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37 views17 pagesTheMiddleEast Iraq TravellersGuideTo
Uploaded by
Stig KalmoCopyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
/ 17
| en enter
1 ‘Travel in the Arab World
Travel in the Arab World
ies of the Arab world offer vast scope and
and business traveller. A country’s potent
provision of certain physical facilities and a number of less tangible factors.
Accommodation, catering, entertainment and transport facilities are among
i ties. Less tangible considerations
such as government policy towards tourism, internal politics, the quality of
service offered to tourists and the overall attitude of the indigenous
population, should not be underestimated.
the region, Lebanon is a prime
In terms of the numbers of vi
countries are at very different levels of development. At one extreme are
Egypt, Jordan and Syria which for years have attracted visitors seeking both
business and pleasure. At the other end of the scale are countries such as the
two Yemens and Oman, which attract few visitors from either category.
The three main markets from which the Arab countries draw international
tourists are Europe, North America and the Arab world itself. About half of
Egypt’s tourists are from Europe and North Amet are either on
business trips or tours of the country’s historic sites. The majority of visitors
to Syria and Jordan are Arabs engaged in family and business tourism.
in the Arab world,
attracting the tourist hordes is an alien concept to some of the more
is not
ing
mindful of the precious foreign earnings tourism brings in,
gone all out to attract more and more visitors. Turkey is one of
the most recent to enter the arena and, thanks to vigorous marketing
strategy, is recording the profits of a bumper year.
8
Contents
Travel in the Arab World
Introduction and Acknowledgements
Temperature and Rainfall
Middle East Currency Table
Religion and Culture
Doing Business in the Arab World
Bahrain
Cyprus
Jordan
Kuwait
Lebanon
Oman
Qatar
Saudi Arabia
Syria
Turkey
United Arab Emirates
Yemen Arab Republic
Yemen, People’s Democratic Republic
112
121
132
141
149
163
177
192
204
215 °
Introduction and nineseeueee Temperature and Rainfall
‘This fourth edition of idle East has been Average maximum and minimum diy temperatures ana vera sf for
I fanuaty and July
completely revised and updated, out of the third January July
edition. It is designed to help and ‘Min Rainfall Max “Min Rainfall
the obvious exception of the Middle East’s Bahrain Manama WC Simm
isan area where much pleasure can still be had
For the most part, a region of beauty and tranquillity. Cypras— Nicosia SC 76mm
Despite the discovery of oil and th Egypt Alexandria WC 49mm
followed, there remains a pe Cairo C Sm
Middle East. In Qatar, home of the world’s large Luxor eC Sight
unusual to see a Mercedes limousine pull off the Mersa Matruh SC 53mm
is owner may kneel at the roadside for the sunset prayer. In Saudi Iran Abadan FC 38mm
wealthy businessmen and bankers regularly leave the comfort of Bandar Abbas 13°C mm
joned villas to spend the weekend in a tent in the desert, Isfahan -SC 6mm
returning ~ if only for a short time ~ to the life led for centuries by their Mashad -6C 20mm
forefathers. And, watching the slow progress of a felucca on the Nile, one Tehran PC 45mm
could be in almost any century. Iraq - Baghdad £C 22mm
For those who can find the money and the time I hope this guide will be an Basra FC 36mm
encouragement to explore some of the countries of the Middle East Mosul SC Tm
My thanks go to the many people who assisted in the compi Jordan ‘eC 6mm
book especially to Mr Sami Badr of the Saudi Press Agene!
Kuwait- Kow: WC 2mm
Lebonon—Beirvt WC 188mm
Embassy in London and Sheikh Nasser Al Jaber Al Sabah and his staff at the oman _ Mt .
