional)

METHOD
Cook the smoked salmon in a non-stick or
lightly oiled pan for around 3 mins until opaque,
pale and almost crumbly. Transfer to a bowl and
mix with the spring onion and half of the rice.
Wet your hands, then rub a pinch of salt over
them. Pick up about half of the salmon-rice
mixture and firmly cup in both of your hands
to give it a firm triangle shape with no loose
rice. Set it down and repeat with the remaining
salmon-rice mix, so you have two salmon onigiri
(if the rice is sticking to your hands, wet them
again and rub with a pinch of salt).
Stir the sesame seeds through the remaining
rice until well distributed. Wet and salt your
hands, as before, then scoop up half of the
sesame-rice mixture. Place half an umeboshi in
IMAGES: REGULA YSEWIJN; YUKI SUGIURA

the middle of the rice and cup your hands to

shape the rice into a triangle. Repeat with the
remaining sesame-rice mixture and umeboshi,
so you have two more onigiri.
Eat immediately or keep in a bento box to
be enjoyed later the same day. You can also
wrap each onigiri in a piece of nori, which makes
eating them less sticky.
Taken from Gohan, by Emiko Davies (£26, Smith
Street Books).

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 27
A DEEPER LOOK

Portofino, Italy
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 S TA RT E R S

Black rice
pudding
A popular dessert in Indonesia,
Malaysia and Thailand, black rice
pudding is made with sticky black
rice, which is chewy enough to
warrant lengthy soaking. Black
cardamom, typically used in
savoury dishes, goes well with the
nutty rice. For a more traditionally
spiced dessert, infuse the rice with
two bruised, knotted pandan leaves
or a cassia stick. Finish with shop-
bought coconut cream and a pinch
of salt or make your own toasted
coconut cream, as below. For added
freshness, accompany with cubes
of pineapple livened up with a
squeeze of lime juice and a pinch
of chilli powder.

Eleanor Ford’s black rice with Also the day before, prepare the toasted To cook the black rice pudding, drain the
black cardamom coconut cream. Boil a full kettle. Heat a frying soaked rice and wash again. Tip into a pan
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 1 H R 2 0 M I N S pan and toast the desiccated coconut, stirring, with the black cardamom and 800ml water.
P L U S OV E R N I G H T S OA K I N G until it takes on a deep, toasty brown colour. Bubble, uncovered, over a medium heat for
Tip into a heatproof blender with 1.25 litres of around 40 mins, stirring occasionally, until
INGREDIENTS the recently boiled water. Soak for 20 mins, then you have a soft, porridge-like rice pudding
200g black glutinous rice blitz well. Strain and squeeze through a nut bag, (depending on your rice, it may need more
4 black cardamom pods, lightly bashed muslin or fine strainer to extract all the liquid, water and longer cooking for the grains to
40g palm sugar, shaved (or more to taste) then put the liquid in the fridge overnight yield). Discard the cardamom and stir in the
(discard the solids or refrigerate them for up to palm sugar. Reduce the heat and simmer,
F O R T H E TOA S T E D C O C O N U T C R E A M 5 days to use in smoothies). stirring, for a final 5 mins. Taste for sweetness
150g desiccated coconut The next day, the liquid will have separated. — you may want to add more palm sugar.
pinch of fine sea salt Scoop the thick coconut cream from the top and Leave to cool.
stir in a little of the watery coconut milk below Serve the rice pudding at room temperature
IMAGE: OLA O SMIT

METHOD to get a smooth cream with a thick, pouring alongside the toasted coconut cream
A day in advance, wash the rice well in several consistency. Add a good pinch of salt. Reserve for drizzling.
changes of water, picking out any grit or husks. the leftover watery coconut milk to make up Taken from A Whisper of Cardamom: Sweetly
Leave to soak in cold water overnight to soften some of the cooking liquid for the rice or save Spiced Recipes to Fall in Love With, by Eleanor
the fibre-packed hulls. to use in soup. Ford (£26, Murdoch Books).

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 29
S TA RT E R S

On the menu
SPANI SH PAELL A , SIC ILIAN AR AN C INI, KO RE AN
KIMBAP AND MO RE — THESE ARE SOME O F THE
B EST RIC E DI SHES SERVED ARO U ND THE WO RLD

H Y D E R A B A D I K AC H C H E G O S H T K I B I RYA N I
Adaa, Hyderabad
The southern Indian city of Hyderabad is famous for its style of
biryani, thought to have originated in the royal kitchens of the
city’s former rulers, the Nizam. To make kachche biryani, meat is
marinated in spices overnight before being layered with basmati
rice and cooked slowly in a sealed pot. Enjoy a lamb version in the
opulent setting of Adaa, at the 130-year-old Taj Falaknuma Palace,
the Nizam’s former residence. 1,700 INR (£15). tajhotels.com

A R A N C I N I A L R AG Ù
Pasticceria Savia, Catania
Arancini literally means ‘little oranges’, reflecting their traditionally Persian berry pilaf at Sifr
round shape and golden colour. In Sicily’s ancient port city of Below: Restaurante Bon Aire
Catania, however, the deep-fried balls of arborio rice are formed into
a teardrop shape, with the tapered end representing Mount Etna, in
whose shadow the city sits. Head to Pasticceria Savia, an institution
that’s been around since 1897, for its arancini al ragù, stuffed with households, but it’s generally accepted that traditional Valencian
meat-and-tomato sauce and cheese. Be prepared to queue. €2.50 paella incorporates a combination of meats, such as rabbit, chicken,
(£2) per arancino. savia.it sausage and snails, along with saffron, seasonal vegetables and
round-grain rice, all cooked over fire in a wide, flat pan. In the village
LO C O M O C O of El Palmar, family-run Restaurante Bon Aire serves a classic paella
Liliha Bakery, Honolulu Valenciana with chicken, rabbit, snails and white beans. €18 (£15).
Loco moco is a Hawaiian dish in which a fried beef patty is served restaurantebonaire.com
over fluffy white rice with gravy and a fried egg on top. Extras are
allowed, but without these four components stacked in that order, P E R S I A N Z E R E S H K B E R RY P I L A F
it’s not a loco moco. Honolulu’s Liliha Bakery, which opened in 1950 Sifr, Chicago
and now has five locations, is famous for its cakes, pastries and At Sifr, in Chicago’s lively River North neighbourhood, chefs Sujan
loco moco. Head to the original spot on Kuakini Street for its hand- Sarkar and Sahil Sethi serve modern Middle Eastern cuisine. Inspired
pressed, chargrilled Black Angus patty with eggs, gravy and a choice by zereshk polo (a sweet and sour rice dish incorporating barberries
of regular or fried rice. From $16.50 (£12.50). lilihabakery.com and saffron), their Persian zereshk berry pilaf combines basmati rice
with saffron, milk, butter, baharat spice mix and barberries, and is
PA E L L A VA L E N C I A N A finished with parsley, sumac, onions and pomegranate seeds. Head
Restaurante Bon Aire, Valencia to the restaurant’s rooftop patio to enjoy it with views over the city.
Paella originated in the coastal Spanish city of Valencia, where rice $11 (£8). sifrchicago.com
has been cultivated since the eighth century. Recipes vary between
B U LG O G I G I M B A P
Bibimbap, Glasgow
Gimbap, or kimbap, is a popular Korean lunch dish closely
resembling Japanese sushi. Steamed short-grain rice is seasoned
with salt and sesame oil, stuffed with a wide variety of fillings and
rolled up in dried seaweed sheets, known as gim, or kim, in Korean.
Bibimbap (named after another well-known Korean rice dish)
has three locations across Glasgow and Edinburgh, each offering
a choice of meat, fish and vegetable gimbap. Its beef version
incorporates marinated beef, cucumber, carrot and Korean barbecue
sauce. £9.90. bibimbapglasgow.co.uk
IMAGES: RESTAURANTE BON AIRE; SIFR

G R A P OW F R I E D R I C E
Chim’s Thai, London
Pad gra pow is an aromatic Thai dish of finely chopped or minced
meat stir-fried with holy basil, chilli and garlic, served over jasmine
rice and topped with a fried egg. In Cheam, southwest London, Chim’s
Thai offers both the traditional version and its own creation in which
the core ingredients are turned into a sweet, spicy, garlicky stir-fry.
Seasoned with oyster sauce, the gra pow fried rice comes with a
choice of chicken, pork or aubergine. From £11. chimsthai.com

30 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
ANDRÉ S TORRE S

THE PIONEER

32 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 AT H I S R E S TAU R AN T I N C ATALO N I A , C H EF A N D R É S TO R R E S
C RE ATE S FO O D WITH A MI N IM AL ENVI RO NMENTAL IMPAC T
— A N D FU N D S H UM AN ITAR I A N WO R K I N TH E PRO C E S S .
WO RDS: PE TER YEU N G. PH OTO G R APH S: M ARGARE T STEPIEN

Andrés Torres has strong opinions on Many of these methods fit in with the chef’s
sustainability. The war correspondent-turned- commitment to sustainability. He claims Casa
chef has seen enough of the world to know how Nova is 98% self-sufficient, with everything
vital it is to preserve the planet’s resources, else sourced from local producers. Naturally,
and he has no time for empty gestures. the restaurant has egg-laying hens, beehives to
“Sustainability is all the rage in restaurants make lavender- and rosemary-infused honey,
all over the world,” he says. “But there’s a lot and a prodigious vegetable plot. Scraps from
of bullshit out there. For me, sustainability is the kitchen are composted and used to fertilise
something very basic. It’s very simple.” His the next season’s crops. A modest amount of
restaurant, Casa Nova, a farmhouse in the hills timber is foraged for firewood, but most of the
west of Barcelona, is a temple to slow, soulful power comes from solar panels.
cooking. Torres relies on age-old methods So far, admittedly, these are fairly standard
and the particularities of the region’s terrain, eco practices. But Torres even produces his
climate and cultures, using only what’s own salt, venturing out in a boat to collect
naturally abundant. Mediterranean seawater. He’s created a stone
Inspired by traditional and Indigenous ‘insect hotel’ to support pest-eating bugs that
communities he met during his many protect crops without the need for pesticides.
globetrotting expeditions, the chef combines Rainwater is collected in barrels previously
ancient processes with exquisite modern used to mature wine, and then used on the
execution. There’s baked potato in a crust of vegetables. Plates and other tableware are
herbs and a pool of spiced butter; egg yolk made by Torres’s wife. And instead of using
suffused with, and warmed by, injected chicken dehydrators, as many high-end restaurants
stock; mojama (filleted, salt-cured tuna — a dish and industrial producers do, Torres built his
typical of coastal Spain); and a lettuce sorbet own drying room and smokehouse. “The big
with marinated and roasted lettuce leaves. factories cut tuna into slices and dry them
“I’ve created and improved my dishes with devices that control the temperature and
based on the experiences I’ve had visiting humidity,” he says. “Not me — I put it under
communities around the world,” Torres says. the sun and it dries naturally. It’s delicious.”
He bakes bread in a wood-fired oven like Self-taught Torres, who grew up in
the Quechua-speaking peoples of Peru, Barcelona during the 1970s, was interested
Andrés Torres worked as a war roasts coffee like Colombian tribes do and from an early age in his mother’s hearty
reporter before establishing produces chocolate using methods he learnt Spanish soul food (fried eggs with crispy
his restaurant near Barcelona in Guatemala. potatoes and ham remains his favourite dish).

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 33
S TA RT E R S

Casa Nova is largely self-

sufficient, with its own vegetable
garden, hens and smokehouse

Signature dishes

ONIONS
Torres’s take on French onion
soup (above) is a homage to
the enormous onions grown
in the restaurant’s vegetable
plot. The skins are baked for a
long time until they become
very soft, while the onion flesh
is boiled down until it becomes
creamy, and the water it was
cooked in becomes a sweet,
The family would rarely go out to eat and so are no waiters — in a dining room with six oniony infusion. These are
Torres would often watch her cook at home. “I tables and a capacity of 22. “It’s like you’re served with a crispy biscuit,
was very curious,” he says. “I asked her many coming to my house to eat,” says Torres. “If also made of onion.
questions: What’s that ingredient? Why are I set up a party at my house with 200 diners,
you cooking it like this? I learned without I’d not be able to greet them all. This is not a C H O C O L AT E
going to university or to cooking schools. For business. I want it to be a place of pilgrimage, Torres works with a women’s
me, university is the street.” where you eat and think about the world.” cooperative in Guatemala, from
As a teenager, Torres was already cooking Environmentalism is only part of the story which the cacao is sourced,
for his siblings and friends. But by the age he wants to tell. The restaurant helps fund to make his own chocolate
of 17, he had begun working as a freelance Global Humanitaria, a nonprofit he set up in dessert. The cacao seeds are
war reporter and went on to cover conflicts 1999 to support food security, education and toasted alongside branches
in Libya, Afghanistan, Colombia, Iraq and children’s rights across the world and provide from the restaurant’s vineyards,
the former Yugoslavia. He also spent time emergency relief for victims of conflict and which impart some of their
living in India, Cambodia and the Peruvian natural disasters. Torres claims to have been aroma. The seeds’ skins are
Andes. “What I learned most is humility and the first chef to enter Ukraine after the war then removed by hand, before
gratitude,” he says. broke out, driving from Poland with 500 bags the cacao mass is blended
Torres’s next chapter arrived about 20 years of groceries. He’s since returned 10 times. together and a little bit of
ago when he bought an old chicken farm At Casa Nova, Torres shares stories of his sugar is added.
surrounded by vineyards near Barcelona as travels with his guests and encourages socially
a place to recuperate after his travels. He conscious discussions. “They think they’re P OTATO E S
would cook from time to time for visiting going to eat — and obviously they are — but we Inspired by the tuber-loving
friends and acquaintances — things like have conversations about what happens every Indigenous peoples of the
Peruvian chuños (freeze-dried potatoes) day: what happened to your neighbour, your Peruvian highlands, Torres
— and the reputation of his cooking spread father, what happened in the world,” he says. has created his own take
by word of mouth until even strangers began “And 90% of diners leave saying ‘Well, what on a baked potato — coated
knocking on his door asking to be fed. So, in can I do? Can I make a donation?’” in herbs and spices, baked in
2015, Torres opened Casa Nova. And last year, In June, Torres won the prestigious Basque a wood-fired oven and then
another unexpected visitor came knocking: Culinary World Prize — often called the served in a pool of spiced
the Michelin Guide, which awarded Casa Nova ‘Nobel Prize of gastronomy’ — when he was butter. After eating it, diners
a Green Star for sustainability. acknowledged for his combined work with are invited to place the
Torres has kept the intimate feel of those Casa Nova and Global Humanitaria. remaining herb-and-spice crust
pre-restaurant meals with friends — diners Yet, for all this, Torres’s view of food remains inside a flowerpot on the table
are given a tour of the grounds, where his — like his approach to sustainability — quite and take it to a composting
philosophy and processes are explained. simple. “Food is first of all nourishment, it is booth — a gesture intended
Starters are served in a cosy room with a sensations in sight, in smell, in taste, even in to encapsulate Casa Nova’s
crackling fireplace, then there’s a visit to the hearing,” he says. “When there’s a sauce that sustainable philosophy.
kitchen to meet staff. Just seven people farm, you love, you pick up the spoon, you start to
cook, deliver and explain all the food — there scrape the plate — that sound, that’s glory.”

