COLD CREAM
AND VANISHING
CREAM
INTRODUCTION
• In USPXVIII ,creams are defined as
“ semisolid emulsions of either oil in water or water in oil type.”
“semisolid emulsions usually medicated, intended for external application.”.
SKIN CARE CREAMS CLASSIFICATION
• According to emulsion type:
1. W/O creams Eg: Cold cream(60-70% oil content)
2. O/W creams Eg: Vanishing cream(15-25% oil content)
Eg - cleansing, foundation, moisturizing
SKIN CARE CREAMS CLASSIFICATION
According to function:
(l) Cold creams
(2) Cleansing creams
(3) Cleansing milks
(4) Cleansing lotions
(5) Vanishing creams
(6) Foundation creams
(7) Emollient creams
(8) Skin conditioning creams
(9) AII purpose creams
(10) Moisturizing creams
VANISHING CREAM
• Vanishing cream gets the name from the fact that it leave no trace when
rubbed on skin
• These are oil in water emulsions that contains large percentages of water
and stearic acid or other oleaginous components.
• After application, the continuous phase evaporates, leaving behind a thin
residue film of the stearic acid.
IDEAL PROPERTIES OF VANISHING CREAMS
1. High melting point
2. Pure whiteness
3. Very little odor and low iodine number
4. Rubbed easily on the skin
FORMULATION INGREDIENTS:VANISHING CREAMS
Stearic acid
• Major component of vanishing cream
• Good quality triple pressed must be selected
• Soap formed in-situ by the reaction between a suitable alkali and
stearic acid determines hardness of the cream.
USE : Governs the consistency of the cream
Humectants
• Glycerol most favored followed by sorbitol and propylene glycol
USE: Prevents excessive drying out of cream
Alkali
Examples are Potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate,
triethanolamine and borax.
Potassium hydroxide is mostly used since makes a cream of fine texture
without excessive harshness.
• Sodium or potassium hydroxide when used alone forms hard cream hence
used always in combination.
• Borax used in combination with potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine to
form white emulsion.
• Carbonates not favoured, liberates CO2 and creams become spongy.
STEARIC ACID
PROVIDES OIL
PHASE AND 20-30%
OF FREE ACID
NEUTRALIZED BY VANISHING
ALKALI CREAM in which oil
phase melts above
body temp and
crystallizes as
invisible form to give
a non greasy and
shiny layer on skin
Emulsifier as
soap from KOH
( IN SITU )
FORMULATION OF VANISHING CREAM
• Ideal formula
Ingredients Quantity (%w/w) Category
Oil Phase
Stearic acid,triple pressed 15.0 %
Cetyl alcohol 0.50 % Emollient, water-absorptive,
and emulsifying properties
Isopropyl myristate 3.00 % Nongreasy emollient
Aqueous Phase
Sodium Hydroxide 0.18 % Alkali
Potassium Hydroxide 0.50 % Alkali
Glycerol 5.0 % Humectant
Water 75.82 % Vehicle
Perfume q.s. Fragrance
Preservative q.s. Antimicrobial
PROCEDURE
1. Dissolvethe sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide in water, add glycerol
and preservative and heat to 80˚C.
2. In another vessel,melt the stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and isopropyl myristate
(oily phase) and heat to 75˚C.
3. Add the alkali solution to the melted oily phase with good agitation.
4. When the mixture has cooled to about 45˚C, add the perfume and continue slow
mixing until cool.
5. Cover and let it stand overnight. Remix briefly next day before packaging.
NOTE:
• The alkali reacts with some of the stearic acid to form a soap which then acts as
emulsifier.
• The polyol (glycerol) prevents loss of moisture.
• Sodium sterate crystals gives pearly shine .
PRODUCTS AVAILABLE IN MARKET
COLD CREAM
It gives emollient ,soothing & cooling effect
It protects and minimizes the effect of weather changes.
It can be used as cleansing cream
It can be used through all the year.
