Dahlia Top
by Emersons Crafting
thank you so much for choosing this pattern and supporting my small business
TERMS OF USE
You may not modify, share, sell, rename, or redistribute this pattern or its associated
photos as your own. It is the property of Emersons Crafting.
Additionally, refrain from sharing this pattern for free. You are permitted to sell finished
items made from this pattern, but please give credit to Emersons Crafting as the designer.
Avoid using this pattern or its photos for commercial purposes.
If you share your creations on Instagram, please tag @emersonscrafting as I would
appreciate seeing your pieces. <3
WHAT YOU NEED
● Since there is no gauge for this pattern you can use whatever yarn and hook size
you want. I used around 960m of a 4 ply yarn (sports weight yarn) and a 3.5mm
hook.
● The yarn I used was Lang Yarns “Quattro Dégradé”. You can check the Testers
Lookbook to find yarn inspiration.
● Measuring tape
● Tapestry needle to weave in the loose ends
ABBREVIATIONS
● hdc → half double crochet
● dc → double crochet
● sl st → slip stitch
● sc → single crochet
● hdc2tog → half double crochet 2 together
● st → stitch
1
MEASUREMENTS
This is a measurement based pattern so gauge is not
relevant. These are the measurements you will need for
this pattern
A. Underbust measurement: _______ cm/in
B. A to where you want the neckline to start: _______
cm/in
C. From the top of the shoulder to A: _______ cm/in
D. Armhole depth: _______ cm/in
E. Arm length: _______ cm/in
Notes:
● Measurement A. goes all around the body and
measures the width or your top.
● Measurement B. determines how long your top
will be before you start with the neckline and
how deep the cleavage will be. For less cleavage,
measure B higher above the nipple. For more
cleavage measure B below the nipple.
● Measurement C. determines how long your top will be.
● Measurement D. determines the size of your sleeve and how deep your arm holes
will be.
● Make sure to take your measurements loosely so that your finished garment will
fit your body comfortably.
● You can adjust any of these measurements to your liking. This will however
change how the garment fits your body.
● For a longer top, take measurement A. further down around your waist. Make
sure to adjust measurements B. and C. to fit the new length as well.
● If you have a larger bust size: it can be recommended to adjust measurement A. so
that you are able to put on your top later. To do that, measure your bust size right
around the bight of your nipple and compare it to measurement A. If there is a
large difference, increase measurement A.
2
FRONT PANEL
In order to make the front panel you will need to start with your measurement A. and
divide it by two. This length will help you determine the length of your starting chain.
Depending on the stretchiness of your yarn and the desired fit, increase or decrease the
amount of stitches in your foundation chain.
1. Start by making a foundation chain in the length of measurement A. divided by
two. Make sure you’ve got an odd amount of stitches. Then make one additional
chain.
2. Hdc into the second stitch of your chain and hdc across your
foundation chain, ch1 and turn.
3. Hdc as many rows as you need until you reach measurement B.
4. You will start with the neckline next. To prepare, place a stitch
marker in the middle stitch of your panel. Make sure you are on the right side.
Then hdc until you are one st away from your stitch
marker. You will start decreasing: hdc2tog the st before
and with the stitch marker. Ch1 and turn.
5. Hdc the next row as normal.
6. In the next row hdc until you have two st left. Then
hdc2tog the last two st. Ch1 and turn.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until you nearly reach measurement
C. Make sure that you are only decreasing on the side of the
neckline.
8. Then add as many rows as you need without decreasing to
reach measurement C.
9. Fasten off and cut the yarn.
10. To start the other side of the neckline you have two options: either hdc from the
other end of the front panel (will be off direction) until you are one st away from
the middle stitch, hdc2tog the two remaining st. ch1 and turn. OR start in the
middle stitch with the hdc2tog and hdc across, ch1 and
turn (same direction as other side).
11. Hdc across the remaining st as normal. Ch1 and turn.
12. Repeat what you did on the other side of the neckline.
3
BACK PANEL
1. Start with chaining the same amount of st as for the front panel.
2. Hdc across that chain, ch1 and turn.
3. Repeat until you are about 2-3cm away from reaching
Measurement C.
