Here, Wellness

Follows You...
MINDFUL, REJUVENATING EXPERIENCES IN MADHYA PRADESH
Here, Wellness
Follows You...
MINDFUL, REJUVENATING EXPERIENCES IN MADHYA PRADESH
 Sushri Usha Thakur
Minister, Culture, Tourism,
Religious Trusts & Endowments

In this book, we’ve shared a holistic

view of wellness in tourism, one that is
not limited to massages and meditation.
Shri Sheo Shekhar Shukla (IAS)
FOREST BATHING

FOREST BATHING
We believe that reconnecting with the
soil, working with our hands, listening to Principal Secretary,
soulful music, practising meditative art Department of Tourism &
2
forms, eating organic, farm-fresh food, MD, MP Tourism Board 3
seeking out open spaces, sleeping under
starlit skies, hiking, cycling, participating
FOREWORD

FOREWORD
in rural adventures, dipping your toes in

W
hot springs, exploring the ancient healing hether it’s the everyday stress
practices, apart from yoga, meditation and of urban living or the invisible
indulging in spa treatments can heal us impacts of pandemics and
deeply from within. climate change, travellers today need more
From growing and savouring delicious, than just another holiday to heal and
slow food at farmstays to reenergizing rejuvenate their body and soul. They need

W
ith a diversity of destinations, cultures, Ayurveda sessions in Kanha, from a great escape, a wonderful window to other words, it coaxes the jaded, world-weary traveller
indigenous communities and natural discovering the small joys of slow travel reconnect with nature and with themselves, to to seek out travel in its purest, unadulterated form in
assets that few others can rival, Madhya in and around Mandu, Jhabua and Fort experience the small joys of life that they may Madhya Pradesh. A state that bridges the gap between
Pradesh continues to be an open secret for Indian and Amla to forest bathing in some of the have long forgotten. Through this book, we ancient practices and modern experiences seamlessly. A
international travellers, who seek immersive, meaningful most glorious, most biodiverse corners hope we can help the post-pandemic traveller state where you discover something that makes you feel
experiences. Yet, few know about the enormous of the state, there’s a variety of healing, start this important journey of rediscovery, good, feel alive, at every turn.
potential of the state as a wellness destination. A place rejuvenating options in this book for both and rebooting. We hope you enjoy reading about these wonderful
that offers several opportunities to rejuvenate the body, the physical as well as mental well-being of a Going beyond the traditional definition experiences as much as we enjoyed sharing them with
mind and soul of the post-pandemic traveller. responsible traveller! of ‘wellness’, this book explores so many other you, and embark on your own journey of healing in
ways of finding inner peace and happiness. In Madhya Pradesh very soon!
 Evening descends
on Mandu

Traveller
GETAWAYS
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RIVER FESTIVALS OF INDIA

INTRODUCTION
The Heartland of India 08

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

n A Wild Refuge 12
n Slow Living at Fort Amla 16
n The Enchanted Forest 22

FOREST BATHING
n Call of the Wild  28
n Walk in the Wild 34

GLAMPING AND SOFT ADVENTURES

6 n Mandu on Wheels 42 7
n Tent on the Tree 48
n Under the Mandu Sky 54

RIVER FESTIVALS OF INDIA

n Zen and the Art of Zipping 58

HEALING FOODS
n Eat, Brew, Love 64
Contents

n Eating the Gond Way! 70

MUSIC AND ART EXPERIENCES

n Sacred Sounds at Ujjain’s Ram Ghat 78
n Sunset Show in Narmadapuram 84

RURAL TOURISM
n Farm Fresh Dining at Mandu 90
n Forest Essentials 96
n Practising Halma in Jhabua 100
n Sacred Jungles of Jhabua 106

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE AND HOT SPRINGS

n The Healing Herbs112

YOGA AND SPAS

n Be Well… and Wild! 118 A rocky waterfall
n The Quiet Perches124 close to Satdhara
 A view of the royal cenotaphs of
Orchha over the Betwa river

The Heartland of India Symbolically speaking, the heart

also carries with it notions of health and
wellness. And, true to its name, Madhya
Pradesh has evolved into a hub of wellness
picturesque Mandu, a wellness stay in
a property on the edge of the Kanha
National Park, learning about the
intricacies of Maheshwar’s rich textiles,
tourism as well in the 21st century. The taking in the tranquillity of Pachmarhi and

I
t is not just because of its location that it a cycling tour in ancient, picturesque healing experiences to be had in the the Satpura Tiger Reserve during a walk
Madhya Pradesh is often referred to as Mandu, a wellness stay in a property on the state are a blend of the spiritual and the or satiating your taste buds by sampling
the beating heart of India. Its heritage, edge of the Kanha National Park, taking scientific, as well as the ancient and the Gond cuisine, Madhya Pradesh exemplifies
culture, legends and myths are intrinsic in the tranquillity of Pachmarhi and the modern. Year after year, visitors travel that it has something to offer for people of
and central to India’s identity, as are its Satpura Tiger Reserve during a walk or to Mandla, Mandsaur, Omkareshwar, diverse inclinations.
numerous arts and crafts. Little surprise satiating your taste buds by sampling Gond Amarkantak, Chitrakoot, Sanchi, Ujjain This guide aims to be a ready reckoner
then that the state is ripe with unbound cuisine, Madhya Pradesh offers a variety of and Narmadapuram, to experience divinity for travellers who are setting out to
potential for immersive travel that will attractions for people of diverse inclinations. and spirituality, unlike anywhere else. explore the state with a focus on physical
leave tourists marvelling at the numerous More importantly, these experiences can all Through a variety of immersive and mental well-being. The adventures
treasures, big or small, hidden here. Be be enjoyed at one’s own pace. experiences like a cycling tour in ancient, encapsulated here promise to do just that.
 Agri-Tourism
and Farmstays
AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

A fresh-from-the-farm dining experience. A relaxed, rustic stay in
a fort. And a visit to an organic farm. We’ve handpicked a few
charming experiences, rooted in the soil of Madhya Pradesh

10 11
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
Banana plantains at
Vanya wait to shoot up
 The expansive verandah at Salban looks
out onto the 11-acre compound dotted
with fruit trees, allowing guests to watch
birds from the comfort of their chairs

A Wild Refuge
AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

Savour the joys of slow living
and slow foods in the shadows of
Kanha National Park

S
ome places have a rhythm of their own... Quiet,
elemental, idyllic places, where the breeze and
12 13
the birdsong, the angle of the sunlight and
the rainbow colours on the plate, are each part of an
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
incredible orchestra that changes its tune every season.
Places, where jaded travellers can truly unwind...
As you leave the paved road and turn towards the
Baiga village of Bandha Tola, the gate of Salban, The
Kanha Homestay, comes into view. By the time you
reach the courtyard, Sheema and Jhampan Mookherjee,
a former publisher and conservationist couple who
opened the doors to their home a few years ago, are
ready to welcome you into their tranquil world. The
openness and the spaciousness of the homestay, and its
earthy façade, instantly draw you in.
As Salban shares its border with the core area of
the Kanha Tiger Reserve, it offers the best of both
worlds... You’re never too far from the wild intensity of
a dense Central Indian forest or a hot cup of tea and
the sweet hug of a homely environment. Adding to the
charm is a sprawling Mahua tree right in front of the
 and the song of cicadas, or a spell of heavy goodnight message — tongue firmly in
rain and rolling mists. Either way, you’re cheek — could remind you to expect the
never too far from a surprise at Salban. unexpected in the wild... “Do call us if you
Even when you turn in for the night, a see a tiger at night!”

THE INFORMATION
AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

How to get there: Salban is close to the Mukki Gate at Kanha, so Rekha Homestay by MPTB
the closest airports are Raipur or Nagpur, and the closest railway One of the three villages in India nominated for the UNWTO’s
station is Gondia junction. The hosts arrange for taxis for pick up Best Tourism Village Award, Ladpura Khas (where Rekha
and drop. Homestay is located), offers a chance to experience the
Best time to visit: Certified under the homestay scheme of quintessential country life and enjoy farm-to-fork meals.
Madhya Pradesh Tourism, the best time to visit is October to
How to get there: Gwalior airport and Orchha railway station are
March.
Address: Village Baherakhar, PO Nikkum (Malajkhand), District closest to the homestay.
Balagha Address: H.No. 265 Khasra (near Upper Middle School),
Cost: `7,000-10,000, inclusive of all meals Maharajpura Gram Panchayat, Orchha.
Contact: +91-6268843290, 6267384787 Contact: +91-6392071364
14 Email: salbankanha@gmail.com 15
Jeevantika Farm, Ujjain
The countryside in Madhya Pradesh has a gentler rhythm, and An ecologically diverse farm of one-and-a-half acres, which is
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
offers many beautiful agri-tourism and farmstay experiences. Here focused on improving soil health and using indigenous seeds to
are a few more to consider: grow 100% chemical-free food, Jeevantika Farm allows visitors to
A majestic, native Mahua tree beautifully frames the rustic, red-tile-roofed bungalow at Salban experience the joy of reconnecting with the land, and encourages
Sattva Farmstay by MPTB them to embark on their own journey of sustainability and well-
A warm cottage on a two-acre organic farm, Sattva Farmstay is being.
located just outside Bhopal. It offers a unique open-air theatre
main cottage. The cottage, built in the meal, it’s one of the most memorable farm- How to get there:
experience too.
local style with slanted, tiled roofs and a to-table experiences in the region. How to get there: Sattva is en route to Kerwa Dam from Bhopal, From Ratlam (50 kms) – by local train, bus or taxi
which has the closest airport and railway station. Address: Sattva From Ujjain (50 kms) – by a bus or taxi.
roomy verandah, looks like a traditional The main cottage at Salban has two From Indore (90 kms) – by local train, bus or taxi.
Farmstay, H. No. 59, Kerwa Dam Road, Khudagaj, Central Semen
Baiga house from a distance; the only rooms for guests, while there are two more Centre, Bhopal. Address: Jeevantika, Amla, Road, Barnagar, Madhya Pradesh.
Contact: + 91-9479660944; Facebook page: https://www. Contact: Email: arpit2mv@gmail.com |
difference is in scale. rooms adjacent to each other in a separate Facebook Page: https://m.facebook.com/jeevantika.forest
facebook.com/sattvafarmstay
When the weather is favourable, cottage on the other side of the Mahua
Rawla Kaneriya Shambhala
Salban also serves freshly made tree. They are connected by a small pool It’s an organic farm with four rooms on the outskirts of Bhopal.
Hosted by the Jamnia Royal Family, Rawla Kaneriya offers
homecooked meals under its majestic and a pond. activities, such as farm tours, picnics, and lunches under tree
canopies, as well as opportunities for hikes, nature walks, How to get there: Bhopal is connected by train and air. It’s a
Mahua tree – a simple, yet incredibly Nature is both the chief host and short drive to Shambhala from there.
workshops and more.
relaxing experience. With rare, hyperlocal, chief guest at Salban. So, your early How to get there: The closest airport or railway station to Rawla Address: Bhouri Jod, Near Campion School, Bhopal-Indore
Kaneriya is Indore, approximately 40km away. Address: Bagdi- Highway, Bhouri Village, Bairagarh, Bhopal.
nutrient-rich ingredients sourced from dinner with delicious Kodo millet fried Contact: +91-7554073333
Manpur Road, Dhar. Contact: +91-9425740106
their own farm or local farmers, and gifted ‘rice’, roast chicken and a refreshing salad Website: https://agriculturetourism.wixsite.com/rawlakaneriya Email: info@shambhalastay.com
homecooks who can elevate the humblest prepared with fresh produce from the
ingredients like Kodo millet into a gourmet farm, may be accompanied by clear skies
 Slow Living
AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

at Fort Amla
Exercise your green thumb at
Barnagar farms

W
16 17
alking into one of Barnagar’s many fields
is like walking into a beautiful postcard
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
image of agrarian living. Blessed with
Malwa’s fertile black soil and Narmada’s sacred
waters (along with Tapti river), the fields here are
bountiful. Driving past harvests of soya, wheat,
maize and corn, we make our way to one such farm,
with our guide Ishwar from Fort Amla. It is around
noon and we are greeted by a shepherd and his flock,
making their way towards a watering hole nearby. A
short distance away, a herd of cattle lay bathing under
the warmth of the gentle winter sun.
As we walk further, we come across a woman
picking fresh harvest of chickpea leaves. The ‘saag’
made of these leaves is a winter speciality, we’re told,
and welcomed to lend a hand. If you’re a city slicker
wanting to exercise your green thumb, then this is an The exquisite Fort Amla sits
ideal day out. We make our way from one end of the overlooking the Barnagar farms
field to the other, sampling the ripe fruits that Ishwar
 AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