34 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
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 & W HER E TO FIND THEM
Nothing brings people together like sharing a meal.
Feasting with friends and family occurs the world over,
whether it’s to celebrate a bountiful harvest, the arrival
of a new year or a religious festival. From Polish
Christmas Eve, with its many meat-free courses, to Burns
Night, when Scotland’s national poet is honoured with
haggis and a dram of whisky, here are some of the best
— and most delicious — communal dining experiences
worth travelling for.
IMAGES: GETTY; AZERBAIJAN TOURISM BOARD; STOCKFOOD

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 37
P OL A N D

Wigilia
In Poland, Christmas Eve is the biggest and best feast of the year, with a dozen courses shared
between loved ones — from soups and salads to an array of sweets. Words: Ren Behan

Wigilia, meaning vigil, is the most anticipated Vegetable salad bed of carrots with tomatoes and onions to
feast of the year for Poles. It’s full of symbolism: Every table will include a salad or two. baked bream with a dill butter sauce.
the table is traditionally set with an empty One popular option is a salad comprising
space for the ‘unknown guest’ and a nest of diced potatoes and various vegetables, all Sernik
hay is placed under the tablecloth to represent coated in mayonnaise; another is made There are two types of classic sernik (Polish
the manger. When the first star is visible with finely grated raw vegetables, such as cheesecake): sernik bez spodu, which doesn’t
in the sky, the meal can begin, with the 12 carrots and sauerkraut, dressed with sugar have a base, and sernik krakowski (Krakow-
courses representing the 12 apostles and the and vinegar. style), which comes with a pastry base and,
12 months of the year. The whole thing is sometimes, a lattice topping. Homemade
meatless and includes dishes such as herring, Pierogi festive varieties are flavoured with vanilla and
noodles with poppy seeds and almonds, and One of Poland’s most famous dishes, pierogi candied peel and often include raisins. For
kompot (a fruity drink). Here are the highlights. are a Wigilia essential. The typical festive the Christmas Eve feast, try sernik wiedeński
version of these dumplings features a (Viennese-style): a light, fluffy, baseless version.
Barszcz cabbage and mushroom filling, although
This beetroot soup is made with a vegetable many households also serve pierogi ruskie Gingerbread
stock, gently simmered with zakwas, a sour (Ruthenian-style), packed with mashed potato, Whether in the form of decorated biscuits or
IMAGES: GETTY; STOCKFOOD; YUKI SUGIURA

rye base. The beetroots are often separately fried onions and curd cheese. After being loaf cakes such as piernik, gingerbread is a
roasted or cooked in their skins before being gently boiled, and sometimes pan-fried for a must at any Wigilia feast. It’s often coated in
grated into the soup, which is served with crispy finish, they’re topped with caramelised chocolate glaze and layered with plum jam.
small, mushroom-filled dumplings known as onions and served with sour cream.
uszka (‘little ears’). Makowiec
Fish Poppy seeds feature heavily in Polish baking,
Forest mushroom soup Most Poles above a certain age will remember and a favourite at Christmas time is makowiec,
Made using a light base of vegetable stock, celebrations featuring carp, chosen for its (poppy seed roll). It features a sweet, yeasted
this hearty soup is studded with dried porcini freshness and affordability, served fried in dough filled with a paste of ground poppy
mushrooms, ideally from an autumn forage. It butter and breadcrumbs. These days, however, seeds flavoured with vanilla, chopped nuts,
tends to be served with barley or noodles. fish options tend to range from cod on a candied peel and lashings of honey.

38 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 FEASTS

W H ER E T O CELEBR AT E

Zafishowani, Gdańsk
As Christmas Eve is a public holiday
in Poland, many restaurants close
early, or for the entire day. In Gdańsk,
Clockwise from
riverside restaurant and wine bar
left: Makowiec, a
Zafishowani is open during the
Polish poppy seed
season, including half a day on
roll; the city of
Christmas Eve. Expect marinated Gdańsk; pierogi
herring with horseradish, onion and with sauerkraut and
tomato, indulgent fish platters and mushroom filling
halibut in beurre blanc. zafishowani.pl Previous page,
clockwise from top
Pod Nosem, Krakow left: Thanksgiving

Located on one of Krakow’s prettiest pumpkin pie;

al fresco dining
cobbled streets, Pod Nosem is listed
in Sweden;
in the Michelin Guide and serves
shekerbura, a
dishes such as pike perch with
Nowruz staple;
lentils and forest mushroom sauce. Salisbury Crags,
Save room for the white chocolate Edinburgh; Greek
cheesecake. Closed 24 and 25 loukoumades;
December. kanonicza22.com Polish barszcz

Forest mushroom soup METHOD

The Poles have a long and romantic To make the stock, put all the
history of mushroom picking; Polish ingredients and a pinch each of salt
writer Adam Mickiewicz even wrote and pepper into a large pan. Cover
about it in his 1834 epic poem, with around 2 litres cold water and
Pan Tadeusz. But as you can buy all gently bring to the boil, skimming
manner of wild mushrooms safely off any foam that forms. Leave to
from local food markets these days, I’d simmer for 1 hr 30 mins.
encourage you to do that for this soup, Add the potato to the stock and
which you can serve with cooked pearl cook for a further 15 mins until the
barley to make another traditional potato is soft. Remove the chicken
dish: krupnik. For a meat-free version, wings, onion halves, celery and
leave the chicken out of the stock. bay leaf and discard.
S E RV E S : 8 TA K E S : 2 H R S Put the dried mushrooms into a
cup or small bowl, pour over some
INGREDIENTS boiling water and leave to soak.
1 large potato, peeled and cut into Heat the oil and butter in a large
small cubes pan and gently fry the chopped
30g dried porcini or other dried onion for 5 mins until it starts to
wild mushrooms soften. Add the fresh mushrooms
1 tsp vegetable oil and cook for 5 mins more.
1 tsp butter Drain the rehydrated
1 onion, finely chopped mushrooms (reserving the liquid)
200g fresh chestnut mushrooms or and chop very finely. Add to the
mixed wild mushrooms, halved pan with the fresh mushrooms.
or quartered Add some of the lemon juice and
½ lemon, juiced stir in the parsley.
small bunch of parsley, finely chopped Add the mushroom mixture and
100ml double cream or soured cream reserved liquid to the stock. Pour
half of the soup into a blender and
F O R T H E S TO C K blitz, then pour the pureed soup
500g chicken wings back into the pan. Bring back to the
2 carrots boil, then remove from the heat,
1 onion, halved stir in the cream and serve.
1 celery stick Taken from Wild Honey & Rye:
small bunch of parsley Modern Polish Recipes, by Ren
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh Behan (£26, Pavilion Books)

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 39
C A NA DA

Thanksgiving
Harvest season is the star of Canadian Thanksgiving, whose flavours are influenced
by the country’s immigrant and First Nations cultures. Words: Sarah Barrell

“You put your own touches on tradition depending cinnamon and nutmeg,” says Johnny. “It’s different W H ER E T O
on where your family originated from,” says from America’s super-sweet pies and candied sides,
CELEBR AT E
Canadian chef Jonny Lake, of London’s Trivet like marshmallows with sweet potato casserole.
restaurant. “Not everyone does turkey.” Canadian Thanksgiving isn’t so linked to the pilgrim
Canada celebrates Thanksgiving with a table that story, either — it’s much more of a harvest festival.” Upper Humber
reflects its immigrant make-up. A 2020 survey of This idea is echoed by Lauralee Ledrew, a farmer Settlement,
1,000 ‘new Canadians’ (those in the country for 12 in Newfoundland and owner of Upper Humber Newfoundland
years or less), by Ontario spice brand Club House, Settlement B&B; her family have Acadian and Lauralee’s farmstead
noted that, while 81% of ‘new Canadians’ celebrate Mi’kmaq First Nations heritage. She grows fruit B&B offers harvesting,
Thanksgiving, 41% blend typical dishes with and veg on her estate, blending permaculture and foraging and cooking
favourites from their own cultures. Fried rice and regenerative farming techniques with knowledge experiences. Gather wild
pancit (a Filipino noodle dish) were the most popular, handed down from her mother and grandmother. berries, mushrooms and
reflecting Canada’s high numbers of Chinese, South For Lauralee, Thanksgiving is a time of harvest plants on guided forest
Asian and Southeast Asian immigrants. and hunting. “Berry season is upon us,” she says, tours and learn how
Raised in Ontario by English immigrant parents, noting specifics like partridge berries (similar to they’re combined with
Jonny grew up in a family that adopted — and cranberries), squashberries (highbush cranberries) farm food and wild game.
adapted — the local food culture. “Our Thanksgiving and bakeapple (cloudberries). “We dry them, too, upperhumbersettlement.ca
meal was a kind of Sunday roast,” he says, noting to make fruit leather like our ancestors did.”
the shared elements of a meat dish with vegetable It’s also about making do. Lauralee, one of five Notch8, Vancouver
sides. “But later on, Mum added things like wild children raised by a single mother, grew up on Thanksgiving dinners
rice casserole,” a Canadian Thanksgiving dish that adapted Newfoundland Thanksgiving dishes, here feature dishes such
IMAGES: GETTY; AZERBAIJAN TOURISM BOARD

typically includes seasonal vegetables and cheese. including ‘fisherman’s brewis’ one-pot stews, as turkey with buttermilk
Where you live in Canada is also influential. Fish blueberry duff (a steamed pudding) and campfire potato puree alongside
and berries feature on Thanksgiving menus in boreal Bannock bread, which her mother enlivened by spiced squash and candied
regions; game meat and mushrooms are popular stuffing it with onions. Root crops loomed large, too. pumpkin seed, plus items
in the peaks and prairies; and seafood stars in the “You wouldn’t have Thanksgiving without potato, that nod to the city’s Asian
Maritimes, where you might find a ‘seacuterie’ board carrot, turnip, cabbage and turnip greens,” she says. population, like miso-glazed
of smoked salmon, crab, mussels and oysters. Does Newfoundland’s classic Jigg’s dinner (salt sablefish with bamboo rice.
Celebrated on the second Monday in October, beef, veg and pease pudding) make her menu? “Sure! Pumpkin tiramisu is the
Canadian Thanksgiving falls during the harvest Anything from Jigg’s to baked squash and garden star of the autumn harvest
season, when pumpkins and gourds are abundant. greens. Thanksgiving is a time for gathering and afternoon tea menus.
“Canadians tend to favour savoury spices, like being hands-on — and food brings people together.” notch8-dining.com

40 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 FEASTS

I R A N & BE YON D

Nowruz
Persian New Year is celebrated in many countries across the world.
Here’s everything you need to know. Words: Farida Zeynalova

What is it? What are the most popular dishes?

Nowruz, the Persian New Year, is a 3,000-year-old In Iran, typical dishes include kookoo sabzi (herby
celebration of spring, rooted in Zoroastrianism. frittata) and sabzi polo ba mahi (rice with herbs
Usually beginning around 20 March and lasting and fish). Plov, the national dish of Uzbekistan and
13 days, it’s celebrated across Iran, Azerbaijan, Azerbaijan, is at the heart of most Nowruz festivities.
Afghanistan and Central Asia, as well as in Kurdish, In Azerbaijan, kebabs and dolma (stuffed vine leaves)
Turkic Uyghur and Parsi communities. Festivities are also popular, as are baklava and shekerbura
typically involve gatherings of friends and family, (sweet pastries with nuts and cardamom). In
street festivals, bonfires and folk music. In Central Uzbekistan, sumalak (sprouted wheat pudding) is
Asia and Afghanistan, traditional games are popular, made in vast cauldrons. Afghans have sabzi challow
while in Iran, spring cleaning marks the start of (spinach and lamb curry) followed by desserts like
celebrations. But the common denominator is food. kolcheh nowrozi (rice flour biscuits). For Kazakhs,
Nowruz tends to involve nauryz kozhe (a soup of
Clockwise from
What’s a typical feast like? barley, horse meat and milk).
left: Canadian
Most spreads include a haft-sin, a display of seven
Thanksgiving spread;
Nowruz celebrations
ingredients starting with the letter ‘S’ in the local How can you join in?
in Baku, Azerbaijan; language. Each symbolises a concept — such as Bergamot, Plateful Cafe, Tehran-Berlin and
plov, a rice dish, is health (garlic), patience (vinegar) and beauty (apple) Berenjak, all in London, offer Nowruz menus or
often the centrepiece in Iran. You can also expect a tray with sabzeh (lentil supper clubs. Other UK options include Konj Cafe in
of a Nowruz meal sprouts), nuts, sweets, dried fruits and painted eggs. Edinburgh and Cardiff’s Parisa Events.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 41
FEASTS

GR EE CE

Apokries
Athens-born chef Nikos Roussos shares his favourite Greek pre-Lent dishes and traditions, W H ER E T O
from smoked meats and syrupy treats to burning effigies. Interview: Summer Rylander CELEBR AT E

Apokries is the preparation for the long fast. big carnivals take place. Every region has its own
There are 10 weeks in total that we call the Triodion and, at the end of these parties, they burn an effigy Athens
period; if we count backwards from Easter Sunday, called the Carnival King, symbolising the burning The city’s most vibrant
we have seven weeks of fasting and before those are of hate between the people. Apokries carnival is held in
the three weeks of Apokries. During the first week of The sweets and the meats are my favourite things the Plaka neighbourhood.
Apokries, it’s pretty calm — everyone is decorating. to eat. For my family, I like to make loukoumades. Savour grilled meats,
The second week brings parties and a day called They become like small balls after the dough has cheese pies, sweets
Tsiknopempti, or Smoky Thursday, when we grill been fried and we dress them with thyme honey and and wine as costumed
lots of meat. No meat is consumed in the third week cinnamon — it’s very simple, but if you have a good partygoers fill the streets.
of Apokries — let’s call that the week of dairy. We eat dough and good thyme honey, it’s amazing. And
pasta with cheese, lots of pies and fried sweets like then there’s the meat: pork from the Peloponnese, Patras
loukoumades, the popular fried doughnuts. for example, is really special. It’s all about choosing Patras, in the northern
It’s about family, food and celebrating life. the cuts and cooking them properly on the grill, just Peloponnese, hosts
Apokries is an important time for the Orthodox like that — no sauces. Greece’s largest carnival
Church, although the religious aspect is different In Greece, pies are important. All the regions have event. Parties take place
these days. For modern Greeks, it doesn’t matter their own local pies, and I enjoy making them across the season, with
if you’re Orthodox or not, if you believe or not with seasonal ingredients. Leek pies are common, the main bash occurring
— but the traditions of Apokries? Everyone keeps sometimes with pork inside, and cheese pies are the weekend before Clean
those alive. It’s about the social aspects; the classic. Most are made with feta; some with a mix Monday and concluding
traditions; families and friends getting together. of cheeses. But it’s always about the dough — some with the burning of the
My memories are of costumes, dancing and parties. regions make it with flour and olive oil, while in Carnival King effigy.
Everyone is in costume; it’s like Halloween, but other places they use butter. When I make a pie Elaborate parades see
without the scary mood. You can dress up however with seasonal greens, I use olive oil; when I make enormous floats making
you want, then everyone goes to parties. They dance one with leek and pork, I might go for butter. their way through the city.
and throw ribbons and colourful things everywhere. After Apokries comes Clean Monday — the first day
There are parties in schools and homes, and big of the fast. It’s a bank holiday and everybody goes Galaxidi
carnivals are organised throughout the country, to the countryside. Clean Monday marks the start of This small seaside town
with thousands of people partying and dancing. the fasting period and we eat a traditional sesame in Phocis hosts one
IMAGES: GETTY; LATEEF OKUNNU

I really like Tsiknopempti — it’s a good day. Smoky flatbread called lagana, served with tarama, a spread of the country’s most
Thursday is a big feast. We eat a lot of meat. It’s made with cured fish roe. During Lent, we eat a lot of memorable Clean Monday
mostly grilled pork like souvlaki and pork steaks, molluscs, octopus, calamari and vegetables. celebrations. Residents
but there are loads of grilled lamb chops and goat After the resurrection, it’s time for lamb. On Easter take to the streets with
chops, too. It’s all about gathering at each other’s Sunday, we eat hundreds of lambs — making up for brilliantly dyed flour and
homes, bringing meat and wine. I just love it. I also lost time, you could say. throw it at one another,
enjoy the third week, especially the last Sunday, Nikos Roussos is the executive chef and co-founder usually after a snack of
which is the final day of Apokries. It’s when all the of Opso, Kima and Pittabun, all in London. lagana, tarama and wine.

