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Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor
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In this article you will find out about the MAP sensors:
How does a MAP sensor work?
Why do MAP sensors fail?
What to look out for in a failing MAP sensor
Common MAP sensor fault codes
How to troubleshoot a MAP sensor
How to replace a faulty MAP sensor
Typically found in fuel injected engines, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor is one of the sensors an engine control module (ECM) uses to calculate
fuel injection for optimal air-fuel ratio by continuously monitoring intake
manifold pressure information. More commonly a mass airflow (MAF) sensor is
used in place of a MAP sensor, however, turbocharged engines will typically
use both a MAP and a MAF sensor. The MAP sensor also provides a vital role
in helping the ECM determine when the ignition should occur under varying
engine load conditions.
Whichever sensor your engine uses, the ECM will not be able to optimize fuel
injection without accurate air mass information from a working sensor. And
poor air-fuel ratio at the very least will cause performance issues and
premature engine wear. A MAP sensor failure can be difficult to diagnose, but
with the help from Delphi, we can explain what causes it, what to look out for,
and how to replace it if it fails.
How does a MAP sensor work?
The MAP sensor is typically located on the intake manifold, either next to or on
the throttle body itself. (On a forced-induction engine, the MAP sensor can be
found on the intake tract before the turbo.) Inside the MAP sensor is a sealed
chamber that either has a vacuum or a controlled pressure that is calibrated
for the engine. Dividing the sensor vacuum and the vacuum from the intake
manifold is a flexible silicon wafer (a.k.a. ‘chip’) with a current running through
it.
The MAP sensor performs ‘double duty’ as a barometric pressure sensor as
soon as the key is turned on. With the key turned on (prior to the engine
starting) there is no vacuum in the engine applied to the MAP sensor therefore
it’s signal to the ECM becomes a baro reading helpful in determining air
density. When you start the engine, pressure in the intake manifold decreases
creating a vacuum that is applied to the MAP sensor. When you press on the
gas accelerator pedal, the pressure in the intake manifold increases, resulting
in less vacuum. The differences in pressure will flex the chip upward into the
sealed chamber, causing a resistance change to the voltage, which in turn tells
the ECU to inject more fuel into the engine. When the accelerator pedal is
released, the pressure in the intake manifold decreases, flexing the clip back to
its idle state.
The ECU combines the manifold pressure readings from the MAP sensor with
data coming from the IAT (intake air temperature), ECT (Engine Coolant
Temperature) sensor, baro reading and engine speed (RPM) to calculate air
density and accurately determine the engine's air mass flow rate for optimal
air-fuel ratio.
Why do MAP sensors fail?
Like most electric sensors, MAP sensors are sensitive to contamination. If the
map sensor uses a hose, the hose can become clogged or leak and unable to
read pressure changes. In some cases, extreme vibrations from driving can
loosen its connections and cause external damage. Electrical connectors can
also melt or crack from overheating due to close proximity to the engine. In
either of these scenarios, the MAP sensor will need to be replaced.
What to look out for in a failing MAP sensor
A faulty MAP sensor will affect an engine's air-fuel ratio. If the ratio is
incorrect, ignition inside the engine will occur at an improper time in the
combustion cycle. If severe pre-detonation continues over an extended time,
the internal parts of the engine (such as pistons, rods, rod bearings) will
become damaged and eventually lead to catastrophic failure. Look for these
warning signs:
Rich air-fuel ratio: Look for rough idle, poor fuel economy, slow
acceleration and a strong smell of gasoline (especially at idle)
Lean air-fuel ratio: Look for surging, stalling, lack of power,
hesitation on acceleration, backfiring through the intake, and
overheating
Detonation and misfire
Failed emissions test
Check engine light
A rebuilt engine is much more of a hassle than replacing a sensor, so if your
engine is experiencing any of the symptoms above, consider troubleshooting
your MAP sensor.
Common MAP sensor fault codes
Here is a list of codes that are associated with the MAP sensor to
look for if your check engine light has turned on:
P0068: MAP/MAF - Throttle Position Correlation
P0069: Manifold Absolute Pressure - Barometric Pressure
Correlation
P0105: MAP Circuit Malfunction
P0106: MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance
Problem
P0107: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low
Input
P0108: MAP Pressure Circuit High Input
P0109: MAP / Baro Pressure Circuit Intermittent
P1106: MAP/BARO Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P1107: Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
Note: Sometimes different sensors or other faulty parts can cause these codes
to set. Even if your engine is experiencing the symptoms listed above and is
firing one or more of the OBD-II codes listed, it is recommended to test the
MAP sensor to confirm it is faulty.
How to troubleshoot a MAP sensor
Before any tests, inspect the physical appearance of the MAP sensor. Begin by
checking the connector and wiring for any damage, such as melted or cracked
wires, and confirm there are no loose connections. Disconnect the sensor and
inspect the pins; they should be straight and clean with no signs of corrosion
or bending. Next, inspect the hose (if applicable) connecting the sensor to the
intake manifold for any signs of damage and that it has a tight connection to
the sensor. Lastly, take a look inside the hose to make sure it is free of
contamination.
If everything passes physical inspection, you can test the MAP sensor using a
digital multimeter set to 20V and a vacuum pump.
1 With the battery on and engine off, connect the multimeter ground
to the negative battery terminal and run a quick plausibility by
checking the voltage of the battery. It should be around 12.6 volts.
2 Consult the manufacturer’s service manual to identify the signal,
ground, and 5-volt reference and back-probe the wires.
3 Turn the ignition switch on without starting the engine. The
multimeter should (typically) display a voltage between 4.5 to 5
volts for the 5-volt reference, a steady 0 volts for the ground wire,
and between 0.5 and 1.5 volts for the signal wire on non turbo
applications and between 2.0 and 3.0 for turbo applications. Consult
OEM factory service information for the exact specs on your vehicle.
4 Start the engine with the signal wire back-probed. The multimeter
should display a voltage between .5 to 1.5 volts at sea level on non
turbo charged vehicles and 2.0 to 2.5 volts on turbocharged models.
5 Turn the engine off but keep the ignition on.
6 Under the hood, disconnect the MAP sensor from the intake only.
7 Connect a hand vacuum pump and note the current voltage from the
signal wire.
8 Increase the vacuum on the sensor using the vacuum pump.
9 The voltage should steadily drop as the vacuum increases.
If your voltage differs greatly on either test or the voltage change is erratic,
the MAP sensor is faulty and will need to be replaced.
How to replace a faulty MAP sensor
Replacing a bad MAP sensor varies by vehicle, so please consult the
manufacturer’s service manual for instructions for any specific instructions.
Once the faulty sensor has been removed, it’s a straight forward installation for
the new part.
1 Locate the MAP sensor on the intake manifold, either next to or on
the throttle body itself, or on the intake manifold.
2 Remove any screws or bolts holding the sensor in place.
3 Disconnect the electrical connector. Note: Do not force removal as
the connector may contain a locking tab that may need to be
removed prior to unlatching the connector from the sensor.
4 If applicable, detach the vacuum hose from the sensor. Note: It is
recommended to replace the vacuum hose with a new hose when
replacing the sensor.
5 Compare the new and old sensors.
6 If applicable, reconnect the vacuum hose.
7 Reconnect the sensor electrical connector.
8 Reinstall any screws or bolts that hold the sensor in place.
9 Double-check all connections to make sure everything is secured.
Note: Depending on the vehicle and if a trouble code was set, a diagnostic tool
may be required to reset the check engine light.
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