Chapter 2: Sizing system

Sizing system is defined as a set of sizes derived using common assumptions, methods of
development & size categories within a system to present in a retail situation. The most
commonly used sizing system is made of base size, often fitted to a fit model& set of sizes
proportionately graded from this size. The foundation and concepts behind these proportional
sizing systems are derived from 19th century tailor’s drafting techniques. The technological
advancements in sewing equipment ,mass cutting technologies ,distribution technologies and
mass production methods contributed to the development of the sizing system that we use in
ready to wear Garments Today .Example of size categories include ; petit size , plus size etc. A
sizing system can be as simple as one-fits-all or SML or as complex as a system that provides a
custom fitted garment for each individual.

Body Measurements & Its’ procedures:

The most crucial and essential step in garment construction is taking body measurement. The fit
of a garment depends on the accuracy of bodymeasurements. A well fitted garment enhances the
look of the person and addsto the personality of the wearer. The measurements needed for
garment makingdepends not only on the style and type of the garment but also on the age
andgender of the user. The only tool required for measurements is a measuring tape.
Use a good quality, pliable tape for measurements. A torn/damaged or stretchytape will give
incorrect measurements

Body measurements for men, women and children:

The process of taking measurements for men and women is alike. Howeverthere are some
measurements that are specific to women like the skirtmeasurements listed down in the
measurement chart below.
Childhood is a stage in life that is marked with rapid growth. Measurementsof these growing
children change rapidly. So every time a dress is bought orbeing made, the child should be
measured. In children usually chest, waist and hip are measured. Their measurements depend on
their ages and they are similar for both boys and girls, till 5 yrs. With increase in age, the
measurements differ. After 6 years separate measurements are to be taken for boys and girls.

Some additional measurements that are required for children are

Thigh Girth: Measure around the fullest part of the thigh. This measurementis useful to draft a
pattern for girl’s bloomer, short pants, parallels, pajamas etc.

Cervical Height: Measure down from the nape of the neck to the ground.
This gives the total length of the garment.
Crotch Length: Pass the tape from the centre back (start at the waistlevel), in between the legs
and to the centre front at the waist level.

Frock length: Measure from the nape of the neck to the desired length ofthe frock as per the
design.

Chest: Similar to the ‘bust measurement’ in the measurement chart.

Procedures for taking measurements:

Bodice measurements

1. Neck: This is a round measurement taken around the base or the largestpart of the neck. Pass
the tape around the neck over the collar bone in the frontand the base of the neck at the back.
This measurement gives the neck widthand is needed for a close fitting collar.

2. Shoulder:This point can be located by feeling for the end of the flatbone at the end of the
shoulder, or by raising the arm until a dimple appears atthe end of the shoulder and feeling for
the shoulder bone in this depression.
The distance between the base of the neck and the end of the shouldergives this measurement.

3. Shoulder width/back width:Measure from one end of the shoulderbone to the other at about 4"
below the back neck.

4. High chest measurement:This measurement will help in getting aclose fit under the armpit,
eliminating the wrinkles. Place the tape straight underthe armpits in the front and across back to
get this measurement. Take care tokeep the tape parallel to the floor both at the front and at the
back

5. Bust:Measure around the fullest part of the bust with the tape heldparallel to the floor. Do not
let the tape sag at the back. The tape should be tightenough so that it does not slip and loose
enough for one finger to pass through.

6. Waist:It is essential to locate the natural waist first, in order to take thismeasurement. The
natural waistline is located above the hip bone in the narrowestpart of the body. A cord tied at the
waist will facilitate in taking this measurement.
Measure around the cord with the tape held parallel to the floor.

7. High Hip:At around 3" below the waistline, hold the tape around thehip to get this
measurement.

8. Hip:Measure around the fullest part of the hip (7" from the waistline)with the tape held parallel
to the floor.
9. Armscye/Armhole: Measure by passing the tape under the armpit andaround the armhole.

10. Front waist length: Measure down from the highest part of the neckover the fullest part of
bust to the waist.

11.Shoulder to bust:Measure down from the highest part of the neck tothe tip of the bust. This is
also called bust point height. This is useful in locatingthe bust point while drafting a blouse.
12. Distance between bust points: A horizontal measurement thatmeasures the distance between
the bust points, useful for dart placement inblouse drafting. This is also called bust point width.

