The Bead Forum Issue 77 Autumn 2020
The Bead Forum Issue 77 Autumn 2020
Figure 1. Color varieties of the split beads found near Ankeveen (author’s collection; all images by author unless other-
wise stated).
I
n 1975, thousands of split glass beads were sible to reconstruct any of the approximately 144
found by the late historian Jan Veenman in a fragments in Figure 2 into a more or less complete
meadow near Ankeveen, a small village situ- bead. What is the explanation for this unique bead
ated in the province of North Holland, the Neth- find? Following the observations of the Dutch
erlands. All are furnace wound, cylindrical, with bead researcher van der Sleen, there was a possibil-
five longitudinal marvered facets and large perfo- ity that waste beads were transported there in the
rations. Individual beads are about 25 mm long, 17th-18th centuries with the sludge dredged from
16 mm in diameter, with a perforation of about 3 the canals of Amsterdam (Daams 1991; van der
mm. The beads are mostly shades of dark cobalt Sleen 1973:110). This sludge was used to fertilize
blue, with some a translucent, dichroic light blue, the sandy bottom of the area called Het Gooi (The
and a few opalescent white (Figure 1). A portion Gooi or Gooiland). Ankeveen is in Het Gooi. But
of the bead find was donated to the Goois Mu- this theory cannot explain why, if they were waste
seum in Hilversum. Some of the beads are also in beads, were all of them neatly split in half, clearly
the permanent exhibition, “Archaeology from your on purpose.
back garden.Wijdemeren,” in the Rijksmuseum A more plausible explanation is that the beads
voor Oudheden Leiden, the Netherlands. Another formed decorations in the garden of a baroque
portion of the find (Figure 2) was acquired by the country estate. In the 17th-18th centuries, Het
author and subsequently traced back to Veenman Gooi was a beloved area of the Amsterdam up-
(van der Storm 2017:3). This type of bead (Fig- per class, which built country houses to escape
ure 3) was likely made in either eastern Bavaria, the smelly atmosphere of the canals in the city,
Germany, or southern Bohemia, Czech Republic, especially in the summertime (Daams 1991). The
starting in the late 17th century (Karklins 2019; meadow where the beads were found was such a
Karklins et al. 2016). place; a country house was once situated there.
The most remarkable feature was that all When construction of the building started is not
the beads were split in half lengthwise. Not one known, but in 1714, at the age of 23, Maria Elisa-
unbroken bead was found, and it was not pos- beth de Walé (or Weal) inherited Het Huis te
The Bead Forum
Figure 2. The split beads from the Ankeveen meadow (author’s collection).
Anckeveen (The House of Ankeveen) (Figure 4). The In a garden mosaic, grout would not be neces-
next year she moved there to reign over her palatial sary since the beads can be simply embedded in silver
estate (Cruysheer 2013:16, 2015:52). sand (a fine, white sand used in gardening and mor-
tar), a technique seen in other places. Such gardens
De Walé invited talented painters, sculptors,
with mosaics of pebbles and beads are known to have
landscapers, and other craftsmen to the estate to
embellish the house and garden. The garden, several
hectares in size, was redesigned in the style of that
period and transformed into a pleasure garden with
statues, ponds with fountains, sundials, an orangerie,
and so on. Mosaics of colored pebbles and exotic shells
were fashionable at the time the house and garden
were renovated, so it is plausible that Maria Elisabeth
de Walé installed a bead mosaic in her garden. In sup-
port of this idea, fragments of the mosaic floor of the
fountain at the de Walé estate were found in the form
of pebbles and beads stuck in grout. The same blue
split beads that were found loose in the meadow were
found stuck upright in fragments of grout (Cruysheer
2013:20). Figure 3. Intact examples of five-sided beads, ca. 17th-
19th centuries (author’s collection).
--
Autumn 2020
existed at other sites in the North of Holland. Some of Daams, J.
these gardens consisted only of beads! So it is plausible 1991 De ‘s-Gravelandse kralen [The s’Graveland
there was such a bead-and-sand mosaic on the estate of Beads]. Tussen Vecht en Eem 9(3):163-167.
