Mister G

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jasm Kam
A pattern by Yanina Каmyshan (jasmine.st). The pattern is for personal
use only. Publishing (placing the pattern on websites or in print media),
distributing or selling the pattern partially or completely is prohibited!
You can give or sell the finished toy on the assumption of authorship’s
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mention (Yanina Kamyshan).

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I used “Jeans” by YarnArt (55% cotton, 45% acrylic, 50g/160m) and 1.75 mm crochet hook. The
toy is 32 cm tall (12.6 inches) using the materials mentioned above.
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Work in continuous spiral unless otherwise stated. I recommend using a stitch marker for each
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round (for example contrasting color thread).

Materials and tools:

 beige color yarn – I used less than 50 g;
 black color yarn – I used more than 50 g;
 grey color yarn – I used less than 50 g;
 matching crochet hook;
 stuffing;
 2 black half beads (I used 8 mm in diameter) for the pupils of the eyes;
 a piece of white felt for the whites of the eyes;
 wire – quantity and diameter depends on the size of your toy (I used PVC covered wire 3 mm in
diameter);
 wooden stick for stuffing hard-to-get places;
 transparent glue;
© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015
  any material for tinting;
 a piece of wool for felting for the eyebrows (optional – you can embroider them instead);
 fabric tape to work up wire;
 zipper (optional);
 strong thread for needle sculpting.

Abbreviations:
 ch – chain;

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 sc – single crochet;
 inc – increase: 2 sc in one st;
dec – decrease: 2 sc together;

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
 sl st – slip stitch;
 hdc – half double crochet;
 hdc inc – half double crochet increase: 2 hdc in one st;
 dc – double crochet;
 sctbl – single crochet through back loop only;
 ()хN – repeat instructions in brackets N times.
jasm Kam
Left leg
Work with black color yarn. Leave a tail for sewing at the beginning of your work to sew the leg to
the boot later.
Ch 10, join with a sl st to form a circle and work:
Rnds 1-2: 10 sc
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc)х5 (15)
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Rnd 4: sctbl 15 sc
Rnds 5-19: 15 sc
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Rnd 20: 1 inc, 14 sc (16)

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Rnds 21-26: 16 sc
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Rnd 27: (7 sc, 1 inc)х2 (18)

Rnds 28-29: 18 sc
Rnd 30: 1 sc, 7 hdc, 10 sc (18) – half
double crochets are worked to form the
knee
Rnd 31: 1 inc, 7 hdc, 1 inc, 9 sc (20)
Rnds 32-33: 20 sc
Rnd 34: (9 sc, 1 inc)х2 (22)
Rnds 35-36: 22 sc
Rnd 37: (10 sc, 1 inc)х2 (24)
Rnds 38-40: 24 sc
Rnd 41: (11 sc, 1 inc)х2 (26)
© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015
 Rnds 42-48: 26 sc
Fasten off.
Find the center of the inner side of the leg and mark it (see picture).
Go back to Rnd 3.
Join black color yarn to the unworked front loops of Rnd 3 and work a round of sc holding the
piece with the beginning of your work (narrow edge) facing forward. End with a sl st into the 1st
st of the rnd. Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Right leg

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Work the same way you did for the left leg but do
not fasten off after Rnd 48. Sc to reach the
middle of the inner side of the leg (I worked 4
sc). Ch 2 and join in the middle of the inner side
of the left leg. Use picture as a reference.

Now work the Body:

jasm Kam
Rnd 49: ((3 sc, 1 inc)х2, 18 sc) along the left leg, 2 sc along the chain, (18 sc, (1 inc, 3 sc)х2)
along the right leg, 2 sc along the chain (60)
Rnds 50-61: 60 sc
Make the wire frame. Take a piece of wire (I used 75 cm for the toy 32 cm tall) and bend it using
pictures below as a reference. Insert the wire frame into the legs. Bend both wire ends to the
length of the feet (I bent 6 cm for each foot for the toy 32 cm tall). I recommend that you leave
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wire ends for the feet longer than needed – you can always cut extra if necessary. Stuff each leg
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- slightly from the bottom up to the knee and firmly from the knee up.
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Rnd 62: 5 sc, 2 dec, 42 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (56)