18 19
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
Above & Facing page: A couple at work in the fields of Barnagar; The courtyard at Fort Amla

has been plucking for us – lemons, oranges ping for lunch. Even from a distance, we can
and guavas. Grown with natural methods, smell the aroma of freshly-ground spices waft-
using no chemicals, these are safe to bite into ing towards us. On the menu is chane ki sabzi
right after plucking. cooked in a clay pot. In keeping with the hos-
Speaking of all things natural, cow dung pitality of Barnagar’s residents, we’re invited
is a big part of rural culture. At one corner of to join the meal. We had to politely decline of
the field is a woman collecting fresh dung and course, but it is common for one to be invited
slapping them onto a wall to make dung cakes. by the folks over a meal or a cup of tea, after a
Cow dung is used in place of firewood, as short conversation.
manure and even for coating the floors owing The unhurried yet disciplined way of life
to their insulating and antibacterial properties. on the farm is a welcome change from the chaos
On the other side of the field, a couple is prep- of city lives. And one is welcome to indulge
 Why agri-tourism? expose this richness to the outside world, while
Although situated in close proximity to some giving the locals an opportunity to make an
of Madhya Pradesh’s busier hubs such as additional living,” Shivika tells us.
Ujjain, Ratlam and Indore, Barnagar is a quiet Of course, a day or two will only help
town. After having toured through the popular sample the most appetising bits of farm life,
spots, this is where people come to just breathe but it gives you an opportunity to understand
AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

and be, says Shivika. It is what prompted an alternate way of living. And empathise with
them to encourage the idea of ‘agri-tourism’. the process that brings food to our tables. It is
“Agriculture has been the tradition and identity a refreshing new way of experiencing a blend of
of the village folk for centuries. The idea is to the regal and rustic.

THE INFORMATION

How to get there: The best way to get to Barnagar is by road where you can experience what life is like for communities
20 from either Ujjain (45 kms) or Indore (80 kms). traditionally dependent on the forests of Central India. Spend a 21
A shepherd with his flock close to the farms; A guide plucks ripe guavas for us to try along the walk Best time to visit: Between October and June. day amidst birdsong, watch children at play, and see the sun go
Address: Heritage Village Amla, Tehsil Barnagar, Ujjain, down at dusk, even as you discover more about wild and foraged
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
Madhya Pradesh foods, and herbal medicine. If you ask your hotel, they may even
in this lifestyle – even if for a few days – by entrance of the building. On display here are
Cost: `8,000 for a double-occupancy room be able to arrange a meal cooked by a local family with fresh
participating in most farm activities. antique pieces – storage chests and mirrors that Contact: +91-9977833323 produce from their own fields.
date back a couple of centuries at least. Walk Website: www.fortamla.com How to get there: Nagpur is the nearest airport and railway
station to Pench. Khamba village shares a boundary with the
Regal and rustic further and you’ll find yourself in an open The number of agritourism destinations has been growing steadily Pench National Park..
At Fort Amla in Barnagar, however, one courtyard that hosts the guest bedrooms and a in Madhya Pradesh. Here are a few more places that you might like:
gets to complement the village experience lone temple tree in the centre. Rekha Homestay by MPTB
Bundeli Countryside, near Orchha One of the three villages selected for United Nations World
with a heritage one. Originally set up as We’re greeted by Shivika, the ‘Bhavrani’ A lovely, warm community, Friends of Orchha, offers a Tourism Organization’s Rural Tourism Program, Ladpura Khas
an Army outpost to stand guard against of the family, in what she describes as the wonderful window to rural Bundeli life. Set up by a local (where Rekha Homestay is located) offers a glimpse into the
NGO to break barriers of caste and gender, the homestays give quintessential country life complete with farm-to-fork meals
Mughal invaders, it is now a homestay run by ‘zenana ghar’ (ladies’ hall). The men of the
travellers a chance to truly live like a local, even as they discover and more. Situated on the banks of the Betwa and Gurari
Raghavendra Singh, and welcomes guests from house traditionally host guests in the ‘mardana the royal charms of this ancient city on the Betwa river. rivers, this riparian community celebrates several festivals
all over the world. ghar’ or the men’s hall. Shivika, a gracious Address: Lakshmi Mandir Road, Ganj Mohalla, Orchha through the year, including their own version of Lathmar holi!
Cost: `1,000 for a double-occupancy room How to get there: Gwalior airport and Orchaa railway
The spiked, arched doorway of Fort Amla host, shares many such nuggets and keeps us
Contact: +91-9981749660 station are closest if you’re making your way to Rekha
is deceptive. Standing tall and unassuming enthralled throughout a sumptuous lunch and a Website: www.orchha.org Homestay.
at the end of a rustic lane, it gives you little tour of the fort. If you’re fascinated by heritage Address: H.No. 265 KHASRA (near Upper Middle School),
Daytrip to Khamba village Maharajpura Gram Panchayat, Orchaa, Madhya Pradesh
indication of the glorious 320-year-old fort architecture, then the alleyways and open Khamba, on the edge of Pench National Park, is a Gond village, Contact: +91-6392071364
behind it. It opens up to a walkway with grass terraces are enticing. Not to mention the views
beds on either side, leading you to the inner of open fields for as far as the eyes can see.
 The Enchanted Forest
AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

Vanya Organics, near Indore, is synonymous with
sustainability and wellness

H
aving visited a few organic farms over the land. The ‘layered’ nature of the forest, for
the years, we were prepared for rows of instance, ensures that the sun’s rays first bathe the
neatly planted saplings, pruned trees, moringa trees, trickle down to shine on the citrus,
22 23
and mounds of compost in various stages of ma- descend further to caress the vetiver (khas grass)
turity at Vanya Organics. But it displayed none of and ultimately nourish the turmeric or sweet
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
it. Instead, true to its name, it resembled a forest. potato that grow underground. Similarly, the
A food forest where trees, vines, roots and shoots guduchi, a popular herb in Ayurvedic practices,
grow at will. And in abundance. Mango, papaya, intertwines itself around neem trees, ensuring that
babool, pink pepper, kaffir lime, dates, ginger, aloe the two engage in a symbiotic relationship.
vera – the whole platter. We entered the gates of
Vanya, near Indore, at around 12 noon. Yet the Of trees and bees
overhead sun, instead of scorching us, filtered The land here is never turned or tilled and
through tall canopies of moringa and tendu, giving there is no use of chemical fertiliser, pesticide
us just the cover for a leisurely walk in the forest. or herbicide. ‘Cide’, as Jha points out, means to
kill. Vanya contrarily is designed as a space that
Sun, soil and symbiosis allows life to ‘thrive’. So the forest grows plants
A 40-acre oasis on the banks of Narmada, Vanya’s and trees that flower and fruit throughout differ- The layered forest at Vanya
bounty is as carefully designed as it is organic. ent times of the year to ensure a steady supply has moringa canopies at the top
Thanks to ‘natural farming’ deployed by former of nourishment for the bees. “The productivity and vetiver (khas grass) on the
floor to ensure that the sun’s
IRS Officer Patanjali Jha. Unlike industrial farm- of a farm visited by bees grows by 30 per cent,” rays are effectively harnessed
ing that razes forests and depletes soil’s nutrients, Jha explained. Vanya doesn’t compost either. The
natural farming harnesses natural resources on natural mulch from the trees’ shedding and ani-
 sustainable. We must mimic it and learn farming with its quadruple layers is capable
from it, not replace it with unsustainable of producing 200 times more than a regular
practices. If we can create these little pieces farm, thereby reducing the need to create
of natural paradise everywhere in the world, more ‘agriculture land’.
it can be a strong force to fight the climate From growing clean food to reversing
crisis,” he said. climate change and harvesting large quantities
In fact, ever since Jha took over the land of food in sustainable ways, there is much to
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AGRI-TOURISM AND FARMSTAYS

around 12 years ago, the temperature here learn at Vanya – as an urban farmer, a foodie,
hasn’t shot beyond 36 degrees – a whopping a biologist or just someone curious about how
10 degrees lower than when his parents lived the world can be a more compassionate and
here more than a decade ago. Besides, natural healthier place.

THE INFORMATION

24 How to get there: Indore is the nearest airport, 105km away, (20km), and the nearest airport is Bhopal (90km). 25
and the nearest railway station is also at Indore, 95km away. Address: Tasalli Raipur Road, Malakhedi, Narmadapuram
There are also regular bus services from Indore to Dhar/Khalghat. Contact: 9425040851
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
Best time to visit: The farm welcomes guests throughout the
year for a tour, but it is ideal to visit after October. Reconnecting with our Roots, near Bhopal
Accommodation: Vanya has two rooms, offered at no charge for both Just about 50km from the capital city, Maati Se is a farmstay
food and stay. Alternatively, the MPT hotel at Khalghat is 5km away. that celebrates local produce.
Address: Vanya Organic Natural Farm, State Highway 31, Khal How to get there: The closest airport is Bhopal, and the railway
Bujurg, Madhya Pradesh. stations at Bhopal and Sehore are both easily accessible.
Clockwise from top left: Giloy vines intertwine a neem tree, adding to the charm of a ‘layered’ forest; A fruit-laden papaya tree stands
Contact: +91-1234567890; Email: email@vanyaorganic.com Address: Maati Se Farm, Kotakarar Village, Anwali Kheda
tall; Fist-sized attari lemons hang low on the tree; The land at Vanya Organics is never tilled or turned
Panchayat, Sehore District.
Madhya Pradesh offers many opportunities to learn about, Accommodation: Maati Se Farm
cherish and even grow your own food. Here are a few more Website: maatise.in
mal waste makes for excellent nutrition for is medicinal. A refreshing brew made entirely places you could visit:
the trees, he added. An economist by quali- with ingredients foraged from this forest that Seasonal Wonders in Panchmarhi
Aaramgah, The Homestay Part of the AM Hotel Kollection, The Summer House,
fication, Jha’s passion for natural farming we had had earlier is an example of the same. From farm fresh custard apples and cherries on the table to Panchmarhi, perched at 1,100 msl, enjoys sweeping views of the
is inspired by the Japanese no-till farming So is the lunch that we were lovingly served pottery workshops and silk handicraft-making, at Aaramgah Satpuras. Their in-house restaurant, The Five, features a curated
there’s a lot to see and experience at leisure. Barely a few seasonal menu that changes throughout the year.
visionary Masanobu Fukuoka and Gujarati – also prepared entirely from the forest’s
kilometres away from the banks of the rivers Tawa and Narmada, How to get there: The closest airport is Bhopal, and Pipariya is
natural farming pioneer Bhaskar. harvests. Apart from being an oasis for all life and planted on a two-acre farm, the homestay attracts birds, the closest railway station.
forms that depend on it, Jha believes that the bees, butterflies, and discerning travellers who love slow holidays. Address: The Summer House, Civil Lines, Pachmarhi, Madhya

Healing people and the planet forests can also reverse climate change.
The hosts live on the property.
How to get there: The nearest railway station is Itarsi Junction
Pradesh.
Website: www.amhotelkollection.com/THESUMMERHOUSE
A passionate farmer, Jha believes that any “The Earth’s cycle of plant and
food when grown in a pristine environment animal life is naturally regenerative and
 Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing
26 27
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

Forest Bathing
The term forest bathing (or shinrin-yoku) may have Japanese
roots, but by no means is the experience strictly limited to
Japan alone. Madhya Pradesh has several excellent forest trails
which are well-suited for forest bathing – the ones in Satpura
National Park being a case in point

A glimpse of the Pachmarhi hills

 Call of
Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing
28
the Wild 29
Sprinting past trees, hills, streams
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

and sand, Forsyth Trail Run in
Satpura is ‘wildly’ refreshing

N
o one word, or two or three, can describe the landscape at
the Satpura National Park. Although blessed abundantly
with towering canopies, magical floors, flowing streams
and all the features that make for an enticing forest, it is impossible
to pin down its scenery to a single type. The fact that it magically
transforms into a new landscape every few miles is what makes the
Forsyth Trail Run in Satpura a uniquely soul-stirring experience.
That, and the fact that it is the only activity of its kind to be hosted
in a tiger reserve! A 36-km-long trail, it starts on a motorable
road in Singanama village and ends uphill, at the Bison Lodge in
Participants dip their toes in a brook
Pachmarhi. Along the way, it makes you scale slopes in a rainforest,
for respite from the heat
tread past sandy beach-like shores, sprint across fields, and dip your
toes in cool brooks from time to time. Participants also get a glimpse
 Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing
Clockwise from left page: The streams along the trail; A tiger pug-mark; Forest guide Ghanshyam Kahar has been leading the trail for
more than 40 years; A small stream flows by
30 31
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

 of the traditional Gond and Baiga lifestyles
as they go past the villages of Khokhra and
Thadipathar on the banks of the Gopad
and Mahan rivers. The nature worshippers
have a regular haat or market and run
eco-friendly homestays that have been
supported by Biome and MP Tourism.

