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HUBS~

INTRODUCTION

HOW TO USE THIS SECTION


When working with a particular hub, follow the procedures
under GENERAL NOTES below, then turn to the section
devoted to that type of hub. Read the information in the sec-
tion introduction, then proceed to the trouble chart and dis-
assembly/assembly instructions for that hub.
When disassembling an unfamiliar hub without the aid of
drawings, it is a good idea to thread the parts on a wire in
the order and orientation that they were removed. Proceed
carefully and note similarities and differences with hubs
treated here.

Parts Interchangeability Charts


Charts are provided indicating interchangeability of individ-
ual parts between hubs or different models and from differ-
ent manufactures. Parts names used are taken from
manufacturer's literature and vary from brand to brand.
Assembly and Disassembly Instructions
Detailed instructions for overhauling most models of coaster
brake and internally geared hubs are provided. Note that the
assembly and disassembly instructions refer to the same
drawings. Disassembly steps are numbered down the left-
hand columns, assembly steps are numbered up the right-
hand columns. Wherever possible, drawings show parts in
the order they are to be removed and replaced. The same
parts names are used in the associated parts chart.

GENERAL NOTES
Chainline
Before removing a single-sprocket rear wheel check the
chainline. A straight-edge held against the chainwheel
should be parallel with the chain. If it is not, note amount
and direction of misalignment so that it can be corrected
later. This test only works if chainwheel is true. Out-of-true
chainwheel will cause excessive wear just as a misaligned
chain will.

Axle Nuts and Washers


When working on a wheel be sure to note the position of all
axle spacers and nuts. If necessary, thread them on a wire to
keep them in order and properly oriented.

1-1
~.
~ HUBS

INTRODUCTION (cont.)

Bearing Adjustment
Proper tools are essential. Never grip axle thread in steel
vise jaws. Use an axle vise or brass or wood inserts to avoid
damaging threads . Where possible, grip axle by flats or
locknuts. Use cone wrenches on cone and locknut flats; use
hook wrenches on the round notched locknuts found on
Sachs (F & S) hubs and Sturmey-Archer coaster brakes.
To adjust bearings, hold axle firmly and tighten cone finger
tight. Back off 114 turn, hold it with cone wrench, and lock
it in place with locknut. Check bearing operation and side
play. Axle should turn smoothly between thumb and forefin-
ger; installed wheel should show a trace of side play at the
rim. Tighten or loosen 118 turn if necessary. Some unthread-
ed cones have two locknuts. Adjust cone position with the
first locknut and lock in place with the second.

Sprockets, Spacers, Snap Ring and Dust Cap


Most sprockets are held on the driver by 3 lugs and a snap
ring. To remove a lugged sprocket, pry snap ring loose with
a thin-bladed screw driver. Place one finger over axle to
prevent snap ring from flying off.
Older sprockets are right-threaded and held in place by a
left-threaded lockring. To remove threaded sprocket,
unscrew lockring clockwise, then unscrew sprocket counter-
clockwise with sprocket tool. On freewheeling hubs without
a coaster brake it is necessary to remove the driver to
unscrew a threaded sprocket.
Note carefully the orientation of a dished sprocket (dished
in or dished out) and the position of all spacers. Improper
chainline can be corrected by rearranging spacers and/or
reversing dished sprocket. Misaligned chain will cause
excessive wear. For sprocket data see parts charts under the
hub type and the Sprocket Interchangeability chart on 1-3.

Cleaning Parts
Never use gasoline. It is simply too explosive. An enclosed
parts cleaning tank is essential for safe and efficient work.
Find a supplier under degreasing equipment in the Yellow
Pages of the phone book. Always clean the outside of the
hub shell: it is the only part of the job that anyone will see.

1-2
HUBS~
~

INTRODUCTION (cont.)

INTERCHANGEABLE 3-LUGGED SPROCKETS,


SNAP RINGS AND SPACERS

Sturmey- Karat
Sachs Archer Shimano NK 3-speed Sun Tour (specify flat
Sprockets (dished Y8") (dis hed YI6") (d ished Y8") (dished YI6") (dished YI6") or dished Y8")

12T see note4 170-123


3
13T see note4 HSL 713 32 1 0380 170-13 3
14T see note4 HSL 7W 321 0300 170-143
15T see note4 HSL 715 3 321 031()2 170-15
16T 1004 035 000 1 HSL 716 32 1 0320 291 40111601 170-16
17T 1004 047 000 1 HSL 717 321 0330 170-17
18T 1004 031 000 1 HSL 718 322 0340 293 40111801 170-18
19T 1004 032 000 1 HSL 719 322 0350 294 40111901 170-19
20T 1004 033 000 1 HSL 720 322 0360 295 40112001 170-20
2 1T 1004 034 000 1 HSL 747 32 1 0370
22T 1004 046 000 1 HSL 722 333 4900

Spacer 0518 018 000, HMW I27 30 40112901


JI16
Snap Ring 05120 11000, HSL 721 321 2100 31 40112911 108
DR 616E

I Available flat under a different part number


2 Also available flat as 321 0311
3 Flat only

4 Parts listed are all interchangeable although smaller dished sprockets may not fit with dish
toward hub . Bendix, NK coaster brake and New Departure sprockets look similar but do not
interchange with the above.

Torque settings
Hub locknut should be tightened to 175-220 inch pounds.
Wheel mounting axle nuts should be tightened to 240-300
inch pounds.

