The Un-Discovered Islands
The Un-Discovered Islands
An Archipelago of
Myths and Mysteries, Phantoms
and Fakes
‘One of the best new travel books’
Guardian
f i r s t p u b l i s h e d i n 2 0 1 6 b y p o ly g o n ,
a n i m p r i n t o f b i r l i n n lt d
t h i s e d i t i o n p u b l i s h e d i n pa p e r b a c k i n 2 0 2 0 THE
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West Newington House
UN-DISCOVERED
10 Newington Road
Edinburgh
e h 9 1 qs
ISLANDS
www.polygonbooks.co.uk
Thule
Frisland
The Island of Buss
Hy Brasil
Fusang Isle Phelipeaux
St Brendan’s
Lemuria Onaseuse
Hawaiki
Kibu
Javasu
Sandy Island
Davis Land
The Auroras
Some of these islands never appeared on maps, while others moved location, sometimes
more than once. Their positions here should be considered only approximate.
introduction the un-discovered islands
I
remember well the motto of was supposed to inspire young Shetlanders. It
the Anderson High School was part of the history of our school and the
in Lerwick, displayed on the brightly history of our islands. The implication was
coloured crest that was fixed to the gates that, if heeded, these words could help shape our
outside. ‘Dö weel and persevere’, it counselled. futures too. Hard work and perseverance: those
At some point we pupils must have been told the were the lessons that would lead us forward.
origin of these words, for they were intimately Accompanying that motto on the crest
tied to the place itself. ‘Dö weel and persevere’ were three Viking images – an axe, a longship
was the formative advice given in 1808 to the and a flaming brand – alongside another, more
young man Arthur Anderson, later to be the ambiguous inscription. On a yellow scroll across
industrialist Arthur Anderson, co-founder of the the centre of the emblem were three words in
p&o shipping company, member of parliament Latin that pointed to a rather different part of
for Orkney and Shetland, and benefactor of the our history. ‘Dispecta est Thule’ : Thule was seen.
school that still bears his name. Though I passed through those gates count
It was not a particularly stirring piece of less times in my years at school, no teacher ever
advice. To me it sounded half-hearted, like the explained the Latin words they bore, and I
words of an inattentive father patting his son never bothered to ask. From somewhere, I had
absent-mindedly on the head. But the story of gathered a vague notion that Thule was supposed
Anderson’s rise from poverty to philanthropy to be the edge of the world, and that somehow
[ viii ] [ ix ]
aced with the sky we
imagine gods; faced with
the ocean we imagine
islands. Absence is terrify
ing, and so we fill the gaps in our know
[4] [5]
the un-discovered islands i s l a n d s o f l i f e & d e at h
[6] [7]
or travellers in the last cen-
turies bc and the first mil-
lennium ad, the boundaries
of geographical know
ledge
were narrow. People understood that the
world was big and that their part of it
was small, but they knew little of what
Setting
lay beyond. The map was hardly more
Out
than a sketch, its edges crowded with spec-
ulation. Those who did make journeys to-
wards those edges would encounter things
they had never seen or even heard about
before. The ocean was a terrifying, won-
derful place, where legends and facts
would mingle, and where anything imag-
inable might be possible. • During these
centuries, extraordinary journeys were tak- are hard to separate from fiction. Legendary
ing place all over the world. In the Pacific, islands appeared on charts of the Atlantic
the Polynesians were navigating across thou- as late as the nineteenth century without
sands of miles, using skills their descendants any proof of their existence, yet stories of
still employ today. In the North Atlantic, Viking expeditions to ‘Vinland’ more than
the Norsemen were island-hopping, from one thousand years ago were widely con-
and even to North America. They too de- dence of Norse settlement was uncovered
in L’Anse aux Meadows, Newfoundland, in
veloped a rare competence at sea, which
1960. • Some of the islands in this chapter
took them to places no European had ever
may likewise be real places, but it is impossi-
been before. • Everywhere, human beings
ble now to know. Their stories are so distant,
were crossing the oceans in search of new
and so infused with the imaginary, that they
land. Some of these journeys were record-
exist today only in name. With nowhere left
ed in writing, some in oral traditions, and
to go, they are true ex-isles.
others on maps. But myth and geography
are difficult to prise apart after so long. Facts
the un-discovered islands setting out
[ 38 ] [ 39 ]
the un-discovered islands setting out
[ 40 ] [ 41 ]
the un-discovered islands setting out
where they began to settle in the middle of the first responsible for founding, among other institu-
tions, the monastery at Clonfert in the west of
millennium ad.
