An Introduction To Emulsion Basics: APS Distributor Online Training 2020

An introduction to
Emulsion Basics
APS distributor online training 2020
21st July, 2020
1
What is an emulsion?
▪ A mixture of 2 immiscible liquids + emulsifier

▪ Consisting of 2 phases:
Continuous phase
− Continuous or external phase
− Dispersed or internal phase
▪ Examples:
− Homogenized milk
Dispersed phase
− Mayonnaise
2 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Types of emulsions
Binary emulsions
Oil Water
phase phase
Oil
Water droplets
droplets
Water-in-Oil Emulsion (W/O) Oil-in-Water Emulsion (O/W)
Approx. 80 % of emulsion preparations in the market are oil-in-water

Composition of cosmetic emulsions
Water;
Basic components
Oil
Emulsifier;
Stabilizing system
Consistency enhancers; waxes
Specific dermatological ingredients;

Active ingredients
Organic and inorganic UV filters
Auxiliary Preservatives, antioxidants;

substances Fragrances and dyes

Example of O/W emulsion formula
Natural O/W Body Lotion (H 3/18-8)
Phase Ingredients w/w%

dermofeel® NC MB 5.00
(Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate)
TEGOSOFT® DC MB (Decyl Cocoate) 4.00
A dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isoamyl Laurate) 4.00 Oil
droplets
TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 0.10
TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 0.10
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 2.00

Water 80.30
B Water
Glycerin 3.00 phase
Verstatil® SL non GMO 1.50
C
(Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Potassium Sorbate)

Example of W/O emulsion formula
W/O Silk Body Milk (BR 2/16-2)
Phase Ingredients w/w %

ABIL® EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) 3.00 Oil
phase
TEGOSOFT® DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 10.50
A TEGOSOFT® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 10.50
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.50
Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax 0.50
Water 70.70
Water
B Glycerin 3.00 droplets
Sodium Chloride 0.80
C Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol 0.50

Cosmetic emulsions
Water-in-Oil Emulsion Oil-in-Water Emulsion
Due to the skin

feel both cosmetic
water-in-oil and
oil-in-water
emulsions
do not contain
Assumption: more than approx.
closest package of water droplets 30 % oil phase
of equal size
 74% filled space,
i. e. 26% oil phase 26% oil phase
• great distance between oil droplets

• minimal distance between water droplets • no interaction
• very strong interaction
→ viscosity of the emulsion = viscosity of the
→ high viscosity of the emulsion, difficult to stabilize external phase (thin like water)
→ necessity of stabilization
→ necessity of thickening

Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions
Different mechanisms of thickening
Bilayer structures Water-swellable polymers
Different skin feel

and texture!
Threedimensional network of bilayer Threedimensional network of water swollen

structures consisting of emulsifier and organopolymers, e. g. cross-linked
consistency agents such as Glyceryl Stearate polyacrylates, Hydroxyethylcellulose,
and Cetearyl Alcohol Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan

Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsions
Mechanisms of stabilization
High Viscous Oil Phase Oleogel Forming Waxes Polymeric, polyfunctional

Emulsifiers
Increasing the emulsion viscosity by Threedimensional network of oleogel Fixation of the polyfunctional emulsifier
increasing the viscosity of the forming waxes, e. g. Castor Wax, at the interface, e.g.
(external) oil phase, e. g. with Microwax, Bees Wax ABIL® EM 90 or ISOLAN® GPS
Petrolatum

Stability test -
Relevant ranges of test temperatures
▪ Room temperature (1 year)

▪ Heat: 40°C (6 months) and 45°C (3 months), 50°C (1month)
▪ Cold: 3 freeze-thaw-cycles -15°C/RT or -5°C/RT, and 4°C (1 month)
Quick methods which provide reliable predictions of

long term stability and temperature endurance of new formulations
are not available (so far).

Stability test -
Parameters to check
▪ Visual check
− Homogenous or separation
− Color
− Microscopic images (optional)
▪ pH
▪ Viscosity

Sustainable solutions for
skin care innovation –
Evonik Natural Emulsifiers
21st July, 2020

APS Distributor Training
12
Natural emulsifiers
O/W emulsifiers W/O emulsifiers
▪ TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB ▪ ISOLAN® 17 MB

▪ TEGO® Care 450 MB ▪ ISOLAN® GPS
▪ dermofeel® NC MB
▪ symbio®prot V MB
▪ symbio®muls GC MB
▪ TEGO® Care LTP MB

The Natural Cosmetics Market
Natural & organic cosmetics

Conventional cosmetics Nature-inspired cosmetics
certified and non-certified
Personal care market
Why natural certification standards?

▪ Clear definitions on natural cosmetics
▪ Differentiate natural and organic cosmetics from
60%
of UK adults who
less strictly defined “green” cosmetics have purchased
beauty or personal
▪ Create consumer trust care products try to
use ethical
▪ COSMOS: number of certified products in the market
beauty/grooming Market size natural and
doubled in 2018 1 brands where nature-inspired cosmetics
possible 2 global ~ 20-22 bn USD 1
Souce: 1 Naturkosmetik Verlag, 2018; 2 Mintel, 2019.

Natural certification standards and the ISO norm
COSMOS Natural NaTrue Natural Cosmetics ISO 16128

No certi-
fication
“Certified Common principles Content of the ISO norm
natural“
▪ Origin and processing procedures of materials 1) Definition of ingredient categories
▪ Composition of the end product regulated 2) Procedure on calculation of
▪ Storage, manufacturing, packaging and environmental policies renewable part of ingredients and
▪ Labelling and marketing natural origin content of formulations
No definition on naturality /
Published lists of certified and/or Certified ingredients, no published list sustainability / processing details
approved ingredients
Requirements for the amount of
Minimum 98% natural or nature- natural vs. derived natural
derived ingredients ▪ Natural content cn
substances in a cosmetic formulation
▪ Natural origin content cno
(petrochemical moieties limited to 2%) depending on formulation type
▪ Calculation including water
Souce: www.natrue.org, www.cosmos-standard.org, www.iso.org

Eco-friendly Skin Care Emulsions –
One of Today's Key Trends
▪ Eco-friendly skin care products are of ongoing

growing importance in the cosmetic industry
▪ At the same time formulation should match the

sensory and stability characteristic of products with
synthetic ingredients
-> Skin feel of is one of the main influencing factors for

cosmetic purchases and loyalty to care products
▪ Preference for specific sensory attributes in the

different regions of the world

Choose the appropriate emulsifier – Product Selection Tool
https://intobeauty.evonik.com/product_finder
▪ Readily available, up-to-date web-

based tool for tailormade emulsifier
selection
▪ Supports the differentiation between
the different emulsifiers of Evonik
Personal Care
▪ Enables formulators to easily identify
the most suitable emulsifier
according to their requirements
▪ Provides all relevant information in a
comprehensive way (e.g. MSDS,
registration status, suitable
formulation examples)

Choose the appropriate emulsifier – CAREtain® Toolbox
https://intobeauty.evonik.com/caretaintoolbox/
▪ Web application as communication and

information tool for our sales team and for the
customer
▪ Dynamic, ever-growing information system to
quantify, qualify and make tangible our
sustainability attitude
▪ Map the most important sustainability aspects
with impact on sourcing, processing and
application for our cosmetics ingredients
▪ Create transparency as well as a sustainable
edge regarding its products and raw materials
▪ Provide our clients with an instrument for
developing their own eco-optimized products

Choose the appropriate emulsifier – Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.2
https://intobeauty.evonik.com/sensory_kaleidoscope/
MAKING SKIN-FEEL VISIBLE

▪ Sensory Kaleidoscope facilitates the
development of new cosmetic products with
specific sensory properties by making the
process more direct, interactive, and easier.
Skin feel as the deciding factor
▪ Using the format of a sensory map, the
interactive tool reflects the effect of formulations
with different emulsifiers on skin feel. Based on
our broad product portfolio, experience in
application technology, and expertise in sensory
evaluation and statistical analysis, Sensory
Kaleidoscope enables the development of
formulations with the desired skin feel and helps
to turn current sensory trends directly into new
products.