42 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Souvlaki
In northern Greece, souvlaki refers to
small pieces of meat on a skewer, while
in southern Greece it generally means
skewered meat (pork gyros or beef
patties) wrapped in pitta flatbread
with the likes of tomato, onion and
tzatziki. This recipe calls for the meat
to be skewered and chargrilled,
and accompanied by a flatbread. You
can choose whether to wrap it or not
— and whether to make pork skewers,
beef skewers or both. You’ll need 10
or 20 metal skewers, depending on
what you decide.
MAKES: 10 OR 20 SKEWERS
TA K E S : 4 0 M I N S

INGREDIENTS
1.8kg Ibérico pork presa, trimmed
800g prime ribeye, boned and
trimmed
lemon juice, sea salt flakes and dried
oregano, to season
warm flatbreads, to serve
tzatziki, tomato and onion, to serve
(optional)

METHOD
Cut the Ibérico pork into 60
small, evenly sized cubes of
around 30g each. Take 10 metal
skewers and thread six cubes of
pork onto each one. Season the
skewers lightly with salt.
Cut the ribeye into 10 even
slices, each around 80g and 1cm
thick. Thread each slice onto a
metal skewer, weaving it in and
out in a wavy pattern. Sprinkle the
skewers with salt.
Place the pork skewers on the
bars of a barbecue grill and cook
above the hot embers, turning
occasionally, for 8–10 mins, or
until cooked through and slightly
charred. Once they’re halfway
through their cooking time, place
the ribeye skewers on the grill, too,
and cook for 2 mins on each side.
Remove the pork and ribeye
skewers from the grill and season
with the lemon juice, sea salt flakes
and dried oregano. Serve both
meats with the warm flatbreads;
if you want to wrap yours, add
the tzatziki, tomato and onion.
Taken from OPSO: A Modern
Greek Cookbook, by Andreas
Andreas Labridis and
Nikos Roussos’ souvlaki Labridis and Nikos Roussos
Above: The sun sets over (£35, Ebury Press)
Patras, home to Greece’s
largest Apokries carnival

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 43
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 FEASTS

Tucking into a Midsummer feast

Left: Potatoes and fish are the
stars of the Midsummer spread

SW EDEN

Midsummer
The Swedish celebration of summer and the season of fertility is marked with a huge W H ER E T O
smorgasbord, maypole dancing and partying late into the night. Words: Richard Orange CELEBR AT E

As my bike rattles downhill, the wide fields of of herring and creme fraiche thickened with gelatine
southern Sweden’s fertile Söderslätt plain, yellow and served on a butter and breadcrumb base. Åkerblads Gästgiveri
with rapeseed flowers, stretch out to the right. To the Someone else has brought västerbottenpaj, a quiche Hotell & Spa, Dalarna
left, the Baltic Sea has just slipped out of sight. When flavoured with pungent västerbottensost cheese. This hotel on Lake Siljan
I arrive at Malin and Christian’s century-old brick There are two enormous sourdough loaves and some serves a classic Midsummer
villa, it’s already clattering with preparations for the fröknäcke, a seeded crispbread. The only classic dish smorgasbord, including
feast. Malin and her seven-year-old daughter Edith missing is gravadlax, salmon cured with salt, sugar herring and new potatoes,
have been picking the flowers and greenery that will and dill. The potatoes are served with butter, dill and after which you can join
decorate the midsommarstång, or maypole, and I’m chives, with sliced hard-boiled eggs laid alongside. the celebrations in town.
immediately marshalled into scrubbing potatoes. A Swedish Midsummer meal is often formal, akerblads.se
New potatoes, dug up from the garden, are central with places set at a table outside. But here, it’s a
to Malin and Christian’s feast. “You don’t normally come-and-go affair. I pile herring onto crispbread, Bosjökloster Slott &
have hot food at Midsummer: it’s about potatoes its saltiness offset by the sweet-and-sour pickle, and Trädgårdar, Skåne
and herring,” Malin says. The home-grown produce indulge in gubbröra, enjoying the cinnamon, allspice Tuck into a Midsummer
feels fitting for this festival, which originated when and sandalwood flavours. The mellow potatoes are spread made with locally
Sweden was an agrarian society — it not only marks the perfect partner to the accompanying bolder foraged ingredients at
the longest day of the year, but welcomes a new dishes, and the cheese in the västerbottenpaj is so this country house and
season of fertility, too. As well as potatoes, the couple strong, a single helping is plenty. former nunnery, then join
provide home-grown chives, pickled herring and a After the meal, the children and some of the the maypole dancing on
bottle or two of schnapps and aquavit. Midsummer adults walk it off in the fields, picking flowers for lawns leading down to Lake
is when Swedes let loose, taking advantage of the midsommarkransar (floral crowns), before Ringsjön. bosjokloster.se
daylight that lasts until close to midnight, singing the time comes to erect the 10ft maypole. It’s
and dancing until sunrise. commonly believed to be a pagan fertility symbol, Getnö Gård, Småland
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY

Guests start to arrive and the table is piled with representing male genitalia, but experts regularly This Lake Åsnen resort has a
dishes: alongside five varieties of pickled herring insist there’s no evidence for that. Soon, guests of traditional buffet, including
is Malin’s homemade gubbröra (‘old bloke’s mix’), a all ages are holding hands and circling the pole, strawberry cake — served,
salty spread combining chopped, soused and spiced a ritual that’s followed by a bonfire and yet more most untraditionally,
sprats, hard-boiled eggs, mayonnaise and dill. food. When I finally bed down, I’m satisfied the new after the maypole dances.
A friend of Christian’s has brought a silltårta, a cake season has well and truly been welcomed. getnogard.se

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 45
FEASTS

S C OT L A N D

Burns Night
Each January, indulgent and entertaining
feasts take place across Scotland to honour
national poet Robert Burns. Words: Joel Porter

The first Burns supper was held in 1801, five years after
the death of Scotland’s beloved poet, Robert Burns,
setting a template that’s remained largely unchanged
since: music, poetry, food, whisky. Held each year on or
around 25 January (the writer’s birthday), Burns suppers
traditionally begin with a reading of his poem, Selkirk
Grace, along with a soup such as cullen skink. Next,
a platter of haggis is paraded around the room, often
accompanied by a bagpiper, before being presented to
‘the addresser’, who then recites Burns’s poem, Address to
a Haggis. After several courses and many whisky-fuelled
toasts in between, the night is rounded off with a rousing
rendition of Auld Lang Syne. Here’s where you can join in.

The Globe Inn, Dumfries

The poet’s favourite howff (haunt), The Globe Inn
understandably makes a huge affair of Burns Night.
The 2025 event will include entertainment led by piper
Callum Watson, as well as special guests from the Howff
Club, a set of local Burns enthusiasts. There’ll also be a
five-course feast with all the traditional toasts, including
the Toast to the Lassies. 25 January; £65 per person.
globeinndumfries.co.uk

Meldrum House, Aberdeenshire

Given its location, a mile from Glen Garioch Distillery,
whisky is naturally a standout feature of the celebrations
at Meldrum House hotel. There’s a Glen Garioch cocktail
on arrival and a dram is served alongside the haggis,
which itself comes doused in a sauce made with the
distillery’s Founders Reserve whisky. A Highland dance
performance is followed by a lively ceilidh band.
24 and 25 January; £70 per person. meldrumhouse.com

IMAGES: PRESTONFIELD HOUSE; DOUGLAS MCCALLUM/COPPERTREE PHOTOGRAPHY; GETTY

Ubiquitous Chip, Glasgow
Expect a twist on tradition at the Ubiquitous Chip’s
Beyond Burns event, where performers from the National
Theatre of Scotland will present fresh interpretations of
the bard’s works. On the menu there’s venison haggis,
hogget shoulder with mussel ragu and seaweed broth
and Arbroath smokie mousse with quail egg. The night
isn’t a total snub to tradition, however — after dinner,
there’s a ceilidh and a rendition of Auld Lang Syne.
23 January; £80 per person. ubiquitouschip.co.uk

Prestonfield House, Edinburgh

This hotel’s whitewashed exterior comes into its own
on Burns Night, when it’s used as a canvas for a huge
projected image of the poet to greet guests. The 2025
menu promises haggis with neeps and tatties, plus roast
Cullen skink, a traditional
Angus beef with whisky-glazed carrots and, to finish it
Scottish soup of smoked
fish, potatoes and onion off, sticky toffee pudding with Drambuie butterscotch
From top: The whitewashed and clotted cream ice cream. Guest speakers will include
Prestonfield House; Burns broadcaster Jay Crawford and historian Ian Landles.
Night at The Globe Inn 25 January; £85 per person. prestonfield.com

46 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 RESERVE A TABLE

History Never Tasted So Good

Enjoy unforgettable stories, expertly crafted cocktails, and world-class cuisine at
The Globe Inn — Robert Burns’ favorite haunt and one of Scotland's most historic pubs.
With over 150 Single Cask, Single Malt whiskies, immersive tours of the Burns Rooms,
and a Michelin-listed, award-winning menu, we offer a true taste of Scottish heritage.

The Globe Inn, Dumfries - 56 High Street, Dumfries, DG1 2JA | 01387 323010
www.globeinndumfries.co.uk
 OY S T E R S , A B A L O N E , S E A U R C H I N S — TA S M A N I A’ S
B R I S K WAT E R S P R O D U C E S O M E O F T H E W O R L D ’ S
BEST SEAFOOD, BRINY INGREDIENTS BEING
RECL AIMED BY INDIGENOUS CHEFS AND
REINVENTED ON EAST ASIAN-INSPIRED MENUS

WORDS: NOL A JA MES. PHOTOGR APHS: ADA M GIBSON

48 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 49
TA S M A N I A

here aren’t many Next, Tomas slides his knife between an

capital cities abalone’s lip and shell, working the blade to
where you can go release the muscle. “We’re going to do this the
10 minutes out of Tasmanian way,” he says, using a mallet to
town and be in the tenderise the abalone, now encased in a food
snow, or under a bag on the deck. “If you try it plain, you get a
waterfall,” says skipper Tomas Thiele as he sense of the natural flavour.” I skewer some
steers our canary yellow touring boat down the raw with a toothpick. It’s firm and a bit chewy,
D’Entrecasteaux Channel. with slight salinity. Once cooked in butter,
You can tell Tomas grew up in Tasmania garlic and lemon, it will taste like calamari.
because he can pronounce D’Entrecasteaux. As we eat, Tomas breaks down a southern
I’ve lived here for years and I still can’t. He also rock lobster plucked from a local crayfish pot
knows where to find two highly prized exports. earlier this morning — you get a lot of meat
Purchased locally, sea urchin sells for A$275 from a lobster if you know what you’re doing, I
(£140) for 100 grams, and abalone for A$450 surmise — and shucks a few more oysters. “I’d
(£230) per kilogram, so plucking them straight pick this over a sit-down restaurant any day,”
from the water holds high appeal. one of my companions aptly acknowledges.
It’s just after 11am when we dock at Back on dry land, Hobart’s waterfront is
Partridge Island, an hour from the Tasmanian the epicentre of the capital’s seafood scene.
capital of Hobart, which serves as a lunch stop A working port since colonisation, many of
for Pennicott Wilderness Journeys’ seafood its hotels, bars and restaurants are housed in
tour. It’s September, early springtime in chilly heritage-listed sandstone buildings along the
southern Tasmania, where icy, nutrient-rich River Derwent. Its picture-perfect backdrop
waters create the perfect marine microclimate. is Mount Wellington, or kunanyi in palawa
“The water is 12C, which is warming up,” kani — the only Aboriginal language left in
Tomas tells me as he pulls on a wetsuit. I dip Tasmania/lutruwita, which rarely uses capital
one hand into the channel and decide it feels letters with an exception being people’s names.
much cooler. While Tomas free-dives, I eat I’m hunting for scallop pie. Featuring whole
Pacific oysters simmered in local sparkling scallops cooked in a curried bechamel sauce
wine, their briny flesh complemented by a and encased in flaky pastry, it’s a uniquely
boozy tang. Pacifics, introduced in the 1940s Tasmanian offering, with a key ingredient
as a fast-growing alternative to the rare native — Keen’s Traditional Curry Powder — first
angasi oyster, are loved for their buttery, saline produced here in the early 1860s. Harbour
meat and their ocean-cleaning properties. Lights Cafe, a wooden building sandwiched
Thirty minutes later, Tomas resurfaces with between Christian organisation Mission to
two abalone and a mesh bag of spiny urchins. Seafarers and a ship supply store, has been Clockwise from top:
I hold a grapefruit-sized urchin in my hand, making the pies since the 1970s. The waiter A Pennicott seafood tour
its purple spines waggling in slow motion, delivers the A$21 (£11) iteration and, as is to Partridge Island, south of

as Tomas smacks the base of another with customary, I remove the lid and count the Hobart; a native Tasmanian
sea urchin; Tomas Thiele
a butter knife, releasing its fragile insides. scallops. There are four, a little on the lean
prepares to dive for wild
The edible parts are reproductive organs, side. The shortcrust pastry is well made and
abalone and native sea urchins
he explains. He gives them a quick rinse in the sauce has a decent kick, but it’s no match
Previous pages, from
seawater before we eat them whole, plucking for a wallaby pie — another local speciality. left: Assorted seafood at
them out with our fingers. They taste sweet Later that evening, it’s time for some Omotenashi restaurant,
and minerally, with a concentration of flavour seafood innovation at Aløft, a tasting menu- Hobart; seals on the rocky
that will naturally fade within a few hours. only restaurant on Brooke Street Pier. banks of the River Derwent

50 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 51
52 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 TA S M A N I A

Owned and run by Tasmanian chef Christian United’ T-shirt, Kitana leads us around her
Ryan, the venue’s harbour views through its native grocery store. We inspect an indigenous S E A FO O D & W I N E
floor-to-ceiling windows are spectacular, with cherry tree, or lintalumala, laden with tiny
masthead lights twinkling out on the water. green orbs which will be perfect for chutney Lucinda
Aløft’s seafood-forward menu pays homage when ripe, and kunzea flowers that smell like Try biodynamic and natural
to its location, though the crayfish tattoo on thyme and rosemary with a hint of lemon, said wines, with glass options on
Christian’s right forearm is a more permanent to be good for the immune system. “At palawa verbal rotation. A blackboard
endorsement. And while the ingredients are kipli we have a great opportunity to show what menu of small plates highlights
local, his cooking is influenced by the flavours Aboriginal people can do when their land is seasonal ingredients such
of Thailand, Japan and China, which came returned. We’re slowly getting native edible as crayfish and courgettes.
to Australia by way of immigration. Sichuan plants back into Country, to promote how we lucindawine.com
pepper-tossed wallaby tartare is followed by live, and that we’re still here, thriving and
a raw Stanley Bay scallop doused in piquant surviving,” Kitana says, referring to the lands Molto
nahm jim green chilli sauce; yellowtail to which Aboriginal peoples are connected. This wine bar/bottle shop
kingfish is adorned with a textural sunflower As we snack on smoked wallaby and owned by the Lubiana
seed emulsion and punchy granny smith apple. wattleseed hummus under eucalyptus trees, winemaking family has local
I busy myself with a dirty martini while I ask about muttonbird, a short-tailed seabird. labels like the award-winning
Christian’s head chef, Cameron Brunton, “Most of our traditional food is seafood,” Kitana Tolpuddle chardonnay and
shucks Bruny Island-grown oysters. “It’s a says. “Muttonbird is one of the most unique Stefano Lubiana’s sparkling
way to hold on to summer through winter,” Aboriginal foods in lutruwita [Tasmania]. We rosé, excellent with oysters.
Cameron says as he spoons a luminous still harvest it today, which is great because it’s molto.wine
orange mignonette sauce — made from dried one of the oldest living food practices in the
nasturtium flowers — over my oyster. The world.” I’d love to try some, but the summer Sonny
flavour combination verges on synaesthesia, season lasts just a few weeks. “Imagine like… The queue for this 20-seater is
the oyster’s briny tingle followed by a wash of a fishy chicken,” Kitana says. “I marinate it in worth the wait. Its exceptional
earthy emulsion. kunzea honey and cook it over fire.” blackboard wine list ranges
I’ve eaten oysters at Aløft many times Somewhat less rustic, my next stop is the from, say, a steely Tassie
— the restaurant turns 10 next year — but nearby Lexus showroom. Hidden in the back riesling to blushing Sicilian rosé,
I’ve never had this dish, these flavours. “The is Omotenashi, a 10-seat kaiseki experience by with a short selection of snacks.
base starts as something traditional, then we chefs Lachlan Colwill and Sophie Pope, who sonny.com.au
throw in something local, and that hopefully moved here from South Australia with this
translates to something we haven’t eaten a concept in mind. “Our idea was that Tasmania Ogee
million times elsewhere,” Christian says. With and Japan have very similar produce, This slick North Hobart bistro
an attitude like that, I’d say Aløft’s best years particularly seafood,” Lachlan says. is the only venue other than
are still ahead. I arrive at 6.28pm, cutting it fine for the Omotenashi serving prized
10-minute arrival window allocated to corral a Jon’s Reserve oysters while the
Keeping culture alive group of strangers. Instead of a menu, Sophie wine list celebrates local talent,
The next afternoon, I drive 15 minutes out of hands out a list of suggestions, including the likes of Utzinger, Anim
Hobart to meet 24-year-old Kitana Mansell, keeping our grimy smartphones off the table Wine and Bubb and Pooley.
a proud palawa woman. Kitana runs palawa and treating the antique crockery gently. ogeehobart.com.au
kipli, a native food business and bush tucker Lachlan and Sophie work the open kitchen
tour at Risdon Cove, the site of the first British — a stone bench, a sink, a steam oven and a Institut Polaire
settlement in Tasmania in 1803. In an act of hibachi grill — with a near-choreographed A bar that’s also a cellar door
reconciliation, the government returned this elegance gleaned from twice-yearly trips to for Domaine Simha’s pinot noir,
land to the Aboriginal community in 1995. Japan. “Experience is everything,” Sophie chardonnay and riesling, all
Kitana tells me the cove was a source of says. “If we never left Tasmania, we’d be ethereal takes on Tasmania’s key
protein for her ancestors, before land clearing emulating knock-offs. If we throw ourselves grape varieties. The food menu
and the nearby zinc refinery altered the into ‘new’, it’s going to be a lot more exciting.” showcases the ocean’s finest.
ecosystem. I stand on a small footbridge on the I swipe a cube of sake-steamed abalone institutpolaire.com.au
east bank of timtumili minanya, the palawa through liver-spiked cream cheese and pop it
name for the Derwent. Below the water are in my mouth, followed by an oyster so large
abalone and angasi oysters. it warrants two bites. It’s a Jon’s Reserve,
There are eight of us here today — keen Lachlan explains. These prized Pacific oysters
gardeners, mostly, and all locals. Wearing pink are hand-turned in the water for twice as long Left: Kingfish at Aløft restaurant
high-top trainers and a ‘Sovereignty Stand as the standard issue, so they grow fatter and on the waterfront in Hobart

