Basic Troubleshooting & Tips Guide

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HERE IS HOW THE 4-STROKE OUTBOARD ENGINE WORKS

The most common internal combustion engines of today can be defined as either four-stroke or
two-stroke cycle. Two-stroke or four-stroke refers to the number of strokes the piston makes in
the cylinder to complete one power cycle. A stroke is the movement of the piston in one
direction, moving the piston from the top to the bottom of the cylinder is one stroke. A running
internal combustion engine continually repeats a power cycle called: intake, compression, power
and exhaust. Your automobile or stern drive engine is most likely a four stroke design. The
majority of existing outboard motors use two stroke technology. However the current movement
in emissions regulations is pushing the design of current outboards towards the 4 stroke and
direct injection two stroke design. Efforts to build a 4 stroke outboard in the past have been many
and varied, mostly unsuccessful as the design technology and precision production that can be
achieved today were impossible to achieve. Resulting motors were bulky and unreliable. Those
motors that were viable were for the most part rejected by the boating public.

"FOUR STROKE DEFINED"

The first description reviews the operation of the 4 stroke power cycle. Each 4 stroke image
depicts a piston in a cylinder, a spark plug and 2 valves; one intake, one exhaust. The valves are
held closed by means of a spring and opened by a rotating eccentric called a camshaft. The
camshaft is driven from The crankshaft by means of gears or a drive belt and timed to The up
and down movement of The piston. To complete all 4 strokes The crankshaft makes 2
revolutions.

GENERAL OPERATION
Intake stroke image 1
As The piston is pulled down during The intake stroke, The camshaft opens The intake valve and
a fresh charge of fuel/air mix is drawn into The cylinder. The intake valve closes when The
piston reaches The bottom of its downward stroke.

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Compression stroke (image 2)
The piston now begins to move upward and starts to compress The air/fuel mixture in The
cylinder. Both valves are closed. This continuing upward motion compresses The mixture to
about 100-120 PSI, around 7 or 8 times atmospheric pressure (The compression "ratio"). As The
piston reaches The top of The cylinder The spark plug fires and ignites The compressed mixture.

Power stroke (image 3)

The fuel air mixture now BURNS very rapidly, increases in pressure generated by combustion
force The piston downward in The cylinder. Both valves are still closed. This is The only stroke
that creates power in The 4 stroke cycle.

Exhaust stroke (image 4)

Upon completion of The power stroke The piston starts to move upward again and now The
exhaust valve starts to open. The continuing upward movement forces the hot burned gases out
past the exhaust valve. When The piston reaches The top of The cylinder The exhaust valve
closes. The piston starts to go back down and The cycle repeats itself.

The advantage to The 4 stroke is that The combustion process is very efficient at varying RPM
ranges with almost no unburned fuel escaping into The atmosphere. 4 stroke engines also
develop significant torque at low Rpm's. The big drawback is there is only one power stroke for
every 2 revolutions of The crankshaft so The engine lacks The burst of power experienced with
The 2 stroke engine. Four strokes are more complex as well as generally much heavier as a result
of additional parts EG camshaft, valve train, balance shafts etc. required to complete The power
cycle. This additional complexity does not reduce The engines reliability. Four strokes have a
proven track record in reliability and dependability.

1. 2. 3. 4.

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HERE IS HOW THE 2-STROKE OUTBOARD ENGINE WORKS

TWO STROKE DEFINED

The two-stroke engine completes its power cycle in only one crankshaft revolution with two
strokes of the piston. There are no valves, camshafts, springs chains, etc. so the engine is much
less complex and lighter. Instead of valves There are a series of strategically located transfer
ports - intake and exhaust, cut into the sides of the cylinder wall. The ports are on opposite sides
of the cylinder. The transfer ports are opened and closed by the up and down movement of the
piston. To accomplish a complete power cycle both sides of the piston are used; consequently
several events occur simultaneously during each stroke. They are:

Up Stroke - Intake and Compression:

On the up stroke the top side of the piston is compressing an air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. At
the same time the BOTTOM side of the piston pulls another fresh charge of air/fuel mixture into
the crankcase thru a one way valve called a reed valve. Near the top of the stroke the compressed
air/fuel above the piston is ignited by the spark plug and begins to burn. The rapidly burning fuel
expands and begins forcing the piston down.

Down Stroke - Power and Exhaust

On the down"power"stroke the piston is forced towards the crankcase reducing its volume and
creating a positive pressure. As it continues downward travel it starts first to uncover the exhaust
ports. Exhaust gas begins to rush out of the cylinder. Then the intake ports are uncovered. The
fresh air/fuel charge in the crankcase is forced into the cylinder and continues to push the
remaining exhaust gases out.

The 2 stroke process of purging exhaust gases from the cylinder and filling it with a fresh air/fuel
charge is called scavenging. Two stroke engines use 2 different scavenging methods, cross-
scavenging and loop scavenging. Both differing designs have particular advantages.

TWO STROKE CROSS SCAVENGED

two stroke cross-scavenged engines can be identified by the irregular shape of the top of the
piston called a deflector. This deflector directs the incoming air/fuel up, towards the top of the
cylinder. This creates a wall or column of fresh mix that sweeps across the cylinder towards the
exhaust ports. As the column advances it pushes the spent exhaust gases out of the exhaust ports.

TWO STROKE LOOP SCAVENGED

Pistons in loop scavenged engines are generally near flat. They do not rely on deflectors to aim
the fuel/air mix, rather they have shaped intake ports and combustion chambers to control the
scavenging of the cylinder. Several intake ports are aimed upwards and arranged such that their
combined streams flow upward and then LOOP down toward the exhaust ports.

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Cross-scavenged engines are better performing at idle and low speed. All older motors of any
horsepower are of this design. Until the late 60's it was not economical to try to produce this
design in quantity at a reasonable cost.

Loop charged engines, although having poorer idling characteristics are more fuel efficient and
perform better at higher RPM's than crossflow as they have lighter pistons. This lowers the strain
on the connecting rods, bearings and crankshaft. OMC created the first US production looper in
1968 with the 3 cylinder 55 HP.

Now that you have been thru the basics of the current marine and outboard engine technology,
what is all the furor in current outboards? What outboard engine choice should you make? What
brand should you purchase? is an "I-O" a better choice? How does the EPA equation?

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DIRECT FUEL INJECTION or DFI
is as the name implies, a process of injecting a fuel charge directly into the combustion chamber.
Not to be confused with electronic fuel injection (EFI) or programmed fuel injection into the
intake passages of a four stroke.

Up Stroke - Intake and Compression

On the up stroke the top side of the piston is compressing only air in the cylinder. At the same
time the bottom side of the piston is pulls more fresh air into the crankcase past a one way reed
valve. Near the top of the stroke, the direct injector sprays a plume of fuel directly into the
cylinder after the intake and exhaust ports are closed. This is accomplished in several ways
depending on the engine manufacturer, all serve the same purpose and have more or less the
same components. That fuel/air mixture is ignited by the spark plug. The rapidly burning fuel
expands and begins forcing The piston down.

