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Violette Field Threads Standard Children’s 2T-10 years Size Chart:

Size 2T 3T 4T 5 6 7 8 9,10

Bust 19 ½” 20” 21” 22” 23” 24 ½” 25 ½” 27”

Waist 19” 19 ½” 20” 21” 22” 23” 24” 25”

Hips 22” 23” 24” 25 ½” 26 ½” 27 ½” 28 ½” 29 ½”

Height 35” 38” 41” 44” 46” 49” 52” 55”

Finished Measurement Chart:

Size 2T 3T 4T 5 6 7 8 9,10

Bust 23” 23 ½” 24 ½” 25 ½” 26 ½” 28” 29 30 ½”

Blouse 14” 14 3/8” 15 1/8” 15 7/8” 16 5/8” 17 ¾” 18 ½” 19 ½”

Length*

Waist (Skirt) 18” 18 ½” 19” 20” 21” 22” 23” 24”

Skirt Length 10” 10 ½” 11 5/8” 12 ½” 13 7/8” 15” 15 5/8” 16 7/8”

*Finished Length from shoulder to hem.

Fit Guide:

Bust: The Gemma Blouse features a relaxed fit with 3 ½” of ease. Measure your child around the bust and add 3
½”. Choose the size closest from the Finished Measurement Chart. If your child is between sizes, we
recommend cutting in between sizes.

Blouse Length: The Gemma Blouse is designed to hit at the hip. It can be shortened or lengthened by simply
adding or taking away from the bottom edge of the blouse front & back pieces.

Skirt Waist: The Gemma Skirt features a flat front waistband with an elastic back. To find your child’s size,
measure around your child’s waist (around the belly button), subtract 1” and choose the size closest from the
Finished Measurement Chart. The elastic will stretch 3-4” for an adjustable fit.

Skirt Length: The Gemma Skirt is designed to 1-2” above the knee. The skirt can be shortened or lengthened by
adding or removing the desired amount of length from skirt pieces.

Sizing can be combined. For example: combine a size 5 width with size 6 length if desired.

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Styles Included:

The Gemma Skirt is a skirt with a full circle skirt and elastic back waistband. Gemma can be made with a flutter
sleeve or can feature short sleeves.

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Fabric Requirements (Based on 44-45” wide fabric)

Size 2T 3T 4T 5 6 7 8 9,10

Blouse Front, Back ¾ yd. ¾ yd. ¾ yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd.
& Sleeves

Blouse Front & ½ yd. ½ yd. ½ yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd.
Back Lining

Blouse Collar & 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd.
Sleeve Cuffs

Skirt Front & Back 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd. 1 yd. 1 1/8 yd. 1 1/8 yd. 1 ¼ yd. 1 ¼ yd. 1 ¼ yd.

Skirt Waistband ¾ yd. ¾ yd. ¾ yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd. 7/8 yd.
Front and Back &
Waistband Lining
Front and Back

Skirt Pockets & ½ yd. ½ yd. ½ yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd.
Pocket Top Panel

Fabric recommendations:
Blouse: Cotton, cotton blends, linen, chambray, eyelet, silk, silk blends, crepe, poly-satin blends, chiffon,
rayon.

Skirt: Cotton, cotton blends, linen, chambray, eyelet, silk, silk blends, corduroy, denim, wool, wool blends.

Notions:
Aurifil Thread – Cotton 40W in a coordinating color.
1/3 yd. Medium Weight Fusible Interfacing
1 yard 1” Elastic (skirt waistband)
6 - 8 ½” Buttons.

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Tips for Sewing...
*All seam allowances are 1/2” unless otherwise stated.
*Gathering: Adjust your sewing machine to a long stitch. Sew a straight line 1/4” from the top of the side to be
gathered. Only backstitch at the end. Pull the bottom thread (the bobbin thread). The fabric will gather and can
be adjusted to desired length.
*Topstitching: A straight stitch sewn along the right side of a garment seam, edge, or trim. Once a seam has
been sewn and serged or finished with a zigzag stitch, iron inside seam up and top stitch close to the seam edge.
The topstitch will help to secure the finished inside seam and add extra durability.
*Ironing: Ironing is a very important part of sewing. Be sure to iron when instructed.
*Pre-shrink machine-washable fabrics: Wash, dry, and iron fabrics prior to beginning your project.

