Janome 220XT Sewing Machine Instruction Manual
Janome 220XT Sewing Machine Instruction Manual
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INSTRUCTION MANUAL
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WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1 . Do not allow children to play with the machine. T he machine is not intended for use by children or
infirme persons without proper supervision.
Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by
or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owner's manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner's manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it
has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation opening of this sewing
machine and foot controller tree from accumulation of lint, dust and loosen cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine
needle.
1 1 . Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
1 2. Do not use bent needles.
1 3. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as
threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and
the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual.
'et Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant
A National legistlation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer
- for guidance. (European Union only.)
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1 . ESSENTIAL PARTS
Name of Parts . ... . . .
........................ ....................... ............................. ............................ .... ...... . . .. .................... 2
SECTION 2. GETIING READY TO SEW
Extension Table . . . .
.... ............................... ... .............................. .................... ... . ..................... ... .... ... .. . . 3 . .. ........
Standard Accessories . . .. ..
............. .... .. . ....................... .................................. .. .
........................ ....................... 3
Accessories Storage Box . .
................... .................................. ................. ........................... . .. . . 3
. . .....................
Foot Control . . ..
.................................. .................................... ..................... . ............................ ....................... . 4
Operating Instructions . .. .
.......................... ... ............................ ....................................................................... 4
Presser Foot Lifter .. . ....
........................ ........................ ..... ................................................. ... ........................ . . 4
To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot . . . .
... ... .... .................................................. ........................ .. ... .. .... . . . . 4
Changing Needle ..
................................................. . ................................... ..................... . .. . . 5
..................... ..... .
Tricot Stitch .. . .. .. ..... . . .. ....... . .... . . . .. . . .. .. .... . .... . . . . .. . .... .. . . . . . ... . .. . . . .. . . . ... . ... .. .... .... ..... ....... . ... .... . .... ..... . . . . ... ..... ... .. .. . 15
Knit Stitch . . . ..
. . .............. ................................ .. .... . ....................................... .. .. ..... . . .. . .... ................................15
Straight Stretch Stitch .................. .......... .. . .
. . . . . . . . . ........... ....... .............. .......... .. . . .
. . . . . . ........... ....... ................... 16
Sewing on Buttons . . . . .
............... ..... .................................................. ... ..................... ..................................... 17
Buttonhole . ...
....... . . .
............................ ............... .... . .... . . . . .. . .................................................................. ........ . 18
Corded Buttonhole . . ..
.. ........................ ..... . .
.......................... ..... ..................... .. ..
.......................... . 19 .............. . .
Zipper Application . . . . . .
........................ .... ................... .......................... ... .... ................... ..................... .... .... . . . 20
Blind Stitch Hemming ................................................................................................................................... 21
Rolled Hem . . .
.................................................. ..... .............................................. ................................... ....... . 22
SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHING
Shell Tuck . .
........ ................................... ................................................................. ..... . ... ..................... ........ . 23
Stretch Stitch Patterns . . .
................... .... ........... ............. ...................................................... .... ............. .. . . . . . . . 23
Smocking . . . .
....................... .. ............ ............... .... . ..
............... .. ............................. .. . . . .. ............. .... . .. .............. 24
Applique ........ ........................................... ............................. ........................................................................ 24
SECTION 6. CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the Hook . .
..................................... ................................ ........ . ... ........... ...... . 25
Cleaning the Feed Dog .
.......................... ............. ......................................... .... ............................. . . ... ... ....... 25
Sewing Light ............................................................................................ .. ................... . . ... ....... .. .................. 26
Oil the Machine .. ............. .
..................................................... ............................... .............. .. ...................... . . . 26
Troubleshooting .. . .. .................... ......................... ... . ... ............... . . . .