Ministry of Information in Kuwait. a = fe eae
My acknowledgements go also to the many people who have assisted and I slight
helped in the production of this book, including Rhona Wells and Al Qatar Doha eC 8mm
Saudi Arabia~ Jeddah IC Simm
Riyadh &C Sight
Syria — Damascus 2C Bam
their early encouragement and invaluable overall contribution. rie Darnes a aan
‘Turkey ~ Ankara -#C 32mm
a = es
bul °C 108mm
Pat Lancaster emir @C 110mm
Kars 186 28mm
Trabzon #C 70mm
Van -8C 56mm
UAE 18C 30mm
‘Yemen = Aden 2c 2C Sm
Ma
10 Middle East Currency Table
COUNTRY
Bahrain
Cyprus
Egypt
Tran
Iraq
Jordan
Kuwait
Lebanon
Oman
Qatar
Saudi Arabia
Syria
Turkey
UAE
Yemen AR
Yemen PDR
CURRENCY
£1.00
Dinar 0.6401
Cyprus Pound 0.8235
Egyptian Pound 3.9275
Rial 120.303
Iraqi Dinar 0.5281
Jan. Dinar 0.6410
Kuwaiti Dinar 0.4841
Leb. Pound 670.710
Omani Rial 0.6537
Qatar Riyal 6.1807
Riyal, 6.3692
Syrian Pound 19.0176
Turkish Lira 2,125.29
UAE Dirham 6.2368
‘Yemen Riyal 16.762
‘Yemen Dinar 0.5824
Exchange rates as of October 1988.
VALUE TO VALUE TO
$1.00
0.377
0.485,
2.313
70.85
031
0.377
0,285
395.00
0,385
3.640
3.751
11.20
1,605.00
3.673
9.880
0.343
12
Religion and Culture
Religion and Culture
Islam is the religion of most Araby and is divided into two principal sects,
Sunni and Shia. The Sunni are found in Syria, parts of Lebanon, Egypt,
North Aftica, and in the original homeland, Saudi Arabia and the Gul
States. The Shia are found in Iraq and southern Lebanon. Turks are Sunni,
Iranians mostly Shia, There are also Arab Christians of at least 12 sects
chiefly in Lebanon, though minorities exist in Jordan, Syria, traq and Egypt.
Breakaway sects from Islam have strong links with Zoroastrianism and the
ancient mystery religions. These include the Druze in Lebanon, Syria and
Palestine, the Alawi in the Syrian mountains and the Yezidi in Iraq
The five Pillars of Islam, or basic beliefs, common to both Sunni and Shia
are:
1) The Profession of Faith, by which a person declares himself a Moslem:
“There is no God but God, and Mohammed is the messenger of God.”
2) The Pilgrimage to Mecca, or Hajj, which all believers should go on, if at
all possible, at least once during their lifetime
3) Giving 10% of one’s income to charity, and for the benefit of widows and
orphans.
4) Praying five times a day: dawn, mid-morning, noon, sunset, and before
sleeping
5) Fasting during the month of Ramadan, which means abstaining totally
from food, drink, and tobacco from dawn until sunset. Ramadan is a hnar
month of four weeks, which falls 11 days earlier each year.
Most Moslems observe these at least partially, and the proportion of those
who practise all the tenets of the Faith is probably higher than in most other
faiths, For Islam is a complete way of life: the social and hygienic habits
described in this chapter all stem from Koranic precepts. The position of
‘women is often brought up as a fault in Islam by others: but in Islamic society
women have at least always been able to possess and use their own property
in their own names. Restrictions upon the role of women in public life have
been enforced, but now that education is becoming universal they are
gradually becoming eroded. Polygamy does still exist, but is not encouraged,
It developed as a social institution at a time when men were frequently killed
in battle and left their wives with no protection. The Koran says
categorically: ‘If you fear that you cannot be equal, then marry only one . . .
do not love one to distraction to the prejudice of another whom you keep in
suspense,’ and elsewhere: “You may marry wo, or three, or four, provided
you treat them equally.” .
Domestic customs and personal behaviour
Arab manners and social customs are in some ways much more formal and
3 Religion and Culture
‘The extended rather than the nuclear fami
jere are very few lonely or neglected ald peop! ie, Indeed. there is much
Tespeti for age, and the old qeantaaier ‘or grandmother is head of the family
if'Guests is far more common than in Western society; a guest is
‘everything except privacy. If he wanted that, why would he
tasks, the lady of the
house always attends to does a good deal of
cooking betore getting dressed to go out, or to receive guests for lunch, No
ld ever be seen with her hair in curlers, except by female
and effort is spent by both sexes on clothes and beauty product
results are often spectacular.