Rnds 63-64: 56 sc
Change to grey color yarn.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Rnds 65-67: 56 sc
Rnd 68: (13 sc, 1 inc)х4 (60)
Rnd 69: (14 sc, 1 inc)х4 (64)
Rnd 70: (15 sc, 1 inc)х4 (68)
Rnd 71: 68 sc
Rnd 72: (16 sc, 1 inc)х4 (72)
Rnds 73-74: 72 sc
Work two more sc and move the marker behind the last worked st. Make sure you are at the

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middle of the back. If not, work as many sts as you need to reach the middle of the back or
unravel as many sts as you need to be at the middle of the back.

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Rnd 75: 10 sc, (1 inc, 6 sc)х2, 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc, (6 sc, 1 inc)х2, 10 sc (78)
Rnd 76: 10 sc, (1 inc, 7 sc)х2, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc, (7 sc, 1 inc)х2, 10 sc (84)
Rnds 77-79: 84 sc
Work one more sc and move the marker.
Rnd 80: 14 sc, (7 sc, 1 inc)х6, 22 sc (90)
Rnds 81-86: 90 sc
jasm Kam
Rnd 87: 10 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec)х6, 22 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc)х6, 10 sc (78)
Rnd 88: 10 sc, (1 sc, 1 dec)х6, 22 sc, (1 dec, 1 sc)х6, 10 sc (66)
Rnd 89: (7 sc, 2 dec)х6 (54)
Rnd 90: (7 sc, 1 dec)х6 (48)
Stuff the shoulders tightly!
Rnd 91: (6 sc, 1 dec)х6 (42)
Rnd 92: (5 sc, 1 dec)х6 (36)
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Rnd 93: (4 sc, 1 dec)х6 (30)

Rnd 94: (3 sc, 1 dec)х6 (24)
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Change to beige color yarn.

Rnd 95: (6 sc, 1 dec)х3 (21)
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Rnd 96: 21 sc
Rnd 97: 2 sc, 1 inc, (2 hdc, 1 hdc inc)х5, 2 sc, 1 inc (28)
Rnd 98: (3 sc, 1 inc)х2, (3 hdc, 1 hdc inc)х3, (3 sc, 1 inc)х2 (35)
Rnd 99: (4 sc, 1 inc)х7 (42)
Rnd 100: (5 sc, 1 inc)х7 (49)
Rnd 101: 5 sc, (4 sc, 1 inc)х7, 9 sc (56)
Rnd 102: 5 sc, (5 sc, 1 inc)х7, 9 sc (63)
Rnd 103: 4 sc, (6 sc, 1 inc)х7, 10 sc (70)
Rnd 104: 4 sc, (8 sc, 1 inc)х6, 12 sc (76)
Rnds 105-112: 76 sc
Work three more sc and move the marker to start the next round exactly from the middle of the
back of the head.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Rnd 113: 35 sc, ch 10, skip 6 sts, 35 sc (80)
You will notice an opening for the nose.
Rnd 114: 33 sc, 2 hdc, (2 hdc, 6 sc, 2 hdc) along the
chain, 2 hdc, 33 sc (80)
Rnd 115: 19 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec)х3, 6 hdc, 1 sc, 2 dec, 1
sc, 6 hdc, (1 dec, 2 sc)х3, 19 sc (72)
Rnd 116: 72 sc
The wire frame should reach the center of the head. I

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recommend that you use longer wire than needed. You
can always cut extra or make a loop just as I did. Use

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pictures as a reference.
Leave this part of your work aside and go back to the
opening for the nose.
I don’t recommend cutting off the yarn to work the
nose. It is better to pull up the other yarn end from the
center of the skein to crochet the nose.
jasm Kam
Nose
Join beige color yarn (from the center of the skein as I
recommended above) at the side of the opening (see
picture).
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Rnd 1: work (12 sc, 6 hdc) around the opening (make

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sure half double crochets are worked along the bottom

edge) (18)
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Rnd 2: 13 sc, 4 hdc, 1 sc (18)

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Rnd 3: (4 sc, 1 dec)х3 (15)

Rnd 4: (3 sc, 1 dec)х3 (12)
Rnds 5-6: 12 sc
Rnd 7: (2 sc, 1 dec)х3 (9)
Rnd 8: 9 sc
Rnd 9: (1 sc, 1 dec)х3 (6)
Rnd 10: 6 sc
Rnd 11: 3 dec (3)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing and close up the opening.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Stuff the nose firmly. Use a thin wooden stick to stuff the
tip of the nose.
Thread the needle with the yarn tail left after finishing
the nose. Run the needle to the wrong side of your work
through the nose throughout the stuffing. Secure the
stuffing with a few stitches. Secure the yarn and cut off.