Down Stroke - Power and Exhaust

On The down"power"stroke The piston is forced toward The crankcase. As it continues its
downward travel it starts first to uncover The exhaust ports. Exhaust gases begin to rush out of
The cylinder. The intake ports then uncover, fresh air compressed on The downstroke is then
forced into The cylinder and continues to push The remaining exhaust out of The cylinder. Since
there was only air in The crankcase The cylinder is cleaned very effectively and readied for The
next injection of fuel.

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OUTBOARD FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1. Off season is warm here. Do I need to winterize?

You certainly do! Off-season storage in a warm, and possibly resultant humid climate is
especially hard on unused equipment. Hawaii is the worst!

2. What ratio of oil do I mix with the gas?

If you have an owners manual, look there to see what the manufacturer recommends. If you
have no clue, almost any motor will perform just fine on a 24:1 ratio. Any motor built after
around 1965 will run just fine on 50:1 mix. For this ratio, I strongly recommend a MAJOR
MOTOR MANUFACTURER TCW III lubricant. Don't use aftermarket oils. EXCEPTION!
100:1. See question 3 below.

3. My manufacturer recommends 100:1 mix. Is that enough oil?

Absolutely NOT! DON'T DO IT! That's plenty to lubricate the motor under IDEAL
conditions with a HIGH QUALITY 2 cycle lubricant. The problem comes after use - the lack
of adequate oil for storage on the internal bearings, rings, and cylinder walls leaves your
motor wide open to IMMEDIATE internal damage, and shortened service life.

4. My motor runs rough. Should I add an additive to the gas to clean the carburetor?
Only BOMBARDIER (Evinrude/Johnson)'s "Fuel System Cleaner" is specifically made to do
this safely (this presumes the passages & jets are not totally clogged). There is no other known
additive that you can add to the gas mix that will clean an outboard carburetor. Automotive-type
panaceas contain strong solvents and cleaners that will damage or destroy the components of the
outboard fuel system. BOMBARDIER (Evinrude/Johnson) also makes a product that will keep a
clean system clean - "2+4" fuel conditioner. I am certain there are equivalent products from the
other companies as well. If you do have a "dirty" carburetor, the only sure cure is to disassemble
it and use approved cleaners to de-scrozz it.

5. What can I do to make this outfit a little faster?

That opens a can of very large worms! The best way to go faster is to get a bigger motor.

6. My motor "clunks" when I am going ahead at higher speeds. Acts just like I hit something in
the water!
This is a shifter engagement problem caused by various maladies on different makes and models.
If an adjustment of the linkages to favor forward doesn't help, it will require a trip to the motor
doctor.

7. My motor fouls the recommended spark plugs constantly. What do I do?

First thing to do is make sure the thermostat is working and the motor is running at the correct
temperature. If your motor is cool or just warm to the touch, it is too cold and will foul plugs. If
the cooling system is all in order, try the next hotter plug. The manufacturer's recommendation is
usually to the conservative side and takes into consideration the extended WOT use and abuse
some put their motors through.

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8. Black oil is leaking out of my lower unit by the propeller and dripping off. Do I need a gear
case reseal?
Probably not. What you are seeing is residual oil draining down out of the exhaust system.
Especially noticeable if you ran the motor for awhile at lower speeds in colder water before you
removed it from the water. It is a good idea to check the gear case fluid after you use the motor
to see what the oil looks like. It should be from the color of honey to coffee. If it is creamy white
and foamy, there is water in it. (Some murkiness is normal over time.) Worse is black, foul
smelling and/or under pressure. This is dirty, burned lube and should be changed immediately. If
you see any metallic colors floating around in the oil, you got troubles, Bunky!

9. I moor my boat in the water. I notice that its way slower now than it was when launched. I
need a tune-up!
Before you drag it to the shop, check several things. First, does the bottom of your boat look like
a Caesar salad? Marine growth can be prolific, and will cost you a large percentage. In saltwater,
the buggies will start growing in 3 - 4 days! Second - is the inner hull of your boat full of water?
if the flotation area under the flat floor is loaded, the extra ton of water will slow ya down. Third
- how's the propeller? A couple of dingies in the wrong place will cost miles per hour! The outer
10% of the blades does 90% of the work.

10. I have great spark at the plugs, but I have a bad miss.
Here I usually find a case of a weak coil or dirty breaker points, leaky condensers, etc. What
looks good on a set of plugs laid on the block is not indicative of a healthy ignition system. The
spark from a modern electronic system should consistently jump a 3/8ths to 1/2" gap. The older
Battery CD motors are especially hard on coils, so much so that you should gap the plugs down
to .030 or less and replace the coil whenever there is the least misfire.

11. I have great spark cranking my motor with the plugs out, but it goes away when they are
installed. What's wrong?
The first question, is the motor cranking fast enough to properly energize the ignition system! the
average magneto energized CD ignition needs at least 600 rpm cranking to work. Check the
BATTERY, the CABLES, the SOLENOID, the STARTER. If they are all OK, look at the
ignition STATOR, SENSOR and the COIL(S) OMC V4 motors from 1973 thru 1977 have a
problem with weak sensor coils. New ones are EX-PENSIVE! Look around at the local O/B junk
shop for used ones, old 1.5 volt coils are white,the improved 3 volt ones are reddish in color.

12. I get a shock from my control box!

You have a leak in the high voltage leads in your wiring system, allowing the primary ignition
voltage to leak to ground.(You, in This instance!) These systems can create over 300 Volts AC,
more than your house wiring. Disconnect the shorting lead(S) at the powerpack, and if the shock
disappears, identify the bad wiring or switch, and replace. This can also cause the problems in Qs
#10 & 11.

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13. How often should I replace my water pump?
The modern outboard's water pump housings are stainless steel, impellers are of compounds that
do not rot or deteriorate in salt water. With care will last a long time. There ARE 2 enemies. first
- NEVER Start the motor dry - not even for a "couple of seconds". Water lubricates the pump,
and a dry impeller is like a locked up set of tires in a panic stop! The pump will self-destruct.
Second - abrasion - does the water you boat in have a lot of silt of murk in it? Do you hit a lot of
muddy bars and sandy beaches? Ask around to see how frequently this environment in your area
eats pumps and act accordingly. You should replace this impeller every couple of years in any
case and definitely in an engine that has seen extended storage.

14. I have a lot of gas left over from last season. Is it OK to use it This year?
If you added a fuel stabilizer and IF you filled the tank up when you put away the boat, it should
be OK. If you have a high performance ski or Bass boat, I would advise at least half the old gas
be siphoned out and used in your tow vehicle, replace it with mid-grade fuel. In fact, use mid-
grade in any motor over 50 HP and NEVER use 87 octane, it’s not fit for your lawn mower, let
alone a $10,000.00 outboard.

15. I have a 2 cylinder OMC outboard with externally mounted coils and breaker points. I have
weird spark problems. What can I do?
Make sure the stator plate (Where the points and condensers are mounted) is not wobbly on the
top of the block. Excessive sideplay will make it impossible for the point gap to be properly
adjusted. Do a continuity test on the 2 blue wires that connect to the coils to make sure they do
not have a wire break inside the insulation. (Stretch 'em!) I've seen numerous instances of This
failure. The points in This system must be SCRUPULOUSLY clean. The voltage through these
is so low, they tend to get dirty and malfunction. The problem is made worse in that the charge
coil grounds through the opposite set of points to the cylinder being triggered. A weak spark on
#1 is often caused by defective points on #2!