Maria Elisabeth de Walé. Karklins, Karlis
De Walé died in 1753, unmarried and without 2019 Furnace-Wound Beadmaking in the Bavarian/
children. In 1755, her heir requested permission to Bohemian Forests and Environs, 15th-19th
demolish the house and it was removed in 1756. The Centuries. The Bead Forum 74:1-3.
property was subsequently sold as farmland. It is there- Karklins, Karlis, Sibylle Jargstorf, Gerhard Zeh, and
fore likely that the split beads were originally part of a Laure Dussubieux
bead mosaic. When the property reverted to farmland 2016 The Fichtelgebirge Bead and Button Industry.
the beads were plowed under, only to be discovered in Beads: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers
a meadow some 200 years later. 28:16-37.
van der Sleen, W.G.N.
REFERENCES CITED
1973 A Handbook on Beads. George Shumway, York,
Cruysheer, Anton T.E. PA.
2013 De tuin van het Huis te Ankeveen [The Garden van der Storm, J.H.
of the House in Ankeveen]. Naerdincklant Spe- 2017 Het Huis te Ankeveen [The House in Ankeveen].
cial, Digital Edition 2013-01:15-21. Privately published, Amsterdam.
2015 Maria Elisabeth de Walé – Een katholieke lusthof
in Ankeveen (1691-1753) [Maria Elisabeth de Hans van der Storm
Walé – A Catholic Pleasure Garden in Ankeveen Independent Researcher
(1691-1753)]. In Van Andriessen tot Van Zutphen, Amsterdam
pp. 52-53. Nabij Producties, Nijkerk. hastorm@icloud.com
Figure 4. Het Huis te Ankeveen (The House in Ankeveen), by Jan de Beijer, 1749 (courtesy of the Rijksmuseum,
Amsterdam). --
The Bead Forum
A Faturan Phenolic Resin Bead Sample Card
Rosanna Falabella and Floor Kaspers
During visits in 2017 and 2018 to the archives to name man-made products after the inventor, or the
of the Museum of Glass and Jewelry in Jablonec nad place of manufacture, e.g., Bakelite (Leo Baekeland),
Nisou, Czech Republic, we examined a bead sample Parkesine (Alexander Parkes), and Trolon (Troisdorf,
card entitled “Faturan” (Figure 1). The card especially Germany).
attracted our attention because it may be the only We do not know the exact date of Faturan’s de-
extant phenolic resin bead sample card that positively but, but three years after Bakelite was commercialized,
identifies the specific material used. Similar identifica- a brief mention of the material appears in a French
tions only appear in catalog images of Bakelite beads, journal (Les Temps Nouveaux 1913): AIDONS-NOUS:
e.g., Davidov and Dawes (1988:17). Un camarade demande des renseignements sur un produit
imitant l’ambre et quis’appelerait le Faturan (HELP
US: A comrade asks for information about a product
imitating amber, called Faturan). The 1914 edition of
Didot-Bottin’s Almanac of Commerce, the original “yel-
low pages” of businesses since 1796, has a listing under
Matières Plastiques (Plastic Materials) for a company
that provides “tournage et décolletage, bakélite, faturan
et galalith” (lathe-work and turning from bar stock
of Bakelite, Faturan and Galalith) (Bouillet Frères
1914:2453). The mention of Faturan as an amber
imitation suitable for fabrication of objects on a lathe
indicates that the product is a cast resin, not an indus-
trial molding compound meant for shaping in a press.
The latter material is typically opaque and very dark
reddish brown or black, due to added fillers and high
cure temperatures.