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jasm Kam
Now work the Head:
Rnd 117: 34 sc, 2 dec, 34 sc (70)
Rnd 118: 70 sc
Rnd 119: 9 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc)х6, 15 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec (73) – increases are made
to form the eyebrow ridge
Rnd 120: 3 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 47 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (69)
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Rnd 121: 10 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec)х6, (10 sc, 1 dec)х2 (60)
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Rnd 122: (8 sc, 1 dec)х6 (54)

Stuff the bottom part of the head firmly!
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Continue stuffing the piece as you go.

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Rnd 123: (7 sc, 1 dec)х6 (48)

Rnd 124: (6 sc, 1 dec)х6 (42)
Rnd 125: (5 sc, 1 dec)х6 (36)
Rnd 126: (4 sc, 1 dec)х6 (30)
Rnd 127: (3 sc, 1 dec)х6 (24)
Rnd 128: (2 sc, 1 dec)х6 (18)
Rnd 129: (1 sc, 1 dec)х6 (12)
Rnd 130: dec to close the opening
Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Hand and arm (make 2)

Finger (make 5)

Work with skin color yarn.

Ch 2, in 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 1: 5 sc
Rnds 2-5: 5 sc

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Fasten off for four fingers.
Do not cut off yarn on the 5th finger. Join all fingers (the first finger will be the thumb and you will

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join it later):
Rnd 6: 2 sc along the 5th finger, 3 sc along the 4th finger, 2 sc along the 3rd finger, 5 sc along the
2nd finger, 3 sc along the 3rd finger, 2 sc along the 4th finger, 3 sc along the 5th finger (20)
Rnds 7-8: 20 sc
Now join the thumb:
Rnd 9:
jasm Kam
For the left hand: 2 sc hooking through both sts of the hand and the thumb (joining them
together), 18 sc along the hand (20)
For the right hand: 8 sc along the hand, 2 sc hooking through both sts of the hand and the thumb
(joining them together), 10 sc along the hand (20)
Rnd 10:
For the left hand: 3 sc along the unworked sts of the thumb, 18 sc along the hand (21)
For the right hand: 8 sc along the hand, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the thumb, 10 sc along
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the hand (21)

Make wire frame for the arms and insert it in the piece. Make sure the wire is firm enough. I
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usually make wire frame for the thumb separately and attach it to the main frame using fabric
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tape. Use next pictures as a

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reference. Please note that

the wire frame should be by
4 cm longer than the arm
(for the toy 32 cm tall). The
arm’s length of my toy is
approximately 11.5 cm.
Stuff the palm only.
Continue stuffing the arm
slightly as you go. Work
around the wire frame:

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Rnd 11:
For the left arm: 1 dec, 19 sc (20)
For the right arm: 9 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc (20)
Rnd 12: (2 sc, 1 dec)х5 (15)
Rnd 13: (3 sc, 1 dec)х3 (12)
Rnd 14: 12 sc (12)
Change to grey color yarn.
Rnds 15-42: 12 sc

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Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

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Ears

Left ear:

Work with beige color yarn.

Ch 2, work in 2nd st from the hook in rows:
jasm Kam
Row 1: 6 sc, turn
Row 2: ch 2, 1 hdc inc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (8)
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Right ear:

Work with beige color yarn.