Western-style furniture, often of the more omate variety, is now common
in Arab houses, though the traditional reception room, or Dar, with hard
oblong cushions placed around three sides of a large room with a fountain or
brazier in the middle, according to the season, stil exists in the Arab
countries, and is indeed admired for its picturesque qualities and adherence
to tradition. In the same way, some banquets are still offered with the food
placed on cloths on the floor, or on low round copper tables, with the guests
ly hung on the walls; of
carpets are appreciated. But
always been the ci
‘or marble floors with a drain in one comer, so
Religion and Culture
‘The noise level is higher. as is naturat in a society where outdoor living is,
possible for much of the year, and where there is competition with
people and the television. Arabs do not object to transistor radios in p
car horns, of loud conversation. They do, on the other hand, regard as highly
offensive and ill mannered any sitting posture which places the soles of the
feet towards anyone present, It is quite acceptable to sit cross-legged, on a
cushion or on the sofa or a chair, though preferable to remove the shoes first.
Females should, obviously, wear trousers or long skirts in order to do this
indeed any clothes that reveal too much of the female form are to,
be avoided. It is far more comfortable and cooler to wear long sleeved loose
hip-length shirts over trousers, long skirts, or loose k:
‘evant here to say something abot
ips between the sexes. It is generally
the countries of the Levant - Turkey, Syria, Lebanon and Egypt - a
laces for obtai both hashish or marijuana and opium
tthe opinm poppy is cultivated in Turkey, under strict government,
laboratories, and subsequent smuggling into the USA. Tt
is also true that hashish grows in Morocco, Lebanon and Syria, wild, and that
in some remote areas the peasants cultivate it as a cash crop, and si
middlemen who then export it. But itis far easier to obtain the hard drugs in
London or New York than in Beirut or not culturally
acceptable to use them, Has! less difficulty, and young,
people are sometimes tempted to smoke the odd cigaret however.
in all the Arab countries to use, possess, or trade
many Americans and Europeans have ended up in prison
in the western sense does not exist. As university education
becomes more widespread, students may meet on the campus
Involve the two being ajone (
her a8 a proposal of ian
ivorce and re:
Islam marriage is a ci
governed by the Shari'a, and the contract
may be drawn up wi jons which the two parties have agreed
upon, including the the husband's) to ask for divorce
ivorced parents usually go to their father, after the age of five
for a boy and eight for a girl. This tends to keep marriages going that might
otherwise founder, for often a woman her children rather than
. ast, the majority of divorces took place because
the wife could not have children, or the husband could not beget them. If a
45 Religion and Culture
Allsmilesia Oman.
16
Religion and Culture
couple do split up the woman can remarry far more easily if she
burciened with children. The tradition of children belongi
strong that when a young widow wishes to remarry after a decent interva
(one to three years) her deceased husband's parenis may want to keep the
children, and will insist at least on frequent visits. Property distribution is
governed by the Shari'a.
In Egypt, and all the Arab countries to the east, parents, from the time
that their first son is born, are always known by his name, with the prefix
Abu (Father of) or Umm (Mother off) added. This custom seems to have
died out, oF never existe: i it is an extremely
practical one because it does away with the awkwardness of not knowing how
to address people for whom a first-name basis would be too familiar and
surname t00 formal. The equivalent of “Mister” is Sayyid for a Mosl
Khawaja for a Christian; ladies are S: or Sitt, and girls Anissa (for
Miss). After a certai the Arabic equivalent of Ms,
Indeed, with murmurings of Women’s Lib, and the general education and
gradual equality of women, it is sometimes observed that parent
being addressed invariably as Umm Fahid or Abu Hassan (both boys’
names), may sometimes be Umm Leila or Abu Nala, if their first-born is a
girl, or they have only daughters, Other titles have died out; in Egypt there
Used to be beys and pashas, but both the words and the ranks were Turkish
imports. The Arab and Islamic custom holds that no man is better than
another (though some may be richer), and the words Amir (Prince) and
Malik (King) are purely functional. The Arab kings keep no rigid court
protocol and any of their ts have the right of audience, and of
addressing them by their names directly.
‘On the whole, there is a somewhat ambivalent attitude to older customs;
people want the new technological toys and comforts of the West, yet they
value the past too, particularly family and 1 dons. Over recent
years there has been a rekindling of interest in old buildings and artefacts.
After decades of tearing out the old and replacing with new the tide hast
turned and “old” is no jonger necessarily “bad”. Indeed, the magnificent
in Oatar, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia bear witness to a growing
interest in the past.