Just before the end of WWI, Taffin (1918:475)
describes Faturan, along with two other German PF
products, Wenjacite and Aswelite, as flame retardant
substitutes for rubber. De Wildemain (1919:258)
wonders if Faturan “could replace” hardened rubber in
telephone and telegraph devices. These early citations
support the premise that German chemists created
competitive products soon after they were aware of
Figure 1. Faturan bead sample card of the W. Klaar the patents and successful first commercialization of
Company (photo: F. Kaspers). Bakelite in Erkner, Germany, in 1910. These materials
Faturan is the trade name for a synthetic plas- existed before the expiration of the 15-year German
tic made from phenol and formaldehyde (PF) and is Bakelite patents (awarded in Germany with a retro-
chemically similar to its better-known competitor, Ba- active date of 1908). We do not know if they were
kelite. Faturan was manufactured in Hamburg by Dr. subject to patent litigation by the U.S.-based Bakelite
Heinrich Traun & Söhne, the inventors, and later by Company, but during the war years (1914-1918) pat-
Herold AG (Ellis 1935:1394). Holdsworth and Faraj ent challenges from Germany’s opposition were prob-
(2015) postulate that the name Faturan is an anagram ably ignored.
of F(riedrich) A(dolf ) Traun, the son of the founder of Clément and Rivière (1924:358) report on
the company. This is an entirely reasonable assumption Hertzog’s results (published in 1921) for the phenol
based on the fashion of the late 1800s and early 1900s content of four PF resins made in either Germany or
-- Austria – Invelith, Resan, Dekorit, and Faturan. Leo
Autumn 2020
Baekeland himself refers to Faturan as a commercial
“phenol resinoid” product (Baekeland and Bender
1925). A 1935 trade names index of industrial syn-
thetic resins lists Faturan as a PF product available
in sheets, rods, and tubes (Ellis 1935:1394). Faturan
is explicitly described as a product or condensate of
phenol and formaldehyde in the five references cited
above. Despite this evidence, there is some dispute
about the material’s composition, as discussed below.
In the mid-1920s, advertisements in a German
trade magazine for the jewelry industry, Die Perle (The
Bead), offer Faturan specifically for beads (e.g., Figure
2). Another, by Traun & Söhne, states (translation
from German):
Faturan: Synthetic resin product in all colors,
Figure 3. Detail of a faceted bead (photo: R. Falabella).
transparent, opaque or cloudy available, in
blocks, bars or wide tubes. The material in all graphics and handwritten numbers. These additional
colors is electrostatic [reibungselectrisch, i.e., cards show Celluloid or Galalith beads, and are either
“frictionally electric”] just like real amber and dated between 1927 and 1930, or designated “interwar
keeps this property permanently. Graduated col- period” in the museum catalog, or have no date.
ors, particularly suitable for chains [i.e., strings The museum accession entry (BT 3188, dated
of beads] and other jewelry (Die Perle 1926:26). 1996) misidentifies the material as Galalith. In ad-
dition to the clear “Faturan” inscription on the card,
the larger beads show a feature characteristic of old
PF – long sparse cracks formed during slow shrinkage
over time (Figures 3 and 4). We are therefore confident
that the beads are indeed made of Faturan PF resin.
The entry also indicates that the beads are barva-krevel
REFERENCES CITED
Baekeland, L. H. and H. L. Bender
1925 Phenol Resins and Resinoids. Industrial and
Engineering Chemistry 17(3):225-237.
Bouillet Frères
1914 Annuiare du Commerce Didot-Bottin. Paris.
Clément and Rivière
1924 Matières Plastiques Soies Artificielles. In Encyclo-
pédie de chimie industrielle, p. 358. J.-B. Baillière
et Fils, Paris.
Davidov, Corinne and Ginny R. Dawes
1988 The Bakelite Jewelry Book. Abbeville Press, New
York.
De Wildemain, D. E.
1919 A propos du commerce du caoutchouc et de
l’exploitation des caoutchoutiers. Bulletin du
Syndicat des Planteurs de Caoutchouc NS 21:247-
262.
Ellis, Carleton
1935 The Chemistry of Synthetic Resins, Vol. II. Rein-
hold, New York.
Evangelinos, Aris
1998 The Komboloi and its History. Komboloi Museum
Figure 5. Worry beads labeled “Faturan” for sale in
Lesvos, Greece, in 2015 (photo: F. Kaspers).
Publications, Nafplio, Greece.
Without definitive provenience, it is impossible Falabella, Rosanna
2016 Imitation Amber Beads of Phenolic Resin from
to know which, if any, of the dozens of commercial
the African Trade. Beads: Journal of the Society of
PF products of the first half of the 20th century were
Bead Researchers 28:3-15.
used to make any individual bead (Falabella 2016:6-7).