13. Back waist length: Measure down from the highest part of the neckover the centre back to the
waistline.

14. Front neck depth: Measure across from the highest part of the neckdiagonally towards the
centre front.

15. Back neck depth: Measure across from the highest part of the neckdiagonally towards the
centre back.

Sleeve measurements

16. Upper arm: Measure around the fullest part of the biceps with onefinger underneath the tape.

17. Lower arm: Measure around the bottom or at the lower edge of thesleeve.

18. Elbow: Measure around at the elbow of the arm

19. Wrist:Take a round measurement at the wrist level of the arm.

20. Sleeve length:The length of the sleeve varies from one style to another.
For short sleeves, measures down the arm, from the tip of the shoulder to thedesired level. For
full length sleeve, bend the arm slightly at a 90degreeangle andmeasure from the tip of the
shoulder down to the elbow and then on to the wrist.

Skirt measurements

21. Waist to hip:Measure from waist down to the fullest part of the hip.

22. Skirt length:Measure from waistline down to the desired length asper the garment design.

Pant Measurements

23. Pant length: Measure from waistline down to the desired length of thepant.
24. Inseam: Distance from the innermost part of the thigh to the ankle orthe length of the pant.

25. Leg circumference

a. Thigh:Measure around the fullest part of the thigh.
b. Knee:Measure from the waist to the knee.
c. Calf:Measure around the calf muscle
d. Ankle:Measure around the ankle

26. Crotch depth:After sitting on a hard flat surface, measure down fromthe waist to the flat
surface along the side seam.

27. Crotch length: Measure from front waistline to the back waistline bypassing the tape in
between the legs.

Standard Body Measurement Tips:

Before body measurements few posts of the body should be pointed out for accurate
measurement. They are such as chest, waist, hips, inseam, thigh, upper arm, sleeve
length, etc. Always use a fabric measuring tape, should not use a metal one, measuring
tape is much more accurate then metal one. They’re given few measurements tips as
follows-

Standard Body
Measurement of Male and Female
 • The measurement of the neck, we should measure accurately from the centre of the
buttonhole to the end of the button.
• Then the measurement of chest, we have to measure below from the arm hole measure
around the fullest part of chest.
• After that the measurement of waist, we should measure that from 1″ below to the navel.
• At last the measurement of sleeve length, we have to measure that from shoulder end to
the end of the sleeve.

Regular Body Measurement for Gents and Ladies:

We know that as previous discussion standard body measurements is classify as
regular size and tall size. For body structure variation, regular body size is applied on
Asian reason and tall body size is applied on Europe people.

Regular Body Size Measurement for Gents

Points S M (Medium) L XL Tolerance

(Small) (Large) (X-large)

Neck(+1/2) 14″ 14” 15″ 15” 16″ 16” 17″ 17” ±1

Chest(+1/2) 34″ 36″ 38″ 40″ 42″ 44″ 46″ 48″ ±4

Waist 28″ 30″ 32″ 34″ 36″ 40″ 38″ 42″ ±4

(+1/2)

Sleeve(+1/2) 32” 33″ 33” 34″ 34” 35″ 35” 36″ ±1

Regular Body Size Measurement for Ladies
Points S (Small) M L (Large) XL(X-large) Tolerance

(Medium)

Chest(+1/2) 32″ 33″ 34″ 35″ 36″ 37″ 38″ 39″ ±2

Waist(+1/2) 24″ 24″ 25″ 25″ 26″ 26″ 27″ 22″ ±1

Hip (+1/2) 35″ 35″ 36″ 36″ 37″ 37” 38″ 38″ ±1

Sleeve(+1/2) 27″ 27″ 28″ 28″ 29″ 29″ 30″ 30″ ±1

Basic Components of a shirt:
 Fig: Basic Components of a Shirt

Individual parts of a basic shirt ( Types):

Collar:

Fig: Parts of collar

Pocket styles:

Fig: Pocket styles

Cuff styles and types:

 Fig: Cuff styles
Yoke styles:

Fig: Yoke styles

Bottom styles:

Fig: Bottom styles

Basic Components of a Basic Pant:

Fig: Basic Components of a basic pant.