Run in peace
The Forsyth Trail Run starts off as a group
activity high on adrenaline, but along the
way and over the next eight hours, evolves
into a reflective journey as one continues
Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing
at one’s own pace – fascinated by the
transforming trail. If you’re lucky, you
may even catch a glimpse of a deer or a
sambar sprinting alongside. Away from the
32 33
chaos outside its fences, the forest offers a
meditative track to run with your thoughts.
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

Interrupted occasionally by the rustle of
leaves, the prattling of brooks and the Facing page & above: Participants pose for a group
occasional call of a bird or beast. photo at the end of the Forsyth Trail Run; A diverse
trail, Forsyth reveals a new facet of the forest every
few miles
Choose your trail
The first to flag off what is going to be
an annual event, this is an intense trail The Information
recommended for only seasoned runners.
Going forward, however, the organisers, How to get there: Itarsi railway station is 70 kms
from Satpura, Pachmarhi. The closest airport is
Moustache Escapes and Madhya Pradesh
Bhopal, 146 kms away.
Tourism, will offer three different trails –10, Best time to visit: The Trail Run is held in the
20 and 36-km long. This includes parts of winter months.
Cost: `4,000 for two nights, including stay and
the core forest cover as well as buffer zones.
breakfast
Physically and mentally challenging yet Contact: +91-8929100705
infinitely rewarding, the Forsyth Trail Run Website: https://moustachescapes.com (the exact
dates for the run can be tracked here)
is a rare opportunity to witness the glory of
the wild on foot.
 Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing
34 35
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

Walk in
the Wild
Satpura – the only National Park to offer
a walking tour in the core forest cover The afternoon sun cuts through
the dense canopy in the core
area of Satpura Tiger Reserve
 T
he run-up to the walk at Satpura is makes a loud swoosh with its tail as if
perhaps as thrilling as the walk itself. announcing its retreat into the water. On the
We take our seats on a little boat that right, is a herd of the sambar blissfully grazing
will take us across a stretch of the Denwa river the greens along the water.
and into the forest. Barely a minute into the I was initially sceptical of the time that
ride, we spot a crocodile resting peacefully we picked for the walk - 3 p.m., when the sun
on a little island in the middle of a lake. As is scorching right overhead. But the scepticism
we inch closer, looking through a pair of was laid to rest in less than a minute of
binoculars lent by one of the forest guides, it entering the jungle. So dense is the canopy of
the trees, that it filters the sun’s rays, allowing
Langurs merrily swinging on tree tops (below); A gaur basking in the sun, seen only about a half of it to trickle through the
from a boat while approaching the core area of the Tiger Reserve (bottom) leaves. In fact, the light, cutting through the
canopy like swords of bright yellow, make for a
Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing
sight to behold.

Floored by the forest

We’re instructed to walk in a single file and
36 37
make as little noise as possible. A minimum
of four people had to go together, and since it
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

was only two of us, we were accompanied by A crocodile perched on a small island
two forest guides – Kanhaiya and Rameshwar
- who knew the jungle like the back of their such as Sal, Teak, Tendu, Mahua, Cork Tree you, then there is ample sound therapy that
hand. Curious, we asked them if they’d ever and Bamboo. “Have you ever seen a crocodile the forest offers.
had a close shave with a wild cat. After all, we on a tree?” Kanhaiya asks. Of course we Speaking of the forest floor, we notice
are in the ‘core area’ of the forest. Interestingly, hadn’t. He then points to a tree, the bark of pug marks of a wild cat that may have passed
Satpura is the only National Park in the which resembles the scaly back of a crocodile. by not so long ago, fresh droppings of a bear
country that allows visitors to walk in the core So uncanny is the resemblance, that the tree and many symmetrical webs of the funnel
area as opposed to other parks that allow it is called the ‘crocodile tree’ – and one can spot spider. And if you look up from the stories of
in the buffer zones. Kanhaiya tells us that the hordes of these around. the floor, the trees have their tales too. Some
ecosystem at Satpura is so biodiverse and self- trees bear claw marks, left behind by bears
sufficient that the carnivores are almost never Sounds so soothing sharpening their claws. Or in some cases, by
a threat to humans. There is a walking trail or ‘pugdundee’ etched tigers marking their territory as a show of
The core forest cover at Satpura National out on the forest floor thanks to the walks, but strength in keeping with the jungle laws.
Park is 1,500 sq kms whereas the buffer area is we choose to walk slightly outside of it, to get As we walk further, the silence is
spread across 700 sq kms. Walking in a single an amplified rustle of the dried leaves being pleasantly interrupted by the sounds of birds.
file as instructed, we make our way past trees crushed underfoot. If it is a sound that calms After a fair bit of hide and seek with the
 Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing
Guides Rameshwar Gujar and Kanhaiyalal Wadia identify bird species

38 39
binoculars, we are finally able to catch The Information
a glimpse of the Oriole and Kingfisher
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

adding a dash of colour to the green and Tourism is now an integral part of the identity of
yellow tapestry of the jungle. the Satpuras. So much so that it is recognised as the
key ‘product’ under the ‘One District One Product’
While we didn’t catch a proper
scheme in the district of Narmadapuram, which is
glimpse of any animal on the walk we home to the Satpuras.
heard the sound of an Indian gaur that How to get there: Itarsi is a popular railway station
70 kms away from Satpura. Closest airports would
fled seconds before we could lay our be Bhopal and Jabalpur.
eyes on it and a few langurs that merrily Best time to visit: Between October and March.
swung on tree tops. The park is closed for visitors during the monsoons
– from July to September.
Spotting or no spotting, there is Cost: The Satpura Walking Safari lasts around
something so reinvigorating about being two hours and costs between `1,500 and `2,000
depending on the number of people.
in the presence of nature’s virgin beauty.
Contact: +91-9205515652 (Gypsy Adventures)
And while little compares to the rush of Suggested accommodation: MP Tourism’s
spotting an animal in its natural habitat, Satpura Retreat is a quaint property where tourists
can enjoy a peaceful stay; Address: Mahadev Rd,
it is these finer sights and sounds that
Pachmarhi, Madhya Pradesh
make walking in a jungle, a compelling, Contact: +91-7578252097
immersive and almost meditative Website: https://mpstdc.com

experience.
 Glamping and Soft Adventures Swiftly moving on the zipline

Glamping and Soft Adventures

40 41
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

Glamping and
Soft Adventures
Looking to challenge yourself? From zip lining over Lake Kerwa to
glamping in Mandu, explore some of the most refreshing and safe
soft adventure experiences on your next trip to Madhya Pradesh
 Cycling past a green field

Mandu
en route to Jami Masjid

on Wheels
There is no better way to romance
Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

Mandu than on a bicycle

I
t was an epic love story… A timeless romance celebrated
through the ages, between Sultan Baz Bahadur and Rani
Roopmati. One that Mandu continues to honour even today
through its architecture and folklore. Come monsoon, the Jahaz
42 43
Mahal still looks like a majestic ship sailing through deep waters
– as imagined by Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din-Khilji. Even the grand
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

baobab trees take us back to the days when they made it to
Mandu as gifts borne by African traders. Frozen in time, Mandu
is uncorrupted by the pace of life outside its walls. The best way
therefore to explore this historical gem is at its own pace. Unhur-
ried, on a bicycle.
After a night under the stars at a glamp, we set out early
the next morning for a bicycle tour with our guide Parvez
Qureshi. He tells us that Mandu’s unique position – perched
on the Vindhyas overlooking the Malwa plateau – made it an
ideal citadel. The first imprint of its legacy greets you right at
the gates or ‘darwazas’ that are now faint remainders of what
may have been imposing doorways back in the day. Once inside
the gates, you will see rows of baobab trees with bulbous trunks
lining the roads. These are now integral to Mandu’s identity,
and are popularly known as Khurasani imli. Also lining the roads
are humble clay cottages – homes of the Bhil community. A ride
through the town therefore straddles two worlds – one of a regal
 44
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structure of a ship
from its resemblance to the
Jahaz Mahal takes its name

45

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 Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

Majestic arches on the insides of Baz Bahadur Palace

as one would expect, reverberates through Rural Charms near Mandu

46 47
the halls. Right outside the palace, pilgrims To experience another side of Mandu, and
Above & right: Walls of the Baz Bahadur gather at the Rewa Kund, a spot visited by its rural charms, visitors can also explore the
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

Palace stand tall, defying the test of time; Arched Rani Roopmati twice a day to offer prayers villages of Bhilakheda, Sulibardi, Songadh
doorways at the Baz Bahadur Palace
to the Holy Narmada. Gate, Malipura and Undakho. MP Tour-
ism is supporting local communities to host
past and the other a more modest present. Royal vestiges travellers in these idyllic villages.
A few minutes away on bicycle, we make
Love notes our way to the Jahaz Mahal, a beautiful
Speaking of the regal heritage, the palace standing tall amidst a dry pond. But The Information
Baz Bahadur Palace is a must-see for it is in its full glory in the monsoon, when
its ingenious architecture, but also for the ponds fill up and the palace looks like How to get there: Indore railway station and airport, at 98 kms and 124
the tribute that it pays to the romance a ship in the waters. Likewise, Hoshang kms respectively, are closest to Mandu.
Best time to visit: Monsoon months from July to September are the best
of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati. Shah’s Tomb, Jami Masjid, Hathi Mahal, time. The Mandu Festival is held usually in December-January and is also
Brought together by their love for music, Rani Roopmati’s Pavilion, Hindola Mahal a good time to visit Mandu.
the two are said to have enjoyed many and many more vestiges of the past connect Contact: +91-8819077812 (for cycling tours)
Website: https://www.mandufestival.com lists dates, accommodation
melodic evenings in one of the halls, Mandu’s history to its present. Cruising lei- options and other activities to look forward to during the Mandu Festival.
the acoustic strength of which shines surely on a bicycle, away from the rush and Suggested accommodation:
Contact: 07292-263235, +91-9977113354
through even today. Parvez sings us an noise of the city, is the best way of letting
old Bollywood couplet and his voice, Mandu grow on you.
 Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

