Manta Manual
Manta Manual
MULTIPROBE MANUAL
This manual (rev. 11-2018) covers Eureka’s Manta2, Manta+, and Trimeter models.
For simplicity the term “Manta” is used collectively for all models.
CONTENTS
B Manta Basics………………..................................................................................................
B.1 Deployment Specifications…..................................................................................................
B.2 Manta Control Software Flow Chart.......................................................................................
B.3 The Manta Has Four Basic Applications..................................................................................
B.4 Underwater Cables.................................................................................................................
B.5 Operating the Manta with Eureka’s Amphibian2 .................................................................
B.6 What do the LED lights mean? ............................................................................................
B.7 The USB Converter.................................................................................................................
B.8 Accessories.............................................................................................................................
B.9 Flow Cell.................................................................................................................................
B.10 Routine Maintenance.............................................................................................................
E Data Logging...................................................................................................................
E.1 What’s the difference between “Logging” and “Snapshot”?..................................................
E.2 Why We Do Logging the Way We Do.....................................................................................
E.3 Sensor Warm-up....................................................................................................................
E.4 Setting Up Logging Runs, Logging File Management, Logging Interval...................................
E.5 Activating Manta Logging.......................................................................................................
2
1 3
4
7
5
6
17 The Manta Multiprobe is configured with your choice of sensors, and with or without a battery
pack.
18 The Underwater Cable connects the Manta to a Data Display (PC, Amphibian, logger, telemetry
device or, using the Bluetooth Battery, a tablet or smart phone).
19 The Storage/Calibration Cup protects the sensors when the Manta is not in use (keep a few ounces
of tap water in the S/C Cup when the Manta is not being used). And with the lid removed, it holds
your calibration solutions.
20 The Manta Flash Drive contains the software for connecting your Manta to your PC or other Data
Display, plus a digital copy of this manual, several instructional videos, and several technical notes.
21 The optional Data Cable lets you communicate conveniently with your Manta when an Underwater
Cable is not needed, for instance, during Calibration.
22 The USB Adapter connects between your Underwater Cable (or Data Cable) and a USB port on your
Display Device. The USB Adapter can also connect an external power supply to your Manta if USB
power is not adequate (particularly with long Underwater Cables or large number of sensors).
23 The Maintenance Kit contains all the tools and maintenance items needed to keep your Manta in
top shape.
24 The Weighted Sensor Guard replaces the Storage/Calibration Cup to protect the sensors during
deployment, and to help the Manta sink.
Eureka Flash
Drive
2 When the dialog box shown below opens, click Install Manta Software to upload the Manta User
Interface software and the USB Driver software onto your PC.
This software installation process should take only a few minutes. Please call us (512-302-
4333, Ext 1111) if you have any problems.
Note that you can download the Manta manual and various videos and technical documents that
are stored on the Eureka Flash Drive.
3 If your Windows did not create on your Desktop a shortcut to the Manta
Control Software, and you would like to have one, click the Start button
in the lower left of your screen, click All Programs, click the Eureka folder,
right-click “Manta 2 Control Software”, and drag it to your desktop.
Manta 2 Control
Software
4 Now connect your Manta to the USB Adapter using either a Manta Data
Cable or Underwater Cable. Click the Eureka “fish” icon to connect your PC and Manta. The Home
Page will appear, showing the Manta’s real-time data and various menu options. You can close the
program by clicking the X in the upper right corner.
2 Click the Eureka icon to launch the Manta Control Software. Soon you will see the Home Page and
the data being sent from your Manta.
3 Fill the Storage/Calibration Cup with tap water or conductivity standard and wait for the
conductivity reading to stabilize.
4 Click the Manta pull-down menu on the Home Page and click Calibrate, and then click SpCond on the
next screen.
Was that easy, or what? Don’t you wish you had back all those frustrating, life-shortening, soul-crushing
hours you spent trying to decipher those other multiprobe manufacturers’ software?
Eureka is the only major multiprobe manufacturer that provides a three-year warranty that
covers all sensors, including pH and DO.
If you are using a power supply that plugs into the wall, please use a GFI-equipped circuit.