18. I have an older outboard with higher compression. Should I burn PREMIUM gas?
NO! Here's why. The octane ratings are composed of 2 components, research octane and motor
octane (RXM/2) divided by 2. The RESEARCH octane is the quality of the base stock, the
MOTOR octane is derived from additives. The oil company will never tell you the ratios.
Problem is the highest octanes are achieved by MOTOR octane additives, which will just gum up
the pistons in a 2 cycle engine. Base stock is generally the same. The MID-GRADE gas has the
detergent additives needed to clean your motor and sufficient octane for MOST motors. If you
have a MERCURY, FORCE or OMC motor from the early 70's thru mid-80's refer to technical
bulletins from the manufacturers for timing changes and replacement head gaskets to lower
compression to use today's gasoline's.

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CARBURETOR SYSTEM REPAIR TIPS

Outboard carburetion systems are generally pretty rugged and reliable. Unless you have many
running hours on a modern outboard, this system gives little trouble.

Older, pre alcohol fuel days motors have fits when presented with " extended " fuels and should
you have one of these I strongly recommend you upgrade the fuel system components.

The worst enemy of fuel systems is the fuel itself left to spoil in the unused motor. Proper
preparation for storage of motors in seasonal climates is a MUST to avoid this nasty problem.

If your engine is suffering from a suspected fuel problem, here's how to check for dirt in the
carbs. You will find a screw in the lower portion of the float bowl on almost all outboard
carburetors, generally the main high speed jet is located immediately behind this. On
Chrysler/Force concentric bowl carburetors you will have to take the float bowl clear off to look.
IF there is white powder or jellylike translucent gleep you have water that has been sitting in the
fuel system, the carburetor will have to be cleaned and the source of the water isolated and
corrective action taken.

Plain clear water indicates only that you need to find out where it came from as above. Shouldn't
hurt it any, but small low speed passages may have water in them as well and you will have to
clear them with compressed air.

Find brown goo, brownish or greenish deposits or some stuff that looks like tree sap, you have a
case of varnish and will need to examine ALL the lines as well as the fuel pump diaphragm for
deterioration from the bad fuel. It eats everything.

Varnished bowl

We have found the use of OMC Engine Tuner will clean the carbs without exposing you to caustics, has no unpleasant odor and
it rinses away with water. Similar products are available from other manufacturers. Many of today's modern engines have some
sort of oil premixing or injection system, you need to examine this system closely as well. If you are experiencing excessive oil
usage on an Evinrude or Johnson equipped with the VRO system, look for an air leak on the fuel side. Air leaking will cause the
oil side to add too much for the imaginary gas that is actually air.

The motor cover is a machinery guard. Use caution when conducting tests on a running engine.

IF you wish to service or repair your own fuel system, WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND you obtain a model-specific service manual
to help you.

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GASOLINE OCTANE OBSERVATIONS

OPINIONS STATED HERE ARE THE RESULT OF OUR RECOMMENDATIONS. YOUR

RESULTS MAY VARY. BE ADVISED WE ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY
WHATSOEVER FOR YOUR RESULTS FROM READING THIS INFO.

I use 87 octane in my car, why can't I use it in my outboard?

This stuffs' not fit to use in your lawn mower, let alone a $12,000 high performance outboard
motor. The low octane and lack of detergent additives just leave you open to motor failures from
detonation, gum and carbon formation, coked up rings and piston scuffing. Your automotive
engine is a 4 stroke with totally different lubrication and fuel usage requirements.

Can I use oxygenated gasoline in my boat?

A major oil company survey of the manufacturers of engines for non-automotive uses -- boats,
garden tools, chain saws and snowmobiles -- indicates that oxygenated gasoline will perform
satisfactorily in most later-model engines. However, some manufacturers expressed concerns
about its use in older engines. The owner's manual is the most authoritative source of
information about the fuel requirements of your equipment. If your equipment is older and the
manual does not mention oxygenated gasoline, consult an authorized dealer.

Oxygenated gasoline will perform satisfactorily in most engines under normal conditions of
storage and use. However, you should be aware of the potential problems -- two involving the
gasoline itself and several involving gasoline/equipment interactions. Follow the suggested
precautions if they apply to your situation.

Concerns are:

Phase Separation

Gasoline oxygenated with alcohol readily takes up water when it is present. The water may be
condensed out of humid air or be a contaminant in the fuel system. Dissolved water will not
interfere with engine operation. But if enough water is present, gasoline oxygenated with alcohol
will separate into two liquid phases: a top phase which is almost all gasoline (and oil, in the case
of 2-cycle fuel) and a bottom phase of water and alcohol. (Phase separation is not a problem with
gasoline oxygenated with MTBE.) Phase separation may make the engine difficult or impossible
to start. To solve the problem, replace the separated mixture with fresh gasoline.

The situation with the greatest potential for damage is phase separation in the fuel tank of a 2-
cycle engine without an oil sump. If the engine is able to start and run on the alcohol/water
phase, it won't be lubricated -- almost all the added engine oil will be in the gasoline phase.

To minimize the chance of phase separation, keep water out of your equipment's fuel system and
practice good fuel management. You can eliminate the possibility of water pickup when your
equipment is not in use if you keep the fuel tank full and close the tank vent.

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Deterioration During Storage

If a gasoline is of poor quality or if the storage conditions are adverse, gasoline can oxidize and
form gums over the period of several months. These changes can increase engine deposits and
filter plugging. There are reasons to suspect that oxygenated gasoline may form gums more
readily than conventional gasoline, but actual evidence is limited. A safeguard recommended by
some manufacturers is the use of name-brand gasoline from companies recognized for the
quality of their products. Another safeguard is good fuel management.

Practice Good Fuel Management

Match your purchases to your consumption.

Don't buy more than you'll use in one to two months.
Store gasoline in a tightly-closed container in a cool, dry place.

Leaning Effect

Compared to a conventional gasoline, oxygenated gasoline results in a leaner air-fuel mixture.

This causes some engines to run rough. Also, engines may run hotter on lean mixtures, which, in
the extreme, can result in engine damage. If the engine in your equipment is running rough and it
has an adjustable carburetor, check that the adjustment is proper for the fuel you are using. Either
contact a knowledgeable serviceman or follow the manufacturer's instructions in your owner's
manual.

Some manufacturers--Arctco, Bombardier, Outboard Marine, and Polaris--indicate that certain of

their engines may require larger carburetor jets to compensate for the leaning effect of
oxygenated gasoline. Consult your authorized dealer or serviceman about the manufacturer's
recommendations for your engine model and year.