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 53
TA S M A N I A

Oysters at Aløft
Left: Omotenashi’s chefs
Lachlan and Sophie
prepare ingredients

sweeter. “It’s more the texture, to us. It’s a meatier While we wait for my modern iteration — a pan-
ESSENTIALS
oyster,” Lachlan says. fried blue-eye fillet with a swirl of pureed pumpkin
Thumb-sized pieces of school whiting arrive and tangy marinated courgette — I ask Will about GETTING THERE
next. “[School whiting] are 10 centimetres long,” the farmed Atlantic salmon on his menu. I eat & AROU ND
Lachlan says, which makes them easy to buy but salmon occasionally, but I’m cautious about it. Some Qantas, Singapore
difficult to prepare. “They have this super clean, local producers have been accused of misdeeds Airlines and
sweet flavour that reminds us of ayu, a Japanese ranging from water pollution to killing native Emirates fly from
river fish you can’t get here.” wildlife. Aquaculture in Macquarie Harbour, where Heathrow via

Hours pass as Lachlan and Sophie waltz through the endangered Maugean skate reside, is particularly Perth, Singapore
and Dubai
their 18-plate production, crafting an alternate problematic. Some restaurants — Omotenashi and
respectively to
universe so rich in detail it somehow seems only Aløft included — boycott salmon completely.
Melbourne, and
natural that you’d find the state’s best seafood in a Mures’s salmon is sourced from select farms
from there, it’s a
luxury car showroom. “This plate is from the Edo certified by the Aquaculture Stewardship 1h30m flight
period,” Sophie says as she clears a tiny blue dish Council (ASC), an independent body with strict to Hobart.
that held slivers of broadbill swordfish. “It’s about sustainability guidelines. Despite the controversy,
200 years old. But I tell people that after, because salmon is still popular, Will says. Many tourists W H E R E TO S TAY
it’s less stressful,” she says with a grin. don’t know about its ecological baggage. “The The Tasman,
Another antique, of sorts, lies across the whole point of aquaculture is growing food for in Hobart, has

waterfront at Mures Fish Centre, where I visit people to eat. Sustainability for wild fisheries doubles from
A$365 (£190), room
Mures Upper Deck, a recently renovated first-floor means making sure there’s fish left in the ocean.
only. marriott.com
restaurant overlooking Victoria Dock. At water level, From an aquaculture perspective, it’s about the
sister venue Mures Lower Deck churns out fish and impact [farming] has on the surrounding area,” he
H OW T O D O I T
chips, while Pearl and Co is all about oysters. says. “It’s a difficult one, because as a human you Abercrombie
I’m meeting Will Mure, whose parents George have an impact in everything you do.” & Kent offers
and Jill opened Mures Fish House in Battery Point People are quickly discovering what Tasmanians a six-night trip
back in 1973. Today, Will and his wife Jude run already know: it’s one of the planet’s most to Tasmania,
Mures — comprising three restaurants, a cocktail incredible places for food. And its seafood industry with flights, B&B
bar, two drop-line fishing boats, a processing is a big part of the reason why. Managing its accommodation

facility and a range of take-home products. growth to have a positive impact on both the and gourmet
experiences, from
I’ve come to eat blue-eye trevalla, which the environment and the economy will always be a
£3,995 per person.
family has drop-line fished since 1977. “Trevalla a la balancing act. “Fish farming needs to exist, because
abercrombiekent.
creme was my favourite when I was a kid,” Will says there aren’t enough wild fish to eat the way we
co.uk
of Mures’s then signature blue-eye fillet drenched do,” Omotenashi’s Sophie Pope had said (with
in a rich tarragon sauce. Everyone loves blue-eye the caveat that she doesn’t think salmon is right MORE INFO
because it’s an all-rounder, he says. “No bones, for Tasmanian waters). “Maybe we need to treat discovertasmania.
flaky white flesh, moist and easy to cook.” seafood more like the luxury item it is.” com.au

54 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Across the pond and into paradise in Northeast Florida, the enchanting barrier island
of Amelia Island invites you to sample amazing food, relax on its uncrowded beaches
and indulge yourself — surrounded by live oaks draped in Spanish Moss. Just a short
three-hour drive from Orlando, this is old Florida, with Southern Charm.
As they say, “Come and make memories.”

Ameliaisland.com
 DECONSTRUCT

TARTIFLET TE
This hearty French dish featuring potatoes, bacon,
onions and cheese has become an apres-ski classic,
but it’s a far more recent creation than it might seem

WORDS: CAROLINE MORRISH. PHOTOGR APHS: HANNAH HUGHES

F O O D S T Y L I S T S : A MY S T E P H E N S O N & P O P P Y B E RT R A M

There’s a saying in the Alps: ‘In Tartiflette We staple, but also something of a national And, far from being an established part of
Trust’. It can be seen emblazoned on T-shirts, obsession, its heritage is surprisingly confused. French food history, the version of the dish
hoodies and car bumper stickers across French There’s general agreement that the name that endures can only really be traced back
ski resorts and beyond, in honour of the of the dish derives from the regional dialect as far as the 1980s, when Alpine restaurants
gratin-style dish that’s gained iconic status word for potato, ‘tartifla’, and the first mention began serving something resembling a modern
— particularly among apres-skiers. of ‘tartiflette’ is said to be in chef François tartiflette. Then, in the late 1990s, in an attempt
Admittedly, the merchandise is a neat Massialot’s 18th-century book, Le Cuisinier to sell off an excess of imperfectly made
bit of marketing from a ski website, which Royal et Bourgeois. The recipe featured there, reblochon, the Syndicat Interprofessionnel
created the slogan a few years ago, but in the however, bears more resemblance to another du Reblochon — a collective of producers
mountainous Haute-Savoie region, from which traditional dish of that time — péla. This is a — published its own recipe for tartiflette. The
tartiflette originates, dedication to this hearty simpler combination of potatoes, cheese and Syndicat explains it modified the original péla
dish is genuine. “It’s a dish that’s synonymous onions, baked in the oven in a long-handled recipe ‘to use up stocks of reblochon that (at the
with skiing holidays or a feast after a long trek pan from which the dish takes its name. time) were a little too runny and to rejuvenate
in the depths of winter,” says chef Michel Roux This dish, like much traditional Haute- the ancestral recipe of the péla’.
Jr. “It’s the kind of meal that fills you with joy Savoie cuisine, is one that relies on often When it comes to the ‘official’ recipe, then,
and calories.” humble local ingredients. “The food of Savoie the Syndicat unsurprisingly says the dish can
Tartiflette is made with bacon lardons, evolved from times of real scarcity,” explains only be made with one cheese: reblochon.
potatoes and onion, splashed with a little chef and author Alex Jackson, who researched In its version, a wheel of reblochon is cut
white wine and topped with a generous the cooking of France’s borderlands while horizontally in two, with one half cut in half
amount of reblochon cheese — an intensely writing his book, Frontières. “The Savoyards again and laid on top of the other ingredients
flavoured, creamy cheese with a ripe smell and have done well to develop a delicious, before baking. Some Savoyard chefs also like
nutty aftertaste — before being baked until simple cuisine from relatively few available to include cream, however this is a contentious
melty and golden. You’ll find it on the menus of ingredients and little outside input.” point, with the Syndicat saying a little creme
most Alpine ski resorts and chalets, as well as The recipe we recognise as tartiflette today fraiche is allowed but that the dish ‘must not
being served outdoors at markets and events still makes use of local produce, but the be swimming in cream’.
— and cooked in many Savoyard homes. Yet, addition of the reblochon makes the whole Reblochon has Appellation d’Origine
for a recipe that’s become not only a regional thing seem less humble and more decadent. Protegee status, meaning it can only be

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 57
 D E C O N S T RU C T

made by an approved group of farmers using layering it with the potato, before topping
specific methods and milk from three Alpine with yet more cheese. It also uses a whole
breeds of cows. And while the Syndicat and bottle of wine between eight people, whereas
many cooks consider it to be a crucial part of the Syndicat calls for just two glasses
a tartiflette, there are chefs who dare to use (apremont, chignin or rousette, all dry and
other cheeses. James Martin, for example, has lightly fruity wines from the Savoie) for the
a version using tomme, which is also produced same size of dish.
in the Alps but is lower in fat and therefore Other than onions and cheese, tartiflette
less creamy. Martin also suggests you can use traditionally doesn’t feature any other
gruyere, taleggio or well-aged camembert for a flavourings, although the Syndicat concedes
similarly gooey effect. In his cookbook, Cheese, nutmeg as an optional extra for those who
Michel Roux (Sr) has a recipe for Aletsch want to ‘spice up the dish’. Some chefs have,
tartiflette, which uses Aletsch Grand Cru, a however, put their own spins on it. Mary
full-fat Swiss cheese, in place of the traditional Berry, for instance, has a recipe for a chicken
variety. Meanwhile, morbiflette is a variation tartiflette traybake, which resembles the
of the dish using morbier cheese, from the Jura classic, complete with reblochon, but features
village of the same name. the additions of button mushrooms and
As for the potatoes, the Syndicat suggests chicken breasts wrapped in parma ham. Paul
firm-fleshed varieties such as roseval or belle Hollywood, meanwhile, is one of several
fontenay. Alex Jackson says a good approach cooks to make a tartiflette pizza, with all the
is to go for something between waxy and classic ingredients topping a bread base. And
floury, with his preference being red varieties. on Instagram, Gizzi Erskine has served a
And while some recipes say to simply fry the Many cooks consider recipe that includes gnocchi alongside cubes
potatoes before layering up and baking, he of potato.
recommends boiling and steam drying before reblochon a crucial part The latter, while certainly not traditional,
frying, in order to get them golden and crisp, of a tartiflette, but some isn’t as outlandish as it may seem. In fact,
achieving what he sees as the perfect finish. another Savoyard dish, croziflette, includes all
Jackson is also an advocate for adding water
chefs dare to use other the same ingredients as tartiflette except for
to the potato, bacon and a mixture of creme cheeses, from tomme or potatoes, which are replaced by crozets — a
fraiche and double cream. “The key is to do local square-shaped pasta. And while lardons
this before the cheese and baking, to ensure
gruyere to taleggio or are an essential part of the original recipe,
the end result will be nice and saucy,” he says. well-aged camembert Savoyard institution Chalet La Pricaz offers
The business behind the In Tartiflette a vegetarian version, where courgette is used
We Trust merchandise also has opinions instead of bacon.
on how to make the dish. Skipass.com has However you choose to make it, there is
published its own recipe, which it boldly claims the question of what to serve alongside this
is ‘the true recipe for tartiflette’ and has been indulgent comfort food dish. Most chefs find a
served by its chefs at ski events and gatherings light green salad with a little mustard dressing
for years. It comes with the passionate preface is all that’s needed, although some offer a side
that ‘a real tartiflette cannot be improvised: of pickles to cut through the richness; Michel
between the preparation, the making of the Roux Jr, for example, suggests pickled pearl
onion confit and the cooking, do not count onions as the perfect accompaniment. But it
less than two hours’. Its version of the dish really doesn’t need to be any more complex
is notable for its generosity of ingredients, than that — as long as, like the Savoyards, you
cutting extra reblochon into strips and trust in tartiflette.

1705 Late 1990s 2022

The word ‘tartiflette’ Le Syndicat UK restaurant chain Côte
is mentioned in Interprofessionnel du introduces tartiflette to its
Le Cuisinier Royal et Reblochon publishes the winter menu, bringing
Bourgeois, written by first ‘official’ recipe for a the regional dish to
chef François Massialot. modern tartiflette. Britain’s masses.

TIMELINE

13th century 1980s 2001 2023

Reblochon is invented Restaurants in the Skipass.com adopts the The world’s largest
when farmers in the Alps reportedly start slogan ‘In Tartiflette tartiflette is produced in
Thônes Valley use excess serving a dish known We Trust’, using it on Grenoble. Weighing a
milk they aren’t selling to as ‘tartiflette’ to skiers merchandise, securing the ton, it contains 220 wheels
turn into cheese. and visitors. dish’s legendary status. of reblochon.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 59
Alex Jackson’s 1 onion, finely sliced Meanwhile, fry the bacon over a medium-high heat until
tartiflette 100ml dry white wine lardons in a large frying pan. brown and crisping up without
Along with raclette and fondue, 3 tbsp creme fraiche (or 6 tbsp if you When the fat is rendered, being crunchy all the way
tartiflette is one of Savoie’s most have no double cream) add half the butter and the though. Transfer the potatoes,
famous dishes. This is the version ski 3 tbsp double cream (or 6 tbsp if you onion with a little pinch of once browned, to a gratin
resorts have made famous; it fairly have no creme fraiche) salt. Fry slowly until soft and dish big enough to fit them all
closely follows the ‘official’ recipe olive oil, for frying golden-brown. without spilling out over the
of the Syndicat Interprofessionnel a half-wheel (approximately Pour in the white wine and top. Pour over the onion and
du Reblochon — and there’s no 250g) of reblochon cheese, cut simmer for 1 min until reduced cream mixture and gently stir
denying it’s delicious. horizontally (keeping the rind on) to 2 tbsp, then add the cream(s) through. Lay the half-wheel of
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 4 0 M I N S green salad, to serve and a good 2 tbsp water. Mix cheese over the top.
well, then pour into a bowl and Bake in the oven for 15–20 mins
INGREDIENTS METHOD rinse and dry the pan. until the cheese has browned
750g potatoes (a red variety, Heat the oven to 200C, When the potatoes have and melted fully. Serve hot
between waxy and floury, is best), fan 180C, gas 6. Simmer the steamed dry, they can be fried. alongside a green salad.
peeled and cut into 1.5cm pieces potatoes in a saucepan of lightly Reheat the clean pan, add a Taken from Frontières: The Food
150g smoked bacon lardons salted water until just cooked, little oil and the remaining of France’s Borderlands, by Alex
30g unsalted butter then drain and allow to steam. butter and sauté the potatoes Jackson (£26, Pavilion Books).

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 61
D E C O N S T RU C T

WHERE TO E AT
Whether it’s the mountains of France or the streets of
London, there are plenty of places to try tartiflette

LE FRETI, ANNECY cornichons, salad and other and comes in a classic before setting up her pizza uses St Sunday’s — a
This Annecy institution cheeses from the farm, with format, as well as in own cheese-and-wine- buttery, glossy cheese
and shrine to all things house-made ice cream and versions with blue cheese, focused establishment inspired by reblochon
cheese is celebrating its coffee to finish. smoked salmon or in Cheltenham. There’s and made in Cumbria.
50th anniversary this year. restaurant-a-la-ferme.fr porcini mushrooms. a weekly raclette night, The pizza is then finished
Located on one of the chalet-savoyard.fr but tartiflette (pictured) off with smoky guanciale
medieval town’s cobbled CHÂLET LA PRICAZ , is a permanent fixture cured pork, sliced
streets, the restaurant TA L LO I R E S - M O N T M I N ’ F L E T T E , LO N D O N on the menu. Made with potato and onion.
serves a traditional High above Lake Annecy, You’ll find French chef reblochon, it features thecheesebar.com/rind
menu of sharing boards, Châlet la Pricaz stands Jean-Pierre Derian serving the additions of double
including local cheeses atop a mountain pass his version of tartiflette cream and caramelised C H A M PAG N E A N D
and charcuterie, as well constructed by monks at food markets across onions, plus a little garlic, F RO M AG E , LO N D O N
as fondue, raclette and in the Middle Ages. The south London. Having and is served as a sharing The window of this shop
tartiflette with green salad. wooden chalet, with its grown up eating the dish along with salad and bistro in Covent
lefreti.fr cliff-edge terrace, is the dish, the Frenchman has and pickled cucumbers. Garden is filled with French
perfect place to enjoy developed his own recipe, domaine16.co.uk cheeses and cured meats
FERME DE LA what’s regarded as one which he cooks in a huge sourced from independent
CHARBONNIÈRE, of the region’s best pan using large quantities R I N D BY T H E producers, while the walls
MENTHON tartiflettes — and spot of reblochon, serving it C O U RT YA R D DA I RY, are lined with bottles of
The cows are part of the the odd hang-glider with gherkins and pickled N O RT H YO R K S H I R E wine. There’s a handful of
dining experience at this while you’re at it. baby onions. Try it on a For a spin on traditional wooden tables at which
working farm and dairy. chaletlapricaz.com Saturday at North Cross tartiflette, head to this you can enjoy deli boards
The restaurant overlooks Road Market in Dulwich relaxed pizza, wine and or tartiflette, made to a
the cow sheds, which you L E C H A L E T S AVOYA R D, and Sundays at Herne Hill cheese outfit near the town traditional recipe but for
can tour before watching PA R I S Market. instagram.com/ of Settle. The barn-like the addition of pancetta on
IMAGE: SCG PHOTOGRAPHY

the cows being milked A piece of the Savoie in flette_tartiflette restaurant has views across top. If you’re feeling flush,
while you eat. The dairy’s Paris’s 11th arrondissement, the surrounding fields the restaurant suggests
own reblochon is the basis this cosy spot with DOMAINE 16, ESSEX and a menu of wood- pairing it with the 100%
for its tartiflette, which can pared-back wooden walls Chef and owner Stephanie fired pizzas made using pinot noir 2015 vintage
be enjoyed on its own or as specialises in Savoyard Ronssin trained in Paris artisan and homemade La Loge champagne.
part of a set menu, along ingredients and dishes. and worked in Michelin- British cheeses. A special champagneplusfromage.
with a mix of charcuterie, Tartiflette is the speciality starred restaurants this winter, the tartiflette co.uk

62 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 A FA M I LY M E A L O N T H E G R E N A D I N E I S L A N D O F B E Q U I A
ZI N G S W ITH C A RI B B E A N FL AVO U R S , FROM TH E LIME
A N D C AY E N N E - E N H A N C E D FRI E D FI S H TO TH E LO C A L
C I N N A MO N , N U TM E G , C LOV E A N D G I N G E R T H AT M A K E
M E AT S , C U R R I E S A N D R I C E S I N G O F T H E S U N S H I N E

WORDS: SAR AH BARRELL

PHOTOGR APHS: K AROLINA WIERCIGROCH

64 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 65
BREAKING BREAD

A LL I S Q U I E T I N TH E M A RKE T TH I S MO RN I N G . IT’ S
8A M A N D A PA RT FROM A C O U PLE O F BOYS STI C K-
A N D - LI N E FI S H I N G O FF TH E D O C K S I D E , TH E RE
A RE FE W S I G N S O F LI FE I N B EQ U I A’ S H A RBO U R .