B.8 Accessories
Eureka provides a number of accessories for the Manta, including carrying cases, anti-fouling kits, SDI-12
converters, data displays, telemetry systems, cable reels, etc. Please see the Eureka Web page
(www.WaterProbes.com) for more details.
PC or
Manta 2
Amphibian
type in the
correct time and
Note: All MantaMinder screens have Time & Date date, or
"OK", "Cancel", and "Help" buttons. synchronize with
Click on "OK" to implement whatever your PC
changes you have made; click on
"Cancel" to go back to the Main Screen SC in uS/cm, pH (2- follow the
without implementing any changes; click point), Depth … all parameter-
on "Help" to get, well, help. the paramerters for specific
which your manta 2 instructions for
is enabled
calibrations
1 Click the “Manta logging is OFF” (or, “Manta logging is ON”) hot button to enable or disable the
Manta’s Logging function. It lets you tell the Manta that you will be deploying it in the field for
unattended Logging. Clicking the hot button toggles the Logging on and off. Generally, Logging
should be off – turn Logging to ON only when you’re preparing for unattended deployment.
3 Click the “Capture One Line of Data to PC without Annotation” hot button to save the most recent
line of data (as shown in the yellow band on the Home Page) in your Snapshot file. (C.3.b)
4 Click the “Capture One Line of Data to PC with Annotation” hot button to save the most recent line
of data (as shown in the yellow band on the Home Page) to your Snapshot file, along with a brief
note that you might wish to append to the data. Type that note in the annotation box. The note will
be saved, along with the data, in your Snapshot file. (C.3.b)
5 Click the “Clear Data from PC Screen” hot button to remove the data you see on the screen and start
over with only the most recent data. Clicking this button does not close the program.
1 Click Set Scroll Interval if you wish to change the time for which lines of data on your Data Display
screen are updated. You can click on a specific scroll interval or type in your own.
2 Click Set Snapshot Location if you wish to specify the file in which your Snapshots are to be filed.
This calls up the standard “Save As” (or equivalent) function of your Data Display’s operating
system. Follow the instructions just as if you were saving, for instance, a new Word document.
A “Snapshot” is what happens when you choose to log, or store, one line of data. That line can be
representative of, say, stabilized readings at 10 meters in a particular lake, or any other line of data
you find interesting. (C.4, E.1)
The software specific to turbidity has changed as well, from 5.21 to 5.22.
In most cases, you can update your Manta’s software with these new softwares if you wish to take
advantage of the new features dealing with turbidity.
solution at routine
calibration
Turbidity 2 points 0 NTU, 10 NTU, 100 NTU, 400 NTU calibrate near expected
value
HDO (Optical DO) calibrate at 100% saturated DI water -shake vigorously to set BP before calibrating,
water oxygenate recal at deployment site
for best accuracy
D.6 Temperature
The Temperature sensor is an electrical resistor (thermistor)
whose resistance changes predictably with temperature.
The sensor is protected by a stainless-steel tube.
Thermistors are very stable with time, and so do not require
calibration.
The manufacturers of optical-DO sensors recommend that you not calibrate the zero-DO point.
However, we support zero-DO calibration in the Manta software, and think it’s a good idea to check your
sensor’s zero from time to time in either of three ways:
1 Dissolve a few grams of sodium sulfite and a pinch of cobalt chloride in a half-liter of tap water. You
can buy this solution ready-to-use but be careful not to aerate the solution by pouring it numerous
times.
2 If you’re like me and think the sodium-sulfite method is yesterday’s news, you can prepare zero-
oxygen water by bubbling nitrogen through water. Use bottled gas and an aquarium-type airstone.
(If you’re using a high-pressure gas bottle, please use a two-stage regulator to prevent unnecessary
excitement.) After bubbling the gas through, say, a liter of water for, say, 10 minutes, you should
have a good zero.
3 The simplest way to check zero response is with nitrogen gas. Wrap the sensor-end of your Manta
with a plastic bag, and feed nitrogen gas into the bag. Make sure there’s another hole at the
opposite end of the bag for the air to escape, otherwise you won’t get a good zero and the
exploding bag will cause excitement. (If you’re using a high-pressure gas bottle, please use a two-
stage regulator.)
Optical dissolved-oxygen sensor maintenance is little more than occasionally cleaning the sensing
surface (the black material; about a centimeter diameter) with a cloth and soapy water.