Plastic identification is difficult without formal chemi- Gromitsari, Rallou
cal analysis, and many plastic beads, starting with 2014 Amber… The Tears of Apollo. Komboloi Museum
the semi-synthetic ones made of Celluloid in the late Publications, Nafplio, Greece.
1800s, are often mislabeled. For these reasons, the W. Groves, James C.
Klaar Faturan bead sample card represents a significant 2020 16th Century Amber Varnish & Venetian Amber
piece of early plastic bead history. Varnish. http://jamescgroves.com/germanamber-
varnish.htm, accessed 9 August 2020.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Holdsworth, Ian and Ibrahim Faraj
The authors are very grateful to the Museum 2015 Faturan. Plastics Historical Society, London.
of Glass and Jewelry for making their archives avail- http://plastiquarian.com/.
--
The Bead Forum
Komboloi Museum trique, June 1918). Annales des Postes, Télégraphes
2020 Faturan Kombolois. https://www.komboloi. et Téléphones 7(3):472-481.
gr/indexe.php?cat=27, accessed 23 July 2020. Les Temps Nouveaux
Natural Baltic Amber 1913 Aidons-Nous. 19(24):7.
2020 Amber Varnish. https://www.natural-baltic-am- Wikipedia
ber.com/amber-varnish/, accessed 13 August 2020 Faturan. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faturan,
2020. accessed 13 July 2020.
Novy, Petr
Rosanna Falabella
2008 Jablonecká Bižuterie [The Jewelry of Jablonec].
Independent Researcher
Grada, Prague.
United States
Die Perle imustbead@gmail.com
1924 Jungbauer advertisement. 1(5):38.
1926 Traun & Söhne advertisement. 3(2):26. Floor Kaspers
Taffin, M. Independent Researcher
1918 Review of Les nouveaux matériaux dans l’industrie The Netherlands
électrique (originally published in l’Industrie Élec- info@beadmuseum.com
REFERENCES CITED
Baumgart, Johann
1587 Der köstliche Agtstein oder Bornstein. Kirchner,
Magdeburg.
Erzbischöfliches Diözesanmuseum
1975 500 Jahre Rosenkranz: Köln 1475-1975. Cologne.
Frei, Urs-Beat and Fredy Bühler (eds.)
2003 Der Rosenkranz: Andacht, Geschichte, Kunst.
Benteli, Bern.
Galandra-Cooper, Irene and Mary Laven
2016 The Material Culture of Piety in the Italian
Renaissance: Re-touching the Rosary. In The
Routledge Handbook of Material Culture in Early
Modern Europe, edited by Catherine Richardson,
Tara Hamling, and David Gaimster, pp. 338-
353. Routledge, London.
Gesneri, Conradi
1565 De rerum fossilium, lapidum et gemmarum.
Zurich.
Jäger, Moritz
2011 Mit Bildern beten: Rosenkränze, Wundenringe,
Stundengebetsanhänger (1413-1600). Andachts
schmuck im Kontext spätmittelalterlicher und
frühneuzeitlicher Frömmigkeit. Ph.D. disserta-
tion. Justus-Liebig-Universität Gießen.
Keller, Peter and Johannes Neuhardt (eds.)
2008 Edelsteine, Himmelsschnüre: Rosenkränze und Ge-
betsketten. Dommuseum zu Salzburg, Salzburg.
King, Rachel
2013 The Beads with Which We Pray Are Made from
Figure 3. Faceted and smooth 16th-century beads It: Devotional Ambers in Early Modern Italy. In
(Gesneri 1565:105) (courtesy of Biodiversity Heritage
Library, Washington, DC).
