Lecture #2

Introduction to Textile Dyeing

Dye:
A dye can generally be described as a coloured substance that has an affinity to the
substrate it is applying.
In other words, dyes are substances capable of colouring materials in such a manner
that the colour cannot be removed by rubbing or washing.
It should be noted that every coloured substance is not a dye. For example, azobenzene
is orange-red, but it is not a dye because it is incapable of colouring the fibre.
The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution and may require a mordant to
improve the fastness of the dye in the fibre.

Figure 1: Dyes

Pigment
A pigment is a material that changes the colour of reflected or transmitted light due to
wavelength-selective absorption. In contrast with a dye, a pigment is generally insoluble
in water and has no affinity for the substrate. Pigments are used for coloring paint, ink,
plastic, fabric, cosmetics, food, and other materials.
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 Figure 2: Pigment
Properties/Characteristics of Dyes:
A substance may be called dye if it satisfies certain conditions, such as:
 It must have a suitable colour.
 It must have solubility in water
 It must be capable of being fixed to the textile material directly or with the help of
certain reagents-called mordant.
 When fixed, it must not be fugitive (the colour must be fast to light and resistant to
soap and water, and to a certain extent to dilute acids and alkalis).
 It should not be toxic
 Economical for commercial manufacture.

The dye molecule must combine various groups of atoms into one structure to possess all
of these properties simultaneously.

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Classification of dyes according to Chemical Constitution

A number of chemical classes are reported in colour Index. Some of the chemical classes
are given as bellows:

Nitroso, Nitro, Momoazo, Disazo, trisazo, Polyazo, Stilbene, Diphenyle methane,

Triarylemethan,, Anthrauinone, Xanthene, Acridine, Quinoline, Methine, Triazole,
Indamine, Indophenol, Azine, Oxazole, Thiazole, Sulphur, Lactone, Aminoqquinone,
Hydroxyketone, Indigoid, Phthalocyanine, Vinylesulphone, etc.

Classification of dyes according to Application Method

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 Fibres and suitable Dyestuffs

Fibre Dyes
Cotton, linen, rayon, hemp, ramie, lyocell, Direct dye, reactive dye, vat dye, azoic
bamboo, and pineapple plant fiber dye, sulfur dye
Acid dye, natural dye, vat dye, reactive
Wool, angora, mohair, cashmere, and silk
dye
Polyester Disperse dye
Nylon Acid dye, disperse dye
Spandex Metal complex acid dye
Acetate Disperse dye
Acrylic Disperse dye, basic dye
Jute Basic dye

Dyeing
Dyeing is a process of applying colour to fibre, yarns, or fabrics (Textile materials) to
impart a particular hue to a substance in the presence of an application medium. Most of
the proficient dyers/dyeing engineers also claim that Dyeing is more an art than a science
because of the superficially innumerable variables that are complicated to monitor but
must be dealt with to attain high-quality products. It is noted that Dyeing represents the
third important step in Textile manufacturing.

Figure 3: Dyed Sample

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Printing
Printing is the process of localized application of dyes or pigments and chemicals by any
method which can produce particular effect of colour on the fabric according to the design.

Figure 4: Printed sample

Important points that should be considered in the dyeing process:

i. Textile raw material:
Fibre, yarn, Fabrics, Garments, accessories.

Cellulose fibres : Cotton. viscose

Protein fibre : Silk, wool
Synthetic fibres : Polyester, nylon, acrylic fibres

ii Dyes/ Pigments:
Dyes : Water-soluble
: Water-insoluble- mainly organic substances
Pigments : These may be organic or inorganic substances

iii. Chemicals : Acid, Salt, Alkali, Oxidizing Agent, Reducing Agent.

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 iv. Auxiliaries:
: Wetting agent
: Leveling agent
: Anti-creasing agent
: Anti-foaming agent

v. Dyeing M/Cs:
Jigger – For Woven Fabric
Winch- for Knit Fabric
Jet – for Knit/ woven Fabric

vi. Dyeing Process parameters:

Dye concentration (%)
Temperature (30-140oC)
Time (30 – 90 min)
PH of the Dye bath (4 -12)
M: L ratio (1:4 – 1:20)
Pressure,
Salt concentration (g/l)
vii. Utilities : Air, electricity, gas,

Important terms in the Dyeing

i. Shade: Shade is the depth of color% in a dyed textile material.
Light shade – up to 0.5%
Medium - 0.5 – 2%
Dark > 2%
Shade is expressed in % of dyes amount in a unit weight of textile materials.
ii. Substantivity:
 The natural attraction between the dye molecule and fibre is called
Substantivity.
 The colour strike is the result of Substantivity.
 It influences the dye molecule's transfer from the dye bath to textile materials
without the dyeing conditions.