Ireland. But it was not his work within the church
The monastery at Iona was founded in the
for which he is principally remembered, it was his
Previous spread: Part of Carte de la Barbarie de la Nıgritie et de La adventures overseas.
Guinee, 1707, by Guillaume Delisle. Library of Congress. Detail on
There are several versions of the Brendan story,
right, from west of the Canaries, showing St Brendan’s Island (as
Isle de St Borondon). each of them differing slightly from the others.
[ 60 ] [ 61 ]
the un-discovered islands setting out
Those that have survived were largely written fire, which surely must have been volcanoes, as well
between the tenth and twelfth centuries, but were as a huge column ‘the colour of silver’ and ‘hard as
based on earlier texts. This was a tale that was marble’, consisting ‘of the clearest crystal’. It could
widely known across northern Europe in the High only have been an iceberg.
Middle Ages. After seven long years, the travellers finally
Depending on which version you read, the reached the place they had been seeking. It was, like
saint set off from Ireland in the year 512 with sixty the rest of their journey, extraordinary.
followers, or perhaps sixteen, or fourteen. He was When they had disembarked, they saw a land,
prompted to go by news of a glorious island – the extensive and thickly set with trees, laden with
Land of Promise of the Saints – described to him fruits, as in the autumn season. All the time
by a returning priest (or else an angel). On the they were traversing that land, during their
journey that ensued, the monks met other holy stay in it, no night was there, but a light always
men, as well as demons, and even the tormented shone, like the light of the sun in the meridian,
soul of Judas Iscariot. They were chased by a sea and for the forty days they viewed the land
serpent and a griffin; they encountered a dragon in various directions, they could not find the
and landed on the back of a whale, mistaking it limits thereof.
for an island. Elsewhere, they alighted on several This, clearly, was an Isle of the Blessed wrap
new lands, including one known as the Paradise of ped up in Christian language. It was a paradise
Birds, and another that was home to sheep larger on earth, to which good people would ultimately
than oxen. The monks saw islands of smoke and find their way. According to a young man ‘of
[ 62 ] [ 63 ]
the un-discovered islands t h e a g e o f e x p l o r at i o n
[ 84 ] [ 85 ]
the un-discovered islands
[ 92 ] [ 93 ]
the un-discovered islands t h e a g e o f e x p l o r at i o n
[ 94 ] [ 95 ]
the un-discovered islands sunken islands
[ 146 ] [ 147 ]
the un-discovered islands sunken islands
ent resource altogether that brought conflict to less, and the us was soon forced to apologise and
withdraw. (Twelve years later, Spain succeeded
Previous spread: A map of Oceania from Keith Johnston’s General
in occupying the Chincha Islands, sparking a war
Atlas, 1861. David Rumsey Historical Map Collection. The detail
shows Sarah Ann Island (as Sarah Anne). with Peru, before it too had to withdraw. By that
[ 148 ] [ 149 ]
the un-discovered islands sunken islands
time, guano accounted for about sixty per cent of equatorial Pacific Ocean – and among the earliest
Peru’s total income, and the Chincha Islands were of these was Sarah Ann Island (sometimes called
the most productive region of all. The country had Sarah Anne), registered in 1858 by the United States
no choice but to defend them.) Guano Company. It was supposed to lie about
Having failed to make inroads in South 4 degrees north and 154 degrees west.
America, the United States then decided to try its Like the scores of other islets and atolls in
luck elsewhere. In 1856, Congress passed a law the Pacific that never really existed, Sarah Ann
known as the Guano Act, which essentially gave should have faded quietly from the map. But
permission for a land grab. instead, a coincidence of geography briefly made it
Whenever any citizen of the United States famous. In the early 1930s, the United States Naval
discovers a deposit of guano on any island, Observatory was looking for a convenient place
rock, key, not within the lawful jurisdiction from which to watch the total solar eclipse that
of any other government, and not occupied was due in the summer of 1937. Searching their
by the citizens of any other government, and charts for the ideal location, right in the path of
takes peaceable possession thereof, and occupies the eclipse, they hit upon Sarah Ann. But when the
the same, such island, rock, or key may, at the astronomers went looking for it, Sarah Ann was
discretion of the President, be considered as nowhere to be found.
