The 5-step

Facechart Formula

LIZA KONDREVICH
 – face charts*

"the
perfect
balance
between
art & makeup"
 Preface
' T h e 5- St e p F ace ch ar t F or m u la'

Face charts, you see them more and more, they are blank

templates of facial lines that are mainly used by make-up

artists to plan or showcase their looks, and by the major

cosmetics brands to promote their products. But there is

so much more to gain from it these days. Face charts have

been evolving, in recent years, to a whole new level, and

are widely used for training purposes, makeup design, and

even a creative (professional) hobby where makeup and art

enthusiasts can pour their soul and bliss into.

This guide empowers you to get started and combine the best

of 2 worlds: Makeup & Art. The 5-step Facechart Formula

takes away the guess work, the struggle, and enables you to

create beautiful facecharts without buying a lot of stuff.

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Introduction
Hello and welcome! I'm Liza Kondrevich.

As the author of the now legendary 'Facechart

Book' and founder of 'Makeup Designer

Academy™', I often receive questions like:

"How can I easily make beautiful facecharts?"

and "Do you have any useful tips to improve

my face chart skills?"

I understand the challenges of translating

creative makeup ideas into decent-looking

facecharts and the pitfalls that prevent

the results from being what you hoped for.

That's why I created 'The 5-Step Facechart

Formula'. This guide is packed with tips and

tricks to help you make eye-pleasing face

charts in no time!

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The Steps
00 TOOLS AND PRODUCTS................................. 6

01 BUILDING THE SKIN.................................... 10

02 NATURAL LOOKING BROWS........................ 16

03 THE EYE MAKE-UP LOOK.............................. 21

04 REALISTIC LOOKING LASHES....................... 25

05 MATCHING THE LIP LOOK..... ...................... 29

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T O O L S & P R O D U C T S

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 T o o l s
00 & P r o d u c t s

The purpose of this guide is to get you started with as few

products as possible, most of which you probably already

have on hand. I called this chapter step zero, but if I'm being

honest, the right tools and products are worth a chapter when

you decide to move into makeup design. For now I'll keep it as

basic as possible.

You just received one of the most important tools: The facechart template!

Why it is called a tool is because makeup artists and designers use it to improve

their artistry, train, practice, and get better at every level. It is a tool that you can

use once you know how to use it.

Start by printing out your template. Please note that printer paper (which you use

to print forms) will not work for this purpose.

Here you already have tip number 1: Print your new template on decent paper,

suitable for fine art.

Print as large as possible so you have enough space to work on. It is also useful

to have tracing paper or semi-transparent baking paper at hand. Not an absolute

must, but you will quickly get how convenient it is.

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 1.

Here are the tools and products I used for this guide. It doesn't

matter which brands you use, and it's best if you just find some

similar stuff together. As you can see here nothing fancy-smancy I use

myself, let's go through the products together. We start at the top and

go clockwise.

1. These are two self-combined eyeshadow palettes, I have

combined my favorite colors together. Most bright colors are

pressed pigments, because they are nice and vibrant and highly pigmented.

Furthermore, I recommend collecting a few shades of brown, white, cream

6. and black if you have them. 2. Felt-tip pens and paint markers. 3. Powder based
2.
products, which you could normally use for highlighting and contouring.

4. Q-tips, cotton rounds, and makeup applicators. You may have thrown these

away before, but in fact they are super nice tools to use. 5. Brushes for makeup,

from buffing brush to smudger, but make sure they are clean of skin oil.

6. Pencils and fineliners, you probably have them somewhere nearby!

Let's get started with these simple

tools and products! 3.

5. 4.
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B U I L D I N G T H E S K I N

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B U I L D I N G T H E S K I N

The first step in my 5 step formula is building the skin. Actually it is shaping the

human facial features, but that sounds less good. This first step is perhaps the most

important when it comes to realism. We are going to give dimension to our flat

object, the template, by applying optical shadows and light elements with powder.

This creates a shape, of the head in general. In this step we will undertone, contour

and highlight jawline, brow bone, eye sockets, and shape the nose before moving

on to the next step.

Start with your template printed on decent paper. To protect the parts you don't

want to color, make a stencil. Place your tracing or baking paper over your template.

And trace the facial lines with a pencil.

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Cut out the shape and place back the stencil. Make sure it's aligned with your

template. You can tape it if you like.

Use powder and a big buffing brush, and with the color of your choice fill in

everything within the stencil. Go darker in the outer corners and slightly lighter in

the middle. Make circular motions with the brush, layer up gently.

With a smaller brush and light brown eyeshadow, apply the shadow under the

cheekbone, use the same circular motion.

