Midnight Garden Quilt
Fabric Requirements
Blue Red
Fabric 1 1/3 yard
Cut five strips 1¾" x WOF.
3421-005 3419-004
Fabric 2 5/8 yard
Cut ten strips 1¾" x WOF.
3417-002 3421-009
Fabric 3 1/3 yard
Cut five strips 1¾" x WOF.
3418-001 3418-005
Fabric 4 2/3 yard
Cut eleven strips 1¾" x WOF.
3418-003 3418-003
Fabric 5 1/3 yard
Cut five strips 1¾" x WOF.
3417-006 3417-006
Fabric 6 1 yard
Includes binding.
9410-14 (P#48) 9410-14 (P#48) See pattern.
Fabric 7 1 yard
Cut seven strips 4¼" x WOF.
3420-002 3420-004
Fabric 8 17/8 yards
See pattern.
3417-003 3417-003
Fabric 9 3¾ yards
See pattern.
3415-002 3415-004
Finishes - 69" square
Backing - 4¼ yards; Fabric 7 suggested
Pattern assumes basic quiltmaking and is suitable for the intermediate quilter and beyond. Read the entire pattern before
beginning. All seam allowances are ¼". Press seams after sewing. WOF = width of fabric (assumes 40"); LOF = length of fabric.
Step 1: Make Templates
Follow the instructions on page 4 to make the templates. Note on Cutting Border Print Patches
Place the template on the fabric, positioning the mirror line
Step 2: Cut Fabrics in the center of a mirror image motif, and aligning the
Follow the cutting instructions on the back cover for each fab- dashed sewing line that’s under the grainline arrow just
ric, then cut the following. below the bottom of the wide stripe. Draw a portion of the
design motif from the fabric onto the template. Mark around
Fabric 6. This fabric is used for the blocks and the binding. the template, then reposition the template on the same
The yardage allows for bias or straight-grain binding using motif elsewhere on the fabric. After marking the required
strips cut up to 2½" wide; choose one of the following. For number of patches, cut them out on the marked lines.
bias binding, cut a 28" square; then cut six strips measuring
1¾" x LOF (about 36") for the blocks. For straight grain bind- To mark the two different designs, use two colors on the
ing, cut eight strips your preferred binding width (up to 2½") x same template or make a second template.
the WOF; then cut six strips 1¾" x WOF for the blocks.
Fabric 7. Using Template A, cut a total of 128 triangles from
the 4¼" strips. (Each strip yields at least 20.)
Fabric 8. Border 2 - From the LOF, cut four strips each 2½" wide.
Blocks - From the LOF, cut four strips each 4¼" wide.
Using Template A, cut a total of 128 triangles. (Each strip
yields about 32.)
Fabric 9 (Border Print).
This fabric has six wide and seven narrow design stripes, sep-
arated by a solid area used for seam allowances (see Diagram
1, below.)
B1
Narrow
Seam
Allowance
Wide
B2
Diagram 1. The design stripes are separated by fabric used for seam
allowances.
Borders 1 & 3. Cut through the middle of the seam allowance
areas, separating the wide and narrow stripes. Cut four narrow B1 B2
stripes each 62" long (Border 1). Cut one wide stripe 85" long Diagram 2. Template B is used to cut two different designs from
(Border 3). Three additional, identical 85" wide stripes are Fabric 9.
required for Border 3. To cut the next identical piece, place
the 85" stripe on top of a second wide stripe, adjusting the top From the remaining wide stripes, and referring to the Note on
piece so that the fabric designs on the two pieces match. Cut Cutting Border Print Patches (above), use Template B to cut
the bottom piece. Repeat for two additional wide stripes (a 32 of one design (B1) and 32 of the second (B2). Keep the two
total of four). sets of triangles separate.
If necessary, trim the seam allowance on the long sides of After cutting all the patches, transfer the dots from the tem-
each wide and narrow stripe to ¼". (All cuts are oversized and plates to the wrong side of the fabric. This step is very
will be trimmed later.) important to ensure the patches will be sewn together easily
and accurately in Step 4.
©2017, RJR Fabrics Page 1
Step 3: Make & Cut the Strip-Sets Step 4: Make the Diamond Units
The center star is made from strip-pieced diamond units. Sew Sew together the strip-set segments made in Step 3 as
together the fabric strips as illustrated, offsetting the top strip illustrated below, making 64 each of D1/3 and D4/6.
1¼" to the left as illustrated below.