Evonik selected portfolio of natural emulsifiers
Sensory maps within Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.2
Southeast Asia:
▪ tropical climate
▪ high relative
humidity, 70-90%
▪ dry season, rainy
season
Skin care solutions:

▪ light & quickly
absorbing formulas
▪ good absorption
but some residue
(soft & caring, anti-
aging)

Expertise in oleochemicals and silicones leads to optimized emulsifier
options for all types of formulation challenges
Technology Platforms Processes Emulsifier Families
Silanes Siloxanes
OMS- ABIL® EM W/O Emulsifiers
Organo-Silicones Emulsifiers ABIL® Care O/W Emulsifiers
Epoxides Polyether
Natural Fats & Oils

Cationic Emulsifiers VARISOFT® O/W Emulsifiers
(VARISOFT® TA 100 & VARISOFT® PATC)
Quaternization Agents
Natural Fats & Oils

TEGO® Alkanol O/W Emulsifiers
Alkoxylated Emulsifiers TEGO® Care O/W Emulsifiers
Epoxides
Bio-based Materials
Natural Fats & Oils ISOLAN® W/O Emulsifiers

TEGO® Care O/W Emulsifiers Petrochemical raw materials
AXOL® O/W Emulsifier
Natural Polyols Natural Emulsifiers dermofeel® O/W Emulsifiers Natural sourced raw materials
W/O Emulsifier
Evonik intermediates and products
symbio®muls O/W Emulsifier
Natural Proteins symbio®prot O/W Emulsifier

Emulsifiers landscape
No. Product name Cream Lotion Spray

W/O emulsifier
100.000
1 ABIL® EM 90 X X 2
2 ABIL® EM 180 X X 7
15
3 ABIL® EM 97 S X X
4 ISOLAN® GPS X X
5 ISOLAN® PDI X X
6 ISOLAN® GI 34 X 1 8
Molecular weight [g/mol]

7 ISOLAN® 17 MB X X X 10.000 3
5
O/W emulsifier
4
8 ABIL® Care XL 80 MB X X X = silicone based
9 AXOL® C 62 Pellets MB/ X X X
dermofeel® GCS SG = vegetable based
10 TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB X X 6 16 11
11 TEGO® Care APD 18 MB X = vegetable based, PEG-free
12 TEGO® Care 450 MB X X 1.000 13
12 10 = cationic
13 dermofeel® NC MB X X 18
14 symbio®muls GC MB X X
17 9 19
15 symbio®prot V MB X X 14 = liquid
16 TEGO® Care 165 X X = solid
17 TEGO® Care LTP MB X X X = paste
Cationic emulsifier 100
18 VARISOFT® TA 100 X X 0 5 10 15 20
19 VARISOFT® PATC X X HLB value

Various technologies are possible to obtain natural based emulsifiers
Sucrose ester Protein

HO
HO
OH
O O
O O O R
R O
O
HO OH
OH
Sorbitan ester Evonik (Poly-)Glycerin ester
O
OH
O R
available O
HO O R
HO OH
O Techno- OH n
logies
Methylglucoside Alkylglucoside
OH
O
O
HO
O R HO O
O
OH
HO O
HO
HO OCH 3 HO O R
OH OH
n
Evonik‘s portfolio of natural emulsifiers is based on different technologies

which allows the formulation of environmentally friendly concepts and more
Evonik natural based emulsifiers classified by technologies
Technology Trade name INCI

Glycerin esters AXOL® C 62 Pellets MB Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
symbio®muls GC MB Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol;
Glyceryl Caprylate
TEGIN® Pellets MB Glyceryl Stearate SE
dermofeel® easymuls plus Glyceryl Oleate Citrate
TEGIN® O V MB Glyceryl Oleate
Methylglucosides TEGO® Care 450 MB Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Sucrose esters TEGO® Care SE 121 MB Sucrose Stearate
Sorbitan esters TEGO® SMO V Sorbitan Oleate
Hydrolized Proteins symbio®prot V MB Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein; Sodium Citrate;
Magnesium Stearate; Xanthan Gum

Evonik natural based emulsifiers classified by technologies
Technology Trade name INCI

Polyglycerin esters ISOLAN® 17 MB Polyglyceryl-4
Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate;
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate;
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
ISOLAN® GPS Polyglyceryl-4
Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
ISOLAN® PDI MB Diisostearoyl Polyglycerl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
ISOLAN® GI 34 MB Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate; Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
TEGO® Care PSC 3 MB Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate
dermofeel® NC MB Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
TEGO® Care LTP MB Sorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate

TEGO® Care 450 MB TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB

ISOLAN® 17 MB Universal PEG-free Robust O/W emulsifier for
Natural W/O emulsifier for O/W creams challenging fluid
emulsifier with and lotions emulsions
outstanding
performance level
symbio®muls GC MB symbio®prot V MB
Ready-to-use O/W For natural O/W sprays
ISOLAN® GPS emulsifier blend providing and lotions with light &
W/O emulsifier for basic antimicrobial activity silky skin feel and low
lotions whitening
with a light skin feel dermofeel® NC MB
Versatile, cost-efficient TEGO® Care LTP MB
O/W emulsifier for creams Cold processable, cost-
and lotions efficient O/W emulsifier
Increasing HLB value

Typical performance differences:
polyglycerin esters vs. ethoxylates
▪ Polyglycerin esters can be optimized to form lamellar structures on their own
Hydrophilic part
Poylglycerin
for improved emulsion stability
(e.g. dermofeel® NC MB; TEGO® Care 450 MB, TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB)
▪ Polyglycerin esters are less temperature sensitive in their phase behavior

(e.g. no easy phase inversion at higher temperatures)
▪ Polyglycerin esters are more tolerant to electrolytes compared to ethoxylates
▪ Polyglycerin esters have a higher compatibility to oil phases of different polarity
Lipophilic part
Fatty acid
▪ Polyglycerin based emulsifiers show typically clearly better moisturization
properties on skin
Polyglycerin Ester

TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB – benefits & properties
Benefits Properties
▪ Versatile natural O/W emulsifier ▪ INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate;

▪ Gives outstanding formulation flexibility with Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
regard to ▪ Fully based on renewable sources
− high amounts of water soluble UV filters
▪ HLB value: ~ 13
− difficult to incorporate ingredients
(e.g. insect repellents, natural preservatives, ▪ Readily biodegradable
urea, electrolytes)
▪ China IECIC listed
− broad pH flexibility from 4.0 up to 8.5
▪ Especially suitable for formulating low-viscous ▪ Halal certified including MUI standards
systems like lotions and sprays
▪ Vegan according to the definition of the
▪ Flexible neutral sensory profile European Vegetarian Union
▪ Allows production of O/W emulsions based on
hot-cold process
RSPO-
▪ Provides moisturization properties 1106201

TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB
Sensory profile within Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.2

TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB – performance comparison results
for low-viscous systems
Test TEGO® Polyglyceryl-3 Glyceryl Polyglyceryl-10 Polyglyceryl-6 Sodium Potassium Glyceryl

system Care PBS 6 Methylglucose Stearate Stearate Distearate Stearoyl Cetyl Stearate,
MB Distearate Citrate Glutamate Phosphate Polyglyceryl-
6 Palmitate/
Succinate,
Cetearyl
Alcohol
Sunscreen
lotion SPF
50 incl.
insect
✓ X X X X X X X
repellent
Lotion with
2% water
soluble UV ✓ X ✓ X X X ✓ X TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB
filter
provides excellent
Lotion with
stabilization in low-
natural
preservative ✓ X X ✓ X X X X viscous emulsions with
system
various challenging
Lotion with
ingredients!!
1%
electrolyte
✓ X X (✓) X X X X

TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB – in vivo short-term moisturization test
10.0
Test formulations: Control (untreated skin)
Identical O/W emulsion
based on three different
8.0 emulsifiers
Number of panelists: 14
delta- Corneometer Units
Test area: inner forearm

6.0 Size of test area: 5 cm2
Amount of test formulation: 20 mg
Measurement: Corneometer CM 825 (an increase
of Corneometer units (CU) indicate
4.0
moisturizing properties)
Timepoints: Start and 2h after application
2.0
TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB provides

0.0 moisturization properties!
Control TEGO Care PBS 6 TEGO Care 450 Ceteareth-25

TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB – eco-efficient processing flexibility
▪ High performance emulsifiers like TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB

allow to use eco-efficient production processes such as:
hot/hot processing
processing temperature
− Hot/cold processing 75°C
− Emulsion concentrate processing

50°C water phases
− One pot processing oil phase
25°C
▪ Economic processes can be applied without influencing processing time
O/W emulsion
stability, droplet size and sensory parameters of the
emulsion system
hot/cold processing heating time
▪ Emulsion viscosity, appearance and sensory parameters
processing temperature
75°C
cooling time
of basic test formulations have been absolutely
comparable for systems based on
50°C
TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB.
25°C
processing time

TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB – formulation frame
Application form Oil phase TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB Consistency enhancer Thickener
Sprays 10 – 20% 2.5 – 4.0% 0.5 – 1.2%* 0.1 – 0.2% Carbomer ***
0.5 – 1.2%* 0.1 – 0.5% Xanthan Gum**
Lotions 10 – 30% 2.5 – 4.0% 0.5 – 1.5%* 0.1 – 0.3% Carbomer ***
0.0 – 3.0%* 0.2 – 0.5% Xanthan Gum**
Creams 20 – 35% 2.5 – 4.0% 1.5 – 2.5%* 0.1 – 0.2% Carbomer ***
1.5 – 2.5%* 0.8 – 1.0% Xanthan Gum**
Remarks:
▪ * TEGIN® M Pellets MB / TEGO® Alkanol 1618 or Stearyl Alcohol (50 : 50)
▪ ** Xanthan Gum: e.g. Keltrol CG-SFT (CP Kelco)
▪ *** e.g. TEGO® Carbomer 341 ER