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 When you're satisfied for now, you can start building the nose. Noses are one of the

challenging parts to do for most. With something like an eyeshadow brush, and the

same light brown you used before, start with making c-shaped motions, starting

from where the beginning of the of the eyebrow should be. No straight lines here!

Repeat the same process for the other side. Use the least amount of product possible

to ensure you're don't go too dark. Build up the shading of the nose slowly.

When the nose is done, we're going to do the eye area! Finishing touches

follow in the last step, so don't worry if it doesn't look dimensional.

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 Fill in the iris with anything that

colors. It can be eyeshadow, pencil,

or like I do here a felt-tip pen. For a

simple face chart like this, there's no

need to make hyper realistic eyes.

With an applicator and black

eyeshadow, trace the upper lash line.

You can use a black pencil as well to

make it even more intense and fill

the pupil as well. Later we're going to

draw lashes on it.

With a dark brown eyeshadow and

eyeshadow brush, apply shadow

following the round shapes of the

brow bone. I use stencils to get sharp

lines in the crease. What's important

is to make a circular movement,

again.

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Here you can see the shape of the brow bone. With light brown eyeshadow connect

the part under the eye. Try to make a smooth transition. Makeup applicators are

perfect to blend with precision.

Repeat the steps for the other side, try to achieve symmetry, if necessary turn your

paper for more comfort.

To recreate this beauty look I have in mind, I apply more dark brown to the outer

corners, more shadow, more dimension, and the beauty vibes as desired.
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When you're finished blending

and all looks smooth, pick a clean

applicator and white eyeshadow to

place some highlights in the middle

of the uper eyelid and on the highest

point of the brow bone.

Don't over do the high lights, if you

blend them delicatly highlights look

natural, realistic, and give a realistic

dimensional feeling. With a white

marker, tip some little catchlights in

the pupil. make sure they match, as

both eyes reflect the same light.

This 1st step is almost done, time to

move on to step 2. Just before, check

your work, correct where necessary,

add some shadows or highlights

to your liking. Remove any loose

powder particles with a large brush

or blow them away.

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N AT U R A L L O O K I N G B R O W S

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N A T U R A L L O O K I N G B R O W S

Eyebrows, everyone has them, makeup artists work with them on a daily basis,

they determine the bulk of human facial expression, and yet most of us have no

idea how an eyebrow is built. When it comes to drawing, eyebrows are often the

most challenging, are the last to be applied, and often ruin the artwork by looking

unnatural. Our human brain is used to seeing eyebrows, and when something isn't

right, it gets noticed!

Because brows are essential for the overall look of your face chart, this is step 2.

Let's start with making a stencil to keep things clean and easy up the process. With

transparent tracing or baking paper placed on your facechart, determine the shape

of the brow in outlines.

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 Carefully cut out the shape of your

desire and place the stencil back in

place. As you can see, I've traced a

part of the upper eyelid, this helps to

align the stencil perfectly.

Now, with a cotton round and brown

eye shadow, fill in the stencil. To give

your brow a dimensional look, the tip

is to keep the inner part lighter and

the outer part (or tail) darker. See the

picture below how it should look.

As you can see the tail is slightly

darker, following the round shape

of the human face. When ready, flip

over your stencil and repeat steps for

the other side.

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With a makeup applicator, and dark brown eye shadow, give more dimension to the

tail of the eyebrow, make it a little darker. You can see how much pigment such a

handy little applicator transfers.

Now start drawing the first hairs with a pencil. Draw them lightly, to allow for

corrections. Take the eyebrow on the cover of this guide as an example. A small

guide like this is too short to explain the brow in all detail, but by looking closely

you might see that the hairs grow very differently than you initially thought.

When the direction is determined, go over the pencil lines with a fine liner.

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 Repeat the steps for the other side. Try to achieve symmetry by looking closely at

the brow you just created and mirroring it. Tip for the brows: try to maintain a

realistic density of hairs.

Finish the brow by using a slightly thicker pen to create some bundles of hair here

and there. For this look, that's how it naturally looks in reality. Focus again on the

tail of the brow.

If you're happy with how it looks, let's move on with step number 3!

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T H E E Y E M A K E - U P L O O K

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T H E E Y E M A K E - U P L O O K

The third step in this 5-step formula is the eye look. It doesn't matter whether you

want eyeliner alone or a completely decked out look. For this guide I chose a simple

beauty look with yellow and light purple accents.

Because you have already done the eyebrows, you can perfectly determine how you

want to show your eye makeup on your face chart.

First you work on what you had already built up in step 1. With brown eye shadow

you can accentuate the deeper parts. Make sure your base is satisfactory, with a

small smudging brush you can, for example, work very detailed in the corners.

Oh, here I'm using a warm brown with a red undertone, because that matches with

the look I have in mind.