48 49
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Tent on
the Tree
Camping allows one to enjoy the many
shades of the forest – from dusk to dawn The hammock tent firmly strapped to sal
and teak trees under the glorious morning
sun at Satpura National Park
 I
t’s way past sundown and we’re seated leaving well after sunrise the next morning. zone. So night time in the jungle, as you
next to a bonfire in the jungle. Next to The thought was so exciting, it made me can imagine, is pitch dark – with only the
us, a couple of guides are busy putting forget how sore my body was after a 16 kms bonfire, the moon or your own torch to
up a tree tent, our home for the night. All trek along the Forsyth Trail earlier that day. light up the way. It also means that the skies
through the past few days, the ‘golden hour’ Satpura is the only National Park twinkle with star light, which is otherwise
had been our cue to retreat into our rooms in the country that allows visitors to not blurred behind the flash of city lights.
or make our way out of a forest. And yet, only walk, but also camp in the core forest
here we were tonight making our way into area that spans across 1,500 sq kms. An Gather around, everyone
Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

one after sunset. And we had no plans of additional 700 sq kms make up the buffer The thing about bonfires is that it sets the
stage for storytelling. As does a starry night.
The guide lights up firewood before preparing a hot breakfast
And if you’re a local who grew up in the
forests like our guides Syed Anwar Ali and
Mahendra Kalam, you most certainly have
stories about encounters with a wild cat.
Syed, an animated story-teller, had a treasure
trove of these tales – for instance, how as
50 51
a child, he put up a brave front in front
of a tiger, only to go back home and faint
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

before he could brag about it. It had been a
long day, so we gorged on a very comforting
Indian meal heated on the firewood with a An early-morning birding trail
side of continued conversations.
Getting into bed was quite an activity too.
Magical nights Unlike most tents that are pitched into the
We were hoping to catch a glimpse of some ground, this one hung in the air, suspended
nocturnal forest activity, but there was no in between three strong trees. It’s how it
peep from any quarter. The feeling is oddly earns the name ‘hammock tent’. You climb
disappointing and relieving at the same time. up a ladder and enter from an opening at the
When it was time to hit bed, Mahendra told bottom of the tent. Given that there is little
us to not fret if we heard an eerie cry because head room inside, it isn’t meant for sitting
it would in all probability be the Mottled or resting, but strictly retiring for the night.
Wood Owl. With that advice apart from Despite the light material of the tent, it was
torches, blankets and a sleeping bag in tow, reasonably warm and toasty once we settled
we made our way to the tent. in. And if you’re someone who enjoys mild
But the adventures weren’t over yet! swaying like you experience in the sleeper
 The bonfire keeps us
warm as we share stories
under a starry sky
Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

Above left & right: The hammock tent rests firmly beside traces of bonfire from the night before;
The opening at the bottom of the hammock tent to let you in
52 53

coach of a train, then you’d appreciate how the Canary Flycatcher. Having worked up an
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

the tent lulls you into sleep. appetite with the walk and some delightful
spotting, we had the breakfast prepared on
The morning after the rekindled firewood from the previous
Quite predictably and pleasantly, we woke night and enjoyed it with what seemed like a
up to the calls of birds. It’s only once we whole other view of the forest.
stepped out of the tent that we could truly
appreciate the gorgeousness of the location
for our night haul. Bathed in the morning The Information
rays of the sun, the forest had woken up
even prettier. We followed the calls of the How to get there: Itarsi is a popular railway station situated 70 kms
birds with Mahendra, who has a natural gift from Satpura. Closest airports would be Bhopal and Jabalpur.
Best time to visit: Between October and March. The park is closed
to spot these winged beauties and identify for visitors from July to September.
them with the softest call. We spotted the Cost: A stay in a hammock tent for a night costs `14,000 for a couple.
Red Vested Fly Catcher swooping over a The experience also includes a guided evening walk, dinner, breakfast
and a birding tour in the morning.
lake and the Indian Pond Heron peacefully Contact: +91-9205515652 (Gypsy Adventures)
seated beside. Also making an appearance
were Parakeets, the Fan Tailed Flycatcher and
 A cluster of glamps in Mandu

Under the Mandu Sky

Surrounded by monuments of love and conquest, Mandu’s glamps create
the perfect ambience for contemplation and conversation
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Glamping and Soft Adventures

54 55
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 I
f you’re on a road trip through Madhya
A coffee cum-work
Pradesh, you won’t run out of spectacular desk at the glamp The Information
views of either a forest or vast agricultural
fields. The approach to Mandu therefore How to get there: The closest airport is in Indore,
124 km away. The closest railway station is Ratlam,
stood out, given that it resembled nothing 99 kms away.
of what we had seen thus far. First, the town Best time to visit: The glamps are put up during the Mandu
sits atop a hill in the Vindhyas, Malwa – a festival held typically in December-January. However, they
continue to be there until the end of February.
region known for its many conquests. Next, Cost: A couple-occupancy glamp costs `18,000 a night,
true to its character of a fortress town, Mandu inclusive of meals
Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

Website: https://www.mandufestival.com lists dates and
welcomes you with countless gates or ‘darwa-
other activities to look forward to during the Mandu festival.
zas’. Therefore, it is fitting that you retire to One may also refer to this site for booking a glamp during the
a glamourous camp or ‘glamp’ after exploring festival.
Besides Mandu, Madhya Pradesh offers many camping and
glamping experiences in its gorgeous wild environs:
Below & Bottom:The spacious dining area at the glamp; Gorgeous
drapes make for the roof of the glamp Shergarh Tented Camp
Located on a sprawling 20-acre property, Shergarh Camp
sits at the edge of the Kanha Tiger Reserve and is closest to
Mukki Gate.
56 How to get there: It is best to access it from Jabalpur airport 57
or railway station, situated approx. 160 kms away.
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

Cost: Double occupancy starts at `32,000.
Contact: +91-9098187346
Website: www.shergarh.com

imposing structures such as Baz Bahadur Pal- to sit out and savour the celestial treat, and find inner Taj Banjaar Tola
ace, Roopmati Pavilion and Jahaz Mahal. peace and calm in the silence of the night. This exquisite property is located just outside Kanha and on
the banks of the Banjaar river.
How to get there: It is best to access it from Jabalpur airport
Starry, starry night Mandu Festival or railway station, situated approximately 160 kms away.
Luxurious with carpeted floors and exquisite The glamps are put up for the Mandu Festival, the Cost: Double occupancy starts at `30,000.
Website: www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj/banjaar-tola-kanha-
drapes for roofs, Mandu’s glamps are reminis- state’s annual marquee cultural festival usually held national-park
cent of what may have been a royal layover in December-January. It is a five-day fiesta featuring
back in the day. Toasty even on a February live music, art exhibitions, adventure sport activities, Jamtara Wilderness Camp
Centred around an ancient banyan tree, Jamtara in Pench is
evening, the glamps come with a common poetry evenings, light-and-sound show – all against the perfect for some forest bathing or simply reliving Kipling’s
dining hall, which, with its silken drapes and exquisite backdrop of Mandu’s architectural gems. works that were inspired from the jungles here.
How to get there: Nagpur airport/railway station is closest
pristine whites, is fit for a royal repast. The The tent village stays put for a few days after the
to Jamtara, nearly 72 kms away.
interiors are charming enough to hold you festival. In case you visit it post the festivities, you can Cost: Double occupancy starts at `28,000.
hostage, but the view outside is just as magi- still explore the town with the help of the team at the Contact: +91-11-2685 3760, 2651 6770
Website: www.jamtarawilderness.com
cal. Stars shine bright in the Mandu sky. Each glamp. It offers a walking and a cycling tour; there’s
of the 18 tents has a porch that invites you also a special Instagram tour for the social-media savvy.
 The calm blue water of the lake
seen from above while ziplining

Zen and the

Art of Zipping
Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

Feel the magic of ‘here and now’
while ziplining over the calming
waters of Kerwa Lake

F
58 59
rom atop a hill, at the mounting base of
Kerwa zipline, the views are breathtaking.
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

A vast, calm lake, open fields and a lush
green cover of tree tops. Standing on one end,
the 510 metre long zipline looks like an endless
cable running over the lake, and into oblivion.
The sight may be a little daunting at first, but it
takes only a few seconds to shake off the nerves
and embrace an overwhelming sense of awe that
washes over instantly. Zipping at a rapid pace,
high above the tranquil lake and cutting through
the chill of a crisp winter morning, the experience
is as thrilling as it is meditative. The latter more
so, because it heightens all your senses. For those
45-50 seconds in the air, your mind is wholly
consumed by the magic of the ‘here and now’.
From the speed to the views and the fact that
you’re hanging by a cable - everything about the
experience gives you a rush.
 Glamping and Soft Adventures

Glamping and Soft Adventures

Facing page & above: Guide Umesh Jangde’s last-minute instructions before we take off;
The zipline base along Kerwa Dam

Besides, Kerwa, we’re told, is the First timer or not, you’re given a quick
60 61
longest twin zip line in South Asia at 510 crash course in zipping along a short trial
metres. Which basically means that there are line. Lasting less than 10 mins, it is enough
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

two zip lines running parallel to each other to tell you the basic techniques required for
– making it possible for two people to set off a smooth run.
at the same time, on separate lines. An ideal However, zipping or not, given
activity to try out with a friend or partner. its proximity to the city and its idyllic
character, Kerwa Dam makes for a perfect
place to get away on weekends – even if only
The Information for a walk or some quiet time. A peaceful
and scenic spot, it is difficult to imagine
How to get there: Kerwa is a 40-minute drive from Raja Bhoj Airport, that Kerwa Dam is situated on the outskirts
Bhopal, and a 30-minute one from Habibganj Railway Station, Bhopal.
Best time to visit: August to March
of the capital city of Madhya Pradesh. It is
Timings: 11a.m. to 5 p.m. a short drive from the city centre and a far
Cost: `500 per person cry from the hustle and bustle of Bhopal.If
Contact: +91-8719861986 (Skyfall Adventure)
Suggested accommodation: MP Tourism’s four-room resort in Kerwa you’re an adventure junkie, then ziplining
is ideally located to access the zip line; Address: MPT Kerwa Resort, over Kerwa Lake is a must-do activity for
near Kerwa Dam, Mendora, Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh
you. If not, walking along the dam to soak
Contact: +91-9424796635; Website: https://mpstdc.com
up the morning sun or watch the setting sun
is just as therapeutic.
 Spices sourced from in and
around Kanha
Healing Foods

Healing Foods
62 63
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

Healing Foods
The wisdom of Madhya Pradesh’s tribes and indigenous people
enriches the cuisine of the state. The Gond way of eating, as seen
in the Kanha Earth Lodge for instance, is an eco-conscious one
– one that reflects a deep respect for nature. Other plant-based
fare, such as garadu and mahua, also add a certain vibrance
and colour to the state’s cuisines
 Mahua, a local brew, is
now finding its place on
international bar menus

Eat, Brew, Love

Home-brewed mahua and masala-tossed
garadu are the state’s unique offerings
Healing Foods

Healing Foods
O
f the many varieties of plant-based foods that the
Indian mandi offers, the yam is my least favourite.
64 65
To me, it lacks the look, aroma or flavour of its
cousins. Which is why I was surprised to see the garadu (a
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

type of yam) at multiple roadside carts as an evening snack
or as a chaat item in parts of Madhya Pradesh. While it
can be found in other parts of central and northern India,
Madhya Pradesh – more specifically, Indore – loves garadu,
which is available only during the winter months.
We sampled it on our trip to the state in February.
Fried to a crisp and coated in the most lip-smacking jeeralu
masala, the steaming hot chunks of garadu were indeed
delicious and the perfect accompaniment to our chai.
Additionally, the root is extremely nutritious and also helps
build immunity, especially during the winter months when
one is most susceptible to cold. The special jeeralu masala
made of lemon, ginger powder, sendha namak (rock salt), jeera
(cumin) and hing (asafoetida) aids digestion.
The fact that garadu does not have an overpowering
taste of its own helps it absorb the flavours in the wok and
makes it the perfect hot snack on a winter evening
 Healing Foods

Healing Foods
66 67
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

Malwa’s Corn-ucopia
Another specialty that few outside the
region of Malwa know about is bhutte ka Brewed with love the trees will bear a dramatically different
kees, made with grated corn cooked in The mahua tree has a special place in look and fragrance. They will have at their
milk, ghee and aromatic spices. A gift of Madhya Pradesh’s heart. Whether you go feet a carpet of pale yellow flowers. It is a
the monsoons, it’s spiced with a special on a forest trail or for a walk in a field, busy time for the rural folks who collect
mix called jeeravan. the local guides will promptly point to the the flowers, dry them and save them for
Malwa has a lot more on its plate, mahua tree. They will speak of its medicinal distillation. Both man and animal vie for
of course. The dal bafla and the papad value, its fruits, its edible flowers, its it.. Langurs, deer and sloth bears gather
ki sabzi, for instance, remind us of seeds that were once used to make oil, but around to feast on the mahua flowers.
the fact that the cuisine of the Malwa mostly, they will speak fondly of its potent
region is a delicious blend of flavours Above & right: A cart owner scoops up
brew. Mahua or the Madhuca longifolia is Heritage liquor
chunks of garadu for eager buyers; Garadu is
and styles adopted and adapted from mostly available during winter the only flower fermented to make alcohol Given its place in India’s adivasi culture,
Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat and Facing page: Garadu chaat, tossed in a lip- and blooms in March and April. So if you mahua is somewhat of a heritage liquor,
Maharashtra. smacking masala, is a popular evening snack visit Madhya Pradesh during these months, a fact the authorities are taking note of.
 We tried it at a little cottage in Mandu reminded of sake, the popular Japanese liquor.
overlooking sloping fields on a cool winter Brewed and consumed only among the locals
evening - perhaps the best weather to try once upon a time, mahua is slowly making
the fiery brew. It is almost colourless with its way into cocktail glasses and high-end
a whitish tinge and bears a light floral bars. Some purists argue that drinking it in
fragrance. A swig goes down leaving behind cupped leaves in the forest honours its legacy.
a mild burn and a sweet after-taste. True as that may be, it is time this home brew
Although distinct in its taste, one is tantalises the international palate.