Protecting Skin Defence Mist
HB 8/18-7
Phase Ingredients w/w%
3.00
(Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate; Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate)
Processing
1. Disperse Gellan Gum in water while stirring. Heat to approx. 85 °C
TEGOSOFT® OER MB (Oleyl Erucate) 3.00 and keep temperature while stirring for 30 minutes.
A 2. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 75 °C.
3. Add phase A to phase B with stirring.
TEGOSOFT® SH (Stearyl Heptanoate) 1.00 4. Homogenize until uniform.
5. Add phase C and homogenize for a short time.
TEGOSOFT® CR MB (Cetyl Ricinoleate) 0.50 6. Cool down with gentle stirring and add phase D below 40 °C.
7. Cool down with stirring to approx. 30 °C and adjust pH value
dermosoft® GMCY MB (Glyceryl Caprylate) 0.30 to approx. 5.5 with phase E.
Water 51.01
B
Glycerin 0.75 Remarks
Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco)* 0.20 Viscosity: 6 Pas (Brookfield RVT, sp. 4, 5 rpm)
Natural content cn (incl. water, ISO 16128): 82.2%
Water 30.00 Natural origin content cno (incl. water, ISO 16128): 99.9%
C
Gellan Gum (KELCOGEL CG-HA, CP Kelco)* 0.04 Microbiological safety: Challenge test passed
NeoPlanta® Withania
2.50
(Withania somnifera Root Extract; Glycerin; Water)
D
dermosoft® 1388 (Glycerin; Aqua; Sodium Levulinate;
3.50
Sodium Anisate)
E Sodium Hydroxide (20 % sol. in water)* q.s.
* Not considered for calculation of cn and cno
Feel the sun spray SPF 50
ST 18/18-15
Phase Ingredients w/w % dermofeel® sensolv MB provides
▪ low whitening
(Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate)
4.00 ▪ relatively low stickiness and
▪ a light skin feel
Processing
dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isoamyl Laurate) 8.00
1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 85°C.
A Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S, BASF) 6.00 2. Add phase C to B.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 6.00 3. Add phase A to phase B/C with stirring.1)
4. Homogenize.
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00 5. Cool with gentle stirring to approx. 60 °C and add phase D.
Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.00 6. Homogenize for a short time.
® 7. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase E below 40 °C.
dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO 8. Adjust the pH value to 6.8 - 7.2. Stir well.
0.20
(Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil) 1)Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must
Water 48.45 be added without stirring.
B Glycerin 3.00
Remarks
EDTA 0.05
Viscosity: ~7 Pa∙s (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 4, 5 rpm).
C Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) 0.50 Microbiological safety: Challenge test passed
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 3.00 SPF: 54.3, UVA-Balance: 43%
D Tromethamine (Trisaminomethane) 1.32 (calculated values, BASF sunscreen simulator)
Water 10.68
E Verstatil® BOB (Benzyl Alcohol; Caprylyl Glycol; Benzoic Acid) 1.20
Perfume 0.10
NATURAL MANGO MASSAGE OIL-GEL
L098-18.3-1218
DEVELOPED ACCORDING TO QUALITATIVE AND

▪ High viscous oil gel with double transformation
QUANTITATIVE REQUIREMENTS OF COSMOS NATURAL
effect: Oil gel → Liquid massage oil → Milk
▪ Oil gel can remain on the skin or be rinsed off
▪ Translucent gel texture created by the emulsifier
TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB in a lipophilic matrix
▪ Adjustment of refractive index with very low
amount of water
▪ Multifunctional wetting agent dermosoft® GMCY
MB for protective antimicrobial protection activity
▪ 2-in-1 antioxidant dermofeel® TocoBalance for
skin and ingredient protection
TRANSFORMATION:
THIS OIL GEL
SURPRISES WITH
DOUBLE
TRANSFORMATION

NATURAL MANGO MASSAGE OIL-GEL
L098-18.3-1218
DEVELOPED ACCORDING TO QUALITATIVE AND PROCESSING

QUANTITATIVE REQUIREMENTS OF COSMOS NATURAL 1. Heat phase A up to 78°C under medium stirring.
2. Heat phase B up to 60°C.
3. Emulsify phase B into Phase A with droplets under high
stirring.
4. Add phase C under stirring.
SPECIFICATION
Appearance: Yellow, translucent gel
Viscosity Brookfield (21°C): TF; Speed 10 rpm: 130000 -
180000 mPas
Stability test: passed
Natural content cn: 53.1%,

Natural origin content cno: 100% (incl. water, ISO 16128)

TEGO® Care 450 MB – benefits & properties
Benefits Properties
▪ Mild, PEG-free emulsifier for O/W creams ▪ INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3

and lotions for all types of cosmetic oils Methylglucose Distearate
▪ Most robust natural emulsifier for creams ▪ Based on renewable sources
RSPO-
1106201
▪ Provides moisturizing properties and
support of water resistance ▪ HLB value: ~ 12
▪ Shows high compatibility with actives, ▪ Usage concentration: 2 - 3%

significant amounts of electrolytes and
▪ Readily biodegradable
critical ingredients
▪ Stable emulsions from pH 4.5 up to 8.5 ▪ China IECIC listed
▪ Emulsions with high heat and freeze ▪ Halal certified including MUI standards
stability are possible to formulate
▪ Vegan according to the definition of
the European Vegetarian Union

TEGO® Care 450 MB

Water resistance: in vitro water resistancy testing
Test design:
• Test emulsions with 5% TiO2 are
spread evenly onto glass plates
• Drying time 20 minutes
• Glass plates are partly immersed
in water
• Without any movement the different
behavior of the test emulsions
can be observed
Ceteareth-25 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate as lipid emulsifier provides better water

resistance properties than an ethoxylated emulsifier.

TEGO® Care 450 MB – formulation frame
Application form Oil phase* TEGO® Care 450 Consistency enhancer** Thickener
Lotions 10 – 20% 2.0 – 2.5% 0.0 – 1.0% 0.15 – 0.25% Carbomer ***
0.0 – 2.0% 0.2 – 0.5% Xanthan Gum****
Creams 20 – 40% 2.0 – 3.0% 1.0 – 4.0% 0.2% Carbomer ***
2.0 – 4.0% 0.5 – 1.0% Xanthan Gum****
2.0 – 5.0% -
Remarks:
▪ * Paraffin oils, ester oils or triglycerides
** Lotions: TEGO® Alkanol 1618 or Stearyl Alcohol
Creams: TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) / TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) or Cetyl Alcohol or
fatty acid (C18 or C16) 2:1
▪ *** e.g. TEGO® Carbomer 141
▪ **** Xanthan Gum: e.g. Keltrol CG-SFT (CP Kelco)

Facial Moisturizer for Men
JS 11/17-2
TEGO® Care 450 MB (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) 3.00 ▪ Light but caring skin feel
TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 1.00 ▪ Addressing men’s needs for quick absorption due to
TEGO® Feel C 10 and TEGO® SP 13-1
▪ With anti-aging benefit
TEGOSOFT® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 4.00 Processing
A TEGOSOFT® MM MB (Myristyl Myristate) 1.00 1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 75°C.
dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isoamyl Laurate) 4.00 2. Add phase A to B with stirring. 1)
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 4.00 3. Homogenize.
ABIL® 350 (Dimethicone, 350 mPa·s) 1.00 4. Cool with gentle stirring to approx. 60 °C and add phase C.
5. Homogenize for a short time.
TEGO® Feel C 10 (Cellulose) 1.00
6. Cool with gentle stirring.
TEGO® SP 13-1 (Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) 1.50 7. Add phase D below 40 °C and adjust the pH value to 6.2-6.8.
Water 59.90 8. Add phase E and F and stir well.
Glycerin 3.00
1)Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be
B SKINMIMICS® (Ceteareth-25; Glycerin; Cetyl Alcohol; Behenic Acid; Cholesterol; added without stirring.
Ceramide NP; Ceramide NS; Ceramide EOS ; Ceramide EOP; Ceramide AP; 3.00
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine; Caprooyl Sphingosine)
Remarks
Caffeine 0.50
Viscosity: ~27 Pa∙s (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 93, 10 rpm)
TEGO® Carbomer 141 (Carbomer) 0.20
C Microbiological safety: Challenge test passed
TEGOSOFT® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 0.80
D Sodium Hydroxide (10% in water) q.s.
E Alcohol 5.00
F Verstatil® PC (Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol) 1.00

dermofeel® NC MB – benefits & properties
Benefits Properties
▪ Suitable for all types of cosmetic O/W creams ▪ INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate;
and lotions with a special focus on natural Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
based systems
▪ Fully based on renewable sources
▪ Efficient emulsifier with excellent cost-in-use
properties ▪ HLB value: approx. 11
▪ Fulfills the requirements for formulating natural
based systems ▪ Easy-to-handle, pelletized product
− Suitable for formulations using organic acids ▪ Vegan according to the definition of the
as “natural” preservatives (pH 4.5 – 5.5) European Vegetarian Union
− Shows the ability to form stable O/W creams
and lotions without polyacrylate based ▪ Halal certified including MUI standards
thickeners
▪ In general possible to be used for emulsions at
pH 3.5 – 8.5 ▪ China IECIC listed
▪ Caring skin feel and a flexible absorption profile RSPO-
1106201

dermofeel® NC MB

dermofeel® NC MB – in vivo short-term moisturization test
Test formulations: Control (untreated) + 3 O/W emulsions

with different emulsifiers
Number of panelists: 19
Number of test fields: 152 (4 on each arm, 22-23/test formulation)
Test area: inner forearm
Size of test area: 5 cm2
Amount of test formulation: 20 mg (4 mg/cm2)
Measurement: Corneometer CM 825 (an increase of

Corneometer units (CU) indicate
moisturizing properties)
* = compared to start, + compared to control, + compared to dermofeel NC, */+/+ p < 0.05, **/++,p< 0.01, *** p < 0.001 Timepoints: Start and 2h after application
▪ Significant increase of skin moisturization with dermofeel NC® MB compared to untreated control and to C14-22 Alcohols; C12-20 Alkyl
Glucoside.
▪ dermofeel NC® MB provides also higher moisturization properties compared to Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate.
dermofeel NC® MB provides moisturization properties!

