This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles

for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

Designation: D8007 − 24

Standard Test Method for

Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics1
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D8007; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.

1. Scope D3887 Specification for Tolerance for Knitted Fabrics

(Withdrawn 2017)3
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of wale and
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test
course counts of weft knitted fabrics. Weft knit fabrics are
Methods
made on circular or flat-bed knitting machines and include
E177 Practice for Use of the Terms Precision and Bias in
single- as well as double-knit fabric categories. Typical ex-
ASTM Test Methods
amples of single-knits include jersey and single-pique fabrics;
E691 Practice for Conducting an Interlaboratory Study to
typical double-knits are rib, interlock, and swiss pique fabrics.
Determine the Precision of a Test Method
1.2 This test method is not applicable to warp knit fabrics
such as tricot or raschel. 3. Terminology
1.3 Wale and course counts are to be reported separately. 3.1 For terminology related to fabrics, see Terminology
D4850.
1.4 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded
as the standard. The values given in parentheses are mathemati- 3.2 The following terms are relevant to this test method:
cal conversions to SI units that are provided for information count-in knitted fabrics, courses-in knitted fabrics, knitted
only and are not considered standard. fabric, and wales-in knitted fabrics.
3.3 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
method, refer to Terminology D123.
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- 4. Summary of Test Method
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 4.1 The number of wales and the number of courses per unit
distance of a knitted fabric are counted using a suitable ruler,
1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-
magnifying device, or digital camera system. For an illustration
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
of a simple knitted fabric wale and course orientation, see Fig.
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
1.
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical 5. Significance and Use
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
5.1 If there are differences of practical significance between
2. Referenced Documents reported test results for two laboratories (or more), compara-
tive tests should be performed to determine if there is a
2.1 ASTM Standards:2 statistical bias between them using competent statistical assis-
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles tance. As a minimum, ensure that the test samples to be used
D1776/D1776M Practice for Conditioning and Testing Tex- are as homogeneous as possible and drawn from the material
tiles from which the disparate test results were obtained. The test
specimens are to be randomly assigned in equal numbers to
each laboratory for testing. The test results from the partici-
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles pating laboratories should be compared using a statistical test
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.60 on Fabric Physical Test for unpaired data to a probability level chosen before initiation
Methods B. of the testing. If a bias is found, either its cause shall be found
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2024. Published November 2024. Originally
approved in 2015. Last previous edition approved in 2019 as D8007-15(2019). DOI:
and corrected, or future test results for that material shall be
10.1520/D8007-24. adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at www.astm.org/contact. For Annual Book of
3
ASTM Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
page on the ASTM website. www.astm.org.

Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States

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 D8007 − 24

FIG. 1 Wale and Course Orientation in Single Knitted Fabric

Courtesy of Cotton Incorporated, Cary, NC, Circular Knitting Science Intermediate Workshop Notebook and The Art of Knitting: An Interactive Guide to the Basics of
Knitting educational CD, www.cottoninc.com.

5.2 The results obtained by this test method may be used to the purchaser and the supplier. Consider rolls of fabric to be the
determine if fabrics meet the tolerances for fabric counts given primary sampling unit.
in Specification D3887. 7.1.1 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample, take a
full width swatch at least 2 yd (2 m) long from each roll of
6. Apparatus fabric in the lot sample.
6.1 Use any suitable device, such as a pick glass, ruler, 7.1.2 Wale and course counts should be made no closer to a
microscope, or digital camera system that will allow counting fabric selvage or tubular edge than one tenth of the width of the
by unit distance. fabric or within 0.5 yd (0.5 m) of the end of the roll or piece.
6.2 The use of a stylus, pointer, or pick needle is recom- 7.1.3 Wale and course counts may be made on either the
mended when using a pick glass, ruler, or if the microscope face or the back side of the fabric sample. Select the fabric side
does not have a micrometer. that allows for the best visual observation of the wales and
courses.
7. Sampling 7.1.4 It is not necessary to cut out swatches from the
7.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take laboratory sample for each wale and course count to be taken.
at random the number of rolls of fabric as directed in an Consider each designated place at which wale and course
applicable material specification or other agreement between counts are made as a test specimen. It is recommended that a