Violette Field Threads, Inc. patterns are for personal use. The purchaser may create sewn items for personal use or sale. For
commercial use, please contact us directly at info@violettefieldthreads.com. Any reproduction of this pattern in part or whole is
strictly prohibited. For more patterns and projects, please visit www.violettefieldthreads.com. To stay up to date with new releases,
tips, and inspirational projects, visit our Facebook page.

Designers Tip: Do you love the ruffled circle skirt we created for our cover look? To achieve this look
follow the simple steps below:
*Sew the circle skirt together at one side seam and finish with either a serger or a zig-zag stitch.
*Hem the raw bottom edge according the instructions in the tutorial.
*Measure the skirt from top to bottom and divide that number by four. Add 1” to the number.
*Measure the circumference around the circle at each spot the four ruffles will be attached. Multiply this
number by 2.
*Use the above two numbers and begin cutting out strips of fabric. The fabric strips will need to be very long
to extend all the way around the circle skirt. You will have to seam together strips to create the larger ruffles.
*Create a rolled hem on the bottom edge of each ruffle.
*Serge the top raw edge.
*Gather up each ruffle.
*Sew each ruffle to the skirt. Start by lining up the edge of the top ruffle with the top raw edge of the skirt.
Sew right along the gathering stitch.
*Attach each subsequent ruffle by placing it ½” under the bottom rolled edge of the previous ruffle.
*Sew the skirt together at the opposite side seam and take care to line up each ruffle layer.
*Finish the skirt by following the instructions in the tutorial.

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Gemma Front & Back Drawings:

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Pattern Pieces:
Print out all pattern pieces. Arrange the pattern pieces as shown in the picture below, tape together and then cut to
size.

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Pattern Pieces (Cont.):

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Cutting Instructions:

Cut all pattern pieces according to the diagram below.

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Cutting Charts:

Pocket Top Panel: Cut 4 for all sizes

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9,10

5” x 2 ½” 5” x 2 ½” 5” x 2 ½” 6” x 2 ½” 6” x 2 ½” 6” x 2 ½” 6” x 2 ½” 6” x 2 ½”

1” Waistband Elastic: Cut 1 for all sizes

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9,10

8 ¾” 9” 9 ¼” 9 ¾” 10 1/8” 10 ½” 10 7/8” 11 ¼”

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Sewing Instructions:
Creating the Blouse:

1. Place two blouse front and one blouse back pieces together with the right sides touching and the raw edges
lining up. Pin together along the shoulder seams. Sew together at the pinned seams. Iron the seams open flat.

2. Place two blouse front linings and one blouse back lining piece together with the right sides touching and the
raw edges lining up. Pin together along the shoulder seams. Sew together at the pinned seams. Iron the seams
open flat.

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Creating the Collar:

3. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of one collar piece.

4. Place the collar pieces together with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up. Pin together along
the outside curved edge. Sew together along the pinned seam.

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5. Trim off ½ of the seam allowance. Clip small triangles in the curves of the collar. Turn right side out and iron
flat.

6. Topstitch right next to the newly sewn seam.

7. Pin the collar to the blouse neckline. Begin by matching up the center of the collar with the center of the
neckline on the blouse back. Continue pinning the collar around both sides of the blouse neckline. The collar
will end approximately 1” short of the front edge on each side. The distance between each side of the blouse
front and the collar should be even on each side, adjust if necessary. Secure the collar with a basting stitch. The
basting stitch should be 1/4” away from the raw edge.

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8. Place the blouse front and back lining on top with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up. The
collar will be sandwiched in between. First pin the shoulder seams together. Continue pinning across the front
and back neckline.