Food
Several large volumes have been written on Middle Eastern food, which, if
correctly prépared, is a culinary delight. Arab food is spicier and more
strongly flavoured than that of Europe. Most Arabs eat basic: ly Arab food,
with European ‘extras’. Flat unleavened bread flaps (made and sold in
Europe by Greek bakeries as ‘pitta’ bread) are consumed in large quant
chiefly for wrapping around pieces of other foods and eating without
implements. Ri he staple cereal, served with stews, or grilled meat on
skewers; also used are lentils, cracked wheat (burghul) and chick peas
7 Religion and Culture
‘Gulf Daily News
ng scarce, expensive, and
tough, and pork forbidden by Koranic injunction. Chickens, turkeys and
ducks are popular. so is fish (mostly grilled on charcoal) and game. Any
animals or birds must be killed in the Islamic fashion, by cutting the thro:
| the Compassionate)
Pork is forbidden i, as in the Mosaic, law, because pi
unclean feeders, and in a hot country
, sunflower, or peanut
are now considered healthier. Indeed, some modem ideas have now taken
over; fatness is no longer an obligatory sign of prosperity, and fewer
iddle-class men have large paunches 10 i
‘The usual ea 4 substantial breakfast which would consist of
tea or sometimes coffee, bread flaps, black olives, goat cheese, cream or
cottage cheese called labneh which is solidified from laban (yoghurt), eggs
in uice or fruit, Lunch, served at any time between 1.30
3 pm, remembering that in. many Arab countries offices close at 2 pm for
the day (having begun work at 7.
with a meat and vegetable stew, anoth
kufta (minced meat on skewers or bake
kebab. There
then cheeses and fruits. Depending on the formality of the meal, there might
18,
Religion and Culture
be Arabic cakes (baklawa, halwa etc) or an elaborate European-style creamy
dessert, Much esteemed, and usually eaten as an afternoon snack. is rice
pudding, known as riz ma haleeb (rich Ik).
and flavoured with vanilla or orange flower essence. Coffee
at the end of a meal: Arabic coffee in tiny cups, un-sweetened, very strong,
flavoured with cardamon. In traditional families servants pass around the
basin, ewer, and towels, then eau de cologne, and sometimes incense in a
brazier to restore agreeable odours that have nothing 10 do with food. In
more modern households people simply make for the nearest bathroom,
where a large bottle of eau de cologne will always be provided. Most Arabs
use some form of scent.
Tea, whether Indian, Chinese, or mint (in North Africa especially),
normally drunk for breakfast im cups, and throughout 5i
hand : 7 fe t0 Arabic coffee
cups. It is always drunk very sweet, and tea without sugar is something of an
aberration, ig not taken in tea, though some people drink
sweet by itself, in the morning.
Fresh vegetables and fruit are important, and no meal is complete without
salad. Arabs are not by tradition great meat-eaters, originally for economic
reasons, and the commonest types of main dish are peppers or aubergines or
tomatoes, baked with a stuffing of rice, minced meat, raisins und
of yakhmi, a stew with a rich gravy . and okra, beans, or
peas. On special occasions lambs or young goat be roasted whole out
of doors over a charcoal fire: these are known as ouzi or mechoui,
The Arabic equivalents of hors d'oeuvres are known as mezzeb, and
consist of up to 40 small dishes placed on the table at the beginning of a mea
@ house or restaurant. There will be all kinds of pickled vegetables,
and fabbuleh, the famous Lebanese salad now eaten everywhere, This is 4
mixture of parsley, mint, greet onions, burghul and tomatoes, dressed
lemon juice, pepper and salt. Religion and Culture
Then there is hummos, a dip made of chick peas and tahineh, and mtabbal
‘dip of roasted and pound mixed wi -h. Tahinel
thick, creamy sesa
these morsels usually have sharp or spicy sauces. Then there are slices of
various smoked meats, cheese, fried bread, various kinds of muts, and
tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, green peppers, lettuce and apples
customary for the host or hostess to cut up these whole
the pieces to the guests: in a restaurant the person who invites, or who wishes,
to establish his right of paying the bill, does so. He then has a legitimate claim.
to be the host. |
Mezzeh may be served at funch or dinner. as part of a leisurely meal which
may go on for hours. Arak (grape spirit flavoured with aniseed, which turns
white when water is added), or beer is usually drunk with mezzeh; indeed
However,
eating, usually from an brig, a glass or pottery jug with a
which the drinker swallows a stream of water without
jouch the spout. Some can swallow the water without spilling a drop, from a
distance of two feet; it is a trick that has to be learnt
Turkey.