Optical dissolved-oxygen sensors usually have very low drift rates (compared to the old Clark sensors),
so practice will show you how often to calibrate your optical sensor. You might also find that one or
other of the calibration points does not require calibration
every time you set the other point.
The tip of the Eureka optical dissolved oxygen sensor (HDO)
must be replaced periodically, typically once every 4 years. If
your SRF reports less than 100% or if you notice that the
sensor’s readings are getting noisy (i.e. jumpy), then it’s
probably time to change the tip by unscrewing the old tip
and replacing it with a new tip. Recalibrate and you’re ready
to go.
D.8 Conductivity
Eureka uses the four-electrode method to
determine water conductivity. Two pairs of
D.9 pH
pH is measured as the voltage drop across the glass
membrane of a pH electrode. A reference electrode is
used to complete the voltage-measuring circuit. The
pH glass is specially formulated to absorb water so
that ions (particularly H+ and OH-) in the water are
attracted to the glass to offset the ionic constituency
of the pH electrode’s internal electrolyte. As a result, there is a charge separation across the glass, and
that’s the voltage we measure. pH readings are automatically compensated for temperature.
pH electrode maintenance is nothing more than occasionally cleaning the glass surface with a soft cloth
and soapy water. Do not use anything abrasive. The really important part of pH maintenance is refilling
the reference electrode. (D.10)
You can choose a two- or three-point pH calibration. The two-point calibration, a seven buffer and a
second buffer whose value is near that of the waters you intend to monitor, is recommended. If you are
measuring in waters whose pH might range above and below seven, you can increase your accuracy
slightly by choosing a three-point calibration (the third buffer should be on the other side of seven). pH
calibration is simple:
2 Rinse your sensors several times with the pH buffer you’ll use for calibration.
3 Screw the reference cap back on to the sleeve. As you screw the sleeve into place, air and excess
electrolyte is forced out of the sleeve through the reference electrode junction (the white, porous
circle at the end of the sleeve). This not only purges bubbles from the electrolyte, but also cleans
nasty stuff out of the junction.
Other manufacturers may tell you that their integral, or combination, reference electrode
is better. This is not true.
First of all, every year or so you have to buy a new combination electrode for about $300
and install the whole thing yourself. Second, combination electrodes usually employ
“gelled” electrolyte, and are therefore inclined to calibrating easily in standard pH buffers
but measure poorly in low-conductivity waters (like < 200umhos). With the Eureka-style
reference electrode you spend a few pennies and a few minutes every month or two
D.11 ORP
ORP is measured as the voltage drop across the platinum membrane of an ORP electrode. The
actual ORP sensor is the 1 mm silver-colored dot you can see when looking down at the pH sensor – if
your Manta has ORP. A reference electrode is used to complete the voltage-measuring circuit.
Because platinum does not react with ions in the
water, it won’t give or take any electrons from those
ions unless they are very persuasive. The potential
(voltage) created by this refusal is what you’re actually
measuring as ORP.
ORP electrode maintenance is nothing more than occasionally cleaning the platinum surface with a
soft cloth and soapy water. If the platinum is discoloured, you can polish the ORP electrode with very
light abrasive, like 900-grit wet-and-dry sandpaper (please be careful not to polish the pH glass bulb).
The important part of ORP maintenance is refilling the reference electrode. (D.9)
ORP uses a one-point calibration:
1 Rinse your sensors several times with the ORP standard you’ll use for calibration.
2 Fill the calibration cup with enough ORP standard to cover both the ORP and reference electrodes.
3 Follow the Manta Control Software calibration instructions after selecting ORP_mV to calibrate.
D.13 Turbidity
Turbidity is measured as the fraction of an infrared light beam
that is scattered at 90° to that beam. More particles in the water
mean more of that light is scattered, so the Turbidity reading is
higher. Any
material that accumulates on the optical surfaces of the
Turbidity sensor is indistinguishable from material in the water,
so most Turbidity sensors have little wipers to clean the
window(s).
Turbidity sensors require no regular maintenance, but you might
check occasionally to make sure the optical window (i.e. the
little glass port on the front of the sensor) has not been damaged by overzealous wiping.