4. Start making a new row but only hdc until you have as many st as
in the top part of your front panel. Add as many rows as you need
until you reach Measurement C. Fasten off and cut the yarn.
5. Count the amount of st needed for the other side of the back
panel. Start from the same direction that the row would normally
go and repeat step 4.
ASSEMBLING THE FRONT AND BACK PANEL
1. Sew the top of the front panel together with the top of the back panel.
2. Then sew the sides together, while leaving enough space for the armholes. This
should be the size of measurement D. I’d recommend pinning the sides together
top down where you want the armholes to begin, and to try it on before sewing to
make sure that the armholes sit comfortably.
SLEEVES (2x)
● Attach your yarn at the underside of the armhole space, ch2 and dc along the
armhole. Dc one per row of the armhole (ex: 20 rows = 20 dc). Remember how
many stitches you made in this step because you will need to repeat it for the
second sleeve. At the end of the round join with a sl st in the ch2 that you made at
the beginning of the row.
● Ch2, dc into the second stitch and then all around the round. Join with a sl st at the
beginning of the row.
● Repeat step 2 until you reach the point where you would like to start increasing to
create the “flare” of the sleeves. I recommend trying your Dahlia Top regularly to
find the best fit. Remember how many rows you crocheted, because you will need
to repeat this on the other side.
● Now start with the increases. You can either do the same amount of increases as I
did or calculate your own amount of increases.
a. If you are following my increases: Increase (two dc per stitch) after every
10th stitch. End the round per usual.
4
b. To be more precise you can use your own calculations. More increases per
round will lead to a wider sleeve, whereas less increases will make for a
less exaggerated flare of the sleeve.
● Crochet one round per usual, without any increases.
● Do another increase round. Add an extra stitch before increasing again. So if you
increased after every 10th stitch in the first increase row, now increase after
every 11th st.
● Crochet one round per usual, without any increases.
● Do another increase round. Add an extra stitch before increasing again.
● Repeat these steps until you are a few centimeters away from reaching your
desired arm length.
● Crochet the last couple of rounds without any increases.
Note: I only did three rows of increases, which was
enough to have a moderate flare in the sleeve (as seen
in the picture).
Note: More increases per round and more increase
rounds will lead to a wider sleeve. Keep that in mind
when crocheting and calculating the increases.
5
FINISHING TOUCHES
1. Weave in any loose ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Crochet around the neckline and bottom of the top using sc. If you like, you can
also sc around the bottom of the sleeves, this however could affect their drapiness.
BLOCKING
If you like, you can block your garment to adjust the fit to your liking. This is not
necessary but can help your garment fit you better and drape nicer. This is how I wet
blocked my top:
1. Fill a sink or bucket with lukewarm water with a mild detergent.
2. Submerge your top in the water, gently scrunching it without rubbing to avoid
damage and pilling. Let it soak for 15 minutes.
3. Drain the water and gently squeeze out excess water from your top. Refill the sink
with lukewarm water and repeat the soaking process for 10 minutes, without a
detergent this time.
4. Drain and squeeze out water again.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 once more.
6. Allow excess water to drain, then lay the top flat on a towel.
7. Wrap the towel around the top and gently apply pressure to remove more water.
8. Using a clean and dry towel or a blocking board, lay out your top and pulling it to
the desired shape and size.
9. Leave it to dry completely, which may take several days depending on the room
temperature.
You can use whatever blocking technique you prefer! And with that you are all done and
your Dahlia Top is ready to be worn!
6
THE TESTERS LOOKBOOK
@mollyle33
Lion Brand Coboo
3.5mm hook
@sticky.fingys
“I love this cotton” in the color “Harvert
Hues”
5mm hook
@leo_amano
Merino Gold Madame Tricote
3mm hook
@ketikakait
Baby Soft Yarn
5mm hook
7
@peyheys.crochet
Milk Cotton
4mm hook
@eastpartcrochet
Caron One Pound
5mm hook
@beaknitss
Zeeman “clouds”
5mm hook
@entangled_em
Kotton by Magic Needles
2.5mm hook
8
@thecraftyrocketscientist
Caron Latte Cakes Yarn
5.5mm hook
@krystal_crochetz
Weight 3 acrylic
5mm hook