............................ ... ..... ............................ 27
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Standard Accessories
CD Zipper foot
® Hemmer foot
® Sliding buttonhole foot
@) Satin stitch foot
® Overcasting foot
®Bobbins
(J) Set of needles
® Seam ripper
® Screwdriver (large)
® Hem guide
(jJ) Oil
@ Screwdriver (small)
3
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L't �
@ Machine socket
® Machine plug
6
cAUTION:
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Before connecting the power cord, make sure
the voltage and frequency shown on the
machine conform to your electrical power.
Foot Control
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Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
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The harder you press on the control, the faster the
machine runs.
--__
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WARNING :
o not place anything on the foot control,
herwise the machine will run intermittently.
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Operating Instructions:
The symbol "O" of a switch indicates the "off"
position of a switch.
Presser Foot Lifter
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CV Normal up position
® Highest position
To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot
To remove
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L:h cAUTION:
Turn off the power switch when changing a
presser foot.
To attach
Place the presser foot so the pin on the foot lies
just under the groove of the foot holder.
Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in place.
CV Groove
@Pin
4
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Changing Needle
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you and lower the presser foot.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
counterclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
Insert the new needle into the clamp with the flat
side away from you.
When inserting the needle into the clamp, push
it up as far as it will go and tighten the clamp
screw firmly with the screwdriver.
1
Fabrics
----- - --- -------
Thread �
Needl Size Thread and Needle Chart
Light Crepe de Chine, Voile, Fine Silk 9 * In general, fine threads and needles are used
weight Lawn, Organdy, Fine Cotton or for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker threads
Georgette, Fine Synthetic 11
and needles are used for sewing heavy
Tricot Fine Cotton
fabrics. Always test thread and needle size
Covered
on a small piece of fabric which will be used for
Polyester
- -------------- actual sewing.
Medium Linens1 Cotton, Pique, 50 silk 11
weight Serge, Double Knits, 50 to BO Cotton or
• Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
Percale 50 to 60 14
Synthetic
• When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and
Cotton Covered
Polyester
synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED needle.
----
The blue tipped needle effectively prevents
Heavy Denim, Tweed, 50 silk 14
skipped stitches.
weight Gabardine,
Coating, Drapery and 40 to 50 Cotton
Upholstery Fabric 40 to 50 16
• When sewing very fine fabrics, sew over a piece
Synthetic of paper to prevent seam puckering.
Cotton Covered
Polyester
'-
5
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Setting Spool Pins
The spool pins are used for holding the spool of
thread in order to feed thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for stor
age.
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CD Upper thread
@ Hole
® Tangle
l= --
Note:
When using thread which has tendency to
tangle around spool pin, thread through the hole
of spool pin as shown.
The hole should face the thread spool.
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case
Open the hook cover.
CD Hook cover
CD
®
When inserting the bobbin case, place the horn
into the recess of the hook race.
® Horn
6
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Winding the Bobbin
[] DJ Pull the handwheel out.
[2J Draw the thread from spool.
Guide the thread around the bobbin winder
thread guide.
[l] Insert the thread through the hole in the
bobbin from the inside to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.
@] Push it to the right.
!Kl With the free end of the thread held in your
hand, depress the foot control.
Stop the machine when it has made a few turns,
and cut the thread close to the hole in the
bobbin.
[§] Depress the foot control again.
When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the
machine.
Return the bobbin winder spindle to its original
position by moving the spindle to the left, and
cut the thread.
[1J Push the handwheel to the left. (original
position).
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® Right side (Top side) of fabric
©Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
® Thread tension dial
® Setting mark
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[1J Needle thread tension is too tight
When the bobbin thread (bottom thread) will
appear on the right side (top side) of the
fabric, Loosen the needle thread tension by
moving the dial to a lower number.
[1J Needle thread tension is too loose
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When the needle thread (top thread) will
appear on the wrong side (bottom side) of the
need.
Turn the adjusting screw to the right to tighten or,
to the left to loosen the tension.
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9
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Note:
Raise the needle above the fabric when you
turn the pattern selector dial.
0
BH A B C D E F G
A B C D E F G
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" c:::::r " is the recommended setting for buttonhole
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stitching.