Turbidity uses a two-point calibration; one point is zero turbidity and the other point should be a
standard approximating the turbidity of the water you intend to monitor.
Make sure you use enough calibration standard to cover the sensor’s “optical volume” – imagine a
tennis ball stuck on the end of the sensor; make sure there are no objects in the volume represented by
that ball. One common method is keeping calibration solutions in one-liter, dark, wide-neck bottles with
a non-reflective finish (such as Nalgene 2106 bottles in amber, available from Eureka).
For the zero calibration:
1 Make sure the Turbidity sensor is fully immersed (i.e. at least 1 ½ inches of solution over the sensor)
in zero-turbidity standard and has an unobstructed optical path.
2 Follow the Manta2 Control Software’s calibration instructions.
For the other calibration point:
Do not over-tighten the set screw on the little rotating arm that holds the wiper pad; that
will strip the threads, and that will cause cursing once you realize what you did. And
don’t rotate the wiper arm manually; that will strip the gears and stick you with a big,
hard-to-explain repair bill.
Your turbidity sensor may be equipped at the factory with an extended brush arm. For best results,
change the brush frequently by pulling the old brush out of the brush arm body, and sliding a fresh
brush into the brush slot as shown below.
Use the first Allen wrench from your wiper kit to remove the standard turbidity sensor wiper. Use the
other Allen wrench to install the Eureka brush arm. Notice that the Allen set screw seats on the flat side
of the wiper motor shaft.
D.14 Fluorometers
Eureka’s chlorophyll, rhodamine, blue-green algae, CDOM,
fluoroscein, and crude oil sensors are Turner Designs
fluorometric sensors, with each tuned to the slightly different
wavelengths.
Fluorescence occurs when a molecule absorbs light at one
wavelength and then emits that energy at a different
wavelength. More molecules of analyte produce a higher level of that different-wavelength light.
Fluorometric sensors emit light at a certain wavelength, and look for a very specific, different
wavelength in return. The magnitude of the return light is relatable to the amount of analyte
present.
Note that there are two types of blue-green algae sensors – fresh-water and marine.
Note that CDOM, or Colored Dissolved Organic Matter, is also known as fDOM (fluorescent Dissolved
Organic Matter), chromophoric dissolved organic matter, yellow substance, and gelbstoff.
Note that there are many different types of crude oil, and each has a relatively unique fluorescence
response.
We use Turner Designs fluorometers because Turner is recognized as the world’s leading
manufacturer of miniature fluorescence sensors.
There are several conventional ways to calibrate fluorometers; those are explained in Calibrating
Eureka’s Turner Fluorometers. Eureka also has a new method for “standardizing” fluorometers if you do
It’s a good idea to limit the submersion of ISE’s to about 10 meters. If you need to go
Note that the Ammonium ISE senses ammonium, but at pH’s higher than about 8 the ammonium (NH4+)
is mostly converted into ammonia gas (NH3). Eureka’s software uses the pH, Conductivity, and
Temperature of the sample water to calculate Ammonia (as mg/L-N). You can also display Total
Ammonia; the sum of Ammonia and Ammonium.
Note that Ammonium and Nitrate ISE’s suffer interference from positive ions, especially potassium and
sodium, and Sodium ISE’s suffer interference from positive ions, especially potassium and ammonium.
The Chloride ISE does not normally suffer from interfering ions.
Note that Eureka’s Sodium ISE has a plastic membrane with a wider pH range (pH 3 – 10) and less pH
interference than the traditional sodium ISE’s (which are made with glass membranes). This sensor is
specified to have a 10-second response time and a range of 0.05 – 2,300 mg/L Na+. The sodium ISE can
be immersed to 15 meters of water without damage, but there may be a pressure effect on the reading.
Although Eureka testing on a limited sample size showed this error to be within our ±20% accuracy
specification, we recommend that users check the performance of their particular sensors under actual
field conditions.
Note that that the Sodium ISE has a slow response to changes in temperature and may take many
minutes to reach a final reading when the temperature changes significantly.
If your Manta is equipped with more than one ISE, use care when replacing tips so that you don’t put a
tip on the wrong sensor (for example put a Nitrate on the Sodium sensor).