“Yeah, it can be a slow start on Saturdays,” says Ruth. populous island, is the hub, home to a market that feeds
Some much-needed R&R for me, perhaps. Yesterday much of the Lesser Antilles, including Barbados.
evening, when the final ferry of the day deposited me Having stocked up at the market in St Vincent, Bequian
into Port Elizabeth from the neighbouring island of St butcher Francis Davis sets up his block portside, where he
Vincent, things were lively. Stalls lining the boardwalk cuts Ruth some pork chops and goat meat that her mum,
to Princess Margaret Beach were touting coconuts, Angela Hinkson, will cook for our lunch’s centrepiece
souvenirs and soursop ice lollies. Spiced rum punch was curry. “Grandma’s goat curry is legendary,” says Alyssa.
being pumped out of waterfront bar Rendezvous Lounge, Ruth nods, adding that some years ago, Angela was even
along with a reggae version of Neil Diamond’s I am... I asked to cook it at a function for the archipelago’s long-
Said at a volume so loud it could be felt as much as heard standing prime minister, Ralph Gonsalves.
— only to be bested by the arrival of a flatbed truck Shopping complete, we hop in one of the pick-up trucks
carrying a 10ft speaker stack blasting out pavement- with benches that serve as taxis to ascend the hills away
shaking dub and soca. from the port. Views of Admiralty Bay’s pincer-like
But, it seems, this morning it’s all about lie-ins — or promontory protecting the harbour and half-moons
grocery shopping if you know where to go. My host, Ruth of white sand are perfectly framed in the truck’s open
Hinkson, leads me to a cart tucked away by the portside back. As we round the hairpin bends up to the Hinkson
‘Parliament’, where people stand around waiting for family’s house in the Spring district, the temperature
arrivals and departures. It’s so called, Ruth says with a cools and the air thickens with damp woody scents from
smile, “because it’s where all the big stuff is discussed”. the surrounding forest, laced with the heady sweet-floral
She buys small spring onions, passionfruit and coconut perfume of cinnamon and ylang-ylang trees.
along with ‘flavour peppers’, mild capsicums that will The road tunnels through the vine-woven forest,
bring a customary Caribbean warmth to the dishes I’m emerging into a sunlit canyon where we ascend the steep
invited to share at her mother’s house today. driveway to Angela’s house. The handsome hillside villa
Alyssa DeShong, Ruth’s niece, bags the goods before has a wraparound first-floor terrace, under which we
we duck under the shade of some almond trees, away meet family friend Chippy, who’s cleaning some fish in
from the already fierce morning sun. Passing a clutch of a bucket of water. “Jackfish — part of our national dish
Clockwise from top
19th-century clapboard houses, all wood-shingle roofs when they’re served with breadfruit,” says the fisherman,
left: Quincy Small and
and gingerbread latticework trimmings, we reach T&C otherwise known as Ricardo Richards. “I caught them
Chippy carve coconuts
Fruits and Vegetables. Inside the small shack, owner just off Balliceaux,” he says pointing towards the island’s
to drink; a coastal road
Carlo Bracket selects the best of his plantain from surf-battered windward coast, and the small Grenadine near Port Elizabeth;
ceiling-strung bunches, apologising that he’s low on island beyond. I follow him upstairs to the kitchen, Angela seasons her
stock while he awaits the first ferry from St Vincent. As where he coats his catch in slices of fresh chilli and goat curry; jackfish
if on command, the big boat honks its arrival, bringing garlic, cayenne pepper and a local brand ‘all-purpose frying on the stove
with it the ginger, dasheen, arrowroot and other produce fish seasoning’ that’s a combination of various spices Previous pages from
that thrives in the fertile volcanic soils of Bequia’s including paprika, nutmeg, coriander, cumin and thyme. left: Princess Margaret

neighbouring island. It has also brought the butcher. Lots of prep is already underway. Marinades and Beach, named after
the British royal who
“He’s here!” says Ruth, and we follow two men seasonings are stacked up on the island around which
swam here in the
walking off the ferry shouldering a bath-sized ice box. the roomy kitchen centres, including a hefty litre bottle
1950s; plantain, tri
The 32 islands and cays that make up St Vincent & the that once held ketchup and now contains ‘green sauce’,
tri cakes and jackfish
Grenadines, strung through the eastern Caribbean Sea the ubiquitous Caribbean marinade. “It’s all from my are all seasoned with
between Grenada and St Lucia, are closely interlinked garden,” says Angela, appearing in the kitchen. “Parsley, island herbs and
by trade, culture and an efficient network of ferries and chives, thyme, sweet pepper, garlic. No vinegar. You only spices before being
cargo ships. St Vincent, the nation’s largest and most add vinegar when you’re making hot sauce,” she says. shallow-fried

66 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
omba Cabana Lodge, nestled on Nosy Komba island, Madagascar, invites guests into a symphony
of f lavours that dance upon the palate. The culinary experience is a poetic celebration of Malagasy
traditions, where fresh, locally sourced ingredients are transformed into exquisite desserts, delicately
infused with the enchanting aromas of vanilla, cinnamon, coconut, and homemade chocolate.
These sweet creations, crafted with love and local expertise, evoke the island’s natural bounty and
cultural richness.

w w w . ko m b a c a b a n a . c o m
 BREAKING BREAD

Like the adjoining living room, the kitchen has Meanwhile, Chippy is cutting pork off the bone to
soaring, pitched ceilings and is decked out in nautical make a stew, adding green sauce, cayenne, minced garlic
blues and whites, with shelves displaying the model and white onion, plus black, green and flavour pepper,
boats Bequia’s craftsmen are known for. A long tradition along with thyme from the garden. He sets this aside and
of boat building — from scale models to full-size turns back to the jackfish, coating them lightly in flour
schooners and whalers — and ever-present sea breezes seasoned with cayenne and black pepper, chilli and salt,
make the island a regional hub for sailing. From the before frying them on a high flame. “You want crisp skin.”
ground floor of the house, Angela runs a craft shop that he says. “Ten minutes each side, but rotate constantly.”
opens intermittently, selling model ships and It’s all go now, everyone jostling around the kitchen
silk-screen print fabric to cruise ship visitors. island and six-ring hob. Chippy browns the pork, adding
The kitchen opens on one side to the garden and on sugar, which melts and smokes, plus cloves “for a little
the other to the living room and terrace, where a group of flair”. Camillo chops spring onions, garlic and flavour
boys now arrive, led by Ruth’s 19-year-old son, Camillo. pepper, which Angela adds to the goat that’s marinating
“The minute that pot pops out, he pops in,” Angela says, in green sauce and Guyana curry powder — a blend
laughing. Her house, it seems, is the social centre of of Indian and Caribbean spices. Camillo then dashes
the Spring neighbourhood. Another of her grandsons, outside to get some ‘cinnamon bush’ (allspice) leaves,
21-year-old Tyler, parks himself on a living room sofa which he crushes and adds to the pot, releasing a mosaic
while his friend, Happy Feet (aka Quency Small, but of smells with top notes of lime, clove and nutmeg. “It’s
so called for his dance skills), heads to the terrace to like all the island spices in one plant,” says Ruth. “We
open some coconuts for us to drink. Ciel, the youngest add it to many things like porridge and tea.” Camillo
grandchild at six years old, charges out of a back room says he likes it in coffee. “That’s just weird,” laughs Ruth.
to pester Camillo for candy. Camillo is unmoved, gently Angela stirs water into the curry pot. “You need to wait
leading her to watch Ruth prepare the tri tri cakes. for it to boil off, but don’t let it dry out,” she says. “Before,
Tiny juvenile whitebait are a delicacy in St Vincent we didn’t have this.” She prods her spoon at the green
& the Grenadines; they’re battered and fried into tri tri pepper in the pot, a recent ingredient addition to island
cake patties. “We rinse them with water, lemon and lime, cuisine. “We used to use bird peppers; they grow by the
which removes the strongest fishy flavour,” says Camillo. house.” She rolls her eyes to indicate the chillies’ heat.
“I learnt to make them when I was about 15, by watching The kitchen is now heady with spices and steam, pots
Granny.” Ruth adds a small amount of finely diced garlic, bubbling, pans smoking. “When I’m alone, I eat simple,”
Above: Quincy, onions and green pepper to the bowl of tri tri, combining Angela tells me. “Maybe some boiled fish and vegetables.
Chippy and Ruth this with fish seasoning, curry powder, baking powder Fruit from the garden. But when the boys come, I make
serve lunch at the and flour. “The citrussy water from the fish makes a thick more of a spread.” And a spread it certainly is, soon laid
kitchen island batter,” she says, mixing it together. out on the kitchen island, people serving themselves.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 69
BREAKING BREAD

LO C A L FL AVO U R S

Callaloo soup
This staple dish is made with
dasheen leaves rather than the
Chinese spinach used elsewhere
in the Caribbean, along with
meat and root veg such as
sweet potato and cassava. A
dash of coconut milk is added
before serving for richness. The
soup is seen as a powerhouse;
stallholders in St Vincent’s
Kingstown Market call to
passersby advertising callaloo’s
strength-giving properties.

Jackfish & breadfruit

The national dish showcases
breadfruit, a fibrous vegetable
that grows in abundance here.
It’s traditionally roasted whole
on an open fire, then peeled
and sliced. Ubiquitous, and
cooked into both sweet or
savoury dishes, the fruit has
an annual festival in August in
St Vincent.

Madongo dumplings
This indigenous dish is made
from native arrowroot flour,
The noise drops to the sound of cutlery clacking, the combined with coconut and
concentrated work of making yourself the best plate. The spices such as nutmeg, ginger
food is a rainbow of Caribbean colours: reds and yellows, and cinnamon, then baked
earthy browns and deep vegetal greens. or fried. St Vincent and the
Lacking a glass, I grab an empty jam jar and pour Grenadines is one of few places
myself some fresh passionfruit and lime juice, gaining in the world that cultivates
a nod of approval from Angela. “Local style,” she smiles arrowroot flour for trade. These
Filing out to the balcony, we sit wherever we find a spot home-cooked dumplings are
and dig in, the roof overhead cracking in the sun. The of Kalinago Carib origin and
tri tri cakes — soft inside, golden-crisp outside — are are best sampled in Sandy Bay,
salty with a hint of spice. The jackfish are crisp, zesty St Vincent on Heroes’ Day (14
with lime and served with salty fried plantain. I marvel March) at street food stalls.
at the pork, hot and richly spiced with a molasses-like
coating of sauce that has a Christmassy timbre. The Fungee
showstopper, though, is the goat; silky and tender, with Also called cou-cou, this
a curry sauce that’s almost sweet, eliciting mutters of cornmeal-based dish, with
appreciation and a “thank you, sister” from Chippy. diced onion, garlic and often
The eating is done in minutes, but the postprandial chopped okra, is the polenta
chat — of old recipes and the abundance of cashew, of the Caribbean and a family
breadfruit, mango and coconut in the garden — goes favourite with the Hinksons.
on, literally, until the cows come home. A trio from the “I like cooking it outside on the
family’s 20-strong herd hoof up the hillside, caramel stones [open fire],” says Angela,
coats gleaming in the setting sun. And with that, I hear who boils the cornflour mix in
the last ferry of the day honking its approach, calling seasoned water, sometimes
me back to St Vincent. I leave with a vociferous round of adding pigeon peas and
goodbyes, intermingled with some washing-up debate coconut milk. “You can eat it
over who owns the good meat knife and Ciel once again fresh or put it in the fridge
clamouring for candy. and fry it for breakfast,” she
says. Serve it on its own or
H OW TO D O I T: Virgin Atlantic flies to St Vincent (via Barbados), Above: The lunch table, with with steamed fish, saltfish or
from which frequent ferries and flights go to nearby Bequia. a garden salad, tri tri cakes, chicken stew.
Spring Hotel has doubles from US$120 (£95), B&B. seasoned rice, fried jackfish,
springhotelbequia.com discoversvg.com goat curry and pork stew

70 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Proudly Cornish, we love our local producers. Our suppliers are all
based within 10 miles of us and are deeply connected to the land,
our history and the rich farming heritage of Cornwall. Everything in
our pasty is a true reflection of your doorstep here in Cornwall. As
long as people have been eating pasties, our Cornish land has been
providing for them.

Buy our Pasties online

annspasties.co.uk
Use code MAG10% to get 10% off
 C IT Y B R E A K

STOCKHOL M
The Swedish capital offers a fine fusion of international and
New Nordic flavours, alongside homely traditional dining

W O R D S : A D R I E N N E M U R R AY N I E L S E N

Gamla Stan is the historic

core of Stockholm
Right: Savant Bar serves natural
wines and seasonal food

72 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 In a city known for cutting-edge design, meanwhile, is the country’s only three- natural wines, seasonal vegetable-led
technology, fashion and music, it’s perhaps Michelin-starred establishment, taking diners dishes and Swedish cheeses.
unsurprising that there’s a dynamic culinary on a creative journey through contemporary All across Stockholm, local produce blends
scene to be found in Stockholm. From Nordic dishes infused with Japanese and with ingredients and techniques from the
classic Swedish cooking to innovative Nordic French culinary techniques. Mediterranean, Middle East and beyond.
gastronomy, the food culture of Scandinavia’s Yet, there’s more to eating out in Stockholm This fusion of flavours can be found at
largest capital continues to evolve, as than fine dining. Spread across 14 main Hötorgshallen, a multicultural food hall in
ambitious chefs experiment with tastes islands, each of the city’s districts has a the heart of the city selling both ingredients
and techniques that are at the same time distinct character and culinary scene. The and bites to eat. And in a former factory
traditional and modern, local and global. crowded medieval alleyways of Gamla Stan are in Slakthusområdet, an old meatpacking
Two decades ago, legendary chef Mathias a tourist magnet and go-to for classic Swedish district, popular recent opening Solen dishes
Dahlgren was the first Swede to sign the New food, with restaurants typically serving up a helping of sunshine via Greek, Spanish
Nordic Kitchen Manifesto, a movement that husmanskost, or ‘home-style cooking’, such and Italian dishes. Meanwhile, a wave of hip
swept the region, spurring experimental as köttbullar, the meatballs immortalised by restaurants pays homage to Japan, using the
cooking based on seasonal and local IKEA, and staples such as pickled herring. finest Nordic seafood. The standout is Sushi
ingredients. That ethos still inspires kitchens To the north there’s commercial Norrmalm, Sho, in Vasastan, which serves a surprisingly
across Stockholm; however, today’s talented further south there’s cool and laid-back affordable Michelin-starred omakase menu in a
IMAGES: GETTY; FRANCES MARIAS

food entrepreneurs are taking contemporary Södermalm, then smart and upmarket tiny, white tiled space seating 14 diners.
Swedish cuisine in exciting new directions. Östermalm is in the east. Further north Alongside all this you’ll find everything
Prestigious fine-dining venues are dotted is the down-to-earth neighbourhood of you’d expect in one of the world’s coolest cities:
around the city, and a dozen have Michelin Vasastan, with its crop of unpretentious a proliferation of plant-based dining, next-
stars. Among them, Dahlgren’s latest venture, bistros, including Lilla Ego, which serves generation coffee roasteries, craft breweries,
Seafood Gastro, is an exploration of marine rustic Swedish food, and Främmat, which cocktail bars and artisan bakeries. Step beyond
ingredients, from shellfish to seaweed. Lauded offers French-inspired small plates. Savant Stockholm’s historic heart and you’ll find a
chef Björn Frantzén’s eponymous restaurant, Bar, meanwhile, is the place to visit for thriving food scene that’s ripe for exploring.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 73
 A D AY I N