The Information
Healing Foods

Healing Foods
How to get there: How to get there: The airport closest to Website: https://moteltamia.com
Mandu is in Indore, 124 kms away. The closest railway station
is Ratlam at a distance of 99 kms. Walk with the Pardhis
Best time to visit: Any time of the year is a good time. Get to know the culture of the Pardhi community, MP’s
However, there is much more to explore during the Mandu traditional hunters. Evolving with the times, the Pardhis now
68 Festival organised in December or January. use their traditional knowledge of the wild to acquaint tourists 69
Cost: The farm-to-table experience costs anywhere between with their home, Panna.
`2,000-`3,000. One is welcome to partake in the preparation How to get there: The closest airport and railway
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

and indulge in daily activities with the family as part of the station to Panna is Khajuraho. The closest railway junction
experience. is Satna.
Contact: +91-7000802851 (Dhiraj Chaudhary), Address: Jungle Camp Madla, Panna, Madhya Pradesh
+91-882741595 (Marie Wintrebert Chaudhary) Accomodation: MPT Jungle Camp
Cost: `2,500 onwards (for accommodation)
A big part of Madhya Pradesh’s charm lies in its quaint Contact: +91-7880108592
countryside, uncorrupted by urban lure. You can experience Website: To explore a walk with the Pardhis, get in touch
this in more ways than one. with https://thelastwilderness.org.

Tamia - Patalkot Darshan Learn pottery in Pachdhar at Pench Jungle Camp

An initiative by Motel Tamia and Tribescape, this tour gives A small village of about 110 families, Pachdhar is home to
a close look at tribal life and its culinary culture. One of the the potters’ community. One can walk through the lanes of
best parts is that farm fresh food can be enjoyed at a hilltop, Pachdhar while taking in the sweet scent of clay and also get
gazing at the rising and setting sun. one’s hand muddy on the pottery wheel.
How to get there: The closest airport to Motel Tamia is How to get there: Nagpur has the nearest airport and railway
Nagpur. One can also take a train to Chhindwara, and drive station to Pench.
another 80kms to get to Patalkot Address: Pench Jungle Camp, Kurai, Seoni, Avarghani,
Address: Bijori, Nagpur - Pachmarhi Highway, Tamia, Madhya Pradesh
Chhindwara, Madhya Pradesh Cost: `6,000 onwards (for accommodation)
Cost: `12,000-`14,000 for 2 nights Contact: +91-9999742000
Contact: 07149-272300, +91-6266940601 Website: www.penchjunglecamp.com
 Healing Foods

Healing Foods
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

Eating the
Gond Way!
Made from freshly-foraged ingredients, the Gond
The outdoor clay kitchen counter
thali at Kanha Earth Lodge is food for the soul setup at Kanha Earth Lodge
 Healing Foods

Healing Foods
From facing page: While making Kikad Roti, the dough is pressed between two camel foot leaves and cooked ; Kikad Roti is

I
72 slow-cooked on traditional dung-cake charcoal; Colocasia leaves with smeared spiced chickpea flour being rolled into a Bhra- 73
t is early evening, and one can see unlike some chefs who fiercely guard makass Ki Badi; Spicy Paan Bada gravy being brought to a boil
smoke rising from a little mound of their recipes, patiently takes you through
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

charcoal in the courtyard. Of course, the process of preparing each dish.
it’s too early for the ‘angaar’, even on a The first thing, however, that draws not just a culinary delight. It offers a crack with your fingers. Served hot with a
really cold day, so we take a closer look your attention during the experience window into the lives of its people. As side of jaggery, you can also dip it in the
to find out that the mound is in fact is the exquisite earthen counter – with author Deborah Cater puts it, “You have curries on the plate. It makes for a very
dung cake charcoal. It is being prepared clay pots and traditional pans. It bears to taste a culture to understand it”. If interesting texture and spin on the more
to roast kicad roti, a star component of decorative etchings and one can see the Gond thali is anything to go by, its popular form of roti.
the Gond thali to be served later that the firewood burning through its front simple yet robust flavours speak for the
night. facade. It’s only 4 p.m., but preparations earthy and ingenious people of the Gond Eco-conscious thali
If you’re an amateur chef or even a are well underway. community. The rest of the fare is served on a copper
seasoned one who has always wanted a Given its special place in the Gond plate, lined with a traditional ‘thali’
peek into the workings of a professional Rolled and steamed thali, the kicad roti is what we’re looking stitched with palash leaves. The original
kitchen, then the Gond thali experience In a world drifting towards the forward to sampling. A unique Indian Indian disposable plate. Of course it is
at Kanha Earth Lodge is doubly exciting. convenience of two-minute noodles and bread, kicad is a ball of wheat dough with the only ‘disposable’ in the property,
Because this is an open kitchen and a one-pot recipes, the joy of devouring a salt and ghee/butter pressed in between because Kanha Earth Lodge is an eco-
curious onlooker is more than welcome. slow-cooked meal, prepared in traditional Camel Foot leaves and left to slow cook conscious venture that composts all of its
The Gond chef, Rohit Shendram, is pots with freshly-foraged ingredients, in the charcoal. Once done, the texture wet waste. The compost goes directly to
happy to indulge any questions and defines a fine-dine experience. And it’s resembles that of a cookie that you can their organic garden.
 But back to the food. Next up,
we bite into the Bhramakass ki badi
or chakri. Spiced chickpea flour is
spread out on Colocasia leaves, rolled
and steamed. It is a variation of the
Maharashtrian
Aluwadi, Gujrati Patra or Kannadiga
Patrode among others. But what sets
this apart is that it is deep fried until it
gets crunchy like a fritter!
Another popular Gond dish on the
menu is the Paan Bada – a preparation of The Gond thali at Kanha Earth Lodge - Kicad Roti with jaggery,
urad dal balls fried and let into a spiced Bhramakass Ki Badi, Paan Bada, Bhedra chutney, Papad, Baigan Ka
Healing Foods

Healing Foods
gravy. Hot and comforting, it can be had Bharta, Paneer Sabzi and rice

with rice or as a dip with the kicad roti.

On the side, is the fiery Bhedra Chutney
The Information
made of roasted tomatoes mixed with
74 75
freshly ground spices and crushed on How to get there: Kanha is a four-hour drive from Jabalpur Airport or
a traditional sil batta (grinding stone). Jabalpur Railway Station. It is five hours away from Raipur Airport.
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

Best time of the year: The place hosts guests all year round, but
What a sil batta does to squeeze out the
October onwards is particularly ideal.
juices of ingredients, a mixer can never Address: Kanha Earth Lodge, Kanha Tiger Reserve, P.O. Sarekha,
do. And therefore, although a charmingly Narna, Madhya Pradesh
Cost: Tariff for double occupancy starts at `16,000. If you’re not
simple recipe, the Bhedra Chutney packs
staying at the lodge, you will need to make a prior dinner/lunch
a punch. reservation for `3,500 per person.
The thali also had a local spin on Website: https://www.kanhaearthlodge.com

the baigan ka bharta, a paneer dish and Madhya Pradesh’s platter is a generous dose of organic foods sourced
a chicken gravy. All of this, served by a from the forest and farms. Enjoy more traditional fares in the following
very hospitable staff that urges you to places:

take extra helpings of everything. MPT Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh

Flavorsome and fresh, each dish The Baiga thali is truly reflective of its culture – rooted, warm and
healing. Enjoy an authentic Baiga Thali at Kings Lodge.
on the thali – especially on the cold
How to get there: Umariaa is the closest railway station. Jabalpur is the
winter night – was like a warm hug on a closest airport to Kings Lodge.
plate. That it is served in the beautiful Address: Kings Lodge, Rancha village, Umaria, Madhya Pradesh
Cost: `16,000 onwards
outdoors under a tree at Kanha Earth
Contact: +91-11-4013 6332; Website: https://www.kingslodge.in/
Lodge, only adds to the charming and
rustic Gond experience.
 Devotees raise their hands in
tribute to the Narmada
Music and Art Experiences

Music and Art Experiences

76 77

Music and Art

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Here, Wellness Follows You...

Experiences
Ghats on the banks of the Kshipra and the Narmada in places
such as Ujjain and Narmadapuram reverberate with the chants
of people and priests performing aarti in the evening. The
ambience and atmosphere is said to be spiritually cleansing, and
the rhythmic chants resonate and stay with you long after the
performances are over
 Ram Ghat stands on the
banks of Kshipra, one of the
holiest rivers in Hinduism

Sacred Sounds at
Ujjain’s Ram Ghat
Music and Art Experiences

Music and Art Experiences

The evening aarti brings peace amidst happy chaos

L
egend has it that Lord Ram performed The Kshipra, one of the holiest rivers in
‘pind daan’ for his parents at Ujjain’s Hinduism, calmly accepts and reflects
Ram Ghat. That is how the place this adoration. Soon, the devotees join
earned its name.It’s hard to imagine what the ritual, singing in unison and settling
it looks like during the Simhastha Mela into a common rhythm that makes you
78 79
with lakhs of devotees thronging the ghat, subconsciously participate in the ensemble
but on a February evening, bathed in the performance.
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

orange glow of the setting sun, Ram Ghat The high-energy ritual lasts an hour or
is a picture of serenity. The anticipation of so. We witness it from steps of the ghat as
the aarti is palpable, though. People begin well as from the waters, as we take a pedal
to take their place close to the aarti, making boat across the river – getting separate
offerings to the river and waiting for the perspectives of this immersive experience.
priests to take centrestage. Charmingly clamorous, the sounds of
As the sun begins to retreat making way Ram Ghat stay with you long after the bells
for darker skies, the character of the ghat stop ringing.
transitions from calm to energetic.
Temple town
Resounding and rhythmic Host to one of the 12 jyotirlingas, Ujjain is
The energy builds up and remains constant celebrated for its Mahakaleshwar temple.
through the ringing of the bells, clanging There are 84 Shiva temples here, some of
of the cymbals and beating of the damru. them at Ram Ghat. The bhasm (ash) aarti
Priests stand tall at the edge of the ghat, performed at the Mahakaleshwar temple at
their faces lit up by flames of the massive 4 a.m., is also popular among devotees from
aarti as they chant mantras in a chorus. across India.
 Music and Art Experiences

Music and Art Experiences

80 81

Above & right: The aarti

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Here, Wellness Follows You...

draws believers from across
the country; Devotees collect
blessings from the holy fire
after the aarti
Facing page: Tourists and
devotees start gathering at
the ghat for the sunset aarti
 Music and Art Experiences

Music and Art Experiences

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The Information

How to get there: The closest airport to Ujjain is Indore, 65 kms

away. If one wants to get here by train, the Ujjain Junction Railway
Station is well connected too, and just 3 kms from Ram Ghat.
Best time to visit: Ram Ghat aartis are performed all year. The best
time, however, is during the cooler months from October to March.
Timing: The aarti is always performed at sunset, so the timing varies
between 6 p.m. and 7 p.m. according to the season.
A boat ride on the
Address: Ram Ghat Marg, Kartik Chowk, Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh
Kshipra offers a clear
view of the aarti
 Visitors wait for the
aarti to begin