Vapor Lock And Difficulty Restarting A Hot Engine

"Vapor lock" is loss of power or engine shutdown due to gasoline vaporization in the fuel
system. Vaporization prevents the fuel pump from delivering sufficient gasoline to the engine.
Factors favoring vapor lock are high ambient temperatures which accompany high power output.
Sometimes vaporization occurs after the engine has been intentionally stopped because of the
cessation of mechanical cooling and fuel flow. In this case, the hot engine will be difficult to
start.

Vapor lock and hot restarting have been reoccurring problems for engine manufacturers. Some
manufacturers are concerned that oxygenated gasoline will aggravate these problems because
adding either ethanol or MTBE to gasoline increases volatility.

The volatility of gasoline sold in each area of the country is tailored for the expected ambient
temperature range. Buying smaller amounts of gasoline more frequently make it more likely you
will have a gasoline of the correct volatility.

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Your owner's manual may suggest additional ways to avoid vapor lock. Remember that some
situations lead to vapor lock more often than others. One is running an engine at full power for
an extended time on an unseasonably warm day. If vapor lock does occur, it will probably be
necessary to allow the engine to cool before it can be restarted.

Materials Compatibility

Deterioration of elastomers and plastic parts is not expected to be a problem with current
production engines. For older engines, some problems have occurred with elastomeric parts (fuel
pump diaphragms, needle valve tips and seats, fuel lines, gaskets, etc.) when they were first
exposed to oxygenated gasoline. Some manufacturers recommend that you frequently inspect the
fuel system for leaks and for deteriorating elastomeric parts when you operate an older engine on
oxygenated gasoline. There is also the possibility of leaks after you change back to conventional
gasoline: Seals that were swelled by oxygenated gasoline may shrink. (The same mechanism is
responsible for leaks cause by large changes in the composition of conventional gasoline.)
Replacement fuel system parts have been engineered to be compatible with oxygenated gasoline.

Metal Corrosion

Some manufacturers report corrosion of metallic fuel system parts when gasoline oxygenated
with alcohol was used in older engines. Except for periods of prolonged storage, this does not
appear to be a concern with late model engines. Corrosion problems may be aggravated by the
phase separation of a gasoline oxygenated with alcohol. The alcohol/water phase tends to be
more corrosive than the oxygenated gasoline itself.

Solvency

Oxygenated gasoline may loosen deposits from fuel system surfaces because it is a better solvent
than conventional gasoline. The suspended solids can plug the fuel filter and carburetor passages.
This is not a common problem. It is most likely to occur when older equipment is first fueled
with an oxygenated gasoline. Clean the fuel tank and fuel system and replace the fuel filter; then
refuel with fresh fuel.

What Octane gasoline should I use for my outboard?

I have an older outboard with higher compression. Should I burn PREMIUM gas?

NO! here's why. The octane ratings are composed of 2 components, research octane and motor
octane (RXM/2) divided by 2. The RESEARCH octane is the quality of the base stock, the
MOTOR octane is derived from additives. The oil company will never tell you the ratios.
Problem is the highest octanes are achieved by MOTOR octane additives, which will just gum up
the pistons in a 2 cycle engine. Base stock is generally the same. The MID-GRADE gas has the
detergent additives needed to clean your motor and sufficient octane for MOST motors. If you
have a MERCURY, FORCE or OMC motor from the early 70's thru mid-80's refer to technical
bulletins from the manufacturers for timing changes and replacement head gaskets to lower
compression to use today's gasoline.

OutboardExpert.com
IGNITION SYSTEM REPAIR TIPS

The subject of the outboard ignition system could fill a phone book! I will only try to give a
general procedure to follow here, the variety of systems used is boggling to the mind. Keeps
engineers busy I suppose.

The simplest system is the flywheel magneto. First thing to have handy to service this is the
correct type of flywheel puller. All outboard flywheels are pulled from the center, under no
circumstances attempt to remove a flywheel by use of a gear puller that hooks under the outside
edge. You WILL ruin it!

Almost all ignition systems incorporate some sort of a stop switch. The FIRST test of any system
is to simply disconnect this circuit AT THE SOURCE to determine if there is a simple short in
the wiring or switches. On most new CDI systems this wire has been standardized as a black
wire with a yellow stripe.

While we are on the subject of grounds, be sure all the coil, CDI pack and mounting bracket
ground leads are clean and have continuity. If there's no ground, the system won't work.

On a magneto energized CDI system, take a visual look at the stator up under the flywheel. Is it
leaking honeylike liquid potting compound onto the top of the block? Drips hanging off the
coils? Cracks/burned spots? Even if the electrical values are on spec, a stator showing any of
these symptoms is NO GOOD and must be replaced. This applies to any other potted component
as well.

There is a definite relationship between the charging circuit and the ignition on all CD systems.
It is IMPERATIVE that all battery connections be clean and tight. I recommend a marine type
battery with threaded posts to accept your battery cables. Toss the wing nuts and use stainless
steel elastic lock nuts. Mount excessive accessory leads on a separate terminal; many newer
marine batteries have 2 on each side. Test the rectifier/regulator to be sure the system is
charging. An inoperative charging system will cause an otherwise good stator to overheat
causing it to fail.

WARNING! These systems carry up to 300VAC in the primary and some 45,000 in the secondary. Extreme caution is a MUST when servicing.

Perform all ignition coil and powerpack tests on an insulated or wooden bench top.

Do not handle CDI powerpack or ignition coil output leads during any type of output test.

Do not touch any of these leads when the engine is cranking or running.

Motor cover is a machinery guard. Use caution when conducting tests on a running engine. BE CAREFUL. Other hazards may exist, you should be aware at all times.

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COOLING SYSTEM REPAIR TIPS

Outboard cooling systems in general are quite reliable. As the size of the motor increases
however the complexity also increases and you must check all the components for proper
functionality. To and including temperature sensors, thermostat(s), pressure relief/bypass valves,
overboard hoses and fittings.

Cooling system and waterpump ills can be alleviated by replacing the pump every so often.
Impellers take a set when unused and can shed vanes fast when you operate the outboard after an
extended period of storage. I advise that ANY motor which has been idle for more than 1 year
have a VISUAL check of the pump. It's real easy to install a new impeller and avoid extensive
engine damage caused by an overheat.

Run your motor without water and the impeller and housings on a modern outboard will be
ground into scrap in 30 seconds or less! NEVER START THE MOTOR ON THE TRAILER
WITHOUT WATER TO THE ENGINE.

Should you find that the pump has self-destructed due to lack of water, be VERY CAREFUL to
be certain that fragments of the impeller have not passed into water tube and block and restricted
passages. If you suspect that you have not recovered all of this material, better safe than sorry
and remove ALL the covers and clean it out.

IF your motor has suffered a cooling system failure, there are several factors to consider
depending on the severity. You MUST replace the head gasket as overheating will turn it into
carbon and its sealing properties will be destroyed. Check the exhaust cover gaskets as well.
Motors equipped with thermostats, will generally require replacement of the stat as well as the
pressure relief bypass valve, a plastic part that will likely be melted. A severe overheating could
have damaged the pistons and rings. If removal of the head shows any parallel vertical lines in
the cylinders, or worse yet, aluminum transfer to the walls you should remove the transfer covers
and the exhaust plate to check the pistons for scuffing.