20
Religion and Culture
J : 4
L Q j
Tabbuleh, the salad described earlier, may
usually in spring or carly summer, when vegetables are at their freshest, and
out of doors is pleasant. People invi 7
say ‘We're maki do you cate to join us?” This
fen in the afternoon, and also
lettuce leaves, the lettuce being used to convey the
tabbuleh to the mouth, as a kind of scoop, open sandwiches with cold meat
and cheese, a sweet dish such as mhalibieh (much resembling very sugary
junket), and fruit. Freshly made lemondade, beer, and sometimes tea, are
appropriate drinks.
in Lebanon, where there is an abundance of fruit, people
make their own syrups from fruit juice and sugar, which when
excellent cold drinks. Tut, ot mulberry, is the most frequently fot
many mulberry trees planted at the time when the breeding of
both Syria and Lebanon. Other syrups
orange, rose, pomegranate and quince. A guest a is always
offered a cold drink, or Arabic coffe lass of cold water.
Various jams and jellies are made, quince jelly being the most popular.
Strawberries grow in Lebanon, Egypt, and part of North Africa: they are not
indigenous and are regarded as a great luxury, as jam. Peaches are
common and there are many varieties of citrus fruit; the usual oranges,
lemons, grapefruit, tangerines (known commonly as Yusuf Effendi, or Mt
Joseph), blood oranges, moghrabeh (sweet oranges), uglis (a cross between
2 Religion and Cutture
fruit, bigger than either), sweet lemons, big naval oranges,
oranges for marmalade, Dates grow in Iraq, Saudi Arabia,
the harvest is in September and October. Fresh dates are
quite different from the preserved kind. and there are many vari
Large irregular shaped tomatoes are common everywhere; and most Arabs
prepare their own tomato paste, boiling the fresh tomatoes slowly for hours
out of doors over wood fires. They are gradually rendered down; the paste is
then spread out to dry on wood or metal trays and finally bottled.
fhe common European vegetables are known, though some
used as stuffing, with
yeh are two
lutinous: motokiyeh look: rather
like nettles, green with serrated and pointed leaves, though they do not sting,
Instead they serve as the base of a celebrated Egyptian dish, stewed in
chicken or lamb stock, with the pieces of meat added, and rice, chopped raw
onion, and garlic and coriander sauce served on the side.
‘Onions, cabbage, and cauliflower are all very popular, but considered to
be bad for nursing mothers, because they give the baby indigestion. Cabbage
is normally shredded raw for salad, or the whole leaves are used to wrap a
mixture of rice and minced meat which is then steamed. This stuffed cabbage
is a favourite winter dish, as is cous-cous, a semolina dish which is the
button onions, a few
whole ‘chick peas, and lamb or chicken or sometimes both, are added.
The long leaved crisp cos lettuces are the usual variety found in the Arab
countries, though other kinds do exist. Radishes are small, round, and red,
with a strong flavour. There are several salad plants such
almost. unknown in Europe. Carrots can be black as well
as orange. Turnips are mostly made into pickles.
Spices most used are thyme, rosemary, cumin, cardamon, cinnamon,
nutmeg, and sumac. A common accompaniment to breakfast is powdered
thyme moistened with olive oil into which bread is dipped. Mana ish is also
eaten at breakfast; it consists of a pizza-like dough on which a thyme, mint
and oil mixture is spread. and the whole p ‘a baker's oven, then eaten
hot, Rosemary flavours lamb, cumin any lentil or pulse dish and cardamon
coffee. Cinnamon is powdered on top of rice, and nutmeg put into salads or
sweet dishes. Sumac is sprinkled on fried eggs, as ate pomegranate molasses
(dibis roumane). Orange flower essence and rosewater ate used to flavour
cakes and desserts.
2
Religion and Cutture Doing business in the Middle East
‘Once upon a time the Middle East was regarded as a vast, empty desert
le hope of development. The few oases and coastal
an otherwise arid region excited none but the most adventurous. Today we
know better — or we think we do.
It is ironic that it was because of a war the Middle East became so
prosperous. What followed the conflict of 1973 between the Arab world and
Israel has had repercussions far beyond anything that might have been
imagined
‘When the Arab cil producers increased the price of their crude from an
average of $2 to $6 a barrel (35 US gallons) in October that year they
signalled, unwittingly, their entry into the 20th century.