dermofeel® NC MB – ideal for reformulating emulsions
▪ Provides benefits for formulating naturally

like:
− Suitable for formulations using organic

acids as “natural” preservatives Similar skin feel and sensory compared to
(pH 4.5 – 5.5)
− Shows the ability to form stable O/W

creams and lotions without polyacrylate
+ known PEG containing O/W emulsifier like
e.g. Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate
based thickeners
− In general possible to be used for

emulsions at pH 3.5 – 8.5
dermofeel® NC MB - a solution for reformulating formulations in a natural way

Emulsifier comparison
Everyday Soft Cream (SZ 12/19-5 / -6)
Phase Ingredients w/w-% w/w-%

Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate 3.00 Processing
dermofeel® NC MB (Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate 1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 75°C.
3.00
Citrate) 2. Add phase A to B with stirring. 1)
TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.00 2.00 3. Homogenize.
A
4. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C below 40 °C.
Stearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 15.00 15.00 must be added without stirring.
Tocopherol 0.10 0.10 Remarks

Water 72.00 72.00 pH value: ~ 5.5
Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Focus: same emulsifier usage concentration
B
Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CPKelco) 0.20 0.20
Carrageenan (GENUVISCO Carrageenan CG-131, CPKelco) 0.20 0.20
dermosoft® 1388 eco (Glycerin; Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Sodium
C 3.50 3.50
Anisate)
Viscosity (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 4, 5 rpm) [Pa·s] 12 12

Emulsifier comparison
Everyday Soft Cream (SZ 12/19-5 / -6)
▪ dermofeel® NC MB provides less

whitening/foaming during application
▪ The emulsions with dermofeel® NC MB

resp. Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100
Stearate provide a very similar skin
feel

dermofeel® NC MB – formulation frame
Application Oil phase dermofeel® NC Consistency Thickener

form MB enhancer
Creams 15 - 45% 2.5 - 5.0% 3.0 – 4.0%1) ---
0.0 – 3.5%1) 0.1 – 0.5% Xanthan Gum3
0.0 – 3.5%1) 0.1 – 0.2% TEGO® Carbomer 140
Lotions 10 – 25% 1.5 – 3.0% 0.0 – 0.5%2) 0.1 – 0.3% TEGO® Carbomer 141
0.0 – 0.5%2) 0.3 – 0.5% Xanthan Gum3
Remarks:
1) TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) / TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol)
(70 : 30 or 50 : 50)
2) e.g. TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol)
3 Xanthan Gum: e.g. Keltrol CG-SFT (CP Kelco)

Natural O/W Body Lotion
H 3/18-8
Phase Ingredients w/w% Processing

dermofeel® NC MB 1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 75°C.
5.00
(Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate)
2. Add phase A to B with stirring.1)
3. Homogenize.
A dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isoamyl Laurate) 4.00 4. Cool with gentle stirring.
TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 0.10 5. Add phase C below 40 °C.
TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 0.10 6. Homogenize.
7. Adjust the pH value to ~5.5.
1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel
Water 80.30 first, phase B must be added without stirring.
B
Glycerin 3.00 Remarks
Verstatil® SL non GMO 1.50 Emulsion viscosity: 25 Pas
C
(Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Potassium Sorbate) (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 93, 10 rpm)
Microbiological safety: Challenge test passed

symbio®prot V MB – benefits & properties
Benefits Properties
▪ Light, non-greasy and silky skin feel ▪ INCI name: Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein;
Sodium Citrate; Magnesium Stearate; Xanthan
▪ Skin friendliness Gum
▪ Low whitening effect of natural ▪ Protein-based, natural, unique emulsifier blend
cosmetics ▪ Vegetable protein is produced from pea (Pisum
▪ For sprays to lotions sativum)
▪ Addition to water or oil phase ▪ Usage concentration: 2.0 - 4.0%
▪ For cold, hot-cold or hot-hot processed ▪ HLB value: ~ 13
emulsions ▪ Powder
▪ Enables RSPO certified market products ▪ Readily biodegradable RSPO-
1106201
▪ ISO 16128 Natural indices1: In= 0.2; Ino= 1.0
▪ Vegan according to the definition of the
European Vegetarian Union

symbio®prot V MB within the Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.2
symbio®prot V MB
enables formulating
particularly light and
soft skin care products.
Their sensory profiles
are distinguished by a
silky afterfeel
comparable to silicone
O/W emulsifiers.
Skin friendliness of symbio®prot V MB
Epicutaneous patch test (conducted by an external test institute)
▪ n = 50 20% aqueous solution RESULT:

▪ Tested skin types: of symbio®prot V MB No irritation effects on the skin -
27 healthy, 4 eczema, 3 allergy, on healthy skin as well as on sensitive
16 subjects sensitive skin skin, eczema and allergy skin
symbio®prot V MB is very skin friendly.

The emulsions with symbio®prot V MB show a good compatibility with different skin types.

Formulation guidance for symbio®prot V MB
FORMULATION FRAME RECOMMENDATIONS IMPORTANT MANUFACTURING ADVICE
▪ Recommended usage concentration: ▪ The emulsion viscosity can be adjusted ▪ Without adjustment, the pH of the final
2 - 4% by the dosage of symbio®prot V MB. emulsion will be around 8. For pH
▪ Recommended formulation pH: 4.5-7.0 Higher usage levels lead to higher adjustment, it is important to avoid high
▪ For oil phases from 10 – 30% viscosities due to the Xanthan Gum punctual acid levels which lead to the
which is part of the product denaturation of the protein derivatives.
▪ Compatible with diverse emollients and
composition. Thus, use diluted acidic solution (10%
vegetable oils
▪ Can be dispersed either in the water or aq.) for pH adjustment and add it
▪ Additional stabilization for very polar or slowly while stirring.
in the oil phase.
unipolar oil phases addition with
▪ For obtaining proper homogenization
consistency enhancers (e.g. up to 2%
high shear forces are recommended.
TEGIN® M Pellets MB or TEGO®
The use of a classical homogenizer
Alkanol 1618)
(e.g. Ultra Turrax) will not damage the
▪ Not recommended for high viscous protein derivatives. Higher shear forces
systems due to inhomogeneous are recommended when applying cold
product appearance processing
▪ Incompatible with cationic substances
and Zinc PCA

Quickly absorbing silky body spray
H 31/18-6
Phase Ingredients w/w% ▪ symbio®prot V MB provides a silky & light skin feel
similar to silicone O/W emulsifiers
symbio®prot V MB (Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein; Sodium ▪ Fast absorption during application
2.00
Citrate; Magnesium Stearate; Xanthan Gum)
▪ Compatible with all kinds of cosmetic oils
dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isamyl Laurate) 6.00
A
TEGOSOFT® DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 7.00 Processing
TEGOSOFT® P (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4.80 1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 75°C.
Verstatil® BOB (Benzyl Alcohol; Caprylyl Glycol; Benzoic Acid) 1.30 2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring.1)
Glycerin 3.00 3. Homogenize.
B 4. Cool down to 30°C with gentle stirring.
Water 75.90
5. Adjust pH to 7.0 by slowly adding citric acid (10% aq.) while stirring.
1) Important:
If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added
without stirring.
Remarks
Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, spindle 4, 5 rpm, (21°C): 400 mPas
Microbiological safety: Challenge test ongoing

symbio®muls GC MB – benefits & properties
Benefits Properties
▪ Unique and ready-to-use balanced blend ▪ INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate;
of anionic emulsifier, consistency Cetearyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Caprylate
enhancer and wetting agent leading to ▪ Usage concentration: 3.0 - 6.0%
improved emulsifying properties
▪ HLB value: ~ 11
▪ For various viscosities: from low viscous
lotions to cream and butter ▪ Pellets
▪ Smooth skin feel ▪ Vegan according to the definition of the

European Vegetarian Union
▪ Suitable for natural cosmetics & “clean”
cosmetics ▪ Natural origin index (ISO 16128) Ino= 1.0
▪ Basic antimicrobial activity enabling ▪ Readily biodegradable

reduced usage level of classical ▪ China IECIC listed
preservatives RSPO-
1106201

symbio®muls GC MB

symbio®muls GC MB – Your opportunities
FACE CARE BABY & BODY CARE
▪ Natural based creams ▪ Natural based body care

▪ Eye creams ▪ Body lotions
▪ Night care creams ▪ Body butters
▪ Facial mask ▪ Body scrubs
▪ Facial peeling ▪ Hand cream
▪ Foot cream
▪ Body mask

Formulation guidance for symbio®muls GC MB
FORMULATION FRAME RECOMMENDATIONS IMPORTANT MANUFACTURING ADVICE
▪ Recommended usage concentration: ▪ The emulsion viscosity can be adjusted ▪ symbio®muls GC MB can be used for
3 - 6% by the dosage of symbio®muls GC emulsification at lower process
▪ Recommended formulation pH: 5.0-7.5 MB. Higher usage levels lead to higher temperatures. Water and oil phase can
▪ For oil phases from 15 – 40% viscosities due to Cetearyl Alcohol be emulsified down to 50°C. In this
which is part of the product case, the homogenization time has to
▪ Viscosities from 5.000-70.000 mPas
composition. be prolonged to ensure proper
possible
homogenization.
▪ Compatible with diverse emollients and
vegetable oils
▪ No additional co-emulsifiers or
consistency enhancers needed
▪ Additional viscosity increase by adding
consistency enhancers (TEGIN® M
Pellets MB or TEGO® Alkanol 1618) or
gelling agents
▪ Incompatible with cationic substances

