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Baluchari Motifs

The Baluchari sari originated in Murshidabad, West Bengal and has been granted geographical indication status. It takes weavers up to two weeks to hand weave the intricate motifs on the pallu using traditional jala looms or modern jacquard techniques. The motifs carry significant socio-cultural meaning and traditions, initially depicting courtly scenes from the lives of Nawabs but now focusing on Hindu religious texts and folktales after being revived for wear by upper-class Brahmin women.

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106 views2 pages

Baluchari Motifs

The Baluchari sari originated in Murshidabad, West Bengal and has been granted geographical indication status. It takes weavers up to two weeks to hand weave the intricate motifs on the pallu using traditional jala looms or modern jacquard techniques. The motifs carry significant socio-cultural meaning and traditions, initially depicting courtly scenes from the lives of Nawabs but now focusing on Hindu religious texts and folktales after being revived for wear by upper-class Brahmin women.

Uploaded by

nikkiiitttaaa
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© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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The Motifs of the Baluchari Sarees

A geographical indication (GI) is a name or sign used on products which correspond to


a specific geographical location or origin. The use of a geographical indication may act
as a certification that the product possesses certain qualities, is made according to
traditional methods or enjoys a certain reputation, due to its geographical origin.

The Baluchari sari has been granted the status of geographical indication in India. This
saree originated in Murshidabad but is presently woven in Bishnupur in West Bengal.

What makes this traditional silk saree different is the socio-cultural motif it carries on its
pallu. Weaving the designs or motifs on the pallu of these traditional silks took as much
as 16-18 weeks before the introduction of jacquard weaving and presently take up to two
weeks to weave.

When the sarees were woven in Murshidabad, they used traditional jala looms. Jala is
the prototype design, making which was an elaborate and intricate process. During the
revival of the baluchari, artist Subha Thakur introduced the jacquard technique of
weaving where the design is made on cards after being drawn on graph paper.
Weaving Baluchari through these stitched board designs can take as long as two weeks
to make, but they are not as intricate as the designs of jala woven Baluchari.

The motifs used have immense socio-cultural significance, which is what makes the
saris so different and priceless. Before the revival of these saris, they were
commissioned by the first Nawab of Bengal and contained courtly scenes of revelry -
with men and women in repose smoking from hookahs and having feasts.

As the weavers during that era sold their skills for patronage, the sarees were based on
themes related to the Nawab’s life. This is also where the minute details became a ritual.
Each noble would be identifiable in the scenes, the dresses, carpets chairs, and thrones
would all be historically accurate.

The best weavers would even sign their names in their saree designs like on a canvas,
and owning these pieces, therefore, is a bit like owning art.
The weight of that tradition carried forward into the revival of the Baluchari post-
independence. After its revival, the Baluchari was traditionally worn by upper-class
Brahmin women during important religious festivals. The transformation in the motifs
reflects this change of patronage. Now, these heavy silks have motifs from traditional
Hindu religious texts and folk-tales. The most commonly drawn scenes are from the
Mahabharata and the Ramayana. One of the most popular type of Baluchari designs is a
scene from the Bhagvat Gita, with Krishna and Arjun on the chariot on their way to the
battlefield.

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