ISE calibration is more complex than calibrations for most other sensors, but we’ve made it as simple as
possible in Calibrating Ion-Selective Electrodes: The Difference between Activity and Concentration. This
document can be found on the Eureka Flash Drive and Eureka’s Web page (www.WaterProbes.com).
D.17 PAR
The PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) sensor measures the amount of light available to biota for
photosynthesis. It’s units of measurement are micro-moles of photons per square meter per second, or
photon μmoles/m2 second. This is also referred to as micro-Einsteins per square meter per second.
The sensor looks like a light bulb and receives light from all directions except the “blind spot” at its base.
Eureka mounts the PAR sensor a few inches away from the multiprobe, facing away from the
multiprobe, so that the multiprobe is in the blind spot.
PAR sensors are supplied with a dummy plug so that you can use the Manta 2 without the PAR sensor
attached.
PAR measurement is accessed for display through the menu structure just like
all other sensors. The PAR sensor is calibrated at the LI-COR factory, and
cannot be calibrated by the user. LI-COR recommends that the sensor be
returned to the factory every couple of years to be re-calibrated.
PAR sensors are not attached to the multiprobe when shipped from Eureka;
there is a dummy plug in the PAR port. To attach the PAR sensor, simply
unscrew the dummy plug’s locking sleeve (it’s the same type locking sleeve
used for Eureka cables) and pull the dummy plug out of the port. Slide the
locking sleeve onto the non-light-bulb end of the PAR sensor and push the
PAR sensor into the port as you tighten the locking sleeve. This may take a
little bit of practice, as the locking sleeve’s off-center hole has to shift slightly
to center of the PAR sensor and its port.
Batteries loaded backwards (reversed polarity) can damage any battery pack and may
cause pressure to build up inside the battery pack. So please pay careful attention to the
polarity markers found on all Eureka battery packs.
Then all you have to do to start Logging for Trimeter and Manta 20, 25, and 30 models is load batteries.
For convenience, you may wish to take a Data Display to the field so that you can activate Logging right
before you place the Manta in the water. Don’t forget to activate Logging.
All you have to do to start Logging for Manta 35 and 40 models is load batteries and, when you get to
the field, turn the IBP switch on the top cap to “ON”. Don’t forget to activate Logging.
Don’t forget that the blinking green LED tells you that you have adequate voltage to begin logging, and
the blinking red LED tells you that Logging is indeed enabled.
E.7.a Changing IBP Batteries in Manta 20, 25, and Trimeters and Activating Logging
1 Replace all batteries at the same time and use the same brand of battery.
2 Clean all moisture, dirt, grit and any other debris off the Manta because you are going to expose
sealing surfaces as you change the batteries.
3 Grasp the clear battery sleeve that covers the battery housing and unscrew it until it detaches from
the IBP body.
4 Remove the spent batteries and install the new ones carefully following the polarity diagram. Your
Manta is now logging, if you have activated Logging. De-activate Logging if you don’t want to be
Logging now.
5 Clean all moisture, dirt, grit and any other debris off the exposed O-ring surfaces and the inside of
the battery sleeve. Add a small amount of silicone grease to the O-rings and to the inside of the
battery sleeve where the O-rings will seat.
6 Carefully screw the battery sleeve back into place. You don’t have to tighten it closely to the IBP
body; finger-tight is fine.
3 Grasp the polymer “eyebolt” on the top of the battery housing and unscrew it until the top cap and
clear housing detach from the Manta body.
4 Remove the spent batteries and install eight C-cell batteries (or six D-cell batteries) carefully
following the polarity diagram.
5 Clean all moisture, dirt, grit and any other debris off the exposed O-ring surfaces and the inside of
the battery sleeve. Add a small amount of silicone grease to the O-rings and to the inside of the
battery sleeve where the O-rings will seat.
6 Carefully place the top cap – clear housing back into place, and screw the eyebolt until the clear
housing seats on the Manta. You don’t have to tighten it closely to the IBP body; finger-tight is fine.
7 Remember that you must first activate Manta Logging by clicking the “Manta2 Logging is OFF” Hot
Button so that it changes to “Manta2 Logging is ON”. (C.3, E.5)
E.7.c Changing IBP Batteries in Manta 35 and 40 Model and Activating Logging
1 Replace all batteries at the same time and use the same brand of battery.
2 Clean all moisture, dirt, grit and any other debris off the Manta because you are going to expose
sealing surfaces as you change the batteries.