Sunset Show in
Narmadapuram
Music and Art Experiences

Music and Art Experiences

Narmada aarti is a symphony of sight and sound

84 85
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 U
nlike the more popular Ram Ghat in Ujjain
that overlooks the Kshipra river and hosts the
Kumbh Mela, Sethani Ghat in Narmadapuram
(earlier known as Hoshangabad) is subdued in character.
Lined with little shops and quaint old single-storey houses,
the labyrinth that leads to the ghat gives no hint of the
splendid view at the end of it. Painted in bright colours,
the steps at the ghat overlook a calm river as devotees take
dips and offer prayers at the little shrines on the banks. Facing page from left: Devotees offer pooja against the setting sun on the banks of
Music and Art Experiences

Music and Art Experiences

the Narmada; Devotees pass the aarti thali around after an hour-long ritual draws to
a close; Priests line up to perform the Narmada aarti
Quiet flows the river
Sethani can be seen in its full ornate glory on Narmada Jayanti
in early February when hundreds of people throng the banks, The Information
and offerings of haldi, kumkum and flowers adorn the river. But
a regular day has its own charm too. Every evening as the sun Madhya Pradesh has many other spiritual centres like Narmadapuram:
sets on the river, the ghat comes alive with enthused chants,
86 Omkareshwar 87
aarti and the sounds of bells, cymbals and dholaks. Priests Home to one of the 12 jyotirlingas of Shiva, Omkareshwar is located on Mandhata,
wielding majestic thalis with foot-long flames offer prayers an island on the Narmada River. Many believe this sacred town is shaped like the
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

holy syllable of Om. Millions of devotees flock to the temples here throughout the
in unison, making this an artistic performance apart from a
year, and witness the aarti on the Narmada. But a visit on Mahashivratri is considered
devotional one. The Narmada, flowing calmly beneath, reflects particularly auspicious.
the reverence as devotees and visitors play a part of their own – How to get there: It has its own railway station. But the closest airport is Indore
(88km).
either singing, chanting or clapping to a common rhythm.
Amarkantak
Come one, come all Amarkantak is where the Narmada rises from the womb of the earth. It’s also where the
Satpuras and the Vindhyas meet. Blessed naturally and spiritually as a destination, it’s
Reverence for the holy Narmada can be seen across a large more than just another pitstop for pilgrims. And the most important date in the calendar
part of Madhya Pradesh. Along the river’s route starting from year? Well, it’s Naramada Jayanti, celebrated around Makarsankranti, in January.
Amarkantak – where it originates – pilgrims can be seen walking How to get there: The closest railway station is at Pendra Road (20km) and the
closest airport is Jabalpur (220km).
(often barefoot) in what is called the Narmada Parikrama. It is
an arduous journey of circumambulating the river that lasts for Chitrakoot
Devotees who throng the temples of Chitrakoot believe it has a powerful spiritual and
months. It is in respect for the river that the Sethani Ghat was
umbilical connection to the epic, Ramayana. Ram, Sita and Laxman apparently spent
built with generous contributions from Jankibai Sethani in the their years in exile in the forests of Chitrakoot or ‘the hill of many wonders’, which is
19th century – to make the river accessible to all. why, Ramnavami is celebrated here with great fervour every year.
How to get there: The closest railway station is in Chitrakoot itself (75km) away and
For soothing sounds of the aarti and the display of
the closest airport is at Allahabad (106 km).
devotion, the Narmada aarti at Sethani Ghat is a must-do in
Narmadapuram.
 Rural Tourism
Far away from the din and noise of the urban centres, Madhya
Pradesh’s rural areas are a world unto their own. The offerings are
unique, refreshing and in tune with natural surroundings. From
a first-hand view of handicraft practices and farm-fresh dining
to taking part in a sustainable way of community living, these
experiences show the way forward to harmony, coexistence and peace
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Marie and Dhiraj share
anecdotes about an immersive
farm-to-table experience
 A lady lovingly roasts
makke ki roti over a brick-
and-firewood stove

Farm Fresh
Dining at
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RURAL TOURISM
Mandu
90 91
Enjoy an authentic tribal meal at a
HERE, WELLNESS FOLLOWS YOU...

HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
traditional clay home

By Sushmita Murthy

C
ryptoscopophilia - Urban dictionary
defines it as ‘the desire to secretly look
through windows of homes that one passes
by’. I’d like to believe it is a feeling that most
of us can relate to – a harmless curiosity stoked
especially on travels. For although the sun-kissed
fields and forests of Madhya Pradesh were a sight,
I wondered what the insides of the cosy mud
houses among them looked like. Thanks to the
lovely couple Dhiraj and Marie who hosted us for a
farm-to-table meal in Mandu, we were able to not
only visit one, but also enjoy an authentic meal
prepared in one of these very warm homes.
 A traditional Bhil fare laid
out in earthen pots, overlooking
sloping fields in Mandu
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 A home with a view still, reflecting the splendour of the tangerine summers. A typical house, like the one we
Rows and rows of mud and clay cottages line skies. A beautiful sit-out arrangement with visited, has a built-in room for the domestic/ THE INFORMATION
the roads in Mandu. Most of these homes charpais has been made for an alfresco meal. farm pets inside the house. “It is common
belong to the Bhil community. We were Just as we were soaking the views, Dhiraj tells for everyone in the house to sleep under How to get there: The airport closest to Mandu is in Indore, 124 km away.
The closest railway station is Ratlam, 99 km away.
invited to one such home of Santosh Gawar, us that it is common for leopards to use the one roof,” Dhiraj tells us. Both Dhiraj and Best time to visit: Anytime of the year is a good time. However, there is
a member of the indigenous Bhil community, pond as a watering hole. While the sight is Marie were formerly involved actively in the much more to experience during the Mandu Festival in December or January.
Cost: The farm-to-table experience costs anywhere between `2,000-`3,000.
who graciously agreed to host us for a meal. sure to cause more than a flutter elsewhere, tourism industry and have since wanted to You are welcome to participate in the food preparation and indulge in daily
Walking towards the house, we noticed the people of Mandu and certainly this family create an immersive and authentic experience activities with the family as part of the experience.
Contact: +91-7000802851 (Dhiraj Chaudhary), +91-882741595 (Marie
that the part that faces the road is a plain are nonchalant about it. The wild cat does not that veers far away from ‘commercial Wintrebert Chaudhary)
facade. There is a narrow lane that leads to usually come up to the road, unless it catches tourism’. They also wanted the process to
Madhya Pradesh’s charm lies in its quaint countryside. You can experience
the back and to a whole different vista that the sight of cattle or a goat. Humans are incentivise the local communities who are this in more ways than one.
stays hidden behind the humble front. Bathed almost never bothered, they tell us. inherently hospitable.
Tamia-Patalkot Darshan
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RURAL TOURISM
in the rays of the setting sun are vast stretches Planted somewhere between the banks of the River Betwa and the hills
of green sloping fields dotted with the yellow Farm fresh Let’s eat! and ridges of the Vindhyachal Range, Tiso’s Treehouse is perched atop
a beautiful mango tree . Painted in the colours of the earth, it stands
and orange of marigold beds. A pond lay Relieved with that little nugget, we take After a swig of locally-brewed Mahua, we’re tall amidst the sprawling, green farm that surrounds it; a farm where
a short walk down the slope. Channe that ready for the spread lovingly prepared by traditional, organic farming is practiced and the knowledge is shared. From
learning about local produce and medicinal herbs to fishing in the river
we’re having later that night is plucked from the family. A batch of Makke ki roti is being nearby, there’s plenty to do here.
94 How to get there: The nearest railway station is Rani Kamlapati (25km), 95
We pick the juiciest tomatoes for a side of fresh salad right here. We had helped Marie pluck ripe freshly roasted on a brick stove over firewood.
and the nearest airport is Bhopal (40km).
tomatoes to serve as a side of fresh salad Served in earthen pots, the table is laid out
HERE, WELLNESS FOLLOWS YOU...

HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
Address: Near the village of Imaliya in the district of Bhopal.
earlier that evening, but the ‘channa’ is only with channe ki sabji (gram leaves), sajna sabji Contact: 9910675598

plucked when the sun is right overhead, she (moringa leaves), yellow dal, fish curry and a Tiso’s Treehouse
tells us. Unlike grass which is plucked when chicken dish. And of course, a powerful side Planted somewhere between the banks of the River Betwa and the hills
and ridges of the Vindhyachal Range, Tiso’s Treehouse is perched atop
the sun is going down. A true Indophile from of lehsun-mirchi ka achaar that is freshly ground a beautiful mango tree. Painted in the colours of the earth, it stands
France, Marie knows the place and much of on a sil batta. After days of eating out, this is tall amidst the sprawling, green farm that surrounds it; a farm where
traditional, organic farming is practiced and the knowledge is shared. From
the practices like a local. just the home-cooked soul food that we were learning about local produce and medicinal herbs to fishing in the river
All the ingredients on the table are craving – simple, fresh, healthy and flavourful. nearby, there’s plenty to do here.
How to get there: The nearest railway station is Rani Kamlapati (25km),
locally-sourced and grown without the use of And to give it a sweet closure, a melt-in- and the nearest airport is Bhopal (40km).
chemicals. the-mouth gajar ka halwa. Sitting outside, Address: Near the village of Imaliya in the district of Bhopal.
Contact: 9910675598
wrapped up in our shawls on a chilly winter
Family that stays together night, the food is like a warm caress. Reconnecting with our Roots
Just about 50km from the capital city, Maati Se is a farmstay that celebrates
Back after a little jaunt, we can smell the The farm-to-table meal in Mandu is local produce.
aroma of the food wafting through the truly an immersive experience. Wholesome How to get there: The closest airport is Bhopal, and the railway stations at
Bhopal and Sehore are both easily accessible.
windows. So we went in to take a closer look. and authentic, it not only lets you savour Address: Maati Se Farm, Kotakarar Village, Anwali Kheda Panchayat,
A traditional Bhil home is made from mud the food, but also the way of life – if only Sehore District. Accommodation: Maati Se Farm
Website: maatise.in
and clay. The material ensures that the homes for a day. The impression, of course, will
stay warm in winters and cold during the last a lifetime.
 A traditional clay cottage
hosts the Pashoo Pakshee
workshop at Kanha
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Forest Essentials
PashooPakshee’s handcrafted souvenirs are an ode to
Kanha and the communities that call it home
 local communities, are busy stringing together
wall hangings. It is a skill they have picked up
from the trainers at PashooPakshee. Reflective
of their own individual ecosystem, these
products facilitate sustainable livelihoods for
forest communities.

Being natural
The products are crafted with natural
materials such as cloth, clay, wood and paper,
and bear an earthy imprint, true to the nature
of its creators. They make for thoughtful Kanha and its wealth of flora and fauna inspires Pashoo Pakshee creations
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RURAL TOURISM
and conscious gifts and souvenirs, while
also supporting local craftsmanship. Be it a world of Pashoo Pakshee makes for beautiful
fridge magnet or a figurine in the garden, the memories of a fine jungle trip.

THE INFORMATION
98 99

How to get there: The closest airport to this part of Kanha is minutes, group size 2 to 16) along with the artisans, who belong
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
Jabalpur (131km), about four hours away. The closest railway to the forest communities of Panna.
Above left & right: Artisans of Pashoo Pakshee weave magic into the souvenirs on display at Corbett Foundation, Kanha; The station is Gondia Junction, 125km away. How to get there: The closest airport is at Khajuraho (22km),
display room is a vibrant space with happy animal prints and motifs on various articles Best time to visit: The centre is open all year, but October to and the railway station for Madla Gate of Panna National Park is
March is when Kanha is at its best. also at Khajuraho.