Ch 2, work in 2nd st from the hook in rows:
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Row 1: 6 sc, turn

Row 2: ch 1, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc inc (8)
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Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

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Needle sculpting the nose:

Find the right position for the
points for needle sculpting using
pictures as a reference. Upper
points show the wings of the
nose, lower points show the
nostrils. Thread your needle
with strong thread matching the
color of the head.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Insert your needle in point 1, pull out in point 2;
Insert your needle in point 3, pull out in point 4.
Secure both thread ends with a double or triple knot pulling them on tight (but not too hard).
Thread the needle with one of the thread ends.
Insert your needle in point 1, pull out in point 5, insert your needle in point 6, pull out in point 7.
Insert your needle in point 8, pull out in point 5.
Secure both thread ends with a double or triple knot pulling them on tight (but not too hard).
Weave in loose ends.

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Needle sculpting the eye sockets:

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Find the right position for the points for needle sculpting using pictures as a reference. Thread
your needle with strong thread matching the color of the head.
jasm Kam
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For the right eye socket:

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Insert your needle in point А, pull out in point В;

Insert your needle in point С, pull out in point D.
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Secure both thread ends with a double or triple knot pulling them on tight (but not too hard).
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For the left eye socket:

Insert your needle in point E, pull out in point F;
Insert your needle in point G, pull out in point H.
Secure both thread ends with a double or triple knot pulling them on tight (but not too hard).
Weave in loose ends.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Needle sculpting the nose bridge:
Find the right position for the points for needle sculpting
using pictures as a reference. Thread your needle with
strong thread matching the color of the head.
Insert your needle in point I, pull out in point J;
Insert your needle in point K, pull out in point L.
Secure both thread ends with a double or triple knot pulling

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them on tight (but not too hard). Move the knot to the point

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I. Weave in loose ends.
jasm Kam
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Boot (make 2)
Work with black color yarn.
Ch 2, in 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 1: 5 sc
Rnd 2: 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (6)
Rnd 3: (2 sc, 1 inc)х2 (8)

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Rnd 4: 8 sc
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc)х2 (10)
Rnd 6: 10 sc
Rnd 7: (4 sc, 1 inc)х2 (12)
Rnds 8-9: 12 sc
Rnd 10: (1 sc, 1 inc)х2, 8 sc (14)
Rnds 11-13: 14 sc
Rnd 14: 2 sc, ch 3, skip 3 sts, 9 sc (14)

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You will notice an opening that you will insert the wire frame into later.
Rnd 15: 2 sc, 3 sc along the chain, 9 sc (14)

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Rnd 16: 7 dec (7)
Fasten off leaving a tail for closing up the opening later.
Stuff the tip of the boot firmly. Try the boots onto wire ends left for the boots. Cut extra wire if
needed. Insert wire ends in the openings of the boots between Rnds 14 and 15. Use pictures
below as a reference. Sew the boots to the legs using the tail of yarn left at the beginning of
crocheting the leg.
jasm Kam
Stuff the heel through the opening left after finishing the boot. Close up the opening. Secure the
yarn and weave in loose ends.
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© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Collar
Work loose or take a bigger
crochet hook.
Work with grey color yarn.
Ch 15 leaving a long tail for sewing
and work starting from 2nd st from the hook in rows (ch 1 at the beginning each row and turn
your work after each row).

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Row 1: 14 sc

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Now work the remaining rows into the front loop only:
Rows 2-36: 14 sc
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Fold the collar in half lengthwise and wrap around the neck. Sew the shorter edges together using
the yarn tail left at the beginning of your work (the seam should be at the back of the toy). Sew
the inner edge of the collar onto the body using the tail of yarn left at the end of your work. Use
jasm Kam
pictures below as a reference.

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© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Jacket:
Work loose or take a bigger crochet hook.

Back:

Work with black color yarn in rows (ch 1 at the beginning of each row (unless otherwise stated)
and turn you work after each row).
Ch 30, from 2nd st from the hook:

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Row 1: 29 sc
!!! Try the jacket on the toy to see if the length fits. If the jacket is too short, increase the

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amount of sts in the starting chain.
Rows 2-4: 29 sc
Row 5: 9 sc, 20 hdc
Row 6: ch 2, 15 hdc, 14 sc
Rows 7-8: 29 sc
Row 9: 9 sc, 18 hdc
jasm Kam
Leave the remaining sts unworked.
Row 10: ch 2, 13 hdc, 14 sc
Rows 11-12: 27 sc
Row 13: 9 sc, 18 hdc
Row 14: ch 2, 13 hdc, 14 sc
Rows 15-17: 27 sc
This is the middle of the back. Try the back onto the toy. If the back is wide enough, continue
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working Row 18. If the back is too narrow, work two more rows of sc and then work Row 18.
Rows 18-20: 27 sc
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Row 21: 9 sc, 18 hdc