4 Remove the spent batteries and install eight C-cell batteries (or six D-cell batteries) carefully
following the polarity diagram.
gap in connector
pins
white dot
5 Grasping only the Manta and EBP locking sleeve (the portion of the lower EPB with the serrations), turn
the EBP locking sleeve so that it screws into the threads where the Underwater Cable locking sleeve is
normally fitted. You may have to jiggle the EBP a bit so that the hexagonal sleeve fits properly over the
hexagonal base of the connector.
6 Tighten the EBP locking sleeve firmly, but not so tightly that you will have difficulty removing it later.
7 Remember that you must first activate Manta Logging by clicking the “Manta2 Logging is OFF” Hot
Button so that it changes to “Manta Logging is ON”. (C.3, E.5)
8 Remember to look for the red LED to blink five times to confirm that Logging is activated, and the
green LED blink briefly to confirm that the Manta is receiving adequate voltage to start Logging.
Your Manta is now logging, and will continue logging until you remove the EBP, or your batteries are depleted.
To remove the EBP, grasp the Manta with one hand and the EBP locking sleeve with the other, and unscrew
the EBP locking sleeve. Pull the Manta and EBP apart
We strongly recommend that you do not use lithium batteries in any Eureka battery pack.
Lithium batteries don’t like water and may cause a dangerous build-up of pressure if they
get wet during a deployment. That pressure can damage the instrument and/or you.
It’s a good idea to remove the batteries from the Manta battery pack if the Manta is not going to be
used for a while. This helps prevent battery leakage.
The copper-gauze method works better than copper screen or copper parts. Solid copper
rapidly develops an oxide coating – stuff may not grow on the copper part, but the copper
will not protect the sensors. The copper gauze dissolves slowly, bathing the sensors in
copper ions that discourage biological growth.
2 The Extended Turbidity Brush attaches to the turbidity sensor and cleans the measurement surfaces
of several sensors, including the Turner fluorometers (chlorophyll, blue-green algae, etc.) and the
Dissolved Oxygen sensor. Available on Manta 30, 35, and 40 models with turbidity sensors.
3 Eureka’s MiniCleaner is used for sensor brushing when the Manta does not have a turbidity sensor
(and hence cannot have the Extended Turbidity Brush). It can be programmed for frequency of
brush cycles and number of sweeps per cycle.
Because on a new Pipe Kit the cap is not glued to the slotted pipe, you can add more pipe (available at
home-improvement centers) before fixing the cap in place.
F.4.a Connecting the Amphibian2 with Bluetooth for the First Time
(Please see F.2 if you wish to connect to your Amphibian2 with a cable instead of via Bluetooth.)
1 Power-on the Amphibian2 Data Display.
2 Turn on the Manta Bluetooth Battery by pushing the on/off button. You will see the LED begin
flashing indicating that the unit is “ON” (if not, recharge the battery using the recharger provided).
3 Enable Bluetooth (BT) on the Amphibian2 by pushing the BT ICON on the start-up screen. Make sure
the BT ICON turns green and says “Discoverable”.
4 On the Amphibian2 Home Page select “Settings”, then “Connections”, and then select the
“Bluetooth” ICON (not the BT COM ICON). Delete any BT devices listed by pressing and holding,
then select delete.
5 Select “Add New Device”, select the Bluetooth ID of your Manta BT when it appears, then select
“Next”.
6 Enter the password “1234”, select ‘Next”, and the display will connect to your Manta BT. Select the
Manta BT device, and put a checkmark on the serial port and then select “Save”.
7 Now select “COM Ports” at the top of the screen. Next select “New Outgoing Port”, then your
Manta BT will show up highlighted. Select “Next” from the bottom and use the pull-down menu to
select an available COM port, such as COM5. Once selected, select “Finish” and then “OK”. Select
“X“ to return to Home Page.
8 On the Home Page, select “Amp_2_2_X” to launch the Manta control software. Upon connection,
the blinking light on the Manta BT will turn solid. Once the software is running and the Amphibian2
is connected via the Manta BT, you should see data scrolling.