9. Sew together along the pinned seams.

10. Pin together along the left and right front middle seams.

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11. Sew together along the pinned seams. Trim off ½ of the seam allowance. Clip the corners and cut small
triangles into the neckline curves.

12. Turn the blouse right side out and iron flat. Note: A turning tool may be useful to poke out the corners of
the blouse front.

13. Topstitch right next to the seam on the right side of the fabric. Begin by sewing a continuous stitch starting
from the bottom raw edge of one blouse front. Once you reach the collar be sure to flip it up and continue
topstitching on the blouse right below the collar and back down the opposite blouse front, ending at the bottom
raw edge.

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Creating the Short Sleeves (for instruction on how to create the flutter sleeve, please skip down to step # 27):

14. Gather the top raw edge of the sleeve. Sew a gathering stitch along the top flat edge of the sleeve. The
gathering stitch should be ¼” from the top raw edge. Gather the bottom raw edge of the sleeve. Find the center
of the raw bottom sleeve edge. Measure over 2” in each direction and mark with a pin. Sew a gathering stitch in
between the two pins. The gathering stitch should be ¼” from the bottom raw edge. Repeat for the remaining
sleeve.

15. Gather the bottom sleeve edge until ½ of the original width is remaining between the pins. Do not gather up
the top raw edge. Repeat for the remaining sleeve.

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16. Place two cuff pieces together with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up. Pin together along
the bottom raw edge. Trace the pattern markings from the pattern piece onto one cuff.

17. Sew right along the pattern markings. You will find it necessary to lift the presser foot on your sewing
machine to sew around the triangle. Trim off ½ of the seam allowance. Clip the corners and cut a slit in the top
of the triangle taking care not to cut the thread.

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18. Turn the cuff right side out and iron flat. Topstitch right above the newly sewn seam. Note: A turning tool
may be useful to poke out the corners of the triangle.

19. Place the sleeve cuff and sleeve together with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up. Pin
together along the bottom raw edge. Note: You may need to adjust the gather to fit the sleeve cuff. Sew
together along the pinned seam. For a professional look, finish the seam with a serger or trim off ½ of the seam
allowance and finish with a zigzag stitch.

20. Iron the seam up towards the sleeve. Topstitch right above the seam on the right side of the fabric.

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21. Fold approximately 2/3 of the cuff up. Leave approximately 1” between the finished edge of the cuff and
the top of the raw side edge of the sleeve. Pin to secure. Sew a basting stitch along the pinned seams.

22. Repeat steps 20-27 for the opposite sleeve and remaining two cuff pieces.

23. Pin one sleeve to one armhole opening (both the main and lining layers) with the right sides touching. Begin
pinning at one edge of the armhole opening and stop pinning at the gathering mark. Now pin starting at the
opposite armhole opening and stop pinning at the gathering mark.

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24. Pull the gathering thread until the sleeve perfectly fits and finish pinning.

25. Sew the sleeve to the armhole opening by starting at one edge and sewing around the U shape to the other
edge. Tip: Sew slowly, keeping your fabric taut so that you do not accidently create any gathers on the
blouse. For a professional look, finish the seam with a serger or trim off ½ of the seam allowance and finish
with a zigzag stitch.

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26. Repeat steps 23-25 for the remaining sleeve and opposite armhole opening.

Creating the Flutter Sleeves: (for continuing with the short sleeve, skip down to step 31.)

27. Hem the bottom of the flutter sleeve. Turn the fabric 1/4” up and iron. Then turn up another 1/4” and iron.
Sew around the ironed hem.

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28. Gathering the flutter sleeve. Measure ½” away from one of the top edges and mark with a pin. Measure ½”
from the opposite side edge and mark with a pin. Sew a gathering stitch in between the pins. The gathering
stitch should be ¼” from the top raw edge. Gather the sleeve leaving the ½” on either side flat.

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29. Pin the sleeve to the armhole opening, with the right sides touching. Line up the centers and continue
pinning down both sides of the armhole until you reach the edges, adjusting the gathers as necessary.

