WEFT KNITT DESIGN

Knitting: Knitting is a process of manufacturing a fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarns.

The two main forms of knitting technology are
 weft knitting
 warp knitting

Weft knitting: weft knitting is a method of forming a fabric by knitting means in which the
loops are made in a horizontal way from a single yarn and intermeshing of loops takes place in a
circular or flat form on a course-wise basis. Weft knitted fabrics is two types. There are
 Single jersey fabrics
 Double jersey fabrics

Single jersey fabrics: the simplest and the most widely used weft-knit fabric is ‘jersey’ or
‘plain’ knit fabric. It consist of face loop stitches only on one side and back loop on another side.
Single jersey produces by one set of needles. Single jersey are such as plain jersey. Polo pique,
single lacoste etc.

Double jersey fabrics: These fabrics are most widely used as weft-knit fabric. It consist of face
loop and back loop on same side. Double jersey produces by two or four set of needles. Double
jersey is such as rib fabric, interlock fabric etc.

Features of modern circular knitting machine:

Some of the features of a modern circular fabric producing machine that ensure that high quality
fabric is knitted at speed with the minimum of supervision are given below: -
1. Stop motion: The top and bottom stop motions are spring loaded yarn supports that pivot
downwards when the yarn end breaks or its tension is increased. This action releases the
excess yarn to the feeder. Thus, preventing a press-off, and simultaneously completes a
circuit which stops the machine and illuminates an indicator warning light.

2. Various detectors: various spring-loaded detectors points are carefully positioned around
the cylinder to their particular function. A pointer is tripped to stop the machine by a fault
or malfunctioning element such as a yarn slub, fabric lump, needle head, latch spoon etc.

3. Positive feeder: The tape positive feed provides three different speeds (course lengths)
and is driven and can be adjusted from the drive arrangement.

4. Cam system: The cylinder needle cam system for each feed is contained in a single
replaceable section and having an exterior adjustment for the stitch cam side.

5. Lubrication: These circular machines have automatic lubrication system which provides
smooth function of all parts of this machine.

6. Operation: It has easy operation system like start, stop, inching button, touch screen
operation, automatic calculation, etc.
 7. Winding: The cam driven fabric winding down mechanism, which revolves with the
fabric tube.
8. Counters: The revolution counters for each of the three shifts and a pre-set counter for
stopping the machine on completion of a specific fabric length (in courses).

9. Creel: There have top and side creel facilities. So, it is easier to adjust to a place for
producing knitted fabrics by a suitable creel.

10. Lint blower: Lint blower reduces the incidence of knitted-in lint slubs, to improve quality
when using open-end spun yarns. It also cross-contamination by fibres from other
machines.

Decoration or ornamentation of plain knit or single jersey fabrics:

A single jersey fabric is ornamented without deviating from the true principles of plain structure
as follows:
1. The yarn varies in color, raw material, types of construction and in thickness. As the
fabric consists of yarn and yarn is made up of fibres or filaments the ornamentation can
start from the fibre, filament stages. Fibre dyeing, yarn dyeing, fabric dyeing are some of
the means by which attractive colors can be provided to fibres, yarns, filaments or fabrics
to enhance the beauty of the fabric.

2. Threads of different colors are combined in stripe form. If different dyed or contrasting
colors are used at different feeds by supplying packages of colored yarn on a multi-feed
machine of a single jersey structure, a variety of horizontal stripes can be obtained on the
surface of the knitted fabric. For casual T-shirt garments such horizontal colored stripes
are commonly used.

3. By using fancy yarns, instead of simple regular single yarn, fancy yarn such as slub,
mélange yarn etc can be carefully knitted in the fabric to give some interesting results.

4. By using different twisted yarns (such as hard twisted yarn is produced crepon effect). In
staple fibre yarns, twist is given to a group of fibres in S or Z direction to form the yarn.
If some courses are knitted with S-twist followed by some courses of Z-twist then a zig-
zag path of wale lines is created on the fabric surface.

5. In plaited single-jersey knit fabric the characteristics of one yarn are visible on the
surface composed of the face loop stitches whilst the characteristics of another yarn are
visible on the reverse surface composed of the back stitches. Sometimes back side is
considered as face side, if colored or fancy yarn pattern appears attractive from the
reverse side. It is common practice for sweater.

6. By using extremely fine gauge for finer yarn or coarse gauge (sweater) for coarser yarn.
 7. For children garments two or four color bright prints of animals, birds or some letters or
funny messages are printed which attract the customers. For knit good transfer printing is
popular, although block printing is used.

Single Jersey Derivatives

The structural modifications are used to a very great extent in designing plain-knit structures by
modifying the order of knitting. The plain knit structures can be modified with the following
alternatives.
 Knit loop and Miss Loop
 Knit Loop and tuck loop
 Knit Loop, Miss Loop and tuck Loop.
Cross miss. Birds eye

Weft Lock knit. Single Cross tuck:

Double cross Tuck / Polo pique: Fred perry / Single lacoste:

Double Lacoste: Twill effect:

Rib Derivatives:

Half Cardigan Full Cardigan

Milano Rib Half Milano Rib Roma Rib

RR
Interlock Derivatives
CHAIN NOTATION:

4 course 4 feeder 4 cam box design

4 wales 4 track cam system
CAM ARRANGMENT:
Feeder -1 Feeder-2 Feeder -3 Feeder -4
(cam box- (cam box- (cam box-3) (cam box-4)
1) 2)
K M T K
K K M K
K K K M
M T K K

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT:
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