Not suitable for oily skin.
COLD CREAM
• Cold cream is protective to the skin.
• Formula contains Borax and Beeswax.
• It is an emulsion of water in oil (w/o) type.
• Used as moisturizer, makeup remover and cleanser.
• The main principle of cold cream involves slow evaporation of water phase which
leads to cooling sensation.
• Borax , beeswax are used as an emulsifying agent.
• Borax soap is obtained by free acids in the beeswax and borax (sodium
borate).
• The sodium soap obtained gives oil in water (o/w) emulsion.
• On storage, PHASE INVERSION occurs and water
in oil (w/o) emulsion cream is formed and this is often known as
cold cream.
• On application, due to evaporation of water, cold sensation is observed,
hence, it is called as cold cream.
• Oily film remaining on the skin gives emollient action and protection to the
skin.
IDEAL CHARACTERISTICS OF COLD CREAM
• Should have optimum pH (4.6-6).
• Consistency should be optimum
• Should not be sticky
• Should be attractive in appearance
• Penetration through epidermis of skin should be desirable.
• Must be non-irritant and non-inflammatory.
• Should give cooling effects.
FORMULATION INGREDIENTS:COLD CREAM
1. Mineral oil ( liquid paraffin )
2. White beeswax : Thickening agent and emulsifier (Base for the cream)
3. Borax: Used as emulsifier and responsible for the whiteness of cold
cream.
4. Alcohol, glycerin, and lanolin
5. Perfume: Provides Fragrance
• Cold cream was traditionally based on a mixture of natural waxes and
vegetable oils (beeswax and olive oil) stabilized with borax.
• At the turn of the century, mineral oil replaced the more unstable vegetable
oils.
• In a cold cream the proportion of fatty and oily material predominates, but
application to the skin results in a cooling effect which is produced from
slow evaporation of the water contained in the emulsion.
• Replacement of part of the mineral oil with up to 15% of petroleum jelly can
be used to produce different textures and consistencies. Further substitution
with fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate improves the thixotropic
behaviour of the cream, thus improving its spreading properties.
FORMULATION OF COLD CREAM
• Ideal formula
Ingredients Quantity (%w/w) Category
Oil Phase
Mineral Oil (Liquid Paraffin) 45.0 Used as solvent and emollient
Beeswax 16 Thickening agent and emulsifier
Aqueous Phase
Borax 1 Emulsifier and provide
whiteness
Water to 100
Preservative q.s. Antimicrobial
Perfume q.s. Fragrance
PROCEDURE
• Heat the mineral oil and beeswax in a jacketed vessel at 75˚C and
maintain heat.
• In another container, dissolve borax and preservative in water and heat
to 75˚C (Aqueous phase).
• Slowly add this aqueous phase to the mineral oil-beeswax heated oily
phase.
• Cool to 35˚C and add perfume.
PRODUCTS AVAILABLE IN MARKET
USES
• For Vanishing cream For Cold cream
• Used as adhesive for makeup
powders. • Typically used to cleanse the face off
makeup
• Reduces loss of moisture from dry
• Heavily moisturises dry skin.
skin.
• Can also be used as a balm for dry
• Smoothens the skin and keeps it cracked lips.
soft. • It can also be used as a shaving
• Prevents skin from roughening and cream alternative for men.
chapping.
CLEANSING CREAM:
• used to clean make-up, surface grime, oil, and water and oil soluble soil
efficiently, mainly from the face and throat before going to bed.
layers of make-up, dust and sweat remain as coat on the face and do not
let the skin breath, result in:
Clogging the pores and formation of comedons.
Wrinkles and dullness.
FOUNDATION CREAM:
• It is not only hiding the spots
• It also makes the skin smooth so that make-up looks appealing and well-set on the face
• It is also available in many shades & available in liquid form
FACIAL SCRUBS CREAMS
• help clean the surface of the skin by removing the dead skin cells and the
dirt mechanically .