30. Sew the sleeve to the armhole opening by starting at one edge and sewing around the U shape to the other
edge. Tip: Sew slowly, keeping your fabric taut so that you do not accidently create any gathers on the
blouse. For a professional look, finish the seam with a zig-zag stitch or serge without the blade. Repeat for the
opposite sleeve.

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Continue here for all options:

31. Pin the blouse front, blouse back and sleeves together along the side seams. First, line up the armpit seams
and pin. Next, pin together the raw edges of the sleeve. Now pin the blouse front and blouse back side seams
together, finishing at the bottom raw edge.

32. Sew together along the pinned seams. Begin sewing a continuous stitch starting at the finished sleeve edge
and ending at the bottom raw edge of the blouse. Note: Once you reach the armpit, you will need to lift your
presser foot and turn. For a professional look, finish the seam with a serger or trim off 1/2 of the seam
allowance and finish with a zigzag stitch. Repeat for the opposite sleeve and blouse side seams.

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33. Hem the bottom of the blouse. Turn the fabric 1/4” up and iron. Then turn up another 1/4” and iron. Sew
around the ironed hem.

34. Mark the placement of buttons with sewing pins or a pencil. The first button should be approximately ¼”
from the top edge, with subsequent buttons placed 1 1/2-2” apart. Sew buttonholes at each pin mark, using the
button hole feature on your machine. Note: We recommend sewing vertical buttonholes.

35. Sew buttons onto the opposite side of the blouse.

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Creating the Skirt:

1. Sew a basting stitch around the top edge of the circle skirt to help prevent stretching.

Create the Pockets:

2. Sew a center pleat. Transfer the pleat pattern markings onto the pockets. Fold two pocket pieces in half
widthwise with the right sides touching and the pleat lines matching up. Measure down 1” from the top raw
edge and mark with a pin.

3. Sew along the pleat line from the top edge until you reach the 1” pin mark. Iron the fold over to one side.

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4. Place one pocket top panel and one pocket together with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up.
Pin together along the top raw edge of the pocket. Repeat with one more pocket top panel and the remaining
pocket piece.

5. Sew together along the pinned seam of both pocket pieces. Iron the seam allowance up towards the pocket
panel. Topstitch right above each seam on the right side of the pocket pieces.

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6. Place the pocket pieces together with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up. Pin together all the
way around the pocket, leaving a 1” space in the top open for turning.

7. Sew around the pinned seam. Trim off ½ of the seam allowance and clip the corners. Note: Do not trim the
seam allowance from the 1” opening.

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8. Turn the pocket right side out and iron flat. Note: A turning tool may be useful to poke out the corners of
the pocket. Topstitch around the top pocket panel. This step has closed the 1” opening in the top.

9. Pull one bottom corner up until the pocket bottom meets the side edge. This creates a small triangle shape on
the bottom corner. Pin the bottom corner.

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10. Sew along the corner with a ½” seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite bottom corner of the pocket.

11. Clip off the bottom of the sewn triangles and turn the pocket right side out.

12. Repeat steps 2-11 for the remaining pocket and pocket top panel pieces.

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13. Determine pocket placement. The pockets should be centered between the front skirt middle and sides. Find
the skirt sides by folding the skirt in half and marking the sides. Then, fold the skirt in half the other way,
aligning the sides in the center of the skirt to find the skirt front and back center point. Each pocket should also
be centered between the top and bottom raw edges. When pinning the pocket to the skirt, do not pull the
finished edges out flat. Position the pocket so that it is resting on the skirt as it would be once sewn. This will
allow for a 3D pocket. Carefully pin the pockets to the skirt.

14. Sew the pockets to the skirt around three edges leaving, the top edge open.

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Creating the Waistband:

15. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of one waistband front.

16. Place the front and back waistbands together with the right sides touching and the side edges lining up. Pin
the front and back together at one side edge.

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17. Sew together along the pinned seam.