F3 F2 F5 F4
(Note: if you are hand-piecing the project, do not sew the
strips together, and use Template C to cut 64 of Fabrics 1, 3,
5 and 6, and 128 of Fabrics 2 and 4.) F2 F1 F4 F6
D1/3 D4/6
*
Fabric 3
1¼" When sewing the strip-set
Fabric 2
segments together into
Make five strip-sets. diamond units:
• match and pin the center
Fabric 2 seams ¼" from the raw
1¼" Fabric 1
* edges (marked with dot in
illustration)
Make five strip-sets.
• note that the sharp
corners will extend
Fabric 5 beyond the edges of the
1¼" Fabric 4 other segment (marked
with *)
Make five strip-sets.
On the wrong side of the fabric,
mark seam intersection
Fabric 4 dots at the corners of each
1¼" Fabric 6 of the diamond units using Wrong Side
Template C. Alternatively, to find of Fabric
If Fabric 6 is cut from the WOF (approx. 40), make five strip- the positions without the
sets; if it is cut from the LOF (approx. 36"), make six strip-sets. template, mark short lines ¼" in
from each raw edge (see circled
example).
Next, cut the strips into segments: as illustrated in Diagram 3,
align the 45°line of a quilter’s ruler along the long edge of a Step 5: Make the Blocks
strip-set and trim off the uneven end. Shift the ruler along the At all steps, pin before sewing, matching the seam intersection
strip-set, maintaining the 45°angle, and cut each segment dots and any seams. Instructions are for one block. Repeat to
1¾" wide. make a total of sixteen blocks.
Cut 64 segments of each fabric combination. a) Sew the patches and units together as illustrated below,
matching the seam intersection dots. Make four of each.
"
1¾
45° 7A 7A
Diagram 3. Cut 64
segments, each 1¾" wide,
from each fabric combination. D1/3
8A 8A
D4/6
©2017, RJR Fabrics Page 2
b) Sew together one of each of the units made in (a). Repeat Step 6: Assemble the Quilt Top
to make a total of four. Next sew two of the pairs together to Referring to the quilt image on the pattern cover as necessary,
make a half-star; repeat with the remaining pairs. Lastly, sew complete the quilt top as follows.
the two half-stars together.
Arrange the blocks on a design surface in four rows of four
blocks each. Starting with the first row, rotate the blocks as
required so that the Fabric 9 corner triangles that meet match
each other. In the second row, rotate the first block so that the
corner triangles match the design of the triangles in the row
above. Repeat for the blocks remaining in the row, and then
for the remaining rows. You can now see how the a medallion
block will be formed where four identical triangles come
together.
Pin, then sew the blocks together into rows, carefully matching
the corner fabric designs and the seams. Sew the four rows
together to complete the quilt center.
Step 7: Add the Borders
Add the borders to the quilt following the instructions for
Framing a Square Quilt and Applying Multiple Borders in
Adding Mitered Borders the Jinny Beyer Way on pages 5-6.
Step 8: Quilt & Bind
Layer the project as follows: backing (wrong side up), batting,
quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together. Quilt as
desired.
c) Complete the block by sewing the Fabric 9 triangles to the When the quilting is completed, trim the backing and batting
corners of the block. Note that the triangles with matching even with the edges of the quilt top.
designs must be sewn to opposite corners.
Bind the quilt using the reserved Fabric 6 and your favorite
method or use Jinny’s (jinnybeyer.com/promos/binding).
B1 B2
B2 B1
Block measures 13¾" incl. seam allowances
©2017, RJR Fabrics Page 3
Templates
For each template, trace the pattern onto semi-transparent plastic, transferring all the lines and markings.Cut out the templates
on the solid lines. Punch holes at the dots to make it easy to mark the match-points on the fabric pieces.
Note: If you are strip-piecing the quilt as per the pattern instructions, Template C is used only as one option for the seam
intersections on the fabric and is thus optional. If you prefer to hand-piece the project, Template C is required.
Template A
Template B
Mirror Line
Template C
©2017, RJR Fabrics Page 4
Adding Mitered Borders the Jinny Beyer Way
Jinny Beyer’s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe which
coordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners.
In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a 1/4" seam allowance is
provided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvedge to selvedge, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across
the fabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus
an additional half-yard for a square quilt (2/3 yard for a rectangular one) to match design elements and allow for the miters at
the corners.