Many times transferred aluminum can be removed from the cylinder walls with Muriatic acid.
Observe common sense precautions when using this strong acid! CAREFULLY, using a cotton
swab, apply only to the affected area until it stops fizzing, the aluminum deposits will be eaten
away. You must thoroughly neutralize the acid with soda after cleaning off the aluminum! A
light scuffing up to remove embedded carbon and restore some crosshatch with some oiled 320
grit wet-or-dry sandpaper will heal up a slightly scuffed cylinder.

To help the motor heal itself from the distortions caused by an overheat, I recommend you run it
on a 24:1 oil mixture for several hours as well as limiting the speed to 1/2 throttle or less. When
you finish initial testing on an overheated engine, be sure to retorque the fasteners on all covers
removed to check it over as well as retorquing the head gasket.

OutboardExpert.com
 ELECTRIC STARTING ENGINE TIPS

Here's some quick tips to help you in preventing and troubleshooting starter problems!

WORN OUT BATTERY!

Batteries cause more trouble than any other component in a marine electrical system. Always make sure the
battery is FULLY CHARGED and LOAD TESTED before making any replacements of other components.

LOOSE CONNECTIONS

Be sure to check all the connections and make certain they are clean and tight. In saltwater areas especially, look
for any damaged insulation on battery cables and switch leads, and associated corroded wiring.

HIGH RESISTANCE

Corrosion - the enemy #1 of your cranking circuit! Undersize wire, loose and dirty connections will cause high
resistance, heat at the point of the problem,and voltage drop to your electrical components. This heat will BURN

OutboardExpert.com
YOU and also destroy your electrical components.

WIRE ROUTING

Incorrect wiring can easily cause burnouts. Always tag the wires when removing an electrical component. If you
are unsure how to connect an electrical component, contact the vendor or the MASTERTECH

Questions about what battery to use in your marine application? Here is THE LAST WORD on that subject!

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW FOR STORAGE

OPINIONS STATED HERE ARE THE RESULT OF OUR RECOMMENDATIONS. YOUR

RESULTS MAY VARY. BE ADVISED WE ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY
WHATSOEVER FOR YOUR RESULTS FROM READING THIS INFO.

Proper preparation for periods of extended storage of your outboard requires a comprehensive
look at the entire boat/motor/trailer package. Of course, if you just have a small "kicker" that you
use on a cartopper, the only thing you have to deal with is the motor itself!

Gather the following items, along with your boat, fuel tank filled, in an area where you can run
the motor on your "flush" attachment.

Applicator containers of: storage "fogging" oil, fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or OMC 2+4, anti-
corrosion spray, and a good spray lube product like LPS2 or OMC 6 in 1. A trailer jack. Your
toolbox.

Proceed as follows. First, add some fuel stabilizer to the gas in the recommended amount. In fact,
the best thing to do is add it before you fill up the tank! Why fill the tank? (After all, its gonna sit
- right?) This will prevent a couple of unpleasant things from happening. Condensation. And
oxidation and subsequent spoilage. I hope you can get undoped gas - oxygenated and gasohol
Fuels are a NO-NO! if you cannot get anything else, you must COMPLETELY drain ALL the
fuel system. And I mean AAALLLL. The lines, the VRO on OMC motors, the whole monkey.
This stuffs deadly. Start the motor on the flush, run it up to warm and to ensure that the treated
fuel gets in to the whole system. Apply the fogging oil to the carburetors equally - some motors

OutboardExpert.com
have a fitting you can apply this thru, most you will have to look around for openings to shoot
the stuff through, maybe even remove the silencer cover. You'll get lotsa' smoke. Great. So
disconnect the line and run the motor out of gas at IDLE. Keep fogging. Note OMC motors with
VRO system you will have to shut it off and drain the carbs manually or depend on the stabilizer.
If you try to run the gas out, the VRO will fill the carbs with oil, this will turn to goo by
spring.After the motor is run , unhook the flusher and drain the gear case and refill with fresh
lube. If there is water in the old stuff, it could freeze and burst the case. Pull the spark plugs , tilt
up and spray more storage fogging oil in the cylinders directly, turn it by hand to distribute it on
the cylinder walls.

This should take care of the motor innards. But - wait - you're not done yet. Here's the good stuff.
Clean the powerhead up to remove accumulated crud and any salt deposits.Let it dry, douche it
good with the 6 in 1 or equivalent, coat electrical connections with anti-corrosion spray.

Next, (unless you have hydraulic steering) disconnect the steering link arm from the motor and
unscrew the big nut on the motor tilt tube. remove the steering cable from the motor and extend
the cable all the way out. Run an oily rag down the tube to remove all the crud from the bore.
Clean all the gunk off the cable and let it hang down for awhile to get any water out. then spray
it, and the tube with the anti-corrosion spray. Leave it off and extended, hang it up under the well
where it won't get in the weather. For hydraulic, remove the extenders that hold the cylinder and
remove the rod thru the tube, clean as above. You ain't seen grief til this stuff all seizes up and
you get the bill.

When you have the boat where you are going to store it, disconnect the battery and REMOVE IT
from the boat, put it inside on a board and keep a trickle charger on it a couple days a month.
Clean the terminals with soda and spray with the anti-corrosion treatment. Spray the area around
the base of the powerhead and the trim (if equipped) with anti - corrosion. If the inside of your
motor cover has a foam sound blanket and you use the motor in saltwater, see if it is a closed cell
foam, if not RIP IT OUT! Salt is hygroscopic, that is it attracts moisture and the 2 do a great job
of eating up the motor. All OMC motors use cheap foam. 86 it quick! Store the motor tilted
DOWN to running position. And when you put the cover back on, don't wrap the motor in a
piece of plastic or a "Blue" tarp. cover it up with a cloth cover and set a piece of plywood or
something on top to keep rain off. Otherwise condensation will never dry off the block. Same for
the boat. It's gotta breathe.

OutboardExpert.com
POWERHEAD BREAK-IN

Break In Your Motor Right!

Before starting your overhauled engine please do the following:

1. Test/replace the thermostat(s). Pressure relief bypass valves should be serviced for
correct operation.
2. Examine or Replace the water pump.
3. Retard the timing 2-4 degrees. This can be done on most engines by turning in the timing
screw towards the timer base 2-4 turns.
4. Check to be certain you have the correct heat range spark plugs.
5. Make sure you have fresh, clear 89 octane premium fuel and TCW-III oil -- I strongly
recommend using oil supplied by one of the major engine manufacturers. e Even better
are the newly available synthetic blend oils as they will prevent carbon accumulation.
Cheap oil and gas are a false economy on modern engines. I recommend extra oil for the
first 10 hours -- double oil seems to foul the plugs and 1½ oil seems to work.
6. Check the high speed jet sizes in the carburetor. Check for the latest factory
recommendations and use them or one size larger.