ÖSTER M AL M
Spanning eastwards from the inner city,
Östermalm is Stockholm at its poshest.
Among tree-lined boulevards and ochre and
salmon-pink residential buildings are some
of the city’s most affluent addresses, along
with high-end fashion boutiques, fascinating
museums and fine-dining restaurants.
Grab a pistachio croissant and sip quality
coffee at relaxed Pascal Kaffebar before
exploring Östermalm’s waterfront. Admire
the ornate art nouveau facade of Dramaten,
the Royal Dramatic Theatre, before window
shopping — or splashing the cash — at classic
design store Svenskt Tenn. You’ll find an array
fabrics and furnishings in vivid botanical
patterns. Then, if you like, hop on board a boat
tour to savour Stockholm from the water.
For lunch, walk inland to Restaurang
Oxenstiernan, set within a cosy orange
cottage surrounded by greenery. It’s known
for its sustainable ethos and carefully sourced
ingredients, such as Swedish mackerel with
fennel and fermented tomatoes. Afterwards,
head around the corner to the Swedish History
Museum for a crash-course on the country’s
past, from the Vikings to the modern age.
Loop back towards the city centre, calling
at Östermalms Saluhall. Built in 1888 and
recently restored, this gourmet food hall sells
a range of local cheeses, cured meats and
seafood. Browse the counters or pull up a seat
to soak in the old-world ambience with a glass
of wine and some kräftor (boiled crayfish).
For dinner, head to casual-chic Restaurang
Hantverket. Here, TV chef Stefan Ekengren
has given Swedish cuisine a modern makeover,
serving up appetising small plates including
hasselback potatoes topped with bleak fish
roe, and beef carpaccio with jerusalem
artichokes, gruyere and hazelnuts.
Fancy a nightcap? Try Omaka, a slick
craft beer microbrewery, or enjoy the low-key
atmosphere at A Bar Called Gemma, where
creative cocktails are accompanied by an
indie-rock soundtrack.

Clockwise from top: Flowering quince sorbet with

roasted hay and apple granita, compressed apple
in apple ice syrup at Ekstedt; Drop Coffee is an award-
winning roastery; Östermalms Saluhall food market

F I N E - D I N I N G R E S TA U R A N T S

Brutalisten Ekstedt Aira

Each dish at Brutalisten is crafted from a Everything at chef Niklas Ekstedt’s Michelin- In a waterside location on Djurgården, Aira has
single ingredient (although salt and water are starred restaurant is cooked over fire — whether two Michelin stars and a sleek and airy dining
allowed). This experiment may raise eyebrows, it’s a wood-fire pit or charcoal grill. Guests space overlooking an expansive open kitchen.
but the skilled chefs have risen to the challenge, begin in the kitchen with oysters touched by Chefs in tall white toques prepare the exquisite
creating pared-back but inventive plates of flames, before settling in to the dining room for Nordic menu, featuring dishes such as halibut
flavourful tomatoes, a duo of monkfish and the standout dishes like seaweed-fired langoustine with jalapeño and tender pigeon breast with
signature dairy cow tartare. brutalisten.com and juniper-smoked reindeer. ekstedt.nu morels and liquorice. aira.se

74 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 A D AY I N

SÖDER M AL M
To the south of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s renovation. At the top, you’ll find recently
medieval old town, is the island of Södermalm, opened fine-dining spot Gondolen. It offers
a former working-class district that’s evolved a pricey-but-worth-it Swedish- and French-
into a cultural and culinary hotspot, filled inspired menu, with dishes such as pan-fried
with down-to-earth dining, vintage stores and pikeperch in champagne sauce, as well as
laid-back nightlife. unbeatable views, plush decor and live jazz.
Kick off the day at award-winning roastery Come back down to earth by strolling to
Drop Coffee, by Mariatorget metro station. The lively SoFo (meaning ‘south of Folkungagatan’),
artisan coffee, brewed from organic, Fairtrade known for its independent boutiques and
beans, is a must for connoisseurs. Fuelled up second-hand stores selling homewares,
with caffeine and a classic Swedish cinnamon clothing and vinyl. End with dinner at
bun, climb the hilly, cobbled streets towards Nytorget square, where Bar Agrikultur is
Monteliusvägen, a clifftop path that rewards an intimate, unpretentious restaurant with
your efforts with sweeping city panoramas. friendly service and a changing menu of M E ATBA L L S P OT S
Passing historic townhouses, descend Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern-inspired
again to the waterfront and the world-class small plates. Must-tries include the sweet- Meatballs for the People
Fotografiska gallery. This former warehouse and-salty brined cucumber, cream cheese and You certainly won’t leave
holds superb exhibitions on both emerging honey, and harissa-spiced scallops. An eclectic hungry after visiting this
and internationally renowned photographers. mix of art and taxidermy hangs on the walls, convivial joint in Södermalm
Retrace your steps to the Slussen crossroads, while outdoor street-side tables are perfect for (pictured above), which is
this time taking the historic elevator, people-watching in warmer weather. nothing short of a meatball
Katarinahissen, to the footbridge 125ft up. Finally, wrap up your evening at well-loved extravaganza. Diners choose
A 1936 landmark, it only recently restarted local wine bar Folii, which serves classic from a dozen different options
operations after a 13-year closure and varieties alongside the sommeliers’ new finds. including boar, reindeer and
vegan, all served with the
traditional accompaniments
of mash, pickles and
lingonberries. Classic cocktails,
meanwhile, are given a
lingonberry twist. meatball.se

Tradition
A welcome escape from Gamla
Stan’s busy tourist trail, this
stylish Scandi restaurant is a
worthy lunch or dinner stop.
As the name suggests, the
menu focuses on Swedish
staples including hearty plates
of meatballs, which are served
IMAGES: EMMA JOHANSSON; MEATBALLS FOR THE PEOPLE; CHRISTIAN GUSTAVSSON; GETTY

with mashed potatoes, pickled

cucumber and lingonberries.
Also worth trying are the
pickled herrings, potato
dumplings and Arctic char,
washed down with local beer or
aquavit. restaurangtradition.se

Operabaren
This charismatic establishment
opened over a century ago and
is full of old-world charm, with
an atmospheric wood-panelled
dining room and art nouveau
stained-glass ceiling. The menu
sticks to traditional dishes
including meatballs, as well as
toast skagen, a Swedish classic
of fried bread topped with
prawn salad. operabaren.se

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 75
 The counter at the original branch
of Vete-Katten on Kungsgatan
Left: Assorted buns at Vete-Katten

ESSENTIALS
SPOTLIGHT

FIK A GETTING THERE

Scandinavian
Airlines, British
In a nutshell, fika simply means coffee, cake and creamy gateaux, pastries and confectionery since 1928. Airways, Ryanair
catching up. It belongs to the idea of living well, an art It’s now helmed by award-winning pastry chef Johan and Norwegian
the Swedes have perfected; taking a pause to recharge Sandelin, and known for its fanciful layer cakes. Try all fly to Stockholm
over coffee and a sweet treat with friends or coworkers is a slice of the princess cake, filled with vanilla cream Arlanda airport

an everyday ritual many Swedes cherish. and coated in green marzipan, or a tempting Sarah from major cities
across the UK.
Coffee-drinking gained popularity in the 18th century, Bernhardt, filled with chocolate ganache.
but it’s thought the fika custom became embedded in At the modern Fosch Artisan Pâtisserie, French pastry
W H E R E TO S TAY
Swedish culture with the arrival of patisseries a century chef Damien Foschiatti uses seasonal ingredients to
Villa Dagmar in
later. Swedes now rank among the world’s keenest coffee produce irresistible creations like framboise, a white Östermalm has
consumers, and the average person eats more than 200 chocolate mousse made with a raspberry crémeux. double rooms
cinnamon buns (kanelbullar) per year. Meanwhile, in the centre of Djurgården, from £190, room
In Stockholm, this strong sweet tooth and passion for Rosendal’s Trädgård is one of Stockholm’s loveliest only. Generator in
coffee has given rise to a string of artisan roasters and places for fika. Set among greenhouses, flower beds Norrmalm offers
world-class bakeries and patisseries. Among the oldest and vegetable patches, the garden cafe spoils guests double rooms from

is Vete-Katten on Kungsgatan, a traditional konditori with slices of cake and small circular raspberry bites £60, room only.
hotelvilladagmar.
(patisserie) that’s been tempting Stockholmers with its called hallongrottor.
com
staygenerator.com

H OW T O D O I T
BA K E R I E S British Airways
Holidays offers two
Lillebrors Bageri Stora Bageriet Svedjan Bageri nights at Radisson
The warm, buttery cardamom buns Wafts of cinnamon greet Green-tiled and bare-brick interiors Blu Waterfront
churned out by this small bakery in customers at this popular spot, create a relaxed Nordic vibe at this Hotel for £170 per

Vasastan aren’t only a contender which specialises in artisan bread Södermalm bakery, making for an person, based on
IMAGES: SUSANNA BLÅVARG

two sharing, room

for Stockholm’s best, but arguably and pastries crafted from organic, inviting place to sit and tuck into
only, in March 2025,
Sweden’s. There’s often a queue seasonal ingredients. Savoury bites a cinnamon bun, flaky cardamom
including flights
outside ‘Little Brother’s’ door for such as toasted sandwiches and swirl or pain au chocolat. It also sells
from Heathrow.
the pastries, bread rolls and perfect simple breakfast rolls are also on cheese from the owner’s parents’ ba.com
sourdough loaves. lillebrors.se the menu. storabageriet.com farm. svedjanbageri.se
MORE INFO
visitstockholm.com

76 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 O N LO C ATI O N

FROME
In this pretty Somerset town, markets, restaurants and
delis are all infused with a staunchly independent spirit

W O R D S : T O M É M O R R I S S Y- S WA N . I L L U S T R AT I O N : TA N YA C O O P E R

Frome, on the northeastern edge of Somerset, is a and-garlic-marinated steak number served on soft
surprisingly grand town with a down-to-earth feel. ciabatta that soaks up all the juices.
The hilly centre’s winding, cobbled alleyways and By the train station, you’ll find Frome’s
streets — many of which are pedestrianised — offer latest offering, a hub of local food producers
the perfect opportunity to while away an afternoon and restaurants called, simply, At the Station
in boutique clothes shops, cafes and second-hand (atthestationfrome.com) — a converted warehouse
book stores. There are cute stone cottages and the that’s become a magnet for locals. It houses Rye
impressive Church of St John the Baptist. As locals Bakery’s main location and pizza spot; Owen’s
like to point out, Frome has more listed buildings Sausages and Hams (instagram.com/obarratt),
per capita than Bath. where owner Owen Barratt — formerly of Monty’s
For a small town, it punches above its weight Deli in London — makes hot dogs and hams
when it comes to eating and drinking, too. from locally reared pigs; and The Cheese Lord
Several independent vendors have moved in since the (thecheeselord.co.uk), which sells fine cheeses from
pandemic, many making use of producers in the around the West Country.
wider region for the likes of cheese, cider and meat. For dinner, Little Walcot (littlewalcot.com) is
The monthly Frome Independent market attracts one of the best restaurants in Frome. The sister
visitors from far afield with stalls selling everything establishment of Walcot House in Bath, this
from dim sum to artisan chocolate. all-day affair — where you can find pastries in
Whether or not it’s a market day, start off at Rye the morning and grab a pint in the afternoon
Bakery (rye-bakery.com), a lovely spot in a former — comes to life with a regularly changing menu.
church, where bacon and egg sandwiches with The crispy pork bites and anchovies on house-made
homemade brown sauce on Bible-thick slices of focaccia make for delicious snacks, while mains like
sourdough will set you up for the day. And if it’s crispy confit duck leg on beans are generous — you
warm, enjoy your breakfast in the hidden garden. won’t leave hungry.
Walk down pretty Catherine Hill, filled with End the day at HydeAway (instagram.com/
shabby-chic clothes shops and cafes, and pop into hydeawayfrome), a darkly lit, speakeasy-style
The Stores (thestoresinfrome.co.uk), a charming cocktail bar tucked away from the town’s main
wine bar and shop on Stony Street. Sip some thoroughfares. The playful, inventive cocktails
interesting wines and tuck into local cheeses include delicious takes on the classics, such as a
and charcuterie, all of which can also be bought maple old fashioned. Book ahead to catch live music
to take home. According to The Stores’ owner, and comedy in the evenings.
Sarah Helliwell, “People in Frome are fiercely
independent — they don’t want chains.” And there H OW T O D O I T: Trains to Frome take about an hour
are very few in town. from Bristol and roughly 10 minutes from Westbury,
A couple of doors down is Tondo (aurorakusina. both of which have direct rail connections to London.
com/tondo-frome), a Filipino joint primarily The Archangel, a converted pub in the centre of town,
offering takeaway (there’s one table). Expect noodle offers doubles from £99 on a B&B basis.
soups and superb sandwiches, including a soy- butcombe.com/the-archangel-inn-somerset

78 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
T H E L A M B & F O U N TA I N
This small, friendly boozer is
set in a listed building first
documented in 1785 and
registered by Camra for its
historic interior. Inside, it looks
as though nothing’s changed
since the 1970s, with prices
similarly evocative of a bygone I N O S H I S H I I Z A K AYA
age (pints of cider for less than Inspired by Japanese izakayas,
£3). 57 Castle Street, BA11 3BW this lively restaurant is found
on the town’s main drag. It
serves Japanese- and Korean-
inspired small plates and mains,
including green and edamame
beans in a sesame-heavy
dressing; crunchy, light kimchi;
and fried chicken karaage with
a dusting of seaweed. It’s a fun
spot for a drink, too. inoshishi.co

T H E G O O D H E A RT
This welcoming community
cafe offers affordable lunches,
including sandwiches, soups,
pancakes, frittatas, salads and
desserts, as well as free tea,
coffee and cakes. At the heart
of this independent, non-profit
venture are pay-forward meals,
available to buy for people
in need. thegoodheart.uk/cafe
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R R A D I S S O N H O T E L G R O U P

GEORGIA

Regional riches
Brawny mountain fare, delicate plant-based dishes and complex stews — Georgia’s
varied cuisine mirrors the diverse topography of its regions. Words: Emily Lush
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R R A D I S S O N H O T E L G R O U P

From left: Ushguli, one of the highest

villages in Europe; khinkali made in
Tusheti; a museum at the Tsinandali
Estate, a Radisson Collection Hotel

T 5
o experience Georgia’s cuisine elarji, a soft ghomi (grain porridge) blended SHKMERULI FROM RACHA
is to discover the myriad of rich with cheese. “If you walk into any home in Unforgiving winters in the Caucasus
cultures that have permeated the Samegrelo, you’ll almost certainly fi nd a Mountains call for hearty dishes. Hailing
country’s borders throughout the pot of ghomi on the boil” Irakli explains. from the village of Skhmeri in Racha,
centuries — with influences from Iran, Asia, WHERE TO TRY IT: Ketevan Ninidze of Oda shkmeruli is a simple dish of roasted
Turkey and the Mediterranean. Each region Family Marani in Martvili serves her chicken, served in a punchy raw or lightly
is home to distinct flavours, and even classic kharcho with ghomi. sauteed garlic sauce. Earthenware pans
dishes such as khinkali (soup dumplings) named ketsi are used for cooking this dish
and khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread) vary
from one part of the country to another. Yet
it’s the shared values of “sharing, caring and
3 CHIKHIRTMA FROM KAKHETI
Chicken is the star of this homespun
soup associated with Kakheti, in the
directly on the hearth. These traditional
Georgian pans are made from the same clay
used to create qvevri, the buxom amphora (a
socialising” that define the Georgian table, eastern part of Georgia. This is an area with large earthenware vessel) used in Georgia’s
says Irakli Asatiani, executive chef at the an unpretentious and meat-heavy cuisine 8,000-year-old winemaking tradition.
Tsinandali Estate, a Radisson Collection that’s orientated around the quality of WHERE TO TRY IT: Family Hotel Gallery in
Hotel. Discover Georgian dining at its finest raw ingredients. And while travelling the Oni serves Rachan speciality food inside a
by sampling six standout dishes that hail Kakheti Wine Route, you may well fi nd traditional wooden house.
from across the country. yourself reaching for a bowl — “Georgians