Each year revenues from oil grew dramatically and national incomes were
being calculated in billions of dollars rather than the
i e mid-seventies, paid for development on a scale the | See OF Te
world had never before seen. This was a
after the Second World War, but building where none had previously Ss
Potrodollars paid for development on scale never before seen
existed
'y aerodromes have become international airports, towns have become He may be late for an appointment, give the impression of not listening,
cities, desert pistes have become six-lane highways. Wherever you looked may not take an immediate decision and will probably take his
something was being built — apartment or office blocks, industrial plants, answering your letters — but be under no
airports, harbours, hotels, factories and, of course, more refineries. The everything that it going on around him. If y.
whole of the Middle East was like a huge construction site. exactly the opposite of what he appears to be doing - or not doing
In the West, meanwhile, with the ever-deepening recession ~ caused, in Rule number two is an obvious one, but often ignored; observe the simple
part, by rising oil prices the once devoid Middle East was seen as salvation. courtesies of the Middle East. A visitor
‘The Arabs wanted to buy anything and every ‘cemed, and the West invespective of the outside temperature, In wi
was only too willing to sell ~ at any price. And this was the West’s first be worn. During the hot summer months,
mistake. unless the meeting is wit ter, but a tic should always be *
‘To put it simply, the West saw the Arab as an immature child with plenty worn,
of pocket money which was burning a hol dishdash; the former helped ‘Handshaking is mandatory on arrival and departure. And the right hand
always be used for either giving or receiving. During a meeting, you
st traded with wariably be offered a drink, normally coffee, and this should be
nowledge that accepted, taken and returned with the right hand, Itis customary to drink at
the customer would pay without too much argument. Because of these least two cups of coffee and if no more is wanted, the returning cup should be
buck’ merchants, most Westerners are now seen by the Arabs as vultures, ly, signifying your refusal.
and not to be trusted; to be used because they have the know-how but to be ‘And whenever in the company of a Moslem, you should never make the
rid_of as soon as a project is finished sole of your foot visib
‘The Arab has learned this the expensive way, but he also learned it The third rule concerns subjects of conversation to be a
quickly. Today, an Arab can beat a Westerner at his own game. And this is East politics, the Arab-Israeli conflict and
rule number one ~ never underestimate an Arab. He has always been a . . s regarding national economic
trader; with the advent of oil riches the rules may have changed but the basies ies if you happen to be in an Arab state
of the game are the same. Which has ties with the Eastern bloc
m4 25 Doing business in the Middfe East
Business is part of the Arab tradit
pidgeons.
Rule number four involves respecting Ramadan, the Moslem month of
fasting, During this period, Moslems are expected to refrain from eating and
visit to the Middle East,
And many expatriate
residents tend to take their annual leave at fe of year.
“These are the general social ground rules, which apply to all the countries
in the Middle East
But how do you score at a bi
the personal approach is vi
with @ commissioned representative or agent, esp
ighbouring Arab country. They much prefer to deal dir
five sent by the company and capable of making on-the-spot
proach should be low-key ~ the hard sell technique simply
does not work in the Middle East
Ifa company is about to do busines the Middle East for the first time it
is advisable to ask for an irrevocable letter of credit rather than a sight draft.
Lis also helpful to quote cost, insurance and freight (CIF) prices in the local
26
Doing business in the Middle East
currency instead of free on board (FOB)
In many Arab countties a local concern may be an importer, wholesaler
and retailer. The same company may also have exclusive distribution rights
for a variety of competing goods. This does not mean, however, that it will
shelve one product in favour of another; all products will be marketed to the
best of its ability.
In the more leit-wing countries, a large number of products may only be
imported by governmental agencies or state appointed companies. (In Libya,
for example, no local company may act as an agent for a product which is
imported by a government purchasing agency or public sector corporation.)
‘No matter how well prepared you are to do business in the Middle East
patience and understanding of the area's culture and way of life is required
above all else. Occasionally, for example, you may turn up for a business
meeting only To Tint that the person you have ao appointment with is
‘enteriai ‘riggs of acquaintances it hig office, "This can be
isconcei ‘oninion practice in Ui Midge East. You must be
adaptable, patient and persevere.
A salesman, who is successful in London, Paris or New York, may be out
of his depth in Doha, Amman or Jeddah, if he tries to operate in the same
ways as he would at home.
Having mastered the business etiquette of the Middle East, you may well
wonder whether the market is still worthwhile commercially.