9 From now on when the Amphian2 is on, with Bluetooth enabled, and the Manta BT Battery is
switched “ON”, the Manta will be found on the previously-selected COM port, unless you change
the settings.
F.4.c Connect to “Bluetooth Low-Energy” (BLE) Data Displays (Including the IPhone)
1 Install the MantaLink™ application from the Apple App Store.
2 Click “Tap to Connect”.
3 On the Nearby Devices screen select your Manta Bluetooth device, which normally has had a
Bluetooth ID with format MantaBLEXXXX. The Home Page will open with current data.
Logging Setup: Interval and Wiping Logging Setup: Interval and Wiping
Graphs Turned On
10 What is the different between the Amco Clear turbidly standard and StablCal?
Amoco Clear is made of polymer beads while StablCal is a formazin compound. Most people want
their turbidity measurements referenced to formazin, and so use formazin or StablCal for
calibrations. The polymer beads are cheaper and more stable, BUT you must know the equivalent
formazin value for any polymer bead standard. You cannot rely on what’s written on the polymer-
bead label; you must check it with your own instrument after it has been calibrated with formazin or
StablCal. (D.13)
5 Is the colored top line an average of the values or the latest readings?
No; the data in the colored band is the most recent line of data obtained from your Manta. (C.2)
2 For my battery pack when looking in the log file at battery voltage, at what point will the Manta2
stop logging?
The Manta can show the voltage provided via the cable and the voltage provided by an Internal
Battery Pack. The voltage provided by an External Battery Pack is shown as cable voltage. There is
no fixed cut-off point, but any time the battery pack or cable voltage drops below about 5 VDC, the
voltage may not be adequate for the Manta to boot properly. (E.9)
3 What How do I deploy my sonde when there is no bail hook? Is it OK to hang by the cable? How
much weight will the cable hold?
6 Can I use re-chargeable or Lithium batteries in the Internal Battery Pack or External Battery Pack?
We strongly discourage use of lithium batteries in enclosed housings if there is any chance the
batteries could get wet – such as in the IBP or EBP. (E.9)
7 Why is it important to check water temperature in a range of temperatures in the lab before
deployment? How often?
It’s not really that important; the Manta design has been checked may times to make sure it
accounts for water temperature everywhere necessary, such as when calculating DO saturation.
However, it might be instructive to check the performance of your Manta in cold water if you often
operate in cold waters.
G6 General FAQ’s
1 What do the LED’s mean?
Please see B.6.
4 Is your sonde approved by the EPA, USGS, or has it been tested at ACT (Alliance for Coastal
Technologies)?
Yes, and you can see the test reports, including ACT’s Performance Verification Statement
for the Eureka Manta2 pH Sensor (2015), Evaluation of the Eureka Manta2 Water-Quality
Multiprobe Sonde (USGS, 2017), and Eureka Outperforms the Competition, on Eureka’s
Web site.
The Manta2, the first multiprobe in the world with “smart” sensors that were actually smart, was
introduced in 2008. It was even more reliable and easy to use than the Manta1 and has been
accepted by the most discerning field practitioners around the world.
Eureka was acquired by Measurement Specialties, Inc. in 2011 in the usual belief that multiple
synergies would make everyone happy. But the multiprobe market just doesn’t work well in a large,
corporate framework, so partners from Europe, Asia, and America purchased the “old Eureka” in
2014. They resumed business seamlessly as Eureka Water Probes.
The MantaPlus takes all the field-proven qualities of the Manta2, adds a user-interface with a dozen
new features that is still easy to use, and adds a three-year warranty and marine-type connectors.
So, when you ordered your Manta, one of the Eureka product specialists determined the optimum
housing diameter for the sensors you selected. The Manta sizes (outside diameters) are 2 inches
(actually 1.95), 2.5 inches (2.45), 3 inches (2.95), 3.5 inches (3.50), 4 inches (4.00), and occasionally
even 4.5 inches (4.50).
Anytime you wish to add or subtract sensors, we can use all of your Manta’s circuit boards and
sensors in a larger or smaller housing. Cost is minimized, and you still have a conventional Manta
instead of having to change to a different instrument model.
And, of course, the Manta continues Eureka’s tradition of user software that is so easy that most users
rarely read this instruction manual. In fact, you are the only person who has ever read this far.