Break-in Procedure
Start your engine at home base using flush muffies to see that it actually does start and doesn't
have any obvious problems i.e. - water leaks, etc... Once it is obvious the engine will start and
run I suggest the engine be put in the lake and run for 20 minutes at high idle RPM (750 - 850)
unloaded or out of gear. Check the plugs and carefully feel the engine to make sure it is not
overheating. Restart the engine and then move it up to around 1500 RPM loaded in gear and vary
the speed from idle until you have two hours on the engine. All the foregoing may be
accomplished on the trailer. It is time consuming and tedious but it is the basis for long and
happy engine life. If everything seems to be okay check the timing on #1 & #2 cylinders on a V-
4 or V-6. Use the cylinder with the highest reading and set the timing 2-4 degrees less than the
factory specs. If the spec is 24 degrees BTDC set the engine at 22 degrees. Leave the engine at
this setting for the break-in period. If later you want more power the timing can be advanced to
the factory spec but the engine will live longer if you leave the timing retarded. Don't guess. Use
a timing light and set the timing UNDER LOAD, at FULL ADVANCE! Don't run it there other
than to check the timing.

At this point you can run the boat, cruise at 3000-3500 RPM, periodically giving it short runs up
to full throttle. This should continue until there are ten hours on the engine, then your powerhead
should be broken in. If you follow the outlined procedures you will get better service from your
engine. Be sure that at maximum throttle the engine will turn up to 5500 RPM, the top operating
RPM for most 2 strokes. If it doesn't the propeller should be changed until the engine runs at or
slightly over the rated operating range with a light load. The wrong prop can cause the motor to

OutboardExpert.com
lug, overheat or at the other extreme over rev and destroy all your good work. Be sure to check
and retorque the cylinder head gaskets.

Rebuilt Motor DO's and Don'ts

You must determine the reason the original powerhead failed. If the problem is not identified and
corrected it is almost certain the newly rebuilt powerhead will fail. If a restricted (lean)
carburetion problem caused the original powerhead to fail, the new one will also fail unless the
problem is corrected. Guaranteed!

The most common causes of engine failure are detonation, pre-ignition, and overheating or any
combination thereof. The result of these problems is that the temperature in the combustion
chamber gets too high. As soon as the temperature in the chamber gets higher than normal the
engine begins to run poorly and the damage to the engine begins. Detonation is usually caused
by the air/fuel mixture being lean and the erosion of the piston starts at the edge or outer
diameter of the piston. If the erosion starts in the center of the piston it is probably an ignition
problem. An engine running hot due to deteriorated water pump or cooling system blockage
compounds the problem.

The other common failure mode I see is scuffing and/or cold seizure which occurs mostly in new
or rebuilt engines. When the engine is started, the piston heats up and expands quicker than the
cylinder walls which are liquid cooled. When the engine is broken in and running at the correct
operating temperature it runs with around .002 clearance. Normal human hair is about .003
inches. Once the rings are seated and a glaze forms on the cylinder walls this problem is not
likely to occur. This makes the break in period very critical. The proper break in of a new or
rebuilt powerhead will help insure that you get good value from your investment.

OutboardExpert.com
SERVICE MANUAL Periodic Servicing

SERVICE FUNDAMENTALS
PERIODIC SERVICING
Manv of the troubles related to out· oil (with pump type oil can) into car· 8. Wipe over entire external motor
board' motors will be much easier to bu retor air intake. or intakes , until surface with a ci('an cloth ~oaked in light
repair if noticed before they result in ex· motor is snloking profu sely. Stop motor oiL
tensive damage and sometimes the lack immed iately to prevent burning oil ou t 9. Store in a n upright position in a
of proper servicing is the primary cause of cylinders. This will lubricate and pro· dry, well·ventilated room. To prevent
of failure. The fo ll owi ng serv ice and in· tect internal parts of powerhead while accidental starti ng, Ipave spark plug
spection schedule can be used as a guide. motor is in storage. If motor was last leads disconnected.
If the motor is operated under severe operated in salt water, run it in fresh 10. Remove batten' from boat and
conditions, the intervals should be water before preparing it for storage. keep it charged while' in storage.
shortened. 1. Place motor on a stand in normal
upright position. Remove motor cover . PRE·SEASON PREPARATION
NOTE: This schedule of mld·season 2. Retard throttle all th e wav and
service, off·season storage and pre· disconn ect spark plug leads. Manually 1. Remove. clean, inspect and proper·
season preparations Is taken from the rotate motor flywh eel several t imes to ly gap spark plug>. Replace defective
Marine Service Manual of Recommended draing the water from water pump. plug~. (ese new gaskets and torque
Practices which Is copyrighted by the 3, Drain carburetor fl oat cha mbe r. plugs to manufacturer's recommenda·
Boating Industry Association. Remm'e fuel filter bowl-drain , clean tions.)
and replace fil ter element and gasket. 2. Remove oil lel'cl plug from ge~".
MID·SEASON (OR EVERY 50 4. Clean and lubricate electric starter case and check for proper oil level.
HOURS) drive mechanism. 3. Thoroughly clean and refin ish sur·
5. Compl etely drain and clean fu el faces as requ ired.
1. Drain and flu sh gearcase. Refill to tank . 4. Check battery for full charge a nd
correct level using' manufacturer's 6. Remove propeller and check for clean terminals. Clean and inspect hat-
recommended lubricant. condition and pi lch. Clean and libera lly tery cable connections. Check polarity
2. Remove and clean fuel filter bowl. lubricate propeller shaft. Replace pro· before install ing battery cables. Cover
Replace fuel bowl element. Always use peller driv e pin if bent or worn . Replace cabl e eonneetiuns with grcase to prevent
new fil ter bowl gasket. propeller using new co tter pin or tab corrosion.
3. Clean and reg-ap spark plugs to lock washer . 5. If possible, run motor in test tank
recommended gap. Replace worn or 7. Drain and refill gearcase. using the prior to installing on boat. Cbeck water
burnt spark plugs. (Use new gaskets and manufacturers reco mmended lubrica nt. pump and th ermosta t operation.
torque plugs to manufacturer's recom·
mendations).
4. Check propeller for correct pitch.
Replace if propeller is worn, chipped or
badly bent.
5. . Lubricate all grease fittings, using
manufacturer's recommended lubricant.
6. Check remote control box, cables
and wiring harness .
7. Check steering con trols; lubricate
mechanical steering.
8. Lubricate all carburetor and
magneto linkages with manufactu rer's
recommended lubricant.
9. Adjus t tension on magneto and/or
generator drive belts.
10. Clean and coat bat tery ter'minals
with grease. .
11. Check water pump and ther·
mostat operation.
12. Check breaker points' condition
a nd timing.
13. Check carburetor and ignition
sy nch ronization.
'1 4. Check carburetor adjustment.