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 As an accent color, take purple which you apply with an applicator for decent

saturation. Why I use purple as an accent color has to do with color theory, an

essential part in makeup and makeup design.

With the eyeshadow brush blend it out, do you see how subtly this purple color has

been applied? Of course do it according to your desire, but I want to show that it

really doesn't always have to be fierce and present. It's not like that with real life

makeup either.

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Pick up some yellow eyeshadow

with your brush. First dap off the

excess loose powder so that it does

not end up on your artwork. Then

you apply the color. Calmly building

up, layer by layer, and again with a

circular motion.

See how gently it's transitions are?

Facecharting is a great way to

practise those blending skills. Repeat

the same process for the other side

while keeping in mind the position of

the high lights.

Finish the eyelook with a touch of

yellow on the inner corners of the

eye. Apply it with an applicator and

blend out with the eyeshadow brush.

This touch of yellow brings balance

and harmony to this look. Now we

are ready to draw the lashes!!

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R E A L I S T I C L O O K I N G L A S H E S

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R E A L I S T I C L O O K I N G L A S H E S

Lashes are also one of those things that many don't get right. This guide is not here

to give you a complete study on how to make face charts or makeup designs, but

with the tips and explanation of the steps of the process you should at least expect

improvement. The same goes for the lashes!

Common mistakes are:

• The shape of the hair, often too straight, or much too curly.

• The direction of the hairs, unrealistic direction short circuits our brains.

• Density of the hair. In combination with the above, unrealistic hair density often

results in akward looking lashes.

I'm using a thin brush and acrylic paint here, but realized after taking the photos

that not everyone has these items to their disposal. So follow the steps with a black

pencil, thin marker, or fineliner.

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First put the outer and middle hairs, the direction is indicated with the arrows.

Then add hairs, in the outer corners you see more density than the inner corners.

Tip: Where the hair starts to grow is thicker than at the tip. Try to do the same for

a natural effect.

Then, add some hair right next to the first one you already put. This creates both

bundles and natural space between the hairs.

Try to recreate the same structure on the other side, if more comfortable flip over

your paper. Whatever works best for you.

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 Now take a good look at how the under lashes are built up. The direction they grow

to, the length, and how they are placed. Do you see the space between the bundles?

That ensures the realistic effect.

Make some thicker hairs here and there, as if they are sticky together, Try

not to over do the lower ones, they are not the same as upper lashes.

Repeat the steps for the other side and you're done!

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M AT C H I N G T H E L I P L O O K

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 M A T C H I N G
05 T H E L I P L O O K

Lips and lip looks come in all kinds of shapes and styles, for this look I chose a fairly

simple version of a pink red glossy lip. It matches nicely with the rest of the look,

and it looks nice. Lips can be done with all kinds of materials, including lipstick, if

you want. For this look I opted for a base undercoat with marker, supplemented

with eye shadow.

I also usually use stencils for the lips. Trace the lip lines and cut them out,

and put your stencil aside for now as we'll be making the under layer first.

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In this case I want to make a base

layer first, as said. The reason for

this is so that the end result is

nice and vibrant in color. If I only

used eye shadow it wouldn't be so

opaque, and since I want to achieve

that, this technique is perfect!

Take a pen that is well moistened,

a pen that is too dry gives sloppy

stains. Try to make as smooth a

whole as possible within the lines. In

this example I use 2 colors, and I use

the darkest one for the deeper parts.

Then place your stencil back and fill

in the color with a cotton round and

pink red eyeshadow. If you subtly

layer it, you will get a velvety result

where the light and dark of the

bottom layer will still be visible.

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 Touch up the shadows with a darker or brown shade and a makeup applicator

on the lower lip and the shadowed areas of the upper lip. blend it together into a

whole.

To create the glossy effect, you can apply small accents to the higher areas with

a white paint pen or similar, to imitate the reflected light (see the lips on the next

page as a reference for their placement). And her you have the glossy lips!

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 "C r e a te witho ut lim itat i ons
and nev er giv e up o n your
d reams!"

These are basically the 5 steps to make a

beautiful face chart. Of course I didn't explain

everything in detail, which was not the intention

of this 5-step face chart formula, because

Designing Makeup is a complete study in itself.

I hope you've learned something from it, and

that you've become excited (again) to grab

your brushes, eyeshadows and powders more

often and start facecharting. It is not only a

wonderful pastime, in which you can escape

from everyday life for hours, but there is also

a lot of knowledge to be gained, with growth in

makeup and artistic areas to be achieved.

I hope you have become enthusiastic and are

going to experiment. Dive into the rabbit hole

of makeup design! This step has been taken,

and a world can open up for you, where you

can achieve goals you never knew existed, and

create things that exceed your wildest dreams!

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T H E 5 - S T E P F A C E C H A R T F O R M U L A
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