Natural Orange Lime Body Butter
L014-37.7B-0618
Phase Ingredients w/w% ▪ Soft body butter with velvet skin feel supported by
Aqua 58.30 rich essential oils
▪ Long-lasting moisturizing activity
Glycerin 3.00
A
dermofeel® PA-3 (Sodium Phytate; Aqua; Alcohol) 0.10 Processing
®
dermosoft 1388 eco (Glycerin; Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Sodium Anisate) 3.50 1. Mix phase A and phase B separately and heat up to 78°C.
A1 Xanthan Gum 0.40 Disperse phase A1 in phase A until completely dissolved.
symbio®muls GC MB 2. Emulsify phase B into phase A/A1 while stirring. Homogenize
6.00 for approx. 1 min. using an Ultra-Turrax.
(Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Cetearyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Caprylate)
TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 2.00 3. Start to cool down under medium stirring. Add phase C below
30°C.
Olus Oil (Softigen Pura, IOI Oleo) 3.00
4. Adjust pH-value if necessary.
Cera Alba 2.00
B
Remarks
Pistacia Vera Seed Oil (Pistachio Nut Oil, refined, Henry Lamotte) 5.00
pH-value: 5.0 - 5.5
Viscosity (Brookfield (21°C): TF; Speed 10 rpm): 80000 -
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter 5.00 100000 mPas
Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Oil 0.20 Natural content cn (incl. water, ISO 16128): 67.6%
®
dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO (Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) 0.50 Natural origin content cno (incl. water, ISO 16128): 100.0%
1 Not considered for calculation of cn and cno
1
C Parfum q.s.
Microbiological safety: challenge test passed

TEGO® Care LTP MB – Benefits & Properties
INCI Sorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate
Characteristics Mild PEG-free O/W emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials
HLB Value approx. 11

Lotions: 1.5 – 2.0 %
Recommended use
Sprays: 1.5 – 2.5 %
level
Creams: 1.5 – 2.5 %
Physical Form Liquid emulsifier*
▪ Cost effective liquid emulsifier

▪ No co-emulsifiers needed
Complying with ▪ Easy-to-handle (h(25 °C) < 3 000 mPas)
▪ Cold processing of lotions and sprays
Ecocert ▪ Hot processing of creams
standards ▪ For emulsions in a pH range of preferably 5 - 9
▪ EO-free & preservative free
▪ Provides a pleasant light & caring skin feel
*Product solidifies at temperatures below 15 °C (reversible at T > 15 °C)
For better handling and dosage of the emulsifier, processing temperatures above 16 °C are recommended

Product Idea: Combining Performance, Convenience and Cost Efficacy
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate & Dilauryl

Sorbitan Laurate
Citrate
Highly efficient emulsifier

Well known
mix developed for
liquid emulsifier
PIC emulsion systems
TEGO® Care LTP MB
An efficient and versatile

cold processable O/W emulsifier

TEGO® Care LTP MB

Emulsions Prepared With and Without Homogenizer –
Comparison of Droplet Size and Viscosity
F 8/08-3 (simple stirring) F 8/08-3 (homogenized)
Visually both emulsions

have a homogeneous
appearance (white colour)
Stronger homogenization
leads to smaller emulsion
Droplets and lower viscosity.
20 mm 20 mm
0.2 % TEGO® Carbomer 140/141 0.2 % TEGO® Carbomer 140/141
h= 21 Pas* h= 14 Pas*
Back
(Brookfield RVT, Sp. 4 / 5 rpm) (Brookfield RVT, Sp. 4 / 5 rpm)

TEGO® Care LTP MB – Formulation Range
Consistency
Oil phase TEGO® Care LTP Polymeric Stabilizers Oils, fats
Enhancers
Lotions
5 - 30 % 1.5 - 2.0 % - 0.3 - 0.5 % 1) ad 5 - 30 %
Sprays
8 - 20 % 1.5 - 2.5 % - 0.1 - 0.3 % 2) ad 8 - 20 %
Creams
20 - 30 % 1.5 - 2.5 % 6.0 - 8.0 % 3) 0.1 - 0.2 % 4) ad 20 - 30%
1) 3) TEGO® Alkanol 18
e. g. TEGO® Carbomer 140 0.15 % e. g. 3.5 %
TEGO® Carbomer 141 0.15 % TEGIN® M Pellets 3.5 %
Xanthan Gum 0.10 %
4) e. g. TEGO® Carbomer 134 0.10 %
2) e. g. TEGO® Carbomer 141 0.10 %
TEGO® Carbomer 341 ER 0.10 %

Light O/W Cream
H 10/18-4

TEGO® Care LTP MB 1. Disperse phase B intensively.
2.00 2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring.1)
(Sorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate)
3. Homogenize.
4. Add phase C and stir well.
A dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isoamyl Laurate) 4.00
5. Adjust the pH value to 6.2-6.8.
1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B
Verstatil® PC (Phenoxyethanol; Caprylyl Glycol) 1.00
must be added without stirring.
Dimethicone (5 mPas) 1.00
Water 83.60
Remarks
Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, spindle 4, 5 rpm): ~15 Pas
Glycerin 3.00
B Microbiological safety: Challenge test passed
TEGO® Carbomer 341 ER
0.40
(Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)
C Sodium Hydroxide (10% in water) q.s.

ISOLAN® 17 MB – benefits & properties
Benefits Properties
▪ Provides access to new types of natural cosmetics ▪ INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/
Polyhydroxystearate/ Sebacate; Caprylic/ Capric
▪ Offers a broad texture profile for e.g. sprays, lotions,
Triglyceride; Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate; Diisostearoyl
creams or balms
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
▪ Enables variable sensory characteristics
▪ Polyglyceryl-based W/O emulsifier
▪ Shows outstanding formulation flexibility with regard to
▪ HLB value: approx. 5
− emulsion viscosity
▪ Easy-to-handle, liquid product
− oil phase content (viscosity approx. 2000 mPas at 25°C)
− difficult to incorporate ingredients (e.g. UV filters, ▪ 70% active matter, 30% Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
natural preservatives, urea, electrolytes)
▪ Vegan according to the definition of the European
− stabilization of challenging systems (e.g. aerosols, Vegetarian Union
natural quick-breaking systems)
▪ Halal certified including MUI standards
▪ High molecular weight enables superior performance
compared to other non-silicone emulsifiers
▪ Allows production of W/O emulsions based on cold-cold
process RSPO-
1106201
*MB = mass balanced

ISOLAN® 17 MB

ISOLAN® 17 MB – performance comparison against oleo-based benchmarks
Overview about test results in challenging systems

ISOLAN® 17 MB – performance comparison against silicone-based benchmarks
Overview about test results in challenging systems

ISOLAN® 17 MB – formulation frame
Application form Oil phase* ISOLAN® 17 MB Stabilizers**
Sprays 30 – 45% 3.0 – 5.0% 0.2 – 1.0% *: Ester oils, natural triglycerides, mineral
Lotions 20 – 30% 2.0 – 4.5% 0.2 – 1.0% oils or silicone oils (up to 70% silicone
oil in oil phase)
Creams 15 – 25% 2.5 – 4.5% 0.5 – 1.5% **: Hydrogenated Castor Oil/ Beeswax or
Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Microcrystalline
Quick-Breaking 8 – 14% 1.5 – 3.0% 0.0 – 0.5% Wax or Zinc Stearate for cold-processing
Water phase:
▪ Electrolytes: approx. 1.5 – 3.0% Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate, Sodium Chloride or Zinc Sulfate Heptahydrate
▪ Polyalcohols: 2.0 - 7.0%
Processing hints:
▪ Due to the high molecular weight of ISOLAN® 17, the addition of a low-molecular weight co-emulsifier (e.g. 0.5 –
1.0% ISOLAN® GO 33) can accelerate the water uptake during processing.
▪ Intensive homogenization is recommended to prepare W/O sprays.
▪ Gentle homogenization is needed for processing W/O quick-breaking emulsions.
▪ In color cosmetic systems, the emulsifier is dispersing the pigments in addition to its emulsion stabilization effect.
Hence, a sligthly higher emulsifier use level is recommended.
Deeply Moisturizing Lotion
H 24/16-8

Technology Spotlights:
ISOLAN® 17 MB (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/
Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate; Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride; 2.90
▪ The liquid emulsifier ISOLAN® 17 MB can be used
Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate; Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate) for creating emulsions based on cold-processing.
▪ ISOLAN® 17 MB is compatible with challenging
TEGOSOFT® DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 9.60 active ingredients such as Lactic Acid.
A
TEGOSOFT® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 7.00
TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 2.00
Zinc Stearate 0.50 Processing

1. Disperse phase A with Ultra Turrax.
Water 71.70
2. Add phase B to phase A while stirring.
Glycerin 3.00 3. Add phase C.
B 4. Homogenize.
Zinc Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50
LACTIL® (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Remarks

1.00
Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid) Viscosity: 20 Pa*s (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. C, 10 rpm)
C ®
Verstatil PC (Phenoxyethanol; Caprylyl Glycol) 0.80 Microbiological stability: challenge test passed
Z Perfume q.s

ISOLAN® GPS – benefits & properties
Benefits Properties
▪ Provides a pleasant, non-oily skin feel ▪ INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/

▪ Formulation of W/O lotions with an Polyhydroxystearate/ Sebacate
extremely low oil phase content possible ▪ Fully based on renewable sources
(down to 18 - 20%) ▪ Yellow, clear to slightly turbid liquid
▪ Excellent emulsion stabilization ▪ HLB value: ~ 5
properties even at low emulsifier
concentrations (2 - 3%) ▪ Usage concentration: 2 - 3%
▪ No co-emulsifiers needed ▪ Palm oil-free
▪ Compatible with silicones
▪ Can also be used as co-emulsifier to
reduce overall viscosity of an existing ▪ Vegan according to the definition of
formula the European Vegetarian Union
▪ Cold processable ▪ Halal certified including MUI standards

ISOLAN® GPS

Comparison of light W/O emulsions varying the oil phase content
1 2 3
Phase Ingredients
[w/w %] [w/w %] [w/w %]
Emulsifier 3.00 3.00 3.00 Processing
Cyclopentasiloxane 8.70 10.70 12.70 1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 °C.