OFF·SEASON STORAGE
Operate motor in test tank, or on boat, OutboardExpert.com
at part throttle with shift lever in
neutra l. Rapidly inject rust preventative
Trouble-shooting OUTBOARD MOTOR

SALT WATER CARE Galvanic action is more prevalent in All motors, but especially those used
salt water because of the presence of in calt water, should have an adequate
Motors that are operated in salt water minerals in the water which make, it coverage of approved paint. Paint bonds
require some special care to combat the more effective as a conductor. The ac- well to an anodized aluminum surface.
possibility of corrosion resulting from tion can be hastened by the presence of but is difficult to apply to uncoated
such use. If possible, tilt motor out of stray electric currents, and batteries or aluminum. Use only an approved paint,
water and flush cooling s.,"stem and out- other sources of electricity shoulrl be applied according to instructions.
side of lower unit with fn'sh water im- disconnected when not in use. Some pro-
mediately after each usc. tection is offered by attaching a small WARNING: Most manufacturers do not
block of more susceptible metal in the recommend the use of antifouling paint
water near the part to be protected. Thi s on any part of the motor, Antifouling
small block then becomes the target of paints contain mercury or copper which
galvanic action and is consumed. but the can cause galvaniC corrosion In the
valuable part is spared. presence of aluminum.