1 PKHALI FROM IMERETI

Western Georgia’s region of Imereti
love to drink, and chikhirtma is like our
pharmacy when we have a hangover,” Irakli
laughs. Anchored in a slow-simmered
6 KHINKALI FROM TUSHETII
Khinkali resembles xiaolongbao (a
small Chinese steamed bun) and likely
is home to some of the country’s most bouillon, the velvety texture is achieved arrived in Georgia via Mongolia. These
creative cuisine. Pkhali is a vegan-friendly with eggs, while its zesty brightness comes ‘city style’ dumplings are often filled with a
dip-like appetiser made of minced greens from wine vinegar. 70-30% blend of beef and pork — whereas
or seasonal vegetables. An assemblage WHERE TO TRY IT: Irakli adds mint to his in the remote highlands of Tusheti, the
of different pkhali, mchadi (cornbread), chikhirtma at the Tsinandali Estate, A original recipe calls for lamb. According to
cheese and other morsels, presented in a Radisson Collection Hotel, in the heart of Irakli, the most important component is the
communal bowl, is a dining experience the wine region. hot broth inside. To enjoy it properly, take a
known as gobi. Tied to the word megobari small bite of the bun, then drink the broth
(meaning friend), this serving style embodies
the social nature of the country’s cuisine.
WHERE TO TRY IT: Gala, a traditional
4 KHACHAPURI FROM ADJARA
Known for the Black Sea resort city
of Batumi, Adjara, located in Georgia’s
before devouring the dough and the meat.
The golden rule is to eat with your hands.
WHERE TO TRY IT: Pictograma in Tbilisi
restaurant in the regional capital of southwest, is a diverse corner of the serves authentic Khevsurian dumplings.
Kutaisi, specialises in pkhali. country where the cuisine relies heavily
on locally produced dairy. Adjara is the
PLAN YOUR TRIP
2 KHARCHO FROM SAMEGRELO
Kharcho is a popular beef soup that
can be made in different ways. However,
birthplace of Adjarian khachapuri, the
poster child for Georgia’s national dish of
‘cheese bread’, which comes in dozens of One-stop flights are available from the UK to
IMAGES: RADISSON HOTEL GROUP; GETTY

most would agree this tomato-based regional varieties. The only khachapuri Tbilisi, with direct flights from London to Tbilisi
dish calls for blue fenugreek, marigold that looks different is adjaruli, made starting in early 2025. The Tsinandali Estate,
and coriander seeds at a minimum. in Adjara. Legend has it that because A Radisson Collection Hotel, offers a base for
Many people like to add ajika, a piquant Adjara sits on the coast, the bread is shaped those looking to explore the Kakheti region.
pepper-chilli-garlic paste that’s a staple like a boat. Accordingly, the yellow egg For more information, visit radissonhotels.com
in subtropical Samegrelo, but there are no yolk might symbolise a shining sun, and
written rules for how to make a dish like the butter, a pontoon floating on a sea.
this. Megrelian veal kharcho, for instance, WHERE TO TRY IT: Laguna in Batumi serves a
uses ground walnuts for a rich, curry-like variety of wood-fi red khachapuri, including
gravy. This dish’s traditional companion is a house special with smoked cheese.

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
 BOOKS

TRUE NORTH
TIM A N D ER S O N ’ S N E W B O O K , H O K K A I D O, I S I N S PI R ED BY JAPAN ’ S
N O RTHERNMOST PREFEC TU RE, WHERE WESTERN INFLU EN C E S AND
I N D I G EN O U S CO O KI N G C RE ATE A C U I S I N E LI K E N O OTH ER

What makes the food culture of Hokkaido unique? real focus on natural produce, so these confections are
The blend of cultural influences. I was struck by the popular as omiyage (gifting souvenirs). Even though it’s
similarities to Wisconsin, where I’m from. There’s that a wintry place, there’s great fruit, which you might not
Midwestern-style agriculture, focusing on crops like expect, such as sweet melons, strawberries and grapes.
corn and potato, and dairy farming. During the Meiji Plants from the multicoloured flower fields, like lavender,
Restoration from the 1870s, the Japanese government are used to flavour everything from shaved ice to coffees.
enlisted Middle European and Midwestern American
agriculturalists to advise on Western farming methods, Are there other cultural traditions that influence food
because these regions share a similar climate and customs in Hokkaido?
terrain to Hokkaido. That’s why you can find old German Spirituality. In Ainu culture, there are kamuy (spirit
beer halls like those in Milwaukee, some even serving deities) within certain living things, elements and even
German potato salad. A piece of home, but in Japan. tools, as well as kamuy that oversee some creatures. When
And, of course, there’s the important influence of the you take food from the environment, by hunting, foraging
Indigenous Ainu people, who migrated centuries ago or fishing, it’s important to give thanks to the appropriate
from northern Russia. That’s why I wanted to spotlight kamuy. This translates into a respect for crops — for
Ainu food. I spoke to a lot of Ainu chefs and cooks, but example, wild garlic is cut above the root to make sure it
also businesspeople and craftspeople, as well spending grows back. This is practically important, too, in a region
time at the National Ainu Museum. that has little vegetation for more than half the year.

How does the landscape and climate affect the cuisine? What are some of the most memorable dishes you’ve
As it’s a snowy and volcanic region, the ecosystems enjoyed across the region?
contribute to the seaweed’s flavour, helping to produce At Washo Market in Kushiro, dozens of in-season
top-quality kombu. This also means delicious seafood: seafood varieties are used to make the most amazing
crab, scallop and salmon. Seafood from Hokkaido breakfast dishes, such as a seafood rice bowl. I love
features on menus at high-end establishments across the spaghetti katsu at Izumiya restaurant and, in the
Japan, but it’s even fresher and cheaper at the source. evening, the robata joints serve up small plates of grilled
Hokkaido isn’t hot or wet enough to be a rice-growing local seafood. Zangi [Hokkaido-style fried chicken] and
region, so it imports a lot of rice from the rest of Japan, thin, crinkly noodles in a light soy sauce broth with lard
as well as from China, Korea and Taiwan. Even before are also great Kushiro specialities.
the Meiji Restoration, the Ainu traded seafood and I’d recommend the traditional Ainu food and fusion
kombu for rice. Native grains and wheat have also, plates in the Ainu village at Lake Akan. At Abashiri, a
IMAGES: LAURA EDWARDS/TIM ANDERSON; AWL IMAGES; ALAMY

unsurprisingly, played a key role in the cuisine. Due former prison, the museum cafe serves the old prison
to the abundance of wheat, wheat ramen is one of the menu for lunch, and it’s delicious. Another must is
most popular Hokkaido dishes. Hops grow wild along chanchanyaki, a fisherman’s dish of salmon cooked on
railroads, and the availability of hops and barley explain a hot plate with cabbage, bean sprouts and onions.
products like Sapporo beer. Grains like millet and pearl
barley, as well as legumes like soybeans, are used to How’s the food scene changing in Hokkaido?
bulk out rice. There’s more opportunity to learn about Ainu food now.
The National Ainu Museum offers cooking classes and
What other key ingredients feature in the local cuisine? has small farms growing traditional crops. There are also
Plants like wild garlic and butterbur, often foraged. The a few more Ainu restaurants; in 2005, there was only one
latter has giant leaves (used as shelter for korpokkur Ainu restaurant in Sapporo, run out of a family home,
Hokkaido: Recipes
gnomes, according to Ainu folklore), which are grilled, which closed two years later due to lack of interest. There
from the Seas, Fields
dried or used in soups. There’s also confectionery using and Farmlands of are some issues around appropriation of Ainu art and
Hokkaido milk and butter, like milk butter ice cream and Northern Japan, by decor, but it’s great to see renewed interest in Ainu food
milk bread, as well as chocolates, biscuits, cheesecakes Tim Anderson (£28, culture. I hope people try the Ainu recipes in the book
and crackers, often also using local wheat. There’s a Hardie Grant) — they’re accessible and tasty. Interview: Toyo Odetunde

82 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
Sapporo miso ramen is complex in flavour
Clockwise from top left: Swans on Lake
Kussharo, Hokkaido; ‘double fromage’ is
one of many local cheesecakes; butterbur
leaves are grilled and used in soups

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 83
 BOOKS

Chamen
While the name ‘chamen’, which means
‘stir-fried noodles’, does appear on menus
in other parts of the country, such as the
Chinatowns of Yokohama and Nagasaki, this
version of the dish is unique to Wakkanai city.
Its appeal is irresistible in such a windswept,
snowy climate: the incredibly thick sauce
(ankake) insulates the veg, noodles and
shellfish like a heavy duvet.
S E RV E S : 2 TA K E S : 1 0 M I N S

INGREDIENTS
3 tbsp oil
80g pork, very thinly sliced (optional)
½ green pepper, cut into large chunks
½ Chinese leaf (napa cabbage),
roughly chopped
½ carrot, peeled and cut into thin planks
2 portions of ramen noodles, cooked
and drained
a few pieces of dried kikurage (wood ear
mushroom), rehydrated and cut into
large chunks
100g bean sprouts
150g shellfish (such as prawns, scallops
or squid)
400ml light broth or water
2 tbsp shoyu
2 tbsp sake
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp chicken powder
4 tbsp cornflour or potato starch mixed with
6 tbsp cold water
white pepper, to taste
chilli oil, beni shōga (red, julienned pickled
ginger) and/or vinegar, to garnish

METHOD
Pour half the oil into a wok and set over
a high heat. Stir-fry the pork (if using) until
cooked through, then add the pepper,
cabbage and carrot and stir-fry for 1-2 mins
until the cabbage is wilted slightly.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in
a separate wok or non-stick pan set over
a high heat. Add the noodles, spreading
them out in a layer that fills the pan, and
fry for around 5 mins.
In the meantime, add the kikurage,
bean sprouts and shellfish to the first pan
and stir-fry for 1 min, then add the light
broth (or water), shoyu, sake, sugar, oyster
sauce and chicken powder. Drizzle in the
IMAGES: LAURA EDWARDS/TIM ANDERSON

cornflour slurry, stir well and bring to the

boil. Add some white pepper, taste and
adjust the seasoning as you like.
When the noodles are crisp and have
developed a crust, divide them between
two wide dishes. Ladle over the ankake.
Serve very hot, adding the chilli oil,
pickled ginger and/or vinegar to taste.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 85
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 BOOKS

Zangi 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce heavy knife to cut the thigh into two pieces,
The name ‘zangi’ derives from the Chinese 1 tbsp lemon juice through the bone, then cut the breast into
‘zhàjī’ (fried chicken) and originally appeared on many shakes of finely ground white pepper four pieces, also through the bone. Lastly, cut
the menu at Torimatsu, a restaurant in Kushiro the wing into two joints.
city, in 1960. Though a lot of zangi today is FOR THE CHICKEN Combine the sake, shoyu, salt, MSG, egg
indistinguishable from standard Japanese karaage, ½ small chicken yolk, ginger and white pepper in a large bowl
Torimatsu established some unique characteristics 6 tbsp sake and mix well. Massage the marinade into
that set it apart: it’s cooked on the bone, it uses the 4 tbsp shoyu the chicken, then ideally put in the fridge to
whole chicken (instead of just thighs or legs) and ¼ tsp salt marinate for an hour or two (or for up to a day).
it’s seasoned with both a marinade and a dipping ¼ tsp MSG Combine the potato starch and flour in
sauce (zantare). The master at Torimatsu told me 1 egg yolk a large bowl. Pour the oil into a deep, wide
they use only wheat flour for frying, but the master 60g fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped pan and heat to 170C. Dredge the marinated
at nearby Toriyoshi restaurant said they use only a few pinches of finely ground white pepper chicken in the flour, then lower each piece
potato starch — therefore, I use both. Neither of 100g potato starch of chicken carefully into the oil and cook for
them would tell me what’s in the dipping sauce, 100g plain flour around 7–8 mins until golden-brown. Use a
so this is just my best approximation. around 2 litres vegetable oil, for deep frying probe thermometer to check if it’s cooked
IMAGE: LAURA EDWARDS/TIM ANDERSON

S E RV E S : 2 ¼ lemon, cut into wedges, to serve (optional) through (the internal temperature should be
TA K E S : 3 0 M I N S P L U S M A R I N AT I N G above 70C); alternatively, cut into a piece of
METHOD chicken at its thickest point to make sure it’s
INGREDIENTS Tip all the ingredients for the zantare into not raw.
F O R T H E Z A N TA R E D I P P I N G S AU C E a small bowl and stir together until the sugar Remove the chicken from the oil using
2 tbsp shoyu or tamari dissolves. Set aside. chopsticks or tongs and drain on kitchen
1 tbsp dark brown sugar Cut the chicken into major joints: breast, paper. Serve with the zantare and lemon
1 tbsp tonkatsu sauce thigh, drumstick and wing. Use a sharp, wedges, if you like.

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 87
N E W R E LE A S E S

C U LT C L A S S IC S
A N I N S I D ER ’ S E XPLO R ATI O N O F BARC ELO NA’ S R I C H F O O D H I S TO RY

OUR PICK
B A RC E LO N A C U LT R E C I P E S
Stephan Mitsch
The Catalonian capital is home to a
vast and varied food culture, bringing
together the best ingredients from
land and sea. Mitsch, a German writer
and part-time tour guide, has lived
in Barcelona for more than 15 years,
documenting the city’s ascent to its
current position as a great culinary
destination. In the new compact edition of his cookbook and
travelogue, he escorts readers around its streets, stopping at rustic
wine cellars, teeming markets and hidden kitchens.
Recipes for small plates include croquettes with cecina beef
and leeks, prawns in garlic sauce and pureed salt cod. Some of
the larger dishes, meanwhile, highlight multicultural influences,
including artichokes — introduced during Moorish rule — in a
potato gratin, and chicken and seafood draped in a sauce of dark
chocolate, an ingredient introduced when Columbus returned
from the New World. Interspersed with the 120 recipes are Mitsch’s
favourite food spots, from the quirky bars and restaurants of the
Gothic Quarter to the seafood section of La Boqueria Market, and a
look at the social history of tapas. £12.99, Murdoch Books

FO U R TO TRY

RIVER DEEP C O M F O RT F O O D
Danube The Flygerians Cookbook
Irina Georgescu Jess & Jo Edun
Award-winning food writer Georgescu’s The British-Nigerian Edun sisters’ first
latest release traces the gastronomic cookbook — named after their London
culture along the Danube River, street-food joint — is a homage to
beginning in her homeland, Romania, their heritage and their grandmother’s
then travelling south. She charts more cooking. Expect traditional dishes
than 80 mostly meat-free recipes, plus twists on classics, such as jollof
including potato stew with filo crust, and spaghetti, and agege bread and butter
semolina milk soufflé. £28, Hardie Grant pudding. £22, Ryland Peters & Small

88 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 Artichoke cream soup
This soup is an excellent way to use
all the edible parts of the artichoke.
S E RV E S : 4 TA K E S : 5 5 M I N S

INGREDIENTS
4 artichokes 400ml chicken or
½ lemon, juiced vegetable stock
½ garlic clove, crushed 1 pinch cayenne pepper
2 tbsp olive oil 20g plain flour
25g butter 250ml cream
2 onions, chopped 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley

METHOD
Cut off and peel the artichoke stems and
immediately drop them into a bowl of water with
half the lemon juice. Remove the artichoke petals,
peeling them down to the hearts, then remove the
inner petals directly above the artichoke hearts.
Immediately drop the petals into the
bowl of lemon water to prevent them from
oxidising. Remove and discard the fibrous
chokes from the hearts.
Mix 1 litre water with the garlic, olive oil,
remaining lemon juice and a pinch of salt in a large
saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the artichoke
hearts and stems. Simmer for around 25 mins, or
until they can be easily pierced with a fork but still
hold their shape. Scoop out the artichoke hearts
and stems from the saucepan and set aside.
Add the artichoke petals to the saucepan, then
bring to the boil and simmer for 25 mins over a low
heat. Remove the petals from the cooking liquid
(reserving the liquid), transfer them to a separate
pot and blend them to a fine paste using a stick
blender. Pass the paste through a sieve.
Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve and
reserve 350ml. Slice the artichoke hearts and dice
the stems. Set aside.
Melt the butter in a saucepan set over a
medium heat. Add the onions and sauté briefly.
Add the stock, artichoke paste and reserved
cooking liquid and season with salt and the
cayenne pepper. Combine the flour with a small
amount of the cream, then whisk the mixture
into the soup to thicken. Pour in the remaining
cream and briefly bring to the boil, adding the
sliced artichoke hearts and diced stems just before
the mixture comes to the boil. Garnish with the
parsley to serve.