2. Add phase B (80 °C or room temperature) slowly while stirring.
TEGOSOFT® DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 6.00 6.00 6.00 3. Homogenize for a short time.
4. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 °C and homogenize again.
A TEGOSOFT® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 2.80 2.80 2.80
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25 0.25 0.25
Microcrystalline Wax 0.25 0.25 0.25
Total oil phase content 21.00 23.00 25.00
Glycerin 2.00 2.00 2.00
B Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50 1.50 1.50
Water 75.50 73.50 71.50
Z Preservative, perfume q.s. q.s. q.s.

Combining stability, low viscosity and lightness
rpm)
30
5/10rpm)
No freeze stability
spindle5/10
25
RV DV-I, spindle
No freeze stability ISOLAN® GPS

20
[Pas] (Brookfield
Polyglcyeryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
15 PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
[Pas] (Brookfield
No freeze stability
10
Viscosity Viscosity
Stable emulsion with same viscosity

No freeze stability No freeze stability obtainable with reduced oil phase content
No freeze stability („lighter“ skin feel & reduced costs)!
5 Oil separation at r.t. & 45° C
0
21% 22% 23% 24% 25%
Oil phase content

ISOLAN® GPS – formulation range
Application form Oil phase* ISOLAN® GPS Stabilizers**
Lotions 18 – 30 % 2.0 – 3.0% 0.2 – 1.0 %

Soft creams 16 – 25 % approx. 3.0% 0.5 – 1.5 %
*Silicone oil, mineral oils, ester oils or natural triglycerides

**Hydrogenated Castor Oil/ Beeswax or Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Microcrystalline Wax or Zinc Stearate
Water phase:
Electrolytes: approx. 1.5 % Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate or 2.0 % Sodium Chloride
Polyalcohols: 2.0 - 5.0 %

Light W/O Body Lotion
H 16/17-9
Phase Ingredients w/w % Technology Spotlights:

▪ Quick absorbing lotion with a pleasant dry after feel.
ISOLAN® GPS (Polyglyceryl-4
2.50
Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate) ▪ ISOLAN® GPS stabilizes W/O formulations with very
low oil content leading to a light skin feel.
Microcrystalline Wax (Paracera W 80, Paramelt B.V.) 0.10
▪ The non-oily after feel is favored for sun or face care.
A
TEGOSOFT® M (Isopropyl Myristate) 6.30

Processing
Verstatil® PC (Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol) 1.00 1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 °C.
Glycerin 3.00 2. Add phase B (80 °C or room temperature) slowly while stirring.
3. Homogenize.
B Zinc Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50
Water 75.50 Remarks
Z Perfume q.s. Emulsion viscosity: 20 Pas (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 5, 10 rpm)

Microbiological safety: challenge test passed

Natural emulsifiers
O/W emulsifiers W/O emulsifiers
▪ TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB ▪ ISOLAN® 17 MB

▪ TEGO® Care 450 MB ▪ ISOLAN® GPS
▪ dermofeel® NC MB
▪ symbio®prot V MB
▪ symbio®muls GC MB
▪ TEGO® Care LTP MB

Concepts
Technical solutions

Concepts / technical solutions
https://intobeauty.evonik.com/

Emollients
Sensory Additives
21st July, 2020

APS distributor training
82
1. Basic
properties of
emollients &
“Emollient Chart”

The Emollient Chart
5 properties at a glance

TEGOSOFT® cosmetic waxes
TEGOSOFT® CR MB TEGOSOFT® MM MB TEGOSOFT® SH Depending of melting

temperature and
▪ INCI: Cetyl Ricinoleate ▪ INCI: Myristyl Myristate ▪ INCI: Stearyl viscosity cosmetic
Heptanoate waxes (solid lipophilic
▪ Melting point: ~28.8 °C ▪ Melting point: ~41.5 °C emollient) can
▪ Enzymatically produced ▪ Enzymatically produced ▪ Melting point: ~25.4 °C influence the texture
▪ Ecocert and COSMOS ▪ Ecocert and COSMOS ▪ Fully based on and skin feel of
certified certified renewable sources formulations differently.
▪ Natural origin index ▪ Natural origin index ▪ Natural origin index
(ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0 (ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0 (ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0
▪ Halal certified ▪ Halal certified ▪ Can provide a cooling
effect
▪ CFDA: yes ▪ CFDA: yes
▪ CFDA: yes
▪ Recommended usage ▪ Recommended usage
concentration: 1 – 5% concentration: 1 – 5% ▪ Recommended usage
concentration: 1 – 10%1)
1) not recommended for eye care applications

TEGOSOFT® cosmetic waxes –
Differential scanning calorimetry
In case the melting process takes place between ambient and skin temperature, a cooling effect is perceived if the melting
enthalpy is sufficiently high.
Ambient temp. Mean skin temp.
Melting point Melting
Product name
[°C] enthalpy [J/g]
TEGOSOFT® MM MB
TEGOSOFT® MM MB (Myristyl Myristate) 41.5 206.5
TEGOSOFT® CR MB (Cetyl Ricinoleate) 28.8 134.7
TEGOSOFT® SH (Stearyl Heptanoate) 25.4 176.4
TEGOSOFT® SH
▪ TEGOSOFT® MM MB melting point is too high for cooling effect
▪ TEGOSOFT® CR MB melting enthalpy is too low for cooling
effect
▪ Only TEGOSOFT® SH balance of melting point and high melting
enthalphy will result in a cooling sensation

TEGOSOFT® SH
Transformation Cooling Balm (CHN CT 102-0008)
Phase Ingredients w/w% ▪ Solid-like consistency is obtained by the

combination of waxes and a high internal water
A ABIL® EM 180 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) 0.40 content.
TEGOSOFT® SH (Stearyl Heptanoate) 8.00 ▪ The wax TEGOSOFT® SH contributes to a
perceived cooling effect.
Cyclopentasiloxane /Cyclohexasiloxane1 12.00 ▪ Application examples: after sun cooling balm,
on-the-go refreshing sticks, body butter
Ozokerite (KahlWax 4511N, Kahl GmbH) 5.00
Microcrystalline Wax 1.00 Processing
1. Heat phases A and B to 80 °C separately.
B Water 60.40 2. Add phase B into phase A at 240 rpm within 2 min.
3. Then add phase Z and homogenize at 1000 rpm for 2 min.
Glycerin 3.00
1,3-Butylene Glycol 10.00 Remarks
Viscosity: solid
Sodium Chloride 0.20 Formulation was tested on emulsion stability with 0.70%
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010, Schülke &
Z Preservative q.s. Mayr GmbH).
Antimicrobial effectiveness testing: not performed
1Thisformulation contains cyclic silicones (D5 od D6) in relevant concentrations (> 0.1%). Within the European Union and other European
countries there will be new regulations shortly in place. Only 0.1% of each compound will be allowed in consumer products.
Therefore this formulation is not anymore suitable for the European market.”

2. Emollients to
define sensory
profiles

Sensory map –
Introduction
▪ Knowing the sensory properties of the emollients is one important step towards creating
the desired skin feel of a formulation
▪ Determination via descriptive sensory evaluation
− Five application/use attributes: spreadability, oiliness, absorption, tackiness,
slipperiness
− Two afterfeel attributes: greasy feel, silicone feel
▪ Evaluation results in different clusters of emollients describing the skin feel

Sensory map
The sensory of the

pure emollients impacts
the skin feel of the final
formulation. With this
sensory map, the
selection of suitable
emollients for achieving
or maintaining the
desired skin feel is
easily made.

3. Natural-
based esters –
Made by
Evonik’s unique
enzymatic
esterification

Advantages of enzymatically produced emollient esters
Innovative products Process simplification
Eco-efficiency Product quality

Natural-based esters – Made by enzymatic esterification
TEGOSOFT® AC MB TEGOSOFT® CR MB TEGOSOFT® DC MB TEGOSOFT® MM MB TEGOSOFT® OER MB
▪ INCI: Isoamyl ▪ INCI: Cetyl ▪ INCI: Decyl Cocoate ▪ INCI: Myristyl ▪ INCI: Oleyl Erucate
Cocoate Ricinoleate ▪ Light emollient with Myristate ▪ Structure and
▪ Imparts light and non- ▪ Melting point: ~29 °C low polarity ▪ Melting point: ~42 °C properties similar to
oily skin feel, ▪ Silky, caring and non- ▪ Natural origin index ▪ Rich and caring skin Jojoba Oil
especially in all- waxy skin feel (ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0 feel; Imparts body to ▪ Natural origin index
natural emulsions O/W emulsions (ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0
▪ Natural origin index ▪ Halal certified
▪ Natural origin index (ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0 ▪ Natural origin index ▪ Caring and smooth
(ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0 ▪ CFDA: yes
▪ Halal certified (ISO 16128) Ino = 1.0 skin feel
▪ Excellent pigment ▪ Recommended usage
▪ CFDA: yes concentration: 1-10% ▪ Halal certified ▪ Halal certified
wetting properties
▪ Recommended usage ▪ CFDA: yes ▪ CFDA: yes
▪ Halal certified
concentration: 1-5% ▪ Recommended usage ▪ Recommended usage
▪ Recommended usage concentration: 1-5% concentration: 1-10%
concentration: 1-10%
All of the shown emollients are responsibly sourced, readily biodegradable, COSMOS approved, suitable for NaTrue and
vegan according to the definition of the European Vegetarian Union.