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 D8007 − 24
wale and a course count be taken at the same site on the 9.6 For fancy knitted fabrics in which one or more yarns do
laboratory sample then at different locations along the length not appear at regular, short intervals, perform counts over at
and across the width of the laboratory sample. least one full pattern repeat of each design component rounding
7.2 For garments or textile items that represent a laboratory to the nearest whole number wale or course. Record the counts
sample, wale and course counts should be made at locations on and the distances measured.
different panels of the garments or products at least 2 in. (5 cm)
10. Calculation
away from seams, pockets, plackets, or other assembly sites.
10.1 Calculate the average number of wales and courses per
8. Conditioning 1 in. (2.5 cm) separately to the nearest whole number.
8.1 Condition specimens as directed in Practice D1776/ 10.2 In instances in which 3-in. (7.5 cm) or greater distances
D1776M. Testing may be performed without conditioning. are counted, divide the average counts by three, or the distance
However, in cases of dispute, specimens shall be conditioned measured, to report a count per 1 in. (2.5 cm).
before testing. 10.3 In the case of counting fancy knitted fabrics in which
8.2 If testing is performed in conditions not specified in pattern repeats or areas of different components in the design
Practice D1776/D1776M, report the prevailing conditions at are used, divide the number of wales (or courses) by the
the time of testing. Such results may not correspond with the distance counted to achieve a count per 1 in. (2.5 cm) and
results obtained when testing in the standard atmosphere for average the respective counts to the nearest whole number.
testing textiles.
11. Report
9. Procedure 11.1 Samples were tested as directed in Test Method D8007.
9.1 For counting wales, position a ruler or counting device 11.2 Report the following information:
along the width direction of the fabric. Using a stylus or the 11.2.1 Each sample’s identification, lot number, and so
pointer of a counting device, place the starting point between forth;
two wales along a single course row. Move the stylus or pointer 11.2.2 Standard conditions or the conditions under which
along the width direction, counting the number of wales until the testing was performed;
a 1-in. (2.5 cm) distance is reached. Record the count. 11.2.3 The unit distance across which the wales and courses
9.1.1 Repeat 9.1 in two additional locations randomly were counted if greater than 1 in. (2.5 cm); and
spaced diagonally across the width of the laboratory sampling 11.2.4 Average number of wales and courses per 1 in. (or
unit. unit distance) stating the wale count first. See Eq 1.
9.1.2 For counting wales on a rib knitted fabric, only the Knitted fabric count = 36 × 48 (1)
visible wales are counted and recorded for the side of the fabric
chosen for counting. where:
NOTE 1—A designation of 1 × 1, 2 × 2, or 3 × 3 is used to describe a
36 = Average wale count per inch, wpi, and
balanced rib knit fabric, that is, one in which the same number of wales 48 = Average course count, cpi.
per unit length are visible on each side of the fabric.
9.2 For counting courses, place a ruler or counting device in
NOTE 2—Knitted fabric manufacturers may use the reverse order, that
the length fabric direction along a wale column. Position a is, courses × wales, when denoting knitted fabric counts. The fabric count
stylus or the pointer of a counting device between two courses of balanced rib knits are typically reported as wales × courses counted per
as the starting point. Move the stylus or pointer along the wale unit distance followed by type of rib, for example, 32 wpi × 24 cpi (2 ×
direction, counting the number of courses until a 1-in. (2.5 cm) 2).
distance has been reached.
9.2.1 Repeat 9.2 in two additional locations randomly 12. Precision and Bias
spaced diagonally across the width of the laboratory sampling 12.1 Precision—The precision of this test method is based
unit. on an intralaboratory study of D8007, new Test Method for
9.3 If using a digital counting microscope, follow the Wale and Course Count of Weft Knit Fabric, conducted in
manufacturer’s instructions for counting wales and courses to 2010. Three operators in a single laboratory tested four
the selected distance of measurement. samples: jersey, 2 × 2 rib, single-pique, and interlock knitted
fabrics. Wale and course counts were performed on each
9.4 If counting wales and courses on garments or products, sample. Every “test result” represents the average of three
select locations in three different panels of the garment or individual determinations, and all participants were asked to
product. report two replicate test results for each fabric analyzed. For
9.5 For any measurement device used (ruler, fabric counter, the pique and interlock samples, some wale counts were
or microscope), if there is a difference of two or more wales or performed at 3-in. (7.6 cm) intervals that indicate greater
courses between the three locations, count and record wales or variability is likely to occur when counting these fabric
courses in three locations at 3-in. or 5-in. (7.5 cm or 25.4 cm) constructions. Insufficient data were available for a full statis-
or greater distances. Counting distances greater than 1 in. tical analysis on these fabrics. A later study will be performed
(2.5 cm) will produce more precise wale and course counts. to provide additional information. Except for testing in only a