Fit the waistband onto the skirt: The waistband is drafted to fit inside of the circle skirt opening. The top
edge opening of the circle skirt can stretch during cutting and sewing. This is due to the circle skirt being
cut along the bias of the fabric. Also, cutting errors can occur. Follow the below instructions to ensure a
perfect waistband fit.

18. Place the waistband on the skirt with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up. Match up the
finished side seam of the waistband with one skirt side (marked in step 13). Pin the waistband around the skirt.
The waistband should extend ½” past the opposite finished skirt side seam on each side (to account for the
remaining seam allowance on the open side of the waistband).

• If the waistband is short, sew down one side of the skirt to reduce the size of the top edge by the amount
necessary.
• If the waistband is longer, adjust the seam allowance as you close the opposite side seam on the
waistband.

19. Remove the waistband from the skirt. Finishing creating the front and back waistband by pinning it together
along the open remaining side seam. Sew together along the pinned seam.

20. Pin the front and back waistband lining together at both side seams. Sew together along the pinned seams.
Note: Any adjustments made to the front and back waistband should be repeated for the front and back
waistband lining.

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21. Place the waistband and waistband lining together with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up.
Pin together along the top raw edge. Note: This is the curved edge.

22. Sew together along the pinned seam.

23. Open the waistband up, separating the waistband band from the lining as shown below. Finish the bottom
edge of the waistband lining. Finish with a serger, a tight zig zag stitch, or turn the edge up ¼” and iron flat.

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24. Place the skirt and waistband together with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up. Line up the
side seams of the waistband with the side markings on the skirt. The bottom raw edge of the waistband main
should line up with the top raw edge of the skirt. Note: The lining should still be folded open and separate
from the waistband main.

25. Sew together along the pinned seam. Trim off ½ of the seam allowance. Turn right side out and iron the
seam allowance up towards the waistband.

26. Fold the waistband lining down so that it covers the exposed seam on the inside of the skirt and iron flat.
Secure with pins. Tip: Place the pins on the inside of the waistband with the ball of the pin down towards
the skirt and the sharp metal point up towards the waistband. Use lots of pins!! Alternatively, you can
use Stitch Witchery or other fusible webbing to secure the waistband in place. Sew on the right side of the
fabric across the back waistband directly above the seam. Sew right over the pins, as this will ensure a neat
inside waistband. Stop at the side seams, do not sew across the front at this time.

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27. Insert the elastic to the back waistband.

a. Cut the elastic using the chart below.

1” Waistband Elastic: Cut 1 for all sizes

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9,10

8 ¾” 9” 9 ¼” 9 ¾” 10 1/8” 10 ½” 10 7/8” 11 ¼”

b. Attach one end of the elastic to a safety pin.

c. Insert the safety pin with the elastic attached into one side of the back casing. Guide the safety pin
through to the other side, leaving ½” excess elastic on each side toward the front waistband.

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 d. Continue guiding the safety pin through the casing until it has reached the opposite side seam. Remove the
safety pin and tuck the last ½” of the elastic just past the side seam and secure with a pin.

28. Sew down the waist side seams to secure the elastic at each side. Sew across both of the openings on the
back waistband.

29. Sew across the front waistband to secure the waistband to the skirt.

30. Hem the circle skirt. Sew a basting stitch all the way around the skirt with a ¼” seam allowance. This helps
stabilize the fabric so you can iron in the hem.

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31. Fold the bottom edge up ¼” and iron flat. The fold line will be right along the basting stitch. Then turn the
fabric up another ¼” and iron flat. Sew around the ironed hem on the wrong side of the fabric right along the
folded edge.