Process comparison of conventional esterification
vs. enzymatic production of emollient esters
Conventional esterification Enzymatic esterification –
prime example of green chemistry1
1 see green chemistry info
raw mat. raw mat.
Immobilized catalyst
volatile comp. reaction catalyst recycled in reaction
packed bed reactor
aqueous waste desodor. steam The enzymatic
production
Applied Temperature process prevents
bleaching bleach > 180°C waste, uses less
140°C energy and benign
100°C solvents and
aqueous waste drying 60°C auxiliaries
20°C
solid waste filtration filter aid
packing packing
Quality comparison of Myristyl Myristate
TEGOSOFT® Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp.

MM MB #1 #2 #3 #4
Active material (by GC) 97.4% 94.2% 92.1% 91.8% 95.5%
Other esters (by GC) 1.1% 4.4% 2.6% 3.1% 2.2%
Free alcohol (by GC) 1.5% 1.5% 5.3% 5.1% 2.3%
Color (Hazen @ 50 °C) 10 38 cloudy 62 16
Odor (by panel) 1.2 2.3 3.0 1.9 1.6
OH value 3.9 1.6 15 12 6.0
Acid value 0.3 0.4 0.7 0.3 0.2
Melting point 43 41 40 41 43
The analysis of several samples of Myristyl Myristate shows that the enzymatically produced TEGOSOFT® MM MB has
overall the best quality.

Quality comparison of TEGOSOFT® OER MB vs. Jojoba Oil
Gas chromatography
TEGOSOFT® OER MB is a
TEGOSOFT® OER MB single component product
and is one of the major
C40
C40-peak corresponds to > 90%
Oleyl Erucate. components of natural
Jojoba Oil. Constant
quality can be obtained.
C38
C36
C42
C34
C42
Composition of Jojoba Oil can vary from
C40
Jojoba Oil province and harvest time. Each peak

corresponds to wax esters with the same
carbon number (combinations of various
C44
alcohols and acids are possible).

C38
Jojoba Oil consists of a high number

C46
of different wax esters.

C36
C48
C50

TEGOSOFT® OER MB vs conventional Oleyl Erucate
Conventional Chemical
TEGOSOFT® OER MB
Oleyl Erucate
Oleyl Erucate (by GC) 85.4% 81.1%
Other Esters (by GC) 13.9% 14.2%
Free alcohol (by GC) 0.7% 4.7%
Odor (by trained panel)1 1.2 1.4
TEGOSOFT® OER MB has remarkably higher product quality compared to

conventional, chemically produced Oleyl Erucate. Due to the enzymatic process the
content of undesired free alcohol can be reduced to a level below 1%. The content of
Oleyl Erucate is increased to > 85%.
1Trained panel of 10 persons evaluate the odour: 1 = good, 2 = acceptable, 3 = rejected; average number is shown above.

Quality comparison of TEGOSOFT® OER MB vs. Jojoba Oil
Product color
Advantage #1:
Suitable even for color
75 Hazen 150 Hazen >1000 Hazen sensitive formulations
with 5% with 5% Jojoba Oil
TEGOSOFT® OER MB (cold pressed) Advantage #2: Quality
and supply not subject
to variations in
seasonal conditions.
Jojoba Oil
TEGOSOFT® OER MB cold pressed L* = 86.6, a* = -0.7, b* = -0.4 L* = 85.9, a* = -1.1, b* = 5.1
Color/Hazen (25 °C) Emulsion with TEGOSOFT® OER MB

appears brilliant white (no high b*- value).

TEGOSOFT® OER MB
Natural Wellness Body Lotion (BR 2/14-8)

1. Heat phase A and B separately to 70 - 75 °C.
TEGO® Care PSC 3 MB (Polyglyceryl-3
A 3.0 2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring.1)
Dicitrate/Stearate)
3. Homogenize.
TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.0 4. Cool with gentle stirring.
TEGOSOFT® OER MB (Oleyl Erucate) 3.0 5. Add phase C at 40 °C.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil* 5.0 7. Add phase Z and adjust pH of formulation to 7.
B Water 80.6 1)
Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B
must be added without stirring.
Glycerin 3.0
C Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco)* 0.7 Remarks
Z Preservative, Perfume* q.s. Viscosity: ~15 Pa∙s

(Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 4, 5 rpm)
Natural content cn (incl. water, ISO 16128): 86.1%
Natural origin content cno (incl. water, ISO 16128): 100.0%
* not considered for calculation
Formulation was tested on stability with 0.7% Benzyl Alcohol;
Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol (Euxyl K 900, Schülke & Mayr
GmbH).
Antimicrobial effectiveness testing: not performed

4. Emollients
for sun care
applications

UV filter solubility comparison of different emollients
The higher the UV

filter solubility, the
less emollient
needs to be used
resulting in less
impact on the
sensory of the
formulation.

Emollients for sun care
TEGOSOFT® XC MB TEGOSOFT® AC MB TEGOSOFT® DEC dermofeel® sensolv MB
For high SPF formulations, Ideal for natural-based, Universal emollient for
High SPF formulations, ideal for
sprayable or low viscous mineral sunscreens or BB organic and inorganic UV
natural cosmetics
sun care applications & CC formulations filters
▪ INCI: Phenoxyethyl ▪ INCI: Isoamyl Cocoate ▪ INCI: Diethylhexyl ▪ INCI: Isoamyl Laurate
Caprylate ▪ Shows good solubility for Carbonate ▪ Very good solubilization of
▪ Shows eXCellent organic UV filters ▪ Unique emollient crystalline UV filters
UV filter solubility ▪ Imparts light and non-oily especially suitable for ▪ Shows excellent wetting
▪ Provides slight SPF skin feel, especially in light and non-oily skin properties of hydrophobically
boosting effect all-natural emulsions and sun care products coated pigments
▪ Photostable emollient ▪ Excellent pigment ▪ Implies very light skin ▪ Imparts very light and non-
wetting properties feel sticky skin feel
▪ Light and non-oily skin
feel ▪ Recommended usage ▪ Recommended usage ▪ COSMOS certified
concentration: 1-10% concentration: max. 15%
▪ Recommended usage ▪ Natural origin index (ISO 16128):
concentration: 1-17% Ino1 = 1.00

Sensory profile –
Sun care lotion SPF 30 & SPF 50
SPF 30: 6% emollient

11% organic UV filters
19.7% total oil phase
SPF 50: 8% emollient
22% organic UV filters
31.7% total oil phase
Sensory panel testing shows that dermofeel®

sensolv MB in sun care lotions
▪ slightly reduces whitening
▪ improves slipperiness and reduces waxiness
▪ reduces stickiness
compared to C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

Feel the sun spray SPF 50
ST 18/18-15
Phase Ingredients w/w % dermofeel® sensolv MB provides
▪ low whitening
(Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate)
4.00 ▪ relatively low stickiness and
▪ a light skin feel
Processing
1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 85°C.
A Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S, BASF) 6.00 2. Add phase C to B.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 6.00 3. Add phase A to phase B/C with stirring.1)
4. Homogenize.
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00 5. Cool with gentle stirring to approx. 60 °C and add phase D.
Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.00 6. Homogenize for a short time.
® 7. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase E below 40 °C.
dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO 8. Adjust the pH value to 6.8 - 7.2. Stir well.
0.20
(Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil) 1)Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must
Water 48.45 be added without stirring.
B Glycerin 3.00
Remarks
EDTA 0.05
Viscosity: ~7 Pa∙s (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 4, 5 rpm).
C Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) 0.50 Microbiological safety: Challenge test passed
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 3.00 SPF: 54.3, UVA-Balance: 43%
D Tromethamine (Trisaminomethane) 1.32 (calculated values, BASF sunscreen simulator)
Water 10.68
E Verstatil® BOB (Benzyl Alcohol; Caprylyl Glycol; Benzoic Acid) 1.20
Perfume 0.10
5. Emollients
for color
cosmetics

Pigment wetting comparison of different emollients

Emollients for color cosmetics
dermofeel® sensolv MB TEGOSOFT® AC MB TEGOSOFT® CR MB REWOPAL® PIB 1000
For natural-based color For lip gloss and improved

For natural-based color For improved properties
cosmetics or BB & CC water- and wear resistance
cosmetics or BB & CC creams of lipsticks
creams in make-up
▪ INCI: Isoamyl Laurate ▪ INCI: Isoamyl Cocoate ▪ INCI: Cetyl Ricinoleate ▪ INCI: Polyisobutene
▪ Very good solubilization of ▪ Excellent pigment ▪ Melting point: ~28.8 °C ▪ Provides enhanced
crystalline UV filters wetting properties ▪ Provides a silky, caring water and wear
▪ Shows excellent wetting ▪ Shows good solubility for and non-waxy skin feel resistance
properties of hydrophobically UV filters ▪ For improved ▪ Positive influence on the
coated pigments ▪ Imparts light and non-oily appearance, smoothness stability of make-up and
▪ Imparts very light and non- skin feel, especially in and application & lipstick formulations
sticky skin feel all-natural emulsions distribution properties in ▪ Recommended usage
▪ COSMOS certified ▪ Recommended usage lipsticks concentration: 3 – 80%
▪ Natural origin index (ISO 16128): concentration: 1 – 10% ▪ Recommended usage
Ino1 = 1.00 concentration: 1 – 5%