appertaining to the United States. Somehow, the idea that the island had sunk
More than a hundred islands were ultimately became widespread. Newspapers and maga-
claimed under this law – most of them in the zines at the time repeated this claim, sometimes
[ 150 ] [ 151 ]
the un-discovered islands sunken islands
concocting apocalyptic stories to explain the than as a phantom. Yet quite why this explanation
event. In December 1933, the mılwaukee Journal came to be accepted is difficult to understand. After
published a lengthy article about the disappear- all, as early as 1859 – just one year after it was
ance, claiming the entire Pacific region was in a registered with the us government – articles
state of unprecedented upheaval. appeared in several publications declaring the
island to be ‘of doubtful existence’, and a search in
Coincident with the submerging of Sarah Ann
the 1870s turned up nothing. It seems certain that
island have come reports of immense activity
no one ever extracted guano from it.
all over the Pacific bottom, some islands
So the question of what actually happened to
slowly submerging and, in other instances,
Sarah Ann remains open. And looking back to the
submerged peaks slowly rising to the surface
first known mention of the island, the story seems
to become islands. Submarine explosions and
even murkier. That mention came in December
eruptions, tidal waves of various dimensions
1854, when the Alice Frazier, a whaling vessel,
and velocities and earthquakes in southern
was travelling south from Honolulu. The skipper
California, Central and South America and
on the voyage was Daniel Taber, whose wife and
new Zealand, have attended this activity in two daughters were also on board, and the eldest
the Pacific basin, while old volcanoes, long of his daughters, ten-year-old Asenath, was
quiescent, have again commenced eruption. keeping a journal. The crucial entry was made
And so the story of the island’s sinking on 10 December, and it amounts to only a few
stuck. Even today, at the time of writing, Sarah words: ‘We passed quite near the Sarah-Ann &
Ann is described on Wikipedia as ‘submerged’ rather Christmas Islands’.
[ 152 ] [ 153 ]
the un-discovered islands sunken islands
Brief as it is, there are several things worth same longitude as Sarah Ann, but at 4 degrees
noticing about this entry. First, Asenath does not south rather than north of the equator. Perhaps,
make it clear if these islands were actually seen, like many such islands in the nineteenth century,
or if the ship merely ‘passed quite near’ where they Malden was known by more than one name. And
expected them to be. Second, at least one of the perhaps, banking on the possibility that they were
details must be incorrect. Christmas Island – now in fact two islands rather than one, the United
known as Kiritimati – is a real place, lying about States Guano Company claimed both of them. The
2 degrees n. and 157 degrees w. But Asenath also change of latitude may have been merely an error,
claims the ship had ‘crossed the line’ (i.e. the compounded by Sarah Ann’s failure to surface.
equator) two days earlier. So by this time they must
have been several degrees south of that position. A
log kept by crewman Benjamin F. Pierce confirms
this. He puts the ship at 3 degrees s. and 155 degrees
w. on 10 December, but makes no mention of Sarah
Ann or Christmas Island.
These contradictions do not provide a certain
answer, but they do hint at a possible solution. What
they suggest is a case of double identities, with
one standout contender. For there is another
island in this region – Malden – which lies at the
[ 154 ] [ 155 ]
the un-discovered islands sunken islands
[ 156 ] [ 157 ]
the un-discovered islands sunken islands
[ 158 ] [ 159 ]
the un-discovered islands fraudulent islands
[ 188 ] [ 189 ]
the un-discovered islands fraudulent islands
[ 196 ] [ 197 ]
n 1875, the British Royal Navy
decided it was time for a tidy
up. They knew their charts
of the Pacific were littered
with inaccuracies, and Captain Sir Frederick
Evans was tasked with putting them right. In
Recent total, Evans deleted 123 phantom islands from
Un- the Admiralty’s maps (though three of these
discoveries later turned out to be real). It was a signifi-
cant achievement, and a sign of just how many
errors had been lingering unnoticed. But it
was far from the end of the story. • If the
preceding centuries had been an age of great
geographical discoveries, the twentieth was
largely a time of un-discovery, when virtu-
ally all the remaining ex-isles were finally
expunged. Many of these, understandably, in the latter half of the twentieth century,
were in the Arctic and Antarctic. These were when satellites revolutionised our view of the
most difficult regions in which to travel, and world, one could finally check an island’s loca-
the last to be properly explored. They were tion without the inconvenience of actually
also the places where optical illusions such having to visit. • Today the era of new island
as fata morgana were most liable to confuse discoveries is over, and the age of un-discov-
weary sailors, and where enormous icebergs ery is likewise coming to an end. But that
convenience is accompanied by loss. For
were sometimes hard to distinguish from tiny
millennia our oceans have been populated
islands. • For a long time there was good
by imagined islands, reflecting back at us
reason to leave uncertain islands, shoals and
something about our understanding of the
reefs on the map, even after doubts had been
world. But now these places are endangered
raised. Such things could be a real danger to
and headed for extinction. We are paying for
shipping, and it was better to be cautious than
our cartographic completeness with a feel-
to be sorry. But when navigational technol-
ing that something, somewhere, is missing.