TROUBLE·SHOOTING
Intelligent servi(;e is normally divided hie. Some of the points to check may not
into two basic functions: that of deter· be applicable to certain outboard
mining the cause of trouble. and correct- motors.
ing the trouble after cause has been
determined. The cause may be obvious
NOTE: This sequence (items 1 through
in many cases. where broken. worn 01'
Special care is needed If motor Is used in salt
water. damaged parts are apparent. Repair in
2n is taken from the Marine Service
Manual or Recommended Practices which
these cases becomes merely a matter of
is copyrighted by the Boating Industry
renewal and adjustment. 'Many of the
ASSOCiation,
The aluminum-silicon alloys used for performance problems, however. are
outboard motor castings are relatively not so apparent and the first task of the
resistant to corrosion from oxidation but experienced servicc tcehnieian is that of 1. Manual starter rope pulls Qut. but
are very susceptible to r;.Ih'anic action determining the causc. . pawls do not engage.
and the resultant corrosion if un- The experienced se rviceman generally A. Friction spring bent or burred.
protected. develops and follows a l o~cal sequence B. Excess grease on pawls or
Oxidation is the destruction of a useful in trouble-shooting which will most like- spring.
form of metal resulting from a chemical ly lead him quickly to the soU rce of trou- C. Pawls hent or burred.
combination of the clement with oxygen.
Although oxidation can occur under
water. the most favorabl e environment
is the atmosphere under extrem e condi- ,
tions of warmth and humidity. Rust is an
iron oxide and the hest kno;"n example
of oxidation. The oxidation of aluminulll
leaves a white, powdery coating on the
surface of the metal which protects it
from further oxidation, and aluminum
can withstand years of exposure to the
atmosphere without harmful effect.
Brieflv described, galvanic action is an
electric;'1 process where atoms of one "
metal are carried in a solution and
deposited on the surface of a dissimilar
metal. Chrome or nickel plating are con-
trolled forms of galvanic action. Each
metallic element has a particular degree
of susceptibility to galvanic corrosion.
and pure aluminum is second only to
magnesium in this scale. The aluminum
alloys are somewhat less susceptible
than pure metal. and galvanic action can
be effectively stopped by painting or
other surface protection. Aluminum
parts are protected by a process kn own
as anodizing. which deposits a hard . pro-
tective coating of aluminum oxide over
the surface. The anodized surface is im-
pervious to corrosion from any source.
OutboardExpert.com
but is only effective if unbroken. Scrat-
ches or abrasion can expose the un-
protecterl metal. 08W1/0p an orderly procedure when ',ouble-shootlng.
SERVICE MANUAL Trouble-shooting
2. Starter rope does not return. N. Loose, broken wire or frayed C. Leaking gaskets in induction
A. Recoil spring broken or bind· insulation in electrical svstem. system.
ing. O. Reed valves not seating or D. Obstructed fuel passages.
B. Starter housing bent. stuck shut. E. Float level set too low.
C. Loose or missing parts. P. Weak coil or condenser. F. Improperly seated or broken
Q. Faulty gaskets. reeds.
3. Clattering manual starter. R. Cracked distributor cap or G. Fuel pump pressure line rup·
A. Friction spring bent or burred. rotor. tured.
B. Starter housing bent. S. Loose fuel connector. H. Fuel pump (punctured dia·
C. Excess grease on pawls or T. Electronic ignition component phragm), check valves stuck
spring. malfunction. open or closed. fuel lines leak.
D. Dry starter spindle. I. Poor fuel tank pressure (pres·
surized system).
7. Low speed miss or motor won't idle
4. Electric ,tarter inoperative. ,J. Worn or leaking fuel connec·
smoothly and slowly enough.
A. Loose or corroded connections tor.
or ground. A. Too much oil- too little oil.
B. Timing and sychronizing out of
B. Starting circuit safety switch 10. Vibrates excessively or runs rough
adjustment.
open, or out of adjustment. and smokes.
C. Carburetor idle adjustment
C. Under capacity or weak bat· A. Idle or high speed needles set
(mixture leah or rich).
tery or corroded battery ter· too rich.
D. Ignition points improper (gap,
minals. B. Too much oil mixed with gas.
worn or fouled).
D. Faulty starter solenoid. C. Carburetor not synchronized
E. Weak coil or condenser.
E. Moisture in electric starter with ignition properly.
F. Loose or broken ignition wires.
motor. D. Choke not opening properly.
G. Loose or worn magneto plate.
F. Broken or worn brushes in E . Float level too high.
H. Spark plugs (improper gap or
starter motor. F. Air passage to carburetor ob·
dirty).
G. Faulty fields. structed.
I. Head gasket, reed plate gasket
H. Faulty armature. (blown or leaking). G. Bleeder valves or pa,sages
I. Broken wire in harness or con· plugged.
J . Reed valve standing open or
nectar. H. Transom bracket clamps loose
stuck shut.
J. Faulty starter key or push but· K. Plugged crankcase bleeder, on transom .
ton switch. I. Prop out of balance.
check valves. or lines.
K. Worn or frayed insulation.
L. Leaking crankcase halves.
,J. Broken motor mount.
K. Exhaust gases getting inside
M. Leaking crankcase seals (top or
5. Electric starter does not engage but motor cover.
bottom.)
solenoid clicks. N. Exhaust gases returning L. Poor ignition- see number 8.
A. Loose or corroded connections through intake manifold.
or ground. O. Electronic ignition component 11. Runs well, idles well for a short
B. Weak batterv. malfunction. period, then slows down and stops.
C. Faulty starter solenoid. A. Weeds or other debris on lower
D. Broken wire in electric har· unit or propeller.
ness. 8. High speed miss or intermittent B. Insuffi cient cooling water.
E. Loose or stripped post on starter spark. C. Carburetor, fuel pump, filter or
motor. A. Spark plugs improperly gapped screens dirtv .
F. See steps in number 4. or dirty. D. Bleeder valves or passages
B. Loose, leaking or broken igni· plugged.
6. Hard to start or won't start. tion wires. E. Lower unit bind (lack of lubri·
A. Empty gas tank. C. Breaker points (improper gap cation or bent.)
B. Gas tank air vent not open. or dirty; worn cam or cam F. Gas tank air vent not open.
C. Fuel lines kinked or severely follower). G. Not enough oil in gas.
pinched. . D. Weak coil or condenser. H. Combustion chambers and
D. Water or dirt in fuel system. E. Water in fuel. spark plugs fouled, causing
E. Clogged fuel filter or screens. F. Leaking head gasket or ex· preignition.
F. Motor not being choked to start. haust cover gasket. I. Spark plug heat range too high
G. Engine not primed-pump G. Spark plug heat range incor· or too low.
primer system. rect. ,J. Wrong propeller (preignition).
H. Carburetor adjustments too H. Engine improperly timed. K. Slow speed adjustment too rich
lean (not allowing enough fuel I. Carbon or fouled combustion or too lean.
to start engine). chambers.
I. Timing and sychronizing out of ,J. Magneto or distributor poorly 12. Won't start, kicks back, backfires
adjustment. grounded. into lower unit.
J. Manual choke linkage bent- K. Distributor oiler wick bad. A. Spark plug wires rcver,ed.
auto choke out of adjustment. L. Electronic ignition component B. Flywheel key sheared.
K. Spark plugs improperly gap· malfunction. C. D(stributor - belt timing off
ped, dirty or broken. (magneto or battery ignition.)
L. Fuel tank primer inoperative 9. Coughs, spits, slows. D. Timing and synchroni7.ing out
(pressurized system). A. Idle or high speed needles set OutboardExpert.com
of adjustment.
M. Ignition points improperly gap' too lean. E. Reed valves not seating or
ped, burned or dirty. B. Carburetor not synchronized. broken.
Trouble-shooting OUTBOARD MOTOR
13. No acceleration. low top Rpm. E. Ignition timing over advanced E. Manual starter not centered.
A. Improper carburetor adjust· or late. F. Flywheel nut loose.
ments. F. Faulty carburetion and!or faul· G. Flywheel hitting coil heels.
B. Imp1'0per timing and synchro· ty ignition. H. Bent shift rod (vibrating
nization. G. Prop hub slips. ag-ainst exhaust tube).
C. Spark plugs (improper gap or H. Scored cylinders or rings stuck. I. Loose assemblies, bolts or
dirtyl. I. Carbon build up on piston head screws.
D. Ignition system malfunction. at deflector. 22. Generator will not charge.
E. Faulty coil or condenser. 17. Cranks over extremely easy on one A. Batterv condition.
F. Loose, leaking or broken igni· E. Connections loose or dirty.
or more cylinders.
tion wires. C. Drive belt loose or broken.
A. Low compression.
G. Reed valves not properly seated D. Faulty regulator or cutout reo
1. Worn or broken rings.
or broken. 2. Scored cylinder or pistons. lay.
H. Blown head or exhaust cover E. Field fuse or fusible wire in
3. Blown head gasket.
gasket. 4. Loose spark plugs. regulator blown.
I. Weeds on lower unit or pro· 5. Loose head bolts. F. Generator not polarized (de
peller. generators).
6. Crankcase halves improper·
,J. Incorrect pl'Opelier. G. Open generator windings.
Iy sealed.
K. Insufficient oil in gas. H. Worn or sticking brushes
7. Burned piston.
L. Insufficient oil in lower unit. and!or slip rings.
M. Fuel restrictions. 18. Engine won't crank over. I. Faulty rectifier diodes (ac
N. Scored cylinder-stuck rings. A. Manual start lock improperly
O. Marine growth, hooks. rockers adjusted.
generators). •
.J. Faulty ammeter.
or change in load of boat. E. Pistons rusted to cylinder wall.
P. Sticky magneto plate. C. Lower unit gears, prop shaft 23. Low generator ou tpu t and a low
rusted or broken. battery.
Q. Carbon build·up on piston head
at deflector. D. Broken connecting rod, crank· A. High resistance at battery ter·
shaft or drives haft. minals.
14. No acceleration. idles well but when E. Coil heels binding on flywheel. B. High resistance in charging cir·
put to full power dies down. F. Engine improperly assembled. cuit.
A. High or low speed needle set C. Faulty ammeter.
19. Motor overheats. D. Low regulator setting.
too lean.
A. Motor not deep enough in E. Faulty rectifier diodes (ac
B. Dirt or packing behind needles
water. generators).
and seats.
E. Not enough oil in gas or im· F . Faulty generator.
C. High speed nozzle obstructed.
properly mixed. 24. Excessive battery charging.
D. Float level too low.
C. Bad thermostat. A. Regulator set too high.
E. Choke partly closed.
D. Seals or gaskets (burned, B. Regulator contacts stuck.
F. Improper timing and synchro·
cracked or broken). C. Regulator voltage winding open.
nization.
E. Impeller key not in place or D. Regulator improperly grounded .
G. Fuel lines or passages ob·
broken.
structed. E. High resistance in field coil.
F. Plugged water inlet, outlet or
H. Fuel filter obstructed. Fuel F. Regulator improperly mounted.
cavity.
pump not supplying enough 25. Excessive fuel consumption.
G. Obstruction in water passages.
fuel. H. Broken, pinched or leaking A. Hole in fuel pump diaphragm.
I. Not enough oil in gas . B. Deteriorated carburetor gas·
water lines .
.J. Breaker points improperly kets.
I. Improper ignition timing.
gapped or dirty. C. Altered or wrong fixed jets.
J . Motor not assembled properly.
K. Bent gearcase or exhaust tube. K. Shorted heat light wiring. D..Jets improperly adjusted.
L. Bad water pump impeller. E. Carburetor casting porous.
15. Engine runs at high speed only by F. Float level too high.
using hand primer. plate, housing or seal.
G. Loose distributor pulley.
A. Carburetor adjustments. 20. Motor stops suddenly, freezes up.
B. Dirt or packing behind needles 26. Shifter dog jumps.
A. No oil in gas, or no gas. A. Worn shifter dog or worn gear
and seat. E. Insufficient cooling water.
C. Fuel lines or passages ob· dogs.
C. No lubricant in gearcase. B. Worn linkage.
structed. D. Rusted cylinder or crankshaft.
D. Fuel line leaks . C. Remote control adjustment.
E. Bent or broken rod. crank· D. Gearcase loose or sprung.
E. Fuel pump not supplying shaft, drive shaft, prop shaft,
enough fuel. E. Exhaust housing bent.
stuck piston. F. Linkage out of adjustment.
F. Float level too low. F. Bad water pump or plugged
G. Fuel filter obstructed. water passages. 27. Electric shift inoperative or slips.
H. Fuel tank or connector at fault. A. Improper remote control in·
21. Motor knocks excessively. stallation.
16. No power under heavy load. A. Too much or not enough oil in ' B.Faulty coils.
A. Wrong propeller. gas. C. Faulty springs.
B. Weeds or other debris on lower E. Worn or loose bearings. pis' D. Faulty clutch and gear.
unit or propeller. tons, rods or wrists pins. E. Faulty bearings.
C. Breaker points improperly C. Over advanced ignition timing. F. Wrong OutboardExpert.com
lubricant.
gapped or dirty. D. Carbon III combustion cham· G. Loose or sprung gearcase.
D. Stator plate loose. bers and exhaust ports. H. Shorted wiring.
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