Natural Mattifying Foundation
SZ 27/16-6
Phase Ingredients w/w % ▪ Foundation fully based on natural ingredients
ISOLAN® GPS
▪ TEGO® Feel C 10 as microplastic replacement
(Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate)
4.00 ▪ For your selfie ready appearance
TEGOSOFT® AC MB (Isoamyl Cocoate) 6.00
Processing
1. Homogenize phase A until homogeneous.
TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.00 2. Add phase B to phase A, heat to 80 °C and mix well.
CI 77891, Hydrogenated Lecithin (Unipure White LC 981 HLC, Sensient 3. Prepare phase C and adjust pH value to approx. 5.
5.00 4. Add phase C (room temperature) to phase A/B (80 °C) while
A Technologies Corp.)*
stirring (approx. 500 rpm).
CI 77492, Hydrogenated Lecithin (Unipure Yellow LC 182 HLC, Sensient 5. Homogenize.
0.60
Technologies Corp.)*
6. Cool down below 30 °C while stirring.
CI 77491, Hydrogenated Lecithin (Unipure Red LC 381 HLC, Sensient
0.35
Remarks
CI 77499, Hydrogenated Lecithin (Unipure Black LC 989 HLC, Sensient
0.10 Viscosity: ~35 Pa∙s (Brookfield RVDV-I, sp. 93, 10 rpm)
Natural content (incl. water, ISO 16128) cn: 71.7%
Natural origin content (incl. water, ISO 16128) cno: 99.8%
Cera Alba 0.50 * not considered for calculation
B
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.50 Antimicrobial effectiveness testing: Challenge test passed
Water 62.45
Magnesium Sulfate (Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate)* 2.00
C Glycerin 3.00
Verstatil® SL non GMO (Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Water) 1.50
Citric Acid (10% in water)* q.s.

Emollients in different applications
Product Name INCI Antipers- Color Face & Body Natural care Sun care
pirant/Deo cosmetics care
ABIL® 350 Dimethicone  
ABIL® Wax 9801/ABIL® Wax 9840 Cetyl Dimethicone   
dermofeel® sensolv MB Isoamyl Laurate     
TEGOSOFT® AC MB Isoamyl Cocoate     
TEGOSOFT® APM PPG-3 Myristyl Ether  
TEGOSOFT® CI Cetearyl Isononanoate  
TEGOSOFT® CO Cetyl Ethylhexanoate   
TEGOSOFT® CR MB Cetyl Ricinoleate   
TEGOSOFT® CT Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride   
TEGOSOFT® DC MB Decyl Cocoate    
TEGOSOFT® DEC Diethylhexyl Carbonate    
TEGOSOFT® E PPG-15 Stearyl Ether  
TEGOSOFT® M Isopropyl Myristate  
TEGOSOFT® MM MB Myristyl Myristate   
TEGOSOFT® OER MB Oleyl Erucate    
TEGOSOFT® OP Ethylhexyl Palmitate  
TEGOSOFT® OS Ethylhexyl Stearate   
TEGOSOFT® P Isopropyl Palmitate   
TEGOSOFT® PBE PPG-14 Butyl Ether  
TEGOSOFT® SH Stearyl Heptanoate   
TEGOSOFT® TN C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate   
TEGOSOFT® XC MB Phenoxyethyl Caprylate  
 Recommendation  Special recommendation

6. Natural
Sensory
Additive
110
July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training
TEGO® Feel C 10
Properties & product description
INCI Cellulose
Average particle size 30 µm
Recommended use level 1-20% (emulsions – make-up)
Appearance Odorless, white to off-white powder
▪ Natural cellulose without derivatization or chemical modification

▪ Using a process employing renewable energy
▪ Eco-friendly alternative to microplastics in leave-on applications

Sebum & Oil Absorption
in vitro study
Sebum resp. cosmetic oil is added to particles and maximum absorption is
visually assessed.
TEGO® Feel C 10
▪ Due to its porous fiber structure,

TEGO® Feel C 10 efficiently
absorbs sebum and cosmetic oils.
▪ 100 g of TEGO® Feel C 10 can
» see test method absorb 130 g of human sebum.
1 Commercial human model sebum according to Bey

Gloss reduction
in vivo study
A half side test was conducted on the face of 10 panelists applying each 300 µL W/O lotion with and without TEGO ® Feel C 10.
Gloss was determined by VISIA-CR photography before application and after 5 min. Gloss was evaluated by image analysis.
Panelist – after 5 min Panelist – after 5 min

Vehicle 2% TEGO® Feel C 10
29% gloss
reduction
TEGO® Feel C 10 reduces the gloss of a W/O emulsion.

Sensory Profiling
Maps for ISOLAN® GPS taken from Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.1
During application 5 minutes after application
low absorption low absorption
TEGO® Feel
C 10 efficiently
improves the
absorption of a
Natural W/O
Lotion.
light rich soft waxy
The relative
effect is very
big for W/O
systems based
on ISOLAN®
GPS.1
quick absorption high absorption

other formulations based on ISOLAN® GPS from Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.1
Natural Low Shine W/O Lotion
BR 14/17-20
▪ TEGO® Feel C 10 efficiently improves the absorption

Phase Ingredients w/w % ▪ Fully based on natural ingredients
ISOLAN® GPS ▪ Daily lotion for dry skin
3.50
(Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate)
Processing
1. Heat phase A to approx. 85 °C.
Cera Alba 0.60 2. Add phase B (room temperature) slowly while stirring.
3. Homogenize.
A TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 1.00
4. Cool with gentle stirring below 30°C.
TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 7.50 5. Add phase C and homogenize again.
Remarks
Viscosity: ~16 Pa∙s (Brookfield RV DV-I, sp. 5, 10 rpm)
TEGO® Feel C 10 (Cellulose) 1.00 Natural content (incl. water, ISO 16128) cn: 76.1%
Water 67.00 Natural origin content (incl. water, ISO 16128) cno: 100.0%
1 not considered for calculation
Glycerin 5.00
B Microbiological safety: Challenge test passed
Panthenol1 0.50
Zinc Sulfate (Zinc Sulfate Heptahydrate)1 1.50
C Phenethylalcohol nat. (Phenethyl Alcohol) 1.00

TEGO® Feel C 10 – Your benefits at a glance
Natural cellulose from Eco-friendly alternative Improves absorption & Provides a mattifying
sustainable European to microplastics in leave- reduces oiliness on skin effect
forestry on applications

Concepts

Concepts
https://intobeauty.evonik.com/
COLOR COSMETICS
SUN CARE

119
Evonik enzymatic process as prime example of green chemistry
▪ Green chemistry efficiently utilizes (preferably renewable) raw materials, eliminates waste and avoids the use of toxic
and/or hazardous reagents and solvents in the manufacture and application of chemical products1
▪ The 12 principles of green chemistry published in 1998 have become generally considered guiding principles 2
▪ In comparison of conventional esterification vs. enzymatic production of emollient esters, in particular the green chemistry
principles3
[1] Prevent waste,
[5] Benign Solvents & Auxiliaries and
[6] Design for Energy Efficiency
are considered
» back to process comparison
1 Sheldon, R. A. Atom utilisation, E factors and the catalytic solution. C. R. Acad. Sci., Ser. IIc: Chim. 2000, 3, 541−551
2 Anastas, P.; Warner, J. C. Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice; Oxford University Press: Oxford, U.K., 1998
3 https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/greenchemistry/principles/12-principles-of-green-chemistry.html

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21st July, 2020

▪ A mixture of 2 immiscible liquids + emulsifier

2 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Water-in-Oil Emulsion (W/O) Oil-in-Water Emulsion (O/W)

Approx. 80 % of emulsion preparations in the market are oil-in-water

3 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Specific dermatological ingredients;

Auxiliary Preservatives, antioxidants;

4 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Phase Ingredients w/w%

TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 0.10

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 2.00

5 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Phase Ingredients w/w %

6 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Water-in-Oil Emulsion Oil-in-Water Emulsion

Due to the skin

• great distance between oil droplets

7 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Bilayer structures Water-swellable polymers

Different skin feel

Threedimensional network of bilayer Threedimensional network of water swollen

8 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

High Viscous Oil Phase Oleogel Forming Waxes Polymeric, polyfunctional

9 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

▪ Room temperature (1 year)

Quick methods which provide reliable predictions of

10 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

11 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

21st July, 2020

O/W emulsifiers W/O emulsifiers

▪ TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB ▪ ISOLAN® 17 MB

13 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Natural & organic cosmetics

Why natural certification standards?

Souce: 1 Naturkosmetik Verlag, 2018; 2 Mintel, 2019.

14 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

COSMOS Natural NaTrue Natural Cosmetics ISO 16128

Souce: www.natrue.org, www.cosmos-standard.org, www.iso.org

15 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

▪ Eco-friendly skin care products are of ongoing

▪ At the same time formulation should match the

-> Skin feel of is one of the main influencing factors for

▪ Preference for specific sensory attributes in the

16 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

▪ Readily available, up-to-date web-

17 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

▪ Web application as communication and

18 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

MAKING SKIN-FEEL VISIBLE

19 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Skin care solutions:

20 July 2020 | Evonik emulsion emusifiers & emollients_distributor training

Technology Platforms Processes Emulsifier Families

Natural Fats & Oils