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Adjust the dial in the 0.5-4 range when you sew
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the zigzag stitch.
Set the dial at "S.S." to sew the stretch stitch
•
pattern.
If the stretch stitch pattern is not even, turn the
stitch length dial toward "-" to compress it, or "+"
to expand it.
S.S.
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SECTION 3. BASIC SEWING
Q) CV
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Straight Stitch Sewing
A B 14] A, B
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CD Pattern selector:
I I ® Presser foot: Zigzag foot
I I
cp <P ® T hread tension: 2-6
® ® Stitch length: 1 .5-4
• •
A
'/} �
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2
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0 ...
0
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DJ Raise the presser foot and position the fabric
with its edge lining up with a seam guide line
on the needle plate.
Lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the
threads toward the back. Depress the foot
control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line
Jetting the fabric feed by itself.
12
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Using the Seam Guides on the Needle
Plate
The seam guides on the needle plate help you
to measure seam width.
* The numbers indicate the distance between
the center needle position and the guide
line.
Numbers on the
10 15 20 3/8" 4/8" 5/8" 6/8"
needle plate
Q) Guide lines
(?) Cornering guide
® Needle plate
@ Needle plate hole
® Seam width from the center needle position
13
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Zigzag Stitching
CD
CD Pattern selector: c
c ® Presser foot: Zigzag foot
® Thread tension: 2-5
®Stitch length: 0.5-4
• •
A
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Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for
overcasting, sewing on buttons etc.
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®Stitch length: 1 -2
& CAUTION:
Make sure to set the pattern selector at "C",
ll.
otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot
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and break.
14
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Tricot Stitch
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CD @ CD Pattern selector: D
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D @ @ Presser foot: Zigzag foot
@Thread tension: 1--4
@)Stitch length: 0.5--4
• •
Note:
Knit Stitch
CD CD Pattern selector: G
G @ Presser foot: Zigzag foot
@Thread tension: 1--4
� @)Stitch length: S.S.
@)
• •
G ,,
� "'
q 0
� p
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'
8•""'"
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Note:
e careful not to cut the stitches.
15
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Straight Stretch Stitch
G)
G) Pattern selector: A, B
A B
Ill Ill
® Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Ill II! ® Thread tension: 2-6
clP IP ®Stitch length: S.S.
®
• •
16
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Using the Seam Guides on the Needle
Plate
T he seam guides on the needle plate help you
to measure seam width.
*The numbers indicate the distance between
the center needle position and the guide
line.
Numbers on the
10 15 20 3/8" 4/8" 5/8" 6/8"
needle plate
�· ......
CD Guide lines
® Cornering guide
® Needle plate
@) Needle plate hole
® Seam width from the center needle position
,7' Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line
the edge with the 1.6 cm (5/8') seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the
new direction,
® Cornering guide
13
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Zigzag Stitching
CD ®
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CD Pattern selector: c
c ®
I dffi«
® Presser foot: Zigzag foot
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® Thread tension: 2-5
©Stitch length: 0.5-4
©
• •
A
'/) ,...2.--- �
,,....'/>
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u
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/'
0
\ ..
__)
0
'1 g
• '·ss·+
& CAUTION:
Make sure to set the pattern selector at "C",
..
otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot
and break.
14
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CD @ Sewing on Buttons
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c CD Pattern selector: c
I>
C//11r,,,�''
f"..;,
_�
�.,,,-1�
"'
\L ,.
;;.,
I \
6 � "' J
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lTl [2J
.co ITl Adjust the stitch width, and turn the
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handwheel to check if the needle enters into
each hole on the button.
[I] Lower the foot to hold the button in place.
The holes on the button should align with the
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shank.
Make sure to check if the needle enters into
both holes on the button.
Sew about 10 stitches and cut the needle and
bobbin threads, leaving 20 cm (8 ') tail.