Religion and the Senses in Early Modern Europe,
edited by Wietse de Boer and Christine Göttler,
through the employment of a pendant, for example, pp. 153-176. Brill, Leiden.
inlaid with a sacred scene or inset with a relic. Identi- 2019 The Reformation of the Rosary Bead. In Religious
cally shaped pendants were also inlaid with portraits of Materiality in the Early Modern World, edited by
worldly rulers, however, and the generic pendants were Suzanna Ivanič, Mary Laven, and Andrew Mor-
easily adapted to serve a variety of consumers. Some of rall, pp. 193-210. Amsterdam University Press.
these customers were in the Ottoman East where con-
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Autumn 2020
Rohde, Alfred Rachel King
1937 Bernstein, ein Deutscher Werkstoff. Deutscher Curator, Dept. of Britain, Europe and Prehistory
Verein für Kunstwissenschaft, Berlin. The British Museum
Walsham, Alexandra London, United Kingdom
2014 Catholic Reformation in Protestant Britain. RKing@britishmuseum.org
Ashgate, Farnham. (beginning 1 Nov. 2020)
Society News
A Note from the Editor she has examined glass beads from the Angkorian and
The Editor is pleased to announce that Alison Post-Angkorian periods in Cambodia and collaborated
Kyra Carter has been appointed Associate Editor. She on projects looking at ethnographic glass beads from
will help to solicit journal articles and review and edit upland communities in South and Southeast Asia. She
them. Should the Editor become incapacitated, she has undertaken fieldwork in Cambodia and Thailand
will assume the position. In addition, Rosanna Falabel- and is currently co-director of the “Pteah Project”
la has agreed to take over as Newsletter Editor, replac- which is investigating Angkorian residential spaces in
ing Chris DeCorse who has held the job since 2014. Battambang, Cambodia. Copies of many of her pub-
My thanks to him for his efforts. lications can be found at: https://uoregon.academia.
edu/AlisonCarter.
https://beadresearch.org/cbr-publications/
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The Bead Forum
Recent Publications
Bar-Yosef Mayer, D.E., I. Groman-Yaroslavski, O. onstrates that key cultural innovations on the eastern
Bar-Yosef, I. HershkovitzI, A. Kampen-Hasday, B. African coast are evident by 67 ka and exhibit remark-
Vandermeersch, Y. Zaidner, and M. Weinstein-Evron able diversity through the LSA and Iron Age.
2020 On Holes and Strings: Earliest Displays of
Falci, Catarina Guzzo, Alice C. S. Knaf, Annelou
Human Adornment in the Middle Palaeoli-
van Gijn, Gareth R. Davies, and Corinne L. Hof-
thic. PLoS ONE 15(7):e0234924; https://doi.
man
org/10.1371/journal.pone.0234924.
2020 Lapidary Production in the Eastern Caribbean:
Based on unaltered Glycymeris shells found in Misliya
A Typo-Technological and Microwear Study of
Cave, Israel (dated to 240-160 ka BP), and naturally
Ornaments from the Site of Pearls, Grenada.
perforated Glycymeris shells exhibiting string wear
Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences 12;
at Qafzeh Cave, Israel (dated to ca. 120 ka BP), the https://www.academia.edu/42033535/.
authors conclude that between those times there was Presents a study of a private collection of semiprecious
a shift from collecting complete valves to perforated lithic ornaments which combines raw material iden-
ones, reflecting both the desire and the technological tification, typo-technological analysis, and microwear
ability to suspend shell beads on string to be displayed analysis.
on the human body.
Costa, Mafalda, Pedro Barrulas, Luís Dias, Maria
da Conceição Lopes, João Barreira, Bernard Clist,
Karlis Karklins, Maria da Piedade de Jesus, Sónia
da Silva Domingos, Luc Moens, Peter Vandena-
beele, and José Mirão
2020 Determining the Provenance of the European
Glass Beads of Lumbu (Mbanza Kongo, Ango-
la). Microchemical Journal 154, 104531; https://
www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0026
265X19323902?dgcid=coauthor#!