I
Address: Corbett Foundation, Infinity Resort, Baherakhar Address: Responsible Souvenir Centre, NH39, Panna Khajuraho
f you’re at Kanha National Park, there is deep connection between human beings and
village near Baihar, P.O. Nikkum, Balaghat, Kanha National Park, Road, Panna; Timing: 11am to 4pm; closed on Mondays
a good chance that your resort or hotel nature, and the sense of well-being that comes Madhya Pradesh Contact: +91-9343425688
has a souvenir store with vibrant door from staying close to one’s roots. Timing: 11am to 4pm; closed on Tuesdays
Contact: +91-9650193664 (Infinity Resort) Art Ichol
hangings, bag charms, bookmarks, trinkets – Close to the legendary musical town of Maihar, Art Ichol in Ichol
all bearing colourful animal and bird prints. Wild at heart There are many other similar ways of experiencing Madhya village is set in four acres of green. It is an abode of art, open to
These are lovingly handcrafted by the women On a weekend at Kanha, we visited the Pradesh’s idyllic, artistic charms. Here are a few experiences to artists from across the world. They come here for residencies and
consider: workshops. But you don’t have to be an artist to be able to visit
at PashooPakshee, an organisation that works workshop that brings to life the many Art Ichol. It welcomes everyone.
with local, marginalised communities living in products that we had noticed on display Madla Craft Centre How to get there: Khajuraho (120km) and Jabalpur (160km)
In 2021, Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board joined hands with are the closes airports. Maihar, just 8 km away, is the closest
wildlife conflict areas. throughout our trip. It is a quaint little mud
PashooPakshee, an online store, to set up a sustainable, craft- railway station.
As the name suggests, all PashooPakshee cottage at The Corbett Foundation. The based centre to provide local employment and to give travellers Address: Art Ichol, Khajuraho-Bandhavgarh Highway, Ichol
creations draw inspiration from inhabitants interior, bursting with vibrant colour pops, a chance to pick up wonderful souvenirs and meet the artisans Village, near Maihar, Madhya Pradesh
who make them. You can also try your hand at making your own Cost: `7,000 onwards
of the wild: tigers, deer, monkeys, butterflies, is in sharp contrast to the sober exterior of
tote bags and stickers at the Craft Your Souvenir workshop (45 Contact: +91 8349449999; Website: www.artichol.in
owls and a host of other birds and animals. the cottage. Inside, Indrakala, Sanju and
These souvenirs and accessories emphasise the Sandhya, three enterprising women from the
 Practising
Halma in
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100
Jhabua 101

A beautiful example of self-sustained

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community living

“The Earth is thristly, why are you still sleeping?

Bring your tools and let’s get to work.
We’ve got a dam to build, we’ve got trees to plant.”

Loosely translated from the Bhil dialect, these are

lines sung in earnest by Puniyabhai Bhuria. A farmer
of the Bhil tribe, Puniyabhai stands against a pond
that he helped build in 2018 as he sings these lines
for us, explaining how the ‘talab’ came to be.
Built in the centre of wheat, corn and sugarcane
fields, the pond reflects the bounty that surrounds
it. But this wasn’t quite the scene a few years ago, Various medicinal plants
that surround the pond
Puniyabhai tells us. The land was parched and
summers especially were a challenging time on the
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The ‘talab’ was built by the Bhil community, with help from NGO Shivganga

fields. The pond, however, has embellished the fixing my roof and that I am going to host Much to ‘pond’er over they worked and sang (lines mentioned
landscape and made sure that the fields are a ‘halma’ at noon tomorrow. The suchak In 2018, when the village decided to above) and brought the pond to life. Built
always well watered. A change, facilitated by spreads the word and the next day, all those build a dam and a pond, as the Tadvi, entirely of stone and mud, it has no traces
the Bhils’ age-old practice of Halma and with who can make time for it, step forward with Puniyabhai announced a Halma. “200 of concrete whatsoever and has served the
the support of Shivganga, an NGO working their tools and expertise. It is a service in people came forward and participated farmers well for over four years now.
for the development of tribal communities in exchange for a modest meal.” in the efforts every day. The team from
Jhabua and Alirajpur districts. Puniyabhai has deeply imbibed this Shivganga helped with transporting Come one, come all
spirit. “Sometimes when people approach black soil from the neighbouring village Shivganga has been organising large scale
Living in harmony me for help as the Tadvi (village head), I of Meghnagar and in less than a month, Halmas in Jhabua since 2009. The events
Halma is a way of self-sustained community tell them quite frankly that I have humble the pond was ready,” he says. Everybody are open to all and attract students and
living. “Suppose the roof of my house is earnings, I will not be able to offer monetary brought their tools, but more importantly, professionals from outside of Madhya
ripped, I call upon the ‘suchak’ or ‘kotwal’ help. But I will make sure that I am of their spirit to the cause. Puniyabhai Pradesh too. Nitin Dhakad, an active
(a messenger) to announce that I need help service by offering my time and labour.” arranged for their meals each day. Together member of Shivganga and an alumnus of
 IIT Roorkee, started his journey with the from similar backgrounds. At a time when
NGO on one such volunteer trip. Originally the world is catching up with and cashing
from Kota, Rajasthan, so charmed was in on ‘sustainability’ one can take a cue
he by the simplicity of life here that he from the Bhil way of life, he tells us. “From
abandoned his plans of moving to the big composting their waste and revering nature
cities and decided to serve communities in to living in harmony, there is much to learn
the hinterlands instead. And he isn’t the here. But one needs to come with the right
only one. A bunch of his colleagues are mindset – to learn and not educate.”

THE INFORMATION
RURAL TOURISM

RURAL TOURISM
How to get there: Indore, at a distance of 150 km, is the closest Contact: +91 9993092604; Website: http://www.thelalit.com/
airport to Jhabua. The nearest railway station is at Nahargarh, 19 the-lalit-khajuraho/
km away.
Best time to visit: Anytime of the year is fine, but October Learn pottery in Pachdhar, Pench Jungle Camp
onwards, after the rains have just washed over, is particularly A small village of about 110 families, Pachdhar is synonymous
good. with pottery. Walk the lanes of the village while taking in the
Accommodation: The MPT Tourist Motel, NH-59, earthy scent of clay and try your hands at the pottery wheel.
104 Deojharipanda, Madhya Pradesh How to get there: Nagpur is the nearest airport and railway 105
Contact: 07392-244668; Website: https://mpstdc.com station.
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HERE,WELLNESS FOLLOWSYOU...
Website: You too can volunteer for a Halma in Jhabua. Read up Address: Pench Jungle Camp, Kurai, Seoni, Avarghani,
on the various volunteer activities with Shivganga here: https:// Madhya Pradesh
shivgangajhabua.org. Cost: `6,000 onwards (for accommodation)
Contact: +91-9999742000
In rural Madhya Pradesh, living off the land is as much about Website: www.penchjunglecamp.com
hard work as it is about celebrations. You can savour this way of
life during festivals or through a multitude of other experiences: Organic pleasures of Bagdara Farms, near Bandhavgarh
Between the safaris (morning and evening) at Bandhavgarh, pack
Experience rural life at Madla in a visit to the nearby Bagdara Farms where 27 different kinds
A river, forest and hills. Madla has all three within a kilometre. of turmeric are grown. Pick up organic haldi from here, before
And that is what makes this village, just 19km from Khajuraho, you drive to Dhamokar Gate for a quick stop at Gond and Baiga
so special. It is also home to artists who have decorated the walls villages in Bandhavgarh’s buffer zone.
of their houses with paintings. You can cycle through Madla, How to get there: Jabalpur (190km) and Khajuraho (250km)
take a village tour, enjoy local food and stock up on souvenirs, are the closest airports to Bandhavgarh. Umaria (37km) and
such as spices, papad and pickles. Katni (100km) are the closest railway stations.
How to get there: Madla is just 19km from Khajuraho; so this Address: Village Bagdara, Tehsil Barhi, Post Office Khitauli,
can be a day trip District Katni, Madhya Pradesh
Accommodation: Madla has a few homestay options, but you Accommodation: Bandhavgarh has many options, in different
can always make Khajuraho your base for this outing. budget categories.
Cost: Rooms at Lalit Temple View Khajuraho are available for Contact: +91 9560254646
`6,000 onwards Email: farmoperations@bagdarafarms.com
 A trishul, symbolic of Lord
Shiva, at the sacred grove
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A traditional Bhil healer with a root used as a remedy for ailments

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in Jhabua and Alirajpur districts look fertility, there is a remedy at hand for

Sacred Jungles of Jhabua

up to the forest as the primary source most ailments in the forest, Puniyabhai
of remedy for minor health concerns. tells us.
After sipping a cup of tea under a tree
in Puniyabhai’s yard, we follow him into Power to heal
From faith to healing, Matavan is a matter of belief for forest communities the forest, which is a short walk away. Along the walk, we notice that some trees
All along, he points out to us the many have under them a little canopy made
medicinal qualities of the forest that with branches and sticks. Kept below are

A
s a little girl, Puniyabhai Bhuria’s and will continue to do so for a long make it sacred for the Bhil community. clay urns and clay dolls in the shape of
daughter was once very sick. time to come, he tells us. The reverence The Mahua leaves, for instance, help horses. Easily camouflaged by auburn
He believes that she recovered in his voice is telling of just how much with cramps. Twigs of the ‘Ratandodiya’ leaves all around, they look like they’re
from the illness due to the blessings of the community looks up to these sacred help with dental care, the henna plant guarding a shrine. Puniyabhai starts
‘Matavan’ or the forest deity. Puniyabhai groves. No ritual is complete without helps in healing cracked feet, bark of clearing the dried leaves and putting
hails from the Bhil tribe in Jhabua paying respects to the jungle. the ‘Ladhodi’ tree is used to heal burns, aside the twigs as though tidying up a
district’s Rakhadia village and like most Although the curing of illnesses the ‘Baramaasi’ helps with swelling, the space in his home. “These are offerings
people here, he reveres the forest. It is by the blessings of Matavan may be ‘Garmala’ heals body pain, and so on. made to the forest. We don’t pluck the
what has sustained his family for aeons a matter of belief, most communities From treating cuts and bruises to aiding leaves or chop the branches of these
 trees for any domestic purpose,” he tells the philosophy is an extension of their
us. The clay horses are symbolic of Lord way of life and that certain plants and
Shiva, he informs. A revered deity in the trees are akin to family. “I am from the
state, you will find little Shiva temples, Dindod community, so the ‘Hetri’ tree is
the ‘trishul’ or ‘Shivlings’ every few particularly sacred to us. If I see someone
minutes. harming it or chopping it, it is my moral
Shivganga, an NGO operating in obligation to intervene and request him
Jhabua, has been instrumental in reviving or her to not do so. Similarly, someone
parts of the forest lost to ‘development from the Bilwal community would
work’ by planting close to 43,000 trees extend that protection to the ‘Bil Patra’
in the district. Together with the local or a person from the Singad community
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RURAL TOURISM
communities, they not only plant these would do so for the ‘Kekdia’ plant. We
trees, but also pledge to protect them consider these plants and trees as an
until the trees mature. Rajendra Dindod, extension of our families and it is our
a volunteer with Shivganga, tells us that duty to protect them.”

108 109
THE INFORMATION
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How to get there: The nearest airports from Jhabua are Indore, at knowledge of the wild to acquaint tourists with their home, Panna.
a distance of 150 km, and Vadodara, at a distance of 188 km. The How to get there: The closest airport and railway station to
nearest railway station is at Nahargarh, 19 km away. Panna is Khajuraho. The closest railway junction is Satna.
Best time to visit: Anytime of the year is fine, but Address: Jungle Camp Madla, Panna, Madhya Pradesh
October onwards, after the rains have just washed over, Accommodation: MPT Jungle Camp
is particularly good. Cost: `2,500 onwards (for accommodation)
Website: You can get additional information about Matavan and Contact: +91 7880108592
Shivganga’s efforts at https://shivgangajhabua.org Website: To book a walk with the Pardhis, visit https://
Suggested accommodation: The MPT Tourist Motel, NH-59, thelastwilderness.org
Deojharipanda, Madhya Pradesh
Contact: 07392-244668 Daytrip to Khamba village
Website: https://mpstdc.com Khamba, near Pench National Park, is a Gond village where you
can spend a day amidst birdsong, watch children at play, and see
Madhya Pradesh is a treasure trove of rural experiences that the sun go down.
soothe frayed city nerves. Here are a few other options for you: How to get there: Nagpur is the nearest airport and railway
station to Pench. Khamba village shares a boundary with the
Walk with the Pardhis national park.
Get a glimpse of the life of the Pardhis, MP’s traditional hunters. Accommodation: There are many options in Pench, across
Evolving with the times, the Pardhis now use their traditional price brackets.
 Both the flowers and the
leaves of the mahua tree
are used by humans
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Traditional Medicine and Hot Springs

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Traditional
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

Medicine and
Hot Springs
In a land as rich in myths, folklores and legends as
India, faith can often emerge to be a great healer.
Madhya Pradesh is no different in this regard
 Traditional Medicine and Hot Springs