ogy finally made it possible to determine a
location precisely, this began to change. And
the un-discovered islands recent un-discoveries
[ 206 ] [ 207 ]
the un-discovered islands recent un-discoveries
los jardines to another; and when they still could not be seen,
they became smaller. For century after century,
mariners and cartographers gave them the benefit
of the doubt. So while other Pacific phantoms were
erased one by one, Los Jardines stood firm, the
tiny letters e.d. – existence doubtful – sometimes
os Jardines should not have survived appended to their name like a badge of honour. It
for as long as they did. As phantom was not until the Second World War that they
islands go, they are among the most began to disappear from charts, and not until 1973
inexplicably stubborn. In the four hundred years that the International Hydrographic Bureau finally
or more in which they remained on the map, the let go of them altogether. They had had a long
islands changed size, shifted their location by and restless life.
twelve degrees of latitude, and shrank from ten The islands were first mentioned by Álvaro de
to just two. They could never have been all that Saavedra, the cousin of Hernán Cortés, destroyer
they were supposed to be, and in the end they were of the Aztec Empire. Saavedra was employed by
nothing at all. Cortés to undertake an expedition from New Spain
But perhaps it was that very ability to transform to the Indonesian Maluku Islands in 1527. Despite
themselves that saved the islands for so long. When losing two of the three vessels that set out on
that voyage, Saavedra succeeded, and in doing so
Previous spread: From British Possessions and Colonies by William
Balfour Irvine, 1899. British Library. Los Jardines are shown at
became the first European sailor to cross the Pacific
around 20º north and 150º east. Ocean from east to west.
[ 208 ] [ 209 ]
the un-discovered islands recent un-discoveries
[ 218 ] [ 219 ]
the un-discovered islands recent un-discoveries
[ 222 ] [ 223 ]
the un-discovered islands recent un-discoveries
[ 236 ] [ 237 ]
recent un-discoveries
sandy island long by three miles wide, was clearly shown, along-
side its name: Sandy Island.
The researchers approached the stated posi-
tion with some caution. After all, they had no idea
exactly what to expect. A half-submerged sand-
bar, a reef or shoal: such hazards are no less real
n November 2012, the Southern Surveyor, a in the twenty-first century than they ever were
research vessel from Australia, was in the
before, and the ambiguity of the available infor-
Coral Sea west of New Caledonia. The
mation meant that hidden dangers were a real
scientists on board were studying the tectonic
possibility. But in the end their caution proved un-
evolution of the region, but took a break from their
necessary. The ocean floor remained stubbornly in
work to investigate a rather peculiar anomaly.
place, more than a kilometre beneath them. The
They had noticed that an island indicated on
ship sailed right through the middle of Sandy Is-
some of their maps was not present on the nautical
land, and Sandy Island wasn’t there.
chart they were using. According to the chart, the
Within a few days, the world’s media were
ocean was never less than 1,400 metres deep in that
relating the details of this un-discovery to their
area, yet the maps – and Google Earth – indicated
readers. The Sydney morning Herald gleefully
Previous spread: Pacific Ocean in four sheets, 1875, drawn by R.C. Car- announced ‘The mystery of the missing island’,
rington; south west sheet. Auckland War Memorial Museum Tā-
maki Paenga Hira. Right, detail showing Sandy Island.
while the Guardian called it ‘The Pacific island
[ 238 ] [ 239 ]
other un-discovered islands
other un-discovered
islands
[ 245 ]
the un-discovered islands f u rt h e r r e a d i n g
General
t e r r a n o va i s l a n d s
Phillip Law, quoted in the Independent, 16 May 2010. William H. Babcock, Legendary Islands of the
Phillip Law, quoted in the Scotsman, 11 March 2010. Atlantic (American Geographical Society, 1922).
Phillip Law, quoted in Antarktis by Norbert Roland Donald S. Johnson, The Phantom Islands of the
(Spektrum Akademischer Verlag, 2009). Atlantic (Souvenir Press, 1997).
Telex sent by Dr Roland from the Polar queen, Raymond H. Ramsay, no Longer on the map
quoted in Antarktis by Norbert Roland (Spektrum (Ballantine Books, 1973).
Akademischer Verlag, 2009). (Translated from the Henry Stommel, Lost Islands (University of British
German by Anja Hedrich.) Columbia Press, 1984).
Individual Islands
[ 254 ] [ 255 ]
the un-discovered islands
[ 256 ]