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Row 22: ch 2, 13 hdc, 14 sc

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Rows 23-24: 27 sc
Row 25: 9 sc, 18 hdc
Row 26: ch 2, 13 hdc, 14 sc
Row 27: 27 sc
Row 28: ch 3, starting from 2nd st from the hook:
2 sc along the chain; work along the back: 27 sc
(29)
Row 29: 9 sc, 20 hdc
Row 30: ch 2, 15 hdc, 14 sc
Rows 31-34: 29 sc
Fasten off.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Left front:

Repeat Rows 1-16 of the back (remember to work an additional row of sc if you added two more
rows after Row 17 of the back).

Right front:

Ch 28 and work starting from 2nd st from the hook repeating Rows 19-34 of the back (remember
to work an additional row of sc at the beginning of the right front if you added two more rows

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after Row 17 of the back).

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jasm Kam
Sew the shoulder seams.

Now work the sleeves.

Left sleeve:
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Count 7 sts down from the shoulder seam of the

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left front and join yarn to the 8th st.

Row 1: 8 sc along the front, 8 sc along the back
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(16)
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Now work in rows (starting each row with ch 1

and turning your work after each row).
Rows 2-24: 16 sc
Row 25: 16 sl st
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the sleeve
and the side seam.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Right sleeve:

Count 7 sts down from the shoulder seam of the

back and join yarn to the 8th st.
Row 1: 8 sc along the back, 8 sts along the front
(16)
Now work in rows (starting each row with ch 1
and turning your work after each row).

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Rows 2-24: 16 sc
Row 25: 16 sl st

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Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the sleeve and
the side seam.

Jacket collar:

Join yarn to the beginning of the neck on the right

jasm Kam
and work in rows:
Row 1: single crochet the jacket neck
Row 2: into the front loops only (2 hdc, 1 hdc
inc) – repeat to end
Row 3: into the front loops only (4 hdc, 1 hdc
inc) – repeat to end
Fasten off and weave in loose ends.
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Sew in the zipper. If you do not want to use a

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zipper, you can crochet a stripe using grey color

yarn (2-3 rows of 27 sc each).
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© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Making up
Make the eyes any way you like. I used white felt and black half beads. Cut out 2 ovals out of
white felt. The whites of the eyes are ready. Usually I cut the whites out of a sheet of paper. Then
I try them on the face with half beads being onto them. If I am pleased with the result, I transfer
them on a piece of felt and cut them out. Tint the eye sockets, nostrils and the wings of the nose
using any material for tinting you like (I used regular blusher). Glue the felt ovals on the eye
sockets. Glue the half beads for the pupils onto the whites of the eyes.

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jasm Kam
Find the right position for the ears and sew them onto the head.

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Find the right position for the arms. Insert wire ends into the body and sew the arms onto the
head.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Put the jacket onto the toy. Sew the sleeves and the side seams of the jacket.

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If you want to add volume to the shoulders, make shoulder pads using any suitable material (I

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used foam rubber) and attached it with a couple of stitches to the shoulder seams from the wrong
side of the jacket.
jasm Kam
Ch 6 for the eyelids. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sew the eyelid above the eye.

the eyebrows. You can embroider them instead.

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I used wool for felting for

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The expression of Mr.G’s face depends on the position of the eyebrows. I recommend that you
first try different variants of the eyebrows and the mouth. When you pleased with the result, felt
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the eyebrows onto the head (or embroider them) and embroider the mouth. 
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Tint the eyes’ outlines and the nostrils using brown color.

© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015

 Your Mister G is ready!

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jasm Kam
I hope you enjoyed the pattern. Please don’t forget to mention the author – I would be very
happy! Sincerely yours, Yanina Kamyshan.

http://jasmine.in.ua/
http://www.etsy.com/jasminetoys
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© Yanina (jasmine.st) Kamyshan, 2015