Hub Shifters

Triggers, cables, bell cranks and indicator chains are not gen-
erally interchangeable between brands. Within each brand
parts are interchangeable individually except as noted below.
In addition, Sachs and Bendix 3-speed hubs and 3-speed coast-
er brakes (pages 5-1, 5-3) are copies of each other with all
parts interchangeable; the same is true of the numerous
Sturmey-Archer copies.

1-3
~HUBS
~
INTRODUCTION
HUB SHIFTERS (cont.)

SHIMANO (all models, with or without coaster brake)


Except for Positron shifter parts, which must be used together
or not at all, all Shimano triggers and bell cranks are individu-
ally interchangeable. Any hub, including Positron hubs, can be
used with any shifter assembly.

Push Rods Push Rod Length


With the appearance of different length axles, different length
push rods have also been introduced. When inserted loosely,
the proper length push rod protrudes 10-12 mm (13/32 'us /32 ").

Bell Cranks
Positron bell crank. Positron bell cranks must be used with
Positron cable and triggers, but the combination can be used
on any Shimano hub. The indexing ("click") action is provided
by the bell crank mechanism, rather than in the trigger as in all
other systems. The trigger slides smoothly from 1 to 3 and the
single-strand Positron cable pulls or pushes the bell crank pad-
dle as required.

Positron Bell Crank


(bottom view)
inner wire
(single-strand)

cable clamp
inspection hole
stopper section
(must contact axle)

Cable Detail

-~~.
snap ring ~
~inner sleeve

To install the Positron bell crank, first make sure the lockbolt
is backed out, then insert the proper length push rod and slip
the bell crank over the end of the axle (coaster brake hubs take
the bell crank on the left side). Rotate the bell crank to line up
with the cable, push inward until bell crank stopper section
contacts the end of the axle (as visible through inspection hole)
and tighten lock bolt firmly. Be aware of damage to axle
threads. Recheck for contact. Click bell crank into 3rd gear
position (marked SET), then connect and adjust cable.

1-4
INTRODUCTION
HUB SHIFTERS
SHIMANO (coot.)

Lockbolt (non-threaded) bell crank. Lockbolt bell cranks can-


not be used with Positron cable or triggers, but do work with
Positron hubs. They install like Positron bell cranks (above)
but use the cable and trigger indexing of the threaded bell
cranks (below). Note that no axle locknut is used. Be sure to
check inspection hole for contact between axle and stopper sec-
tion.

Lockbolt Bell Crank


push on hard and tighten
Threaded Bell Crank

Threaded bell crank. Threaded bell cranks cannot be used with


Positron cable or triggers, but do work on Positron hubs.
Thread on by hand until pins or set screws bottom on the end
of axle (make sure locknut is clear of bell crank). Back off l/S
to s/s of a turn to proper position for cable alignment. Tighten
locknut counterclockwise against bell crank. Attach cable.

Triggers aod Cable


All Shimano shifter parts except Positron are individually
interchangeable, although single-ended cables require the uni-
versal cable clamp at the bell crank end. Positron shifter parts
are not interchangeable individually with any others, but the
Positron trigger-cable-bell-crank assembly can be used with
any hub. Note that the special solid, push-pull cable has a min-
imum turning radius of 31/ (7.5 cm) and the 41/ (10 cm) nearest
the trigger must be straight.

1-5
~ HUBS
~
INTRODUCTION
HUB SHIFTERS (cont.)
STURMEY-ARCHER
Sturmey-Archer and a number of other manufacturers make
shifter parts for Sturmey-Archer-type hubs. These parts are
generally all interchangeable.
Indicators and Push Rods

~
mm inches mm inches mm inches
Length 146 5 3/ 4 152 6 158.8 6 1/4
Hub 148 5 13!J6 154 6 1!J6 160 6 5 / 16
Type 149.2 5 7/ 8 155.6 6 1/8 161.9 6 3/ 8
3-Speed HSA 125 HSA 126
S3C HSA 126 HSA 315
TCW HSA 125 HSA 126
S512
Right side HSA 125 HSA 126 HSA 315
Left side HSA 126 HSA 126 HSA 316
S5 .1
Right side HSA 125 HSA 125 HSA 126
Left side HSA 126 HSA 126 HSA 316
S5 (early)
Right side HSA 125 HSA 126 HSA 126
Left side* HSA 266 HSA 266 HSA 267
S5 (late)
Right side HSA 125 HSA 126 HSA 126
Left sidet HSA 287 HSA 287 HSA 288
4-Speed HSA 136t HSA 137t
*Threaded push rod under stamped bell crank.
tPush rod with head like a nail under machined bell crank. Actual Size
tThkes gear indicator coupling HSA 149. jor direct comparison

Indicator chains (all models). Indicator chains come with four


different length indicator rods (see charts). Older units may not
bear the length markings now in use. Use the proper length
indicator whenever possible. If the correct length is not
installed, the hub must be adjusted by centering the "dead
spot" instead of aligning the ends of the rod and axle (see page
4-3 or 5-3). An undersized indicator rod will always work,
though it may be difficult to thread in. An oversized indicator
rod may prevent low gear from engaging properly. This occurs
if the rod protrudes so far past the end of the axle that the indi-
cator chain pulls it at an angle. The shoulder present on some
HSA 126 indicator rods marks the length of the shorter HSA
125 and can be used for adjustment when that substitution is
attempted.
Push Rods and Bell Cranks (S5 only). Four different push rods
and three bell cranks were made for the left-side control of the
S5 five-speed hub, but replace by indicator chains in the S5.1
and S5/2. See page 4-23 for parts interchangeability and con·-
version information. Push rods are listed with indicators in the
chart above.

1-6

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