Framing a Square Quilt
1. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering a motif
from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minor differences in
seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on bias edges, opposite
edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using a measurement
taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quilt from ruffling at
the edges.) 45° Line
Center
of quilt
2. To mark the first miter, position a quilter’s ruler so the 45° angle runs along
the bottom edge of the border print and the ruler touches the point where the
top edge of the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (See arrow in Diagram
1.) Mark then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cut right at the edge of the Diagram 1: Mark the miter.
quilt, the seam allowance is already included.)
3. Use the mitered angle as a pattern for the other side of the strip as follows.
Without disturbing the un-cut side of the strip, bring the mitered side of the border
strip to that side, folding the strip over itself, right sides together. Place the top
edge of miter at the edge of the quilt, adjusting it a bit if necessary so that the
design motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. Mark and cut this second miter.
(Using the cut edge, rather than a ruler, as a guide ensures that the design motifs
will be an exact match.)
4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, making
sure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces.
5. As in Diagram 2, mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of the
border strips (wrong side of the fabric). To find the spot, simply draw a short line Diagram 2: Cut three pieces identical to the
first. Mark seam intersection dots on the quilt
1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and the shorter edge of the border strip. Mark
and the borders.
the dot where the two lines intersect. Do the same for each corner of the quilt.
6. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border pieces to
the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots on each
side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. Continue pinning the border
to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a little wider
than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt,
starting and stopping at the dots. Repeat for the remaining borders. Pin and sew
the mitered seams last, starting from the inside dot. When pinning the edges
together, be sure to match the design elements on both pieces.
For a video demonstration of this bordering technique, visit:
www.jinnybeyer.com/bordertips
Diagram 3: Correctly cut and sewn
borders will have designs that flow
Reprinted with Permission from JINNY BEYER STUDIO around the corners.
Adding Mitered Borders the Jinny Beyer Way - 1
©2016, Jinny Beyer
©2017, RJR Fabrics Page 5
Framing a Rectangular Quilt
With rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the designs will
automatically match at the corners so you must take an extra step.
1. First, follow steps 1-3 in Framing a Square Quilt and cut two identical
strips for the short ends of the quilt (A strips). The pieces for the other two
sides of the quilt must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces to
match, there must be a seam in these long pieces at the exact center of the quilt.
Cut the border print
strip ¼" beyond the
2. Place one of the A pieces on top of a length of the border print stripe, center line
matching the fabric designs. Cut one miter to match the miter on the A piece.
Set the A piece aside. As in Diagram 4, lay the newly cut strip on top of the quilt
through the center, aligning the mitered edge with the edge of the quilt. Dashed line marks the
Mark the center of the quilt on the strip as shown. Move the strip from the center of the quilt
quilt and cut it off ¼" beyond the center mark. Using this cut piece as a
guide, cut one more identical piece (These are the B pieces).
B
A You also need two pieces that are the
exact mirror images of the B pieces
Align the edge of the
(Br). Lay one of the B pieces right strip with the raw
sides together on a strip of border edge of the quilt top
print, matching the fabric design
Br
exactly. Cut the miter and straight
B
Diagram 4: Find and mark
edge to match the top piece. Using the newly cut
the center of the quilt on the
piece as a guide, cut one more identical Br piece. border strip.
3. Sew the B/Br pieces together into pairs, and attach these borders to the quilt as in
Steps 5 and 6 in Framing a Square Quilt. Sewing the borders to a rectangular quilt
B
Br
in this manner assures that the corners will match. There will be a seam at the center
of the long strips (Diagram 5), but the design at that center will mirror-image as well,
allowing the design to flow around the quilt.
A
Diagram 5: The long borders on rectangular
quilts have center seams.
Applying Multiple Borders
Jinny often designs quilts to make full use of the border prints. First, she will
frame the quilt with the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinating fabric as a
second border. The quilt is finished off with the wide stripe from the border print.
Jinny personally measures and adds each border separately. However, when the
middle border is a fabric that doesn’t have to be matched at the corners, she
recommends the following method as being a little faster: Sew the middle border
to the first (the narrow border print stripe). Measure and cut this unit as a single
border in the steps above. (If the quilt is rectangular, sew the middle border to
the first after the first border has been pieced.) Measure, cut and sew the third
border separately after the first two borders have been completed and sewn to
the quilt.
Binding the Quilt: When Jinny uses a border print to frame a quilt, she typically
sews the binding to the back of the quilt and turns it to the front. This allows her to
carefully hand-stitch the binding along a straight line printed on the border print Diagram 6: Applying multiple borders
fabric. For details, see www.jinnybeyer.com/binding.
Adding Mitered Borders the Jinny Beyer Way - 2
©2017, RJR Fabrics Page 6