Traditional Medicine and Hot Springs

The Healing
Herbs
112 Madhya Pradesh’s rich forests 113
contain a wealth of medicinal
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Here, Wellness Follows You...

herbs that heal and strengthen
the human system

N
ature is endlessly bountiful, and
humanity simply cannot count the
ways. From the water we drink to the
food we eat… everything comes from Mother
Earth. The planet provides us with everything one
would need for a rich and fulfilling life. Including
the means to restore health. For millennia,
civilizations across the globe relied on nature-
based healing. From Sumerians to the Greeks,
from Chinese herbal traditions to the hallowed,
The flowers of the Mahua
ancient systems of India, the magic of herbs has tree are used as a remedy for
always nurtured well-being. many ailments
The land of Bharat has produced wonderful
 systems such as Ayurveda and Siddha – and conditions. Which also makes it home to a
Madhya Pradesh is particularly blessed in wide array of tropical medicinal herbs.
its fertile generosity. Among Indian states,
the state has the highest forest cover by The Forest that Gives
area: 95,000 sq km which is about 31% of Foraging is a way of life with forest
its total area. It has as many as 11 agro- dwellers. It is fascinating to see the
Traditional Medicine and Hot Springs

Traditional Medicine and Hot Springs

climatic zones within its borders, explaining gatherers in action as they set out to
the astounding range of soil and climatic pick medicinal supplies. Leaves, shoots,
seeds, fruit, bark, root… the medicine
A young Tendu tree, whose fruit is prized for its medicinal properties could lie in anything. But essential is
the knowledge of what to take and what
not to take. The fruit may be full of
vitamins and antioxidants but the leaf
could be toxic! Some shoots are at their
best tender, some bark is to be collected
old. Deep familiarity with the forests and
114 115
its many gifts is learned over years, by Mahua flowers in bloom (left); an earthy, healing brew made from the flowers (right)
observing elders and listening to their lore.
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A generational knowledge handed down
through centuries. called Triphala. A mixture of three roots are used in herbal medicine too.
The Mahua tree has pride of place fruits – the afore-mentioned Amalaki Each plant and shrub has a story in
among the tribal communities of Central as well as Bibhitaki and Haritaki – this these parts. Luckily, they are being heard.
India. Every part of this ‘Tree of Life’ is used is a Rasayanic or rejuvenative formula
in various ways. As food, alcoholic drink, consisting of equal parts of the three
medicine, animal fodder and even fuel. myrobalans taken without seed. So fabled The Information
Then there is Neem. Used socially and and wide-ranging are the benefits of
culturally in a myriad ways, this beautiful Triphala that it is said: No mother? Do not The extraction of medicine from plant sources is an old art but is now
tree, with its bitter leaves, thrives on worry, as long as you have Triphala. being addressed with superior technology and quality control. The Minor
Forest Produce Processing And Research Centre (MFP-PARC) in Bhopal
sunlight and is considered the solution to Another product that is ubiquitous undertakes to deliver a range of products benefitting local communities as
several ills. So also the tart fruit of amla in the forests of Madhya Pradesh is the well as markets.
or gooseberry. Cold? Amla. Digestive aid? Tendu tree. The leaves are big business, as In various places, rich floral diversity is also enshrined in sacred groves,
which have been devotedly preserved by forest-dwelling communities.
Amla. Inflammation? Yes, amla. they are used to roll beedis but its fruit, Alirajpur, in southwest Madhya Pradesh, is particularly famous for
The system of Ayurveda has a range the Persimmon, is a star in its own right. It sheltering rare, endangered and threatened species of plants. About 144
plants belonging to 57 families and 134 genera have been identified here.
of concoctions for various conditions, but is believed to be anti-inflammatory and an
at the forefront is a particular combination aid in the control of diabetes; its bark and
 Yoga and Spas
That Madhya Pradesh is a hub of wellness now is evident
from the sheer number of high-quality spas, yoga and other
therapeutic facilities in the state. Here, we look at a few
serene spaces, where you can indulge in slow living, while
allowing your body to heal
Yoga and Spas

Yoga and Spas

116 117
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The buffer area at Kanha
Tiger Reserve has several
spots suited for meditation
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Yoga and Spas

Be Well…
and Wild!
118 119
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Experience wellness and
wilderness at the jungle glamps
in Bagh Villas

I
t is 4 p.m. and I’m sipping a cup of coffee on
the porch outside my tent. A pond lined with
jungle grass mirrors the wilderness around
it. A 5-foot anthill stands a few feet away. The
untamed beauty of the view in the front is in sharp
contrast to what stands behind – a luxurious tent
Lia hosts an evening
inspired by traditional shikar design of royal tents, meditation session against
pitched during the Maharajas’ hunting expeditions. the serene backdrop of the
It is this blend of raw and refined that defines the forests at Bagh Villas

experience at Bagh Villas in Kanha.

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Clockwise from left page: A swimming pool overlooking the wilderness; A
cosy corner of the tent offering a peaceful outdoor view; The tranquil spa room
offers a multitude of services to the visitors
 The Information
For the body and mind and mindful exercises. Seated amidst Blending in The Information
I take a walk around the property and the forest cover, with just enough light The thing that really strikes a chord with us is
am lured into a spacious reading room trickling through the canopy, the milieu is how Bagh Villas strives to be the least invasive How to get there: The closest airport to this part of Kanha is
Raipur, 4 hours away. The closest railway station is Gondia Junction, 125
with stacks of jungle stories and its perfect during our evening yoga session. in its surroundings. The pond around which kms away.
fair share of titles. With only 12 tents Lia, a trained yoga instructor and one the entire property is centred helps harvest Best time to visit: October to June is an ideal time to enjoy safaris, nature
occupying the sprawling expanse, it is half of the couple that runs the property, rainwater. There is no trace of single-use walks and cycle tours.
Address: Near Mukki Gate of Kanha National Park, Behrakhar village,
quiet enough to hear your own thoughts, hosts these sessions. The place also hosts plastics anywhere – everything is served in Balaghat, Madhya Pradesh
with an occasional cooing or croaking a tranquil spa room offering a range of reusable containers. The kitchen waste goes Cost: `18,000 onwards
Contact: +91-9111003371 or +91-9111003372
to pleasantly interrupt the stillness. The treatments such as aromatherapy and to make compost which is then used in the
Email: contact@baghvillas.com
place naturally is a site for meditation warm stone massage. in-house vegetable and herb garden. We had Website: https://baghvillas.com
a chance to savour some fresh home-grown
Below: The property hosts a spacious and peaceful reading room for curious minds Alternate yoga and spa options in Madhya Pradesh include:
Facing page: The elegant interiors of a shikar tent on the property veggies and herbs over an Italian spread for
Yoga and Spas

Yoga and Spas

lunch and may we say… mamma mia! All of MPT White Tiger Forest Lodge
this, served with a side of warm and regaling Named after the fabled white tigers in the 1950s, this exquisite property is
the perfect backdrop for a mediation camp.
conversations with Akhilesh Nair, whose How to get there: Jabalpur is the closest airport to Bandhavgarh and
labour of love Bagh Villas is. Umaria is the closest railway station.
122 Address: Bandhavgarh National Park, Umariya, Madhya Pradesh 123
As if making up for the quiet of the
Cost: Upon enquiry
day, meal times here are a peppy affair with
Here, Wellness Follows You...

Here, Wellness Follows You...

Contact: +91-78801852
everybody on the property getting together
MPT Baghira Jungle Resort, Mocha
over friendly chatter.
(Kanha National Park)
Located on the banks of the Banjar river, Baghira is a tranquil getaway ideal
For the outdoor souls for a mindful and meditative stay.
How to get there: Gondia and Jabalpur are the two closest
Apart from indulging in wellness activities on
railway stations to Baghira. One can also fly in, via Jabalpur
the property, one can experience the grand airport, and take a road trip.
outdoors with in-house naturalists on birding Address: Chiraidongri - Kanha Rd, Mocha, Madhya Pradesh
Cost: `4,500 onwards
trips and safaris. One can also explore the Contact: +91-78801852
neighbouring Baiga villages on a bi-cycle
trail. The villages here with their quaint mud MPT Amarkantak Holiday Homes
Located in the birthplace of the holy Narmada river, the calm environs of
homes and vast stretches of farms dotted with Amarkantak Holiday Homes offer a spiritual, meditative getaway.
lakes and ponds are straight out of a postcard. How to get there: By air, Bilaspur is the nearest airport. By train, the
nearest railhead is Karonji Railway Station.
The golden hour, with its unobstructed
Address: Near Narmada Temple, behind Jain Temple,
tangerine skies, is the highlight of the day. Amarkantak, Madhya Pradesh
Luxurious yet earthy, there’s plenty of Cost: `2,500 onwards
Contact: +91-9111401004
wellness and wilderness to experience at this
charming forest glamp.
 The Quiet
Perches
Five gorgeous places in Madhya
Yoga and Spas

Yoga and Spas

Pradesh to take a deep breath, clear
the mind and enjoy some quiet
124 contemplation 125
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S
o much to see, so much to do… travel can be a hectic
whirlwind of just ticking off the checklist. However,
there are a few sweet spots on earth where the
traveller must simply stand and be suffused with a sense of
presence. The awareness that only this moment matters.

Amarkantak
Amarkantak is where the mountain ranges of Vindhya,
Satpura and the Maikal Hills meet. The region sees the
origin of three rivers – the holy Narmada, Son and Johilla.
Near the spring from which Son emerges is a viewpoint
called Sonmuda. Surrounded by hills and dense forests, this
promontory affords a spectacular view of the sunrise. As
one looks down, the gurgling stream flings itself off the cliff
Sonmuda, the source of the river to the valley below. On the hilltop, there is a temple with a
Son, a tributary of the Narmada small yard that is ideal for a few rounds of Surya Namaskar,
and a gazebo that calls for serene chai and breakfast.
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Above: Meditate on the tranquil ghats of Maheshwar, on the banks of the Narmada

Sanchi Maheshwar
About 46km from Bhopal is Sanchi, famous Maheshwar, on the banks of the Narmada,
for its well-preserved Buddhist stupa. is an immersive experience. Said to be the
Commissioned by Ashoka in 3rd century ancient city of Mahishmati, there is layer
BCE, and added to by a line of devout kings, upon layer of history, myth, legend and fact
this site now contains about 50 structures associated with it. It was the capital of the
in all, including pillars, toranas, temples and great Maratha queen Ahilya Bai Holkar, and
monasteries. In fact, it is a record of Buddhist Ahilya Fort stands as a testament of that
presence in India for about 1,300 years. The golden era. With its sweeping stairs, the lofty
complex is serene. As one circumambulates the temples that line the riverside, the city is
structure, it emanates a sense of history as well steeped in history and faith. The scenic ghats
as worship. The best way to soak it in? Simply of Maheshwar are the perfect backdrop for a
sit and meditate a while. deep dive into meditation.
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128
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Clockwise from Top Left: Rock-cut Jain sculptures at Gopachal Parvat, Gwalior; ruins at the peaceful, sprawling premises
of Sanchi; and a quiet corner at Bharat Bhavan, Bhopal

Gopachal Parvat, Gwalior doubt the Tirthankaras confer their blessings.

If the hilltop fort of Gwalior is a much-
touted attraction, then what lies below, Bharat Bhavan, Bhopal
hugging the cliffsides, must be the unsung Located on the Upper Lake in Bhopal is not a
hero. The Gopachal Parvat contains natural wonder, but one wrought by the hand of
about 100 towering statues depicting Jain man. Bharat Bhavan is a beautiful multi-art
Tirthankaras carved out of the hillside. The centre designed by the celebrated architect
tallest of the magnificent Jain Colossi (7th- Charles Correa. This series of terraced gardens,
15th centuries) stands around 58ft. The spot buildings and pavilions is devoted to the arts and
wasn’t always peaceful: Babur commanded artists. The displays, installations and exhibits
their desecration in 1527. Although the can provoke, soothe, entertain and inspire.
statues have worn down with years, it is However, Bharat Bhavan is also an engaging
soothingly quiet today. On the traveller who retreat for its own sake – imbibing the breadth of
chooses to sit here and dwell on the Self, no human creativity over a protracted cup of tea.