Trace element analysis, and rare earth element pattern
analysis in particular, established that most of the Eu-
ropean trade beads were produced in Venice, and the
glass beads from types 26 and 28 have been assigned to
the Bohemian glass industry.
d’Errico, Francesco, Africa Pitarch Martí, Ceri Ship-
ton, Emma Le Vraux, Emmanuel Ndiema, Steven
Goldstein, Michael D. Petraglia, and Nicole Boivin
2020 Trajectories of Cultural Innovation from the
Middle to Later Stone Age in Eastern Africa:
Personal Ornaments, Bone Artifacts, and Ocher
from Panga ya Saidi, Kenya. Journal of Hu- Falci, Catarina Guzzo, Dominique Ngan-Tillard,
man Evolution 141; https://doi.org/10.1016/ Corinne L. Hofman, and Annelou Van Gijn
j.jhevol.2019.102737. 2020 The Biographies of Bodily Ornaments from
This study includes a technological and morphomet- Indigenous Settlements of the Dominican
ric analysis of personal ornaments including ostrich Republic (AD 800-1600). Latin American An-
eggshell beads and those made from seashells. It dem- tiquity 31(1):180-201; https://www.academia.
edu/41995312/.
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Autumn 2020
Reports on the production sequence and use life of Heo, Jina
beads and pendants recovered from five sites. Materials 2020 Symbolic Bead Exchange and Polity Interaction
include stone, shell, bone, teeth, coral, and ceramic. in Mahan Civilization (c. 100 CE-300 CE),
South Korea. Archaeological Research in Asia 23;
García Sanjuán, Leonardo, Carlos Rodríguez Rel-
https://www.academia.edu/43302016/.
lán, José Antonio Lozano Rodríguez, Marta Cintas
Mahan elites used beads as means to display social sta-
Peña, and María Martínez Merino
tus, to communicate with trading partners (or peers),
2020 Ladies in Red (and White): A Study of the Bead-
ed Attires from Montelirio (Andalucía, Spain). and to share ideology. The symbolic beading styles dis-
PAST. The Newsletter of the Prehistoric Society play a distinct spatial distribution pattern along with
94:5-7; https://www.academia.edu/42330290/. other elite goods, such as mound tombs and ceremo-
The Montelirio tholos, dated to the 28th century cal nial pottery, which reflect the formation of interaction
BC, contained the largest known assemblage of beads spheres.
ever discovered in Copper Age Iberia, or indeed west- Kashina, Ekaterina
ern Europe, with very few (if any) parallels worldwide. 2019 Carved Bird Pendants of Forest Hunter-Gath-
They are believed to have formed various garments erer-Fishers (East European Plain, 3500-2700
of beaded clothing, including at least two full-body BC): The Edible Totems. PowerPoint presen-
tunics. tation at the International Open Workshop
Socio-Environmental Dynamics over the Last
Grafe, Steven L.
15000 Years: The Creation of Landscapes VI,
2020 Plateau Belt Pouches. American Indian, Past and
Kiel, March 11-16. https://www.academia.
Present:Whispering Wind Magazine 48(2):5-7.
edu/38699848/.
A look at a particular form of beaded bag worn at the
Visual survey of the different forms of pendants found
waist by men and women on the Columbia River Pla-
at Volosovo culture sites in the Moscow region of Cen-
teau from the late 1800s to the present. Both materials
tral Russia.
and motifs are discussed.
Green, Richard
2020 Gifts of Sun and Stars: Souvenirs of the North
American Northeast. Spellicans Press, Oxford.
This book of essays focuses on the rich and varied
styles of 19th-century souvenir beadwork created by
the Native peoples of the North American Northeast.
Who We Are
The Society of Bead Researchers is a non-profit corporation, founded in 1981 to foster research on beads
and beadwork of all materials and periods and to expedite the dissemination of the resultant knowledge. Member-
ship is open to all persons involved in the study of beads, as well as those interested in keeping abreast of current
trends in bead research. The Society publishes a biannual newsletter, The Bead Forum, and an annual peer-re-
viewed journal, BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers. The Society’s website address is www.beadre-
search.org.
Contents of the newsletter include current research news, listings of recent publications, conference and
symposia announcements, and brief articles on various aspects of bead research. Both historic and prehistoric
subject materials are welcome.
The deadline for submissions for the next Bead Forum is 1 April 2021. Electronic submissions should be in
Word for Windows 6.0 or later with no embedded sub-programs such as “End Notes.” References cited should be
in Historical Archaeology format (http://www.sha.org/documents/SHAStyleGuide-Dec2011.pdf ).
Send submissions to the newsletter editor:
Rosanna Falabella
BeadForumNewsletter@gmail.com
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