32. You have now made the Gemma Blouse & Skirt!

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 Test Square

9,10
1” x 1” 1A

6
5
4
3
2
9,10

3
2

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© Violette Field Threads 2018. All Rights Reserved. For personal use only. www.violettefieldthreads.com
 1B
1A

Blouse Back
Lengthen or shorten here

1/2” seam allowance included

Gemma
grainline

cut 2 on the fold

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© Violette Field Threads 2018. All Rights Reserved. For personal use only. www.violettefieldthreads.com
 1B

1C

9,10
8
7
6
5
4
3
2

3
2
2
3
4
5

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 1C

9,10
8
7
6
5
4
3
2

9,10
8
7
6
5
4
2
3

9,10
8
6

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© Violette Field Threads 2018. All Rights Reserved. For personal use only. www.violettefieldthreads.com
 2A

d
e fol ing)
h c
o n t terfa
t3 in
cu ric, 1
fab
32
4

7
6
5
(2
08
9,1

a
m r ei
n clu
d ed

m c

Ge olla
an
ow
all
m
ea
C
s
2”
1/

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 2A

9,10
8
7
6
5
4
3
2

ine
l
ain
gr

d ed
n clu
c ei
an
ow
all
m
s ea
2”
1/

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© Violette Field Threads 2018. All Rights Reserved. For personal use only. www.violettefieldthreads.com
 9,10

8
7
3A

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© Violette Field Threads 2018. All Rights Reserved. For personal use only. www.violettefieldthreads.com
 3B
6
5
4

3
2

3A
Lengthen or shorten here

grainline

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© Violette Field Threads 2018. All Rights Reserved. For personal use only. www.violettefieldthreads.com
 3B

3C

9,10
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
Blouse Front
1/2” seam allowance included

Gemma
Cut 4

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 3C

9,10
8
7
6
5
4
3
2

9,10
8
7
6
5
4
3
2

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 9,10

5
6-10 4-5 2-3

4-5 2-3
6-10

3D

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4

3
2

Gemma
grainline

Flutter Short Sleeve

Cut 2
1/2” seam allowance included

3D 3E

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 2-3

2-3

3E 3E

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 9,10
2
3
4
5
6

7
8

4-5 6-10

4-5 6-10

3E

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 9,10
8
7
6
5
4
3
2

Gemma
Short Sleeve
cut 2 on the fold

1/2” seam allowance included

grainline

4A

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 9,10 8 7 6
5 4
3 2

Gemma
Short Sleeve Cuff

sew li ine
Cut 4

2-3 sew w l
linene
4-5 0 se
1/2” seam allowance included

6 -1
sew line

9,10 87 6 5 4 3 2

9,
8 10
7 4B
5 6
4
23

4A

9,
23 4 5 6 7 8 10

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 6 7 8 9,10
4 5
2 3

grainline
6-14-5 2s-e3 sew
sew li ine

0 s w li line
2-3 sew w l
linene

ew ne
4-5 0 se

line
6 -1

sew line

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9,10

4B

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 9,10 8 7 6 5 43 2

grainline
Gemma
Back Waistban
1/2” seam allowance included
32
5 4
9,10 8 7 6

9,10 8 7 6
5 4
32

Gemma
grainline

Front Waistb
1/2” seam allowance includ
9,10 8 7 6 5 43 2

5A

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 6-10

4-5

cut 2 on the fold

Gemma 2-3

ck Waistband
1/2” seam allowance included
(2 fabric, 1 interfacing)
cut 3 on the fold

e
lin
ld
Fo
e
lin
ld

Gemma lin
e
Fo

ront Waistband Fo
ld

1/2” seam allowance included

5B
5A

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 Pleat 6-10

4-5
Pleat

2-3
Pleat
grainline

Gemma
Pocket
Cut 4 Fo
ld
1/2” seam allowance included lin
e

Fo
ld
lin
2-3 e
Fo

4-5
l d
lin
e

6-10

5B

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 3
4
2
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9,10
cut 1 on the double fold

6A

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4

9,10
5
6
7
8
cut 1 on the double fold

a
m Ba
c k

em
d
de
t& clu
G F ro
n
wa
nc
e in

ir t al
lo
Sk s ea
m
2”
1/
6B

6A

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 2

5
3

6B 6C

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 9,10
6

6C

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 2

6D

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 6E

6D

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 6E 6F

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 6F

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 9,10

6G

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 6G

Prepared exclusively for Flávia Moreira (fracampos@yahoo.com.br) Transaction: 464050

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