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iii. Affinity:
 The attraction between dyes and fibre with dyeing conditions is
called Affinity. Dyeing condition means to heat or temperature.
 Affinity varies with the temp.

iv. Colour strike:

Initial exhaustion on the fibre in a dye bath is called a colour strike. At the
beginning of Dyeing, the dye transfer rate from the dye solution to the textile
materials is more than at any other time. In about 30 Seconds, 50% of the Dyeing
is completed.

v. Exhaustion/Absorption/Diffusion:
The exhaustion of the dye means the movement of dye molecules from the fibre
surface to the interior of the fibre (Position 4 in the Figure).
Moreover, the rate of exhaustion of the dye molecules depends on the bath
temperature and the dye molecules' size.
The higher the temperature, the better the exhaustion rate for dye molecules of
smaller size. The amount of dyes exhausted in the fibre can be expressed in
percentages. Example.

IDC−FDC
Exhaustion, E% = IDC
x 100%
Where, IDC = Initial dye concentration% before the dyeing,
FDC = Final dye concentration% after Dyeing

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 Figure 5: Exhaustion and fixation curve

Figure 6: Theory of Dyeing

vi. Adsorption:
Adsorption is the movement of the dye from the solution phase to the fibre
phase at the fibre surface (Position 3 in Figure). The adsorption rate depends
on the dye concentration, salt concentration, and liquor ratio of the dye bath.

vii. Sorption: When dye molecules enter into fibre then, it is called sorption.
viii. Desorption:
The process by which the dye molecules come out from the inner side of the
textile materials in particular conditions (such as mil, time temple) is called
desorption.
ix. Fixation:
After exhaustion, the formation of covalent bonds between dye and fibre
represents the fixation or the chemical reaction (Position 5 in the Figure).
After washing, the amount of dyes in contact with the fibre is called fixation.

Fixation% =Exhaustion% - (Wash+ Soap wash)

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 Difference between Dyes and Pigment
Dyes Pigments

Dyes arc colored substances which Pigments arc discrete colored particles
impart color to substrate. which give color to substrate.

Functional groups bond between dye Functional groups do not bond; typically
and substrate. need a binder.

Dyes arc organic compounds or Pigments arc organic or inorganic

mixtures. compounds.

Dyes arc soluble in medium. Pigments arc insoluble in medium.

Auxochrome groups are present. Auxochrome groups are absent.

Dyes are applied in solutions or in

Pigments arc used in suspensions.
dispersions.

The chemical constitution of dyes is The physical form, particle size of

important in the application. pigments is important in all applications.

While pigments are normally inorganic

Usually dyes are organic (i.e. carbon-
compounds, often involving heavy toxic
based) compound.
metals.

Longevity of dyes is shorter. Longevity of pigments is longer.

Vulnerable to fading. Resistant against fading.

Often combustible. Relatively less combustible.

It is costly. It is comparatively cheaper.

Dyes arc used for coloring textile

Pigments arc used for printing and used
materials, food stuffs, paper, leather
for coloring paints, varnishes.
etc.

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Classification of Dyeing Machinery or Methods of Dyeing according to the
form of textile material:

 Fiber dyeing machine

 Yarn dyeing machine

 Hank dyeing machine
 Package dyeing machine (Cheese dyeing, Cone dyeing)
 Continuous yarn dyeing machine

 Fabric dyeing machine

 Discontinuous dyeing machine

 Jigger dyeing machine
 Jet dyeing machine
 Winch dyeing machine
 Beam dyeing machine

 Semi-continuous dyeing machine

 Pad jigger dyeing method
 Pad roll dyeing method
 Pad batch dyeing method

 Continuous dyeing machine

 Pad-steam dyeing method (Used for dyeing with vat dye)
 Pad-dry dyeing method (Used for Dyeing with reactive dye)
 Pad-thermofix dyeing method (Used for dyeing with Disperse dye)

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 Difference between Dyeing & Printing

Dyeing Printing
1. This is the localized application of
1. There is no localized application. dyes/pigments on the fabric according
to design.
2. Colour is applied in form of thick
2. Colour is applied in form of solution.
paste.
3. Fabric, yarn and fibres are dyed. 3. Fabric is only printed

4. Generally one colour is used. 4. One or more colour is used.

5. Thickener is not used. 5. Thickener is used.

6. Steaming is not required on dyed 6. Steaming is used in the printed fabric
material. for fixation.
7. More time is required 7. Less time is required.

8. Less expensive. 8. More expensive

9. Much amount of water is used 9. Less amount of water is used.

10. Liquor ratio is high. 10. Liquor ratio is less.

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