‘The whole pattern of trade with the region has changed and will continue
to doso, IF the tentative peace between Iran and Irag holds, the international
business community will be reaping the benefits of a massive reconstruction
effort in the not too distant future, When stability is returned to Lebanon, as.
some day it must be, it is to the west, to American and European
conglomerates, that the Lebanese will be looking for the technology to
re-establish themselves in the vital world of business, finance and
communications.
However, in the mai
almost completed th:
day business of wo
. the big boom years are over. Most countries have
infrastructure and are now getting on with the day to
and living. Business with the tegion has entered
the service industries are now taki
, schools and airports in place, the
countries of the Middle East are looking towards the new technology and the
mn of associated skills to operate them as efficiently and effectively as
a lucrative market, and will continue to be for some
time. The past has seen numerous mistakes made, on both sides, But, as the
west has learned more about the Middle East, so have the Arabs learned
more about western ways. It would be encouraging to think this knowledge
will not be wasted and that the many business relationships forged over the
past couple of decades could pave the way for greater understanding between
the two camps in the future
2 Iran
of the Kuhe Rahmat. Darius the Great
Morghab, capit
Khuzistan
‘The scene of early
dating back to 8000 B
several archaeological
interest. Haft Tapeh,
includes more than’ a dozen_but
mounds and the remains of the Elamite
city of Tikni (1500 BC). Choga Zanbil has.
the remains of an important religious
centre dating back
Caspian Coast
“The coast has 2 lush sub-tropical climate
and vegetation and is popular with Iran’s
fowa holidaymakers. The main resorts are
Ramsar, Babolsar, Nowshabr and Bandar
Khorasan
A bage province in the east of
stretching between the Elbure mow
and the Great Kevir desert, Khorasan
menns ‘the land of the rising Sun’. Tt was
from here that Persian culture
central Asia a
‘great revival
learning in th
era. The cities of Toos and Neishabur
became centres of calligraphy, poetry,
Philosophy and
“Mashad is today the most populous city
in Khorasan. Itused to be a crossroads of
caravan traffic on the Silk Route to
88
the Shab up to four million
tourists visited the city and
year.
“The courtyards, mosques.
ancient
Omar Khayyam, poet, mathematician
and astronomer. His tomb there was once
4 principal touris, mn
‘Toos, 30 km north-east of Mashad, is
passing many historic ruins,
shrines and mosques
Kerman
In the southera desert region, the city of
Kerman was founded by the Sassanid
‘Ardashir I. Turks and Mongols
mosques and wor
a fine shady garden and 2
citadel said to have been
‘Ardashir,
‘Area: 438,466 sq km.
Populati
Capital; Baghdad
89) Iraq
Before the outbreak of war with Iran in 1980, Iraq had plans to launch an
of being a major Middle East tourist destination. However, the war with Iran
put paid to those plans, Hopes for tourism and other revenue earning
projects are largely dependent on the success of the truce agreed with Iran in
July 1988,
Cradle of civilisation
Traq is a country of contrasts, both in its landseape ~ with hills, mountains,
deserts and marshes - and its people, who are ethnically and rel
diverse. A relatively rich country with a long, chequered history, Iraq is,
series of influences
boasts the remains
of the reat
Considerable trouble is taken to preserve and display to advantage the
historical remains of these past cultures, most of which are accessible by road
on rail.
‘The central feature of [raq is its two major rivers, the Tigris and the
‘Euphrates ~ its ancient name of Mespotamia is Greek for ‘land between the
ers’. Yet although these rivers traverse the length of Iraq, from the
ish and Syrian borders in the north to the Gulf in the South, it is a
country of contrasting scenery with distinctly different regions.
‘The north-east is a mountainous region ~ the highest peak, the Hasarost,
being 4000 m. This is almost a temperate zone with abundant rainfall and
snow in winter. The lower slopes of the mountains are cultivated to grow
fruit, vegetables and tobacco.
is area is inhabited predominantly by Kurds who const
the population of Iraq. They have preserved their own distinctive way of
life. The area also includes small numbers of Assyrians (about 40,000) who
speak a form of Syriac, Yazidis (65,000) who also have their own language
and Turkomans (about 100,000) who speak a Turkish dialect. The Assyrians
live mainly in the foothills of the mountains where the rainfall is less. With
the help of irrigation, however, they produce cereals as well as vegetables.
The west of Iraq is a sparsely populated desert and semi-desert zone where
ing off their herds of camels, goats and sheep.
ind summers are very hot. In places the under!
rock protrudes through the sand and scrub and itis from this that present-