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Rolled Hem
CD Pattern selector: A
® Presser foot: Hemmer foot
® Thread tension: 2-6
CD Stitch length: 1 .5-4
• •
ITl ITl Trim off the corner of the fabric 1 .5 cm (3/1 6 ')
by 0.8 cm (5/1 6 ') to avoid a bulkiness of the
hem at the corner.
Fold the fabric edge twice 0.3 cm (1 /8 ') wide
and 6 cm (2 3/8 ') long.
CD Wrong side of the fabric
® 0.5cm
® 0.8 cm
CD Curl of the foot
22
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�
G
�
Shell Tuck
®
�
CD Pattern selector: G
® Presser foot: Satin stitch foot
@) Thread tension: 6-8
• • ®
@) Stitch length: 2 -3
G " <2-----,,
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<"
" 0
f \
,.
<:t
I- 8·""' '"
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'··s·s·+
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23
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CD Smocking
D CD Pattern selector: D
® Presser foot: Zigzag foot
®Thread tension: 1-4
©Stitch length: S.S.
• •
CD c Applique
CD Pattern selector: c
� ® Presser foot:
®Thread tension:
Zigzag foot
1-4
© ©Stitch length: 0.5-1
• •
u.
24
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Lt CAUTION:
Turn off the power switch and/or unplug the
machine before cleaning the feed dog.
To dismantle shuttle race unit:
Raise the needle to its highest position and
open the hook cover.
Open the hinged latch of bobbin case and take it
out of the machine.
Open the shuttle race ring holders and remove
the shuttle race ring.
Remove the shuttle.
* Clean the shuttle race with a brush and a soft
dry cloth.
5 CD Bobbin case
® Shuttle race ring holder
® Shuttle race ring
®Shuttle
®Shuttle race
To assemble shuttle race unit:
Hold the shuttle by the center pin and fit it
carefully back into the shuttle race, forming a
perfect circle with the shuttle driver.
Attach the shuttle race ring making sure the
bottom pin fits into the notch.
Lock the shuttle race ring by turning the holders
back into position. Insert the bobbin case.
@Pin
(/) Notch
Lt CAUTION:
Turn off the power switch and/or unplug the
machine before cleaning the feed dog.
Remove the needle and the presser foot.
Remove the needle plate setscrew and remove
the needle plate.
CD Setscrew
With a brush, clean out dust and lint clogging the
feed dog teeth.
Reset the needle plate.
25
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Sewing Light
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_&WARNING
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The bulb could be HOT. Protect your
fingers when handle it.
CD Screw
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CV Face plate
Q) Hook cover
@ Shuttle race ring
®Shuttle
26
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Troubleshooting
Condition Cause Reference
The needle thread 1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. See Page 8
breaks. 2. The needle thread tension is too tight. See Page 9
3. The needle is bent or blunt See Page 5
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See Page 5
5. The fabric is not being drawn to the back when sewing is finished. See Page 12
6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle. See Page 5
The bobbin thread 1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin case. See Page 12
breaks. 2. Lint has collected in the bobbin case. Clean the bobbin case
3. The bobbin is damaged and doesn't turn smoothly. Exchange bobbin.
Seam puckering 1. The needle thread tension is too tight. See Page 9
2. The machine is not threaded correctly. See Page 8
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn. See Page 5
4. The stitches are too coarse for the fabric being new line sewn. Make the
When sewing extremely light weight materials, place a sheet
•
stitches denser.
of paper underneath the fabric.
Stitches form loops 1. The needle thread tension is too loose. See Page 9
below the work 2. The needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread. See Page 5
The cloth is not 1. The feed dog is packed with lint. See Page 25
feeding smoothly. 2. The stitches are too fine. Make the
stitches coarser.
The machine does 1. The machine is not plugged in. See Page 4
not work. 2. Thread is caught in the shuttle race. See Page 25
3. Handwheel has been disengaged for bobbin winding. See Page 7
The machine does 1. Threads have been caught in hook mechanism. See page 25
not run smoothly 2. The feed dog is packed with lint. See Page 25
and is noisy.
27
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