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 D8007 − 24
single laboratory, Practice E691 was followed for the study difference between two test results for the same material
design and analysis of the data; the details are given in ASTM obtained by different operators using different equipment in
Research Report No. RR:D13-1139.4 different laboratories.
12.1.1 Repeatability Limit (r)—Two test results obtained 12.1.2.1 As only a single laboratory reported results in this
within one laboratory shall be judged not equivalent if they study, comparisons could only be made between the results
differ by more than the r value for that material; r is the interval reported by the three participating operators; therefore, appro-
representing the critical difference between two test results for priately modified reproducibility limits are listed in Tables 1
the same material obtained by the same operator using the
and 2.
same equipment on the same day in the same laboratory.
12.1.1.1 Repeatability limits are listed in Tables 1 and 2. 12.1.3 The terms repeatability limit and reproducibility
12.1.2 Reproducibility Limit (R)—Two test results shall be limit are used as specified in Practice E177, except as noted.
judged not equivalent if they differ by more than the R value 12.1.4 Any judgment in accordance with 12.1.1 and 12.1.2
for that material; R is the interval representing the critical would have an approximate 95 % probability of being correct.

4
Supporting data have been filed at ASTM International Headquarters and may 13. Keywords
be obtained by requesting Research Report RR:D13-1139. Contact ASTM Customer
13.1 course count; knitted fabric; wale count
Service at www.astm.org/contact.

TABLE 1 Wale Counts

Material AverageA Repeatability Standard Reproducibility Standard Repeatability Limit Modified Reproducibility
Deviation Deviation LimitB
x̄ Sr SR r R
Jersey—100 % cotton,
41.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
5.6 oz ⁄yd2
2 x 2 rib—100 % cotton,
26.7 0.6 0.9 1.6 2.4
5.8 oz ⁄yd2
A
The average of the operators’ calculated averages.
B
Based on the variability of three different operators in a single laboratory.

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 D8007 − 24
TABLE 2 Course Counts
A
Material Average Repeatability Standard Reproducibility Standard Repeatability Limit Modified Reproducibility
Deviation Deviation LimitB
x̄ Sr SR r R
Jersey—100 % cotton,
65.2 0.4 0.4 1.1 1.1
5.6 oz ⁄yd2
2 x 2 rib—100 % cotton,
35.5 0.4 0.6 1.1 1.6
5.8 oz ⁄yd2
A
The average of the operators’ calculated averages.
B
Based on the variability of three different operators in a single laboratory.

ANNEX

(Mandatory Information)

A1. EXAMPLES OF WALE AND COURSE COUNT SEQUENCING BY KNIT FABRIC TYPE

A1.1 Single Jersey A1.4 Single-Pique Knitted Fabric

A1.1.1 See Fig. A1.1 for an example of a single jersey. A1.4.1 See Fig. A1.4 for an example of a single-pique
A1.2 Interlock Knitted Fabric knitted fabric.
A1.2.1 See Fig. A1.2 for an example of an interlock knitted
fabric.
A1.3 Rib, 2 × 2, Knitted
A1.3.1 See Fig. A1.3 for an example of a rib, 2 × 2, knitted
fabric.

FIG. A1.1 Single Jersey Knitted Fabric

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 D8007 − 24

FIG. A1.2 Interlock Knitted Fabric

FIG. A1.3 Rib, 2 × 2, Knitted Fabric

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 D8007 − 24

FIG. A1.4 Single-Pique Knitted Fabric

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