F R E S H LY B A K E D FRENCH FLAIR
Breaking Bao Marcus’s France
Clarice Lam Marcus Wareing
Born in Toronto to parents from Chef, restaurateur and broadcaster
IMAGES: ARNOLD POESCHL

Hong Kong, pastry chef Lam combines Wareing has spent much of his career
WORDS: KIRA RICHARDS

Asian flavours with global baking exploring French cooking, and his
techniques. She refashions centuries-old latest book takes readers on a personal
bao into recipes including gochujang adventure across the country through
pizza rolls and steamed sweetcorn updated takes on classic recipes,
bao with an oozing custard filling. including pork chops with fennel, sage
£30, Chronicle Books and onion. £26, Harper NonFiction

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 89
DINE OUT

LE YDI
LO N D O N • HYDEHOTEL S .COM

S ELI N K I A ZIM’ S N E W A LL- DAY O PEN I N G PAI R S TO P- LE V EL

T U R K I S H CO O KI N G W ITH E YE- C ATC H I N G D ECO R

All right, I’ll admit it: many of my past finally come, they’re fun and interesting: the beans, and, from the mangal corner of the
dalliances with Turkish food have involved Sultaniye is a blend of rum, apricot and Noilly menu, Cornish lamb leg kebab. As you’d expect
polystyrene. But even great, memorable Turkish Prat vermouth, while the minty, gin-based from a chef as deft at the grill as Kiazim, the
food, served on proper crockery, has never Ayran to You namechecks that salted-yoghurt few hunks of meat are exquisitely cooked,
been hard to find in London. For this we can drink with a briny cloud of yoghurt foam. but it costs £24. The chicken shish, steeped
thank people like Selin Kiazim, the London- We order a feast of small plates, and in fenugreek yoghurt, costs £20. I’d expected
born, Turkish-Cypriot chef and Great British suddenly the table is crowded with pide and a little more flesh for my pound, but then
Menu winner. Though the grills of her popular somun flatbreads and smoked aubergine, fiery again, we are in central London. Still-hungry
Shoreditch restaurant Oklava went out in 2023, ezme relish and silky, clay-baked hummus. carnivores can add extra doner meat for £7,
she’s now back with Leydi, a few paces from the The honey-drenched börek bulges with feta. but we’ve overindulged on the small plates.
Old Bailey in the new Hyde London City hotel. I love the cacik, a yoghurt-based dip, thick Yet, we somehow we find room for the künefe,
A Friday-night kebab joint Leydi is not. with cucumber and mint, and the red-pepper which takes a while to arrive but is glorious when
The decor is all sugar-almond pinks, eclectic sweetness of the nutty muhammara. I could it does: strands of syrupy kataifi pastry shatter
art and plush loveseats; a fig tree here, rattan graze on these dishes for days, mopping up beneath the spoon, the inside molten with salty-
there. Funky geometric wallpaper — the every morsel with wads of pide. That Leydi sweet cheese and pistachio. It could easily serve
sort that has you spinning after a few rakis is an all-day affair — open for breakfast from three or four — or just one greedy food writer.
— brightens up the bathroom. 6.30am — is no bad thing. In a busy opening week, Leydi blushes with
Should you be so inclined, there’s a raki menu, The large plates include imam bayildi promise and service will no doubt sharpen up.
served with ice and cold water, and the wine list (stuffed aubergine) and market-priced fish, After all, it would be cruel to make anyone else
has a modest showing of Turkish names. But though we go for the tomato-rich fasulye, wait for that künefe. Dinner for two (12 dishes)
we pick from the cocktails, and, when they do a tasty if forgettable £16 cauldron of baked with wine, around £170. Connor McGovern

90 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
 REVIEWS

LO U I S
M A N C H E STE R • LO U I SRESTAU R ANTS .COM

Sum up the old-school New York glamour of high-street tapas, and the New York cheesecake
Louis in one moment and it’s when the singer is not unlike a posh supermarket version.
steps down from the velvet-lined stage, picks In these surroundings, veal dishes feel a
his way through the crowd and pulls up a good test. The roasted veal chop is cooked
chair to croon to a delighted table of six, as well, but the dish’s simplicity — meat, cheese,
the champagne and dessert trolley rolls past. sauce — doesn’t quite justify the £65 price
The ambience belies the fact we’re in a new tag. The osso buco alla milanese fares better; a
unit in Manchester’s business district. Louis slow-cooked veal shank with a punchy saffron
is about nostalgia, combining classic Italian- and parmesan risotto, it offers more depth. As
American food with live music. The menu the band starts up again, I feel I could stay
makes a virtue of ‘never complicated’ cuisine all night, particularly given the cocktails are
— although, at these prices, more finesse would excellent. Louis is a great night out — the food
be welcome. The small bowl of calamari fritti just needs to catch up. Three-course dinner for
is fine but, at £18, I’d expect more than typical two with wine and cocktails, £355. Ben East

DONG NAE
B RI STO L • D O N G NAE.CO.U K

Dongnae, in Bristol’s leafy Redland, is the array of sides in tiny ceramic dishes, such as
second opening for Kyu Jeong Jeon and kimchi and fermented cockles. My favourite
Duncan Robertson, who met working at combination is chunks of Wagyu beef in a
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and won fans with perilla leaf, slathered in house-made ssamjang
their first restaurant, the more casual Bokman. (fermented soy and chilli paste). Finally,
Their new spot offers a tasting menu pluss an dessert is glutinous squash injeolmi (Korean
a la carte selection of small plates and charcoal rice cakes) in a whipped chestnut cream and
grills. The Korean fried chicken is possibly the syrup — a deliciously indulgent finish.
best I’ve ever tried, with lip-warming chilli It’s the attention to detail where Dongnae
and lightly glazed skin that splinters when you really impresses. As well as that ssamjang,
bite into it. A parcel of raw beef swaddled in there’s a light and nuanced wasabi, made on
seaweed, with pine nuts and Korean pear, is site, and soju cocktails infused with omija
rich, topped with a creamy sea urchin. berries. All together, Dongnae has a winning
Skillets of grilled meat follow, to be formula. Nine-course tasting menu from £55
wrapped in leaves and accompanied by any per person; wine from £7 a glass. Natalie Paris

LOLO
IMAGES: HYDE LONDON CITY; LOUIS; BENJAMIN PRYOR; STEVIE CAMPBELL

LO N D O N • J OSEPIZ ARRO.COM

Baked, devilled and wrapped into omelettes, There’s fish served from tins, from premium
the eggs at José Pizarro’s new all-day dining Spanish brands and Rockfish in Devon, but
spot on Bermondsey Street come in every which standouts include pork tenderloin carpaccio,
way you want. And you do want. The devilled, rose-pink with a buttery hazelnut sauce, and a
mustard-creamy with an anchovy cork-screwed dense chicken liver parfait with doughnut-like
on top are, I decide, a bite-sized indulgence that sweet buns, jewelled with pickled red onion.
should occur daily. And they do, for the menus It’s all perfect with, say, a sherry or white
are modelled on how ‘Lolo’ (short for José’s port, selected from the short, crowd-pleasing
middle name, Manuel) dines at home. drinks list. And Lolo’s glamorously lazy
Small plates are comforts: sandwiches of aesthetic — amber-lit wooden tables, barstools
Ermesenda cheese with either Iberian ham or and deep banquettes — along with warm,
beef confit; a red wine-soaked torrija al vino informal service, just adds to the ‘mi casa su
sourdough with whipped cream and Pedro casa’ vibe. Albeit a decadent casa most mortals
Ximénez sherry, which falls into an audacious don’t inhabit. Dinner for two (six dishes) around
sweet spot between figgy and bread pudding. £70; wine from £6.50 a glass. Sarah Barrell

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 91
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R A N T I G UA A N D B A R B U DA T O U R I S M AU T H O R I T Y

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA

Rum, spice &
all things nice
Follow your taste buds to Antigua and Barbuda to discover
an exciting and evolving culinary scene. Words: Sarah Lee

T
he Caribbean may be renowned LUNCH
for jerk chicken and rice and Choose from a menu of Italian and Caribbean
peas, but have you heard dishes at Salt Plage, set on the shifting sands
of pepperpot and fungee? of Dickenson Bay, noted for the red phone
Pepperpot, a meat and vegetable stew box on the beach. The shrimp summer rolls
that’s served with fungee, an okra and are a great place to start, after which you
cornmeal-based dish, is said to have first might want to go for a seafood linguine,
been introduced to Antigua and Barbuda creole snapper or spicy jerk pork chop.
when enslaved people arrived from Touted as ‘philosophy on a plate’, the menu
Africa. The recipe evolved with locally at the upscale Sheer Rocks restaurant within
found ingredients, and went on to become Cocobay Resort has received a number of
Antigua and Barbuda’s national dish. international accolades. Head chef Jamal
In fact, pepperpot and fungee is Warner tempts the palate with dishes such
taking centre stage in May at the as grilled, aged beef short rib with charred
islands’ 2025 Restaurant Week, with shallots and smoked oxtail jus. The location
a competition planned to identify the — on a cliff top overlooking the west coast — is
restaurant serving the best version. almost as much of a draw as the food.
The event shines a light on local cuisine, and
champions creative chefs who are working DINNER
to broaden the nation’s culinary offering. At Shirley Heights Lookout you can dine
It’s little surprise then, that there is an inside the 18th-century military lookout and
abundance of exciting dining spots on both enjoy sweeping ocean views. This restaurant
islands. So whether you’re looking for casual is the place to be on a Thursday for chilled-
beachside hangouts or upscale restaurants, out reggae vibes, or Sundays for its popular
IMAGES: GETTY; ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA TOURISM AUTHORITY

here’s how to make the most of Antigua and steel band barbeque party.
Barbuda’s vibrant cuisine. On Fridays, join the weekly Rum in the
Ruins talk at Dow’s Hill Fortification
W H E RE TO E AT I N A NTI G UA & Interpretation Centre to learn about
BREAKFAST Antigua’s rich history with rum. Afterwards,
Bay House Restaurant, at the Trade Winds enjoy one of the renowned Seafood Friday
Hotel, is one of Antigua’s most popular evenings at the Copper and Lumber Store
culinary experiences, serving a modern Hotel — named one of the top five fish fries
take on Caribbean food. Keep it local with in the Caribbean.
an Antiguan breakfast of salted fish, eggs Those seeking fine dining should make for
and johnny cakes — little flatbreads that are Le Bistro in Hodges Bay, where the menu
fluff y on the inside and crisp on the outside. fuses Caribbean flair with French passion. Clockwise from top: Rendezvous Bay
Beach; entertainment at Tamarind Hills;
Meanwhile, Likealatte provides typically Their high-end status is reinforced through
fresh lobster with rice and vegetables;
American dishes such as chicken and waffles dishes such as the signature ‘Long Island’ Jolly beach; a cocktail served at
alongside French toast soaked in Baileys. duck, served with orange bark and honey. Weatherills Hotel

T H I S I S PA I D C O N T E N T. I T D O E S N OT N E C E S S A R I LY R E F L E C T T H E V I E W S O F N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C ,
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R ( U K ) O R T H E I R E D I TO R I A L S TA F F S .
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R A N T I G UA A N D B A R B U DA T O U R I S M AU T H O R I T Y

W H E RE TO E AT I N BA RB U DA
BREAKFAST
Barbuda may be Antigua’s smaller sister,
but it still has plenty for food-lovers to
appreciate. On the unspoilt stretch of
Coral Group Bay, where white sails float
through the aquamarine sea, sits Uncle
Roddy’s, a family-run business serving
food all day. Its seafood brunch is rightly
renowned, offering excellent grilled lobster
and plump shrimp.

LUNCH
Serving unexpected but authentically
Barbudan dishes is Wa’Omoni Bestaurant, in
Codrington Village. Drawing on the island’s
culture and local ingredients, this restaurant
makes Barbuda deer burgers from the meat
of the island’s fallow deer, as well as conch
burgers using the sea molluscs that are
abundant in the region. Its specials include
stewed beans (great for vegans) or oxtail stew,
and fish with staple Caribbean root vegetables
such as sweet potatoes and cassava.
For Asian flavours, the sophisticated
Japanese group Nobu has dropped anchor
at Princess Diana Beach, with a lunch menu
ranging from spicy miso salmon tacos to
wagyu steak.

DINNER
Seafood is cooked to succulent perfection
at The Mangrove, located in the luxury
resort Barbuda Belle. Its menu is brimming
with locally caught fish, including a variety
of lobster dishes, conch chowder and red
snapper. Diners will enjoy Barbudan and
French flavours while soaking up coastal
views in this secluded location, which is
only accessible by boat.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Antigua and Barbuda Restaurant Week will

showcase the best of the islands’ cuisine
from 4-18 May 2025. Kenwood Travel offers
package deals from the UK, starting at
£1,225 per person. There are daily direct
flights from Gatwick and Heathrow to
Antigua. Barbuda is accessible via a daily
90-minute ferry or a 15-minute plane or
helicopter flight. For more information, go
to visitantiguabarbuda.com
 C H R I STM A S O F F E R
FO U R I S S U E S FO R £ 20

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REBELLION IS
DELICIOUS
Hybrid cookware that
can handle your heat

hexclad.co.uk
Scan the QR code to join the hybrid revolution. @hexclad_europe
 IN THE NEX T I S SUE

HERBS

In our Spring 2025 issue, we travel the world in search of the

most delicious, versatile and — in some cases — controversial
herbs out there, meeting the artisan producers and
innovative chefs bringing them to our plates

P L U S M A R S E I L L E , I TA LY, K E D G E R E E , N E W Y O R K S TAT E , B R U S S E L S ,
K U A L A L U M P U R , S O U T H A F R I C A N W I N E , W I LT S H I R E & M O R E

SPRING ISSUE
ON SALE 6 MARCH 2025
IMAGE: ALAMY

F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N O N O U R S U B S C R I P T I O N O F F E R S ,
S E E PAG E 9 5

N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL 97
 ON THE TABLE
What we’ve been enjoying in the world of food and travel

I’VE BEEN
D I S C OV E R I N G …
Common Breads, a new
Lebanese bakery in London.
The menu is a delicious
homage to the street food of
Beirut; standouts include the tangy
and cheesy manouche with za’atar,
and ka’ak — flatbread topped
with sesame seeds. Farida
Zeynalova, associate editor

I’VE BEEN COOKING WITH…

Payst sauces — 12 different base pastes for
stir-fries, dipping and curries — from Sebby
Holmes’s London restaurant, Farang. They’re
a fun, smoky, sweet-sour sidestep from flavour
norms and each comes with a simple recipe at
payst.co.uk Sarah Barrell, senior editor

I ’ V E B E E N WATC H I N G …
Omnivore, René Redzepi’s documentary
on Apple TV, each episode of which puts a
particular food in the limelight. Interviews with
producers — such as salt harvesters in Maras,
Peru and organic rice farmers in Kerala — tell
the ingredients’ stories and what the future may
hold for them. Clare Vooght, associate editor
I ’ V E B E E N D I N I N G AT. . .

Avery in Edinburgh. Chef Rodney Wages serves

up an imaginative and delicate tasting menu, TA K E T H R E E
Vegan cookbooks
including incredibly moreish tortellini in brodo
and æbleskiver, a Danish-style, doughnut-like
pancake filled with brown crab, grilled broccoli 1 Big Veg Energy,
Christina Soteriou
Dishes such as sweet potatoes with tahini-
and roasted garlic. Nicola Trup, editor butter chickpeas, inspired by Cyprus and
beyond. £26, Ebury Press

2 High Protein Vegan,

Rose Wyles
IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; MANON MATAYER; FELIX SPELLER

Protein-packed recipes including lentil

What foodie gifts are you giving this Christmas? bolognese and pecan caramel cupcakes.
£16.99, Hamlyn
The Nice and Spice A subscription to Citizens A Brilliant Masala Box by
Box from Delli, the
online food and drink
marketplace. It’s more
of Soil, an organically
farmed extra virgin olive
oil company. The light
Dipna Anand. I’m excited
to see how my mum
will use spices like
3 Vegan Pantry,
Katy Beskow
Simple dishes,
exciting than your usual and herbaceous batch turmeric and dried like Somerset
Christmas hamper, from the Peloponnese, fenugreek leaves to stew, drawing
with hot honey, scotch Greece, is perfect enliven her Christmas on 10 key
bonnet jam and spicy drizzled over lamb- turkey. Kelly McKenna, ingredients.
peanut butter. NT stuffed aubergine. FZ art editor £22, Quadrille

98 N AT I O N A LG E O G R A P H I C .CO M / T R AV EL
A HAVEN BRIMMING
WITH NATURAL BEAUTY

waldorfastoriamaldives.com
Ithaafushi Island, South Male Atoll,
Republic of Maldives

Tel +960-400-0300
MLEON.hotel@waldorfastoria.com
 Discover
Danish Rye

Refined Rye Whisky,

stauningwhisky.com
Designed in Denmark Please enjoy responsibly.